Chassis / Suspension & Steering Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: WHEN DRIVING OVER SPEED BUMP OR DRAINAGE DIPS, A
RUBBING SOUND IN PASSENGER REAR. SHOCKS HAVE BEEN CHECKED OUT OK!
A: When you checked the shocks, did you also check to see that the leaf springs are set at the right height for the kind of wheels you you're using? Also,look up under the fenders back there and make sure nothings hanging down.
If that's all good, then check the rubber stoppers on the top of the axle. Make sure those are in place and not too wobbly. Sometimes if they are bad,it could make a sound sort of like a rubbing sound. And finally worst case scenario if the axle shaft on that side is somehow worn out or a bearing has failed, that too could cause a rubbing sound.
Q: Camaro is chugging/choking at any time, but mostly from a dead stop or around the 45-50mph. Thought at first maybe it had to do with transmission, but it doesn't happen when changing gears.
Is ok when driving at set speed, but acceleration causes the chug until I let off the gas or floor it hard. Have tried fuel injection cleaners, oil change, air filter has been changed and fuel filter has been changed.
A: i had a 1994 and it did the same thing change your coil wire, its either got a loose connection or its bad.
Heating / Cooling System Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I had my air conditioning checked recently and was advised I had a slow to medium leak in my evaporator core. The mechanic advised me that this is not an after market part yet and can only be purchased through a dealership. Is this correct info? Was also advised to fix the evaporator core would need to replace the orifice tube and accumulator. Just want a 2nd opinion if all this info is correct or if they were trying to take me for a ride!!
A: Doing what the man suggested is the most consertive (and costly) way to eliminate your problem. You could get by via replacement of the evaporator alone but any trash in the system will ruin all components; compressor, evaporator, orifice, accumulator, etc. I don't believe he is correct about it not being an after market item. Mike
All Part Groups Making Noise When accelerating Not applicable
Q: Sometimes, there is a loud rattling sound when the car sits at idle, during acceleration or when auto-shifting gears.
It seems to be commimg from the transmition or the driveshaft.
When the car is idling at a stop, a quick jolt with the brakes stops the sound.
A: Check to see if the heat shield on top of your catalytic converter has worn loose.
If not, have a garage stick it up in the air and most likley they wil be able to find exactly what is going on.
Q: We Have been having problems with our car starting. Sometimes it would start, sometimes, it won't. It would click, and then it doesn't do anything at all. We replaced the starter and that was not it. Could it be the ignition switch? And if so, how do you replace it in our year and model.
A: I would see if the cables are tight first for your battery, and if thats not it, maybe they are dirty...
If your vehicle has airbags, disconnect the battery, then underneth the steering column there will be a little white bow with a rod connecting to it, that is what needs to be replaced... if all else fails get the manual for it.
From Jim: also keep in mind that your car is equipped with a passkey system. Thats the little pellet in the key.
If this is malfuncting you would have the same sympton. one thing to consider: when the engine does not crank do you have to wait about 4 to 5 mins before it will crank? If so try your other key.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I'm looking for fog lights for my car. The sheild on my fog lights is broken, so can I just buy the sheild or do I have to replace the whole light?
A: If these are the original lights, the whole light from a wrecking yard is the way to go..... Click the blue 'Buyers' button under 'Auto Recyclers' on All-Parts.
If they are Bosch lights, then the lens is a seperate part, and is available seperately ....... Ed
Q: The engine idles very high, around 2000-3000 rpm, and I must brake to maintain speed. The problem developed only recently -- prior to two days ago noticed no problems. What could be causing this, and how do I go about fixing it?
Also, when I brake to a stop, there is a choking, wheezing sort of sound, as if something were scraping against something else.
I am sorry, that is all the information I can think to give you. Please help.
A: Check to see if you have any major vaccum leaks, like Pcv valve out or hoses rotten.
All Part Groups Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: When I'm at a stop, the transmission is in drive, foot on the brake, I get a vibration in the center console. If I shift to neutral, the vibration goes away. When actually driving, the vibration is hardly noticed and the car seems to run fine. Mileage is good. The last thing done to the car was a new catalytic convertor but that was several months ago. Any ideas?
