Q: Sometimes when I start my car (automatic trasnsmission) the lights all light up but nothing else happens. There are no noises. The car simply is dead with the exception of all the lights on the dashboard. Thist does not happen each time I start the car. There seems to be no pattern. Sometimes it happens when the car is warm and other times it happens when the car has not been started for a period of 12 or more hours. The dealership replaced the neutral safety switch which did not correct the problem. The very next day, the car did the same thing. When this occurs, it has taken anywhere from 2 to 7 tries to get the car to start. The car has only 34,000 miles on it. I tried the jiggle the key while attempting to start the car to see if there was any difference and there was not. What could the problem be.
A: The inhibiter switch is almost certainly the problem. the new one may also be faulty or the wiring to it is breaking down.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: I have a 2000 Prelude and I am trying to install aftermarket headlight bulbs. What is the easiest way to remove the old bulbs and install the new ones?
A: If you have bulbs and not a whole headlight assembly then the best way is to look on the back of the headlight and locate an electrical connection going into the headlight. Disconnect it and turn the bulb counterclockwise and gently pull out the bulb. Place the bulb in the assembly and reconnect all connections.Do not allow your hands to contact the bulb because oil in your skin will cause the bulb to prematurely fail.
Exhaust System Upgrade Not applicable Not applicable
Q: Hello. I would like to know if you have a picture of the stock headers for a 1997 Prelude because i am not sure if the ones that are on my car are stock. This is because they look exactly like aftermarket headers, except that they're rusted and it had the aluminum heat shield over them. I was just wondering if you can show me a picture what the stock headers SHOULD look like since i dont know becuase i bought my car used. Thank You for your time
A: If you removed the heat shield, what did the header look like? If it is kind of big and bulky then it is stock. If it looks too smooth, then it is probably aftermarket.
All Part Groups Malfunction When accelerating Always
Q: I hear a funny noise under the radio place near the gear shift when at 7000 rpm. Not serious, but any hints?
A: On Star Trek they used to call that warp 9....... and I think Scottie used to hollar... "she's gonna blow captain"...... or it could just be those poor little pistons begging for mercy?????.......probably just a vibration resonance that transfers through the dash from an engine or transission mount....good luck...Ed
Q: I would like a bigger engine in my Prelude.
Can it be done?
A: Anything is possible with unlimited time and tools and equipment and money.
What are you trying to do with your car?
How fast and what category do you want to dominate with it?
The street or just race of some kind? Tom
Q: I need to replace engine in 1994 Prelude (VIN 2). Car is five speed. I'd like to know what engines, if any, other than 2.3L Prelude engine will fit as a swap. Specifically, any differt year or model.
A: Did you try looking a JDM powerplant? It will give you a bit more horsepower and they are readily available throughout the US.
Q: The car in question is a 1993 prelude vtec.
Car has 46789 original miles. When I took it
for a 30k mile service, the dealer did not change plugs, wires, cap and rotor. They said
these items are to be changed at 60k miles.
Is this true for this vehicle??
A: It depends on the way the car is driven highway or city and what kind of climate you are driving in. I would say they are pretty close.
Fuel System Won't Start When starting Not applicable
Q: engine will just turn over and will not fire. where is the main relay located. i can't hear the fuel pump come on when the key is turned one click.
A: if you still haven't fixed this problem it is probably your fuel pump relay/ safety shut off switch. Test it first, try cycling your key several times off to run a few times with out attempting to start, listen for the fuel pump to kick in, then try to start. This is one of honda's big problems and my '92 lude did it too. the part is under the dash on drivers side. The part is easy to unplug but its hard to get to the bolt that holds it in place. The part itself is approx $65. If you replace it I would just plug it in and stick it under the dash. I did it, no problems with it since.
I work on honda's and have owned 2 ludes. Anymore questions I will try to help
Q: Hi i just did a swap from my h23a motor on my prelude to a 2.2. vtec dohc motor and i want to go all out and make it hit low 12's for now until i go even faster,
i just want to know if you got some advice on where to start exactly, i lost some weight by adding a fiberglass body kit, i got a aem cold air intake and really dont know where to go from there,headers,etc etc,
please if you can list which way i should go to build my motor to run hard and safe and to hit top time at the track,I dont everything to the car except speed,kit,custom paint,rims,etc.
A: Start by freeing up you exaust system. Motors are limited in the power they can make by how quickly and effectively they can expel the exaust.
Next I would concentrate on a reliable,high power ignition system.
If the cars is a stick, a high performance clutch can not a couple tenths of a second.As for the fuel system, there are quite a few web sites for those hard to find Honda performance parts such as a better injection/throttle body system,stronger cam and lifters, and higher ratio rocker arms.
