Q: Electric drivers window will not go up. the motor sounds like it's working, but nothing happens
A: this has been a problem with a lot of the cherokees over the years.....
I own a 1989 Cherokee LTD and since I have owned it, I have had to fight with the drivers window to get it to go back up. The main reason I have found for the malfunction is that the window itself actually go down into the door too far and slips off of the gear that pulls it up. Not so far off that it is hopless, but just enough where there are some easy solutions. Now, there are several ways to get the window to go up. My favorite is to slam the hell out of the door. it usually works well. If not, then try reaching into the door itself from where the window goes down and try to pull the window up with your hands as you push the "window up" button. do not use pliers on the window as a gripper. This is, and I just recently found out, the worst way to try to fix the problem. Because instead of a window that doesn't work, I now have no window.(lots of peices) If the little fix ideas don't work, then try taking t back to the dealership where you bought it, or wherever your warranty is for. As a last resort, find a jeep mechanic at a dealership and tell him the problem.(try to find the dirtiest one, he'll know what he is talking about.) he should be able to give you some advice. Good luck, and happy jeepin'
Q: I have a 98 cherokee sport. Does anyone know if there have been problems with the gas gauge on these vehicles? Mine has just begun to malfunction, and I've run out of gas twice! Also, wipers stopped working, and fuses are fine. Does anyone know what to check?
A: I checked on the gauge and havent meet anyone with the same problem "bad luck" with the wipers check the motor it might need cleaning on the inside sometimes corotion gets built up like tarter and breaks the electrical conn.
I have a 98 Grand Cherokee with the same problem. Sometimes the gas gauge reads "empty" when I know it isn't. I usually just shut the vehicle off, and turn it on again and that solves the problem
Q: The Check Engine Light keeps coming on on my 1997 Jeep Cherokee Sport. I got the manual and checked the codes and it is something like "Injector Power" or "Power to Injectors." I checked all of the connections and everything looks fine, but the light keeps coming on. Any ideas?
A: Disconnect the negative battery cable for at least a minute and drive to see if the codes come back. Ed
Q: The "Check Engine" light is on. The codes are 12, 31 & 55.
A: The 12 is the start reference code. The 55 is the end reference code. Both mean nothing which leaves you with the 31 code. Match that one and it will tell you which part in the system may have a problem. Ed
Q: The "Check Engine" light is always on. I turned the ignition On and Off three times, and got a code of 12, 31, 55 on the led display. Also, when the "Check Engine" light came on, it seems like the Oil Pressure gage started reading 20 psi lower, from 50 to 30 psi. Less than one month ago, a solenoid related to the emissions control was changed.
Q: Well, basically my car started to leak a rust colored fluid in a few dropplets from the radiator. We thought maybe because the coolant
was low that the radiator had some pressure and
some came out of the top of the cap ??? Within
a few days it went from bad to worse. My husband was going to work and went into the garage and noticed that it was flooded with very orange looking fluid coming from my 1997 Jeep Cherokee Sport. We looked for the major leak but could not locate it. My husband took it over to the Jeep Dealer in which I bought it new from in Dec 1997. His head mechanic and a few others were amazed at the severity of the problem. One of the freeze plugs was totally rusted out and fluid was gushing everywhere. They made the comment to my husband that they had never seen anything like this except in chevys! Then they asked what we were doing to the vehicle to cause this. They said that either we neglected the vehicle or somebody sabotaged it. Which, I find very hard to believe. We always leave our vehicles in the garage. I only have 46,000 miles on my vehicle.
They thought I had over 100,000. What would cause such a severe occurance in this vehicle that has low to medium mileage and is only used as a family vehicle? This is my third Chrysler vehicle. Out of all the vehicles, my second one was the best. I also had new drums and disc brakes put on just over a year ago. The mechanics also stated then that they had never seen drums so warped ever...They blamed me. But I know that it was not my fault. There was only 38,000 miles on it at that time. And I do not ride the brakes. My husband owns a 1997 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 that has 50,000 miles on it and he still has 75% brake pads on his and has never had a problem at all with it. What is going on with my vehicle? When I present this to the mechanics they always laugh and say I am too hard on my vehicle. What??? All I do is go to work, pick up my kids, go to the store. I am a 34 year old responsible mother. How could I beat on a vehicle that was designed supposidly to take an off road beating just by driving it under normal circumstances? I have checked the websites and have not found anything under defective freeze plugs and what may cause it..
