Heating / Cooling System Smelling When starting Not applicable
Q: Lately when I turn the A/C on I get a smell of humidity, After awhile it goes off.
A: What happens is the Ac core (the part that is in the vechile)gives off condensation which is trapped in the heater/AC box,The box has a small hole in the case for the water to escape but over time the hole becomes plugged thus trapping the water .Mold begins to form causing the smell.Ther are some products that you can spray in the intake (fresh air) side of the AC that will cut down on the smell and if done regulary will stop the problem provided the drain hole is not plugged.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens sometimes Not applicable
Q: My daytime running lights should come on automatically, but in my case, I have to cycle my headlight switch to activate them.
I'm told that it is the relay. If so, where is this located under the hood? thanks mike
A: Driver's side fuse box. On the fender well. Not too far from the power brake booster... Probably rectangular Bosche relays....
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: My car battery light continues to come on and off. If the engine is run in a lower gear it will flicker on and off before staying on. If driving at night the headlights dim and the interior lights dim. If I use the turn signal it shorts my curise control and sterio. The car would not start right after being driven but would after sitting for several hours. Now, however, the car is not starting and behaves as though the battery is drained. After a jumpstart the car drives fine unless the lights are on, in which case the car begins to "hickup" and die.
A: Adam , you need to have the battery checked . It may have been damaged , or is to old to properly hold a charge . This is part one of your problem . Part 2 is the alternator . The diodes inside may be bad or the regulator is bad . Either way , replace the alternator . Go to a specialty shop that specializes in batteries and alternators . This is your best bet to get the best service for your money .
In addition to the above , check all of the ground connections in the engine compartment and any others that you can find . These need to be clean and tight . Always keep the battery connectors clean .
Electrical / Lighting Systems Other When turning Always
Q: Only when the headlights are on the right turn signal will not work. Turn the headlights off and the turn signal works normally. I believe it is some type of grounding issue, but I've been wrong before. On occasion the horn will honk when lights turned on.
A: yep, you my friend have a ground problem!, i would check around on the right side and see if you can find anything.
Q: At 96,000 miles, it pushed out the counter balance shaft seal. Why?
A: That is the old.. "sh*t happens" thing working against you...
I spent many years working in the dealership system and there were lots of brand new cars we pushed off the car carrier transport needing repairs..... Ed
Chassis / Suspension & Steering Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: I have a 1996 Honda Accord LX. I hit a sidewalk with the right hand side of the car about 2 months ago and the car got a flat and bent rim.
Now the car has been aligned twice and replaced the struts but the car continues on pulling hard to the right hand side. What could be the cause of this?
A: You may have bent the lower control arm, but you would think that the alignment people would have spotted this.....
They need to road test after their alignment to confirm.... also swap front tires side to side... Ed
Chassis / Suspension & Steering Vibration When driving Always
Q: When driving at low speeds (5 to 20 MPH) the car starts a gentle rolling side to side vibration. I have noticed it only in the last week or so. The vibration goes away as soon as I speed up above 30 MPH. It also goes away as soon as the car comes to a stop.
A: One of the tires has shifted or separated... Feel around the tread of each to find it..... Ed
Electrical / Lighting Systems Upgrade Not applicable Not applicable
Q: How do I take out the whole front headlights?(Not just the light bulb but the whole casing as well) What tools do I need to do the job? What is the level of the job on a scale from 1- 10 1 being easy, 5 being middle, 10 being hard?
A: The grill comes out first I think etc...
It is a 5 or 6 on the scale, easier than rebuilding a V-12 Jag........... Ed
Windows / Glass Malfunction Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I just replaced my window motor and the window is off the alignment, i need to know how to get this back on the correct alignment to roll up and down cause right now if i keep it off alignment i could burn up the motor. If you could help me that would be great. Thanks!
A: I am putting a new radio and would like to know how to take out my dashbord out of my honda accord 1996 lx
My email: email@example.com
Q: Engine overheats when car is not in motion. The fan is not running, so the engine is not styaying coll. How do I replace the motor to get the fan running again.