After it is all said and done you may find a speed shop that can tweak your timing and still be compatable with your ECM.
(I don't know if aftermarket racing ECMs are available for Hondas yet.)
Q: Over the past few months, I have noticed that the pick-up isn't as immediate as it has usually been. In particular, it seems to experience a serious power drain when the A/C is on. However, I have never experienced any difficulty, accellerating or otherwise, with the A/C on in the past 9 years I have owned the car. (Please help me heal my baby!)
A: Is it time for a tune-up. Timing check, etc. Ed
Q: Ok,I had a mechanic take off my fuel tank to check it for water in the tank, and when he checked it, he found no water. Now my gas gauges do not work. The gauge that shows the fuel level and the gauge that lights up are both not working. Could the mechanic have forgotten to hook something up.?
Heating / Cooling System Other Happens always Always
Q: The sliding control mechanism that controls the temperature of the air that comes through the vents is ALWAYS hot.
The sliding mechanism is not as smooth as it was before and before it stopped working it was hard to slide from Cold to Hot and Hot to Cold.
Recently, it slides very easily and seems to always be set on the HOT setting even if I pull it to the COLD setting.
I was told that the sliders in many cars like mine are connected to a cable and that the cable could have broken. Those that I have asked about the cable, said it's hard to find as a separate item without replacing the entire climate control assembly.
Is it possible to find just the cable that connects the slider with the other end and is there assumption true?
A: Climate control cables can be purchased at almost any automotive store, but they may have to be altered to fit your honda.
Your problem, on the other hand, does not sound like a cable fraxture due to it working at all.
If the cable was broken, it would move freely and have no effect on the climate control.
Chassis / Suspension & Steering Upgrade Not applicable Not applicable
Q: Aftermarket Parts for the 1990 Honda Prelude are hard to come by and recently I've noticed other models of the Honda line-up in this year are supported, but not for this particular model.
The area that I am looking to upgrade is the bushings.
The last time I put the car on a lift, I could notice a lot of the bushings are squished in one direction or pushed out of place, sometimes causing high-pitched squeeking at times while driving.
Mechanics told me that it would be I need to replace the rubber ones. But, the price to do them is NOT cheap, so I thought, why don't I try Polyurethane Bushings?
Anyone have any opinions on them or know where I can get them for my car? It's hard to find!
What about having my rubber ones coated with polyurethane OR can I use other Honda Models' polyurethane applications for mine?
A: I would use polyurethane bushings if you plan on lowering and using low profile tires.
If you're planning to just replace stock with no modifcations, factory rubber is the cheapest replacement.
Energy Suspension should make Polyurethane for you car about $150.00 for the entire kit.
Q: When the Cruise Control is enabled, the light comes on, but the speed doesn't stay constant, in fact it acts as though I am just taking my foot off the gas and slows down.
Is it the Cruise Control Module in the Engine Bay or the Electrical Part? I think it might be the module, because the light enables when the steering - column mounted cruise control button is enabled and disabled.
A: I would suspect a vac. leak in the system. Most if not all cruize controls use vacume to hold the throttle at speed. Look for a leak in the diaphram, a roud or thck pancake looking device, with a cable or linkage going to the throttle.
You may need a Chilton or Hayes manual to locate it.
Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When driving Always
Q: When I am in the range of 60 to 80 mph on my speedometer, my girlfriend tells me that I am actually going 65 to 90 mph.
Originally I had the factory 14" wheels and standard 195 60r14 tires, when these were on, it was only off by 3 - 7 mph, now with my new 16" wheels, it is off by 5 - 10 mph.
Do I need to a new speed sensor?
A: Yes, the factory sets the speed sensor to indicate 1 rpm every time the wheels make one complete revolution. With 14" wheels, ever time the wheel completes one REVOLUTION the car has moved aprox. 44 inches. With 16" wheels, one REVOLUTION, the car would move aprox. 50 inches.
I have a 1990 Honda Prelude SR. I know that the catallytic converter is shot because I failed emmisions testing. but my engine trouble light always turns on when the car warms up and the the exhaust really starts to stink.
Not a sulphur smell, nor like unburnt gas, just a realy heavy stink. You would expect this kind of smell soming from a 1980 Ford Monarch.
I've had the feul system flushed but have yet to replace the caddy converter.
If you could give me any ideas as to whats wrong that would be great. Also if you could point me in the direction of schematics so I could fix it myself.
A: the bad converter could cause all those problems. Some fuel system cleaners could actually clog the converter worse. Fix the known problem first.