Any suggestions ideas??? Help.
A: I am not sure about your freeze plugs but, the warped wheels probably came from over-tightening the lug nuts.
Drive Train / Driveline Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: Have stupid question about Quadratrack versus Selectrack (in Jeep Cherokees). Is a Quadratrack a four-wheel drive that cannot be switched
over to a two-wheel drive ? Is it indeed full-time 4-wheel drive? If so, doesn't that knock the heck out of mileage?
--- Judith Welch
A: A quadtrack is a full time 4 wheel drive but you probably won't see any gas mileage differance.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always
Q: The headlights no longer "come on." I have checked the fuses and relays which are OK. If I pull the directional/highbeam switch, the high beams come on, but will only stay on while I pull and hold the switch toward me.
Q: About 10 to 15 minutes after driving vehicle, the cabin begans to fill with a horrible gas smell. It is much more noticeable with the windows down ( ? ) - when I stop and check the engine compartment, there is no obvious odor of gasoline above the engine. As I walk to the back of the vehicle the smell occurs. I've taken it to the local Jeep dealer ship twice and they cannot find the root cause of the problem? I'm out of ideas. thanks.
A: Hey man,
Mabye you have an exhaust leak somewhere?
Is the exhaust any louder than it was before the problem? or when you gas it can you hear air being pushed really hard?
Q: This Jeep is overheating. What should I look at first?
A: First, check and make sure the fan is turning when it's at temperature. If not it's the fan thermostat, or relay.
Second, Check the coolant level. Is it up to full in the reservoir and radiator? (sounds elementary, but you'd be surprised)
Third, Change the thermostat. Make sure it's the correct temp for the motor too. Sometimes people swap them out for various reasons.
All Part Groups Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: Does this sound like I need a computer? Or what? 93 jeep cherokee 4wd 4.0 high output. i have had 2 fuel pumps put on..a new distributor put on...just had a new motor,manifold & radiator put on. the problem is...i go down the road then after maybe 3 miles it loses power & dies the tach just drops. please help.
A: bad O2 sensor? only happens after it warms up? after it warms up comp goes into closed loop control and meters fuel based on o2 senser output
Q: Went to store, ran fine, came home, turned off engine, went to start it again it made a wratchet like grinding noise wouldn't start. Then power locks wouldn't work.... took battery out and had it charged. Replaced battery and tried to start it again. Nothing, not even a grinding sound. It seem's maybe something wrong with the starter, but that wouldn't cause the power locks to die......
A: Possible fusible link burnt very close to the battery positive post? Ed
Q: The first time I start my Cherokee on days when the temperature is below freezing, as soon as the engine catches, it almost stalls, and then the idle comes back up to 800 rpm. I've cleaned out the throttle body and it made no difference. The shop checked out all the settings in the computer and said they were all where they should be. Also checked the TPS sensor and it seems fine.
A: Disconnect the negative battery cable for at least 1 minute(key off). See if it will reset. Ed
Fuel System Won't Start Not applicable Not applicable
Q: To get the fuel pump to engage (when the car hasn't run for several hours), I have to turn on power & leave it on for approx. 15-30 minutes.
Under the hood: Shortly before fuel pump engages, I can actually hear a sort of "ticking" sound in the relay box. The sound gets louder, the fuel pump relay vibrates a little bit, and FINALLY the pump gets power.
What I've done so far:
(1) Replaced fuel pump a year ago.
(2) Checked fuel pump wiring recently. Everything looks OK. No problems w/ fuel gauge.
(3) Changed relays for fuel pump & auto shutdown.
Could the problem be the relay box??
I'm not getting ANY diagnostic codes from the computer (i.e., the "CHECK ENGINE" light isn't telling me anything).
A: Change the pump relay, it should fix the problem.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving Not applicable
Q: The turn signal won't blink, the light just stays on. I have looked in both fuse boxes without any luck. Is there something I am missing. I know that some cars have "flickers" in them, but I don't think there is one in this car. What should I do?