A: first check if the sensor for the fan is working, its located on the radiator, take a wire and short the circuit to make the fan-relay send current to the fan, if that didnt work you might check the fan to see if its working
Q: I was driving on the highway and my oil light went on and the engine just shut down for no particular reason. It got towed to the nearest Honda dealer and I am waiting to see what had happened. Just wanted to know if this is a common problem and am I responsible for all the costs or will Honda pick up the bill.
Thanks for any help.
A: Could be caused by an oil or oil pressure sensing switch that shuts off fuel flow when the oil or oil pressure goes below a factory preset limit to prevent engine damage.
I'm looking for some details on how to boost the power of my 4 cylinder engine. I've heard about devices that force the air to go in and stuff like that.
Is the process of upgrading dangerous for the car?
A: The engine will only safely produce so much hp. You will have a hard time getting a lot of power out of the engine without doing something major and expensive to it. You could replace the filter with a K&N that is made specifically for your vehicle. Keeping the car in tune will assure the greatest performance at the lowest cost...
Windows / Glass Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: My front window will not "roll-up". It is a power window and it is all the way down.
At this point I have the door panel off and I don't think that it is the switch as the other windows work.
And the window motor clicks when I press the switch to move the window down.
I can not get the window back up manually. How do I do this? and how much will a new motor cost? Thanks!
A: Does the window motor also click when you press the switch to the up position???...
If not, I would suspect the switch..... Most switches are 3 wires and one wire is ground (middle)....
Use a jumper wire between ground and each of the other wires one at a time....
If the window motor now works, get a new switch.....
If it just "clicks" like before, the motor or track system may be seized...... Ed
Chassis / Suspension & Steering Making Noise When driving When warm
Q: A couple of weeks ago my 94 Accord developed a regularly-paced "knocking" or light "rumbling" whenever I make left turns at moderate speed. The other day, the same sounds began while making right turns also. No noticeable malfunctions . . . yet. Any ideas as to where to start? Steering, Tires, Suspension, etc.??
A: Right front wheel bearing needs to be replaced. Ed
Electrical / Lighting Systems Dimming Happens sometimes Not applicable
Q: The display on my original, factory installed cassette radio is often either blank or showing only partial characters. Interestingly enough, when this happens, the cassette player doesn't work correctly.
If the display is okay, the player is okay.
I checked the fuses, and they seemed okay. I'm puzzled...
A: Buy a new radio. Any repairs to the factory would cost you the price of a new one.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Other Happens sometimes Not applicable
Q: After locking my doors via the automatic door locks, and starting to drive, they sometimes attempt to relock over and over (i.e. I keep hearing the same locking sound).
This hasn't caused me any problems -- besides the aggravation of me and my passengers.
Today when it was going through this spasm, I simply unlocked them via the auto locks, and it stopped.
Q: Whenever I make a sharp turn the car makes a weird sound (like water spraying out of a hose) and there is liquid coming out of the pedal area on both the driver and passenger side. It looks like water but I'm not sure. This has started happening about 2 months ago. Also when I turn the A/C on it only works on the largest strength which is 4 and 1,2,and 3 stopped working. Should I get it recharged?
A: i take it you are talking about the blower motor itself only working on #4 but i'm not sure. if that is the case then it may be the blower switch or relay or resistor assembly.if the AC blows cold it don't need recharged. as for the liquid around the floor area,if it only happens to be bad when the AC is on or when you are running the defroster then it is probably a plugged drain for the heater box.
Ignition System Won't Start When driving When warm
Q: Sometimes the remote ignition enabler does not work, even with a new battery installed in it. I would like to disable this security device so I could start the car with just the ignition key.
A: ok if it is aftermarket and they went to the ignition harness on the steering column I hope there should be a black with a white stripe wire and it should be kinda big if it has been cut in half and hook up to some other wires just reconnect it back together and it should work if not I do not know because there is no factory starter kill on this year of car.
Q: I put Bosch Platinum 2, spark plugs in my accord, started it up and it ran good. I then switched the wires and distributer cap. Then when I started it, I could tell that it is missing somewhere, and I am guessing that I have two wires crossed. I am trying to find out the firing order from the engine to the distributer for a 94 Accord LX.
