Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens sometimes Not applicable
Q: Heater does not work sometimes warm sometimes cold.
A: There may be 2 scenarios for this question and the reason I say this is because I'm not sure which kind of vent system you have.
A vaccuum controlled system controls the little doors that open and close when you switch from hot to cold on your panel.
A cabled or mechanical system controls those same doors by way of cables.
On vacuum controlled systems, make sure that there are no cracked or broken vacuum lines leading to and from the engine and the heater door servo. (Servo is a vaccuum controlled "hinge" for opening and closing little vent doors)
On cable controlled systems, make sure that there are no broken cables or any cables that are loose on their fittings or don't seem to stay in place when you try to move the lever on the panel.
Notice that both of them, however, use the same basic concept of using these doors or vent "valves" to direct and redirect air away from the heat source. So really finding the problem involves hunting down the little doors and seeing which one is not opening or closing properly. After you find that then look for the control for that door. If there is a cable, then you know you have a cable set up.
If you see a hose connected to a servo (weird looking thing) then thats a vacuum system.
It is usually very obvious once you get this far. Something will show signs of failing.
Chassis / Suspension & Steering Vibration When starting Not applicable
Q: It's a 4x4 Off Road.
When starting off slowly, especially when I am making a turn, I feel a kinda of bumpy vibration.
It doesn't seem to do it much, if at all, when I accelerate going straight forward.
I have recently checked the tire pressure in all tires.
Does this sound like a suspension, or drivetrain problem?
If anyone has an idea what this may be, I would appreciate it.
A: If this is in 4 wheel drive when this happens.... and especially if the front differential is a power lock or posi trac type, it is the clutch pacs in the differential trying to have both wheels turn at the same rate... Ed
Q: F-150, v-6, 1997. Only happens after driving for 20 minutes on highway. I take exit ramp, come to a stop and I notice my oil guage fluctuating back and forth. If I put it in park (automatic tran) or neutral it goes back steady to its normal position. Engine is running fine when this happens, no warning lights and oil level is fine and it goes to normal when I excellerate. Could this be a belt slipping?
A: Nope. And I bet you are using 5w30 or 10w30 engine oil? Use a good quality 10w40 engine oil and see if it makes a difference. Ed
Q: When I Step on the accelerater The truck seems to Hesitate and chugs a little. It started all of a sudden and I am not sure if it is a Fuel Problem or a Transmission problem. Can you let me know what might be causing it.
Q: My truck is making a LOUD knocking noise when idling. Still starts on first try, but haven't driven it since knocking started (scared to do more damage).
However, when loading it on a car hauler, started it and drove it onto the trailer. When under load, the knocking stops.
Knocking started at body shop when dropped it to fix minor damage from over a year ago on front fender. They called after 10 days, told us truck was having engine problems. Won't give any info about what was going on when this started.
Can you give me any idea what this might be? About to throw a rod??? Any ideas will help.
A: Hmm...how does your oil pressure look? If the knocking is only at very low RPMs as you described, your oil pump may be failing and only suppying enough oil at higher RPMs.
Q: 1996 F-150, 4.9liter, manual tranny: switching from rear tank to front tank, engine behaves as though starved for fuel. According to guage, tank is full.
It sounds like the electric fuel selector mounted to the left frame rail just in front of the forward fuel tank. It is an "always open in one direction" type and even though your fuel gauge shows full, it might have an open coil winding in the motor that moves from one tank to the next. This item cost me $140. from Ford, but you probably can find it cheaper if you look around. The only one that will work is one exactly like what is OEM from Ford.
Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction Not applicable Not applicable
Q: While truck was idling, the truck dumped all the transmission fluid(like being poured from a bucket)out of the bellhousing. The fluid was very airrated???(lots of air bubbles)There was no prior warning. No noise, no indication other than the sound of the fluid pouring onto pavement. By the way this is an A40D. After checking out, there were no visible signs of any damage to the converter, front pump seal and the only a small amount of rubber(?)and a white hard plastic shavings laying in the bottom of the bellhousing. I know there is a problem with the transmission. I am unsure as to whether or not a total rebuild would be necessary?? The transmission seems to be working and unharmed after this happened. Does anybody have any information that could help me out with this.
A: This is a warning that ford transmissions give when they are going bad and need to be replaced. You can keep driving for now and when it gets worse it will dump the fluid again and more often. If it does it again plan for a rebuilt. Jasper transmissions and engines do great rebuilds and have great warrenties and they do stand behind their rebuilds. If you are willing to change the trany yourself. Or ask your mechanic for him to buy from Jasper. When you change the trany opt for the larger cooler.
