Q: I have about 280k miles on my 1992 Explorer. How long will it last? It has never had a tune-up. The plugs won't come out.. they are rusted to the block. What should do?
A: Well the truck has lasted long enough. If you don't drive the truck everyday, try spraying bust a nut on it. That is the name of the product. Then use an impact gun on the plugs. if it breaks, you will have to carefully drill them out. DO NOT drill out the threads or you will have to replace the heads.
A: 98/99 Explorer had a problem with rear wipers from day one--some would not come on at all and some would come on by themselves--Motor replacement is most likely the cure, but when you replace rear motor on that vehicle you MUST replace rear arm and blade.Take your vehicle ID number to your local FORD dealer and let them check to see if any recalls are open on it. You might get lucky.
Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I have a 1998 Ford Explorer and my CHECK ENGINE light is always on. I also noticed that my heater blows LUKE WARM. I would think it blow HOTTER than that. I even let the ENGINE run for a while but my heater is still LUKE WARM. ALSO my TEMP GAUGE on the dash is always on cold. It never moves. Is all this related and if so, what could be the trouble THEMOSTAT or HEATING CORE????or something else..thanx plz reply by email: firstname.lastname@example.org
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens sometimes Not applicable
Q: A few weeks ago my power windows stopped working on my 1998 Explorer.
At the same time, the 4WD HI & 4WD LO lights on the dash would flash 6 times and repeat every 60 seconds.
The next day, the windows started working and the lights stopped flashing. Then it started all over again. Every day or two it happens again. Please help.
1998 Ford Explorer, 6 cyl 4.0 SOHC
A: Could be a possible short in the electrical system (a wire being grounded or crossing another wire) or maybe just a faulty fuse. Try replacing the fuse used for the power windows and see if that helps, if not drop me a line.
Q: I've read that you should disconnect the battery every so often to clear the performance memory of the computer- get better performance.
Is this true for the '98 SOHC as well? If so, how do I do it?
A: This is true. However, the motor may run sluggishly for the first couple of miles while the ECM is resetting itself.
To do this, disconnect the negative battery cable for about 30 seconds to a minute.
Reconnect it then run the motor for about 2 or 3 miles in stop and go type driving.
All Part Groups Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: The 4 wheel drive indicator light flashes three times periodically and at low speeds it sounds as if the 4 wheel drive is being engaged. Sound is similar to driving in 4 wheel drive on dry pavement.
A: First check that the switch may be loose... or perhaps the solenoid connection is damp inside... Ed
Q: The check engine light is on and stays on. I recently had the O2 sensor replaced from the last time the light came/stayed on. Is there a procedure to find codes to determine what is wrong?
A: It's hard to tell exactly what's wrong when a check engine light comes on. This light comes on when any of the various engine sensors are not feeling well. If you got a new O2 sensor then check the map sensor and the EGR valve. It could even be that you haven't changed the air filter in a while. The map sensor freaks out when an air filter is clogged. Sometimes a temperature sensor is to blame. Also some systems have to have the codes cleared after replacing a part like the O2 sensor you changed. If you can get your hands on one of those hand held computers, you can plug in to see a list of codes which correspond with trouble codes sent by the various sensors. Also,I've had people tell me just to disconnect the battery for about a day or so then plug it back up and drive it with the lights on. This has helped some people, but often there's more to it than that.
Heating / Cooling System Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: It seems the climate control gets confused from time to time. The real problem has just started. When the vent is activated even when the temp control is set to 60 degrees, very hot air blows out. Probably not related, but the "key in the ignition" alert does not sound anymore and it seems that these two problems started about the same time.
Thanks in advance for any answer you can supply
A: I personally do not see the relationship between the two. Sounds like a mixing door is sticky. Ed
Q: I stopped my ford and now it will not start again. You can turn the key and hear the starter put there is not compression in the engine. Is this the camshaft problem that the ford explorer has? Do you know if there is a recall on this item from ford. The dealership where are car is said that it could be and they want to replace the engine and they want us to pay $$$ for it. If it is a recall shouldn't ford cover this?
