Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Not applicable Not applicable
Q: Hi, When I try to turn on any of the cabin lights, it turns on a light in the instrument panel. And the digital clock resets when I turn the car off. When I turn on the headlights at night, the digital clock turns off, and it sets off the "trunk open" light in the intrument panel, and also with the headlights turned on...
When I go over bumps or if the car vibrates strong enough, the defroster function will go on and off and I can tell this because the LED for the defroster lights and I can hear the "click" sound it makes when the window defroster is turned on.
When we bought the car, I suspect the previous owner took out their expensive cd player and put a cheaper one in for us. Maybe when they did that, they tripped a few wires that are setting a few false signals for various functions of the car??
Does this sound right?? Any ideas what this may be and whatever solution there is?
A: This is a very good place to start. Locate an acurate wiring diagram first. Ed
Q: My GSR gears grind when I shift into 3rd gear quickly at high rpms. This only happens at high rpms, and a relatively quick throw into third.
If however I wait about a second after engaging the clutch and then throw it into third, nothing grinds.... only grinds during speed shifting at high rpms. (clutch fully depressed.)
This malfunction occurs only while shifting into the third gear. No other gears are affected.
Thanks for your help.
A: The synchronizers in your transmission are only designed for normal driving.
I would check into seeing if someone makes a kit, and have it installed. Otherwise have it checked to see if the stock ones are still funtioning properly.
I drove a brand new 5 speed metro into the ground in two days becuase the synchronizers in first went.
Chassis / Suspension & Steering Upgrade Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I had a lug nut freeze on the stud. When I took it off, it snapped the stud.
When trying to replace the stud, I found that you have to take the spindle apart. I have the right front apart totally except the upper ball joint.
I have a chilton's manual and frankly, every thing that it has said is wrong. How do I get the hub out of the assembly so that I can replace the stud?
The axle is out of the spindle and it rotates freely. And there does not seem to be any problems with the bearings.
A: I had a 1990 integra with 2 striped studs and i tried to get them off but it takes a special tool. So i put the parts back togather and took the car to the local Midas shop and the charged me about $35.00 to do the job.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Other Not applicable Always
Q: The driver side door will not lock with the lever when the door is opened. It will lock with the lever when the door is closed. I just have the lock actuator replaced and the key cylinder lever repaired.
A: this is a classic honda quirk. this way you cannot lock your keys in the car. i can't beleive your dealer let you replace the parts.
Q: Hood was not closing securely. The problem seemed to be with the hood latch. I removed, cleaned, and re-installed the hood latch. The hood shut perfectly on the first try. However, when I reached inside the car to open the hood, I found that the hood release cable was slack, and the hood would not open.
How can I open my hood without using the hood release cable?
A: Try to reach the cable or mechanism and operate it manualy. If not you may be able to unbolt the latch assembly. Last resort would be a trip to the dealer.
Sounds like it needs to be replaced. Did you reconnect the cable.
Ignition System Won't Start Not applicable Not applicable
Q: Our Integra died on the road. The engine quit with no knocking, sputtering, or any odd noises. At first the timing belt was suspected, but the cam (when looking in the oil fill hole) still turns and the rotor still spins. The fuel pump still comes on with the ignition. However, there is no spark when removing a spark plug wire and cranking the engine. The cap diodes and rotor did have a lot of corrosion, but lightly sanding them did not produce a spark. There is current running to the distributor when the ignition is "on". A chiltons manual suggests replacing the ignitor. I live in Germany, so replacing part by part is not an option.
A: The same chilton's manual should tell you how to check the ignitor. My guess also. Ed
Q: i need to know how to get to the clutch in my acura and change it?
and what special tools i need?
A: If you need to ask about tools you probably should hire it out.the axles need to come out of the transmission,transmission needs to come out.Not a hard job but it does take some knowledge and tools.
All Part Groups Making Noise When driving Not applicable
Q: When I first start to drive the car, I hear a clicking sound on the front left side of the car.
Can you figure what that sound may be? Or do you need more information?
How can I fix the sound? Please help, thanks Abdu.
A: When the clicking sound is happening.... as you drive, slowly apply the brakes and listen to see if it stops...
If it does, it's the brake pad shifting or "clicking" in the caliper mounting bracket.