Drive Train / Driveline Making Noise Happens always Not applicable
Q: There's a squeak, or high pitched grinding noise, when I push the clutch in. It seems to be coming from the transmission housing. The trans shifts fine and does not slip. But I do have 103K miles on it. Is it time for a new clutch, or could it be something else? This happens hot or cold and all the time.
A: THAT MANY MILES I WOULD CHANGE THE CLUTCH THE PROBLEM IS PROBABLY THE PILOT BEARING SO YOUR GOING TO HAVE TO PULL THE TRANS ANYWAY I WOULD CHANGE THEM AND CHECK THE FLYWHEEL FOR SURFACE CRACKS
its most likeley the throwout bearing. it the bearing that pushes in on the pressure plate fingers to relase the disk...
Q: We have new rotors and new pads. The truck is making a tapping sound until you apply brake, then it stops. Let off the brake pedal and it returns. Also new calipers. Driver side will make a loud pop sound sometimes when you release the pedal.
A: You need to tighten the brake pad tabs to the caliper. Also, lubricate the pins through the calipers for sliding. Ed
Q: The pickup smells funny, I was told it smells like the catalytic convertor is plugged.
I was also told that the reson that I have replaced the exhaust manifold twice (it was cracked) was because the catalytic convertor is probably plugged and is causing restriction, and the exhaust manifold is heating up more than usual because of it...
The pickup does get poor mileage, but It is also in need of other tuneups that could affect the mileage greatly also. (like the timing being out)
1) Can i tell if the catalytic covertor is plugged before taking it off?
2) It seems to be ALL ONE PIECE from where it attaches to the exhause manifolds, to where it enters the pipe (the pipe that enters the muffler)...
Does this all have to be replaced?(it all looks to be welded together, and the welds look original (or at least professionally done - very nice welds)
can I just cut the weld between the "y" and the catalytic convertor?
3) Can I just replace the catalytic convertor with a straight pipe? Catalytic convertors are not required by law here, and I heard that it would improve mileage, and (obviously) would be a lot cheaper than replacing the catalytic convertor...
4) or.. could I remove it, and remove the innards, then put it back?
Any help will be greatly appreciated, Thanks! :-)
A: if you haven limited the convert ok.If you havent than drive the truck at night a mile or 2 .than raise the hood check exhaust from eng.to see if exhaust is red.If red convert is stoped up. YES CONVERT CAN BE WELDED BACK ON.I SUGGEST THAT YOU ALSO CHECK YOUR INTAKE FOR BLOCKAGE. HOPE YOU USE GOOD OIL.TO CHECK THAT TAKE OFF VALVE COVER. EXCESS HEAT FROM CLOGED CONVERT WILL BREAK DOWN LOW GRADE OILS. QUESTION 4)YOU WILL HAVE TO ANSWER THAT ONE. IT HELPS TO WHAT SIZE ENG.WE ARE TALKING ABOUT. (OK)
Chassis / Suspension & Steering Other When turning When warm
Q: I have a 93 ford f150 4x4 pickup, everytime I make a turn, right or left I have to manually return the wheel to the straight position. I am not leaking any fluid from the power steering pump. Could this be the gear box and if so can they be rebuilt or do I have to purchase a new one?
A: its eaither a gear box, pitman arm, idler arm,or not enough caster. i recomend getting a 4 wheel alighnment first. then cheking the sterring componits. and yes you can rebuild a gear box but it will be cheaper just to buy one, allthough i don't think the gearbox is the problem.
Exhaust System Upgrade Not applicable Not applicable
Q: Ok I am currently working on my 1992 Ford f-150's exhaust, I am upgrading the stock exhaust to duel pipes.
I have been hearing many diffrent things about what is legal and what isn't.
I was told that I couldn't run headers with two seperate pipes and two seperate cats, that the pipes had to merge after the headers, and go through a single cat, then split into two pipes?
And someone else told me that i could just run two pipes, as long as they both had cats?
A: It depends on what state your in. The best thing to do is call your local state police or city police and ask them what is the legal thing to do. All states have different laws.
Fuel System Won't Start Happens sometimes When warm
Q: When it is above a certain temperature outside air, the fuel pump in my Ford 150 truck does not come on, until the outside air drops down to a cooler temp.
A: I would go to an electronics store (Radio Shack) and get a can of electro-freeze (or equivalent). Spray this on distributor and other suspect components during confirmed no-start. This way you can cool components one by one, easily isolating offending part.
Drive Train / Driveline Other Happens sometimes When cold
Q: I have a 1990 F-150 and it has 140,000 miles on it. Its a 300cu. with a 5-speed. When its cold and i'm trying to put the gearshift in gear mostly in reverse the gears sometimes rake. I suspect the springs are weak in my clutch. I was wonder how expensive it would be to replace the clutch, pressure plate, and both bearings?
