Drive Train / Driveline Other When accelerating When warm
Q: When the transmission gets warm it "chunks" into second gear.
Gas milage is good, shifts good otherwise. The service engine light remains on but my mechanic says it has no hard or soft codes in the computer.
For lots of $$$ they will pull the transmission out at look at it. Is that a good idea??
A: The engine light is on for a reason. Get him to check again. Ed
Drive Train / Driveline Vibration When driving Always
Q: Can you buy an entire drive train for this make and model of truck or do you have to buy enerything seperate and if so where can you purchase that?
A: you don,t say how bad the vibration is or where you suspect it's coming from. I would check the universal joints for excessive play or dry bearings(you must remove drive shaft to pull the caps off to check the needle bearings),check the C.V. shaft boots for tears or grease leaks,(C.V. joints need plenty of grease)have wheel/tires checked for balance/out of round/broken belts in tires,check gear lube levels in differential(s)
if you've done all that or after you do and you still have a problem you can buy the pieces separate or go find a totaled out vehicle with a good drive line and have a go at swapping it all or you could spend 99 cents and put a "for sale" sign on it GOOD LUCK
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always
Q: How do I ask for, and order, the blinker switch/ stick in the column that the hazard light switch/button are connected to? The hazard switch/button broke-off and I need to replace the entire mechanism.
A: Check through the Auto Recyclers section.......
We don't have a Chev supplier for that part yet...... Ed
Chassis / Suspension & Steering Making Noise When turning Always
Q: There is a clunking sound when turning, going over bumps and especially when the vehicle hasn't been driven in a while and I first start out.
Could it be the ball joints and if so how hard are they to replace myself?
A: These vehicles are will known for lower ball joints and idler arm wear.
Replacing the original ball joints are difficult.
The original ball joints are pressed in and have to be removed with an air hammer.
There is also a bulletin from General Motors for hood washers for a similar complaint.
Q: I have a 1996 Chevrolet S10 Blazer 4x4 with electronic 4x4. When i push the 4wd button to switch to 4wd, the light switches but the 4wd doesn't engage. Can you help me with my problem.
A: First thing I would do is have one person under the truck and another in the cab pressing the button while the person underneath is listening for the transfercase actuator motor to engage in the transfer case. If it doesnot operate, it is most likely the motor that has malfunctioned or a relay problem.Also check/clean electrical connectors an make sure that they have some dilectric grease on them. Good luck
Ignition System Won't Start Not applicable Not applicable
Q: The ignition will not turn with (or without) the key in. The steering wheel is locked, but I tried moving it back and forth along with the shifter (it is an automatic) and it still won't budge... Please help...
A: You will need a steering wheel & a star wheel puller. Remove air bag, pull steering wheel & star wheel to get down to switch assy. Probably will have to replace switch assy.
NOTE, DO NOT DO THIS YOURSELF IF YOU DON,T KNOW HOW, HAVE IT DONE BY A SHOP. AIR BAGS ARE NOTHING TO MESS WITH UNLESS YOU HAVE DONE THIS BEFORE. DB
Electrical / Lighting Systems Chugging When stopped Not applicable
Q: The service engine light comes on about every 5 months. When this happens, the blazer idles rough only when stopped. It doesn't die on me, it just idles rough. This will only go on for a couple of days and then the light will go off and it will run just like nothing ever happened. It's been doing this for about 3 years. Could it be the oxygen sensor or another type of sensor?
A: You will need to check for codes with a scanner. If you like to do your own repairs, and don't wish to purchase an OBD2 scan tool..
You can have a shop scan the pcm, get a shop or dealer that does it for cost of time (ex.- half hour @ $50 per hour).
Or, autozone will scan for trouble codes free of charge. Keep in mind, the majority of mechanics do not recommend 'discount parts houses' replacement parts. And a trouble code is only an indication of what is wrong, you will need further assistance.
The only parts I recommend replacing without diagnosis... are parts involved with a tune-up and reguraly scheduled maintenance. Don't gamble!
Q: Any bump in the road seems to make the rear window squeek. Is there a fix for this?
A: U have experienced the s-10 window squeak- it has plagued me and my freinds (who own blazer s-10's) for years---- a temparary fix is to wrap athletic tape around where the lock latches- we do this and it stops it for a while!
Electrical / Lighting Systems Other Happens always Always
Q: Just wondering where the ground is for the digital dash on a '94 S-10 Blazer 4 door. I'm assuming it's a bad ground that won't make parts of the dash work. The speedometer, trip and odometer work, but the temperature gauge, gas gauge and oil pressure gauge have never worked. However, a weird thing happened awhile back. Got stuck in deep snow and somewhere along the way the whole dash worked for about 2 or 3 days. Is there something underneath that needs to be adjusted? Any help would be excellent. Thanks tons!!
A: Right below your brake booster and steering link, on the engine side firewall, are several I/P bulkheads, or connectors. Disconnect the negative battery lead and back out the center screw retainer on all of those connections. Don't completely disconnect them, they are a bear to get back on correctly..Just back out the screw, wiggle and re-tighten (you're most concerned w/ C100, a 20 pin connector).
