Drive Train / Driveline Other Not applicable Always
Q: It won't stay in reverse once it's put in gear. This makes it hard to backup. Easy solutions?
A: If this is a manual transmission...
And you have not moved the linkage, or replaced the clutch just before the problem arrived, and the carpet is not bunched up not allowing complete engagement....
Then the shift fork is probably bent.... Ed
Q: Was driving normally 40mph, engine died. Has spark at distributor's inside center lead.
No spark to any outputs/plugs. replaced rotor & cap,old one's looked ok. yes rotor spins when i crank engine & timing seems ok.( tested= #1@TDC & rotor is pointing at wire#1 ).
Tested w/neon bulb glows equally @ new coil or new Dist.cap inside lead.
No hint of glow across new rotor. plug wires ok. no visible arcing or moisture.
Have reseated connectors all over even under dash. strong gas smell after cranking over awhile, can burn gas off removed plug. plenty of fuel getting to cylinder.
Q: When starting the starter motor sounds like it is not engaging the flywheel.
It takes several tries before it will engage and start. It makes a grinding sound when trying to turn over.
The battery is new and is fully charged. This just started after a little bite of off-road travel.
A: Check to ensure the starter mounting bolts have not loosened off a little....... and that the plate underneath is not bent....
It could be the starter drive or the ring gear also..... Ed
Exhaust System Upgrade Not applicable Not applicable
Q: Old system is stopped up. like to up grade
A: This is not a popular customizing vehicle so it will require some research for you to find available modifications. Or, an exhaust shop can bend up what you need. Ed
Q: I just bought a Bronco II and the starter seems to have a dead short. It will turn over but doesn't engage the flywheel. Removed starter, and hooked the positive post to my jumper cables and touched the case for ground to see if the starter drive was engaging. The starter acts like it has a dead short in it this way. One of the eyes for the top bolt was also broke away and fell off. Is the way I tested the starter with the jumper cables a proper method to check for engagement of starter drive? I expect the noise I hear from it turning over by key is the housing twisting and the starter drive isn't engaged straight.
Heating / Cooling System Smelling When driving When warm
Q: My heater core appears to be leaking. Can I replace it myself without problems? Is it a simple procedure? I am fairly handy and have replaced several radiators.....
Phil D
phild@ncia.net
A: They are easier than some... should be okay for you..... Ed
Fuel System Won't Start Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I have no power to the fuel pump. I was told it was the fuel pump relay, but I can't seem to locate it. It is supposed to be inside the car up by the drivers side kick pannel. Would you know where this part happens to be located, because I am going crazy trying to find it.
Q: It sounds like a lifter tapping. I only have oil presure when accelerating. I used an engine cleaner and it stopped the tapping for about a week but I think that it may have stopped up my oil pump because I didn't lose oil pressure after it started tapping again. What should I do and where is the oil pump located?
A: The pump is located in the oil pan. Try thicker oil like 20w 50. Sounds like you got a piece of dirt in lifter. Try changing oil at 500 miles after changing it again. It should work.
Q: I HAVE A 1989 BRONCO II V6 4WD IT RECENTLY DEVELOPED A MISS IT WILL DO IT HOT OR COLD IDLING OR GOING DOWN THE ROAD. I HAVE REPLACED PLUGS, WIRES, DISTRIBUTER CAP, ROTOR,FUEL PRESS REGULATOR,TPS SENSOR HAVE ALSO CHECKED FUEL PRESS AND CHECKED ALTERNATOR FOR CHARGING ALL SHOWS FINE I AM ALL TIRED OUT AM THINKING FORD ARE FLEAMARKET VEHICLES PLEASE HELP?
