Q: I recently bought a 2000 Mustang GT and would like to modify the car to increase performance. Nothing hardcore, just a few things for the fun of it.
Most of the magazines seem to talk about modifications that are thousands of dollars. This is the car that we drive around for every day purposes.
For the time being, I'm adding a K&N filter, flowmasters, and a set bosch 4 spark plugs.
What are some other modifications that will not only increase the performance, but also keep the gas mileage tolerable, (if not improved)?
Also, do you have any idea if a set of 275/ 40R17 tires will fit on the stock 17" rim? They are a little over an inch wider than the 245/45's that came on the car.
Sorry if my questions are a bit stupid.
A: Your questions are all very good ones.....
The tire fit can be measured and advised at any reputable tire place....
The Flowmasters may drive you crazy in a few months with the deep rumble (good stereo helps kill this) and the K&N filter system will help...
Nothing can be done until warrantee is over and then spend your first 700.00 on a nitrous fogger system..... Ed
Q: How much would I benefit by balancing the block of my 4.6 liter V8?
I'm also thinking of putting forged pistons and upgraded rods in the car to bring up the compression ratio in the engine.
Also, how much would I benefit if I port and polish the factory heads along with the intake?
Any other suggestions? Thank you for your help.
A: Save a whole lot of grief/ money/ time/ effort and invest about $800.00 in a nitrous fogger system....
Install in about 6 hrs and fly...... Ed
Q: Hi, Whenever I rev my '98 Mustang GT, and engage and disengage the clutch either while driving and shifting, or just sitting, the car makes a weird high pitched sound.
I've taken it to the dealer and they've replaced the throw out bearing, nothing happened still did the same thing.
They're refusing to touch anything else and they keep telling me thats it's an "annoying little noise that will always be there."
Any suggestions as to what it could be????
The car runs great just hear that noise all the time. I've tried other '98 GT's and they don't make that sound. thank you.
A: Mike... it does sound like the release bearing.... did replacing the release bearing cost hundreds of dollars???....
If so, why not a new clutch with it and if not, they didn't really replace it...
The transmission has to come out to replace it..... Ed
All Part Groups Upgrade Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I want to add 3.73 gears to my mustang, right now I have 3.27. Will gas economy suffer when driving on the highway? My usual speed is 70 miles in 5th gear, how much of a change will I notice?
Also, do you know if a stock shift knob fit on a pro 5.0 shifter? Thank you. Mike
A: Seat-of-the-pants-figuring says that the ratio change is about 50 points over the 300(3;27) start or about 1/6th...... so at 20 MPG x 1/6th my guess is about down to 16 MPG....
However... the new acceleration phase of your life because of the gear change is going to have you wearing the carpet out under the gas pedal so I'm betting about 12 MPG for the first few weeks.... Ed
Heating / Cooling System Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: OK my 1988 mustang got a new heater core,and thermastat. It was used when heat was"t needed and sat a season when heat was needed. Now this winter when we used it, the heat is not working . Seems to throw some heat with fan on lowest setting. Then when fan is on high the some what warm air gets cold. Looking in small hole can see air flapper move up and down. Can't find any type of valve that my control fluid flow to core like my 94 Astro.Think I should pull dash apart again. Any ideals?
Thanks for your time, Mike
A: since the heater core is so hard to get to check both upper and lower radiator hoses to make sure they are getting hot,then check both heater hoses,if they all are hot then you will probably need to pull the dash,if they are not hot you could have air in the system in which case you need to install a coolant flush tee ,install it on the heater hose and loosen top of the tee with motor running and heater on to bleed out the air,this is a commom problem on the mustang
Q: My 1996 Mustang GT 5-speed makes a gear noise when in neutral, and when in gear sometimes. The noise is most noticable when cold, the transmission has also been clashing when shifting into 5th for awhile. The transmission does shift well otherwise.
A: It's possible the counter shaft bearings worn.... But try changing the fluid first....... Ed
Q: Water and antifreeze is squirting out when the car get warm and water begins to move through the engine.
The part is the silver plastic or composite piece that lies on top of the engine where most manifolds would be, and it has a one to two inch crack.