A: check the engine mounts, could be that one is bad and that could make vibrations
Q: when im driving sometimes it starts bogging down like it loses power when i poped the hood and wiggled the coil pack it wouild stop so i changed the coilpack and it is still doing it do you know the fireong order for my car?
A: May be the module, look at changing your module in the distributor.
Q: One of the belt wheels broke. It's one that the serpentine belts goes around.
I need to know the name of the part so I can appear knowledgable to my repair guy.
A: There are probably six belt wheels, or pulleys, on this car.
To help you try and appear knowledgeable, I am going to pick the most common one that breaks.
It is called the 'serpentine belt tensioner pulley assembly'.......
Sometimes you can get away with only the wheel part but usually what breaks is the spring and arm portion...... Ed
Chassis / Suspension & Steering Other When driving When warm
Q: I have a 1991 Camaro RS. I swaped the rear to a posi rear from an 1988 Camaro. I hear a lot of rattling in the back of the car. Is it because of the rear or something else. I also noticed if I'm standing next too the rear tires and slightly push the car you can hear it rattle. Any help would be appreciated. You can contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org
A: Problem is with drive shaft, as noted in GM service bulletins concerning 1992 models. Replacing the drive shaft fixes the problem but lets rear end normal noise become more prominent.
Q: When my car is running there is a short pipe on the left side of the motor next to the check valve. It is a triangular shaped part with a wire harness that connects to the top of the triangular part. I wanted to know what it's called and why it's so loud (it has air comming out of it from the exhaust).
A: Sounds like maybe the oxygen sensor????........ Ed
Q: The ignition system shut down when exiting the freeway. It will crank but not start.
It has new spark plugs and wires, a rebuilt distributor and new high voltage coil. The battery, cables, starter, solenoid new. Diaognostic test of ecm computer module normal. No blown fuses evident, no loose connections.
What might it be?
A: So it must be missing either spark or fuel... Discovering which one will put you on track...... Ed
Q: A TING TING SOUND ALMOST LIKE A BELL RINGING COMING FROM ENGINE WHEN STARTED, AND DRIVEN
QUIETS DOWN AFTER THE CAR HAS BEEN DRIVEN FOR
10 TO 15 MINUTES, IT IS A 2.8 LITER V-6 AUTOMATIC WITH OVERDRIVE.
A "ting-ting" sound (almost like a bell ringing) is coming from the engine when it's started. It quiets down after the car has been driven for about 10 to 15 minutes. It is a 2.8 Liter V-6, automatic with overdrive.
A: I would first loosen all the belts on the front of the car and start it..... Belts can and do make a lot of noises.....
Also check the tin covers on the exhaust manifolds and catalytic convertor...... Ed
All Part Groups Malfunction When accelerating Always
Q: When accelerating the engine backfires the backfire comes from bottom of the car sounds like from the exhaust. I just had a new coil, module, cap, roter, plugs and plug wires installed. I had no problems before the new parts were put in. I have also lost power and fuel ecomony.
Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens always Always
Q: Help Please!!
I have an 88 Camaro 2.8 liter with heating and air conditioning.
The blower is not working. Checked fuses, ok. Replaced relay on firewall, blower motor was
replaced last year.
Is there anything I'm missing? It still won't work. I am getting heat and cool just no blowing.
Any help would be apprciated!!
A: Apply power directly to the motor and see if it works. If no, replace it. Ed
Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start When driving Always
Q: car doesnt start, just clicks when key is turned, and vibrates when idling.
A: CHECK STARTER SELONOID TO SEE IF POWER IS GOING THROUGH BOTH CONNECTIONS IF NOT REPLACE SELONOID (APROX $10 PART ADVANCE) AS FAR AS IDILING GOES IT DEPENDS ON WHAT YOUR RPM RANGE IS A DECENT RANGE IS 1000 TO 1500 IF THIS STILL DOES NOT HELP HAYNES OFFERS AN AUTO MANUAL FOR THIS VEHICLE (APROX $15-25 AUTO STORE OR BOOKSTORE)
Electrical / Lighting Systems Other Not applicable When warm
Q: I get code 24 from the ECm which is the vss but I can't find the vss on the vehicle anywhere. It doesn't appear to be on the transmission. There are wires going into transmission with a 4 prong connecter,but it doesn't look like a sensor, just wires going into tranny. I check diferential and no luck ...where is the darn VSS for 86 Camaro 2.8 engine with 700 r tranny
A: that would be right next to the wiring harness on the passenger side fender weil.
