Drive Train / Driveline Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: What is the model on the tranny for the 2001 2.0l dohc ford motors?
A: Transmission Description
The F4E-III automatic transmission is a four speed, front-wheel drive, automatic unit. The F4E-III uses a combination of electronic, hydraulic, and mechanical systems for controlling forward gear shifting, torque converter lockup, and self-diagnosis capability.
Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens always Always
Q: The heater in my Escort is luke warm at best. Last year I remember it being very warm. I do let the engine get warm and even after driving to work it is still luke warm air. The air coming out of the defroster seems warmer than the panel air though. Does it need a new heater core or something else? Thanks
A: If the temperature gauge is at 1/2 of the range when the car is fully warmed up, then yes, the heater core is most likely plugged. But I would be changing the thermostat first. Ed
Chassis / Suspension & Steering Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: I have a severe wandering problem.. car is unstable at highway speeds. worse in ANY wind. outer tierods new & front end recently aligned. ford cannot find the problem.
i have raised the car and looked myself and i cannot see any abnormal play anywhere. tires are wearing normally. possible rack wear?? rear end movement somewhere?? help!
A: Have struts been checked. Wheel bearings? Have you tried a high speed balance.
Heating / Cooling System Other When stopped Always
Q: When I had the AC on and I was stopped in traffic, the car stalled and I had to restart it. I drove the rest of the way home without the AC on (it was a 96 degree day)...I was afraid it would stall again. The only maintenance I have on the car is oil changes. 14 point jiffy lube. Thanks, Pam
A: You didn't indicate if there were any noises associated with the car when it stalled. Squeal? Knocking noise? None? I'm assuming you continued to drive on such a hot day without the A/C because the A/C made a strange noise or something that bothered you.
In your driveway, start the car and let it run for 10 minutes without the A/C and with the hood up. Looking down at forward passenger side of the engine compartment, locate the A/C compressor, it is forward of the engine on the bottom. Have a friend turn on the A/C and see if you can here a "thunk" or "whirl" when the A/C compressor is running. If you can then all should be well. If you hear a squeal or smell smoke then most likely your air conditioning compressor is burned out and the A/C clutch is burning up. I had this happen to me with a '91 Escort Wagon because the A/C shop didn't replace the A/C oil when a hose sprung a leak.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Not applicable Not applicable
Q: Does anyone know where is the location of the cooling fan motor relays of the 95 FORD ESCORT WAGON 1.9 L.
Yep! I had to locate them on a '91 and it was a pain trying to find them. But not to worry, I finally did! Open the hood and locate the engine circuit breaker box, unbolt it and lift it up, the cooling fan motor relays are located UNDER it! Go figure eh?
A word of caution... I THOUGHT my relays were failing, replaced them, and the fan *still* didn't come on. It turned out that my cooling fan motor had burned up to the point of melting the bearings in it. Got a replacement for about $50.00 Try disconnecting the cooling fan motor where it plugs into the harness (drivers side on the back side of the radiator) and jumper it directly to the battery. If the fan comes on then the relays are bad, otherwise the fan motor itself is bad.
Q: when idleing the vehicle runs good when accelerating the vehicle cuts out also when the vehicle is in gear and stopped it idles very ruff just changed the spark plugs wires look good can't find were the fuel filter is located on the car.
A: fuel filter is located on the fire wall on the drivers side
Q: Surges always in park and in nuetral, and also a rattling in the engine compartment.
A: Two questions for you.....
What kind od rattle???... high pitched... tinny..... glass kinda tinkling.... squeaky????
And in relation to the surging... is the check engine light on???....
If not then just clean the Idle air control motor plunger and channel...
All Part Groups Vibration When stopped Not applicable
Q: This question is about the hatchback model.
When the vehicle is stopped at a traffic light, the hatchback lid rattles at the top area near the hinges. The rattle ceases when the brake is released. How do I stop the rattle?
A: I think the exhaust pipe is touching somewhere and transfering through the body. Ed
Q: The driver's side shoulder belt is stuck between A and B positions, around the curve to the back of the door frame. The passenger belt is also stuck. Turning the key only produces a small click on the passenger side from under the dash. There was a whirring that I imagine is the seat belt motor turning but not doing anything. I had to disconnect the connection behind the round plate in front of the back seat to stop the sound. At this point I'm not sure if this is a problem with the seat belt sensors or the starter--I'm inclined to think it's the seatbelt sensor but I don't know for sure that it has an effect on the starting system.
