Q: FUEL SPEED & TEMPERATURE GAGE DOES NOT COME ON WHEN IGNITION IS TURNED ON.
A: it's probably youre gauges it only take's a very cheap kit to fix this. you can buy this kit at any autopart store. they got a kit for all youre gages ask the clerk at the autopart store.
the same thing happend to me!
Q: Temperature guage indicates excessive overheating after only a few minutes of driving. A few days prior to the excessive overheating, the heater went from inconsistent heat to no heat.
A: Sounds as though you have a coolant leak,If you cannot visually see it you will need to have the cooling system pressure tested,It could be anything from a headgasket,radiator leak or heater hose.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Not applicable
Q: I have a 95 Chevy Lumina 3.1 V6.. i'm having a series of problem all basically related and i think to the same part(s) as well.
1) when driving or just sitting at a light u can visible see my headlights and dash lights dim... for no apparent reason.. and then they come back bout a second after they dim..sometimes this seems rythmatic and other times just random.
2)occasionally i've tunred on the turn signal and when it blinks on everything in the dash cuts out even my radio .. soon as it blinks off everything comes back in.
3) while driving the cars seems to have reseted it self a coupe times.. ie> the airbag light comes on ABS break test and everything...like i just started the car but i didn't start it .. once it stalled when it did this.
4)the speeddometer will jump up 5-10 mph and then fall back down.. sometimes at stop lights when i'm completely stops it reads 5-10 mph
5)on teh drivers side of the car there is a electric center box.... has fuses and relay or circuit breakers for headlamps, ignition, abs, and some other pwr accessories.. this connects to a postitve post that conneects to the positive post on the battery... this got so hot not only did i burn my hand but it melted the plastic caps that sits on it... this box is the only thing that connects to this post..
6) i've gone to start the car sometimes and i start turn on lights and such and then all of a sudden everything shuts down.. no headlights no dome no annoying beeper noise when i leave keys in ignition.. nothin.. when i try to start it again nothing happens.. sometines i can here a ticking or clicking otherwise nothing.. sometimes the dash light will come on when i try to start but very very dimmly... id did this today and when i opend the hood and tapped on the box (described in problem 5) my headlights came on and then the car started no problem...
ok so my question is .. if u've acttully read this far is what the heck is worng... i figure it has to be one of the systems in this box.. or the box itself.. the bottom looked a bit corrided and some wires seems loose but nothing major... I was thinng of redoing this box.. i can buy the box from a dealer but it doens't come with the wiring or anything... so how would i reqire it .. will it come with teh connections for the wires for the relys and fuses or what.. if it does i should have a problem..
so any advice please
A: It seems like you need a bigger alternator because the one in your vehicle is not meeting the demands of your electrical system.
A larger alternator may cost more, but don't listen to what the parts place tells you.
Too much amperage will not hurt your vehicle. It will only draw what it needs, and too little will do more harm than good (little known fact).
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always
Q: The turn signals do not flash; the dashboard light does not come on, yet the hazard lights work just fine. I have checked the fuse and all the light bulbs, which all appears to be just fine.
A: there is a seperate flasher for the turn signals and the hazards.
Heating / Cooling System Other Happens always When warm
Q: The temperature light comes on after the engine warms up. I have changed the temperature sensor, the thermostat and the relays. (4-door with a 3.1 Liter V6.)
The primary and secondary cooling fans will not come on when the sensor is plugged in, as soon as the sensor is unplugged they both will run but the light remains on.
I've checked the relays and they are OK, and so is the fuse. Is it possible that there is a short in the electrical system? I've traced the wire back to the ECM and it seems to be OK.
If the car is turned off for a short period of time the temperature light remains on.
I've bled the system of any air and checked the fluid level to make sure it is full. Please HELP!! Thank You
A: Isn't this the engine with the extra bleeder on the top of the engine? On the intake manifold I think.....
Also..... is the engine actually overheating some???....
The radiator may be partialy plugged.
Also check whether the air dam under the front is broken or gone.
All Part Groups Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: The gear shift does not change the gears. The transmission is a five speed.
