Ignition System Won't Start Happens sometimes When cold
Q: Intermittent starting problem so far only after sitting aprox.6-8 hrs.Fuel at schrader valve in fuel line seems ok.Pulled no. 2 spk.plug wire and found that I am getting fire there.Had mechanic check and found no tble. codes and never could duplicate trbl.
A: any time i have an intermittent starting problem with no codes and presents of fuel I look at the ing module or crank sensor(first choice)because they usually dont leave codes
Electrical / Lighting Systems Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I have no manual for my truck so I am lost on what the problem might be. I was hooking up lights for a trailer and now I don't have tail lights, brake lights or parking lights. The fuses all seem to be ok. Can you suggest anything else?
A: have you checked "trailer light fuses" under the hood on the driver side fender well?
Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: I have had the tranny out on my Ranger on 4 seperate occasions. First it was for a rebuild, due to a slip in 2-3. A reverse drum, cluches, and a rebuild kit was needed. The trans worked good for about a month, then continued to slip again in 2-3. So it was removed again and gone throuh, finding a bearing had come free and torn up the sun gear, along with another drum. At this point the cluches had burnt spots but no sign of wear, and were reused. Immediatley it slipped again in 2-3. It was then pulled again and pressure tested to see if a seal had been torn causing the slip, but everything was tight. It was put back in and continued to do the same slip. So the next slip was to test it with a trans tester, in which all mecanical aspects were in proper working order. The valve body was then removed to try to see if there was a sticky valve, or improper operation with in, however, everything was ok. Then a tsb was found in which the trans would slpi after a rebuild if the "I" and "H" cluches were not in proper positions. Knowing this the trans was removed and taken apart to place the cluches in the proper area, also the burnt cluches were replaced. The trans was reassembled and placed back in the ranger. The results were the same problem, a 2-3 slip, with no improvement. I am now stuck, looking for any suggestions. Thank You EDDY
A: You may have a flaw or hairline crack in the case. Does not show but leaks pressure during operation. Ed
Q: When it's humid or very hot outside, when starting the engine, it will idle very low, to the point that it will not run unless I keep my foot on the gas pedal. Sometimes after driving a while, it will straighten out, somethimes not.
A: Remove and clean the idle air control motor and channel.. disconnect the negative battery cable for a minute and then enjoy.... Ed
Electrical / Lighting Systems Making Noise Happens sometimes Always
Q: It is the sound when you have the key in the ignition and the door open but when i shut the door, the light stays on and the dinging keeps going.
Sometimes it only last for a couple of minutes be sometimes it stays on for the whole time i am driving. Do you have any idea why it does this and is there anyway that i can fix it?
A: I think it is the module that should get the "cancel" signal when the key is turned to the "on" position. Ed
Q: The o/d light is flashing, and the transmission is not changing into overdrive.
A: When the o/d light starts flashing that means the transmissiion is operating in failure mode.
Check computer error codes for possible faults.
Solutions range from loose wire to a complete
rebuild. Sometimes a thorough flush is all that is needed.
Q: The temp gauge would only go up about an eighth of an inch even after driving for an hour or so..
So I decided to change the thermostat.
I got a 195 temp thermostat from NAPA.
Took the old one out, and it was closed when I removed it.
Put the new one in with the sensor to the block.
Filled the radiator checked for leaks.
Put the radiator cap back on and started the engine.
Also added some antifreeze to the over flow container, it was a little over the full mark but I left it go.
After a while the temp gauge started to go up.
I left if idle for maybe 5 min. and then I gunned the engine a few times but not to fast.
After a while it seamed like a little bit of the antifreeze wanted to come from under the radiator cap so I tightened the cap.
About then the upper radiator hose sucked itself completely tight.
Now itís sitting there with the hose sucked tight.
What did I do wrong, or how can I correct this problem?
Dave I Pa
A: check if that thermo is the right temp rating for your car, than have the radiator steamed out, may be blockage, also is there the right coolant mixture in your system?