A: Seems to be the seatbelt track has a problem. It's only allowing the seat belt to travel part way. The signal for the belts is from the ignition switch in the "start and run" position. Also, there is a weight sensor in the seat. Ed
Q: rattling sound coming from the left of the engine near the belts--inside a plastic casing
A: If the "plastic casing" you are talking about is round at the top, then it is your timing belt housing.
The noise could be the belt coming apart,the idler pully,tensioner pully, or water pump.
You'll have to take the belt cover off to find out which one it is.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always
Q: Hello, my driver-side seat belt dosent work.
There are times I don't have a problem with it, but now it's stuck open.
What do you think the problem is? Is it the motor?
A: If this is one of those automatic ones, yes possibly....
If this is the normal kind that you would pull out to connect, it's probably the spring assembly inside - not repairable usually.....
Find a used one and just replace the complete unit.... Ed
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always
Q: Electric windows dont work, fuse is not blown. Don't know which relay is for the electric windows!
A: i have a 1989 mercury sable
same thing just happened to me
i have noticed a fusible link is melted
i am going to try that first
my car has been sittting foe a few months
was hoping it was just corrosion
find any good diagrams?
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When starting Always
Q: When I push my clutch all the way down to the floor my car starts with out turning the key. (I had the neutral safety switch replaced.) On the dash board the brake and fuel cut out switch always remain lit but there is no other dashboard light (even with the head lights on).
A: You definitely have a wiring problem . The clutch pedal is grounding the wire that puts a ground on the starter to allow it to operate . Neuatral switch is only there to prevent starting in a gear other than neutral . For the dashboard , similar problem , there is a wiring problem . It is most likely a bad ground point or wire .
Fuel System Malfunction When accelerating Not applicable
Q: The car runs like it is not getting any gas or the fuel filter is pluged, I replaced the filter last year.
I found what I think is a Vacuum line that looks like it had been rubbing on a pulley or belt and it was coverd in grease.
I had the oil changed about 1 month ago.Is it possible that they could have moved this line and if so where does it go??
A: There is an underhood sticker that shows where all the vacuum lines go. If,(you didn't give engine size, 1.8 or 1.9 litre), your car has a (MAP) sensor, this could very well be your problem.
Q: I have a 91 ford escort gt. It is a spare car for the family and has been sitting for about 6 months without being driven. I climbed in it the other day and it wouldn't start. It acted like it wasn't getting enough power. It won't even turn over. So I charged the battery and tried it again. Nothing. I turned on the radio and all the internal electrical stuff works, but when I turn the key the radio shuts off, and when I release the key it comes back on. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
It sounds like your battery has "sulfated" from sitting so long. Even though it "appears" to have taken a charge, it is probably too weak to start the car. If you must store a car this long, remove the battery and charge it periodically.
Now on to some troubleshooting! Using even the old battery, attempt to jump start it using jumper cables connected to another vehicle and let the "donor" car run for about 5 minutes charging the "dead" battery, then try and start it. If it does the same thing (dim lights, no starter action), then it may be that either the starter has gone bad (corrosion). The "dim" lights indicate that the starter solenoid is working (delivering power to the starter), but the starter isn't turning. If you hear a "clunk" when trying to engage the starter then you may have a problem with the engine being "seized" from sitting so long with possible moisture in the cylinders. NEVER let *any* car sit for more than a month without at least starting the engine for 15-20 minutes each month.
Interior Components Other Happens sometimes Not applicable
Q: Water goes into front passenger footwell during heavy rain when the car is parked on a slight slope, ie the car is leaning slightly to that side. How can I stop the water?
A: The the low spot on the cover for the passenger cabin air intake is directly above the air intake port. Water drips in and down through the event on to the passenger's feet. Remove the cover (you'll have to remove the wiper arms and lower windshield trim first), strip away the old leaky weatherstripping, and use roof patch tar in a caulk tube applied liberally to the inside edge to re-seal.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: Red engine light comes on. Not the yellow check engine light. Car seems to run fine is this a routine maintenance light?
A: No! This indicates that there is a major (or soon to be major) problem with the engine. Some causes could be low coolant, high engine temp, low (or no) oil pressure or a computer failure. Bring it into your local garage ASAP so that they can scan the computer to find the reason for the fault. This is definitely not normal.