Q: When I try and start my prelude after it has been running for a bit, it does not start. I have to let it sit for atleast a couple of hours and then it starts just fine. I took it to a local repair shop and they tried to replace the ignition coil but that did not fix the problem. The engine light comes on once in a while, but I was told that was a computer issue and that it was OK.
A: i had a ford that did the same thing i replaced the starter because the metal inside the starter got hot the parts got big and when i let it cool the parts unweged the self and worked when i took the starter in for testing everything checked so i did the test when it was hot and the starter failed
Fuel System Malfunction When stopped Not applicable
Q: When going to stop the vehicle will go to die but will then shoot back up and then do that same thing over and over again. I feel there is also a loss of power when accelerating. I have put a gas additive in to clean the fuel system and injectors and that helped for a week until the gas started to get low. The air filter is clean and the spark plugs are new.
A: check your distributor cap and make sure there is no moisture in there . if there is, spray wd40 in there and that is that
Q: I would like to get a better set of carbs for my 'Lude but do not know where, or even if it can be done, without making me go broke.
Both carbs were overhauled in 1994 by Honda Auto Inc.
I am trying to find a more reliable set of carbs. Thanks for your input.... David M.
A: The problem is the "without making you go broke"...... any set of carbs is a $800.00 start, plus wiring, linkage, fuel lines, etc...
Stromberg and Weber may have something for you..... or some of the high performance manufacturers ....... Ed
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving Always
Q: I have a '88 Prelude SI with 4 wheel steering. the speedometer quit working.
The S3 light is flashing on the instrument panel and the check engine light came on.
Is it the vehicle speed sensor switch (or) relay on the transmission? If so, where on the transmission is it located?
A: First you have to check the code....
The code is just an indicator as to which system is affected...
It's not a confirmation of part or parts failure....
You'll need the manual and a digital voltmeter to work with.....
Or you can just guess with money and buy parts..... Ed
Drive Train / Driveline Making Noise Not applicable When cold
Q: When putting the automatic transmission into the different positions(park/reverse/neutral/drive), it will grind when it is cold. When it heats up it does not do this. Please help! Is the transmission on its way out?
Thanks in advance.
A: Does it grind because the engine being cold is idling at a much higher RPM? Ed
Drive Train / Driveline Vibration When accelerating Always
Q: My 1988 Honda Prelude SI 5sp, vibrates while accelerating through 25 - 30 mph. Once over 30 it's fine until over 60 mph. The vibration is most noticeable in the driver door, but the entire car shakes.
A: Check tire balance and engine and transmission mounts. These are common causes of cyclical vibration.
Drive Train / Driveline Making Noise When accelerating Always
Q: the problem is a sound when i'm driveing it does it though all gears it sounds like some thing slapping to gether in the drive train or in the engine.i can even change the sound by putting my foot on the cluch peddle i just had a cluch put in 2 months ago for this problem & ithink they made it worse please help
A: Might be the transmission input shaft bearings.
I had that problem with my '92 Honda civic.
It sort of sounds like someone's holding a screwdriver against a plastic fanblade.
Q: My engine makes a tinny sound when revving around 1,500 to 2,100 rpm. Before or after that my engine sounds fine. But the tinny sound it makes sounds horrible and I can't tell if it is coming from the valves or the exhaust or anything else. The sound is like a tinny vibration along with a deeper groan from the engine. The sound has always been there to some extent but became really noticeable when a hole formed in my exhauust pipe. I have since put on a factory muffler and sealed the b-pipe but the engine still makes the same sound. Any help you could offer would be appriciated,
A: answer.....it is the header pipes. they are double walled. the inside ones vibrate against the outside ones. you can have the muffler shop cut a slit in the pipe and weld it to the inside one!
Electrical / Lighting Systems Chugging When driving Not applicable
Q: I have an 88 Prelude SI 4ws. The check engine light turns on (sometimes) then the car starts to chug when trying to accelerate. I have to turn the engine off then on again to reset it. It'll be fine for awhile then the light comes on.
This especially happens when the A/C is on but not always. The light will turn on even without the A/C being on.
A: I am thinking of two things. One being the oxygen sensor and the other being the TPS - throttle positioning sensor.
Q: The car will not go into 4th or 5th gear while driving...
A new clutch was put in a few months ago. This doesn't
seem right to me.
A: Did this problem just arise or did you have it as soon as
the new clutch was installed???....
If just now, the problem is most commonly in the shifter
rods. If before...something not connected correctly....Ed
Q: I have a 1987 Honda Prelude with 2 carburators and manual transmission. Whenever I rev the engine to about 4000 RPM and keep it there for few seconds, as soon as I take my foot of the gas pedal the RPM drops and the engine stalls. If I slowly take my foot off the gas it has no problem. This happens all the time HOT or COLD.
