Electrical / Lighting Systems Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: When the blinker is applied the dashlights go out along with the brake lights. Gentle, sometimes hard tapping, on the blinker lever brings it back on, but not always.
Q: The engine started running rough, the overdrive light started flashing, and the auto tranny won't shift out of first gear.
The engine is a v6 with 84000 miles.
A: I believe that transmission has electronic controls, and it sounds as if the problem lies therein....
The engine running roughly at the same time may be related, but may also be a totally seperate problem... Ed
Q: The engine will falter when the gas is pressed aggressively. It seems like the engine also searches for gears during cruise. Sometimes when the engine is changing gears the RPMs will rev up before actually changing the gears. I had a transmission service with no positive results. I also took the car to a transmission shop and they said that they could not find anything wrong with the transmission. I was told that it could possibly be an air flow sensor (the check engine light is on.)
What are the indications of a faulty air flow sensor?
A: Find the cause or codes from the light being on and head towards the indicated fault......
My guess would be the throttle position switch......Ed
Brake System Upgrade Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I am putting new brakes on my 1996 Mazda 626 ES, V6. The front brakes were put on without any problems, but it's the rear brakes I am having trouble with. I am following the instructions in removing the pin and the other emergency brake assembly, which came apart without any problems. I replaced the old brakes with the new brakes and then tried to compress the cylinder so I can close the brake assembly, but it will not compress. I am using a C clamp and have never had problems on other cars? Any help would be appreciated.
A: Pistons wind in... usually counter clock wise......... Ed
Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: I was driving home from work and somewhat heavy traffic when the transmission shifting sort of hard and the overdrive light came on and began blinking.
The overdrive button on the shift selector would not work, but it drove okay. When I got home I shut off car a and restarted it and everything seemed fine. Drove it next day with no problems.
Any ideas what could have caused this?
A: Interrmitent short in overdrive's electrical system.
It's been diagnosed by vairous mechanics... some say rotors need re-surfacing, some say rear brakes need to be cleaned and adjusted, others claim the metallic particles in the pedals react to the summer weather when brakes are used.
I'd like to know the truth... The brakes have now been cleaned and adjusted, but not resurfaced, and still squeal....
How can the squealing stop?
A: Hi Crystal...... There is a product at your local parts store that you spray or spread on the pads and let it soak in...... also yes you must machine the rotors for a new smooth finish..... Ed
Electrical / Lighting Systems Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: How do i wire in a new stereo with no adapters? Do you have a list of wires i might need? could you maybe tell me what color wires do what?
Thank you!
A: Tyson, if the pigtail is coming out of back of stereo, your're in luck.
Best bet is to go to stereo shop and find outwhat goes to where.
red is power to ign.
black is to ground
yellow is to battery
Most of rest are for speakers
They should be paired up in colors
The one with stripes are ground,on your speaker
The conectors should be marked plus or minus
If you take the matching wires the one with stripe goes to ground on speaker, the other to positive.
Remember, if you mess it up, you fry your unit.... so best bet is to go to a local place and ask them, they will know it like the back of their hand.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving Not applicable
Q: Rough idle noticed this morning, drove 3 kms and the electrical malfunction light came on, and as I took my foot of the gas pedal the car stalled. Won't restart and keep idle.
A: Check the large hose that feeds air to the engine for a crack/ break/ clamp etc.
Q: The sound from rear is very loud when going in reverse and slightly noticable in forward motion.
This only happens when applying on brakes slowly.
At high speed when braking the car has tendency to shake noticably by steering wheel movement.
The car has four wheel anti-lock brakes. The model is 626 LX, 4 door. Please advise. Thank you.
A: Sounds like the brake rotors are out of round and will have to be machined....
Q: Hi, Last week I had the misfortune of blowing my engine. As a quick fix I decided to get an engine from the junk yard to replace it, until I could come up with money to buy a rebuilt one. When I went to the Junkyard to see if the had any engines in stock they said yes. Myself not knowing about engines went with their word and purchased the engines. I then found out that the motor they gave me was for an 1990 Ford Probe GT 2.2L Turbo, and not an 1991 Mazda 626 GT 2.2L Turbo. When I questioned it they said Ford and Mazda motors are the same for the years 1998 - 1992 is this true. Or did I get ripped off and this motor shouldnt be mounted into my car.
Another problem is that, now that I have the Ford Probe motor it is always over heating. I went ahead and bought a new radiator but it still tends to overheat. Does this have anything to do with the Ford Probe not matching up with the other parts in my Mazda 626. Also, when I go by parts should I now ask them to be for a Ford Probe or a Mazda 626.
Thanks for your help
Luis
A: Same engine in different clothing. Order parts as you normally would and treat the overheating problem as just that. Ed
Exhaust System Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I replaced the head gasket, manifold gasket etc. Marked hoses to reinstall. Lost marks, don't know which hose goes where. Can you send schematic where hoses go? Shade Tree Mech.
