Q: Just looking to add a few horses, but thought I would ask a couple quick ? first.
Wondering the the pulley kit off of a 1997 Mustang GT would work on my T-bird? Both 4.6L.
Also would the 70mm throttle body work from this mustang to my T-bird?
A: Sounds like both of them will work, but the pulley upgrade is almost an imaginary horsepower gain..... It has to be a finely tuned big-dollar engine to gain results that way.....
Ultimately, a bolt-on Nitrous fogger system is your easiest best bet....... just stay with the 150 HP kit......Ed
Electrical / Lighting Systems Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: My left turn signl blinks very fast in the front, but doesn't blink in the back or is out..
Also, I believe I have a back light out... I have checked the fuse and it is fine.. what do you suggest?
A: Check and replace the bulb...... Sometimes they look okay and are not...... Ed
A: One of the things to check first is the brake rotors. Could have a warped one from excessive heat (hard braking), OR could have one warped from a bad caliper not releasing properly, this is a common problem with Ford products....DB
Q: I have a 1996 T-Bird 4.6L V-8 with 70K miles. I think the head gasket just blew. (I'm waiting for the mechanic to give me the bad news) Upon accelerating on the freeway, plumes of white smoke started to come from the engine. Upon first inspection, I noticed coolant everywhere.
Now, I know head gaskets aren't supposed to go so soon, as I service my car when required. I bought the car new and haven't received and information about manufacturer recalls. Now, after a little investigation, I see this a regular problem with this engine. Is there some Ford program in place to deal with this because what does it cost to replace heads these days, $2-3K?
A: Heads are pretty expensive even when you put them on yourself. I've seen a ton of fords blow headgaskets and I think it's because a lot of time the thermostat fails or a hose leaks without you knowing and that engine just gets too hot. Sometimes though the heads that warped can be "shaved", or recondition. It just depends on how badly they've warped. But if you want to do it yourself you can get an awesome set of heads from one of those SUMMIT catalogs for a little under a G *P.S.unless you have a warranty,I wouldn't hold my breath about Ford replacing anything.
Interior Components Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: Which year models will the dash board fit into a 1995 T-Bird?
A: Your local wrecking yard will have this cross over info for you. Also, you can try the All-Parts "Recyclers" section and clicking on the Blue "Buyers" button to the left of this screen. Ed
Exhaust System Upgrade Not applicable Not applicable
Q: Hi there. My friend and I just want to put a set of headers and twin pipes to the back. We want to use Flowmaster mufflers. We want the car to have a rumble but not be exceptionally loud. It has the 4.6 liter V-8. Does anybody have a kit that we can use? This vehicle comes equipped with three cats. We would like to use only two, one for each side if it is legal. We live in California.
Thank you very much.
A: Go in to Dynomax Exhaust and see if they have a system for this car. You have to be really careful in California because of emmisions. They should be able to help you.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving Always
Q: Just noticed a few days ago, my cruise control will not engage. Had worked perfectly a day before. The next day, was driving to work on the interstate, hit the "on" button and went to "set" the cruise, would not engage. Acts like the system is getting power. No other electrical problems that I know of. Any suggestions? I am trying to avoid the $50/hour dealership.
A: Check the fuses first and then the vacuum line to the unit. Also if the brake lights are on or activated it sends a cancel signal to the unit. Ed
All Part Groups Malfunction Happens sometimes Not applicable
Q: Every now and again, the "OD (overdrive) Off" light on my car comes on and flashes.
If I unhook the battery and leave it off for about 60 seconds, it stays off for about a week.
Why does this light come on and flash? My book says if the problem continues damage can occur.
Damage to what!?!?!
A: Overdrive is an extra gear for automatic transmissions, letting the engine to reach higher speeds at lower RPM's, reducing on engine wear and tear and gas mileage. If when the button comes on and off the RPM's of the engine fluctuate (at high speeds) then you have a problem, if the RPM's are not affected by the flashing light then dont worry about it, the light is just going wacko.
