Q: I have an 89 Iroc Z that I have rebuilt and reinstalled the engine,TPI 5.0L with 5 spd. manual trans. The problem that I am experiencing is when the engine is under load. It idles perfectly, although the exhaust smells a little rich. While driving at cruise the engine "chugs", (feels like it is misfiring or cutting out), during acceleration, there is no misfire but it feels a bit sluggish. I have had times on acceleration that the tach needle drops 500-1000 rpm when the accel. pedal is depressed and it jumps up when the pedal is let up. During these periods the engine also may backfire some. I suspect the Ignition Contol Module, but I do not know how to troubleshoot the system without sending the car to the shop. Any suggestions?
A: I would be checking my timing reference points first (carefully). Also, the spark plug gap is very important on these engines. Ed
All Part Groups Other Happens always Not applicable
Q: The car overheats and I have already replaced the electric fan motor. The fan will NOT turn
on at any temperature. I bought a radiator fan switch but can not figure out where it goes. Nothing listed in the Haynes book. 1989 IROC-Z with 5.0L 305 and TBI.
A: check your coolant sensor switch also check cooling fan switch it looks almost like the coolant sensor is should also be screwed in somewhere on the intake manifold.
Q: When I switch from reverse to drive, the car makes a large clicking sound a second later.
It's an '88 Iroc I bought from a friend a couple months ago.
It didn't do this before I bought the car and I'm wondering if maybe I broke something.
Also, somehow the air dam on the front end fell off. Summer kicked in right after this happened and the car is overheating frequently.
I don't know if an air dam really makes that big of a difference, or maybe it's something else...? (Radiator is fine)
Thanks
A: Clicking sound is most likely a universal joint.....
Overheating is big time problem because of the air dam missing....
All the newer cars have the small front ends for decreased wind resistance and increased fuel mileage.....
Most of the radiator cooling air is from deflection off and up from air dam to the radiator.....
Electrical / Lighting Systems Other Happens sometimes Always
Q: 1988 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z 305 c.i.d. vin code "E", with 168,000 miles on odometer.
About 2 months ago I noticed the "CHECK ENGINE" light came on briefly and then turned off, I didn't notice anything wrong with my car and there was no difference in the way my engine would idle or accelerate or flat out ran.
A couple of days later I noticed that light came on again, but again it turned off after a couple of seconds. This has gone on for about a month and a half and then it just stopped lighting up. I noticed that there was a small coolant leak coming from around the lower water pump hose connection area and then the voltage gauge started to give erratic readings it would be at the "low end" red zone borderline and then it would go back to normal, but this continues throught driving.
At first I thought that it was the alternator that was going out, but there is no light dimming when I step on the brakes or when I turn on the headlights and I would even turn on all the headlights & high beams, hazards, A/C, with both doors open and wind shield wipers going and the gauge would slighty dip and then go back to normal again.
I noticed that there was NO change in the engine idle either, not even when I had all the electrical items listed above on, but as soon as I get on the road the gauge starts to moving up and down (slowly), if I tap the gauge with my finger, it will return to the normal level and then slowly descend to the "red zone" border, but never go below it.
My concern that it maybe either coolant or electrical since they both are on top of one another in front of the engine. Can you help ? Thanks
A: It sounds like a combination of your coolant leaking onto your belts and cause your belts to slip giving you your low reading. also sounds like you just need a new voltage gauge.
Q: All of a sudden, my engine developed a miss at all speeds, and all temperatures.
As expected, it's more pronounced at low speeds under load.
I have not looked at the plugs or made any compression tests yet.
Is it more likely to be ignition or fuel injector related?
Woody
A: Ignition related first.... possible dead wire.... Ed
Q: I have a 1985, 305, TPI engine. My brakes suddendly got stiff while on the way to run an errand.
I never had trouble with the brake system previously to that incident. It was just weird that this happened suddenly.
I was told by friends (not mechanics but think they are mechanically inclined!) that the brake booster went bad or that it might be the plastic pressure valve?
Well, when I press on the brakes it sounds like a "bus" letting constant pressurized air out until I let go of the brake and it makes the car stutter when the brake is held down, and turns off.
Do you think it is a line leaking air, or the master cylinder went bad?
A: If vacuum comes through the valve to the booster; it is okay. If the booster has vacuum and yet does not work, replace the booster. Ed
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