Q: The rods that held the trunk open came out. So now the trunk won't stay open..
How can I reinstall these rods and adjust the tension?? Thank you.
A: Yikes..... save your fingers and go to a body shop... they have to install and remove them for body repairs...
The tension built into these rods will have you off work for a long time if you slip and get caught....Ed
Electrical / Lighting Systems Other Happens always Always
Q: The speedometer and the odometer went out. I found that the electrical wires that come off of the speedometer cable/module from the transmission have been cut or ripped . I can't find where the other side of the wires are to hook it back up.
Q: Theres a leak in the radiator, on the bottom of the radiator cap.
I was involved in an accident about a week ago. I don't know if this is the result of it.
Every time before I drive my vehicle I put water in the coolant resevoir.
When I shut off the engine, water spills from the radiator. Help!
A: You need to find out where the leak is and fix it...
If it's a plastic material, you need to replace at least the tank and maybe the complete radiator...
If it's metal, a rad shop can solder it for you.... Ed
Q: Dear Mechanic: I own a 1990 Ford Tempo with 183.000K. The vehicle has been maintained in showroom like condition and has been a great little car to drive.
Lately I have noticed a high pitch whine from the rear of the car and I was told by a mechanic that does my transmission check that he had a Tempo and that this noise was the fuel pump. The wine has got more noticeable over the past two months and with winter almost here I wonder if I should replace it?. I have been quoted anywhere from $375 to $495 (cdn) to replace this unit. As an aside to this, when driving this summer in very hot weather 35 degrees (c) the car stalled just like a vapour lock after 20 minutes of cooling it started up again. Does this sound like a fuel pump symptom to you? or should I be looking for something else.
Any assistance you may offer me in this regard is appreciated my e mail is firstname.lastname@example.org
Mr Lynn B Klein
Victoria BC Canada
A: If the sound is like an angry bee in a tin can, yes the fuel pump is the suspect...
Ed Wilson, from Victoria BC, also.
Q: My wipers are chattering, and no matter what I apply to the windshield ie, RainX, Autopel, etc they still chatter.
I've replaced wipers and no matter what the cost they still chatter.
I have cleaned the windshield with ammonia,and other cleaning agents but to no avail.
The wiper motor is in great shape and the wiper arms work well. It should be noted when I apply washer fluid the chattering stops for a short period of time.
Any suggestions no matter how weird they may seem are welcomed.
Ford has no suggestions other than replace the wiper motor and the wiper arms and wiper blades and see if this resolves the problem, I think this is a bit much.
Mr Lynn B Klein
A: Stop the wipers in the middle of the windshield. Turn the key off so that they stop. Lift the wiper arm off the surface and gently lower them again to the windshield surface. Now look at the blade position in relation to the windshield. The blade needs to be 90 degrees to the glass and it is not. Use pliers and twist the wiper arms so that it is. Good luck. Ed
Q: Car starts fine, but dies when I either release the parking brake or put the car into reverse. Runs while in drive/idling, or in park, but the hum from the engine goes from powerful to very weak, almost dying, and then back to powerful on a random basis. Car sounds like it's about to die at any moment, so driving is unpredictable.
The car has been in for numerous things - vacuum tubes have been replaced, fuel system has been tweaked I believe, and for a while it was fine - the brake/reverse problem has just started up again.
I'm not a car guy, so I'm unsure of what to do. Any help would be appreciated.
A: Idle air control motor is where I would start. Ed
Ignition System Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: Don't know if voltage regulator is re wired correctly. The battery keeps getting drained and won't charge, car won't start. New alternator and voltage regulator put in.
A: Hi Debbie.
The voltage regulator on this car is integral with the alternator. It is electronic and if it went bad, would either over charge or under charge.
What pointed you to the alternator?
Does this happen even if the car sits for a few days? What is the condition of the battery? Are the cables clean? These cables are like braided wire and can accumulate lots of grease and oil..if the battery is generally dirty, that will discharge a battery through the film. Also, check for a low drain light that is stuck on. Maybe your back-up lights are stuck on. If that were true, you'd discharge overnight, depending on the condition of your battery. If your battery is older than 4 years, it could start giving you fits.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: I have an 89 Ford Tempo. In the past two years the horn on my car short circuited. Since then I have went through 11 alternators. The horn has been disconnected along with the radio. Still every two days my battery is dead and every two or three months I need a new alternator.
A: The horn itself being disconnected does not fix the shorted to ground problem...... You need to find the power drain (relay possibly) and repair that..... Ed
Q: Was replacing serpintine belt and cannot locate how to tighten the belt. The belt is the same size as the broken one had to take alternator off to even get fingers in there.
A: The automatic tensioner keeps the belt tight. Either the tensioner is defective (causing old belt to fail). Or you have the belt routed incorrectly (can be easy to do). Look at the underhood sticker for proper routing of belt.
Ignition System Won't Start When starting Not applicable
Q: When trying to start there is a clicking sound coming from the starter. It does not turn over or start. The battery is good. Is there a solenoid on this car?? If so where is it located. The VIN is 1FAPP36X7KK215601.
A: There is a solenoid on your car. If you follow the positive battery cable from the battery it will take you right to it. If you hear a clicking sound the solenoid is probably fine. You should check the cables for loose or dirty connections and replace them if necessary. If the cables appear clean and tight you may need a new starter.
Ignition System Won't Start Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I just had a new starter insatlled two weeks ago. When attempting to start the car, it does nothing. When I jump start it it takes a while for it to turn over.
The battery and alternator are both less than a year and a half old.
Could it be a bad voltage regulator?
A: Take a volt meter and with the car running check to see if your getting around 14 volts if you are then it could be the battery. If it's less than 14 volts then check the out put from the alternator to see if it is putting out 14 volts.
Q: Dear Ed,
Possible reasons why engine still won't start...new cap, rotor, coil...but apparently still no spark. Is the only other answer the ignition module or could there be something else??
A: There could always be something else of course... I think that the module is hopefully the silver square box on the fender well and not the thick film module type.... Dad
Ignition System Won't Start When starting Not applicable
Q: I am trying to prepare a Ford Tempo for a compact demo derby. Are there ignition kill switches and fuel pump kill switches? After taking off external rubber and plastic on the body, I now cannot start the car as if a rocker switch dis-engaged. There are dash lights, power window motors work, ect... just nothing when I turn the key.
A: Sounds like you may have removed a ground wire to the starter...Ed