Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens sometimes Not applicable
Q: 2002 chev. trail blazer, your list didn't go to 02. My insturment panel has gone dead twice in the six weeks i've had it. The first time they put on computer showed nothing, but they replaced iginition switch. I drove to gas station, working fine, then cut car off and cranked to leave no instrument panel lights again. dealership now has again, they say they have no idea what is going on. I've got 3,000 miles on this car and it is staying in the shop more than at home. got any ideas?
A: Buy a Ford Super Duty! hehe
it could be something simple, like a loose wire in the electrical connector behind it, but if thats the case, then the problem would have occured while they were building it. but i do take it that all the guages work like speedo, tach, oil, batt? if they work, they just need to try to trace the electrical from the dash, to the headlight switch, to the battery. i think thats all it really could be. try to think of the things that would activate the dash light or interfere with it in any way. (ex.headlight switch)
Q: I have a 96 Chevy Blazer and strange as this sounds, whenever I accelerate from a stop, I hear a bubbling noise coming from just in front of the console in the area beneath the CD player/radio. I do not hear the bubbling after initial acceleration. Even when in Park and I depress the accelerator, the bubbling noise happens again. Is there actually liquid bubbling somewhere? Can this in anyway be normal?
A: What you are hearing is coolant flowing through your heater core. They gurgle when coolant level is low. check coolant level in the OVER-FLOW BOTTLE, not the radiator. Cooling system removes coolant and returns it as needed. If this bottle is empty, an air pocket enters the system and usually gets trapped in the heater core. Hope this helps
Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens sometimes When warm
Q: temperature rises to near red zone before returning to normal
A: I'm assuming you have a 4.3L engine but it doesn't really matter.
Sounds like your cooling system is restricted. Old anti-freeze coagulates if left in too long, or sees severe conditions. Of course there is also rust, deteriorating rubber hose linings and the use of "hard" water.
I've had very good results using Prestone's Flush & Fill Kit, their can of Radiator Flush and a gallon of antifreeze..... any brand (don't buy the new Dextrol, high cool blends). All you do is cut the heater hose that goes to the intake of the water pump at a fairly level segment along the run. Splice in the supplied coupler, drain the radiator , fill it half way, dump the Flush chemical in, fill it the rest of the way, run the engine for ~10 minutes. Let it cool down, drain the radiator, pull the lower Radiator hose and hook your garden hose up to the coupler you installed, turn the water on and run the engine until the water leaving the hose and radiator runs clear. Pop everthing back on and add a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water to the radiator (hint: use an old anti-freeze gallon container, rinse it well, pour half of your new gallon of antifreeze into the old one, top both off w/ distilled water...... now you know the volume of fluid you add will be in the correct ratio, right then and when you need to add at a later date).
Good luck.......
Q: The side mirrors are unglued or broken. I want to know how to fix them. Thanks.
A: I assume you are talking about the mirror portion... not the part that attaches to the body....
If they are power mirrors..... new or used are needed because of how the attach into the housings....
If manual type.... almost any glass shop can cut new ones and replace them for you...
Q: Strong gas smell, 95 miles to 1 full tank of gas, new spark plugs turn black quick, but only 3 plugs on left side. When wire is pulled off plug on right side engine stalls briefly (normal), when left side wire is pulled off plug engine has no reaction, replaced oxygen sensor, mapping sensor, distributor cap, rotor, wires, plugs, had compression checked (it's fine). Replaced EGR valve (expensive)no change. Service engine light comes on sometimes. HELP!!!
A: Have fuel pressure regulator checked. Also may have some bad injectors.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always
Q: The keyless door entry doesn't work remotely. It will work using buttons on door. Had the remote reprogrammed, still doesn't work. Where is body control module located, and is there any way to test it? Thanks
A: ok your keyless entry is not controled by the body control module(bcm) it is in the trw keyless entry module mounted on the under dash panel on the drivers side. the only way to test it is to get a computer safe test light do not use a regular test light cause this might damage it you can get on at any aut parts store and probe the wires while you press the buttons on your keyless also check the battery in the keyless I know it sounds dumb but I am an installer for 15 years and find that this is the only prob most of the time.
Windows / Glass Malfunction Happens sometimes Not applicable
Q: My power window on the driver side stops working when going up or down. It started to do it on occasion, but not all the time. It will go up or down, stop, then in a couple of minutes I try it again and it goes up or down some more, and so on. I can hear the motoring clicking when I try the switch. I've checked the connections and greased the track. Please tell me it isn't the motor, but if it is what would it entail for me to replace it.