A: Turn your signal lights on and take a walk around the vehicle. You will probably see a light that is not on on the side that is activated. This is normal and replacing the bulb that is out should solve the problem.
Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: How do I remove the u-joint from front axle?
A: The front axle has to be romoved from the truck first - then using a vise to hold it and a good hammer and a drift punch - drive the joint far enough to one side (after removing any possible retainer clips) and remove one side cup....
The rest is easy to see.... Ed
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always
Q: The courtesy lights in the Jeep come on and off when ever it wants (the same lights that come on when you open the door). I could park the car and watch the light go on and off or be driving along. There is no reason for it like hitting a bump or slapping the dashboard. Also the radio goes out the same way. They are on the same fuse so I believe this could be part of the problem. The only thing I have tried was to clean and tighten the door switches.
A: Sounds like a bare wire touching intermittantly. Ed
Q: When I start my Jeep the idle goes up very high, if I then turn the ignition key on and off without starting 6 to 10 times and then start the Jeep again then the idle goes down to normal and I can drive.
A: The throttle position sensor or the fast idle solenid needs work.
With a new engine just installed, I've noticed this problem.
When driving down the road, and WITHOUT accelerating (keeping a constant speed), the jeep rev's up (a few rpm's) a little bit.
The tachometer goes up, just for 30 seconds, then returns back to the reading, that it was constant at.
I did notice that my EGR value defective.
A: Sounds like the transmission slipping. First check the transmission fluid level.
Q: The engine will turn over but it will not stay turning. it starts for about 2 seconds and dies. when it dies it sounds like it is leaking air from somewhere near the pcv connections, but I cant pinpoint it.
I just baught a new pcv connection that connects from the crank case to the rest of the air system, but it didn't fix the problem.
what else could be wrong?
A: Sounds like a synchronization problem with the sensor in the distributor.
Q: I takes a long time for my jeep to start whether warm or cold. Once it is started, I have hardly any power up until it hits exactly 3000 RPM.
Am I right to think it is something with computer not giving the correct fuel/air mixture before 3000 RPM. Maybe a sensor is out.
I've replaced the coolant temp sensor that goes to the computer, CPS sensor, coil, computer module, spark plugs, rotor, cap, wires, etc.
I also have an MSD Offroad ignition. So the problem shouldn't be electrical.
A: Have you checked codes?
Throttle position sensor (tps) is strongest guess.
Engine off. Hold accelerator to the point of at least 3000 rpms, but under 3600 rpms. Will engine start much faster now? If so good chance on tps. (dont hold to floor when trying to start. this is clear flood mode. engine will get no fuel and will defeat this test).
do you know how to check codes? key on off on off on within five seconds. And read flashing engine light...
Q: I understand the PCV valve is in the rear of the valve cover. I have replaced all vacuum lines and grommets. Additionally, I have removed and cleaned the valve cover and the PCV valve. Does the PCV valve itself go bad? I see no moving parts. If it indeed can go bad, can you replace the valve without replacing the cover?
A: If you have the 4.0 liter engine the pvc valve can go bad by the ball inside of it sticking take it off and shake it, you should hear a rattle sound, if not you can get one at auto zone for under ten bucks.
All Part Groups Malfunction When starting When cold
Q: Sometimes, when I initially start my 1989 4.0 manual transmission Jeep Cherokee, it would idle extremely high.
I would usually turn it off, and restart it a couple of times before finally getting it to idle normally.
Sometimes I would plug out the Throttle Position Sensor, and this too would enable me to bring the idle down to normal patterns.
In addition, I notice that if I remove the covering from the throttle body and clean this carbon, it would run smoothly and trouble free for about 10-14 days.
Would you tell me what the possible problems are, and what may be causing this carbon build up?
Thank You in advance,
A: This is a common problem that will be made even worse if you use low grade fuel..... the filters have to be changed regularly.
If you remove the idle air control motor, and use a good quality carburetor cleaning spray - to clean not only the valve but the channels - that should help for a while.... Ed
Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: My vehicle will stop without warning after driving for about 10 minutes.
It will restart after sitting for 20-30 minutes sometimes longer. It is recurrent once it restarts and sometimes will run less than 10 min.
Any ideas of what would be wrong and how it can be fixed? Thanks.