A: Hoses will generally be shaped and cut to the 'fits here' length... that narrows down the mystery.... Ed
Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When accelerating Always
Q: When shifting from low to 2nd gear (automatic transmission) the car hesitates slightly and the rpm's climb momentarily and then drop when it goes into 2nd gear. I am told it is a computer chip, but I wonder if the bands are slipping in the transmission. What is causing this?
A: Provided this is a new symptom and you have owned the car for a while, then it's okay to chase the computer thing first. Also, have the transmission serviced. Ed
All Part Groups Making Noise Happens always Always
Q: My engine just started to click. (1991 Mazda 626 lx) It has 132,000 miles on it and a rebuilt transmission from 6 months ago.
At first I thought it was a belt. But the sound seems to come from the part where you put oil in.
Ideas? Thanks.
A: The clicking is coming from the valve cover area? You have sticky, dry, or clogged lifters.
Try running motor flush for the next two oil changes. If the problem contiues, they may need to be replaced.
Q: The front and rear power windows on the passenger side of the car will go down with the switches on the door, but to put them up, I have to use the driver's switch.
I've done some research and it seems to be a fairly common problem, but I haven't found any solutions. If you have one, thanks.
A: replace the switches, the diodes are might be bad in them and are cheaper to replace.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Dimming Happens always Always
Q: The dash lights dim when the head lights are turned on. When the head lights are turned off the dash lights are back to normal.
A: Your alternator is not supplying enough current. Have it replaced with something a little bigger
should only cost about 60 70 dollars but replacing electrical components will cost you more.
Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens sometimes Not applicable
Q: The blower stops in speeds 1-4. Sometimes it just for 4-5 seconds, other times for several minutes.
A: It is the relay, bad connection, or the brushes are worn in the blower motor itself.
Check for voltage (need positive voltage and ground) to motor when inoperative. If you have voltage, the motor needs replacing. If not work your way back.
You may need to purchase a manual with diagrams.
Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens always Always
Q: My fan will only run in speed 4. In all other speeds it will not run. The AC only works in speeds 1 and 2. Would that be the speed control resistors for my blower motor?
A: Sure could be... might also be the switch itself....... Ed
Drive Train / Driveline Other When driving When warm
Q: When the trans shifts out of second, it revs up, and I have to let off the gas to get it to shift.
This is after my transmission was rebuilt, after driving a while, stopping and turning the car off. Like at a gas station.
After I let it sit for a while it will stop.
A: The seal is not sealing, unless the fluid is cold and therefore thicker.... Ed
Q: When shifting from park to drive the engine dies. And you can push low gear button and engine will not die, but when trying to accelerate engine pulsates and acts like it's starving for fuel. Changed fuel filter and no help. Checked fuel pump and it works fine. Installed new spark plugs and no help. Engine idles rough. Engine runs fine when driving over 55 mph.
Q: My 90 Mazda 626 runs hot and I've changed out the water pump, hoses, thermostat, fan, and belt. When I first changed everything, the system was fine, but it was during the winter months. As soon as the Spring came along, the car started to over heat again. I can fill the radiator (also about five years old) and drive about 6-7 miles and the water has disappeared. I assume that it is evaporating because it seems to be no water in the oil pan.
Also the heater in the car doesn't work. Could this be related?
A: Yes it could. You need to check for a blown head gasket. Not good, sorry.
Engine Won't Start Happens sometimes Not applicable
Q: The engine turns over, but won't start. it happens every once in a while(specially when I'm in a hurry)
The computer codes check normal.
I was told that the master selenoid relay or the starter are going out (within the starter).
if this is true what is the master selenoid relay and where is it located?
if this is not the problem, what is?
Please, help!!!
Alex G
A: You may only need a simple tune-up or a fuel injection cleaning. If the starter were going bad the engine would not turn over.
Q: My engine will not idle properly. When it heats to normal running condition, it will autmatically die. Also, there is one very loud tappet sound and that is my main concern right now. I am trying to find out if I could remove the rocker arm assembly but I have no specs to work with and I need to find out the best way to either replace that noisy lifter or rocker arm or whatever is causing it.
A: it is your spark plugs change them and the wires
Q: After I put a new engine in car, I tried to start the engine, but got no results.
After connecting the flex hose to the breather assembly, wich connects to some sort of sensor, the engine started, but smoked a lot.
I need to determine what the possibilities are for repair. What should I look for next?
A: Sounds like you connected one of the vaccuum lines to the PCV hose for venting the valve cover and engine....
I'm unsure of what to tell you because I would need more complete information....