Then go under the driver's side dash and look for a 34 pin feed-through connector labled C201 (sometimes!). You will probably need to lay the fuse panel aside to make room to get to it. Do the same loosen / wiggle, tighten deal to this side of the connector. Pins 30, 31 and 35 are the input signals from temp, oil and gas sender / switches. Pins 150 and 450 are grounds.150 terminates above the left kick panel to the chassis, 450 connects to 237 and terminates at the convienence center ( the little relys w/ Seat Belt Buzzer printed just underneath). Ensure both are tight and clean.
This may sound wierd but try replacing your emergency flasher while you're down there, that dawg can cause your problem, and others.
Good Luck......
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always
Q: I've got a '94 S-10 Blazer 4-door with a digital dash, where some parts of the dash work and others don't. The speedometer and odometer work fine, however, the oil pressure gauge, fuel gauge, temp. and battery gauges don't. However a weird thing happened a few weeks ago. I got stuck in deep snow here in Michigan and for about 2 or 3 days, everything worked like it should. I'm guessing it's something on the frame or something. Just wondering if there is a ground underneath the truck that needs adjusting. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks tons!
A: Most probably you will have to replace the digital dash unit. It is not unusual for extreme temperature changes to make them work/not work....and not unusual for part of the unit to work/not work. You might check with a GM parts person to find out if they know of a rebuilder. Also, check for aftermarket replacements, sometimes they are a lot cheaper than the GM replacement. DB
Q: I replaced the spark plugs and spark plug wires yesterday. After starting up, the idle sounds very rough, as though one cylinder isnt firing. I thought I put the wires back on the distributor cap in the correct positions, but would like to find a wiring diagram for the plugs from the distributor. Are there any other things that I could have messed up? I am going to go through and switch out each spark plug individually and see if one of them is bad.
Thanks
Rick
A: WHEN YOU DID THE TUNE UP WAS YOUR DISTRIBUTOR CAP LOOSE IF SO THE TIMING COULD BE OFF A LITTLE YOU CAN PICK UP A MANUAL WITH FIRING ORDER AND OTHER HELPFUL INFORMATION FOR(APROX $15-35 AT MOST AUTO PARTS STORES OR BOOKSTORES)
Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens always Not applicable
Q: Hi,
My heater blower fan does not work. The fuse is good and I replaced the switch with a new one. What should be my next step? How do I access the blower motor - from the inside or outside.
Thank You,
Daryl Gerber
A: Check the blower resistor(locations vary check a chilton book or another info source). The motor is probably the cause and should be located on the passenger side on the back of the firewall in the engine compartment, if not remove the glove box and it is behind the heater core.
Chassis / Suspension & Steering Making Noise Not applicable Not applicable
Q: Have new ball joints, shocks.
There's a banging sound when going over bumps either straight or cornering.
I notice that the sway bar bushings are worn.
Would the sway bar make that much noise?
Thanx,
Tim
A: Oh ya......bang bang bang.....and loud too.....
They are inexpensive and easy to change..... good luck... Ed
Q: When shifting from 2 to 4 wheel drive, it feels like it shifts because I can feel the associated vibration, but it doesn't engage.
I was told that I have a bad vaccum switch which is located within the shifter housing and that the rest of the 4x4 system was good.
I can't find any reference to this in any book. Your insight would be appreciated.
Cheers,
Tim
A: Tim...... does the light on the dash?
...2 whl ....4x4 ...etc ...work??
Q: What do I prep the bare metal with before I primer it to prevent or retard rust from showing after a year. I seem to get varying answers from vinyl wash to "Rust Check" spray.
Cheers,
Tim
A: Just clean the bare metal and then primer it well.....
The primer sticks to the metal and the paint sticks to the primer.... Ed
Q: When you start the engine up, the motor runs at a high rpm for about 3or4 secounds when cold. After the engine gets hot when you step on it fast it chugs for a secound or 2 and black smoke comes out it. There is not any cods showing.
Q: Just had work done on intake manifold. Then on a trip of less than 100 miles we started to hear a noise that sounds like knocking piston. The s-10 still starts up & runs good. When we where looking under engine and checking oil we noticed that the front main pulley that is directly off crank was wobblie.
We believe the front main bearing to be suspect.
IS IT SAFE TO DRIVE?
What is the best and cheapest remedy?
A: It is possible that the bolt which holds on your pulley and harmonic balancer has come loose. This is strange,because there is no need to remove that bolt to work on the intake manifold. Also,the front main"bearing"is actually a part of the crankshaft itself and seems an unlikely culprit.I would recommend obtaining a socket that fits the nut which holds this pulley on and tightening it as tight as possible by hand (that's assuming, of course that the bolt is still there;it may have fallen off) or if you have an air compressor and impact driver"gun"that would be the best thing to do.
This will probably remedy the problem,but of course it is hard to be sure without seeing the vehicle.