The top linkage has come off where it is supposed to be attached at the engine, it is only in first gear.
A: Sounds like either a clip or pin attachement isn't attatched any longer... find that part of the problem and reattach to test.... Ed
Heating / Cooling System Other Happens always Always
Q: I've replaced the compressor , accumulator and the core and my air still isnt working right. The high side pessure is at 80 and should be at about 225, right? so what should I do?
A: If the freon flowing TO the compressor(low side) is restricted, no pressure can be built. Ed
Q: There is a clicking sound that gets louder when accelerating and the tran fluid is fine and the oil is fine, but it still sounds like the pistons are not running smoothly or the spark plugs are dirty
Q: First, this car has been hinting that something was wrong for a while. 6 months ago, it started making a scratching/grinding noise above 2500RPMs when under load (accelerating).
It sounded like it was coming from the top end, not from the water pump or alternator or any other accessory.
I've had mechanics look at it several times, and nobody notices the scratching or the chugging between Drive and Overdrive.
I generally feel every little thing that's wrong, but mechanics just tell me it drives better than their clunkers.
It drives like it's dragging a boat anchor compared to a year ago. Between 40 and 55 mph, the car has trouble engaging overdrive at low RPM's, or staying in OD when going up hills are low RPM's (chugs).
It's fine if you 'kick' it down a gear.
Anyway, the car isn't running now. Friday night, the day after my birthday, I was driving home, and it drove fine for about 2-3 miles, and then I had to slow down. When I hit the accelerator again, the car just puttered but didn't stall. It was miss firing badly.
Once I got up to 60-70mph, it moved along ok, only missing when accelerating. When I got off the highway, it just got worse, until I finally made it home. (9 mile commute)
Now, our lease states we can't work on cars in the parking lot. When I started the car to drive it to a shop, it was missing severely, but running. It moved 5 ft, and stalled. Started, moved 5 ft back and stalled. After that it didn't run.
I've checked vacuum lines. You can hear the fuel pump whine for about 2 secs when turning the key, but it's not nearly as loud as I remember (I might not be remembering right). It putters on the 1st try after sitting a few seconds, and did start once, miss firing severely of course and ran for about 30 seconds with some throttle manipulation. There are no codes in the computer.
Something I did notice was a clicking/ticking from right around the intake plenum when it was running. There are vacuum lines running under there that I can't see. At this point, I don't want to (and again, really can't because of our lease) take the plenum off just to 'check' vacuum lines.
Frankly, I little upset with the shops that I looked at the car previously without finding problems. I paid $60 two weeks ago for a pre-purchase inspection of my own car to find problems. If I paid them $60 for a car I didn't own, but bought on their recommendations, I'd be even more upset right now!
Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance!!!
Glenn Tjapkes
A: Strongest guess is ignition module. Some discount autoparts stores (Autozone) can perform off car testing. They carry cheap parts (you get what you pay for).
jesse7779@hotmail.com
if you email, remind me what you drive/problem :)
Q: I need to know what I have to fix on my lumina Z34 3.4 L. Have have trouble starting it. It drags on like the fuel injecters are plugged and when I feed it to start it sometimes back fires. what is wrong and how can I fix it?
Thanks for your time.
A: Sounds like a timing issue . A back fire is because ignition has occurred and a valve has opened iin the wrong way at the wrong time . Get that timing chain and gears fixed , or replace the timing belt , if this is what your car uses . Engines can , and sometimes do jump their timing . If this happens , then you have problems as you have mentioned .
A: Exhaust Gas Recirculation. Adds a bit of exhaust gas to the incoming air fuel mixture to dilute the fuel charge about to be ignited by the spark plug. This is so that you do not have runaway burn temperatures in the cylinder. Overheating and also the formation of oxides of nitrogen. A destroyer of the ozone layer. Ed
Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: When driving at highway speeds and you approach a hill the transmission goes from lock up to shifting down directly drive skipping the overdrive position.
A: If the "load" requires the shift down to drive, that is what you will get. A lot depends on the position of your right foot. Ed
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