A: It does sound like a motor problem. An instuction manual is always a good thing to have if you are going to work on your own car. Ed
Chassis / Suspension & Steering Other When driving Always
Q: STEERING HAS LOTS OF PLAY. REPLACED FRONT BEARINGS, BALL JOINT, IDLER ARMS AND WHEEL ALIGNMENT. 1993 BLAZER LT 4X4 V6 VORTEC 100K MILES. WHAT COULD MY PROBLEM BE? PETE
Q: Hi, my name is John I am from Williamston, MI and am 20 years of age. I have a 1992 Chevy Blazer 4x4 4-door with a 4.3 liter V-6. The Blazer has 170,000 miles on it, and is all original parts except for the basic stuff. Now I was wondering I am looking too retire the vechical and get a car but I do not have to get rid of the Blazer. So what I would like to do is put it in my garage and put a new engine and transmission in it. I dont see to many redone older Blazers like mine. Besides I would really like to show up some of these spoiled rich kids. Whos mom and dad just bought them a new camero, bmw, mustang, or sport truck. so I think this would be an interesting project for my first car redo. So I was wondering:
1). Where can a get a brand new 4.3 V-6 for it?
2). If one is made; where can a get a super charger or a turbo charger for it? And which do you think would give me my most bang for the buck?
3). Also what type of new transmission would work best for the modified engine?
4). Where could i get some custom name plates or stickers for the Blazer .. .ie: Blazer SS or 4.3 Liter Supercharged?
I really appreciate the help and any ideas for good modifications you would have to the engine that could help proformance. Thanks again!
Your loyal customer
John L.
Williamston, MI
A: Any GM dealer through All-Parts or otherwise should be able to get you a new engine.
As for tubocharging or supercharging why don't you swap in a V-8. It will take some doing and it isn't going to be a direct bolt in but it can be done. get hold of transdapt for your application.
The transmission is another story. Your trans will bolt onto a v-8 but with 170,000 miles on it I wouldn't recommend using it without a rebuild.
Why don't you save your money by trying to make your blazer something it's not. Who the hell cares if mommy or daddy bought those spoiled brats some super cars. Do they even know where the dipstick is or does their butler check their oil? Use your blazer for daily driving and build something else that will have the potential to kick ass.
Preferably a "sleeper", a acar that looks stock(read-slow) but goes like hell. Pick up a former police car and really freak them out.
Don't worry about what every body else thinks, just do your own thing and be happy with yourself. GOOD LUCK.
Q: It is not getting hot. It is just blowing warm air.
A:
you can change the thermostate in your car to a higher temp. I know somebody last winter who had the same problem in thier s-10 so they put a hotter thermostate in and now the heat is warmer.
That is okay if you wish. Although a professional flush may be more appropriate. Costly though. I assume the heat has went from hot to warm?
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: My Speedometer does not work. I am getting a code 24, but I changed the Vehicle Speede Sensor already and it still doesn't work at all. Some times I get a little movement from the speedometer needle but not right. I have a 1990 Chevy Blazer (Full Size).
Electrical / Lighting Systems Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: re: dash lighting... I know just to replace a heater core the entire dash needs to be removed.
I'm hoping it is not the same routine to change the dash light bulbs?
Are there any simpler shortcuts... thanks powerp1s
A: Yes, the instrument cluster can be removed rather easily there should be eight (8)cap screws some with torx and 9/32" some just 9/32" being semi-careful when pulling out the instrument cluster notice the position of the electrical connection making sure you mate it up carefully when reinstalling.
Q: The truck seems sluggish; it does not accelerate smoothly.
It's running rich, and blows black smoke out exhaust under load. What should I do?
A: It sounds like the fuel pressure regulator may be out of range......
If this is a change over year - still equipped with a carb - look for the choke stuck on... Ed
Q: I have recently aquired a 1987 Chev Blazer 2.8L.
Or at least if the engine were not shot it would be 2.8L. I am putting a rebuilt engine in it and I need to know what the largest (most HP) engine I can put in it. With all the electrical, and transmission mounts matching up still, and without re-designing my Blazer.
I was told that engine block size will have to be the same for this to work smoothly.
Is this true?