As for this s-10 being safe to drive,I would advise against driving it until you have corrected the problem. If the pulley comes flying off while your bookin' down the highway,there's no telling where it will go and you may damage a few components in the engine compartment.....---heaux
Q: The car just died. Will not start. There is spark to the engine. the engine turns over and starter runs But the fuel pump does NOT run. Can't hear it when attempting to start engine which just will not run. Have swapped fuel pump out and tested old pump - it worked fine. Apparently wasn't getting power (?)
computer gives no codes - using a pocket scanner.
Am now trying to change fuel pump relay but frankly have not been able to locate it. Where is it located?
Any other ideas we can try? Thank you VERY much.
A: You may need to check the ignition switch to see if it is delivering power out of all circuits, this is far more common a problem than a relay in the GM vehicle. The switch is located down the steering column on top and is a bit difficult to get to.
Q: It starts hard...then when started it sounds like it wants to quit when idiling...hesitates.
already replaced cpi unit...spark plugs & wires.
A: Remove and clean the idle air control motor and channel...... then disconnect the negative battery post(key off) and leave it for at least a minute.... should fix this problem for you.... Ed
Q: It was making constant rattling noise in the engine compartment when the engine was running, then the battery went dead. There was electrical burnning smell.
A: CHECK THE ALTERNATOR,MAYBE SHE BURNT UP FROM A BAD BEARING,AND OR AN ELECTRICAL SHORT.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I have a 1990 S-10 Blazer Sport. It has the digital gages,gas,mph,rpm,ect. I went out one day to start it and as soon as I turned the ignition switch on the dash lit up for a few seconds, and then went out. Smoke started coming out around the dash. I took the gage panel out, and its circuit board is burnt up. So I was needing to find out if you had one or could help me find one.
A: They can be purchaced over the internet for about 175.00 used. Look around not too hard to get. Better find out what the problem is before u put the new one in or poof back to square one.
Windows / Glass Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: Power windows... Windows will only let down a few inches, then you will hear a loud click- click- click.
Raise window til all the way up & starts clicking at top.
Someone mentioned a plastic " belt" How hard is it to replace?
I am handy with tools & have had door panel off before? Is it a dealer only part?
A: The smaller your hands the easier they are to replace :)
They are easy technically speaking, just can be a tough to get to.
I have always bought the track from dealer, wouldn't hurt to try local parts store.
As a general rule dealer parts are of superior quality (and priced that way).
Engine Making Noise Happens sometimes Not applicable
Q: I just bought this truck from a friend knowing that it didnt run. My dad (okay, so mostly my dad) and I replaced the lifters, etc. and got her to run. There is sound like a marble has been dropped into the engine, and it pings around rather loudly for 5- 10 seconds and then stops, only to start again 1-5 minutes later? It's a 2.8
A: Timing issue , or pre-ignition . Either of which are serious and need to be corrected asap . Check the function of the EGR valve . This could also be a problem .
Q: My speedometer stop working one morning,and service engine soon light came on. Then I notice that my overdrive was not engaging either.
I had a diognostic check done and was told that my sensor was not reading my speed and this is why it won't engage.
My cluster is in need of repair to correct this problem. The trans shifts fine otherwise. My question is, can I purchase the cluster or do I need to have it send in for repair?....
Please let me know and if this information I recieved is true.
A: You can purchase the replacement used or have yours repaired. The proposed solution matches the diagnosis. Ed
Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: I have problems to get the 4wheel drive to go in, when I put the tranny into 4-LOW the transfer case splits the gears but I do not get 4wheel traction. There was a problem with the vacume lines, but I cant seem to figure out how to rout them. The motor is a 2.8v6 please help thank you Billy.
A: The chain of events is such; Moving the 4wd lever in the truck controls a vacuum pot (under hood). the vacuum pot controls a cable which in turn mechanically engages the front differential into 4wd. Your hubs are self locking and probably will require some vehicle motion to self engage. My guess is that the vacuum line to the vacuum pot under the hood is either disconnected or has a profound leak.It should be found on the passenger side in the egine compartment. This system is nearly identical to that used in similar years Jeep Cherokees. I used to have an '85 GMC. If 4wd didn't engage, this was the cause.
Chassis / Suspension & Steering Won't Start When turning Always
Q: the ignition just turns freely. It won't start. I do not even get accessories to come on. The radio or wipers do not come on. What can it be? Is it in the steering column itself? I would like a quide to show me how the steering column goes together all the way inside it. Thank You. Rose Foster.
A: It would be easier and cheaper and purchase a column from a salvage yard and replace the whole thing.
Q: Rear two pronged handle on tailgate broke off. Does entire lockset need to be replaced (still intact) or can a new handle be snapped on somehow without replacing lockset?
Q: My blazer has a 2.8. What do I need to do to put in a 350? It is a 4/4.
Will the transfer case from a stick fit an automatic? They are both 4/4 transmissions, one older - 1974.
Please help if you can!!!
A: CONTACT ADVANCE ADAPTERS IN CALIFORNIA
Go to www.Jagsthatrun.com., they have a book that tells how to convert an s-10 to a V-8
2wd or 4 wd
This way to the live technicians