A: Before you do that you may have to replace other parts you didn't think about such as: radiator, front springs, harnesses, suspension bits, etc. You may want to look at a V-8 equipped car, and compare all these things to see if you really want to do this. It may end up costing you quite a bit. Best advice: if you really want a V-8 car, sell the V-6 car.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Not applicable Not applicable
Q: My emergency lights won't work when i put the switch in the up position. Which fuse is it, and is there a fuse in the under-hood fuse box?
A: The hazard lights usually run through the same circuit as your indicators, so if the indicators are working properly it's probably a problem with your hazard light switch. Are all the wires still connected? It may be worth checking for dirt inide the switch, too.
Q: I have a 2000 3.8 Mustang. What can I do for more horsepower and acceleration?
A: The 3.8 is not the best platform from which to build a muscle car.....
However, for about $500.00 you can by a nitrous oxide fogger kit and increase about 100 horsepower with a few hours work, and not much wear and tear on the engine....
Stay with your basic jets, then you only use the power when you need to....
Brake System Malfunction When driving Not applicable
Q: My clutch might be slipping and the auto dealer said there is no spring, our 1998 model has hydrolics. But, he said before spending all the money,put some brake fluid in the reservoir, it might fix things. We can't see to find the reservoir, where is it?
A: Low brake fluid in the clutch master cylinder will not make the clutch slip. It might keep you from being to disengage the clutch due to lack of sufficient hydrolic pressure on the slave cylinder, but not slip. He is right, however in the fact that there is no return spring. I have a feeling that you are referring to a sensation of weak pedal pressure. While this could be caused by low fluid, it could also be caused by weakened (worn) pressure plate springs. Take the car to a professional. It's cheaper than getting stuck in the middle of nowhere.
Drive Train / Driveline Making Noise When driving Always
Q: When the clutch is engaged (foot off pedal), there is a high pitched squealing heard.
Where could this noise be coming from?
A: Usually these problems are related to the clutch release bearing, but this may also be a problem with the input shaft bearing of the transmission......
The next thing to look at is...... Does this happen in all gears, including reverse????... Ed
Q: I have a lot of steam comming from my engine... not just when it's cold but just about all the time when my car is running.
I had some one look at it, and they told me I could have blown a head gasket, they also told me that Ford made a recall on my car's engine for that same reason.
Is this true?
A: Your serial number and a call to Ford will confirm or not on the recall.... are you using or losing coolant???..... Ed
Q: When driving in general the RPM go to zero and the car stops when try starting it turns over and over, no fire to plugs but gas in the lines
A: Probably a bad ignition module.VERY common with Fords.If you have a distributor(pretty sure your car does)It will be the TFI module mounted cross-ways on the distrib.It will be black or gray,and flat,with a six-wire plug.you need a special socket to remove the 2 little screws that hold it on the distrib.Dont forget to use heat-sink compound when replacing.
Q: Where is the fuel relay switch located?? Thanks.
A: My guess would be either the ignition or more than likely... the fuel pump itself...
Have someone bang firmly on the bottom of the fuel tank while trying to start it when this happens...
If it starts right up, replace the fuel pump..... Ed
Q: I have a 1995 mustang V6 that is overheating when in traffic. Out on the highway is cool, no problems. I have recently (November, 2000) replaced the thermostat...but that didn't help now that we're in the hot season. Any ideas?
A: Make sure that the cooling fan is running correctly.
Chassis / Suspension & Steering Vibration When braking Always
Q: I get a lot of vibration when braking the car only. Brakes have been replaced. That wasn't the problem, still happening.
I thought there was a recall on something to do with this havn't been able to find.
Thank you for any assistance.
Chassis / Suspension & Steering Making Noise Happens always Always
Q: Hi im chris and i have a 1995 V6 mustang coupe
the thing is when am driving around no matter where or what kind of road bumpy or smooth on i hear a strange skeaky noise like a twitch of some kind ......its coming from the left front side of the car (drivers side)close to the tire and shocks etc
i allready replaced the rack and pinion , all 4 springs also the struts and yet it still makes the twitching noise like something is loose or something may need lube
i dont know...i need help can you tell me what can be wrong with my car ???? thank you
A: The rack and pinion definitely did not need to be replaced. I would say its either the ball joints or check all the rubber bushings on the control arms. They could of worn out and now the metal touches with metal now.
Q: After a major tune-up and a new egr valve, my car now does not idle the way it did when right.
It runs fine on the high end, but when it idles, it chuggs. Like it's gonna stall but it does not stall. The tack holds steady, but the car just is not right.
A mechanic says the sensor that runs the fan is bad... Could that be it? Help!
A: Not the fan sensor unless the car is over heating at idle...
Any number of things could be wrong.....
Did the mechanic unplug the PIP before setting timing?....
Also the idle air control motor is famous for being plugged and slow to react on these cars.... Ed
Q: At idle, the gear shifter shakes as if it's rubbing on something, and when I drive it gets worse. ('94 3.8L 5 speed) 5th gear seems to be the worst.
I'm not sure what to check. When I look under the car at the transmission I can see that at the top where the gear shift goes in is leaking is this transmission fluid or a grease, if it's grease where do I put it in and is there a seal or gasket to stop it from leaking.
thanks for your help.
A: If the vibration is in the gear shift handle then it is probably a function of age and mileage (things do loosen up over time). Also, check to see if this should have a counter weight attached to the tailshaft of the transmission. Ed
Drive Train / Driveline Upgrade Not applicable Not applicable
Q: Hi, can you tell me how to put a ring and pinion gear in?
