Q: When stopped at a stop light when the A/C cycles off, the enging chokes and surges and almost quits as if it's starved for gas or air.
When the A/C cycles on, the RPM is normally increased up a little by the idle air control to compensate for the compressor load and all is fine. This is normal.
The idle air control has been replaced, the throttle body cleaned, gas filter is new. A vacuum gauge indicates no vacuum leaks in any of the vacuuum hoses or intake manifold.
As a matter of fact, I have two of these cars with the exact same engine and the vacuum gauge indicates the same vacuum at idle, reving the engine, and a quick wide open throttle on both cars.
Yet, only this car chokes and sometimes stalls when the A/C cycles off when the car is idleing. When driving above idle the engine is fine with the Compressor clutch cycling.
No computer codes were triggered. The PVC valve is clean.
I know a bit about this car as I have the service manuals and I do my own servicing. But this problem has me stumped.
The car runs beautifully at all times other than described above.
Thank you for your help.
A: Check in your manual on how to set base idle..... someone has changed things around on you and the car is set wrong..... Ed
Q: '93 Mercury wagon. Snapped the timing belt while driving down the highway approx 40mph. Now how do I get the new timning belt on?? Got the timing cover off by also removing the right engine mount..
Same tooth count and size as old/broken one, yet it seems approx 2-3 inches too short and doesn't want to go on to the top camshaft sproket?
The middle tensioner is loose, top and bottom shaft pointers-up and down, yet when attempting to install, seems too short?? Would like a factory timnig belt diagram if possible.. sjc@rconnect.com
A: "Gates Belts & Hoses" has a great little book with that information, marks, etc. Ed
Drive Train / Driveline Other When accelerating Always
Q: The transmission seems to miss passing gear if you step into it too hard, but you let go of the gas pedal, and it seems to catch hard. Then you're fine. What does the doc say?
A: This is possibly a throttle cable misadjusted, and / or a vacuum leak......
Check fluid levels also, of course.... Ed
Drive Train / Driveline Other Not applicable Always
Q: It seams to be locked in 1st gear, and when I let out the clutch, it used to make a rattling sound.
But after I took out the shaft, it just bogs down.
I have the shaft out and I put my finger in the shaft hole and felt a cylinder type part moving around loosely in there.
Then it fell down into the trannie.
I can no longer reach it and I'm stumped what to do.... I can't afford a mechanic.
A: The least expensive way now is to get a good used transmission if you feel you can replace it yourself.....
Rebuilding it is not for the faint of heart.... Ed
Ignition System Won't Start Not applicable Not applicable
Q: Hi. My husband went to start his 1988 Mercury Tracer and when he puts the keys in the ingnition, the horn sounds. It doesn't even get to the point of attempting to "turn over". When he takes the keys out of the ignition, the horn stops. We cannot determine why this is happening. It almost seems someone has wired the ignition/starter to the horn but we didn't think that was possible. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
A: I think the horn wire has a bare spot in it inside the steering column and when the key is inserted, it provides the ground path. Just like pushing the horn button. Ed
Q: I actually have two questions for you. I have a 1988 Mercury Tracer 2 Door Blue Hatch Back. The problem I'm having is when I pump the brakes the car stalls out. When I start the car and open the hood the enigne vibrates. The car only stalls out if I apply the brake or go slow when turning. I had It checked out by a mechanic and the man told me that I might have to replace a part near the front where the air filter is. I had a lot of repairs done to this car. I had rear struts put on, new muffler, new front axle's, front rotors, front and back brakes, new front calipers, new tires, new spit fire spark plugs new rotor & cap. And I'm having the wheel cylinders in the rear done along with the flex line hoses that are cracked on both sides. My dad mention that my spark plugs might be off that's why it's stalling when I pump the brakes. The other question I have is my insturments panel lights do not work and I don't know why. I replaced all the fuses in the fuse box that did not work, so I changed all the bulbs again that did not work. I have a roll wheel to turn the lights on low or high I don't know if that is shot or not. It comes on once in a while usually when I slam my door. I replaced the bulbs in the door, the cig lighter light, the hatch back door light, the dome light, the gear shift light, and still nothing.
My main concern is why my car stalls when I apply the brake? I know that when I open the hood the engine vibrates and wants to stall out.I can be reached at my e-mail address at Blake_may@yahoo.com thank you.
A: Your stalling problem is most likely being caused by a vacuum leak at the power brake booster. The vacuum line may be loose or broken or the booster itself may have a ruptured diaphram. This will also cause the rough idle you have.
The light problem could be a bad headlight switch.
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