If no change is heard, possible cv joint problem.... Ed
Q: I've got a 1990 Acura Integra GS Sedan, 183,000 miles. I am forever having the engine light coming on after 5 minutes of driving. Also started having the car heat up quite a bit, and started running sluggish below 2500RPM.
I've had it for about 3 years, and not too many problems.
The diagnostic code for the light was "Fuel Delivery System". O2 sensor was replaced 3 times, and it would help the light stay off for longer, but eventually it would kill the sensor.
Over the last few years, I've replaced the timing belt (had broken while idle), wires / cap / rotor, tons of brakes and rotors,
I replaced the 2 temp sensors, and suddenly it showed it running extremely hot, almost constantly in the red while driving.
I replaced the thermostat, and that REALLY helped bring the temp down while driving. When idle, it still tends to climb.
I replaced the radiator a few weeks back, and the hoses (looked original). It cools down quicker, but still gets hotter when idling.
If I turn the heat on, the temp drops fairly quickly...
Also, when I replaced the thermostat, there was a ground wire on the housing, and I ended up loosening that up thinking it was for the bottom of the hose connector to get to the thermostat. It was rusted, and the car wouldn't start until it was cleaned off and tightened back down.
Since then, my gas mileage problems have went from 20-22 MPG to almost 26-27 MPG highway.
I'm still getting a sluggish response under 2500RPM, but it's got a little more power.
Replaced valve cover seal month ago as well, leaking has stopped.
Water pump? Gremlins beneath the hood? Coolant level looks great, no oil in the antifreeze, or burning anything visible from the back.
A: -Could- be a water pump, but it sounds more likely that you have an air pocket in your cooling system, if the temps drop @ idle. Go have your coolant flushed and changed by a mechanic, he'll know how to properly bleed a cooling system.
All Part Groups Malfunction Not applicable Not applicable
Q: Ok i'm confused.. I've got a problem with my Cooling fans.. Right from Ignition ON, my cooling fans turn on and stay on.. Hot or cold, they are always on... AND i was overheating.. I replaced my thermostat, still overheating.. realized my RAD was rotted out so i replaced that too.. overheating has stopped but my cooling fans are still always on..
The engine light doesn't come on at all so doesn't seem like the coolant temp sensor is gone.
I thought it might be the fan relay stuck closed but it's not.. I hear it click when i turn the key.
So i'm guessing that something is sending the wrong signal to the relay and turns the fans on..
Q: I blew the water pump the car is smoking from the tailpipe, in replacing the pump is it a really difficult task, do I need to replace the timming belt? Is there any way of tricking this in order not to screw up the timming belt and blow the head?
A: None that I know of. If the car has more than 60,000 and never has had a timing belt change, now is the time. Sometimes, white smoke from the tailpipe is an indication of a defective head gasket.
Heating / Cooling System Chugging Happens always Not applicable
Q: under the passenger side of the dashboard sounds like a washing machine is running. when the air is on it blow out air fast then slows down then speeds up back and forth. even if the switch for the air is turned of air still comes out and the noise under the dash is always making the the chugging noise .
A: The bearing is shot on your "hampster cage". Meaning that the fan under your dash that pushes the heat away from the heater core have gone bad.
Ignition System Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: My Integra has problems starting back up when warm, and just recently has started to just stall while driving. It will start again after a half hour or so. I think it must be part of the ignition system. The distributor was replaced and the o-ring leaks from the distributor into the electric connectors. Could this be part of the problem?
A: Could very well be, replace that o-ring and see how it does. I remember there was a big problem with late 80s broncos cutting out while driving and they found out is was a manufacturing defect. Plus if that distributor was a remanufactored one, it might not be good. Check your warranty on it.
Q: Error code 19-lock up control solenoid valve(A/T only) - with check engine light staying on. I cant pass CA Smog Check with light on and high O2,s. Any info on the lock up control solenoid valve would be appreciated.
A: i take it you have an automatic tranny, right? if so, then take it to a tranny shop and have them put in a new lockup solenoid. this thing pretty much locks up the insides of the torque converter, so you get better gas mileage, but dont drive around too long with it out, it will burn up your tranny
Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start When starting Always
Q: No power in the computer.
A: Check battery voltage and cranking voltage.If good check for a blown main fuse or any fuse blowed. Check electrical connections to the ECU and elsewhere. If all of the above check out remove the ECU and have Honda check it out.