I'm upgrading it to a 373! thanks
A: Yikes....... no way to give you the experience necessary in a few words... takes a few years of ruining parts a 1,000.00 at a time to learn..... phone around and take it to someone you can trust.... Ed
Q: My passenger side power window does not work well at all. It makes a kinda loud noise when I press the button, and I her some banging inside my passenger door panel.
I eventually got it back up, and it won't come back down.
I took the panel off and didn't see anything wrong with the track.
What should I check next, is this a sign of a bad motor?
A: Actually it sounds like a bad window regulator....
The gear on the motor has to mesh with the gear on the regulator and it sounds like the teeth are stripped... Ed
Q: I ran onto a pile of ice this past winter and cracked
the left underside of my frontside spoiler on the drivers'
Am I going to have to replace the whole bumper and how
much am I looking to spend?
A: Run through the All-Parts Finders or make a call to your
local auto recycler to answer those questions for you...
I spent about 30 years beating my knuckles on engines etc...
never spent much time beatin' body panels.....Ed
Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When driving Always
Q: I lost Overdrive somehow. It used to shift into overdrive around 45 or so, but it doesn't anymore.
The car performs exactly the same in D and OD.
While driving at 55, RPM is about 3000, and if I let off the gas, it drops down erratically and a bit slowly (as compared to if the car was in neutral) to idle.
It acts as if I had just pushed in the clutch on a standard. If I hit the gas lightly (not enough to make it accelerate), you can tell the tranny is not engaged, and if I keep it that way, it will not engage until the car slows down to the appropriate speed.
Also, when I'm driving around 40 and punch it, where it used to downshift, the car does not, and the revs can go to redline till I let off the gas.
It then shifts HARD into gear. Is this a bad transmission? Or has something just come loose that I can fix myself?
Thanks in advance!
A: Try disconnecting the battery negative cable for at least 1 minute to see if the body computer will reset....
If no improvement, yes it sounds like an internal transmission problem.... Ed
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Not applicable Always
Q: We just put in a new stereo in the 92 Mustang and now when the head lights are turned ON the stereo turns OFF... And won't turn back on until the lights are off. What did we do??
A: You most likely wired the main power wire for the stereo into the wire used to dim the stereo display when the headlights are on.
The circuit has enough power to run the stereo with the lights off but not on because the voltage drops with the lights on to dim the display when everything is connected properly.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Not applicable
Q: I recently began with a battery problem on my 1992 Ford Mustang 5.0. It turned out to be the alternator bearing fried from a belt tension spring that was putting to much pressure on the alternator. Due to a broken alternator bolt, it took me a while to get the unit replaced. While bolting the new unit into place (you have to cut the wires from the one connector (top) due to the factory harness problem, I made a stupid mistake of leaving the battery connected. The two black wires with the orange strip that ran from the housing came in contact with the new alternator housing. The unit sparked and something with a whistle sound rocketed until I was able to pull it away. As a result, I replaced the alternator and the battery again. Now here is the problem: The car starts and runs apparently fine but the battery indicator light is on solidly and the volt meter is only reading a little under 10 and drops to 9 when any accessories are active. I don't want to drain or kill another battery. What could be wrong?
Q: My car won't start.
It has spark and air, but no gas is getting through.
I changed the fuel pump and checked the fuel pump inertia switch.
What else could it be?
A: Is the fuel pump running while you are cranking the car engine??...
If not, you need to check for power to the fuel pump..... comes from a relay....... power to the relay is usually from the computer, etc..... Ed
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always
Q: The door chime wont shut off.
A: Check your door jamb switches for proper adjustment.
The ignition key warning chime sounds the same as door warning chime. The ground contact in the key cylinder may be grounded in which case the chime will sound continuously with the key out of the ignition.
Drive Train / Driveline Upgrade Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I was wondering what is involved in changing an automatic trans to a 5 speed in my 1991 mustang five litre LX. I want to know what kind of work is involved in doing this, if it is worth it, and if there is any sort of kit available to do it?
The other problem I have is with my 89 gt. It has a leak of water on the passenger side floor at the front on the car. It is not the heater core. It is just straight water. It happens when I wash the car or when it rains. It has been in to the windsheild shop numerous times to have it checked. Any suggestions?
A: Not familiar with the 89 Gt, but if you have AC... it could be the drain is clogged or broken (clear water from the ac removing humidity)
email me with any questions
All Part Groups Malfunction When accelerating Always
Q: I just got the transmission fixed on the car and now when I try to accelerate it just revs the engine up. And, the car is also starting to sound like a truck.
A: If this is an automatic, then they missed something inside the transmission.....
If it's a manual transmission, then they should have put a new clutch in...... and ask them to tighten the exhaust while they're at it.... Ed
All Part Groups Making Noise When accelerating Always
Q: When acclerating in the car, there is an loud rattling sound, and the car does not acclerate properly.
And also when I'm driving, the car and it acclerates to an certain point, the car has sort like a kick back to it just before it switches into the next gear.
Can anything be done to stop that?
A: Do you have any idea what the rattling is from?????....... are the engine mounts okay????
Q: There is a vibration right in front of the firewall. It vibrates to no specific pattern, basically whenever it feels like it. It is very loud and sounds like something on the exhaust but I got under the car and can't see anything shaking
A: Metal sheild on the catalitic convertor is loose. Ed
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: Well I was driving down the street in my 1990 Ford Mustang LX and everything sounded fine. My car simply shut off and I have been unable to start it again. The stereo and other electrical systems seem to be working, but this may be due to a well charged battery. There seems to be plenty of cranking amps to the engine but the car won't start. I do have gas in the car as well so that is not the problem. Any suggestions as what to do or to buy to fix this problem would be greatly appreciated.