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: My speedometer is jumping all over the place or simply resting on the dash when I'm driving.
When it goes nuts I can hear a high pitched whine.
I know it's connected to my drivetrain, but I have not felt any loss of power or chugging.
A: Possibe stripped gear in the transmission tail shaft assembly....
If you are lucky, the stripped gear will be the cable gear, and not the gear inside the transmission.... Ed
Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction Happens always Not applicable
Q: The clutch is bleeding off and losing fluid but there is no fluid on the ground. To get the clutch to work, you have to pump it up.
What we want to know is what the problem is, and the parts we need to fix it. thanx.
A: Most likely it's the master cylinder.... sounds like an internal leak. Check then replace the master cylinder.
Fuel System Won't Start Not applicable Not applicable
Q: When i try to start my truck it won't start. I had it started for the first time for about 3 secounds. Then i tried to give it a little gas and nothen happen so i gave it a lot and still nothen happen. So I think it has something to do with the fuel pump?
A: pinch off the fuel return line to check if its leaking back doWn past the pressure regulator if it runs thats your problem replace it. check the fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gage first i would replace the fuel filter it may be clogged.
Q: The truck's accelerator would stick if pushed to the floor, then it started to race when it was started. It has a 3.0 engine.
I took out the accelerator cable and now can't find one anywhere.
The cable coiled up when it was taken out, can it be fixed?
Ford parts says they stopped making that part in April.
Any ideas where we can find one? Was that the problem, or did we just make a huge mistake?
A: Ford has a computer sourcing system.
A "Vehicle off the Road" system that will check all of the other Dealers in the system for a part. Also, you may be able to locate it in the All-Parts system by using the Blue "Buyers" Button to the left of this screen. Ed
Drive Train / Driveline Upgrade Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I have a ford 7.5" open rear end I am overhauling.
I need to get directions on how to completely disassemble the differintial, install new bearings, ring and pinion gear.
The manual I have sucks on this part. If you can e-mail me @ email@example.com. I would appreciate it. If you could e-mail me directions that would be great.
A: Consult the back of the owners manual for related manuals, or call ford.
Ignition System Malfunction Happens sometimes Not applicable
Q: I am having an intermittant timing problem with my 3.0lV6. It runs ok sometimes then acts like it jumps time-runs rough, no power, shakes like crazy. The dealer cannot find the problem and just keeps swapping parts. So far I have replaced; distributor, cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires, mass air flow sensor, throttle position sensor, ignition pickup sensor (in distributor), ignition control module. i verified base timing at 10 BTDC per ford manual. Truck runs ok with spout jumper removed(ignition control turned off) but goes back to running rough when it is reinstalled. HELP! there are no parts left to change in the ignition system...What could it be???
A: Find a used ecu for your truck. Did you check fuel delivery pressure? if not, buy a tester(gage)and install it in the cab so you can see what pressure you fuel pump is running at when the problem comes back.
Q: the oil pump drive gear wears out and strips after 50 to 100 miles. This has happen twice, a
new oil pump was used in each occasion. This is a 2.3L engine with fuel injection and distributorless ignition.
A: Pump is binding , some how . There may also be foreign material in the oil sump . Remove the oil pan and make sure that this area is clean and there is nothing falling into the pan from the engine .
Q: I have a manual transmission 4 cyl. When going up a small or steep grade, I seem to loose power. You can here the engine speed up and slow down. It also seem to have less power in general. I have changed oil, spark plugs, tranmission fluid, and fuel filter. What do you suggest
A: If the engine is reving onthe hills then you need a clutch,the 2.3 engine is very under powered partly because of the gearing,this vechile was always a source of complaints because of it
Ignition System Won't Start Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I CAN'T START MY TRUCK. WHEN KEY IS TURNED IT MAKES ONE CLICK THEN NOTHING. I CHECKED THE STARTER RELAY AND STARTER. MY MANUAL SAYS IT IS EITHER THE IGNITION SWITCH OR THE STARTER/ CLUTCH INTERLOCK SWITCH. IT GIVES DESCRIPTION FOR CHECKING THE STARTER/ CLUTCH INTERLOCK BUT GIVES NO MEANS OF TESTING IGNITION SWITCH, NOR DOES IT GIVE ITS LOCATION. IS THE IGNITION SWITCH THE KEY SWITCH? IF SO, HOW DO I REPLACE IT?
