Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always
Q: radio has power to it but nothing works. when i first turned it on it asked for a code, i hit a couple buttons to see what it would do and then after that nothing worked.... theres just a blank screen.
A: the code it wanted was a security code, if you do not enter the correct code, than the radio will not work. if you unhook the battery, give it a few minnutes, and hook it back up, then enter the correct code, it'll work.
Recently my alternator sent a power surge through the electrical system as a result my ECU was burnt out along with the headlights, wiper intermittent and brake lights all blew out. Got the ECU replaced along with a new alternator.
Since then my car does not idle without help from the gas pedal. When ever I press the clutch to down shift car stalls.
Car would hard start, idle for a while then stalls.
Can you help?
Can you also tell me about my diagnostic connector. My connector have three male pins within nine slots.
What is the purpose of each pin. How do I manually retrieve fault codes from them if my car doesn't have a MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light).
A: The fault code information can be found at your local library. There will also be a "base idle setting" procedure that you need to try. Ed
Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When driving Always
Q: The transmission will not shift into overdrive.
A: Check for power to the switch on the transmission...... and if it gets power when it needs to, the overdrive unit is burnt out in the transmission.
Usually it will still shift into overdrive but seems almost like neutral.... Ed
Q: When accelerating, it jerks and every time I stop and give it gas, it jerks.
Once I get going, there is no problem.
Recently the car died when stopped at a red light. It cranked right up, though I still had the same problem when I accelerated.
A: Sounds like the spark plug wires are going bad. Suggest tuneup.
Windows / Glass Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I have a 1991 Hyundai Scoupe with power windows. Within the last two weeks both malfunctioned. The window mechanisms operate i.e., the motors power on however, the window does not go up. I removed the door panel and I am able to manually move the window up, however, it slides backdown. I noticed a some small white plastic/nylon pieces at the bottom of the door shell. I also observed that the cable from the window motor to the window track functions smoothly when I operate the window switch. Could the white plastic/nylon piece be part of a window retainer mechanism on the cable that advances the window up and down? If so, can the retainer be replaced or do I have to replace the entire power window regulator unit. Either way, can anyone provide me steps to remove and replace the window mechanisms?
A: The white plastic pieces are small wheels that attatch to the mechanism, and move up and down in the slides..... they are not usually individually replaceable.... Ed
Drive Train / Driveline Other When driving When warm
Q: I have a transmission seal leak where the torgue converter goes into the transmission. It only leaks when the transmission is engaged. I replaced the seal with a new one. No better. I replaced the transmission with another transmission only to find it did not shift properly, but there was no leak, so i used the torque converter and the face plate(the round plate with the seal in it)from the transmission that did not leak. Put it on the first transmission and it promptly started to leak. Anyone out there who can help. I am stumped
A: my guess is that one of the shafts in the tranny that go into the torque converter is bent, you might try switching those too
Q: FUEL LEAKING FROM A PART THAT HAS 3 LINES GOING INTO IT ,AND 3 LINES COMING OUT OF IT. LOCATED ON DRIVER SIDE IN FRONT OF WHEEL WELL. LOOKS LIKE A SMALL CANISTER, 1" IN DIAMETER AND 1" TO 1-1/2" LONG. RUBBER SEALS ARE SHOT.
WHAT AM I DESCRIBING? I'VE GOTTEN ANSWERS FROM A FUEL PUMP TO A SENDING UNIT. PLEASE HELP, I AM POOR.