Q: I bought the car and the battery ws dead and so I jumped it after about a few turns it started and drove fine, then I shut it off at home a few hours later I hadto jump it again and it started then I sut it off and the next morning when going to start the car It didn't do anything, doesn't click, no noise, but all the lights and the computer comes on. I replaced the battery and the same thing it won't start.
please let me know
A: try the alternator or connections on the starter and alternator.
Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Not applicable Not applicable
Q: NO A/C!!!
Message on digital display "Vey low refrigerant, A/C compressor off". I took the car to a "Shade tree" to pump some refrigerant in.
With the car running and the A/C on, we jumped the switch (making sure it had current) to start the compressor, nothing. This switch is located close to the firewall in-line with an a/c line.
The mech. said we must start the compressor so that it will suck the refrigerant in. I found/checked the A/C fuse under the hood voltage is passing thru, found (1) relay marked A/C and replaced it with another identical relay, no change. Found another larger fuse under the hood marked A/C, it also as current passing thru.
Found another switch looking like the one near the firewall but located near the compressor between the radiator and the block, current is getting there.
Removed the switch to the front end of the compressor, no current. I believe this switch should energize the compressor. I plan to trace it back and hope to find another switch to jump to energize the compressor. ***I'm told I'm in a catch "22" there needs to be some refrigerant in the compressor so it kicks-in to take more refrigerant, but if it's too low, the compressor won't kick-in. Is this accurate?
Also with the in-line switch close to the firewall jumped, we tried putting in some refrigerant.
The mech. thought putting some pressure on the system might cause the compressor to energize, no luck. It held at approximately 100psi until we took the hose & gauges off.
The digital display on the climate control continues to change to ECON after a period of time after hold in the AUTO button which turns the air on.
Please reply with any advice/help for continuing with the diagnosis.
A: A. Are there A/C codes displayed on the driver information panel? Clear the codes and turn the system on again. When codes are current, the compressor is not allowed to run to prevent internal damage.
Check the compressor control relay on the firewall under the relay dust cover. It is the one closest to the accumulator (silver canister), rap it on the side with the handle of a screwdriver.
No luck? Recover the freon and remove the orifice tube to inspect the filter screen for debris. 25% plugged means the tephlon piston rings in the compressor are failing. No compression means no cooling, this requires a new compressor to fix. I've seen orifice tubes so plugged they resembled worms in a silver metal powder.
Q: The power seat goes forward, backward and down, but not up.
I checked the voltages going to motors. What do you suggest?
A: One of the motors is not working.... that would be
the UP motor....if you unbolt the seat from the floor
and turn it upside down and hook it back up to power
connections...it will make more sense for you...Ed
Q: Every morning I hear a thumping sound from the front end during turning out of my drive. My mechanic says that my struts are good.
A: The first thing I would check is the wheel bearings and the ball joints. To do so first determine which side the noise is coming from, then jack up that side. After the car is jacked up try to wiggle the tire up and down (grab the top and bottom of the tire and jiggle it). If it moves at all then determine what is moving. if just the tire/brake rotor then it is your wheel bearings, if the whole thing (tire,wheel,rotor AND spindle) move then your ball joints are bad.
Q: My 92 Cadillac runs "pretty" good when it is cool outside but when it gets 87 or above and after driving about 45 minutes, it acts as if it is running out of gas.
You cannot accelerate and going up hills slows you down to just a crawl. The car jerks but has never stalled during this and it will idle ok. I can turn the ignition off and let the car sit for a few minutes and restart it and it will run fine for a few minutes before it acts up again.
I have changed the EGR valve and the MAP sensor as instructed by the dealer but still it did not fix it. I have a Chiltons Repair Manual and have been reading it and read that a faulty MAT (Manifold Air Temperature) sensor can cause fuel injector trouble. I have also read here that faulty temperature sensors may be the culprit.
It has a new catalytic convertor and muffler. Again, the car runs good when it's cool outside but when it reaches 87 or above, it starts this. Any suggestions or remedies? Help Please
A: Check the routing of your fuel line, it may be too close to a heat source (manifold) which could cause fuel to boil in the line.