A: the 89 2.9 V-6 engine was made in germany and was never quite right,sounds like you have a head gasket problem,very common on this engine
Q: I recently bought a ford bronco II the truck runs fine ,but when i start it i have great oli pressure,but once it warms up ,when i come to a stop my oil pressure gauge goes to low and I loose power,as long as i'm accelerating the pressure seems fine. when i'm sitting at a stop i can here this clicking noise in the engine,when it clicks,my engine boggs down then my oil pressure drops. could it be the oil pressure switch.or the oil pump?
I bought a oil pressure switch at one of our local part stores but can not fond where it goes at.I'm not a auto man at all and no nothing about them. If i find where it goes can i change it? thank you Jim
A: The problem is not the oil pressure sending unit or the oil pump...that v-6 is notorious for the 5 quarts of oil in the oil pan to be pump throughout the motor and making it last stop up through the push rods from the lifters...the oil is not returning to the bottom of the motor quick enough (to the oil pan and oil pump) there are 4 small drain holes casted through the heads one hole at each end of the head that provide a path for the oil to reach the oil pan and pump...If you have your mechanic or yourself to remove the valve cover and you will see that the drain holes are stopped up somewhat and that causes the ticking because there is very little if any oil to recirculate back through the motor...The previous owner didn't change the oil as often as they should have causing sludge build up. a way to check it is to go out and check the oil in the motor with the engine cold....then start it up and let it start to tick like before...once it starts to make the ticking noise shut the motor off and check the oil..it will be super low if on the dip stick at all...it normally takes 1 minute or less for the ol to drain down...you will notice it takes yours a great deal longer...also I willing to bet that you have oil leaks that seem to be coming from the valve cover gaskets and valve covers...that is because the oil is trapped in the upper part of the engine and starts to saturate the gasket and starts to leak at these points. Let me know if and when this is confirmed...
Thanks,
Dwayne
North Texas
Ignition System Won't Start Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I am trying to replace a pickup module in my 89 bronco II. My problem is getting to it. I have the cap and rotor off but the pickup module lies under a part that I'm having trouble removing.
A: You are refering to the ingition stator,you have to remove the dist.from the vechile,remove the pin that holds the oil pump gear on and then using a press remove the gear,it may be easier to buy a new dist,you will probably have to go aftermarket as I was told ford no longer makes them.Good Luck
Q: My fuel gauge is not working. What do you call the device which is measuring the content of the tank and which is located in the tank itself?
Thanks, George
All Part Groups Won't Start Not applicable Not applicable
Q: As I drove, it keep cutting off. Now it won't start.
We put a new brain in it. It's getting fuel to the pump; it just won't turn over.
Could it be the marjarum near the fuel injector?
A: I think someone is pulling your leg on the Marjarum thing.....
You need to check for a PIP signal from the distributor....... the electronic module in the distributor(usually grey) has a well known history of failure...... Ed
Q: 2WD with 5-spd overdrive manual trans - antilock warning comes on while driving, brakes ok otherwise (warnings, feel, no leaks); Can codes be retrieved or where should I start first. A checklist would be helpful
A: These had problems right from the factory. Start with the codes indicated. Ed
Drive Train / Driveline Making Noise When driving Always
Q: When applying the clutch there is a very loud grinding and rattling kind of sound. And when I release the clutch pedal the noise stops. The shifting has become difficult.
This is a hydraulic clutch system and the fluid, although not full, is still present in the reservoir But the color has somewhat darkened. Your thoughts?
Thanks
Dan
Drive Train / Driveline Other Happens always Always
Q: The clutch was recently replaced and when I recieved it the hydraulic fluid was low infact the reservoir was empty, so they filled it and I left the shop but the clutch is very soft, softer than it has ever been... and now it grabs just about at the floor board where it was about a third of the way up before the work was done.
Is this normal? Could there be air in the line? do these hydraulic clutch assemblies need to be bled like brakes do? Can the clutch be adsjusted to grab at a position I am comfortable with?
Thanks Dan
A: Hydraulic clutches must be bled. Many hydraulic clutches are non-adjustable or self adjusting.