A: The firing order on the 94 accord is 1234
check the distributor cap for oil inside or a carbon track or debris in the plug slots on the cap. also check for vaccum leaks at the manifold and e.g.r valve and E.G.R. system
also make sure the plug is properly gapped to Honda's specs, I think the gap is .35
I had this Problem recently Although I never figured out the problem, I replaced the plugs with denso plugs,and rplaced the cap&rotor.
Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When driving Not applicable
Q: The odometer on my Accord runs too fast. The digits on the white column portion of the odometer turns at a rate that is faster than normal. For instance, it shows that I've driven 5 miles when i've actually only driven 1 or so.
what is wrong and how can it be fixed?
A: Assuming that someone has not changed the transmission or speedo gear, the problem will be in the speedometer unit (in dash)..... a used one should help fix the problem.... Click the blue buttons on http://www.all-parts.com..... Ed
Q: This matter is not about sound I was trying to find a page which could help me with a lettle problem I want to get a 2.2L V-tec for my car and I was thinking about the prelude engine I would like to know if it could work ?
I am wondering if I would have to do any big Adjustments to get it to fit ?
I desperatly want to get this V-tec engine. Ihave located one and the price is good.
Please reply at Lammy_71@yahoo.com
I would be most gratful if you could help me to achieve this gold. My car is a 1992 Honda Accord Ex 2000cc.
A: It is not really a good idea. You would have to change computer and wiring and you will never get everything to work right without spending a ton of cash.
Chassis / Suspension & Steering Making Noise When driving Not applicable
Q: When going over bumps or braking I hear a clunk that seems to come from the front driver side of the car.
The clunk is a metallic sound that sounds as if a piece of metal is rocking against another piece of metal.
I cannot see anthing below the car or under the hood.
A: check the struts and the ball joints (upper control arm, tie rod ends).
Brake System Malfunction When braking Not applicable
Q: When I hit the brake at 65mph or over my brake pedal pulsates and pulls to the right. It's fine when it's below 65mph.
I had a mechanic cut my rotors, put on new brake pads, brake fluid bled, wheel balanced and aligned, but nothing seems to fix the problem. What needs to be done to get rid of this problem?
A: Did they inspect/ pack/ replace your wheel bearigs. Does the car have ABS? If so have the system checked for incorrect brake proportion.
Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction Not applicable Not applicable
Q: It is very hard to put it in Park or take it out of Park. After it is out of Park, shifting in all selections (R, N, D4, D3, 2 or 1) are fine. I have checked the cable. It is good. What is the problem? Accord Ex Auto. Thanks.
A: Have the linkage adjusted. Is it bent? If this is all o.k., the problem may lie in the shifter itself or in the worse case the parking pawl inside the tranny.
Q: While driving, can die after slowing down and trying to accelerate again. When idling, after pressing gas pedal - on acceleration for a while and then picks up. Takes 4-5 tries to start after stoping.
A: Check for a fuel pressure problem using an accurate guage. Also check the throttle position system for opens in the switch. Ed
Electrical / Lighting Systems Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: Can the plastic cover over the headlights be fixed without changing the whole light? If so, how do we remove it and fix it? Can the cover be bought at any auto parts store or do I have to go to the dealership?
A: Glue is "tacky". Maybe a used one can be found. Or, try a dealer. Ed
Q: I have a 1991 Honda Accord EX. The engine is junk and I'm getting a new one. I want to know if there is a more powerful engine available?
I'm thinking about maybe the V-6 used in the newer Accord's.
Also, I want to exchange the automatic transmission for a 5-speed manual.
What would be the cost of this?
A: Keep the same motor in it. If you don't you can hurt the value of the car and it would also be very costly and you could run into big problems switching everything over.