When outside temp is less than 87, air temp. in engine compartment does not go high enough to trigger your problem.
Try wrapping some aluminum foil on line "shiny side out" to reflect heat from the line.
Also be sure you recently changed your fuel filter...
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always
Q: took my car to firestone they did a oil change curtesy checks under the hood and when i leave my digital readings as far as my gas reading a/c will not work radio will not plan. have no idea what the problem is. someone said it could be the relay switch. but not sure which relay switch it is.
A: try removing the neg.batt. cable for apx.30sec.
and reinstalling the cable to batt.
may be whats known as logic lock.
removing power from car will reset a logic lock
make shure key is off and all doors closed.
Q: I have a 1990 Cadillac Sedan DeVille with a 4.5 liter V8. When the engine is cold, for the first few minuets running, it runs fine.
As soon as the motor warms up to operating temperature it runs poorly and stalls. The check engine light comes on also.
When the cars cools down it starts and runs fine until it warms up again. Then its the same situation over again.
I brought the car to a local garage to pull any codes that might come up and I got a MAP code. I replaced the MAP sensor as well as the ECM in the distributor, the fuel pump and the fuel filter.
It was suggested to me to replace the O2 sensor as well. I am reluctant to replace any more parts until I have a more solid idea on what's wrong.
Trial and error is fine but gets expensive. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
A: Sometimes you will get a trouble code for a component while actually it is a related component that is causing the code. The O2 sensor and/or Throttle Position Sensor are related to the MAP sensor and can all have similar effects. When one component fails,it will effect most all related components and sometimes set off their code without them being the acual problem.Have all related systems checked.
Fuel System Chugging When accelerating Not applicable
Q: What do the codes e28 and e52 stand for?
A: I need more info on this... Send it along and we can go further...
How and where are you retriving these codes from?... Is this a display on the heater control center?..
Have you tried accessing the diagnostic connecter at the lower right section under your dash.... by your right knee? Let me know ...Ed
Heating / Cooling System Other Happens always Always
Q: i have a 1989 cadillac sedan deville. the only problem that i'm having is that my fuel data center and electronic climate control center are not showing their digital display at all....
all the fuses are ok..........does anyone know why my digital display is not showing?
A: The computer responsible for the display is probibly toasted.
Get a junkyard comp and try switching it. Good luck.
Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens always Always
Q: Hi, Since yesterday I can't get any air through the vents. All cold air just comes out of the defrost vent by the windsgiels and on the bottom by the carpet vent. Freon is full.
Has new Compressor. New Blower module. Could it be the switch - the one that says "auto" "colder" "warmer" etc...?
Thanks for your help.
A: It sounds more like your vent controls are not working. There is a door inside the air/heater plenum that changes position to redirect the air from the defrost vents to the dash vents. The motor that moves the door may be bad or the vacuum hose to it may be disconnected.
Q: firing order of spark plugs and i also need to know the numbers to the spark plug wires from smallest to the biggest. please provide a diagram if possible. thank you
A: MOST GM V8 USE 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2 AS THE FIRING ORDER. THIS IS TRUE WITH 4100HT OR SOME CALL IT A 4.1, 4.5, @4.9 AS WELL AS MOST OTHER GM V8 ENGINES. #8 PLUG WIRE IS SHORTEST 5@7 ARE NEXT 3,6,@4 ARE ABOUT THE SAME LEAVING 1@2 AS THE LONGEST. CYLINDER # ARE USUALLY STAMPED ON INTAKE MANIFOLD RUNNERS.
Q: When turning I am hearing a loud crunching noice. How do I remove the front brakes?
A: If its more of a "clacking" sound, its probably your cv joints. If you don't have a problem stopping or noise while driving straight, then its probably not your brakes, unless something is physically loose or being an obstruction. Check the rubber boots on your cv axles. They are probably torn, which means the grease is gone and dirt has replaced it and the joints are shot.