A: You need to richen the base mixture and balance the carbs. Ed
Q: Car surges when driving on the hiway. then when its warm it starts only after cranking for very long time. when it does start it is necessary to keep the rpm's high or it stalls out immediately. it will idle for a while when the engine is cold. Any ideas?
Q: This car overheated, bursting two hoses and the radiator in three places. I replaced the radiator, hoses, radiator cap and thermostat. The fans work, water pump is almost new and coolant seems to flow very well.
After all that, the oil light came on. I found lots of carbon and dirt clogging the pickup tube. I replaced the oil pump and cleaned the tube. Now the car runs well. Oil pressure is like new.
The problem is that a large volume of air comes out of the overflow bottle even when the engine is cold.
None of the fluids are mixing, no steam comes from the tail pipe and the temperature remains normal until this air displaces enough coolant to overheat the engine.
Can this be a head gasket or crack in the cylinder head? Please help...
A: Most likely the head gasket, but these heads warp, so have it resurfaced while apart..... Ed
Q: I have put new valve cover gasket on, also had
to put new grommets, tryed to start with jumper
box still nothing, but however when the jumper box is suppling juice to the battery everything works it just won't start. When I do try to start with jumper box attached to battery there is a slight clicking sound the car has been sitting for a long time.
A: Needs more than a jumper box with a totaly dead battery to revive...Ed
Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: When I down shift into second gear it makes a grinding noise.
The first time I heard it I never put it in second gear again.
When I shift from first to second, then it makes a slighter grinding noise.
Do you have any suggestions?
Q: When the engine starts you must have your foot on the accelerator or it will go dead. After it gets warm-hot it doesn't go dead and seems to run ok. Do I need to change the timing belt? The car has 110,000 miles. After thinking about it, maybe the engine runs a little rough even after it is hot.
A: The timing belt should be replaced after 50 thousand miles. It might just need a good tune up.
Q: When I start the car I must have my foot on the accelerator or the engine quits. After it warms up, it just runs a little rough. I have been told I need to change the timing belt but I don't think this is the problem. thanks , Jac
A: If the timing belt was bad the engine would not run in the first place. It sounds to me like you need a new distributor cap and rotor along with some fresh spark plugs and wires. You probably have a lot of miles on her,huh?If this is a fuel injected Honda you shouldn't have to give it any gas to start it. You may not need it now, but it is not a bad idea to change the timing belt if it has over 60,000 miles on it. You don't want that belt to fail while your driving, because serious engine damage will result.
Q: On a simple smooth acceleration the car will want to die as if the carbs are choking. What you actually have to do to accelerate at all from a stop is to over-rev the engine and then let out the clutch. Then when going down the highway there is also no smooth acceleration, only a spot in the range that you move the pedal the will actually increase your speed. On the upper and lower ends of that range the car has a choking effect, or a lull (if that makes any sense).
A: If your check engine light comes on take it to a dealer or your local parts store and have them put a code reader on your diagnostics port. It will read the code and let you know if any sensors or valves such as your egr valve is bad. Then you can perform the work yourself.
Q: Hi, i drive a 1986 honda prelude, non-si. When the car rolls with engine on or off there is a squealing sound. The squealing diminishes slightly when the brakes are applied. When the car rolls backwards with engine on or off, there is a clicking and squealing sound.Its pretty loud. To me, it sounds like a brake problem. Could there be any other problems?
A: Definitely brake problems. The squeal would be pads dragging, possibly wear indicators telling you to change the pads. The click is most likely related to the self-adjusting rear drums.
Q: Revolutions go up and down, when you first start her in the morning she will cut-off, usually twice before the revolutions hold up. Then every 20 seconds or so, the revolutions go up and then come back down.
Some info on that...my 87 CRX does the same thing
Drive Train / Driveline Vibration When driving Always
Q: Vibrartion of the car at speeds between 50 and 70 MPH. Balancing and alignment did not correct problem. Vibration disappears when automatic transmission is disengaged (put on neutral) at the above speeds.
Is the automatic transmission the problem? Could it be something else, such as a problem with a drive shaft?
A: You may have a problem with what we call "ujoints". You will usually feel a heavy vibration coming from everywhere in the car if u need all replaced or just on that one side of the car where its worn down. Ujoints are found in ur driveshaft and you will need to take off the driveshaft to get to them. This may be ur problem....or there is balljoints..it has nothing to do with transmission..I wouldn't suggest throwing any type of tranny in neutral at high speeds...u can loose your tranny that way.