Q: I have a couple of questions. First my car builds up a lot of carbon at stop lights and when I take off theres a cloud of black smoke what would cause this? Also, my car shakes a lot when I put it in reverse. It does it in drive to but not as bad. I put new spark plugs, wires, distributer and rotor and it didn't help at all. Thanks for your help
A: You need to check the compression in each of the cylinders. My bet is a burnt valve in one of the cylinders. Ed
Q: The drivers front carpeted area and the left rear carpeted area as well as the trunk area is being soaked whenever it rains. However, there are no obvious damage to the weather stripping around the windows or trunk lid. Help
A: Was the car ever wrecked? Sounds like the unibody is twisted.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens sometimes When warm
Q: After about 10 minutes of driving, the speedometer, the odometer, an engine light, and a light that is an "s" which stands for ?: begin to malfunction.
The speedometer drops to 0 mph. The odometer stops counting. The "s" light begins flashing and the engine light comes on.
Otherwise the car seems to be fine.
Is this an easy solution such as failing fuses?
Thanks for your help.
A: It's a speedomoter chip...
Cost about $175.00, but don't go to the dealer, go elsewhere for a cheaper price.
Many suppliers in All-Parts have rebuilt units... Click 'Find Parts' under wholesale direct..
Exhaust System Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I recently had my cat converter removed because it was plugged. I plan to put a high flow cat on as I find one.Do you know of any direct fit high flow cats and will running my car without a cat damage the engine.
A: Won't hurt the engine but if you want one go to Autozone and get a universal. Very cheap compared to a factory and have a friend put it on or do it your self.
Brake System Making Noise Happens sometimes Not applicable
Q: Very intermitent (high pitch rubbing?) type noise from right front. Usually happens during light accel when pilling out of driveway or in heavy traffic.Noise lasts for about 15 seconds which makes it very hard to pinpoint. I also refill my ABS resovoir evry other month, I found no visual leaks at this time. Am I looking in the wrong area for the noise?
Q: I need to change my vehicle speed sensor (1991 Honda Accord SE) but don't know where it is located (aside from bolted somewhere to the transaxle). I've had some descriptions sent to me but still can't find it. I would really like a diagram / picture of the engine with the VSS labelled but can't find it (and I have looked in every book and webpage I can find). Can you help?
A: It _may be in the intrument cluster on the back of the speedo...
Q: I need to replace the fuel pump on my 1991 Honda Accord EX 2.2.
I needed to know where it is located, and if a do-it-yourselfer like me can do this, to save some money.
A: Are you sure it's your fuel pump? Most likely it's your fuel pump relay (hidden deep inside the dash).
The fuel pump is located inside the fuel tank.
It is not exactly easy to replace. With a good manual like a Chiltons manual vailable online, You could probably get it done.
Just be sure it is the pump & not the relay.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: 1991 Accord EX developed the following while driving on dry interstate highway: battery light came on, some hesitation, then speedometer/tachometer went to zero (car still moving at highway speed)then engine slowly dies. Was able to limp into nearby service plaza. Car then would not start.
A: I hope you replaced the altenator by now...Good Luck!!
Q: The power door locks lock at any old time with car off or on. Unclear why.
Secolarm was removed with all wires and connection I could find and the problem still persists.
I checked the wiring in the Honda factory manual and nothing is mentioned about automatic locking.
Where do I look to find the problem?
A: From here, my guess would be a problem with either the driver or passenger front door locks...
The entire system is triggered from these locations.....
Pull the panels off and have a look.... Ed
Q: When I am turning the wheel and accelarating it gives a clicking noise. The noise continues and when the wheels are straight there is no noise. The noise comes when I turn and accelerate either side. Somebody told me it is the axel problem and both axels have to be changed. Can you please confirm this and also please let me know approximately how much it would cost me to change them.
Thnaks you very much
A: It does sound like the CV joints are worn. Usually less expensive to replace with rebuilt axles. Phone your local supplier and they will price them for you. Also click the blue buttons at All-Parts. Ed
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always
Q: I recently got a new battery. When taking back the old core, I noticed my brake lights where on. I was then told it was the stoplight switch. So I got it. However, I dont know how to put it in. So now I am having to drive around with the stop light on and having to disconect the battery every time I park the car.