A: Dear Nathan,
I've had the same problem on many EFI Fords I've worked on as well as my own Bronco. If the car cranks over but doesn't fire, check to see if 1) when your key is in the on position you "check engine" light comes on and 2) if immediatly after turning the key to "on", your fuel pump cycles for about 2 sec. (you can check this by putting your ear near the gas tank and listening for a buzz when the key is turned. If one of these tests fails, check the relay for the fuel pump and computer by placing a jumper between the constant power and wire that feeds power to the device.(you can figure this out buy looking at the diagram in you service manual) if the car starts after jumping the relay, replace the relay. For some reason these relays have a history of randomly shorting out and i have replaced 2 of them on my truck. good luck
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens sometimes Not applicable
Q: Hi, I just recently bought a 1990 Ford Mustang LX. Whenever I stop and shut the car off the fuel pump won't always shut off with the car. Im pretty sure it's the fuel pump relay but i cant seem to locate where its at. Im not very good with cars but I was wondering if you could tell where the relay is at or if something else could be causing the fuel pump to continue to cycle when the car is shut off. Thank You. And i look forward to hearing from you.
A: The relay should be under the hood on the passnger side on the fire wall. Turn key on and listen to it. Your relay is going bad.
Drive Train / Driveline Making Noise Happens always Always
Q: The valve train makes alot of clacking as if the rockers are loose.
I replaced the cam, lifters, and pushrods to no avail.
Could the rockers be worn? Or maybe head problems, all rockers make this noise, 50k on rebuilt motor, heads.
A: Sounds to me like an oil flow problem to the top part of the heads..... If the problem has been since the rebuild, then they made a mistake and should help you with it... Ed
I have a friend with a '89 Mustang that has a 2.3L '4 banger' and is wanting to know what he can do to give him a little more power.
I was suggesting a computer chip at first. Once reading through some of your articles, I noticed that you were recommending nitrous fogger kits to someone who had a 6 cylinder engine (with little stress on the engine).
What can you do with a 4 banger? Not expecting any miracles, just wanting to know what options there are for improvement.
A: Same same my friend.... an extra 80 horsepower with the flick of a switch..... and only when you need it also.... Ed
Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: My 2.3 L 4 cyl. engine has been running warm. The heater and defroster will not blow hot air. I replaced the thermostat but the car remains running warm (it's winter now). What should I do to get the heater to blow warm and cool off the engine. Should I repace the water pump and flush the engine? I do not know where the temperature sensor is to replace it (the auto parts store suggested that). The cooling water system is not leaking anywhere and is not loosing water. Help!
A: Have the system pressure tested and fluhed out at a radiator shop.
Q: I have a automatic transmission, when the car is hot and I step on the gas pedal and the car doesn't want or move for about 3 seconds or so.
It trys to accelerate but it feels like its not getting any fuel and its going to turn off.
A: There should be (I forget what it's called) but on older cars vacuum running diaphram up by the carburetor. On yours, there should be an electrical plug in the back. Unplug that, and run and see if it fixes the problem.
Ignition System Tuning Not applicable Not applicable
Q: Looking for the correct positions for the ignition advance The motor is a 2.3 EFI. ...can't seem to find them anywhere.
Currently I have 6 degrees of advance from idle to 3K rpm.
Any information or hints would be welcome.
A: Off the top of my head... I think it was 10 btdc, with advanced unplugged. Don't quote me.
Q: I have completly redone the motor and all the attachments to the motor. I have unhooked the vacuum hoses and can't seem to reconnect the hoses to get them to work properly. I am really looking for a diagram to show me how to reconnect the hoses or even someone to tell me how, I am at a lost and anyone I ask seems to be also. I would appreciate any help you could give me. Thank you. Edwin Harris e-mail address is firstname.lastname@example.org
A: usually the car has a vaccum diagram on the in side of the hood
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always
Q: I am trying to get the damn left and right signals to work on my 89 ford mustang lx. i bought the 12 volt 2 terminal electronic flasher but when i plugged it in it did not work. there is two places that i can find for it to fit and i was wondering if you know what im doing wrong. i can turn the hazards on and they blink but when i try hiting the signal it dont work. thanks for any help.
A: Don't always trust new parts. Just because its new, that doesn't mean it works. It could be a problem within the steering column where the signal arm enters. If the hazards are flashing that means they work, its more of a problem of it not knowing when to work. Hence, the signal arm.
Q: I just replaced the clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing and pilot shaft bearing. When I removed the trans I noticed the pilot shaft bearing had no rollers in it the pilot shaft was alowed to wobble in the bearings race about 1/4" around center of the shaft. The shift fork looked straight no bends, the cable moves freely with no fraying. I removed the quadrant on the self adjusting mechansim it looks fine so does the pawl. I adjusted the clutch mechenism to its highest point this alowed the gears to be shifted but the clutch does not disengage fully. What could cause this? I do not know of any other adjustments on this clutch. The clutch pedal has to be pushed hard against the firewall but the gear is hard to pull. It feels like trying to change gears with the clutch pedal pushed just enough to start disengagement of the clutch on a properly working car. The clutch also grabs an 1/8" from the floor board.
A: May be the flywheel has worn to excess or has it been skimmed too far.