What part is this? And what is the expense to fix? Thanks.
A: Going by your description it sounds like you are talking about the intake manifold...... Ed
All Part Groups Malfunction When driving Not applicable
Q: Can you help me?
We just got a 1996 Mustang GT and when I was horsing around a little over the weekend going from 1st to 2nd gear my foot slipped off the clutch pedal. Now if I take my foot and lightly pull up on the pedal it appears to become dis-logged and will mover from side to side. If I push it to the floor and let it retract as normal it is OK. This is driving me nuts, what is the problem...
I would all so like to adjust the clutch because if I shift to fast from 1st to 2nd it will grind sometimes, normal shifting is fine other then the clutch must be pushed the entire way to the floor. (The clutch does not slip at all...)
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always
Q: Ever since I put a new battery in my mustang..the airbag light is ALWAYS on..what is causing this?
A: The airbag system is not "arming".....
Did you leave any wires disconnected at the battery???....
Try disconnecting the negative post clamp for about 5 minutes with the key OFF and see if it resets... Ed
Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When driving Always
Q: When driving even on flat terrain, the automatic transmission jumps between overdrive and drive.Either I can slow down or accelerate to re-engage overdrive. On a five mile drive, it can happen from zero to four or five times. Ocassionally, when the tranny decides to downshift itself, the engine will rev but the tranny will not pull, after a few seconds and slowing down several miles/hour, it will re-engage with generally little to noise and pull fine. I have changed the overdrive engaging switch inside the car and diagnostic computers indicate that there is nothing else wrong with the car.
A: Try resting your foot lightly on the brake pedal to activate the brake lights which should disengage the overdrive for you...if this works it will help you to control the engagement cycle to suit your driving.....Ed
Q: It's a loud, whirring sound, almost like a vacuum cleaner. It comes on and off with the fan so I'm thinking it's the fan clutch, or the fan motor, or something related. It's also in the general proximity of the fan, but could it be the belts? I want to know more symptoms though, because I don't want to pay an arm and a leg for Ford to diagnose and fix it. I try to do almost all the work myself on the car.
A: Open the hood and watch while the car is running...if the noise starts when the fan starts, you have found the scource. Ed
Q: I want to know if there is an easy way to adjust the convertible top.
When I close my convertible top, the guide pins end up about 1" away from the holes they are supposed to go into. When it is cold, the roof contracts a bit and it take a lot of effort to get the top up and closed down. When it is warm out, things aren't so bad.
I need a pointer on the web, or to a book that shows how to adjust the top.
A: It sounds like your top is just getting old and shrinking. The top is attached (with the rear window assembly) with bolts behind the rear seat. There is no way to successfully adjust this. I'm afraid that your only option is to use it, like it is, until it finally gives out and then have it replaced professionally. Believe me...This is NOT something that you want to tackle yourself. If you screw it up, you will have to pay for another top. It just isn't worth it.
I am no longer in the trim business but, I have had to see the look on many sad faces when I tell them that they have ruined their brand new top.
Q: My check engine light comes on and off while driving. I checked the codes and it said that bank #2 air/fuel is running lean. I recently had headers installed and the mechanic told me that the EGR valve didn't fit perfectly onto the headers. He told me it wouldn't matter though. Could this be causing the lean condition?
A: Bad advice from your mechanic. Try another mechanic, one more in tune with modern engine control systems. The egr valve must be installed properly.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Upgrade When accelerating Always
Q: trying to find computer to put peformance chip for better acceleration
A: Ford does not have a chip like GM cars do,you can purchase a new powertrain control module,this is the main module not an ingnition module,I would get it through Ford.It can be used with larger injectore and mass air flow.Ford part #is M-9000.C52,These kits are not cheap but well worth the cost.
Q: I replaced the radiator, water pump and thermostat. Now it will not idle at all.
The car didn't run over normal temperature, this only started after I replaced the parts. I cannot find the problem. help?
A: Clean the idle air control motor and channel...
Also did you change the timing or any other setttings????.... Ed
Q: I want to replace my tired 5.0 with a 1996 351w out of an F250 can I hook up the fuel injection that is on the motor to the 94 car electronics or will I have to go to the aftermarket for intake and computer?