A: Pick up coil (crank sensor) failure is known to be common.
Does the computer have any stored trouble codes? firstname.lastname@example.org
Drive Train / Driveline Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: 4.0 manual... My bleeder tube that goes in the hyd. slave cyl. for the manual trans was out and laying on the floor when I bought the jeep. Where is this cylinder located and how does the tube fit into it.
A: Slave cylinder is part of the release bearing. The transmission must be removed to service it. They are also a little pricey. If the thing is shifting ok and not leaking leave it alone.
Q: When my Jeep is running, it is blowing oil out the valve cover and into the air cleaner.
I've heard it might be the the pcv valve? Where is the pcv valve? and what else could the problem be if it is not the pcv valve?
It's not burning any oil either.
A: The pcv valve is plugged into either the valve cover or the intake manifold... has a larger vacuum hose attached to it... Ed
Ignition System Won't Start Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I started it one day and then about 10 minutes later, it just died and ever since it hasnt been starting.
I checked the battery and put a new one in and that didnt solve the problem. I checked all around the engine and found nothing disconnected.
So my thought is that its the starter relay, so any advice that you can offer will be greatly appreciated.
Q: On my Jeep Cherokee Laredo 4x4 4.0L, Within a minute or 2 of starting the engine, the RPM jumps to over 2200. The engine seems to be racing the whole time and it will climb up to 60km/h without even touching the gas pedal.
It has a hard time downshifting when coming to a stop because of this and the RPM jumps to over 3000 when you put it in park.
I have replace almost everything I can think of.
Someone told me it could be my computer? or that
I may have to get a special box to reset the idle control sensor I just replaced?
The TPS has also been replaced. The throttle plates have been cleaned and the vacuum lines have been replaced.
A: Idle air control motor stuck in the wide open position? Ed
Q: At 2000 rpms I loose power. I can maintain 30 mph but if I try to accelerate it wont pull. when I put the pedal to the floor it bogs and backfires at the throttle body. It has a new distributer cap and rotor and also a new fuel filter. The compression is fine as are the plug wires. It is too costly to troubleshoot sensors. if an injector was clogged or bad it would miss like a fouled plug. WHAT IS UP? PLEASE HELP,THANX
Q: I PULLED MY O/2 SENSOR AND DROVE FOR A WHILE AN D IT DID NOT HELP. FUEL PRESSURE IS A CONSTANT 19psi EVEN WHEN I PINCH THE RETURN LINE. I FORGOT TO MENTION THAT IT ALSO TAKES ABOUT 8 SECONDS TO CRANK EVEN WHEN ITS WARM. I PULLED THE THROTTLE POSITIONING SENSOR AND PLAYED AROUND WITH IT. IT SEEMED TO HELP A LITTLE. CAN YOU VERIFY THE TPS. THANX AGAIN ALLEN WILLIAMS
A: IT IS NOT THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER.IT IS NOT THE FUEL PUMP.I AM NOT POSITIVE ABOUT THE FUEL REGULATOR BECAUSE OF THE PRESSURE BEING 19psi. IT DOES SEEM LIKE THE THROTTLE POSITIONING SENSOR. I JUST NEED A SECOND OPINION. THANX.
A: I had the same problem on my 91 mazda. I put in a new ignition coil, changed all the plugs. Tried to diagnose for a week. Took it to a shop they checked it for a week. The problem was no spark to the distributor. For some reason if the distributor is no good, it won't let the ignition coil even send a spark to it. Some kind of crazy safety thing.
Q: Leaking fluid from brass fitting in housing of transmission.to find leak i need to know where the lines leed to. A diagram of the transmission, it's lines and there destination would be helpful.
A: Those lines(there are two)go to the transmission oil cooler in the radiator. I think that vehicle has quick-disconnect fittings on the trans(they have a tab that you push,and they then pull out)versus threaded lines. If you have the quick-disco lines,just pop 'em out, and replace the o-ring and spring inside the fitting.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Other When driving When warm
Q: need wiring diagram for radio
A: A specialist for automotive sound systems may be of assistance . See if you can sweet talk a service manger to allow you to borrow a service manual with the wiring diagram you need . You can also join alldatadiy to get what you need . That address is " www.alldatadiy.com ".