Q: It sounds like bearings, but I just re-packed them.
I was wondering what would cause a squeaking noise when I make a left hand turn, but the sound goes away when I straighten the wheel.
Can you help?
A: Rest your foot just enough on the brake pedal to start the brakes, but not enough to slow the car... if the squeak stops..... it is the brake pads... Ed
Q: Changed the gasket for the valve cover. Had to remove air, throttle body to change.
Worked great, except won't change gear till it reaches 3500 rpm used to be 2500rpm, also hums in between 2500 and 3500 rpm.
I think all hoses are connected..... there are three cables hooked up to the throttle.
It's a 2.3 liter engine.
A: I would check the adjusment of those cables.... sounds like the problem was created in there..... Ed
Q: When sitting still, white smoke comes from
tailpipes & the car is loafing & I have to
refill the radiator with a gallon of water once
a week under normal driving conditions. There
is no apparent water leaks from anywhere under
Electrical / Lighting Systems Upgrade Not applicable Not applicable
Q: i just converted my 2.3 liter mustang to a 5.0 liter v8. I converted the fuel lines, fuel rails,exhaust and other things that had to be switched.
The computer Harness and Electrical stuff is what is getting me. Can a 5.0 computer and computer harness work with the rest of the existing mustang wires.
Will the car run if i do this? Can you give me an idea on what to do, and would that module and harness be compatible?
A: If you get a wiring harness from a V8 Mustang that is the same year as your vehicle (eg. a 88 harness from a donor car would go into your car if it was an 88!) You'll have no problems. If on the other hand, you obtain a different year harness than what your car is, you just need to have a look at two plugs on the driver side near the firewall. A grey and black plug will be there, these wires should match color for color, if not, you'll have to move the pins (wires) around inside the plug to get them to match. Hope this helps.
Q: What is the problem with the engine when the oil pump goes out, and then the engine begins to make a knocking noise?
A: Matt.... the oil pump is the same as your heart pump... it provides the oil flow and therefore the lubrication to coat the metal parts so the slide past each other instead of rubbing together... getting hot spots and then starting to weld themselves together..... the knock is most likely a bearing damaged..... Ed
Q: Is it possible to change out the 4cyl 2.3L engine in my 1987 Ford Mustang with an 8 cylinder engine.... w/o major problems?
And if it is possible, what type of 8 cylinder engine would fit best and would be easy to find? Thank you.
A: A 5.0 litre is the switch but no it is not easy...suspension, steering, cooling system, transmission and all wiring to and from the computer......large job requiring complete parts car...Ed
Q: While driving the Mustang, I shifted into 4th gear (around 35 MPH or so, a normal shift), and when I pressed the clutch pedal, I heard something make a noise, it was like a clunk, from the underneath of the Mustang.
The vehicle barely stayed in gear until I got to my destination, at which point, when it was stopped, it would no longer move.
While it was moving, I could (slowly) accelerate, but if I tried to go anymore than what it decided it would handle, it would feel like it was slipping out out gear, much like what an automatic "feels" like when it slips.
I've been told that it is either the pressure plate, gear box, or throwout bearing by those I've described the problem to, I would like to know if anyone agrees.
Please email me at email@example.com if anyone knows, as well as posting an answer, I may not check this often. Thanks!
A: Sounds like the clutch unit to me. Either way it has to come apart to find out. Ed
Drive Train / Driveline Upgrade Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I would like to know if it is possible to put a manual T-5 trasmission into my 1987 mustng that originally came with an automatic..if so what do I need to proceed with this project...reasonfor concern is that I know the cable that runs from the quadrant to the trans go's through the firewall and I know it bolts to the firewall opening and auto's dont have that opening through the firewall that is whyI would like to know to how to do this?
A: I take it you have a 5.0, I changed a fox body mustang 5.0 from auto to manual. It was a 79 and I put an 85 T-5 in it with an 84 engine. 79-93 have the same body (fox body). The only major difference is newer style interior, different rear bumper, front grilland hood, headlights and tail lights.
-For the cable going through the firewall; There should be a hole plugged by a rubber gromet. Make sure yours does have the whole. If so, you poke a whole in the center of the gromet, feed the cable through it and screw the cable braket into the fire wall at the best suitable position.
Things you need.
-manual transmission mount. (the crossmember is the same.)
-Pedal assembly from a stang with a manual transmission, preferably a 1987 in your case(one that has a clutch pedal, all the pedals share the same braket.)
The hardest part is cutting a small portion of the metal dash braket out in order for the manual trans pedal braket to fit. The pully adjustment for the clutch cable goes where that braket is on an auto. Just use a hax saw. It doesn't weaken the dash support and you can't see the part you cut off. Your dash support braket may not be in the way though since it is a 1987 model with the newer style dash.
-The shifter bolts up the same as the auto. You just have to get the plastic piece that goes around the shifter boot from a manual car to fit your consule.
Easier to put the shifter on after you bolt up the trans to the engine and before you bolt it to the crossmember by placing it down through the floor. Tight space, but not hard.
-You will have to have the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel for that transmission and a pilot bearing to fit into the 87 engine block. The pilot bearing is in the center of the fly-wheel.
Make sure the clutch and pressure plate are centered with the pilot bearing by using a socket or a proper tool used to center it with the bearing. Otherwise the shaft on the trans. will not fit into the pilot bearing properly.
-I am not sure, I think the axle from the auto is to long and or the spline is different where it goes into the trans, so you might need the axle from a manual, other than that it bolts up to the differential the same. Measure the axles and check the splines, the axles come out very easy. (4 bolts and and you slide it out.)