Q: How can you check the vacuum booster to the brakes system to see if it is working properly.
The brake pedal feels hard when pressed on but stop the car fine. It feels like the power assist is not working.
Engine vacuum runs 13 to 15 Hg.
A: disconnect the hose from the booster to the engine,sound like the line is plugged,(not to likely) or the booster is bad(if line is disconnected and you can tell no difference)
Electrical / Lighting Systems Chugging When driving When warm
Q: After driving maybe 2 miles the check engine light comes on.
A: scope engine for analysis; disconnect battery; wait 20 minutes; reconnect battery; computer has a habit of shutting down if the electical system overcharges itself; this is a common occurance with these computers. not serious.
Q: How do I identify my Chevy engine thru the casting numbers and stamped numbers on the block?
The 4-bolt main was bought at a swap meet and the seller did not know the exact year or model car it came from.
Cast numbers; 88 3970010
Stamped numbers; V0816TYC T8U500971)
Any info would be helpful. Thanks, T Ruskys
A: The 010 on the end means 4 bolt mains.... the rest you will need the GM dealer to decipher...... Ed
Q: when the car reaches about 2000 rpm, the car loose all power. there is a new cam and lifters in the car. New valve springs, intake manifold and carb, the cam is a torker plus by edlebrock, lifters came with the kit. Valve springs are comp cam, the rockers are roller by comp cam. the intake is a torker by edelbrock. New timing set, double roller by edelbrock. Cam was broken in at 2000 rpm for 1/2 hr, plenty of compression, no vacuum leaks billet distributor is working fine as is the vacuum advance. The car seems to work fine till you reach about 2300 rmp then falls flat. Timing is set at about 12 degrees btdc. I've been messing with this for weeks and still same results. No one seems to have an answer on this one. Have any thoughts. push roda are also new chrome molly. Cap, rotor, wires and plugs are also new and the coil is new too. These are all Accel Thanks for your time. Don email@example.com
Q: I need to know what size pipes to put on my '69 RS Camero. I have a not-stock beefed up motor.
Some guys tell me not to go too big cause I need back pressure? 2inch maybe? Thank you, Pat
A: Pat.. what you need to do is put this car in a box and send it to me right away......
Okay seriously...... we used to use the 2 inch for hi-pro small blocks and 2 1/2 for the big blocks....
Your back pressure will come from the mufflers so choose them carefully..
That loud so cool noise at the beginning gets tiresome before the mufflers are worn out...... Ed
Q: I can hear vacuum leaking while car is running it sounds like ist is at or near the power booster, Then when you shut it the car off it continues for a few seconds, I disconnected the vacuum line and plugged it and the noise was not present.
A: Use carberator cleaner and spray it near all of your suspect vacuum hoses-one at a time. If your engine speed rises , that's where you have a vacuum leak, replace that hose/fitting/clamp and your on your way.
Brake System Upgrade Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I am wanting to switch drums and shoes with disk
brakes on a 68 Camaro where can I look for this?
I really need to find out any info you can give me
on this. I have been needing to do this for some
time now. Please help if you can. Debbie
A: Not a big problem and a number of choices.
A lot of the high performance suppliers make these retro
fit kits.... You may also need to upgrade to a different
brake master cylinder as the disc brake system needs
a lot more fluid transfer to operate properly as well as
some form ofbrake proportioning valve(adjustable type)
to set up the braking characteristics of your car.....
Also check out the possibility of the 86 and newer firebird/
camaro rear brake system as I remember reading that
this works...... The original Z28 cars of that area I believe
had the rear disc option and may still be available......be
careful to make sure that your wheels will work with this
change over also.....
Disc brakes style use a different wheel rim for clearance.
Good luck.......68 is one of my fav's.....I ran the hell out
of a 396/375HP one myself......fastest and best I was
involved with was a 69' ZL1-427.......'bout 730 HP street
car that was a handful of fun.....Ed