The old 5.0 motor runs ok but used 3 quarts of oil in a thousand miles. the car doesn't smoke and I cant find any major oil leaks.
Will the pcv valve pull oil thru the intake like on some of the older carb types did? And if so how do I cure it?
A: Buy the aftermarket intake and use your wiring harness, injectors, and sensors
you will have to change more parts and ford racing makes a kit of parts for this change over.. Oil Pan.. Water pump etc.. check the 5.0 magazines for the suppliers.. Good luck..
3 quarts in a 1000 miles.. lots of oil for not smoking.. look at the plugs.. do a compression test.. if this is good it could be as simple as a valve guide seal problem.. do a leak down test. if you cannot perform these tests it might be worth the 100-200 $ that it would cost for you to go to a shop and have them check it.. Problem finding an honest shop..
Q: What are the most effective upgrades for a 5.0 Automatic?
Transmission shift kit?
Cold Air induction?
A: The best and most cost effective upgrades you can make are in the intake and exhaust areas. Try a aftermarket intake manifold, i.e.
Edelbrock, and a set of headers. The more air you can get in and out of your engine the more power it will make.
Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When driving Always
Q: my car feels like it slides in the rearend a little bit but only when i take a left turn, and when you shake the car in the back it makes a klunk coming from the left rear wheel. ka klunk ka klunk, i check the air in the tires and the sway bar.it all looks good any idea?
A: have your axels checked. My F-150 was doing this for a while. When going around corners "LEFT", I would feel the rearend "shift". I lost the rear right wheel one day while getting on the Freeway.
Q: how do i fix my sagging doors on my driver side of my mustang, and how do i get the door pins out
there are several places that offer "1979-93 Door Hinge Repair Kit" like http://www.50resto.com/ for example. I have not changed mine yet but I am planning to soon. The kit comes with 1 pin, 2 bushings, and 1 cotter pin. I have read that you use a small bolt cutter and cut the existing one in half to remove it. Good luck, hope this helps. PS. You will need 2 kits per door and at 50resto they are at sale for $5.00 each.
Q: When I mash the pedal to get up speed, it sounds like it's back firing in the intake - in all gears after 3000 RPMs - but if I gently press the pedal, I don't get that until 4th gear after 4000 RPM's. Any ideas? Thanks
A: If this is a 5.0 litre, I have the answer... And this one took a lot of hours to find....
The spark plugs have to be gapped at .52 to .54 on this.....
Not the .42 to .46 like all the other Fords..... good luck ....Ed
All Part Groups Won't Start Not applicable Not applicable
Q: It won't start. I've replaced the battery, alternator, solenoid so my question is..
Could it be the starter? I tried to take it off, but I've never done this before.
And looking at one of the bolts it looks to be rounded off. How can I get it off?
A: Is there power getting to the starter????... is this a problem with either a fusable link or maybe the ignition switch....
Or if a manual transmission.. how about the clutch safety switch or the neutral safety switch????
A: Obviously your water pump needs to be replaced.The main seal on the bearing in the water pump has a weep hole on the bottom and when the bearing seal is failing water will"weep out of this hole.Mustangs are some of the easiest vehicles to change the water pump on.If you are mechanically inclined,you could probably do this yourself.You have to remove the belts and accesories(alternator,power steering pump,etc.)to get to the water pump.If you have air conditioning DO NOT take the hoses off of the compressor.You will lose all of your freon if you do.You sholud be able to just move the compressor out of the way.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: 1989 Mustang GT Convertible. After driving with both headlights and driving lights on for a while, both the headlights and the driving lights will flicker and then turn off. If I turn off the lights for a few minutes they will come back on. This doesn't happen if I use only the headlights. Only if I use the driving lights at the same time.
A: You need to wire in a relay for powering the driving lights..... too much current is being drawn through the headlight switch and overheating it.... Ed
Q: I recently installed Force 2 Flowmasters.
When in park, I noticed that the engine will not pass 4500 rpms and severely backfires. Also the Check Engine light comes on after about a half hour of driving. What are the possible causes of these problems?