A: Search the internet for recalls. Try lemonaide cars.com
Electrical / Lighting Systems Other Happens always Always
Q: power windows, map lights,front and rear window wipers and door chimes operate for only 5 to 10 minutes when #25 fuse is removed and after 10 seconds it is replaced.
After approx 10 minutes you will hear a click under the dash and then none of the above items will operate untill #25 fuse is removed and replaced again.
This keeps repeating.
A: These use a sophisticated module for controls. They are not cheap. Diagnosis is very detailed. You will need to buy a factory repair manual ($100-ish), alldata subscription ($25), plus diagnostic equipment to repair.
Or have shop diagnose problem. Then you can repair at your own discretion.
Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: When driving in normal conditions the 4WD light and 4 low lights in the dash blink 6 times. This happens every 2 minutes or so. I manually switched into 4 low and it didn't seem to change the gear ratio so I am assuming that I also no longer have 4WD at all, it is hard to tell on dry pavement. Any ideas on what is wrong?
A: It sounds like there's an issue with the electronic cicuit that actuates the 4 wheel drive. The blinking is most likely a code (similar to the check engine light codes). Call up the service dept. of your local dealer and ask them what the six flashes means, I think you'll find the actuators done.
Q: when idleing the RPM's drop down low and almost stalls and then jumps back up.
A: hey. i have a 92 cadillac seville. when im idleing, the rpm drops very low as if my car wants to lose power. while im driving at low speeds from about 10-40, the car is also doing the same. its like im losing power while im driving for a split second and then picks backs up. but it does it continually. its kind of like a chug or something.
Q: I have a 1996 Ford Explorer with a 6 cylinder, 4.0 liter engine with 105,000 miles on it. The check engine light has been coming on intermittently so I checked the code reader and the computer gave me a code of p1507 which is an idle air control underspeed error. What do you think would be causing this problem?? What can I do to fix it?? Thanks!!!!
A: Check the connection to the idle air control valve first. If that does not help you should replace the unit.
Exhaust System Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: 1996 Ford Explorer XLT, 5.0L V8, 125k. The MIL light was on so I had my Ford dealer diagnose it ($95). He said it needs 2 of the 4 O2 sensors replaced ahead of the two catalytic converters. I bought the two sensors. I was able to install the one on the right side. Although the sensor on the left pipe can be removed, I can't reach up above the transmission housing and inbetween the exhaust pipes to remove the O2 sensor connector. Is a special tool required? Does the exhaust pipe have to be dropped? Does the interior console have to be removed and an access cover removed to gain access to the connector? Neither my Ford service manuals nor the Chilton book say how to do this.
A: I believe you have to drop the front pipe of the exhaust to get to the other O2 sensor
Q: I am having a problem with a very high pitched sound coming from my MAF sensor when in idle.
The sound only occurs after it is warm and I start it after 10-15 min. The sound will go away after a few min. or if revs are up over 1100 RPM.
I have pulled the sensor and cleaned it with carb cleaner and checked the entire MAF body for any restrictions.
A: The problem is in the air control valve after they get some age they sometimes make a hooting sound.
Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When driving Always
Q: I have a '95 Ford Explorer with what appears to be the transmission having trouble shifting...
The problem was intermittant at first and the dealer couldn't see the problem to fix it.
But, I've since learned there is a direct relationship between running the air conditioner and the gears acting like they are "racing" before they finally do shift, although it does this occasionally without the a/c running too.
It is a very noticeable and constant problem now. What should I tell the mechanic to check when I take it back in? Thank you!
A: I would have the codes checked, if no codes I would check the trans pan to see if it has metal in it
Q: There's a rattling noise under the car. I'm not sure it's the exhaust, but it might be. How can I locate and stop the noise?