Q: I have an 89 Escort GT and where the catylitic converter attaches to another part on the exhaust pipe there are 2 hoses that connect them and the left one is gone i need to know what the name of that part is, please
A: Neil,you are describing the down stream air supply hose for the catalytic converter.
Q: I wrote yesterday about my car cutting off when it reaches a certain temperature. I said that someone told me that fuel wasn't going through the carburetor? after a time. Someone suggested today that it may be trash in my tank because the car sat for 2 months before it ran? Can you please give me an answer. How do I get my answer, through email or this web site?
A: Michelle, after two months of non use I would not suspect the fuel system.
After reaching certain temperature if vehicle cuts off as if you turn the key off it may be the ignition module or magnetic pickup in the distributor. If after 20-30 minute cool down car restarts the aforementioned items need more specific/individual diagnosis.
If your vehicle has a mechanical fuel pump check the fuel pump push rod, a common problem on high mileage escort's. The push rod should have a beveled edge on both ends, if one edge is flat and the other is beveled/tapered then the rod is worn and the carb is running out of fuel. Check at your local Ford dealer with a senior technician to verify. email@example.com
Q: At first when it ran hot, it would cut off. Got a new thermostat, doesn't run hot anymore but still cuts off. Changed the fuel filter and it still cuts off. My friend thinks that it may be electrical. He says that when the car is a little hot (running a long time) no gas goes through, I don't know what it is but I think its, the carburator. It mostly tries to cut off when I am at a stop sign or stop light.
A: Michelle, does your car start up after it stalls? If so you may have a malfuntion in the EGR valve. On the back of the carb you will see a round brass colored solenoid with one wire coming out of the back of solenoid. This is the idle fuel shutoff solenoid. Check the connector on the firewall, it may be loose or corroded.
Another area is the vacuun system. Any leak will cause the engine to stall at idle/stops.
Also have the ignition module and magnetic pickup checked. These are temperature sensative items. RP
Q: As soon as I start to accelerate, it delays a long time before it starts to move. It sounds like I have the car in neutral then shift into drive. Also, it feels as if I keep tapping on the brake when I maintain a speed.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: Where is the engine cooling fan temperature switch on a 1988 escort?
A: It should be on the drivers side of the engine, on a metal tube with several other sensors (plug side of sensor will point to the drivers side of the car). Look at the drivers side of the intake manifold, just aft of the distributor module.
Q: Engine is blowing blue when revved, upon acceleration after coasting and under acceleration when leaving stop line. Pulled plus and see no real evidence of oil; control failure, but oil consumption is high. Approx 1 qt. per 2-3 days.
You didn't indicate how many miles you had on the car. Any car burning oil in this manner indicates that somehow or another, oil is getting into the exhaust by some means. To name a few: Worn piston rings, holed piston(s), leaky valve guides and/or valve guide oil seals, or even a cracked cylinder head.
Have you checked your spark plugs, not just for oil, but also for carbon fouling? If the ignition system is in really good shape it could very well burn the oil off the plugs. One check for this would be to warm up the engine,turn it off, pull the plugs, crank the engine for about 30 seconds (NO LONGER!), stop and swab around inside the cylinder with extra-long cotton swabs (available from a drug store). If oil is on the swabs then that would indicate leakage past the rings or a bad valve guide seal.
Q: You can see the fuel cone from the injector when idling. Approx. every 5-10 seconds you'll see a sputter in the cone and the RPM's drop about 400. When you drive it, it chuggs, spits and sputters and you have to radically pump the gas peddle to keep it going. I replaced the fuel pump and it fixed it for a day or two, but it's doing it again. I checked the fuel pressure and got a reading of 14.5. PLEASE HELP.
A: Ford had a problem with certain injector on the cfi engine,if you replace it replace it with one from ford
Q: I think its the fuel system that is my problem.
It starts when I go to start the car after it has had time to cool down.
It won't stay started unless constant pressure is put on the gas for about 3 or 4 minutes, during which time thick smoke comes out of the exhaust pipe.
After those few minutes, it will stay idling by itself and the smoke goes away. While driving it will kick and chug during gear change, and then be okay.
What does it sound like might be the problem?
A: Black smoke? Rich mixture. Injector is leaking down, injector is grounded, fuel pressure regulator.. egr valve hanging open.
Pull the vacuum line to regulator, is it wet with fuel? If so replace regulator.