A: Engine may have RPM limitation safety feature for neutral and park....
Engine light on will set codes which you can retrieve and diagnose with.... Ed
Q: The right front tire wears down much faster than the other 3 on every set I buy. I've checked the alignment and changed the shocks. I've taken it to several shops and they can't explain why. Everything checks out in good shape. Can you help me?
Drive Train / Driveline Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: There is no gear in the transmission, when it is in gear (5 speed).
A: There could be more than one scenario. 1)Shift rail broken or damaged; 2)Broken shift fork; or 3) Input drive gear stripped, which is common due to front bearing worn out and continued running hard. The 77mm Borg Warner is a weak sister and you probably need an overhaul. If there was considerable noise the bearings are worn out.
Q: When I press the accelerator to the floor in first gear, then shift to second gear and put the pedal to the floor again, it chuggs and coughs.
Also I think the smog pump is making a whining sound. What could all of this be?
A: Is the electric fuel pump making a "bees in a can" kinda buzzing sound, or has it been a while since you changed the fuel filter????....
Does it sound like a fuel supply problem?? The air pump is not related to this problem in any way I can think of; it is a separate thing........ Ed
Electrical / Lighting Systems Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I have a complete 5.0 ford mustang engine with computer but am having problems getting the right wire harness. The engine is complete but lacking the wire harness to connect the computer. Am I looking for a computer harness or an engine harness. Each place I go gives me a diffrent option which varies in a big difference in price.
A: You need the harness(s) that connect from the computer to every sensor on the engine..complete....Ed
Q: The vehicle will not start. The engine won't turn over at all. I checked the battery and it's good. There are no noises. Checked in dash fuses - they are good. I just changed the fuel filter and it's good. I also just changed the transmisson filter and pan seal. Vehicle started before I did it.
It's an automatic on the floor (AOT) (and also the 1st gear drive and neutral slip.)
What did I mess up? Or any suggestions to fix problem?
A: The key piece of info from you is that you just serviced the transmission..... your problem is related to that.....
Check to see if you left or disconnected the neutral safety switch........ the answer below is incorrect I believe..... Ed
SOUNDS LIKE STARTER SOLENOID IS BAD. TO CHECK IT, FIND THE STARTER, WHICH SHOULD BE ON THE BOTTOM RIGHT SIDE OF THE MOTOR, USE A SCREWDRIVER (LONG!) TOUCH BOTH OF THE BOLTS ON BACK OF STARTER SOLENOID.
IF IT TURNS OVER THE SOLENOID IS GOOD,IF NOT REPLACE IT.
IF THAT IS NOT THE PROBLEM CHECK THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR. SHAUN
Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When accelerating Always
Q: I just fixed an earlier problem with my re-install of my transmission pan, and vehichle wouldn't start. The problem was with an adjustment with my shifter. It's an AOT auto shifter on the floor. So it starts now, and I made sure it was in the overdrive position when I tightened it back down, it shifts correctly, BUT it will not engege until I hit around 2000-3000 RPMs. Even then it still just moves momentarly. Whats wrong?
A: Either low fluid, or you knocked the oil pump pick-up tube and it is sucking mostly air..... Ed
Q: My car dies on me all the time. It goes to idle down when I stop and it dies on me most of the time. when it does idle, the rpms fluctuate back and forth between 300 and 1000 rpms. The rpms go up and down and it won't idle at a set rpm. please help
A: Remove and clean the idle air control motor including the channel it fits into. Use a good quality carb spray. Ed
Drive Train / Driveline Upgrade Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I have a 88 5.0 GT that has a 5 speed. I would like to know what automatic would fit other than an AOD.
A: The AOD is the only automatic to withstand the power of a GT. Your only option would be a c-4 automatic with beefed-up clutch packs.
The downside is the modifications required to install any automatic in place of a manual trns.
You will have to relocate transmission crossmember, possibly modify exhaust, build or have a machine shop build a drive shaft, and change your on board computer to an automatic transmission calibration.