A: Try shifting into 2nd gear and then into reverse in one smooth movement. Ed
Q: My Pick-up has a 5.0 liter efi engine,with automatic transmission.
When cold and the ignition is turned on, I can hear the fuel pump run for a couple seconds but when trying to start, it turns over and there is spark but it won't fire. If I turn the key on and off several times after a while I can hear a kind of whizzing sound from the engine compartment on the passengers side, like a relay finally opening, and the engine will fire immediately and seems to run fine after that. The number of times I have to turn the key on and off varies. Once started it will start and run fine until the engine cools down.
A: This may be caused by the ignition switch. If it is faulty, it may not be sending power to the coil everytime you turn the key. That would explain why it doesn't have fire everytime you try to start it. Have the switch tested and if that's not bad then you probably have a defective ignition component such as the coil or ignition module if that vehicle is equipped with one.
Q: I have a 1990 Ford F-150 4x4 pickup 302 aut. I have owned it for six years it has 140,000 miles on it has not driven it in nine months only started at a few times. Battery was old so it went dead. Bought a new battery,now truck will not start. And so are real fast but will not fire. Fuel pump does not run, will run on Workbench. No juice to fuel pump. Checked fuses and fusible links all good. Do not know what else to check. Would appreciate any input on this. Must get truck running soon. Thank you.
A: Check the relay for the pump, If all fuses and wires are good then the relay is likely the cause. Also replace the fuel filter and add fresh gas.
Fuel System Malfunction Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I may need to replace a part of the hose that runs from the fuel neck to the tank on a Ford 1989 F-150. It's a 4.9l 300 engine.
Ford only sells the whole assembly, neck and all from the fender down to the tank, which is naturally very high priced.
All I need is the outer hose. Would a regular piece of hose work?
I noticed when I reinstalled mine it was cracking but the inner hose is still in excellent shape.
Do I even need to worry about replacing this? Any help is appreciated!
A: Yes you need to worry about this.... there's fire potential.... Especially on hot days.....!
Something called "green stripe" hose will work....
Also try the Finder or an auto wrecker for the complete assembly.... probably 25 to 35 dollars..... Ed
Q: My AC Compressor is bad and I don't want to go through the expense of replacing the Air Conditioner.
Can I remove the compressor, and replace it with a non-AC configuration pulley?
Originally the compressor started to sieze and the serpentine belt would smoke. I disconnected the electrical harness for the compressor and this seemed to work.
Now four months later, the belt wore out, and I replaced it with a new belt. The new belt wore out in 50 miles and the pulley on the compressor is making a combination squeeking and snare drum like sound.
A: Clutch is bad. Ford has the replacement bracket and pully to remove the compressor. Ed
Q: I have an 89 f-150 with a 4.9L and a 5 speed, when the engine is running at top of normal opetating rpm (guessing 2500 to 3500) there is a vibration in the engine that shakes the entire truck. It is in time with the engine and has no noise of physical contacting parts. Just a nasty vibration. I have replaced plugs wires cap and rotor. I have used a home test kit for the computer that says possible problem with cylinder 1 and another code that I cant remember but couldn't find in my book either. Everything seems to be in great shape. I suspect a partially burnt valve, bad injector or maybe a slipped counter weight if possible. I have no idea how to test these with out severe down time that I cant afford due to a simple vibration, It also seems to cut out a little once it is warm. Feels like fuel being cut for a fraction of a second four or five times then it stops for about thirty seconds. It does this at a cruising speed with no load, acceleration, or decelerationn. Is it possible that they are related? How do I test for burnt valves? How do I test Injectors. Is it possible for the harmonic balancer to have slipped or be a possible culprate? I could use help on this please and thanks, Austin
A: Timing marks are generaly place on the harmonic balancer , or on the pulley that is attached to it . If this is the case , your timing marks are useless . A burnt valve might be found by using a compression test . Buy a compression test kit or fabricate one from an old spark plug , some metal tubing and a pressure gauge . Include an easy to operate purge valve . Check each cylinder , doing one at a time . Do NOT disconnect all of the wire from all of the plugs . Do the test , one cylinder at a time . Log the readings , listing cylinder number and the prssure that you obtain . Disconnect the coil wire or remove the distributor cap before starting . Compare all of the readings . They should all be close to each other . Consult a manual for your engine that gives compression pressures . If it is a valve , you will soon know . For what you give as the problem , it probably is a bad valve , or timing is not correct . To save time , go to a recycler , buy a replacement head , have a valve job done on it , get all the parts and tools that you need , a manual , and a free day off . Then have at it .
