Drive Train / Driveline Vibration When turning Always
Q: Just bought an All Wheel Drive Cargo AstroVan, 74,000 miles on it. I notice that after I make sharp turns (as in a parking lot) and especially when I back up and turn, drive-train feels like it is binding - sometimes lurches and thumps noticeably - especially upon change in direction. Seems to be Ok once I am going straght again. No noise on the hiway.
I have noticed similar things in other AWD vehicles, but not this pronounced. is this normal for Astro van AWD?
A: yes, thats pretty normal fo a 4 wheel drive car/van to act like that so no worries
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: Year - 98
Make - Chevrolet
Model - Astro Van
Engine - 4.3
Mileage - 70000
My van has needed three batteries in three years. Today the battery warning light came on and the voltage gauge barely stayed above the level 9 on the voltage gauge.
The warning light has never come on before, however, in past the car would no longer start.
Rather than just frequently replacing the battery as the dealership recommends, what other things could be wrong?
Or would a stronger battery be the answer?
Or is this just a common problem?
A: Have the battery tested by a local parts shop, if the battery comes out good the problem could be the alternator, try replacing the alternator for about $150 if you do it yourself. This should fix the problem.
Drive Train / Driveline Chugging When turning Always
Q: CLUNKING ALMOST A GRINDING SOUND STARTED WHEN TURNING NOW WHEN ACCELERATIG HARD FORWARD OR REVERSE
A: If Your vehicle is front wheel drive it sounds like you have a bad cv joint. I would recomend you have it looked at soon to avoid being stranded with a broken shaft. If you decide to do this job yourself I would strongly recommend purchaseing a repair manual for you vehicle for it is a fairly deep project.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start Happens sometimes Not applicable
Q: Would not start. would not take a jump. Had it towed, and shop says the battery was way, way down. Put a new battery. Three weeks later the same thing is happening. Where do i look next? Regulator? Solenoid? Please help!!!
A: You need to have the charging system checked. And check for a drain on the battery. IE- A glove box light that stays on.
Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: After driving at freeway speed, 60-70 mph, the transmission shifts very hard, feeling almost like getting rear-ended when the trans shifts from 1st to 2nd, and shifting hard through the other gears. This is normally accompanied by a "Service Engine Soon" light on the dash. After the car is shut down for a few minutes, the problem vanishes. The light eventually goes off if the problem doesn't recurr, such as when I don't drive the freeway for a few days.
Also, to comment on another question I read on your site, the wiper motor problem that someone else described is caused by a faulty wiper motor control board that Chevrolet replaces constantly, but refuses to recall. It's about $52, and even though the dealers know it's a problem, I think they're waiting for a death before they react.
A: Sounds like you're setting a DTC P1870 caused by a worn bore in the trans. valve body. This causes the computer to use a default shift pattern (max. line pressure, no TCC lock-up) until it passes the self diagnostic tests it uses.
An aftermarket company called Sonnax has a repair kit that any competent trans. shop can install.
GM dealers can usually only replace the complete valve body assembly as a repair, per GM guidelines.
There is a technical service bulletin addressing the problem.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving Not applicable
Q: While on the road this past weekend, the headlights and dome light were dimming and coming back for some time.
We noticed when the lights would dim, the voltage guage would dip from 13 to about 10.
It would always come back up to normal, but it scared the hell out of me, because we have babies and were about 300 miles from home.
Would this be the voltage regulator?
A: Yes, sounds like either the regulator or alternator.
Q: Recently I took my van in for repaires on the breaks, oil change and rotation / blancing the tires.
I was called and told my rear ends needed repaires. The bearings on the rear end needs to be repaired. I agreeded to have it repaired.
When I picked up my car I heard an rowing noise in the rear end when accelerating.
I have been told it's the ring and pinion problem. My car is an 1995 chevrolet astro van.
What should I do?
A: If the shop said they repaired the rear end and the noise was not there before they probably set it up wrong.. setting up rear ends is a very precise operation.. get a lawyer.. or at least tell them that you are going to.. small claims court is generally in favor of the consumer.. The judge has probably had car repair problems in the past and usually has felt the pain at one time or another..
Before going all out on a lawyer, Try giving the repair shop a chance to do things right. Talk to the owner or manager & explain the problems you are having. If he or she gives ya any crap then let em know you'll have a lawer take care of it.From my technical expertise I would say they screwed up putting it all back together.Just give em a chance to correct the problem.
Q: it chuggs sometimes almost always at a high sustained speed. is the fuel filter easyto reach or in the tank
A: According to AutoZone.com's "Component Location" feature (very handy, give it a try): "UNDER VEHICLE, DRIVER SIDE, BELOW SEATING AREA, FRONT OF FUEL TANK, MOUNTED ON CHASSIS IN FUEL LINE." It's the same whether your van is 2 or 4WD. If you decide to change it out yourself be sure you have a large container available to catch the gas that'll immediately spurt out when you remove the in-line filter and something to plug the line with while you get the new filter handy. Also be sure your face isn't right below it or you'll get doused. But as I'm sure you know, there could be any number of reasons why your van is chugging like that. Usually when there's a clogged fuel filter it'll chug all the time. But, hey, give it a shot. It couldn't hurt.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always
Q: My windshield wipers don't always work.
It doesn't matter if it's raining, or if I've been driving for an hour, or if I just turned on the car, the wipers work only when they want to!