The final hair raiser will be obtaining replacement parts for your modified vehicle
All Part Groups Malfunction When turning Not applicable
Q: 1988 Mustang GT 5.0 V-8, I was have been told that the part is an Air Pump, which is located just below the alternator. The pulley has frozen up. How do I release the tension pulley, to loosen the belt to remove the Air Pump ? What is the reason for the air pump?
A: you can bypass the pump a popular performance trick witha "short belt" without any problems use belt#5060760 the only thing is it increases your hc's out the tailpipe if your in an emissions check area. the belt comes close to itself by the tentioner and the water pump but it works, ive had one for years.
Q: I RECENTLY PURCHASED A 1988 MUSTANG GT THAT HAD FIRE DAMAGE. i ALSO PURCHASED A FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM OFF A 1988 LINCOLN LSC. THE LINCOLN HAS ONLY 7 WIRES IN THE WHITE PLUG ON THE INJECTION SYSTEM WHERE THE MUSTANG HAS 10 WIRES. DOES THIS MAKE ANY DIFFERENCE? OR IS THOSE WIRES JUST FOR DIFFERENT TEMP SENSORS ETC.?
A: You will need to either use the entire harness from the Lincoln, or secure another Mustang harness. There are enough differences to complicate things. An electrical and Vac manual for both cars would help.
You might try contacting someone on the Ranger V8 swap Forum @ www.fordranger.com. These guys do this type of swap often.
Drive Train / Driveline Other Happens always Always
Q: The car will barely shift gears, even when the clutch
pedal is fully depressed. The clutch is new, so is there
something I can adjust easily to fix this? Thanks
A: Make sure the clutch free play is set correctly.... to less
than 1 inch of no resistance at the top of the pedal travel..
Also, pushing down on the pedal with the toe portion of your
foot on these cars help...
The design is a problem on these cars anyway, and heels on
your shoe any longer than normal aggravates or contributes
to the problem....Ed
Q: My Mustang runs fine when it is cold, but after I run it for awhile, then turn it off, it won't start back up.
The car cranks over then dies immediately.
If I let it sit for a couple hours it starts right up and runs great.
Could it be the TFI Module on the distributor?
I just can't figure it out.
A: Yes the TFI module is a common problem...
Check it out according to specs though, as they are expensive and guessing will not get your money back if you guess wrong..... Ed
Q: When driving or idling in my 87 GT the gas gauge does not operate properly. It gives a false reading, usually of full, until tank reaches approx. 1/8 of a tank at which times it begins to work correctly. What could be the problem and how do I fix it?
A: Sounds to me like the fuel tank sending unit is not working correctly. Ed
Electrical / Lighting Systems Upgrade Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I own a 87 GT with speed density and would like to upgrade to the mass air system. I've been checking prices for the mustang mass air conversion kit and noticed that a similar conversion kit for pickups was considerably cheaper. Will the pickup conversion kit work? Just wondering.
A: No I dont think it will work. You should call a dealer.
Q: I am thinking about putting a 351c or a 351w into my 1987 mustang gt will it fit?
What all do I need to convert it, will it fit with the standard motor mounts or water pump heads etc.
A: The 351W and 351C are two totally different motors. The 351C will more than likely not fit very well in your Mustang. Also while shopping for parts for my 351C I have noticed that performance parts for these engines are limited and more exspensive than a 351W. As near as I can tell the 351W is a 302 with different heads and shorter stroke.
You can build a rather radical 351W since parts are readily available but not cheap compared to a 350 Chevy. What you will need to do this job is up to you and your wallet.
Check out summitracing.com they have most of what you will probably need.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always
Q: I only have one flasher fuse in my car. I can't figure out why my turn signals won't work.
My flashers work fine but when I turn on my air conditioner in my car my hazard light comes on.
What could these things be?
A: a loose ground maybe part of the problem look around the head lamp area
Drive Train / Driveline Making Noise When stopped Always
Q: It sounds like a throughout bearing sound. It says in my manual that the bearing is always engaged. (is this possible). it makes a whining sound when sitting in neutral and the clutch is out. Furthermore, this sound goes on and off if the car is rolling.