A: Yes, it is the key switch. To replace it, remove the trim from the steering column by removing the bolts/screws from the bottom and gently seperating the two peices of the trim. Locate the switch.
If equipped with an airbag do not attempt removal of the steering wheel if you have no knowledge of disarming the system!
Disconnect all electrical connections from the switch. Remove all bolts from the switch and remove it. Installation is reverse of removal.
Note:Some ignition switches are held in place by rivets in addition to bolts, this will require drilling them out and using a rivet gun to replace them. Also the steering wheel may require removal depending on accessability.
Q: The oil pressure drops all the way down to the red. This happens after having driven a few miles. It stays in the red until I begin to accelerate again!
My truck is a 2.9L.
This is a recently remanufactured engine, it has less than a thousand miles on it, it has a new oil pump, and all the sensors are new.
The pick-up screen is the old one, but it was cleaned very well! What do you think the problem could be???
A: Before you have driven many more miles, get the oil pressure tested using a real direct pressure oil guage...
If the oil pressure is actually what your in truck gauge says, the oil pump or camshaft bearing or mainbearings have a problem......
Do not wait... Do this now as serious damage may be happening as you drive..... Ed
Q: I believe there is no spark to start the truck, and I wonder.... since it's a DIS system a 2.3 engine....
If it's either the computer or the ignition coil on the intake side of the truck? And how would I check these out??
Thank you. Jackie Hill
A: Check at the coil for power in, and then the other side of the coil for power switching on and off..... switched by the computer... Ed
Ignition System Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: 2.3 liter 4 cylinder (8 spark plugs), Fuel inj., manual trans., electronic ignition (2 distributors)
The timing belt broke. The camshaft timing mark is obvious. Where are the crankshaft and other gear timing marks? A picture would be most helpful.
Also how do I set the timing with 2 distributors and electronic ignition or do I even need to?
A: You dont need to set the timing, the pcm does it but you have to set the timing on the "TIMING BELT"
Q: when I am down shifting to come to a stop the rpm drop and the engine stalls but not all the time i have had a tune up and have changed the ignition module it has a 2.9 5speed and it happens mostly when it is warm .
A: sounds as though your throttle body and idle speed control soliniod are dirty,clean out or replace ,it makes a huge difference
Q: I was driving and my pickup's engine quit. I suspect it is something in the fuel system, because the truck will turn over, and if I spray in starter fluid, the truck will start, run for 2-3 seconds, then die.
I have replaced the fuel filter. What now? Where is my fuel pump located? (Do I even have one?)
A: The pump is in the gas tank. Check for 12 volt signal to pump during engine cranking. If you have 12 volts and no fuel pressure the pump is bad. If you don't have twelve volts the problem could be fuel pump relay or ignition.
If you actually have fuel pressure, you need to check for injector pulse. Lack of pulse is ignition signal or computer related.
Q: It will run for a minute then die. I have replaced the control module,distributor,wires,fuel relay switch, and brain under the dash. When I turn on key it sounds like the fuel pump is running but when I check the valve stem it only puts out air.
Q: I have a 88 Ford Ranger Pick Up 4 wheel drive with fuel a injected 2.3l. Can I put a '96 2.3 engine in it?
I have all the injection system of the '96 plus all wiring harnesses and the control module.
Would it be possible to just plug everything into the original computer? or will I have to change everything over? and if so, would it be easier to change out the old intake?
I appreciate any input on this.
A: I think if you treat this as a long block install (head and block unit), use all your original peripherals.....
It's a good swap... the least complicated..... Ed
Q: My 1988 Ford Ranger suddenly stalled while driving . It was running flawlessly, but would not restart after the stall.
