Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: I've noticed that the voltage is just shy of 14 volts when idling in park; when the vehicle is put into drive the voltage goes down to around 12; is this normal on this car? I've never noted this on any other vehicle.
A: This is a normal condition, when you put it in drive, the idle speed drops slightly, so the alternator puts out less....nothing to worry about. DB
Q: I am attempting to change my brake switch. When I press down on the brakes, no light appears in the back. I have purchased a brake switch, but cannot find it near the brake pedal.
A: Usually near the top of the pedal arm. Sometimes at the master cylinder area. Ed
Q: 1996 SUBURBAN 1500 - HAS PLUGGED FUEL FILTER UNDER VEHICLE - NO GAS FROM PUMP AFTER REMOVING FILTER - REPLACING PUMP, HAVE TANK COVERS AND STRAPS OFF BUT TANK STILL 'UP THERE'... WHAT HOLDS THE TANK ON BESIDES THE ABOVE????
Electrical / Lighting Systems Other When driving Always
Q: Cruise control suddenly stops working.
If I turn car off and restart it, this sometimes resets things and it works fine for a while.
Sometimes, off and back on does not reset and it remains nonfunctional.
Do you sell the cruise control module for this
1994 suburban K1500, 4wd 5.7 L V8?
If so, how much will it cost?
A: Have your turn signal/cruise control lever checked out first, I have had to replace this on several Chevys. DB
Q: HAS THROTTLE BODY. WILL NOT START UNLESS APROX A TEASPOON OF GAS IN PUT IN CARB. THEN IT WILL START. HAVE REPLACED EGR VALVE, AND SELINOID, OIL PRESSURE SENDING UNIT. RUNS FINE AFTER GAS IN PUT IN, BUT WILL NOT ILDE. SOMETIMES IT WILL START WHEN IT GETS TO OPERATING TEMPERATURE, BUT NOT ALWAYS.
A: Check the idle air control valve. Also for a major vacuum leak.
Drive Train / Driveline Other When accelerating When cold
Q: Vehicle has 40K miles and transmission fluid changed at 25K. When cold the upshifts are very abrupt and seem rough. These smooth out after warmed up (10-20 miles).
A: This is a 700r4 transmission and they are known for it.....also make sure that the proper fluid got used......Ed
Heating / Cooling System Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: Blows fuses when blower motor is operating. This affects the speedometer (doesnt work) and the brake light comes on.
I replaced the blower motor and one of the wires in the dash which was chaffed.
It takes about 10 minutes of running before the fuse blows.
A: Something in the system is drawing far too much current. Possibly the switch. Check for discolored connections, etc. Ed
Drive Train / Driveline Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: While accelerating, their is a 'clicking' or 'tapping' sound that seems to come from under the driver seat. (3/4 ton 4 x 4 Suburban 2500 3 speed Automatic.)
I was told the rear seal is leaking when I went thru a quick lube place. I believe they are correct.
Also when stepping on the accelerator to downshift a sharp squeal can be heard.
My question.... Does this all relate to the rear crankshaft seal? Or does it indicate other complications?
Also what type of seal is requirted, a full seal or sectional?
Thank you
A: Most of the rear seals are of the circular type now, but of course yours is in transition land.... some of each were produced....
I don't think that the clicking or other problems are related to the seal... possibly in the transfer case though.... that would be the first place I looked on your truck.... Ed
Ignition System Malfunction When starting Not applicable
Q: When attempting to start, sometimes engine cranks very sluggishly as if the battery were dying, and then finally it catches.
This doesn't happen every time, many times it starts normally.
In addition while driving the "Fasten Seat Belt" light and buzzer will go on and off for no apparent reason.
A: The light on and off is a common problem....
Pull the relay from the fuse panel to fix that..... the starter sounds like it needs replacing....
They are close to the exhaust manifold and get hot, which increases resistance and makes them reluctant to turn....
See if you can also purchase a heat sheild to protect it..... Ed
Q: None of the four power side windows operate. The tailgate window does operate.
Prior to this complete operational failure of the side windows, they would fail from time to time, all four together, then later the same day they would resume operating properly.
The fuses seem to be okay.
Advice? Relay? If relay, where is it? Why doesn't it also operate the tailgate window?
A: Side windows and tailgate window are seperate systems....
The switch assembly at the drivers door is the main switch.... Try unplugging it and using a jumper wire... connect directly and momentarily to each of the side window up and down connections....