A: One of the most common problems is the heat sheild under the catalytic convertor rattling or vibrating..... that's a tinny buzzing metallic sound....
If it's not the convertor being loose, have someone shake the exhaust around by the tail pipe while you listen carefully ....Ed
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving Always
Q: Why does the check engine light come on when driving? I've done all I can do. I am being told it's the cam shaft sensor. What do you think?
A: Who's telling you it's the cam shaft sensor?
The dealer? If so, that's their job (interpreting the computer).
Most dealers have litle incentive to lie to you, and a lot to lose if they get caught. They make their money selling you the car, not fixing it.
So I would trust the dealer. Bill
Ignition System Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: When driving my 94 Ford Explorer, the vehicle will shut off. It dies completely. Not like it is out of fuel, but it seems that the ignition is turned off.
The vehicle must sit for about 5-10 minutes before it will start. If you try to start before this time has elapsed the vehicle will just turn over, never attempting to start.
Chassis / Suspension & Steering Malfunction When turning Not applicable
Q: Truck pulls to the right hard. we had new tires put on and not long after that we started having this problem. now it just seems to be getting worse.
it will actually make a clucking sound and pull hard, the thing is it doesn't happen all the time only after we make a left hand turn then it just wants to drive to the right all the time.
A: First try having the alignment checked.
A good mechanic will usally notice any ball joint/ linkage problems while preforming this.
A: Either the fuel sending unit is bad (located in the tank) or you have a wiring fault. If the sending unit is bad then you will have to drop the tank, pull the sending unit, and replace it.
If all of your other guages are working then I would be hard-pressed to thing that the guage itself was bad.
Good luck and happy motoring!
Q: MY EXPLORER BEGAN TO HESITATE WITH THE COLDER WEATHER.I WOULD APPLY STEADY PRESSURE TO ACCELERATOR, BUT ENGINE WAS HESITATING. AFTER IT WARMED UP AWHILE IT WAS OK. IT HAS 98,000 MILES BUT HAS GOTTEN ALL MAINTENANCE SINCE IT WAS NEW.
MECHANIC TOLD ME IT NEEDED NEW BATTERY AND PLUG WIRES.$400.00. IT THEN FAILED TO START ON A COLD MORNING. I HAD IT TOWED BACK TO MECHANIC. HE TOLD ME IT WAS A FAULTY CAM SENSOR. $600.00
IT STILL DOES NOT RUN RIGHT AND STLL HESITATES WHEN COLD THE SAME EXACT WAY IT DID BEFORE I SPENT THE $1,000.00.
IF IT HAD BEEN A CAM SENSOR, WOULDN'T THE "CHECK ENGINE LIGHT" HAVE BEEN COMING ON ? (IT WASN'T)
QUESTION TWO: DOESN'T THIS SOUND MORE LIKE AN EXHAUST RESTRICTION PROBLEM LIKE A BAD CATALYTIC CONVERTER.
A: Did anyone check the fuel pump/filter? I have seen this happen before.When cold,an engine needs more fuel,and a restricted filter,bad pump would not flow enough.Did it also bog on hard accel?I assume you have no codes in the ECM.Sometimes the easy stuff gets overlooked.
Ignition System Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: How do I remove the key cylinder?
A: I am assuming your talking about the ingnition key,unhook battery,turn key to run ther should be a small hole on the underside of the column below the switch,take a pick and push up and pull switch out
Electrical / Lighting Systems Other Happens always Always
Q: My fuel gage does not work. It shows empty at all times.
Cruise control does not work. The buttons are on the steering wheel.
My heater is not working. I just had my water pump and thermostat replaces and the radiator flushed.
A: check ALL of your fuses under the dash. it could also be the fuel sending unit in the gas tank, but not likley
Q: My ABS light is on, and the pedal goes to the floor, and have to pump the brakes to get any pedal. What would cause that?