-You will have to change your speedometer gear on the end of the speedometer cable, or it won't match up with the other gear in the manual trans. Auto and manual speedo gears are different and if you don't have the right one the speedometer will not read correctly.
There is a formula that you use to see what number of teeth and what color the cable gear should be.
By using the tire measurements, gear size in the differential (5.0 probably 8.5 inch ring gear), the number of teeth on the speedo drive gear in the trans.
The ford garage should be able to help you there. You probably won't have as much trouble getting a match. I did since I changed the gears in my differential. I had to change the cable gear and the drive gear in the tail of the trans.
All of this sounds hard, but I was surprised how easy it was even though I learned all of this as I went.
If you have another questions, email me and I will TRY to help. Jerry_j_usa@hotmail.com
Q: When idling, the car runs very roughly, and idles erratically.
If I put my hand completely over the carburetor, the engine runs smoothly.
This 2.3 Mustang has a 4 speed manual transmission.
Help?? Thank you.
A: Sounds like a large vacuum leak. When the carburetor is covered, the engine sees the correct air/fuel mixture.
Look for a hissing sound, disconnected vacuum lines, or a broken vacuum line fitting into the carburetor.
Q: I want to remove the ignition control module to see if it is bad, but I cannot seem to remove the power steering pump that sits in the way of removing the bolts that attach the module to the bottom of the carburetor. Help!
A: Attach the module to the bottom of the carb or the distributer?.... What kind of engine system are you working on?
Q: I want to remove the ignition control module to see if it is bad, but I cannot seem to remove the power steering pump that sits in the way of removing the bolts that attach the module to the bottom of the distributor.
It has a 2.3 liter - 4 cylinder engine and the module is located on the underside of the distributor.
If I cannot remove the power steering pump, how will I be able to remove the module?
A: Remove the complete distributor......
Once it is on the bench, it is not a problem... Ed
Q: When idling the carburator is gettin too much fuel and runs rough. (2.3 liter 4 cyl.) It smooths out at about 3000 rpm, or at idle.
It has a new fuel pump and fuel filter. I have tried 2 different 1 barrel carburators and get the same results.
A: Check for restriction in the fuel return line.... Ed
When im accelerating, the engine sounds like its backfiring, and it chuggs alittle. I have white smoke coming out of the exhaust at times as well as black smoke some times too. The exhaust seems louder than usual from right underneath the cab, way before the muffler, almost close to the engine. I just fixed a vacuum leak in the carburetor, hoping that would fix it. It also seems like it is consuming fuel at double the rate it should. the engine is a 2.3L 4 cylinder. The tranny is an automatic. Any help you can give me would be more than apreciated! Its driving me nuts because I cant drive my baby around!
your faithful 'stang lovin dude,
A: Perhaps, has the timing belt jumped a tooth? Also, check to see if the catalytic convertor is plugged. Ed
Ignition System Upgrade Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I have a 1986 Ford Mustang that had a 2.3litre 4 cylinder in it. I had a 302 built for it and did the swap with parts from a wrecked '89 GT. Well that was 3 years ago. I had gotten a dual points distributor used at a flea market and it works great. But I had the engine fresh end up 2 months ago and I am now having problems with it breaking up over 6000 rpms. The machine shop told me it was from my distributor. Well I was wondering if I have all the original wiring from the original 4 cylinder still in my garage and I found no difference in the module or pickup coil. I came across a MSD distributor for a the 5.0 litre Mustangs using the stock wirng and would like to drop this in.
I was wondering if you could help me by telling me what I would need to do this? Or should I just break down and buy a Mallory Unlite Distributor? Any insight on this would much appreciated.
A: Mallory with the diagram for wiring is the fast accurate solution.. takes the guesswork out... Ed
Drive Train / Driveline Upgrade Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I need to do some rear end work to my '86 Mustang, but I was told by 5 people that I have either a 8.8 or 7.5 rear. Noone is sure, but I wonder if you could tell me how to tell the differences between them?
If I do have an 8.8, I will rebuild it and go from there. If I have a 7.5 I'll toss it in the pile with my other throw aways.
Any info would help me out
A: Check the tag on the rear axle if that doesn't work you will need to measure the ring gear.
Q: There is about a 1/4 inch of dead spot in the pedal when you go to accelerate from a stand still it stalls unless you feather the gas pedal also when driving and holding a constant speed it seems to cut in and out real jerky its almost like power/no power.
A: Check the basics first--plugs, wires, fuel. The TPS is a likely candidate for this symptom. It acts like the accelerator pump on a carburator. If yours is fuel injected, check the voltage sweep with a lab scope if possible or wioth a scanner. If have experienced on 2 of my T-Birds a crazy idle, stalling and dying. The TPS was bad. Check for service bulletins on this.
Windows / Glass Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: When it rains, there is a lot of water that is coming in. It seems to be leaking in where the t-top meets the window, near the dack edge. My husbnd has applied some clear CRV to the joint, but he also thinks that the weight of the door itself is causing the gap. We are having a hard time finding the materials to replace the "rubber gaskets" around the t-top and door fame. Could you give me a specific company to check with? Thank you
A: the time you & your husband spent going and purchasing crv, not to mention the headache, could be avoided by taking it to an auto glass repair shop in your city.If you don't you take the chance of runing your interior, which in fact will cost to get repaired;then your left with interior cost,time wasted,14 tube of crv,and a leak that's not fixed.
Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When driving Always
Q: My Mustang has a V8 in it... and I recently replaced the transmission with a used one in good condition.
It worked for about a month with no problem, but now when I'm in drive, it won't change gears, it just stays in first.
Is it a linkage problem? Please help!
A: Hard to say...... try disconnecting the linkage (assuming the car is on GOOD quality jack stands) and try moving the linkage by hand through the ranges.....
If it works, then yes, you have a shift linkage problem...
I suspect not.... My guess would be that you broke the forward cluth band internally but that of course, is only a guess.... Ed
Q: There is a wire that leaves the solenoid from the positive terminal that within a minute after starting, starts to get hot and smoke.
It appears that this happened before.
If we leave it hooked up, it will drain the battery overnight. we had to replace the alternator and solenoid already.
What is this wire? with it disconnected, the car won't start and the lights won't come on.
It is attached to 2 wires, a heavier(12 ga) and a smaller. the heavier is yellow. What could be causing it to overheat and meltdown?
A: Check to see if it is shorted to ground it probably is
I had a similar problem with my '82 mustang GLX. The problem was that a wire was hanging down on the engine block; the wire of course melted and shorted out on the engine block. If I were you, here's the steps that I would take:
Equipment: patience, Simple Green (tm), one of those AVO meters, basic electrical repair stuff.
1) take the air cleaner manifold off for easier access to all the wiring
2) unplug the battery from the vehicle. hell, you may as well take it out for easier access to the voltage regulator
3) clean every wire that you see with Simple Green thoroughly. Take off the electrical tape, remove the flextubing, and really get in there, cleaning every wire. If any plugs are dirty, clean the connections, even use an awl pick to get every speck out. If any wires are cracked, loose or disconnected, you should obviously patch it. Don't use twist-on connecters, use the cylindrical ones that you pinch closed. Make certain that you wrap everything back up with new electrical tape when done. (This should be done about every 5 years anyway, and I doubt you've done it). Spray armor-all on the wiring insulation if you'd like; I don't but some people I've spoken to swear by it for long lasting instualtion.
4) Reconnect the POSITIVE cable to the battery, leave the NEGATIVE cable disconnected. Turn the AVO meter to Volts. Touch the positive lead to a good bare metal point on the body, and the negative lead to the negative terminal. If there is any charge registers, you still have a short circut. If no charge, you've fixed the problem and you may quit now. otherwise, go on to step 5.
5) Pull out all the fuses in the fuse panel, repeat step 4, and plug in the fuses one-by-one, checking for a short every time until you have tracked down which circut has a short. Then check the wires on that system.
6) You can see why mechanics charge so much for this sort of problem. It's frusturating and takes a great deal of time. It can be extremely helpful to have the wiring manual for your vehicle (DUH!). Anything beyond the steps I have provided are getting too complicated for the weekend mechanic.
Q: When you turn the key it doesn't click or do anything. It has a new starter, and starter solenoid, new ground cable to starter.
Wondering if you might be able to give me any hints what it might be.
The only way to start it is to turn on the key and put it in neutral and pop start it then the car will run. But I need help on finding out why the car can't be started by key.
A: If power flows through the solenoid to the starter, and still no starter engagement, you need a starter....
If however no power goes to the solenoid when you turn the key, the problem is on the ignition switch side of the system...... Ed
Q: I own a 1982 Mustang LE, and when starting or accelerating, black smoke is obvious in the rear view mirror. I've tried several grades of gasoline and the smoking still continues. It's only a four cylinder and there has been nothing modified.
Also, will 1982 GT fenders and other body parts fit properly? I'm aware that GT's were hatchback. So the boot is out, but what about the hood, fenders, air dam, etc?
A: I think you are okay on the body mods... The black smoke is way to much gasoline.. flooding.... Ed
Ignition System Malfunction When stopped When warm
Q: After coming to a stop, the engine quits immediately without sputtering, and restarts immediately.
Changed coil with no difference. Gas is good - 10% alcohol blend.
Runs fine while driving; only happens occasionally when I stop at a light and idle drops down.
Cap is dry and in good shape...points look fine, too. Wires all tight. Fuel filter looks clean.
Engine is in '51 pickup.
A: Is there an idle kicker solenoid on the side of the carb?????.......also if you have a points type ignition in a 1978 engine...you may have timing issues that need adjusting.......Ed
Q: Do you have any suggestions to upgrade this Mustang to make it quicker, without spending a lot of cash?
The driving and acceleration seem a bit sluggish, I believe it needs to be tuned up at least.
This is a 73' Mustang with a 76' 302 2bbl engine that I just purchased. Thank you.
A: All sorts of doors open to you here....first sit and have a quiet beer and decide before starting how much money you are willing to spend, and exactly what you want to accomplish...
With a figure, we can advise if you like.....Ed
Q: I was hit on the right-side quarter panel area. Now it seems as though I have had problems with the suspension. I've had my '68 Mustang for 10 years now and have had no major problems until I got into this accident a couple years ago.
It seems as though when in a right hand turn, sometimes the steering seems to bind up. I've been told my steering box needs to be replaced as there are no more adjustments. Some other piece that conects to the steering box has to be replaced also.
This one part I was quoted price $250.00 for re-built part. My front springs also need to be changed.
The sad thing about the springs is the new springs have been sitting in my car for over a year now.
Finding a honest and reasonable mechanic to do the job is my biggest problem.
When I drive on the freeway and reach the speed of 75, the car shakes uncontrolable and gets difficult to control.
Can yo help me???????????
