All Part Groups Making Noise When driving Not applicable
Q: It doesn't occur consistently, but the sound I hear when I'm on uneven ground (i.e. a particularly bumpy area) is something between the plucking of a string on a cello and the twanging one might hear from a spring.
I've gotten a report that it's probably a rear crossmember that needs to be replaced, along with the bushings, but I'd like a second opinion, due to the significant cost I've been quoted (503.50 for the crossmember).
A: If the sound is coming from the rear of the car then you are probably on the right track. A used part would save you money. Try the Blue "Buyers" Button on the left of this screen to search for parts under "Auto Recyclers".
Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I have a 94 Shadow ES, 2.5L.
About a month ago, a short (approx 2') black vacuum hose came loose from somewhere under the dash. At the same time, the buttons on my A/C that controls airflow to different levels in the car quit working.
Can you tell me if this hose is the problem and where each end of it goes or perhaps where I can find a diagram of the A/C control system so I can fix it.
A: Okay, I have an 85 Reliant and I think they the same vacuum design is similar. The little buttons that you push are vacuum controled (that's why it doesn't work). I don't have one with me but if you get a Chilton's manual or a Haynes and look at the vaccuum diagram. If you look at the broken line the other end won't be too far off, the 2" section is probibly the primary control hose, you can do a quick fix by duct-taping the pieces back together but Id recommend getting a replacment from your local auto parts store.
Q: The car starts and runs ok, but when driving at highway speeds the engine bucks occasionally. It feels like the igniton shuts off for a split second.
A: Do a quick ignition check, check your distributor for cracks or corrosion, check your plug wires with an ohmmeter to makesure that they aren't breaking down from the heat (check when cold and warm to be accurate), and check your plugs to make sure that they aren't fouled or damages (clean and regap if they are to bad get some more). Finally check your timing and the distributor advance line (vacuum if it isnt electronic). Hopefully this will solve your problem, it sounds like your timing isn't advancing correctly.
Q: Front wheel drive, has hole plugs on the rear end of the actual motor. These plugs were for original openings for motor asessories in rear of doghouse. When engine was turned for front wheel drive, these openings were plugged.
A: Ha, ha, ha, thats funny! The holes are for holding the engine when it was made.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Not applicable Always
Q: I have a 1993 Dodge Shadow ES. For some reason, my directionals aren't working. I did check the fuse frist off, but that wasn't the problem. Then I tried to find the flasher, but the only one that I can find is on a plastic box, but that one only controls the Hazard Flashers. At this point I have no idea where to look for the flasher or why my directions aren't working. I can pull the directional lever, it locks in place like it should, but nothing happens. I'm not getting anything coming up on my control pannel nor are my exterior blinkers working. What could this possibable be?
A: The flasher works after the signal lights on the dash light up. If no dash lights, then it is a power problem between the fuse panel and the switch. Ed
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always
Q: With headlights off, the left turn signal comes on but does not blink. The right turn signal blinks slowly. The brake lights work, but are dim.
With headlights on, turn signal indicators on dash come on, but no blinking. Taillights come on, except left one is so dim it's barely visible. When I apply the brakes, left taillight goes out, right one dims, but the center one works fine.
Headlights work fine, dash lights work fine. All interior lights are slightly dimmer than when new, but I'm attributing that to the age of the vehicle.
Battery less than two years old. Alternator less than 5 years old. Have replaced fuses (not the flasher, though) and most bulbs.
Accident has smashed in driver's side door and part of the left rear fender. Could this have damaged the wiring?
Would like to fix this myself or at least have a second opinion to back up or refute anything the repair shop might say.
Also, I don't know if this is related, probably just a sensor somewhere, but my temperature guage floats, hot to cold. Sometimes it will spike in either direction, but it's never in any one place long enough for me to trust it. The severity of this changes if I accidentally put cheap gas in it.
A: This sounds like a bad ground connection problem. Check and clean the battery and body cable grounds. Also, the bulbs and sockets. Ed
Q: makes a funny noise when quiet. its sorta like a ticking slows to a stop after car is off.
A: Heat expansion is the most likely cause . This is very common and there is nothing that can be done about it , short of not driving the vehicle . Do , however , make sure that the coolant system is alright . The ticking noise may be another problem as well . If the valves get out of adjustment , these will cause a ticking noise while driving . Hydraulic lifters , rocker arms , and the cam shaft can also be a cause of ticking noises while driving . These are serious problems and need to be addressed at the earliest time possible .
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: When engaging the reverse gear
rear lights do not work.
A: of course, check your fuses and light bulbs. if they are all ok, then check the electrical on your transmission. you could have a broken switch that activates the lights in reverse. you may need a friend to help you. but make sure all connectors are connected and tight.
Q: When I start the 2.2 engine, the rpm's rev way up until I put it in gear (manual trans.).