I have spark at plugs.
Engine cranks, cranks, cranks.
Seems like a fuel problem. Fuel pump doesn't seem to come on when cranking the engine. However, bypassing the fuel pump relay does activate the fuel pump. FP relay passes test in Haynes Fuel System Manual. (clicks when controlling circuit leads are powered with fused battery current). FP does pump gas when gas line is removed and powered by bypassing the relay. Will also pump through gas filter.
A: You need to check for the problem before the relay from power source. Ed
Ignition System Malfunction When starting When cold
Q: When I start the car it will not do anything. It has a brand new battery, but it acts as if it won't do anything. As I was trying to jump it off I saw smoke come up from the area around the battery.
A: It sounds as if your starter solenoid is stuck. Replace the solenoid and both battery cables and try again. If you hear a "click" when you try and start it, but nothing else, STOP! Your starter is frozen up causing the solenoid to overheat and stick in the "start" position overheating your cables, battery, etc. Replace the starter if this happens.
Good luck and happy motoring!
Q: Is it possible to replace the oil pan gasket on a 1987 Ford Ranger 2wd/ 2.3/ 5spd without removing the engine?
Also what size are the hold down bolts for the oil pump on the 2.3 engine, I managed to remove the front bolt, the bolt closest to the pickup seems smaller and differant as I am unable to grasp onto it with a standard socket?
A: You can remove the trans it is easier, 10 mm or 13 mm
Q: Truck was abandoned with cracked cylinder head. It starts fine but has no power to accelerate. With accelerator flat to the floor, the truck will only run at 5 to 10 mph.
The compression test shows 140psi to 155psi on all 6 cylinders. Suspected ignition timing but this checked out fine.
Could camshaft timing be out or just the timing marks on the pulley?
A: Try adjusting timing by "ear".
While engine idling, advance and retard slowly until engine runs freely, smoothly.
Then roadtest for power.... Ed
Q: The truck will be going down the road and it will die, and the tach will go to the floor. But if I pump the pedal a couple of times, it will come back.
Before it does this, there is a pop that comes from the engine compartment. what could this be?
A: Sounds almost like it is running out of fuel...... check the fuel pressures..... Ed
Q: Where are the timing marks with cover off this 4 banger. Is front cylinder #1. Truck is not used
much. has 79,000 miles. it turns over as it has no compression, but it back fired as it is out of time. Also, is the bolt in bottom pulley a right handed thread. I assume it has to come off to put a new belt on. Thanks
A: Yes for the pully off. Yes front is #1 and the marks are on the cam and crank gears. Ed
Q: I have a 86 ford ranger 2.3 liter 4 cylinder and the timing is way off!
I pulled the plastic cover off to tighten a pulley, well... the cover was broken and I pulled it off.
When I went to start it, and a piece of plastic was in the belt and it made the timing jump.
So how do I put the timing back into spec?
A: You buy a new timing belt and pick up a $15 dollar manual. Haynes or Chilton brands, they both are sufficient for this job.
Q: Ignition key can not open right door lock but works ok with ignition and left door lock.
A: I SUGGEST YOU CHECK THE LOCK LINKAGE ON THE RIGHT DOOR IF YOU HAVE HAD TO HAVE YOUR VEHICLE OPENED BY A SLIM JIM OR COAT HANGER IT MIGHT HAVE KNOCKED THE LINKAGE OFF REMOVE YOUR DOOR PANEL AND YOU SHOULD SEE A METAL ROD GOING INTO THE DOOR LOCK IF NOT THAT IS YOUR PROBLEM
All Part Groups Malfunction When starting Not applicable
Q: The truck will stay running only while you hold the ingnition key on manually. When you let go of the key switch it kills the power.
All of the ignition and column is new and there is power to the coil. If you take the coil wire off the truck will stay running all the time.
I am totally baffled as to what to do next.
A: Needs a new ignition switch or the prsent one adjusted correctly. Ed