A: This in not a NEW ford problem.....
The old-type Ford steering has a valving assembly at the end of the pitman arm for activating the power steering.
I suspect this valving is getting worn. This may be some of TWO of your problems.
If this valve is worn excessively, when you return your wheel to straight ahead from a turn position (right hand in your case), the valve doesn't DISENGAGE the power assist, and the hydraulic may be holding the wheel right.
Additionally, this wear may allow the wheels to vibrate from side to side as the vehicle travels down the road.
Have a mechanic check this valve. Replacements are available, but are expensive.
You might also look at replacing the valve with one from a newer Granada or Monarch.... these are similar assemblies... and I have been told they can be made to work on older Mustangs.
Good Luck. PS Your springs will NOT be harmed by being stored in the front seat.... when you put them in, they will work just like new.
All Part Groups Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: Need to replace the original instruments (all) and would like to know the correct size and manufacturer of aftermarket instruments and gauges for this application.
A: That is a hunt and find project for you. First, measure them, and then get the specs from the gauge guys. Once you've done this, you can try using the All-Parts "Aftermarket" blue "Buyers" button to the left of this screen. Ed
Q: I recently rebuilt a 200cid engine. All seemed to be
operating fine at first, but now has developed a tapping
sound similiar to a lifter out of adjustment.
I put in a new camshaft, lifters, rocker arms, push rods,
and head rebuilt when I initially rebuilt the engine. Any
suggestions as to where to locate the source of the tapping
A: A long screwdriver held handle end to your ear and
pointed metal end moved around the area of the sound
will locate the exact area of the noise source and help
you with decisions.
Obviously, hold the screwdriver very securely with one
hand on each end ......Ed
Q: Where can I find information about the paint offered in 67 for a reg. 289 mustang?
A: The original paint codes for your car are on an aluminum thin metal plate attatched to the fire wall...... other than that, I would internet my way to a Mustang Car Club and pick their brains and database.... Ed
Q: I would like to upgrade my 1 bbl carb to a 2 bbl. Is this possible, and what is the best carb to use for this? Thank you.
A: I think you mean a 2 bbl up to a 4 bbl...... and you'll need to change the intake manifold also to make it work properly.
I am assuming you have a V-8 engine.... If so, about a 600 cfm carb works great....... Ed
Q: I want to install a 396 (or a 383 stroker) big block in my mustang. The car is a 6 cylinder automatic. What do I have to replace in order to fit this engine in this car. I have all the tools and basic know how.
A: A chevy engine will destroy both the value and the suspension of this car......if you can get a complete 5.0 litre parts car....including the electronics and computer system.....then add nitros oxide fogger system. Fast ride. Ed
Exhaust System Upgrade Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I want to buy some new headers for my 66 6-cyl mustang (200 cubic inches), so I was wondering where and how much I can get some.
How much is too much to pay, what's a good price and what brands are best?
A: Well, there are a lot of different ways to figure costs....
Like starting with one modification just because , and then changing something else and then maybe a few other things as we think of them and this is usually rewarded with a far from satisfactory result.....
Or we can spend the first $1.00 on a scribbler book and use our imagination with a pen.... designing the finished product.
From the plan will come the first and second and all the rest of the changes...
From the design you'll get the brand(s) that best suit your needs for the results you want.... there will be several that fit your needs... and go from there depending on accessibility, price, etc..... good luck.... Ed
Q: I have a '66 Mustang I converted from I6 to V8. I pulled the engine and transmission out of a '67 Mercury Cougar standard version. It is a 289 with a 3 speed manual transmission. I do not have all the numbers off the transmission, but it did have a large C stamp on the side. The speedometer mount is in the drivers side upper middle part of the trans.
I do not remember what color the gear was that came out of it, but I do know that the white gear out of a '66 cruise-o-matic (6cyl) automatic does not fit.
I am having a terrible time trying to figure out which speedometer gear I need. I have asked many sources, but no one has an answer. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
A: Stop at any well known automatic transmission shop and tell them that you have a '66 mustang with a 3 spd manual transmission car.....
You will need to know the rear end gear ratio.....
The problem is that the much different rear ratio is hard to match a gear for....
Q: What cam shaft should I use on a 289 cc v8 motor with a holley 400 carbie fitted??
It won't idle properly, and stalls when putting into drive.
I think it has a tq20 cam at moment.
A: A quick check for you is to take a vaccuum reading at idle......
If the vaccuum is below 16 or 17 inches at idle, and fluctuating wildly, the cam is to steep.....
If it's low but steady, you'll soon be chasing a vaccuum leak problem.
If it's up around 19 to 21 inches, you have a fuel problem flooding or starving at idle.... Ed
Q: When I'm on the freeway going 75-80 my car starts to lose horsepower like it's not geting enough gas.
I changed the cap, rotor, spark plugs, put carb. cleaner in the gas tank and sprayed gum out on the carb.
And I also changed the fuel pump.
I need help... summer is coming and I'm slowing down! If you could help that would be great..
A: I would check the float level in the carb....
If it's set low or if there is a restriction in the inlet part of the carb, you're right...
It sounds like you are running out of gas.... Ed
Chassis / Suspension & Steering Upgrade Not applicable Not applicable
Q: How often should an idler arm be replaced?
A: So many variables here....
From quality of part, to installer care, to greasing it properly, to how the car is used, etc, etc, etc.....
In general, every couple of years or so on that car most likely as light duty suspension.... Ed
Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens always Always
Q: Mechanic said the fan clutch was bad. Now, he estimated the repair cost just for that to be about $325.