A: Xame thing is wrong with my bronco. Its fine until the bearings are gone, then its hard to shit and makes a crappy noise.
You have an auto-adjusting clutch pedal.
Look under the dash there is two plastic cogs that hook to your clutch cable to adjust cable slack.
Press up on the cog that hooks to the cable as you pull your pedal to you.
It should click and the slack will be taken out of your clutch.
I have a white 91 drop top with a 347 stroker and a five speed richmond.
You can buy a conversion kit for the self adjuster.
It includes steel cogs ,a new clutch cable,and you can set your clutch to throw out when you want it.
It is a must have if you swap to the bigger cobra clutch like I did.
Ram line sold me an all steel throw out bering and a case hardend input shaft.
My input shaft was pretty trashed and caused the throw out bering to chatter.
If you need any help or any other info.E-mail me at firstname.lastname@example.org
I hate to see a pony car in trouble!!! see ya later Jake.
Fuel System Malfunction When accelerating When cold
Q: Runs good for 3-5 min's then eng starts racing
for 2-3 mins then clear's out. If you do not warm up the engine this will not happen.
A: These are tricky little early fuel injection type systems...solenoids in and around throttle body..including an idle kicker....something in the temperature based control system is wrong....probably happens all the time but when you are driving..it doesn't show up because you already are opening the throttle plate......Ed
Q: I have two questions about my 1986 mustang gt. I have converted the engine to a 1969 351 windsor with the following mods: 294 544 cam with a 3500-7000 power band(with matching valve springs and lifters), weiand intake with 3500-7000 powerband, bored .060, 10 to 1 compression, holley 750, various machine work, and a 1986 TFI distributor off of a 351 f-150. the problem is it cuts out right at 5000 every time and wont pull any farther. ive checked the coil, ignition module, valve spring height and fuel pressure and they are all good. is there anything else that could cause it to cut out?
My next question is this: a mustang shop in town told me that I can't run a TFI distributor on a pre 1984 engine or it wont run right. Is that true? Thanks and hope to hear from you soon.
A: I would look for a Crown Victoria 351 tfi distributor.......
By factory design, how many 351 f150 engines would rev past 5000?? .....Ed
Q: When on the freeway, either 3 or 4 gear going into 4 or 5th gear, or just if in 5th gear and I need to accelerate and it will chug, chug into you floor it and it finally stops doing it and runs smoothly again.
A: It may be that you are trying to drive outside of the engines torque curve. If you are around 2000 rpms then that should be enough torque to avoid the chugging. But if you are driving at 2000 or more rpms, you may have to have your injectors cleaned. I say injectors but you may have a carb. I don't know. Also check your ignition timing.
All Part Groups Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I have an 86 GT, and I bought the 17x9 cobra r rims. I am interested in putting on the 285/40/17 or 275/40/17 on the back.
Will they fit, or will they rub against the quad shock. Any info would be appreciated.
A: The only thing I can tell you is to take it to your local tire store and have them put one on, and see if it does or doesnt.
I run 235 45 zr 17's on my 91' GT w a 7" wheel and have 14 inch clearance to quad shock.
Q: I HAVE A 86 MUSTANG GT FUEL INJECTED. IF I TURN ON THE LIGHTS OR AIR CONDITIONER, THE CAR WILL IDLE UP & DOWN SURGING. CAN U TELL ME HOW I CAN CORRECT THIS PROBLEM?
A: You need to adjust your fast idle speed. The electrical load sensor (lights) or the a/c sensor kicks on the fast idle, but it is set too high, the computer reads an incorrect fuel mix and consequently the computer tries to adjust causing the idle to drop.....and then repeats.
Another cause for this behavior (if fast idle adjustment doesn't work) could be a vacuum leak. if excess air is getting into the throttle body / intake manifold, the engine will idle faster than normal.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Not applicable
Q: Fog Lights failing... I just bought this mustang
about three months ago, knowing that the fog lights didn't work.
I figured that I had enough experience to get them working again.Well, I was wrong! I troubleshot the wiring all the way down to the firewall and found out that power is getting to that point. And I cannot seem to find the right wire to see along the way where the problem might lie. After not finding the wire I used a multimeter to check my voltage at the light itself. And there's no power at all.
