Electrical / Lighting Systems Other Happens always Not applicable
Q: The headlights are out of alignment. Are there alignment screws somewhere?
A: With the new car especially 98 and up mustangs and other vehicles for what its worth, there are no aligment screws, the entire unit, is usually mounted in a way so that the alignment cant be changed. I recommend that you check your mountil screw or bolts...might just be loose.
Q: Oxygen sensors do not switch between rich and lean. What now?
A: If they are the 1 wire type, you need to completly warm the engine up 1st......
If they are the multiple wire type, they are self heating.....
Both need the engine run at more than 2000 RPM for at least 30 seconds before reading the O2 sensors..... if not... replace them.... Ed
Drive Train / Driveline Making Noise When driving When warm
Q: When the differential gets warm, I have a clicking sound that is not constant. It happens at any time straight forward or turning.
This is a small 7 or 8" diff. * bolt. rear housing # is D9EWDA.
Approximately what is the replacement cost of unit, cluster, and pinion? Would you tell me what year this unit is?
This differential is in a trike and we want to rebuild it. Also, does the Banjo come apart?
This would be much help to us. Thank You.
Triple D. Trikes. Dan Damron. damrondan@direct.ca
A: Dan.... I sure do wish that I could give you answers to those questions.....
The clicking sound is unusual, unless a pin is shifting and touching the inner housing....
Use the All-Parts Parts Finder or see wrecker for the price aspect of you question...
In the near future, we will have a database to answer these questions for you..... good luck... Ed
Q: The engine (351 W) has always had a tendency to overheat. It was just rebuilt and is in the breaking in stage (less than 500 miles).
It seems to be worse now even though I've just had a new shroud installed. As long as the weather is somewhat cool, it will do ok, but if it is hot or the traffic is slow, it will heat up quickly.
I'm not sure if this has an impact, but the air cleaner heat shield (stove pipe) is off and I am having trouble finding another one.
This problem is driving me nuts, any suggestions?
Also, I'm getting a pretty bad surging during accleration. I think this must be the carburetor since everything else has been replaced and is new.
Help!
A: The surging may be in the carb, but it could - and more likely is - in the EGR, or the vacuum diaphram of the distributor....
For the over heating, make sure first that the timing is not retarded a few degrees.....
Also ensure that the radiator is not plugged in places...... Ed
Q: i have a 69 mustang with a 73 351 cleveland, motor has only 15,000 miles on it, has been running real rough, changed plugs wires ect. still runs sluggish, thinking maybe it's the carb, but not sure. also has a tapping from the valve covers, they are not adjustable lifters, pulled all the plugs the other day and 6 are burning fine, 2 are oil fouled, not bad, but enough, what do you think the problem is? do i need to rebuild the top end? did i suck a valve in? are my rings shot? help me please ? the motor is built stock with a rv cam and a holley 600 4 barrel carb. carb was brand new when installed. have noticed alot of carbon build up in the carb, not to mention when hard accel blows alot of exhaust out the back.. thanks for your time.
A: Take your time and do a leak down test on the cylinders that have the wet plugs.
Ignition System Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: I have replaced starter, ignition switch, starter relay, voltage regulator, and wiring harness from firewall out. The problem is when you go to start the engine sometime the starter will stay engaged even with the key turned off or sometimes the starter will disengage and the motor will start but, when you turn the ignition key off the motor will stay running. At that point you need to take the battery cable off to shut either of them off. All the wires from the wiring harness were rechecked with the wiring harness diagram. Could this be a ground problem? Engine 289
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