Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start Happens sometimes Not applicable
Q: This problem is happening more frequently now I can go out to the car and it won't start. I can wait a few hours or so and it will start right up. The first time this happened I had it towed to the mechanic, the day it was towed in it wouldn't start for him either. The next day and the days following that it fired up each and every time he kept it from Mon-Fri, he could not duplicate the problem. He did the diagnostic test it showed nothing wrong with it. I called two Buick dealers, they told me if the car doesn't break down and stay broken down they can't tell me whats wrong because the problem is too intermittent. Before all this started that ETS Off light was coming on and staying on and the car would stall out on me, now its not doing that anymore, but I noticed something when I'm putting the car into reverse from park I noticed that the ETS Off light blinks. Please help me if you can, I don't know what to do.
Vicky/Cleveland,OH
A: When you crank the car and it does't start, listen very carefully when you release the key to hear a quiet buzz. Like a bee. Just for a second or two. If not, suspect the fuel pump. Ed
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always
Q: After I disconnected the battery--the A/C Delco radio went dead. I tried to reset according to the instuctions in the owner's manual but didn't get any codes on the display.
A: If the fuse is okay, you will need the codes to enter in the display. If you bought the car new, the dealer "owes" you the code. If you are not worried about theft, you can disable this feature.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Not applicable Always
Q: When I pull the dimmer switch to put my lights on bright the lights initially go to bright but when I let go of the switch the headlights go completely out. They work fine on dim. The switch also seems to pull harder than it use to.
FYI: I am living in Germany with my husband who is in the military so you might not be able to find my zip code.
A: Get that switch replaced . Since you are in Germany , one of the bases should have an automotive repair " club ". These are operated by the MWR on the base . There is a small rental fee for a place to work . There should be someone available to help you with the replacement of that switch . You might also try someone at the motor pool .
Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When braking Always
Q: At this point, when I put my foot on the brake too fast, it shifts down roughly.
I just took the car to the shop because the transmission didn't shift back down (it's a automatic).. it kept cutting off.
The dealer fixed the torque converter. It doesn't cut off any more, but the shifting is still not right.
Also, having had the torque converter fixed, the check engine light now comes on periodically. They said the system just needs to be set. Yes?
What can I do, or what kind of repair is this car in need of?
The car rides good. I want to keep it that way and take of this torque converter or something.
Help! Thanks
A: Disconnect the negative battery post for 1 minute or so and then try it......
This resets the computer..... if not helpful then return it and ask again.....
Q: My Skylark, for some reason keeps burning the quad drivers in the computer. I have replaced the whole computer, the 3rd and 4th gear switches and the 1st and second gear switches, I have also payed for a lot of wiring, but the check engine light still comes on after about 15-20 min. of running. I don't know what else to do, nothing shows up on a diagnostic test? The car still runs. There is no loss of speed it just runs rough and blows black smoke.
A: Check out what the quad drivers power and look through those circuits for the resistance problem. Including the wiring harness. Ed
Q: Hi, I had my 1968 Buick Skylark (350 V-8 with a 2 bbl. carb.) on the expressway, going about 65 mph, and it started to run rough and slow down.
After a few minutes I pulled over, shut off the car, and let it cool. It restarted, but was idling very rough.
It now accelerates incredibly slowly and will only reach about 40 mph.
Every once in a while i can hear a pop/knock that seems to be coming right out of the carb.
Is it backfiring? What can I do to fix this?
Will simply a new carb do the trick or is it something more serious?
Thanks for your help.
A: I think it may be the timing chain that jumped a tooth or 2..... (a problem in itself)
Check your marks in both distributor and crankshaft..... good luck.... Ed
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