All Part Groups Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: Dear Sir,
I have a 1994 Mazda RX7 and the check engine light flashes on and off during the first five minutes of driving. Where can I get a the digital code checker and system selector so that I can decode this?
This car was bought used and has the dealer installed car alarm and a horn car alarm in it.
The dealer installed alarm is called Prolock.
Thanks
A: You can try you local auto parts store, I know Pep Boys and autozone carry them. Sometimes you don't need a decoder and you can do it by bridging the poles on the computer connector. the engine light will pulse out a code. Try to find some literature on the web or the library. When was the last time it was tuned up. If you can't remember, go ahead and do one. Get Haynes shop manual, they are usually only about 15 bucks.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: I need to ohm out the air speed sensor... Which wires should show resistance?
A: There is a 3 or 4 way checking sequence that you have to use....
You'll need to locate that info for yourself at this point... We're not ready to run that live yet.... Ed
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving Not applicable
Q: My warning lights (dummy lights) started flickering 2 days ago, and now they are on constantly.
I checked the battery terminals and cleaned them, but it's still doing it, and now the ALL of the lights (warning, instrument, headlights, radio, etc) are dimmer than normal.
I parked the car immediately and am writing you now for advice.
Thanks
Susie
A: Susie..... sounds like maybe the charging system (alternator) has stoped charging for you.... you may also have broken wiring in the harness loom that leads to the alternator.... Ed
Ignition System Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: RUN FOR AN HOUR SHUT IT OFF FOR AN HOUR THEN IT SMELLS LIKE IT FLOODED
A: carb/injectors are flooding..I used to own one..it needs carb rebuild..if injected the fuel regulator diaphram is leaking down letting fuel bypass.
Thanks,
dwayne
Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens always Always
Q: The heater just blows air. Even when the a/c is turned on. No cold air.
I had someone look at it, but all they did was get it to the point where it was just blowing hot air, with no fan control (high or low)....
Do I need a new Heater controller?
A: Tough question on expensive parts......
You need to buy a good complete manual on the a/c system for this car and have some basic test equipment like a DVOM......
If you don't know what a DVOM is, you'll have trouble using it, and you now need to find a technician you like and trust....
That feeling in your stomach when talking with someone is an indicator.....
Q: The engine runs rough, it sounds like it needs new spark plugs, even after it is has a tune up.
Could this have anything to do with the EGR valve?
A: Egr valve is a problem on these cars, but so are spark plug wires hooked up in the wrong order.....
'I' for intake and 'E' for exhaust.....marked on the cap.... Ed
Q: The car won't start. I've replaced both the Positive(+) and Negative(-) battery cables.
A: If the starter is drawing more than 200 amps, or the battery is low. Then the computer does not have enough left-over power. Test the Starter and battery. Ed
Q: My car will not start , it is draining my battery down. when I jump it off with cables it starts right up but battery will not charge more when driving it.
A: Check the charging system for proper output.....Ed
Q: My son conected the battery reverse polarity and now the car doesn't start. Is there something that gets fried if the battery is hooked up backwards? Should mention that it was only left that way momentarily because the cables didn't fit.
Q: When driving and RPM 's increasing to about 4500 the engine slowly starts making a droning type sound and Vibration that increases with added RPM and quickens and dissapates when RPM's decrease below 3500.
Its like a perfect sine wave type noise that gets longer and louder with increased RPM.
A: This is pretty easy. Typical with rotary engines. It sounds like your secondary injectors aren't opening due to the solenoid resistor (little silver box with mounting tab on both sides,located on the lower inner fender.Usually hard to see. Has wire lead coming out of each end with 4 pin connectors.) It has 4 ceramic wirewound resistors inside it. when one or two resistors open up, it doesn't allow your second injectors to open at higher rpm's (typically happens at 1500rpm)when secondaries are supposed to open) this causes alot of vibration and loss of power due to loss of fuel supply. Replace the silver solenoid resistor package and you should be fine. Let me know how it turns out.
Q: The car floods out and will not start after turning it over when it is cold. Ihave to pull the plugs and let it dry out. Why does it flood?
A: the reason it floods is probably because of a malfunction in the computer wich will tell the car to continue sending fuel to the engine the next time you turn the key. this only happens if you dont let it continue its warm up cycle (let it run for about 5-10 minutes before shutting it off) you can also start the car by pulling the egi fuse and cranking it and then put it back in and crank it( it may take several times.
Q: The passenger side window if off alignment and will only roll up half way. It seems as if it is off track and when I tried to put it back on, it rolled up all the way. I then rolled down the window and it went right off the track again.
A: You need to take the door panel off and inspect the window regulator, check the tracks and make sure the little wheels that ride up and down them are all there. also the bolts that keep the track where it is supposed to be may be loose
Drive Train / Driveline Other When driving When warm
Q: Ok i just blew my 1st gen trans and need to know if its possible to take a 2nd gen 5-speed trans and bolt it up to a 1st gen without changing the flywheel clutch and driveshaft and possibly the rear
there seems to be an over abundance of 2nd gens and not very many first gens
you can email me at crx4xharder@hotmail.com thank u for your time
A: A suggestion instead of a 2nd gen transmission would be a Ford T5 Transmission from the Mustang. The model year you are looking for would be from 85-90. This is a stout transmisson that seems to be popular with RX7 enthusiasts.
Q: Most of my driving is freeway, and I usually get 15-17 mpg (re-fill after about 170 miles).
Back when the car was new, I thought it got about 220-240 miles before I needed a refill.
Does my current mileage sound normal, and if not what should I check?
My tach also starts to jump around as the engine gets hotter and I notice it runs a little rougher.
It gets worse the more electronic stuff is on, especially the air conditioning.
Any ideas? Thanks.
A: Move up to a better grade of fuel.... not just the octane number but name brand also... the discount gas companies mix a high level of alchohol with the gas and it messes with the power and running... Ed
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