All of the pads and shoes look good along with the calipers and brake lines. And there is sufficient fluid in the master cylinder resevoir.
A: Sounds a lot like the master cylinder itself is malfunctioning or bypassing internally......
Needs replacement... Ed
Q: It surges but never dies. I've been told it could be the brain.
A: If you remove the idle air control motor and clean both the piston tip assembly of the motor, and the channel that it fits into.... then re-install the motor....
Disconnect the battery for about a minute (negative cable)... this should fix the problem.... Ed
Q: ABS light comes on while driving. It goes off when engine turned off. It may take anywhere from 10-20 minutes to come back on after restarting engine. I get a 536 code when it is checked. What needs to be replaced or fixed.
A: I do not have the code match information with me. Your local library should have that info. for you. Ed
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Not applicable Not applicable
Q: When i have the ac on and put the transmission in drive a 15 amp fuse blows instantly. I lose my heater/ac blower, turn signals, back up lights, and rear window defroster. Where is the short and how do i fix it.
A: Get a wiring diagram and start tracing the circuit(s) with an ohmsmeter.
Between no 2 point in the wiring should the meter read infinity.
In order to test relays and such, they should usually be actuated while testing. While they are actuated, they should not read infinity.
All Part Groups Won't Start Happens sometimes When warm
Q: I drive my explorer for about 45 minutes, turn it off. I come back to it after about 15 minutes, try to start it and it coughs and sputters then cuts off.
I try to start it and it won't, it cranks but won't start. The fuel pump, filter, plugs, and cables are 6 months old.
Relays and fuses work properly.
After 2 hours of not starting, it turns on like nothing ever happened. Any suggestions?
A: Hrmmm. Could be a few things, tho almost uassuredly is a fuel based complication. I did a quick search, but could not determine if this model and make are EFI or carb based. Please post some more specific info on your vehicle, and I will be a bit more specific on what to try.
Also in your post, please let me know if the afore mentioned 6 month old parts were certified mechanic replaced or not, and any other small or seemingly unimportant irregularities you may have noticed in the last 3 months...
As both a mechanic and a computer/network tech (and I am sure any others of such vocations will silently chuckle to themselves and agree wholeheartedly), without seeing the actual vehicle/system, all I have to go on is what you have observed and can tell me. The greater the volume of info you can give me, the more specific I can be in return...
Exhaust System Making Noise When driving Not applicable
Q: I have a housing around part of my exhaust system on the undercarriage, and i need to know what it is called.
It has broken and now makes a rattling sound when turning/ braking, and going in reverse.
A: I believe you are talking about the catlytic convertor covering...
They are spot-welded and the welds break away....
If you can re-attach in some manner, great...
If not... break it off..
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: All of the electrical power is gone. It happened all at once. There was no power drain like the battery dying. I checked the battery and it has plenty of power. There are no dash lights, no dome light, no clicking when I turn the key, etc. Everything is completely dead. The only thing I can think of is some kind of a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker. Is there a fuse in the main power line from the battery to the Power Distribution Box that could cause such an overall outage?
A: Need to get test light out to see if any power is in distribution box. There is no curcuit breakers that will cause this. Check grounds very carefully.
Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When driving When cold
Q: My 1992 Explorer with the three speed auto with overdrive is having a hard time shifting out of first when it is cold. I pulled the pan and installed a new filter with new fluid. Is it time to put in a rebuilt Tranny? The car has 150,000 miles, is rarely used to tow, and does not go off road. Thanks
A: Randy,you do not indicate if the shifting improves after vehicle reaches operating temperature. Allow the explorer to warm up 10 to 15 minutes then check your shift points.
If the shift improves your problem will be hardened seals that become soft after warm up.
If problem persists when warm, it may be the governor or valve body. Both are hydraulic control units with close tolerance valves that
can stick after long use/high mileage.
Q: My wipers run on high only. Would it be the motor or switch?