Q: The car wants to surge forward when the defroster or the air-conditioner is turned on. The surging happens when the ac compressor turns off, and it seems as if the IAC is not reponding fast enough. Could that be the problem or can you think of anything else?? There was also a trouble code in the memory, it was oxygen sensor #1, bank 1 reading too lean. As far as I could tell it was reading the same as the front sensor in bank 2.
A: Might try cleaning out the iac with ford cleaner. Just remove the iac and soak it with the ford blue can carb spray cleaner.
Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens always Always
Q: The blower motor cable connector that connects from the blower motor to a circuit box behind the glove box is loose at the blower motor, when you jiggle it the fan will come on and off. Was there a recall on that and is that cable replaceable.
Thanks Michael
A: We had the same problem on our 95 lx. lower the glove box by pushing in on the side and let it hang. The wire and control box are right there. Its a short like 6in long connection. Go to a junk yard find a 94-97 (atleast those years) and pull it out yourself, thats what we did. Ours was melted, dont know what caused it for sure, but it works now. P.S. if you doing mods to your car for speed talk to us :) 95 lx 150mph, modified tranny for no slippage and even tire chirp from 1st to 2nd. Many other mods and repairs. Any other questions maybe we can help... Connboy21@yahoo.com
Q: Right when I first start it up and I am just beginning to drive, if I try to acclerate hard, my car's rpm will not go past 2,000, and it bounces around, and I hear backfiring.
It sounds like its coming from the headers but not sure. It slowly fades as it warms but never totally goes away.
So when I acclerate hard, there's a jerk kinda.
I have replaced the Wires,Plugs,TPS,CPS,CTS. It is a 4.6L V-8 Coil Pack ignition. Thanks.
A: So the problem is either not enough fuel or one of the coil packs is defective while cold....
The fuel can be checked with a pressure guage and the coil packs need to be tested when cold.... no starting the car first after overnight sitting... Ed
Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens always Always
Q: The heating / AC unit is not functioning at all.
I have the semi-automatic climate control system with temperature control with an exterior temperature reading. None of this displays at all.
Turning all of the knobs does nothing. At the same time this went out, my voltmeter in the instrument panel stopped working.
I've checked fuses with a multimeter and they all seem good. I even replaced the ACC fuse just to be sure.
I'm at a loss for what the problem could be.
A: Possible power supply to the back of the dash. Ed
Q: Just this morning after about 20 minutes of city driving the car started to stumble, like the engine misfiring. When I stopped it idled rough. I put it in neutral and it ran smooth. I'd give it gas and there was a slight miss. As I accelerate it misses alot. Then after a couple of minutes went by the "Check Engine" light came on. It ran a bit smoother after that. It starts fine. Under load it sputters.
A: When the computer "see's" something it does not like, it will put the system in failsafe or limp mode, operates on built in perameters. Check for codes and then diagnose the indicated system. Ed
Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: I have a 1994 Ford T-Bird LX, V-8. I had the transmission rebuilt. The O/D light was not working in drive and 2nd gear but turned on and off in 1st gesar. The tranny slipped a bunch and rpms reved up when driving.
I picked the car up and the O/D light still did not work in drive and 2nd gear. The transmission mechanic said it had nothing to do with the transmission, that it was a short in the gear shift. That's not what the owners manual said. Any help is needed.
Thanks, Keith
A: Catalytic converter is not the problem with the o/d light(from the last post).
Does the tranny go into o/d? If so, chances are that it is an electrical problem.
All Part Groups Chugging When accelerating Not applicable
Q: When I accelerate my 1994 ford thunderbird supercoupe chugs and misses, it sorta acts like it's running out of gas. So I accelerate harder and it finally responds and gets going. What's wrong with her?
