Q: Every time I shut my engine down the prime is lost at the engine. I have to wait for the electric fuel pump to prime the engine before I try to start it. It then fires up immediately.
Also while driving, I experience a loss of power and chugging during acceleration. But, on cruise it runs as smooth as glass.
It has new ingnition wires, distributor cap, rotor, coil etc., but the problem is still there.
By the way my engine is a factory "Turbo".
A: I would be doing a fuel pump pressure test including the "bleed back" or pressure maintaining test......... Ed
The car periodically has no power, and "pops" back through the intake system when accerating.
Once in a while it will die completely, and after leaving it for 5 minutes to one hour, it will start again but still not produce power.
When it is working properly, it has very good power and runs smoothly.
Even when the problem exists, the engine still starts well, idles and runs smoothly when the car is stationary (not under load).
There are No vaccum leaks or other air leaks in the emission control or intake areas. The air flow control valve works well and checks out 100% electrically. Operating temperature of the engine seems to make no difference with the problem. I've checked All electrical wiring and connectors to All sensors, ECU and AFC.
Any suggestions?
A: Be sure to check whether the timing belt has jumped. Also could be a cam shift going bad, or lifter sticking.
Q: Someone has told me that it is the neutral safety switch that is bad. The car starts fine if you short the starter or if you roll start it. But when you try to start it with the ignition key all you hear is a faint click that comes from under the glove box.
And if this is a neutral safety switch that is bad then is that what you would look for when trying to locate the part.. as of yet i have not found that part listed
A: the neutral safty switch wont let you start if the clutch pedal is not to the floor. check your starter relay (or solenoid).
Drive Train / Driveline Other When driving When warm
Q: After driving the car for 15 to 20 minutes, the tranny gets really hot - hot to the point that if you touch the metal shaft on the shifter it will slightly burn you.
I have changed the gear oil, but that did not change a thing.
The hotter it gets, the less she wants to go and the harder it is to get her to go in to gear.
Would a tranny cooler help or should I just go ahead and get a new tranny and clutch?
A: If it is manual then you probably can't put a cooler on it. Check to see that your engine is at the right temperature. Also check to see that your brakes aren't dragging and putting unneccesary strain on the tranny.
This way to the live technicians