Chassis / Suspension & Steering Other When braking Not applicable
Q: problem occured while on vac. driving at hwyway speed, on level surfaces,applying brakes no problem, when road is uneven,groves cut into pavement prior to resurfacing, when brakes are applied, start to shimmy, so bad that I have to release brakes, reapply, slowy. shimmy`s so violently, that its difficult to hold it in the road.car jacked up, check for any abnormal wear, none found. when I grab one of the wheels. turn to left or right, I feel some looseness and the sreering wheel rotates. nothing loose, broken ect. suggestion? thanks, joe
A: Take vehicle to a GOOD alingment shop,they will check out ball joints, etc....Something beyond wear specs, not unusual for this to show up on roads you describe....and still be OK on smooth roads....DB
Q: The "Check Engine" lite comes on when driving at speed greater then 50 m/h.
There are no bad sounds at all nor shifting problems. Computer test showed up (2) codes- "knock" and "shifting". Replacing the "knock" sensor didn't resolve the problem.
I am just lost myself resolving the problem. I appreciate any help in this case.
A: A code is set when the computer 'sees' something wrong with the system... Could be any part of the knock sensor system including wiring, grounds, computer interpetation, timing gone wrong causing a knock or ping, etc...... Ed
Q: It's a 3.8l engine. Very randomly it will die, sometimes at full speed such as driving on turnpike.
For the most part, it will start back up immediately, but there have been a few times when it would crank & crank and not restart.
The car sits and when just about ready to give up, it will start and run for several more days/ hundreds of miles, without stall problem again.
The engine runs fine, no bogging or stumble ever, just that quitting problem. The air filter fine, plugs not fouled, ignition module replaced, pow!, 150 bucks.
I suspect cranking sensor or cam sensor if equipped, but don't have clear references as to where these components are located on engine or how to test.
As I say, a very intermittent problem, but very scary on turnpike going 65mph with semi-trucks behind and beside you.
Sound like anything common to these buicks?
A: Is the fuel pump making an anoying buzzing sound in the background??...
If so, the next time the car quits and will not restart, have someone cranking the engine over with the key and you bang firmly on the bottom of the fuel tank a few times....
If starts right away, replace fuel pump assembly....Ed
Q: where can I find a diagram/location of the fuel filter in a '94 Buick Lesabre?
A: I changed one in a '95 Lesabre two weeks ago (hopefully it is in the same location as a '94)
The location was on the Pass. side directly in front of the rear tire along the inside of the frame (if you could call it that) rail. It is fairly large with a conventional screw-in line closest to the engine and a quick disconnect line on the other. You can replace it without having to jack the car up, but have your new filter ready to install as you will lose some gasoline when you disconnect the lines.
Q: How do I test if the ABS uint is good or bad?
A: When you first start your car... and for the first 2 or 3 seconds that the car is running, the ABS light will stay on....
This is the computer self-testing itself.... and if it is okay.... it will shut it off...... Ed
Ignition System Won't Start Happens sometimes Not applicable
Q: When we go to start the car sometimes it won't even turn over and the SECURITY light will stay on, if we remove the key and wait for the security light to go off usually it will start on the next try, sometimes the third try.
A: This is the system with the diode in the ignition key? Have the dealer supply a new key. Ed
Q: The speedometer is WAY off, like I'm really going approximately half the speed it is registering. I called the dealer and explained my problem and he matter of factly told me it was set for metric and it was simply a switch on the dash - WELL, if there is a switch I can't find it and that wouldn't make a lot of sense considering both metric and standard are on the speedometer already. AND maybe he was under the misconception that I had an electronic dash which I do not. SO, if anyone can help me I would appreciate it.
A: I think the vss or vehicle speed sensor is defective. Ed
Q: My car won't turn at all when I try to start it.
Could that be the starter or something else?
(It's not the battery.) Thanks.
A: A 12V test light check at the wire connection to the starter solonoid will tell you;
If power is going into the starter and it does not work, replace starter.......
These cars also have a number of fusable links near the starter.... pink coloured.... Ed
Ignition System Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: car runs beautiful, but will shut off for a split second and start running again or just stall out completly. but it will always restart without a problem....sometimes the speedometer would go crazy or just quit
A: I have my daughters car in the shop for the exact same thing it's a 90' LeSabre also. They have captured the speed reading from the ECM and speed sensor while it is chugging and tell me it registered 130 mph( they were only doing 35). They said the computer limits the speed to 125 and it automatically shuts off the engine. When this occurs the car will restart without a problem. The computer shows no fault codes. I'll let you know it this works. Good Luck!
Windows / Glass Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: Rear defrosters. Last year, the button in the front panel of the car went out, thought that maybe it was a fuse, looked in the fuse box and can't find it. Someone told us that maybe it's a fusable link. We don't have our manual on this.
The rear defrosters don't work at all. Hoping to find out how we can find out how to make it work again without having to take it to a mechanic or the dealer. Could you please help?
A: Power to the switch and then from the switch is how you divide the problem in 1/2 to start looking for the solution. Ed