If you can describe more completely, we will be able to help.... Ed
Q: Yesterday, the idle jumped from normal 750 rpm to 1500 to 2000 rpm. Checked the vacuum hoses and all seemed right. No recent work on car - it passed pollution inspection 2 months ago. Tried to reset computer by disconnecting battery - no change. Help?
A: Check for codes stored in the computer. Also the idle air control system. Ed
Q: I am wondering where I can find a ground effects kit, spoiler, and a hood scoop that would fit an '87 Mazda 626 gt turbo. It doesn't have to be a factory kit, I just want something that looks good. Do you know of a web site that would sell them, or do you have any suggestions of a brand that would look good and fit my car?
A: you might try www.wingswest.com They sell body kits.
Q: Hi, I need to replace the master cylinder on my '87 626. Do you have a nice diagram or steps? thanks!
A: Remove the master cylinder from the vehicle.
Be sure to use fender covers to protect the paint from accidental spills. Loosen and remove the two flared metal lines using a flare-nut wrench.
If there is no vacuum power brake, unhook the pedal pushrod from under the dash. This is not necessary on power brake cars.
Remove the nuts that hold the master cylinder in place.
Remove the master cylinder and dump the brake fluid in a suitable container for disposal.
Install and bench bleed the new master cylinder according to the manufacturer's direction.
Adjusting Brake Pedal Free Travel
Adjustment of pedal free travel is not usually required, but should be checked when the master cylinder is replaced. There should be less than 1/8 inch of free play between the brake pushrod and the back of the primary master cylinder piston or power booster. This translates to free pedal travel of about 1/4 to 1/2 inch.
Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When stopped When cold
Q: Hi, Jameson here. My 626 gives me lots of trouble when shifting into reverse.
It makes small crunching and grinding noises; it's difficult to actually enter the reverse gear.
When in reverse, or any other gear, everything's fine. And it's a lot better when warm.
Any ideas on fixing this without having to mortgage my art collection?
A: Yup....... send me the art collection and I will feel a whole lot better......
Now then for your car...... put it in second gear before shifting to reverse.... and then shift in one continuous motion from 2nd to reverse.....
Also a little lighter weight gear oil in the transmission will help..... Ed
Q: After I warm my car up and begin to drive, it bogs down, and now sometimes back fires in the engine.
I was told that this was my modegular, but I not quite sure what effect that would have on the performance of my carb.
Someone else told me to replace my fuel pump.
Can you please tell me what a modegular is and what it does?? Thanks.
A: I have honestly never heard of one. Sounds like the car is short of fuel. Ed
All Part Groups Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: The car starts and runs fine while cold, although it doesn't seem to have the power it should. Once it warms up, it really looses power especially on the highway. I believe the term you used is 'chugging'? It's fuel economy just completely went south as well. This seems to have happened since the weather turned cold. I've rebuilt the carburator; changed the plugs (which looked perfect), wires, cap, and rotor. Although the car starts and idles better than ever, It just has no power and I may as well be driving my pickup cuz the gas mileage is so bad. Any ideas?
A: Is the thermost working correctly and allowing the car to warm up completly? Ed
Q: The fuel economy of my 1985 mazda 626 2.0 is diabolical. It is regularly serviced but is now only returning 23 miles to the gallon, whereas it was returning 30+ before any ideas?
A: Fuel pressure regulator/oxygen sensor/carbon buildup on the back of the intake valves. Ed
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Not applicable Not applicable
Q: My turn signals just stopped working and so I went to our local part store and they gave me a 10 amp fuse and sent me home. Well, after no manuel to look at I just assumed that the fuse box would be under the sterring colom somewhere and well...I was sort of correct. I found one but almost everything labeled on it had nothing to do with my style of car( ie...sun roof, electric windows, door locks, seat warmer, and a few others that I have none of on my vehical)but I changed the two 10 amp fuses for the fun of it.Is there another fuse box that i am missing? Our old honda had two but I can not find the second one for the mazda if there is one. Could it be the relay itself,And could a lay person putthat in without an instruction manuel? ( I just changed a part on my car that was spraying gas everywhere some thing that I knew it shouldn't be doing. I took hoses and clips off of the part until I got it out and went to the part store and asked for"one of these" it turned out to be a fuel pump.) Hope you can give me a little direction to go seeming the part store was useless.
A: You may also need to buy a flasher. A round metal fuse that plugs into the main fuse box.
Q: how do I remove the drum on my 626 lx in order to replace the wheel bearings? Help!!! =)
A: If you are talking about the rear wheel, you have to remove the spindle nut. The nut should be "peened" so it can't loosen on its own. Use a small punch to remove the peen. When the nut is removed, the drum will come off. The outer race will come off with the drum, and you will have access to the inner race.
After you replace the bearings and grease them, be sure you use a manual to read up on setting the correct preload on the bearings. It really is a pretty easy job. tckarch@yahoo.com
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