Assuming that you have power TO the master switch of course....
If you do not..... find out why... good luck
Chassis / Suspension & Steering Other When driving Always
Q: Regarding ride, this Suburban drives okay, but with 180,000 miles, would it appreciably improve the ride and handling to replace ball joints, tie rod ends, bushings and other front end parts?
It's now a family car, and I'd like a firm, responsive ride, not truck rough. Any recommendation for shock absorbers.... considering Monroe Reflex, the GYB and Gabriel?
A: Only if the parts mentioned are worn out and loose... If not, save your time and money....
Gas shocks are a good addition, and good quality tires will give you what you need... Ed
Q: Wondering about rebuilding heads... At what point does one replace them instead? And should I consider going further with engine work? Would this eliminate smoking at startup?
My 1/2 ton Suburban 350 cid fuel injection, with 180,000 miles runs fine, except it smokes upon starting, and it pings considerably when climbing grades at road speed.
The previous owners did no engine work. The engine sounds okay. It uses about a quart per thousand miles and gets 14-15 mpg cruising at 70 mph or around town.
A: Try replacing the valve seals first as this was a common problem.....
Also run the engine at about 2000 rpm and SLOWLY pour cold water into the throttle boar to clean the carbon out....
Q: I would like more horsepower.
Would a dual exhaust system provide more power?
Are there any appreciable benefit to "cat back" dual systems?
Or a chip?
A: I believe Banks makes an intake/exhaust upgrade for this vehicle......
A chip also helps if you predetemine what you are after, and then shop accordingly.... Ed
Q: It cuts off, but starts right back up when I start it. Also I'm wondering whether an '87 Suburban has a distributor? Thanks for your time and patience.
A: Idle air control motor dirty.. remove and replace to clean, including the channel.... Ed
Q: The engine was randomly sputting back through carb on load start or just after shift into 2nd gear. Put BG in tank and cured problem.
Ran fine few miles then started to consistently miss all speeds hot or cold. Acts like a seven cylinder.
A: Check your plugs for fouled...t he BG may have loosened some carbon, and fouled a spark plug.... Ed
Q: After warming up and running for awhile - on a load or at cruise speed - the engine will sometimes miss and spoof thru the carb.
It will be at random and sometimes once or two or three times in a row.
I used valve cleaner in tank and spark plugs and ignition are good. I pulled into Auto Zone and got my trusty Allemite CD2 and put in the oil. Drove awhile and no missing..
Could this be sticking or gummed up valve stems? or worse? Dave
A: Could be Dave.... carbon is a huge problem nowadays and especially with the carburetor car engines.... Ed
Q: I have a 454 with now an electric fuel pump because car was stalling and starving.
I assumed the cam pushrod wore down and not enough movement happenned in the mechanical pump arm.
Well, the car still starves after driving a while, and the electric pump is running like crazy with little to no outlet pressure to the car.
I bounce the rear of the truck and the gas goes through, but that's limited and it eventually starves again.
I'm assuming there is a blockage in the screen or sock.
Could there be that much sludge in the bottom of the tank? And is there a sock or a metal screen on the pickup? Is there anyway to clean the tank without removing it?
Any help apreciated. Dave.
A: Finally found a welding glove floating in a motor home tank a few years ago, but not before thousands had been spent on everything else...... take the tank out and find out just what's going on in there..... Ed
Q: I put a new electric heavy duty fuel pump 72 gph about 71/2 lbs with an inline filter as required by warranty.
Vehicle runs good until I turn on the a/c with high fan. The vehicle starts to starve out and I let off the gas then it recovers.
I noticed the amp meter gradually drops from charge center to just low of center towards discharge.
I shut off the a/c the currents comes back up some and the starving stops. Any help appreciated, Dave
A: Elecric fuel pumps are sensitive to voltage supply..... each 1 volt drop kills about 25% of efficiency......
Also, the placement of the electric pump is critical.... they need to be as close to the gas tank as possible.... they are "pusher" pumps... not "sucker" type pumps........ Ed
Thank you for visiting. You will find thousands of car solutions here. You are welcome to find answers & solutions to your car questions.
This way to the live technicians
You are invited to try a valuable new system we're testing. We want to improve your experience with your car in every way possible. Please reserve today. There are only a trunk-load more free spots available.
Please put me on the list and keep me updated.
We respect your privacy and will never share your info with anyone.
This way to the live technicians