I recently changed the switch the lights arr sill on. Adjusted the switch it still is on what else could be the problem?
Check to see if wiring to switch is reversed, also check emergency flasher switch for malfunction.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens sometimes Always
Q: Intermittently while driving, different lights on the dash go on (the check engine light as well as the "S" indicator light) and the speedometer or odometer will stop working. It can be just one light or panel control, or up to all 4 at the same time. If in cruise control, the speedometer malfunction, will stop the cruise from working. Have not noticed other warning lights yet. The car runs fine and this has been going on for over 1 year.
A: Sounds like a few wires touching each other.. perhaps inside a connector.... Ed
Q: Door will not open, latch will not release on drivers side, had locksmith come out and took door panel off, and still could not get the latch to release.
All rods are connected,latch just failed,how do I get my door open so I can install new latch..... help!
A: I also have the same problem with my 1990 Honda Accord. I found out from the dealer that this is
a common problem, one out of a thousand, so we
are the lucky ones.
I understand that there was a service bulleton
put out some time ago by Honda. Front seats have
to be removed, take off the door panel and there
is a secret spot to drill the lock out.
Im told you only get one shot and you must know where to drill. If you miss, you screw up the door.
I just got an estimate from Honda Service.
Its about a four hour job, figure on paying
$280.00 for the new lock and about $200.00 labor. Expensive price to pay to get the door
I found that climbing over the seats and getting out on the passanger side good exersise. Ive already lost a few pounds. Still,
if I cant fix it, guess Ill have to pay the price. People are wondering if Im normal getting out on the passenger side.
Chassis / Suspension & Steering Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: Behind the left rear wheel, there's an arm coming from underneath the car, from the wheel assembly. I beleive these two arms should fit together, but have separated.
At the end of each arm, there are fittings with a rubber seal.
How can I get them to fit together again?
A: I think the fast way is to source the local wrecking yard and replace with good used ones. He'll know exactly which part .....good luck...Ed
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Not applicable Not applicable
Q: Alternator stopped charging, but the red "battery light" never came on.
I bought a new battery and installed a new alternator.
Still when i turn on ignition the red light on the panel does not illuminate like it should.
I switched the lightbulb and that didnt help.
I checked all fuses and cleaned the connectors on the alternator. I also checked that that the GND is good.
The voltage regulator is built into the alternator so that is also new.
It is still not charging!!
Am I overlooking something?
A: Check for blown fuses or a burned fusable link.
Q: Will not produce a spark when engine turns. Replaced coil - twice to be sure and all spark plug wires. Still will not start. Has Hitachi Igniter built into distributor. Correct 12 volts on both wires leading into igniter. Correct Ohm reading of continuity in one direction.
Any ideas? Could this be an ignition relay problem or is their an Ignition module on this model?
A: It sounds like you have a bad pick-up in the distributor.
Unplug the distributor (not the coil or plug wires) and use a continuity tester or a ohm meter.
Take off the distributor cap, and look at the distributor. Inside you'll see a star shaped cam on the dist. shaft. There is a little sensor on the inside of the dist. that picks up when the point of the star cam passes in front of it, which then tells the coil to fire.
If you don't get a reading, meaning the ohmmeter reads infinity, or the continuity tester doesn't light, that means the pick-up is bad and needs to be replaced.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: the battery light came on when I was parked yesterday. The light is still on. Is it the alternator? When I tokk the cables off leading to the battery the car shut off. Does this mean it is the alternator or is that a feature of the car to shut off automatically anyway whe the cables are unhooked?
A: more than likely its the alternator,but it should be tested before replacement
Q: Another question for you.. when my honda was running there was a loud nocking sound in the front end of my car. what could cause that. and it didnt really speed up a lot when i accelorated but it did speed up a little.
A: CV joints are at fault(if car is in motion), Valves probably tapping due to oil starvation when vehicle is at idle. Faulty oil pump
Q: I can hear my car cranking, but it doesn't sound like it is getting any gas.
I am pumping the gas pedal, but am getting no response.
Does it sound like the fuel filter and/or fuel pump? Where are those located?