Ignition System Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: when i start up the truck the music,whipers will not work. now the signal light does not work. i can moved the signal light switch and the music and wipers will come on. i have checked all the fuses and they are ok. do i need to replace the ignition switch
A: sounds like bad ground,but if you move the switch and it works could be the switch,
but i would check for loose ground
Drive Train / Driveline Vibration When accelerating Always
Q: I have a 1988 BroncoII.I just got new tires{p235/75/r15},a front alignment and replaced the tierod ends on both sides on the tierods.I have a manual trans. My bronco is a 4x4. My question is that when i shift from 1st to second and then to third gears i have no vibration at all. Then when i shift to fourth gear my whole vehicle seems to vibrate.Especially in the front.The dash,the seats,and the steering. As i move into fifth gear the same thing happens although not any worse than in fourth.Whats my problem? Dee.
Q: I have put a new high quality rebuilt engine, new transmission,in trying to restore this car. It ran great for 5months. Then the engine started sloing down after driving for 10 - 15 mins. There was a lot of black smoke coming out the back that causd the plugs to foulup. I put a new computer, new gas tank and rear gas pump, several new sensors, new injectors and checked for vacuum leaks. It hums while idling but as soon as it goes down the road it dies again. My mechanic has given up. Obviously I can't. Any help would be appreciated. Thx Jim
A: I would check the map sensor,when those are bad the will cause the engine to run rich and dump a lot of smoke.I has a vac line running to it and is mounted on the fire wall with part # of xxx-9B9479-xxx
Q: Hi. The back of my 1987 Ford Bronco II 4WD, is too low( about 2inches).
On a technical paper they say there should be a spacer between the leaf spring & the driveshaft housing.
I don't see any on my car.
Could you tell me how it should be, and where I can find the right parts to put it back up.
Thanks
Gerald
A: Depending on where the spacer goes, it will raise or lower the truck.....
If the spring is under the axle housing, and you add the spacer, it pulls the body - via the leaf spring connections - LOWER......
Opposite if above the housing.... Ed
Ignition System Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: The alternator light comes on and the battery is totally drained after a while. The problem is this goes away after a while and the truck runs fine. Light is off and battery is charging.
Drive Train / Driveline Vibration When accelerating Not applicable
Q: Vibration starts at about 55
if you let off gas it goes away
if you accelerate it comes back.
Someone told me to replace driveline.
Replaced still have problem.
Q: 87 bronco 2 just rebuilt a4ld auto trans new clutch's ect. Drove 150 miles 1234 shift great. started next morning 123 upshift ok but no 4th gear no noise or anything thinking possible shift control solenoid have power to it but no clicking sound. What do you think anything is helpful????
A: The gear is the overdrive, and that is always a problem in these transmissions... Have it pressure checked first..... Ed
All Part Groups Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: When I am driving at around 2000 RPM's the car somtimes chugs and jerks back and forth and sounds like it is going to stall. During this time the RPM spikes and drops between 1500 and 3500 RPM's. What could it be?
A: Could be an engine missfire or crossfire between cylinders.... Ed
Q: Get a bronco from an auction. Once I got it started I noticed anti-freeze coming out of the exhaust. What would cause this and what is the best method of repair? Rebuild or replace engine.
Thanks, John
A: It really depends on the milage of the vechile,your vechile has a 2.9 liter V-6,which when new was junk,the problem is a blown head gasket or cracked head,head gaskets would be about 400-$600,replacement heads about $300 each plus labor,new motor about 1800-$2500,Hope you got it cheap.
I'm having a tranny problem with my '85 Bronco II with A4LD tranny.
Specifically, no first gear from standing start. It feels like it is
trying to go into 1st but doesn't, starts out in 2nd. Have changed
fluid and filter but no joy. Is this a modulator problem? If so, is
the modulator electric? I can't find a vacuum tube for the mod like
you can for a C5 or 6. Can anyone help with this or inform me where
on the 'net I can find a manual (preferably free ).