A: Steve, there are several options available. Some folks will opt for a small block V8 mod others will rebuild the 2.8 (YUCK) others will install the 3.4 which will replace and up the HP and most important the addition of torque. Wouldn't that be a nice feel after the 2.8? Check chevy online stores for suppliers of crate motors like paceparts.com for the 3.4 or small block options. There are many suppliers. You will have to decide how much to spend and if the truck is worthy of the results. Good Luck.
Drive Train / Driveline Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: TRYING TO FIND WHAT AXLE RATIO I HAVE IN 1987 CHEVY K1500 BLAZER 4WD i HAVE THE OPTION LIST WHICH IS GLUED IN THE GLOVE BOX.
CANT FIND ANY TAGS ON THE AXLES. COULD YOU HELP ME?
A: This is a backyard way to get a close guess without taking apart you rear cover,, jack the back of truck up take the tires off,( the tires will change reading.) watch the drive shaft, by hand turn the hub count how many times the hub axle turns to one reovoution of the drive shaft. This will give you a close est. of ratio if the axle turns little over 4 to 1 turn of drive shaft then you would have 4.10 and so one.
Drive Train / Driveline Vibration When accelerating Always
Q: i GET A VIBRATION FROM THE REAR AXLE OR DRIVE LINE STEPPING ON THE GAS PEDDLE, BUT NO VIBRATION WHEN I LET THE TRUCK COAST.
A: Make sure that your differential fluid is full, and have a look at the U joints.
Make sure that you are not missing a balancing weight off the drive shaft.
I would also inspect the rear bearings.
All Part Groups Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: Black smoke out of tail pipe and chugging.
A: Check for codes. Also, look for a bad fuel pressure regulator. The vehicle is running very rich. This will kill a catalytic converter, so fix it soon.
Q: My oil gauge just started going over to about 80, normally the needle sits in the middle of the gauge when I am driving. I change oil regular.
What could be the problem, the engine was overhauled to long ago, six to eight months ago. I am concerned about that gauge, I am driving to Houston, Texas in several months.
Please let me hear from you soon,
Marine
A: Check the wire on the oil pressure sending unit.
If it has come loose or disconnected the gauge will read to the right all of the time.
Q: I have a 6.2 liter diesel in my blazer, the problem is the hydroboost is leaking powersteering fluid. I was told that it would cost me $250.00 to fix the one little seal that has broken. I need a rebuild kit which would save a lot of money.
A: Click a blue buyers button on http://www.all-parts.com ....Ed
All Part Groups Won't Start Not applicable When cold
Q: 350 electronic carb.(junk) when cold the engine has to be cranked for 15-20 sec. and the gas pedal pumped 10-15 times to get it to start. No broblem re-starting when eng. is warmed up. No codes stored in the computer. What do you think? Ron.
A: You might want to change the temp sending unit for computer.
Q: I was shifting from drive to reverse to get
unstuck from the snow. The transmission then
made a loud snap and now the truck will not
move. Would someone please give me some advice?
A: Does the rear of the transmission turn while in
drive or reverse???....if not, the problem is
internal to the transmission...if yes, then the
problem is in your differential unit....
The brake light comes on one day. I check the fluid level and find the rear resevoir is empty.
I fill it up and take it in for inspection. They don't tell me squat, so I take it home and find that a rear wheel cylinder is leaking so I get two rebuild kits and do both wheel cylinders.
I find that I need to replace all of the bleeder valves (front and back) and I do so.
I bleed about a quart and a half of brake fluid through the system thinking this must be enough to completely flush the system and I still have a very soft pedal and my brake light still comes on.
I can pump up the brake and stop rather well, but when I apply slight steady pressure, the brake goes to the floor.
Is this due to air still being in the line? Is there any way to tell if it is in the front or rear brake lines?
Thanks for your help.
A: Sounds an awful lot like the master cylinder is "bypassing" fluid internally...
The cup or seal is not pushing the fluid properly, and unless you pump up the brakes or push down very quickly, the seals just move through the fluid.....
This is assuming that the rear brakes are adjusted correctly .......Ed
Chassis / Suspension & Steering Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I have a 1974 blazer it has 8 lugs rears under it.
The front is about 4 to 6 inches higher then the back. I took 4 little leafs out of the front and it want down only a inch.
If there is no spring under it, just the sway bar then it is still higher then the back.
And the back has 4 in lift block under it.
What next?
This way to the live technicians