It even does it while driving when I push the clutch in to change gears. It seemed to do it worse after a oil change.
A: Have your idle speed lowered back to original specs. Sometime they work they way around after years of use.
Also if it has cruise control, have that system checked; it will only end up hurting it later and killing gas mileage.
Windows / Glass Malfunction Not applicable Not applicable
Q: The slide bracket (plastic)on the bottom of my drivers side electric window is broken.(1992 dodge shadow conv.) It is rivited in place. Can I drill out the old one and rivit a new one in place? Will I need special rivets?
Where can I buy the parts? Is there a web page where a non-mechanic like myself can look up part numbers?
A: try a dealership, an out parts store, or a junkyard for a new slide bracket. You can drill out the old one and rivet a new one in it's place(any rivet will work as long as it fits snuggly in the place of the old rivet), If you don't have a rivet gun, you could use a screw instead (not recomended but will work)
Q: When i start the car, the check engine light comes on... sometimes it doesnt stay on but most of the time it does..... i think i hear piston knocking when i rev the engine...
A: Run the self diagnosis by turning the key on off on off on (NOT STARTING THE CAR) It will flash the check enging light to give you any errors. code 55 means it is finished.
http://www.allpar.com/ has the error codes for your car listed.
Q: Recently, the temperature gauge has started swinging rapidly as I drive. I have changed the thermostat 3 times in the past, and generally the temperature is controlled below the halfway point on the gauge. This probelm is worse when I travel at slower speeds. The engine itself is not getting overheated, and the coolant is not boiling. While looking at this, I found a small leak that occured near where the coolant hose attaches to a metal housing. There is a gasket there, but the leak APPEARS to be coming from the metal housing itself. When I turn the car on, the leak goes from nearly nothing to a pretty good stream. I figure these problems are related, or perhaps one caused the other. I'm not sure how to approach this.
A: You didn't mention if you have the 4 or V6 in your Duster. If it is the I4 *and possibly with the 6 also*,you are getting air in your cooling system... if you look where the Temp sensor is near the thermostat, you will see it is on a 'high spot' that would collect air as your cooling system cycles. this air will be HOT, even thought your coolant is still warming.... once your thermostat opens, it will pass the air on though. This is a GREAT way to tell if your headgasket is dieing on a Turbo car! the air very easily could be coming bach though your current leak... an easy 'fix' is to drill a small (1/16 in) hole in the top edge of your thermostat, to let this 'free air' pass though
All Part Groups Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: Recently, the temperature gauge has started swinging rapidly as I drive. I have changed the thermostat 3 times in the past, and generally the temperature is controlled below the halfway point on the gauge. This problem is worse when I travel at slower speeds. The engine itself is not getting overheated, and the coolant is not boiling. While looking at this, I found a small leak that occured near where the coolant hose attaches to a metal housing. There is a gasket there, but the leak APPEARS to be coming from the metal housing itself. When I turn the car on, the leak goes from nearly nothing to a pretty good stream. I figure these problems are related, or perhaps one caused the other. I'm not sure how to approach this.
A: my 94' shadow is doing the same thing -- replaced the thermostat and the temperature sensor for the gage. nothing works
A: Driver is under 25 yrs, or over??..... Most gas mileage is directly affected by shoe size.......
Size 'flat to the floor' and size 'jackrabbit start' have very poor mileage numbers......
Most good drivers get 18 to 25 miles per gallon...... Ed
Q: I GET A OXYGEN SENSOR LEAN CONDITION CODE ON MY CAR BUT THE SENSOR IS NEW. THE FUEL SYSTEM HAS BEEN CHECKED AND ALL PRESSURES ETC.. ARE GOOD. THE CODE SEEMS TO COME AND GO WITHOUT DISCONNECTING THE BATTERY. WHAT COULD BE CAUSING THIS PROBLEM.??
A: Start with a complete tune up. Check for any vacuum leaks. Closely inspect all vacuum hoses. Especially map sensor vacuum hose. A failing map sensor can also be the problem.
Ignition System Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: looking for the zero mark on the bell housing for top dead center (notches are visible but numbers are worn off-Cant tell which notch is number zero)
A: zero mark in on the front side of the car and in 2 degree increments. If you're setting the timing, make you that you disconnect the temperature switch on the thermostat housing area to put the engine into curb idle then reconnect it once timing is set. depending on whether it's an automatic or manual transmission, the idle speed varies. Man. is 800 and the auto is 900. Timing should be 10 degrees if i remember correctly.
Q: wont stay running... rpms go to 500 and then die... dies at intersections if not warmed up for at least 10 minutes
A: Very good possibility the EGR valve is stuck partially/completely open. This will not set a fault code as quickly as an engine coolant temp. sensor or IAC (idle air control), which are other possiblities but not as likely as an EGR.