Ignition System Won't Start Happens always When warm
Q: My 1988 Ford F-150 starts good when its cold. After I drive it to work though which is about 25 miles it won't start if I try to start it right after I park it. After it sits a while then I go to lunch it starts up great. When I'm ready to go home it starts up great. Once I'm home and turn it off and then I try to restart it it won't start. Its sounds real weak and barely turns over when I try to start it.
I've recently had the following replaced: starter, ignition module, spark plugs, distributor cap, ignition rotor. The timming has been set.
The trucks runs fine, the only problem is that after I drive it about 25 miles it won't start. If I wait about 30 minutes or so it will start up.
Could it be that the engine temperature is getting a little too high, even though its not overheating?
A: Sounds like the battery/cables. Clean connections thoroughly.. at battery, starter, and alternator. Check charging voltage. If all is fine, try fresh battery.
Q: It won't start cold. I have to use starting fluid to get started. It has 40lbs fuel pressure has new injectors.
A: I would check the temperature sensor..... this little item signals the computer about coolant temperature....
If the temperature sensor is out of range and the computer thinks you're in California on a hot day, it will meter very little fuel for starting...... Ed
Q: Replaced efi system with Holley intake & 600cfm carb.
The engine starts and runs fine and seems to run out of fuel.
The fuel pump runs for a couple seconds when the ignition is turned on. Not sure if it continues to run after the engine starts.
Do I need to rewire the fuel pump if using a carburator or will the efi computer work?
Do I need to install a fuel regulator?
A: Be careful, the fuel pressure might be too high
for you carb.
Q: I'm trying to replace the front disk brake pads and I can't see how to get the old ones off . Is there a clip or a trick? I've removed the only two bolts I can see to remove, and replaced one because it allowed brake fluid to leak.
A: Most Fords have two caliper pins that you simply drive out with a screwdriver and hammer.
they look like metal shims with rubber in the middle, just drive them out.
Q: The heads were just rebuilt. Now, when I start it, it backfires out of carburator constantly. Before the heads were rebuilt, I'd lose power and it would backfire.
Now, when it starts, it keeps popping out of the carb nonstop, and there's no power. Could that be the timing chain or cam?
Q: The truck has a 300 straight 6 cylinder with a 4 speed. When I am driving the truck, 1rst and 2nd has plenty of power, when I hit 3rd it will gain speed but I feel a loss of power. When I hit 4th I lose I all. It will not gain speed. I rebuilt my carborator and adjusted my timing and it did not help. Could it be a loss of compression, the clutch or the transmission.
A: If the catalytic convertor is plugged, or maybe you are reaching the speed where the engine can not produce the power to overcome the gearing and weight of the vehicle to increase the speed. Ed
Q: Carb cap roter wires plugs all new.Small exaust leak at heat exchange on rear driver head  cant seem to get rid of backfire on acceleration in drive. Don't think leak is my problem. What else could it be?
A: Check vaccum system for leaks, had similar problem. Also look under hood with all the lights off, might see some errant sparks flying around in the plug / wire / coil area. If you got stray lightning flying around could be one of those new plugs or wires isn't working so well or a bad connection. Hope this is helpful.
Q: I've filled up the Gas Tank.
The Truck runs for about a block then stalls.
The Gas Gauge reads empty
Yet there is no leak.
I bought a Fuel Fiter, could this be the problem and where is it located?
A: Yes this could be the problem. The fuel filter should be located under the cab on the driverside frame rail. You will need a special tool to release the spring that locks the fuel filter to the fuel line. These tools are available at all parts stores for about 10.00.
Also try running the truck with the fuel fill cap removed. This will let you know if you have a vent concern. Good luck
Chassis / Suspension & Steering Other When turning Always
Q: The steering has a lot of play in it.
There's at least 2-3 inches of play, when turning to either side. It's a lot of work to even keep the truck on the road!
I'm thinking about replacing the steering gear, but don't know whether that would solve the problem.
Your advice would be appreciated.
A: First you can adjust the play in the steering box... With wheels facing straight ahead.... locate the screw with the lock nut usually on the top of the steering box... loosen the lock nut and then tighten the screw inward 1/2 turn and try the free play.... repeat until a lot less play... do not over tighten or the steering box will bind up.....Ed
All Part Groups Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: Could you please tell me which motor I have, whether it is a 351w or 302? It is in a 1974 Ford pickup but it is not the original motor. The only casting on the block is 3F210444. The intake manifold has D 30 E-9426-AA cast into it.
A: The 302 usually has more rounded valve covers and the 351 has a higher and more ridged type valve cover...302 has the distributer at the back of the engine, I think...Ed