A: First, take the oil filler cap off, and watch inside to see the camshaft turning while someone else cranks the engine over....
Then if okay.. listen in the gas tank with gas cap removed for the fuel pump to run for 1 second after the key is released from the start position..... Ed
Chassis / Suspension & Steering Other When driving Always
Q: Turning my steering wheel has become too easy. There is no accompanying sound, but I have spotted a small blot/spot underneath the engine(right center). This may be a power steering leak, how do I repair and am I in danger driving the car?
A: Too easy I have not heard of yet. Find the source of the blot and repair. Not usually dangerous. Ed
Q: On a warm day after it warms up, it idles rough
and the PRMs go up and down when I stop at a red light. Rough idling eases when I put it in gear.
Starts OK. On a cold day it may stall if I put it in drive before it warms up. It has pretty good acceleration.
I have noticed a reduction in fuel economy.
What is the problem?
A: The vaccuum lines is a good answer, though personally I would 1st check the Main Relay. A common fault of Hondas of this vintage ('88 - '95), it could soon degrade to the point where after driving/idling longer than 5 min., the car will not start if you turn it off (eg. running to the store).
Post on this site if you need assistance in checking the Relay, or if admin does not mind my offering, contact me at: firstname.lastname@example.org
Q: Was driving when engine suddenly went dead. The engine is cranking over and getting fuel theres just no spark. Pulled the coil wire off the distributor and held it against the body while some one else cranked it over to see if there was spark. It sparks once and then no more, also tried another coil no go. Whatcha think?
A: Replace the distributor. There are several sensors in the distributor (crank angle, tdc, etc) that tell the ignition when to spark. these sensors are not replacable individually, just get a new distributor.
Q: transmission will not shift properly. it hangs in first for too long and when i finally get up the rpms for it to shift into 4th it drops back into 3rd and goes from 3rd to 4th back and forth with 'in between gears' time that's much longer than should be. when first started, it 'clunks' real hard when i put it in gear (usually reverse to back out of my parking space). it also has recently begun to shimmy when i put on the brakes, and 'jerks' sometimes when i'm just driving down the road.
A: It sounds like the vacuum modulator has no vacuum or is bad itself.
All Part Groups Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I tried to smog my car. Failed for high H.C.'s at 2500 rpm. I found that I have no vacuum to the E.G.R. valve at all at or above that rpm. My e.c.u. gave me a code 12 trouble code. What do I need to check and how?
A: The vacuum canister may be malfunctioning, if not that then replace the vacuum hose
Q: I have a 1987 honda accord LX-I with a 2.2 liter engine with automatic transmission. I have just replaced all new spark plug wires, cap and rotor with bosch platinum tip spark plus and revealed that a bad fuel injector was found causing it to run on 3 cylinders. I replaced the fuel injectors with ones out of a 1988 honda prelude. It ran great for a day or 2 but now it seems to have no acceleration and shakes alot.
any suggestions on why and how I can fix this accelartion and shaking problem on my honda accord.
A: If you installed used injectors, one or more could be no good.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start Happens sometimes Not applicable
Q: If I charge the battery it will start and run fine for a few days and then it all the sudden wont start but it seems like there is still juice in the battery just not enough to start it, if I get a jump it runs
Q: I think that one of the sensors in the distributor has gone out. The code under the seat is #8 & #9. I can get rid of one code then the other code comes up. Both codes never show at the same time. The # 8 code is for the TDC and the # 9 is for #1 piston position. The crank cam timing is correct. The programmed fuel injection light comes on but not always right when you start the car. The light sometimes does not come on till you have driven a few miles. Can you bypass this? Or Do you have to buy the whole distributor assembly?
A: I will try to help.
Not sure if it will be any help to you, I have a Haynes manual for a Honda civic 84-91. Not sure if Accords are the same, but any how; when I look up your problem it shows the same code descriptions for #8 & #9 as you stated.
For 87 and earlier models, it says to check the Crank angle sensor. This sensor is made up of two individul sensors.
The CYL sensor, and the TDC sensor.