A: I think your problem lies in your switch since your motor runs on the high speed setting, unless when it did run on the lower speeds it made noise.
But if not, I whould have to say that it is the switch.
Q: I have a 1992 explorer sport 4 wheel drive automatic. There is a sort of rumbling noise somewhere everytime i turn left or right and accelarate at the same time.
Also I hear it when im pulling a load more frequently.
It almost seems like it's also dragging the brakes while it's doing it please help?
A: Try changing the fluid in the transfer case dirty fluid has caused this before
Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: 1992 3 speed auto w/odrive has a hard time shifting out of first when it's cold and warm.
I had the transmission rebuilt last year in Oct 2000. What is wrong now? I had it check and the mechanic stated its probably an electrical shifting problem?
A: Check the shifter adjustment as the valves in the valve body aren't in the proper position to allow the hydraulic pressure to flow properly.
All Part Groups Other Happens always Not applicable
Q: The noise I hear is a clicking noise. More of a rattling sound when the car is running.
We think it needs a new tail pipe, from the muffler-back.
I was checking cost to fix, and what type of part I need.
A: Your local jobber has the pictures, descriptions and prices for you. The All-Parts system would also enable you to request the parts by using the Blue "Buyers" Button to the left of this screen. Ed
Q: Actually after reading some of your site I have two questions:
1: The engine makes a loud ticking sound when its cold, once warmed up it stops. It sounds like its a valve problem or something else under the valve covers. I read on your site "Change the tensioner right and left side. Also a new guide is req for both the right left hand side". Is this the likely cause? I don't think my enginer is SOHC.
2: My wipers only work on high, according to the Haynes electrical diagram the likely culprit is the "interval wiper module". However it doesn't say where to find it! The dealership told me that this unit resides in the limb off the steering column. I cannot belive this as the unit would need to be too big. Can you advise before I tear everything apart! Thanks.
A: The ticking may also be caused by the engine lifters. Take the serpentine belt off and start the engine..if the noise is still there then probably the lifters. The wiper timer is a small electronic unit that could fit almost anywhere. Ed
All Part Groups Vibration When accelerating Always
Q: when I accelerat the front of the car begins to shake not the steering but the body you feel it in gas pedal, steering wheel the dash begine to shake it starts to happen about 30mph and gets whorse the faster you go.
When you let of the gas and coast the vibration goes away nice smooth ride push the gas it starts to shake again.
A: Needs a good tune up. Sounds like you have a bad wire or plug. One cylinder is not firing.
Q: Vibrates at 40 mph, I heard a constant knocking/chugging sound (at any speed), and there is a slight smell of burning rubber in the engine area after 10 minutes of driving. My mechanics suggests that gas is leaking into the oil, and that I may need to replace the entire engine/motor. Hard to diagnose over the net, but does that sound reasonable/common?
A: No, not at all reasonable/common. Get to another mechanic and who will perform proper diagnostics. Give new mechanic all details.
Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When driving Not applicable
Q: My 1991 ford explorer is not shifting from 3rd to 4th gear. i've had it checked out a couple of times but they can't seem to figure it out. they've replaced the trans fluid, filter, 3-4 solenoid, lock-up solenoid, checked the wires coming to and going from the transmission as well as possible. It shifts fine in the other gears and a couple of times a week it will shift into 4th, usually that happens when i'm going about 60 mph. is my transmission shot!?!? i would really like to know what to do!
A: When the explores came out, ford as usual built bad transmissions for the suv. Most times these transmisions only lasted 60-70,000 miles, and this was written buy ford that they would need to be replaced at about that milage. I personally have replaced several tranys on that suv ranging from 50-89,000 miles.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always
Q: blower fan for the heat in the truck isn't working. checked fuses, fuses perfect
A: Check for battery voltage at fan switch connector.
With fan switch on high, check for battery voltage at fan motor connection.
Check ground wire and connection with ohm meter, should read 0.50 between ground wire and ground point on body.