A: I dont know much about your maintence but those supercoupes are pretty sensitive about spark plugs,change
about every 25-30k regardless of plug type
All Part Groups Making Noise When starting When cold
Q: MAKES A HUMMING OR WINING NOISE CAUSING THE RPM'S TO RISE UP AND DOWN.AND SOMTIMES WHEN THE RPM'S DROP THE CAR WANTS TO DYE. BUT AFTER IT WARMS UP ITS FINE.BUT WHEN IT DOES DO THIS,I GIVE IT A LITTLE GAS AND IT SOMTIMES STOPS.A FREND SAID IT MIGHT BE THE AUTOMATIC CHOAK.
A: there is no automatic choke ,the rolling idle(Up and Down) is common on the T-Bird,sound like a alternator or power steering pump,I believe that the noise and rolling idle are not related
Electrical / Lighting Systems Other Not applicable Always
Q: The right turn signal on insturment panel stays illuminated when the lights are on. When I signal for a Right turn the lights flash faster than normal. I do not have this problem with the left turn signal. When I turn on my hazzard lights the right frt is very dim compared to the left. Please help!!! THX
Electrical / Lighting Systems Other When driving Always
Q: When car is running, interior, headlights and dashlights all pulse. Does not happen when engine is not running. Alternator is a little over a year old.
Thinking maybe the voltage regulator?
A: Think voltage regulator may be ok. First check headlight switch Ford had prolems with them. Also check ground off the battery.
Q: I just replaced the heads gaskets & it worked for few days, but now the RPMs are on 2500 all the time.
I replaced the sensor by the air filter, but still the same. When I disconnect this sensor it works better, still doesn't run well though.
A: Its a vaccuum problem. Most likely the upper intake gasket moved or sucked in.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: The headlights begin to flicker after they have been on for a while. Is there a solution for this?
A: Most of the Fords have a breaker as part of the headlight switch assembly.... it is a circuit breaker and it gets weak after years of use....
A new headlight switch should fix this problem for you.... Ed
Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When driving Always
Q: Light acceleration in overdrive produces a chugging/hesitation in the transmission. Shifting to 3rd alleviates the problem. Ive heard this is a common problem, something about incorrect fluid? Transmission was recently rebuilt, but problem returned immediately.
A: I personally think this is a characteristic of this trans, however, try lightly placing your foot on the brake pedal while in overdrive to activate the brake lights and see if the trans shifts out of overdrive long enough to climb that small grade etc, Ed
Heating / Cooling System Other Happens always When cold
Q: The temperature gauge flucuates between cold and warm.
When in the warm area, the air coming from the heater is cold or barely warm.
Have replaced engine and water temperature sensors.
Does the computer control the environment also?
A: I think you have an air lock in the cooling system. Check with the engine cold and make sure the rad is full. Ed
Q: The front left brake squeaks when driving, and when braking the car shakes excessively.
A: This could be one or more problems occuring at the same time.Your front left caliper may be frozen and stuck in the engaged position.You failed to mention if the squeaking is constant or is it on and of getting faster as the car accelerates.If it is on and off,it may be that the rotor is warped.In fact,that would be my first guess.If it is constant,it could be that the brake pads on that wheel are bad.If that is the case then eventually it will start grinding instead of squeakin.Though some cheaper quality brake pads tend to squeak after getting wet or when the rotors are glazed.
If you are the do it yourself type,try jacking the car up and see if you can roll the wheel with little effort.If you can't move it at all then it is definitely a frozen caliper.If you can roll it but it gets a little harder in some spots to roll,then it is a warped rotor.Also a loose front end component such as a tie rod or a ball joint that is worn or loose could also be causing the shaking...---heaux
Brake System Upgrade Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I have an IMCA modified with a 9 inch Ford rear end, with
disk brakes and I need to replace a rotor.
They are a one piece rotor. Did Ford have a factory rotor
like this?
A: Man oh man...if Ford had these babies in stock somewhere,
they didn't tell me or you, because we aren't on the inside
track of the big sponsorhip thing they have going.....
Carrol Shelby or the Wood's Bros. would know but probably
wouldn't say....good luck....Ed
Q: Hi, my car vibrates a little bit every time I'm on a stoplight (stopped of course =). I always thought it has something to do with the engine supports, but I don't know. Can you help me?