CYL - It detedts the position of the number 1 piston as the base for the sequential fuel injection system; probably the order in which the fuel injectors deliver the fuel.
CHECKING IT: Unplug the electrical connector at the distributor and, using an ohmmeter, measure the resistence between the WHITE wire and the RED wire terminals in the conector. Compare your reading with value listed in this chaps. specifications, which is: (0.65 - 0.85 k-ohms)
TDC - It determines the injector timing for each cylinder, as well as sending an engine speed signal to the (ECU) Emission Control System.
CHECKING IT: Unplug the electrical connector at the distributor and, using an ohmmeter, measure the resistence between the BROWN wire and the BLUE wire terminals in the conector. Compare your reading with value listed in this chaps. specifications, which is: (0.65 - 0.85 k-ohms)
Specifications are the same for both sensors.
If these sensors failed the tests, the book says the distibutor must be replaced, that in 1998 there weren't any replacement parts. There might be now. That is probably what you wanted to know.
Although this is written for a Civic, I hope it is the same for your Accord and this info. can help you.
Sorry if this wasn't any help to you. If it was, glad I could help.
If you can't get replacements, I would try finding a used distributor at the wreckers, before buying a new one.
Don't let them rip you off, con them down as much as you can; and be firm. Surely they have a few of those distibutors and if they want the sale they will take your offer, granted it was reasonable. I haven't met many honest wreckers.
Q: The car is hard to start after making a quick stop at the bank or market. The PGM-FI light sometimes comes on. Computer is flashing a code 6. I am told this means I need a PTC sensor.
Is this correct, and where on the engine is this sensor? If this is correct could you price the part and availabilty.
A: If this was a TDC sensor it would make more sense to ME....
If you can unscramble the language code that Honda used for you, I will help...
It is 5am here and PTC could be something off the wall like Primary Timing Control........ Ed
Q: I, started it the other morning and it stopped as if it was out of gas, but now it will not start, but there is plenty of spark.
A: these are possibilities,
-broken timing belt-get out your wallet
-plugged fuel line-
there are a couple of others but first I would check to see if you cam shaft is moving when you crank the car over. this can be done by removing the oil cap and having someone crank the car over. you should be able to see the shaft turning and activating the valves.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Other Happens always Always
Q: I was putting in a cd player and after i was done smoke was coming frome behind the cd player. I took it out and looked and directly behind the cd player a plastic piece which plugs into another was melted. Ever since then the dash lights dont work. But the oil, bright light, brake light, seat belt light and etc still work. Its just the lights that work for the speedometer, fuel and temp gauges, and the gear lights like park, drive, and etc, But when my headlights are off the park, drive and suck work. I was wandering if there is a way to fix this myself or if i need to have someone do it for me. can u give me a price on what this mat cost.
A: Its an electrical issue.. Doing it yourself can cost thousands of dollars.. trust me I know.. It is best to have it done professionaly, they have the tools to find the precise location of the problem.
I would have to agree. Without the proper tools the car can become more hassle then what it is worth
Q: How hard is it to change the front seal on the crankshaft?
A: Not too hard. Remove all belts from the crank pulley. Remove the bolts in the crank pulley. The pulley should then come off with little effort if not it may need a puller.DO NOT FORCE IT OFF. You should see the rubbber seal now. Pry it out with a screwdriver and fit the new one in its place. Then take a socket of the same size(if possible) and tap it into the bore. Note the front cover may need to be removed after pulley removal.
Q: How can I soup-up my motor?
And where can I find out what motors I can replace my engine with?
I have an 85 Honda Accord 1.8, 3bbl.
A: There was a twin carb motor in those years that performed very well and would be a good start.....
What do you wish to ultimately accomplish with this car? Those things will determine what modifications you are going to spend a lot of dollars on.... Ed
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always
Q: instrument lights and tail lights are not working. The fuse for these two are good. Wiring behind fuse box appears to be intact and unburned. However there is no polarity tranferring in fuse holder and the malfuctioning lights.
A: Plug one wire test lamp on the positive side(wire from fuse box) of light socket and ground the negative to the body(no paint or rust metal) to check if its a ground problem.
