Q: truck does not start at all, no cranking no sound at all, battery is good, a few weeks ago
a/c stop working someone told me to change
the relay, change relay, a/c was working good,
then i turn off truck, after that truck cannot
start at all
check battery cables for corrosion inside the insulation. or possible bad connection at the starter or ground.
Q: I had a new electronic choke put on my pickup, it ran really well for two days.
The truck was fully warmed up as I had just returned from a 60 mile trip, however when I tried to stop at a stop sign the engine acclerated from 20 to 35 miles per hour, making the truck very difficult to stop.
I was able to get it home, put it in park and the engine sounded as though I had the gas pedal to the floor, which I did not. What happenned?
A: The choke linkage was in the "cold" position. And the "high idle cam" was at the top for maximum rpm. Ed
Q: I have a 350 stock engine,What is the best match
of Carb. intake and cam will work best with
other stock parts?
A: I've always been a EDELBROCK man myself, but the answer to your question can only come from you. What kind of torque are you looking for. Do you want to race or do you want to tow stuff? Do you want performance or do you want fuel economy. Visit Crane Cams website and ask their techs a little bit. They are the ones that can help you.
Q: truck is not maintained for 4 years. I got it. It ran fine. Then when cold, it won't start. Seems to flood based on smell of gas. Checked vacuum hoses, seem ok, no missing or broken lines. Checked choke, holds vacuum when you suck on hose. The lever comiing out of choke doesn't move the choke flap much, if at all. I adjusted the screw on it to max it and still barely moves flap. I am not sure where to go from here. I have already replaced cap and rotor, they were carboned inside anyway, but like i said, ran great before cold weather. thanks for the help
A: Can you bend the linkage so that the choke opens slightly when vacuum is applied? Ed
Q: I JUST COMPLETED AN UPGRADE TO A 700R-4 FROM A 350 TRANSMISSION. THE TRANS WAS REMOVE FROM A 1989 CHEVY 1/2 TON. THE PROBLEM IS THAT MY TRUCK WILL NOT MOVE. NO MATTER WHICH GEAR I SELECT IT JUST SITS THERE. THE TRANS AND TORQUE CONVERTER ARE NEW SO I ADDED ABOUT 10 QUARTS OF FLUID. IT STILL WON'T MOVE. I SUSPECT THE TORQUE CONVERTOR TO BE DEFECTIVE OR THE WRONG P/N FOR THE TRANNY. WHAT DO YOU THINK?
A: with motor running and transmission in park remove transmission dipstick and check fluid level check length of transmission linkage
Q: It gets about 11 miles a gallon & has no power.
There are 1000 miles on the Jasoer rebuilt 350, with a new Accel distributor, new NKG plugs, new wires. It has Headman headers and old Qjet.
The timing is set at 12 degrees stock intake.
What should I do?
A: Is the old q-jet opening all the way and are the 4-barrels cutting in??
Also you may want to try 8 degrees.... actually... with the engine idling.
Slowly advance the timing until you hear the idle dropping a little... then move it back a bit and road test for pinging.....
Also try unplugging the vacuum advance and road test... If there's a large power increase, it is hooked up to the wrong vaccuum port.... Ed
Electrical / Lighting Systems Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: My gas gauge and speedometer don't work at all, is there a kit I need to replace it with or just try to change the speedo cable and sender from the gas tank? Also, when I turn my lights on the tail lights don't light up.
A: Batauto.com has plenty of 'ol timers that grew up working on these. They like these old trucks.