A: Assuming that you checked the exhaust from touching, and the transmission from shuddering. Yes, the engine mounts are a good place to start. Also, check the transmission mounts. Ed
Ignition System Malfunction When starting When cold
Q: the car just cranks over and will not start sometimes. i just put a cap and roter and new plugs still the same old problem.also i have to step on the brake to start car(some kind of antitheft device)which is now giving me problems.sometimes it will not make contact when i step on the brake. i would like to disconect it do you have any sugestions?
A: your cranking problem sounds like an ignition module,next time it acts up cycle (on-off)several times,if it starts them the fuel pump is bad.as for your other problem i am not much for unhooking things the problem is in a soliniod that gets weak over time
A: could be a lot of things ,first install a flushing tee on one of the heater hoses and bleed out any air,if coolant keeps going down then you have a leak or head gasket problem
Q: Some times it quits and don't get fire.I have replaced the coilpack,camshaft sensor,disstribitorless control module. Sometimes it will start up and run fine then other times it won't get no fire. I have had it put on a diognostic machine, and it showed up no codes.
A: Have you checked to see if any of the plugs have carbon build up causing it not to fire.. and also it might not be the ignion system it could be in the fuel system
Drive Train / Driveline Upgrade Not applicable Not applicable
Q: My TBird needs a transmission. Right now, it has a 5-speed
in it. Will an automatic fit in instead of another 5-speed?
A: Yes, the transmission will fit, but the nightmare will
outweigh the advantages....
Not only do you need to change mounts, etc, you'll need to
run transmission fluid lines up to your also new - different -
radiator, and that's before you address the computer changes
necessary..... Yes, the computer is different too...
Besides, if you change it, how are you going to pull those
high rpm pedal to the metal power shifts that broke the first
transmission...LOL...good luck....Ed
Q: While driving, the car will sometimes jerk back & forth rendering the car undrivable. I pull over, wait about 30 seconds, rev the engine a little, put the car back in drive, and everything seems fine. This happened for the first time about 6 months ago, but since then, it is happening more & more frequent. Now it happens almost everytime I try to drive the car. I know my model car (T-Bird Super Coupe) has a square distributor cap (I think it's electronic). Could this have something to do with it, or is it something entirely different? My car is an 1989 Thunderbird Super Coupe with 130,000 miles. Please help?
A: I would start by checking both the fuel pressures and the egr valve system. Ed
Q: The check engine light came on suddenly. The car has 95,000 miles. It's a 3.8l LX.
The EEC diagnostics for "Key on - Engine off" give a 32 error code.
The "Key on - Engine on" also give a 32 error code. This refers to the EGR valve position indicator.
I only see that this car has an EGR valve with a vacuum line. I don't see any electrical connections from the EGR so how can the EEC determine the EGR position?
A: I have a 1990 Ford Thunderbird, mine has 108,000 miles on it around 101,000 my car had the same problem as yours.
My check engine light came on every so often and I ended up taking the EGR valve off and tried cleaning it out as best as I could (it really wasn't even dirty), after that it came on for a split second and went off.
Since that time period it hasn't been on since. The lady that had the car before me barely drove it and it had a lot of "built up carbon" in it and I let my foot get heavy to clean it out.
Every time that I floored my car, the light would go off and stay off for a little while, but ever since the time I cleaned it and gave it a nice wide open throttle run it has been fine and the light has stayed off.
If you have anymore questions about this or any other questions feel free to email me at badolds_88@yahoo.com good luck with your car!!!
~Kevin
P.S. The EEC can tell that it is the EGR valve from the O2 sensor (the EGR puts carbon on the sensor and sends that signal to the EEC), this problem does not hurt the vehicle in any way, the annoying light just always stays on!!!
Exhaust System Upgrade Not applicable Not applicable
Q: If I wanted to put headers on a 1988 V-8 T-bird, should I use full length or shorty headers (Hedman Headers part #88380 or #88360) and would I HAVE to get a new cam also?