Engine is smoking from the block itself,around the valve cover area, and it sounds like the oil is boiling under the valve covers. Radiator is not abnormally hot to touch, and no boiling sounds.
Temp 'dummy gauge' reads low, not overheating. Oil level good, coolant level good. After letting block cool completely (like an hour or so) it will restart and run for another 20 minutes or so, lending me to belive that something in the engine, perhaps the crank or the camshaft, is being restricted due to swelling, but then cools down and contracts back to normal-ish shape/size.
The part I don't understand is why the engine itself is smoking, while the radiator seems to be fine. I suspect some sort of block higher up, whereas the radiator and temp gauge themselves actually are an okay temp, but that everything beyond them is melting down.
Your thoughts ? This has me quite stumped. Thanks much !!
sounds like you have either a bad thermostat, water pump or a blockage in the engine cooling passages. Do your radiator hoses maintain their proper shape, or are they collapsed? An easy test is to remove the thermostat and just run the car without it to see if you have a problem with your cooling system.
Also, with regards to your no start, you don't say if the car will crank or not. If it does crank, and won't start I suspect that you have a bad pickup coil in the distributor. If it doesn't crank, odds are your engine is shot. Even though it restarts, every time it siezes, it's tearing up the bearings and journals. It's just a matter of time before it siezes for good.
All Part Groups Won't Start Happens sometimes When warm
Q: THE CAR RAN FINE I FOUND A LOOSE VACCUM LINE AND ATTACHED IT, NOW THE CAR WONT START ,WITH OR WITHOUT THE VACCUM LINE ON.
I CLEANED THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP AND ROTOR BUTTON, THE WIRES ARE ON CORRECT.
I ALSO CHECKED TO SEE IF ITS GETTING GAS, IT IS.
I CANT FIGURE IT OUT?????
THE CAR HAS BEEN SITTING FOR SOME TIME. I ALSO PUT ALCOHOL IN THE GAS TO "KILL" ANY WATER.
AND NEW GAS ALSO.
A: The next step would be to check the spark. The quick way would be to get a phillips head screwdriver pull off 1 of the spark plug cables (at the spark plug) also make sure your screwdriver has a plastic handle, stick the screwdriver in the wire part and let it touch and grounded metal part of the car (for instance valve cover).
Stand well away from the car, while being able to watch for a spark. Do _NOT hold the screwdriver.
Have someone turn it over real quick. If there is a spark that jumps across the screwdriver to the grounded part then your spark is good.
It sounds like you have spark problem... Since you car does get gas. GOOD LUCK
Q: After driving for a short distance(2-4 miles), the car acts like it starts to flood out, actually it does. The rear venturi fill about half way with fuel and chokes out the engine. It won't start back for quite a while. When it starts happening you of course get a jerking and a rough operation of the engine. The carb was rebuilt about 15K miles ago and had ran fine until recently. I snapped a timing belt and had it fixed, while having the car the mech set the timing to 5 degrees, spec is 18. Would this cause my problem? It seems to happen more often in warm/hot weather than in cool. Could it be the pump relay not shutting off?
A: Set the timing to where it needs to be. Assuming the tech timed the belt correctly. Ed
A: Remove the fuel tank and filler pipe. find where the hole is and sand down with steel wool by hand to avoid sparks mix up a batch of j.b. weld you can purchase at any well known auto parts store ---and apply to the hole in a thick application let it set for 12 hrs. and this should cure your problem after 12 hrs. you can file down any access j.b. weld then re-install the tank after you test it for leaks
Drive Train / Driveline Making Noise When driving Always
Q: After getting stuck in the snow, what sounds like part of the drive train of some sort is knocking quite loud. The car was really stuck. The passenger side wheel was spinning freely and the drivers side was not spinning at all. The knocking occurs somewhat in 1st gear, not at all in 3rd and very loud and constant in 2nd. It sounds like it's coming from the drivers side. PLEASE HELP!!
A: Possibly the axle or cv joint got damaged. Especially if the cv boot was torn. Ed