A: Unless this was a metal flaw, usually the things that comes to mind are a cam bearing run low on oil lube and seizing.....
Or the timing belt breaks and the piston hits a valve and the valve drives up to break the cam.....
When you take it apart, you'll find more evidence to point you in a direction...... Ed
Q: The needs service light just came on. I do all the maintance on it myself and I just changed the oil filter sparkplugs etc. There are no strange noises and everything runs fine. I use regular gasoline. The current spedometer is 40000 miles. Is there anything I can do to turn this off?
A: try to disconnect the battery for 15 minutes, it might help
Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When starting Not applicable
Q: My tracker won't start, thought it was sensor to clutch, but once clutch was readjusted, it still is strange!
Put the relay switch where it can be held by hand to start, but clutch cable is still not adjusting out right!
Goes from very little clutch, barely off the floor, or it goes down & won't come up.
Do I need a new clutch cable? And if so, where can I get one besides the outrageous prices of dealers? No one in town but dealer can even order one!
A: Tisha.... can you jumper the two wires on the switch for the clutch????.... and then adjust the cable so everything shifts okay???...
If so, you will be able to start it at all times.... even with the Tracker in gear and the clutch in the up position, so be careful.... Ed
Q: I hear a wierd sound coming from the brakes when they are being applied. Almost like a "clunking" noise. The noise isnt constant it just goes "clunk clunk clunk". Any ideas of what it could be? Thanks
A: COULD BE WARN PADS. IF THE WHEELS HAVE BEEN TAKEN OFF RECENTLY AND PUT BACK ON TO TIGHT .THIS COULD CAUSE THE ROTERS TO WARP.GIVING THE CAR A CLUNK NOISE WHEN APPLYING THE BRAKES. EVEN MORE SO WHEN APPLYING THE BRAKES HARD.
Ignition System Chugging When accelerating When cold
Q: However, there are no sounds present at the beginning after start up. The engine idles fine, but once acceleration begins the vehicle starts slugging and a feel of loss of power occurs.
After the engine warms the slugging and feel of loss of power diminishes.
Now the car won't run right even after the engine warms.
I have changed the fuel filter, fuel pump, oxygen sensor, spark plug wires, distributer cap-rotor and a diagnostic run showed nothing.
The "check engine" light is on and can't be turned off.
I have now encountered a Mitsubishi igniter inside the distributer cap and the part number can't be found by any auto part store or Chevy dealer. Confused and need help!
A: Part of any warm up cycle is a fuel enrichment system of some kind. I think this one is based off of a coolant temp sensor for the computer so that the computer knows when to add aditional fuel for cold running etc. Ed
Q: When I turn the key, nothing happens with the engine.
The lights and radio work, so I don't think it's the battery.
I had the starter tested and it checked out fine.
There is a a soft hum only when the clutch is pressed in so i dont think its a switch problem.
Can you help me? I'm getting tired of push starting it :)
A: I would "load" test the battery..
It only takes 10 or 15 amps to power the lights and the dash lights..
About 170 amps to turn the starter... Ed
Q: The check engine light comes on every 80 thousand miles or so and I have to take it to a shop to put it on a machine that always says nothing is wrong.
I am tired of paying someone to tell me nothing is wrong when i already know nothing is wrong.
Is there a way to shut this light off myself when it comes on for no reason?
A: Yes, when it comes on, disconnect the battery, wait about ten or fifteen seconds then hook it back up.
Q: I discovered the problem when starting car.
First, when you turn on the key you here a ticking noise in part # (31850-80C10) E8T15171 (2506). This is some type of relay.
Once the ticking stops after about 30 seconds the car will start, but has no power 35 mph tops.
The car will not start when the ticking is present.
A: Yikes.....at least it is not a bomb....... I have never come across this problem before.....
Is there some type of starter interupt system or maybe one of those remote starter systems installed????... Ed
Q: You turn the key over,and you hear the relay switch making a ticking noise,very very seldom will it start,so you have to primer it,then it will start right up, but when you get where your giong and turn it off you have to primer it again, it's like the fuel injectors are not pumping fuel in it to start.
A: Replace the relay. Its fairly cheap and it is probably the problem (as in only sending an intermittent signal to the fuel pump). If this fails to cure the problem than the problem is probably in the fuel pump itself.
Fuel System Won't Start Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I have gas at TBI and fire and am in time but
it won't start.
It will start when I spray carb. cleaner in TBI then die. Is it my injector?
Can I test the circuit to the injector? The injector sprays no gas.
A: If it sprays no gas when properly connected to a jumper, then it is probably your injector. Try having the throttle body rebuilt. It isn't that expensive. I do them on the side for $60 a pop.