Do you know the route the wire goes through the engine compartment? Or maybe the answer do this problem. If you can help let me know
A: try splicing the wires where the wiring pigtail
meets to the live wire (just behind the bumper cover), i've had two gt's an 87 and a 90 both of them had bad wiring harnesses for the foglights once i spliced the wires and made certain that the live wire behind the fog light in the housing did not touch anything (they get real hot) everything was fine.
Brake System Upgrade Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I currently have four lug wheels, front disc, rear drum.
I would like to put rotors on the back and also convert my wheels to five lug.
Any advice to saving money or using other parts from salvaged vehicles to complete this conversion?
If it's not possible, directions and advice for a new kit would be helpful.
The car was made in Dec. of 1984, and is carburated.
A: I would try and locate a 5.0 litre.... maybe 1985 or 1986 and get everything....
Probably need the rear end housing also.....
Maybe a car that already has the power train sold..... and you take the rest of it....
I have an '85 Mustang GT 302 4bbl that I can't keep cool when the A/C is on and sitting in traffic. I've taken it to a radiator shop along with numerous mechanics and everybody is stumped. When the A/C is off, the temp starts coming back down. It gets hot enough under the hood to burn your eyebrows off. It's done this for at least 10 years now.
The motor is stock except for a Ford motorsport B303 camshaft .480 lift .280 duration 111 degree overlap. It has a Griffin radiator aluminum 2 row 2.5 inches thick radiator, high flow water pump, Robertshaw high flow thermostat, a Black Magic electric fan that pulls 2800 cfm and a 11 inch fan that pulls 1150 cfm. I have a 130 amp alternator to power them along with a nascar select battery. The car has true dual exhaust with dual Thrush high flow catalytic converters and 3 chamber Flowmaster mufflers. There used to be an 11" X 11" x 1.5" oil cooler on it but all it did was add more heat under the hood.
It does not spark knock at all. The timing is set at 10 deg btc. The Mustang place suggest 12, but wouldn't that add more heat?
If you take the radiator cap off when it's cold and heat the motor you can see the water flowing through the radiator very well. The cooling system sppears to be working well.
Would a cowl induction hood help? It runs great even though it has 175,000 miles on it. It doesn't even smoke. Is there something that could be wrong in the engine to make it run so hot?
Thank you for your time.
A: Check the flywheel dampener on the front of the engine to see that it has not spun a little.....
Actually, advancing the timing COOLS the engine some, and you may be setting the timing at about 3 or 4 degres instead...... Ed
Ignition System Won't Start When starting Not applicable
Q: My car was running fine all day. The temperature outside was around 90. I stopped at a light and when I went to accelerate the car kind of hesitated.
Stuttered a lot as I pressed the gas down, so I finally pulled into a service stop. I shut the car off to look at the engine and it all looked fine.
When I went to start it, it refused to start.
Since then I have been checking the ignition system out to no avail.
The engine is a 302 V8 from a 1985 Mustang GT. I checked for spark at the wires, and the ignition coil.
Both produced nothing. Thinking this was probably the ignition coil I went and bought a replacement. Still no go.
Now upon puttin the new ignition coil in, I was still unable to get a spark out of it.
Could someone tell me how I can test the ignition coil to make sure it is not bad?
A: I had the same problem with my 85 Mustang. If the problem only occurs when the engine is warm or the outside temperature is hot, it might be your coil. When I bought the replacement from Pepboys it wasn't the correct one. Are the 2 secondary prongs on the coil threaded or smooth? If the replacement coil has smooth prongs, it's the wrong one. The best bet is to go straight to a Ford dealer and get the exact replacement. Good luck.
Drive Train / Driveline Making Noise When driving Always
Q: There is a roaring noise coming from the rearend when im driving it. As lond as I`m going at a constant speed it stops, but if I smash the gas peddle it gets load. Also sometimes when I shift gears it makes a pinging noise.
A: This sounds like there is a problem with either the rear differential or the transmission. Try changing the fluids and checking for metal shavings, which can often couse severe damage.