A: If you can tell us what you wish to ultimatly accomplish with this car, we will try and help....
Try and avoid the piece meal....
Headers, then cam, then injection or carb modification, then transmission, then rear end, then tires, then 'holy man have I ever spent a pile of money and it still isn't as fast as I wanted'!.... Ed
Q: There is extreme smoke from exhaust. I have to add oil every few days. This is a 2.3 L. turbo, and I suspect the turbo system, as it makes a very high pitched whining noise recently. Thank you.
A: Sounds like the bearing in the turbo and the seal is damaged.... leaking oil past it.... if there is raw oil on the turbo impeller blades, have it rebuilt.... Ed
Electrical / Lighting Systems Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: L.E.D. speedometer display is dim. Manual does not indicate a fuse or bulb which could be replaced.
A: There is a fuse, the only way to find it is to have the car's electricity on (but not the engine) and to pull out one fuse at a time until the LED turns off, then replace the proper fuse with a higher voltage. Another solution may be to adjust the headlight knob (if available)
All Part Groups Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I hooked up a stereo in my 1988 T-Bird and somehow evidently disconnected the wires that control the horn, cruise control, and fuel tank release... Can someone please tell me what wires to re-connect to get those 3 things working again? They were working before installing the stereo system. Thanks! :o)
Q: High consumpsion of oil & water out tailpipe no water in oil but oil in water. Took head off & water pump still water in left side of block. inplace of headbolt no sign of headbolt or block crack. When this happened the car had no loss of power. Is the block cracked? #3cyl is free of carbon #12 & 4 has carbon buildup has an oilpressure hole on l/side at end headbolt 2.3L turbo ford 155.000 miles
A: Check the head gasket, especially all around number 3......
The clean cylinder got that way from steaming.... Ed
Ignition System Upgrade Not applicable Not applicable
Q: trying to replace ignition switch, cant figure out how to get the old one out, dont have key to old one, help!, please
A: you have to either use a slide hammer to break the inner pin on the cylinder or you can also take apart the steering column cover and you can see the pin sticking out of the bottom on an angle take a small center punch and knock the pin through the other way backing it into the cylinder then twist n pull the cylinder right out
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving Always
Q: First the trip gage went dark, then the entire cluster started intermitant going dark. Now it has gone out again and the air and turn indicators are not working also. The fuse checks good. Seems strange that they are all on the same fuse..... where can i get a replacement cluster if it is bad?
thanks
mike
A: Remove the cluster and inspect the connectors and circuits (wires running to various indicator lights/gauges). You may be able to locate the problem.
Click FIND PARTS or FIND SUPPLIERS on this site to find a reconditioned unit. If not, I believe there are suppliers on the the internet.
Have you checked all possible fuses, and with a test light.
Good luck!
Q: It's not really a problem, it's an engine swap. I want to put in a 351 Windsor and I need to know what I'm walking into. It had a 302 in it, so I know it will fit.
A: You will have to also change transmission. Possibley the mounts. Fuel injection won't work. Will need to use carburetor.(LOTS OF WORK)
Q: Hello, my 5.0 starts off fine, after running for about 5-10
minutes, it starts to surge significantly.
It died 2 days ago, so I replaced the computer and the fuel
sensor, and it started up again. But now it's back to the
surging. And it died again.
I can't find anything else wrong, can you help?
Thanks again, Dave M.
A: Dave...does this car have one of those vari-jet carbs???....
They are bad when not right and can cause all sorts of
strange problems....have it checked first.....Ed
Q: When my car is cold it starts fine without touching the gas pedal. But is stays at a high idle and will not change the idle when it reaches a normal temp. If I push the gas pedal it stalls. After that it wont stay running, unless I keep one foot on the brake and one on the gas.
Q: Can I replace the factory jet-inlet's to a larger size to get better peformance from the carburator? Is there a better route?
A: Is this a 2BBL or 4BBL or ??? And on what engine???..
The fastest way is to bump the timing about 3 or 4 degrees and use top quality premium gas.....Ed
This way to the live technicians