TIA
A: Not free , but www.alldatadiy.com can be of assistance . Until Dec 31 the price for membership is $19.95 . The first gear problem is either a loose band or a hydraulic switch is not operating properly . Modulator might be at fault , consult the site I mentioned in my opening .
Drive Train / Driveline Making Noise Happens always Always
Q: the transmission is makining a loud clanking noise
A: You need to state weather it is a manual or an automatic and when does it clank. During Shifting up or down, while at a certain speed, only in a certain gear and so on. Describe the problem as fully as possible to get a good diagnosis
Q: The transmission extension housing on my 1985 Ford Bronco II broke into two pieces (4WD 5 speed manual).
Is it possible to weld that piece back together? Thanks. Mike
A: A part from a wrecker is likely less expensive than the welding.........
Try the All-Parts Parts-Finder for this.... Click the blue button under Auto Recyclers.... Ed
Q: My bronco II vibrates heavily any time the engine is on, I have changed the plugs, plug wirs, cap and rotor. Could the vales need adjusting or should I look at rebuilding the carb or is there something else that needs to be done?.....Donovan
A: If you have an automatic trans your flexplate is craking around the crank bolts. Hint.. it is easier to pull engine forward than move trans back!
Chassis / Suspension & Steering Other When turning Always
Q: I am having trouble with my broncos handliong so I am deciding to lower it and i am low on money. What would I do to lower the Ford Bronco II (1985) which are the things I need to be awarke of and what is the correct way of doing it?? if you can answer that a real big Thanx! - CDrom20@yahoo.com
A: Lowering this vehicle is not a good idea . Your handling problem is either the way you are driving it , or a front end problem that needs immediate attention . Do not exceed the limitations of the vehicle . Your Bronco tends to be top heavy to begin with . Lowering it will only lead to more problems and cost more that you seem to have money for the needed parts . If you want speed and manueverability , find an inexpensive sports car or an older sedan from the late 60's and drive that . Just be sure that you have the money for the insurance .
Q: Well guys, the engine in my 1984 Bronco II was fine, until yesterday when I started the car. After 5 minutes, it died.
I just put this one in, a 2.8 remanufactured engine. Next I rebuilt the carburator.
What could be wrong now? Please help me.
A: When you crank the engine over... and the distributor cap is removed, is the rotor turning??
The distribtor has a pin through the shaft that sometimes breaks, then the gear stops turning the shaft.... Ed
All Part Groups Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: What is the routing of the emmissions equipment?
I have a 2.8 v6 manual drive and most of the required equipment is missing,I am trying to put it together so it will pass inspection.
Ignition System Won't Start Happens always Not applicable
Q: I replaced plugs, wires, cap & rotor. When the engine first starts you have to accelerate or it won't idle. At high r.p.m. the motor will just stall. Then a big "bang". I replaced the fuel filter and thought that was doing it, but it still does it. Once I drive it awhile it does fine. But now it won't start at all. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
A: Poor fuel supply and possible choke problems. Ed
Chassis / Suspension & Steering Making Noise When turning Not applicable
Q: Ever since I replaced my steering wheel with Grant wheel, when I turn the steering all the way right or left, I hear a noise like clunk.
I replaced my front end over six months ago, I wonder what is that noise. Can you help me?
A: It's a clearance problem with the Grant wheel. Ed
Windows / Glass Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: I had someone break my back right quarter panel window behind the front passenger seat.
I am having trouble finding a replacement because my window is a "glue in" and all I find are "bolt in's".
Would a window that bolts in fit in mine?
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When starting Not applicable
Q: I recently had a friend put in a 200x4 Rockford Fosgate amp. Now my battery goes dead he said there is a short somewhere, could it be because of the amp? If not, where can the short be?
A: Yes it can..... Check the wiring, and make sure that with the key "off", there's no current flowing. If there is, find out whether its the amp or the wiring causing the short.... Ed
This way to the live technicians