Do not know if anything else is bad on top of that, but it can't be tested till that's fixed.
Do you think I would be better off just buying a new reman Compressor?
A: You wouldn't be better off if the fan clutch is defective...... First things first.... Ed
Brake System Malfunction Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I cannot remove front drums by "just tapping on the back".
In fact, I have whaled on them for hours even used WD-40 to try to break the rust free.
I was going to inspect then to determine if the breaks or the drums need replacement, but now it is to the point I have to replace the because I have hammerred so hard I've knocked chips off the edges.!!!
Any suggestions? Please help!!!
A: Use a small screwdriver through the adjuster slots in the backing plates and "un-adjust" the brakes a long way....... Ed
Electrical / Lighting Systems Upgrade Not applicable Not applicable
I am rebuilding a 1966 Mustang Fastback and have decided to test my skills and have decided to put a 1995 5.0 crate motor in it.
It has a 1989 intake along with wiring harness. My question is, how do I go about hooking up my 1966 wiring harness with my 1989 harness.
If you can help it would be greatly appreciated.
If not, no problem. I'm sure i can figure it out somehow. Thanks a lot.
A: Good luck Joel . Those two wiring harnesses are about as incompatible as you can get . Other than basic instruments , speedometer , temp gauges , etc , your best bet is to repalce all of the wiring with what the '89 engine needs . The '66 Mustang had about as simple an engine as you will find anywhere . Generally they were 289 cubic inch engines , an alternator , battery , very basic emission cotrols , and a Kettering ignition system . That is , the engine used points to break the path to the ignition coil so that the magnetic field could collapse and thus generate the spark voltage . Just be sure that if you can make the change over , that the new engine does not over torque the front end . If this happens , well , at worst , it could kill you because of a sudden loss of control .
Q: The car (a 200 6 cylinder) backfires throught the exhaust.
I lined up the cylinders with the rotor on the distributor
and the engine compression is good.
I've also checked the distributor cap and there is a
good spark at points and plugs.
What next?? Thanks.
A: If the backfires happen on deceleration of the car, it's
probably an exhaust leak that lets fresh air into the exhaust
and it re-ignites with little backfires.....Ed
Q: I just installed a late model 302 out of a '88 mustang and put it in my '65.
The engine has started many times, sometimes it starts right up with no hesatation, other times, the engine will crank for a few seconds before turning over.
I haven't set the timing yet, but I know it's pretty close.
Now I can't get the car to to turn over, all it does is crank.
A friend told me that it may be the ignition switch is bad. Is that true? I know the battery is good, it reads 12.22 volts, and I tried jumping the car, and that didn't work either.
Do you know what the problem is?
Thanks, Chase Stewart
A: Chase...... what did you do about the differences in ignition systems from the 1988 back to the 1965?....
Also, what about the fuel injection from the 88?... is it converted to the carburetor system or?....
Let us know how you mixed and matched, and we'll go from there.... Ed
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: My brake lights do not work unless the headlights are on.
I took it to an auto electric repairman who told me I need to replace the right turn signal.
Is this true? And how much should the part cost?
A: Hard to say from the info the repairman gave you, but my instincts tell me that the brakelights are getting their power scource from the headlights somehow......
I would remove the signal bulbs on the right side, and find out what it takes to make the brake lights work.... Ed
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving Always
Q: My problem is with the speedometer. The speedometer isn't showing a steady speed. The needle sways back and for sometimes all the way from 0 to 120 mostly around 55 to 70 at highway speeds of I would guess 65mph. Also the odometer doesn't work. I took the whole part out of the dash and found that the cable that connects to the speedometer isnt acutally connected but is pushed inside the part and secured by another cable that surrounds it. this cable would only work if it were to be used like a key pushed inside a slot which was used to turn the appropriate mechanism inside.
Is this the way the cable is supposed to be connected or is the cable broken off on the inside? Should I buy a new(used) speedometer or can this be fixed on the existing one?
A: The odometer broken means a new (used) unit is required... click a blue buyers button on http://all-parts.com
The sway needle problem is with the cable being dry....... lube it with graphite liquid or replace it..... Ed
Brake System Upgrade Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I'm thinking of upgrading the drum brakes that I currently have to disc brakes. In the kit that I'm considering buying it says that a 6 cyl. car needs to have a spindle and suspension change. What do I need to change these items to?
A: You will need the spindle assembly's that came for the V-8 models. Ed
Q: The 289ci with 2100 autolite carb keeps surging
when started and driving. It shuts off regularly. I have looked for a vacuum leak, and cannot find or hear one, the head gaskets have been replaced. When started, it won't run unless you keep giving it gas.
The pvc valve has also been replaced. I am pretty sure I have the timing right, and all the plugs are firing.
Also the alt light stays on, and the alternator won't charge on since I put the alternator back on.
I marked the wires prior to the removal, but the ink rubbed off the tape before I put the alternator back on. I thought I reconnected everthing right, but maybe not. The alternator worked fine before removing it.
Any idea what wires go to which terminals?
A: F terminal from the voltage regulator F terminal etc, etc Ed
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Not applicable
Q: my instruments lights do not turn on only the oil light and the signal light is just frozen. i tried changing the bulbs but nothing happened. what can i do or whats a good book to check
A: Two things to check, Mike.
First, early mustangs ('72 and older) had a real problem with under - dash ground wires. Seems they are prone to corrosion.
After that, swap out headlight switch with known good unit. Hope this helps.