I'll turn the switch on and they won't work. A few minutes later I'll try it again and they do.
I have made the mistake before of turning off the car while the wipers were still in motion.
They stay in the location position where power was cut. After turning on the car, they remain in this position but then out of the blue will begin working.
I have checked the fuse and it is okay. The owner's manual refers to a breaker switch that activates when the motor over heats.
However, I am not sure where it is located or if it could even be the problem. If I hit the intermittent switch, I can hear a sound like the wiper motor is stuck.
If I try to help the wipers by lifting them by hand nothing happens. I have checked the wiper nuts and both are tight.
Thanks for your help.
A: If you help by pushing the wiper arms in the direction they should be working in and they start going...the problem is in the motor itself.....Ed
Q: My brake pedal went to the metal- fluid on pavement the next day. I am told it is the brake system module- what is it? What should I expect to pay?
A: Brake system module is a device that regulates and distributes the brake fluid to all brake cylinders . It is generally located on a wheel well , inside the engine compartment , or near the firewall . Trace the tubes leaving the master cylinder and you will come to this module . Sounds like the mech wants some extra dough from someone that he is hoping does not know any better . I would look for a broken tube joint or a broken line in one of the lines going to a brake cylinder . One line will affect the fluid in all other lines . The Master Cylinder could also be bad . This is located on the firewall . If it goes bad , you can also have fluid on the ground . The lines and the master cylinder are both owner replaceable , if you have the time , some mechanical aptitude , and PATIENCE - especially for the master cylinder .
Q: Won't start when it is cold. if you shoot a little starting fluid in it it will fire right up.
Once you have it running it is good for the rest of the day.
If it sits for a long period of time again it won't start.
A: Your fuel injected engine is equipped with a
coolant temp sensor. It acts as a choke to richen fuel mixture when cold.
If it doesn't work correctly, hard starting will occur.
Once engine reaches operating temp, the problem is usually non-existent.
Q: '93 Astro van, 4.3l, 6 cyl. While driving, speedometer quit working and transmission would not shift to high gears. Can manually shift to second. Replaced VSS and ignition switch. No change in problem. (A few weeks earlier, was blowing fuse to fuel pump.
Replaced fuel pump and relay. Still blew fuses and put in a breaker. Related?) Checked voltage from new VSS today according to instructions from a mechanic, not showing any voltage. Bad new VSS?? Been a three week search and hunt- Help!
A: Just curious,did anyone check for a bad ground?I've seen 'em raise heck before.If voltage has no ground to go to,it can try to ground through other components("floating ground")and wreak havoc.Worth a look.
Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When driving Always
Q: When I go from 15-30 mph, the transmission makes a loud noise. Once past 30MPH the noise goes away.
My mechanic said that my transmission needs to be overhauled. But a friend of mine said that it only needs a bolt tightened.
What is your opinion?
A: Please describe the noise in regular sound type examples and also if it is a manual or automatic transmission...... Ed
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always
Q: My child inserted a dime in the cigarette lighter and caused electrical problems in my van. The headlight fuse burned and speedometer stopped working.
I changed the head light fuse, but I can't find the speedometer fuse. Will you please tell me where can I find it and how can I change it?
A: Oh oh..... This sounds a lot like a new dash unit....... Very costly...... Ed
Q: The van idles and runs smooth but after a feww miles will start to hesitate and bog down. It will eventually die and wont start. An hour later it will start, and do the same thing. I checked the fuel filter and it was clean.
A: If the fuel filter has been replaced, then have the fuel pressure checked. If your fuel pump is in your gas tank, it is possible that the screen over your fuel pump needs replacing,the pump itself, or both. While the fuel tank is off and open it should also be cleaned.
Q: Why would the engine stall and cutoff when I stop or am trying to park?
I have to continuously give it gas to keep it from stalling. Thanks.
A: The idle air control motor is probably lazy due to carbon build-up....
If you remove it from the intake manifold and clean the channel with carb cleaner......
Reinstall and then disconnect the battery for about a minute to clear codes and reset.....
Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start When starting Always
Q: Is there a kit to switch 2.3 liter from fuel injection to carbuetor?
A: Probably , but why ? Your vehicle will not run any better , not to mention the need to change the programming in the computer .
Fuel injection is the best way to go . It does give better performance and is much easier to maintain . Ever rebuilt a carburetor ? Stick with the fuel injection . Keep your fuel filter changed at proper intervals , and use a good grade of gasoline . There may be other problems that are being over looked that need to be taken care of .
Q: I need to know where the # 1 position is on the distributer cap as I have a new cap and know the
sequence (165432)but do not know where #1 is.
please help.e-mail; email@example.com
A: Zero the timing mark on the harmonic balancer. Remove distributor cap. The rotor will point to the # 1 position. Install cap and wires.
If it still won't start... pull the # 4 wire off from the distributor cap. This is where the # 1 position is. (before we were 180 degrees off, trying to start on the wrong stroke)
Q: the sliding door middle track rollers' are gone. i need to replace them... where do i get parts? how hard is it to replace the bracket and bearings
A: I had to replace mine as well and the door handle. It took me a set of sockets with a 3 in extender for the ratchet and about 15 minutes. You will need someone to support the door while you unbolt it. Just look at the rollers and you will see the bolts to remove. It was easier to remove the forward rollers first. I picked up rollers at the salvage yard for $10 for the full set.