All Part Groups Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: Hello!
I have difficulties in identifying the circuits related to 2 engine compartment fuses burnt on a Nissan Maxima 2000 GLE because I can't read the indication on the cover.
I would like to know if I could find information on the web which would tell me the circuit related for each position of the fuse in the fuxe box.
thank you
A: Hav'ent found it yet. I use Mitchell on demand.
Very expensive. Most chilton manuals don't have very extensive wiring diagrams. Good luck
Chassis / Suspension & Steering Malfunction When driving Always
Q: My Maxima has a front end/steering wheel vibration that started at 25,000 miles when I had a dealer rotate the tires. I brought it back to them, the balaced the wheels/tires and did an alignment. The vibration persisted. It happens at 65-75 mph.
I brought it to another dealer who also aligned, balanced, and machined my brake rotors, then told me it was road noise. I drive the same roads I always have, and there was no vibration for the first 25,000 miles.
Another non-nissan mechanic said my tires were out-of-round, I just replaced my tires at 60,000 miles. When the tires were replaced, they were balanced and I had the shop do an alignment. The car is at another Nissan dealer now, and surprisingly, they want to balance and align the wheels for $170. I'm fairly sure it's not the brakes, alignment, or balance. They always say ball joints and the steering/suspension components are ok, but something is definitely wrong. Any thoughts? I'm going nuts!
Dave Giroux
Rhode Island
David_A_Giroux@raytheon.com
A: Ask them to check the c.v. half-shafts. Some cars have a vibration dampner on one or both shafts. Your problem could be there if everything else is good like you have been told.
Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens always Always
Q: It works on A/C when temperture is set at 65 degrees. From 66 and up it turns to heat. Could it be the temp sensor. And How do I change it or repair it. Thanks!
A: Could be a sensor or the control panel. Works on Max only. Ed
Q: Engine makes a grinding noise during cold start only, after warms up engine has no problem.
Grinding noise seems to be louder everyday. I've checked all around the engine and found no
loose material. What do you think it is?
thanks
Q: I have 96 maxima,grinding noise occurs when starting cold engine,
about 3 seconds of grinding noise occurs. If it is the starter,do they use the same parts as the
95 models?
thanks
david
A: Sounds like the starter gear is not meshing correctly with the ring gear. Yes 95 to 96. Ed
Ignition System Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: I have just purchased a used maxima se with 113,000 mls. On purchase a new battery and cables were placed due to a drag on the starter but now it occasionally takes some time to start.
The starter turns over but the vehicle does not crank.
Usually, I give it gas which seems to help after about 10sec. and other times it just starts right up.
Is it the starter or fuel problem. Other times i turn the key and nothing happens no sound.
Then I try again and it starts.
Some times if you hold the key at full turn it takes acouple of seconds before the starter cranks.
Im worried my wife will get stranded. thanks for any suggestions
A: What year is the car? At first I would suspect a loose connection some where between the ignition switch and the starter. Second, find out if the starter uses any type of relay switch.
Q: There is a harsh sound from the engine that lasts for 5 secs after the engine engages then goes away. It does not happen when the engine is warm.
A: I have seen this on several nissans maximas and altimas it is the starter winding down.
My maxima does it my ex's altima did it, but only in cold weather on cold starts, after a short warmup the sound disapears.
A new starter should fix this if you can't stand the noise. Mine has been doing this for quite some time.
Q: How difficult is it to change the front brakes on a 96 Maxima ? Is it smething a backyard mechanic can do or should I take to dealer ? MAking a loud squealing noise when moving. I am sure it is sensor on pads.
A: Changing disk brakes is easy enough, there are 2 torque screws to remove from the caliper, then pull off the pads and mic your rotor.
Your rotor might be untrue or contain brake dust, in which case it will cause the squealing.
Before putting brake pads back on, push in the piston on each side with a c-clamp, and put some disc quiet on rotor.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always
Q: The Bose stero system works well, but recently the display lights have stopped working. How can I get my display lights back?
thanks
A: IT COULD BE THE LIGHTBULBS FOR THE STEREO ITSELF CONTACT THE DEALER AND ASK IF A REPLACEMENT LIGHTBULB IS AVAILABLE FOR YOUR VEHICLE. IF NO LIGHTBULB IS AVAILABLE CONTACT YOUR LOCAL SALVAGE YARD AND CHECK PRICES OF USED STOCK STEREO ASSEMBLYS(APROX$15-50)
Ignition System Won't Start When starting When warm
Q: The car would not start this afternoon, the radio and horn worked, and jumps did no good.
My sevice station attendant (mechanic-not-on-duty) load tested the battery and the battery was fine..
Do I have a starter problem??
A: As in "click click click" but no engine turning over..... that would usually be the contact buttons in the starter solenoid..... Ed
Q: For performance, one thing that has been suggested is to take the CAMs off a 300ZX and trade them out with mine. (I have a 95 Nissan Maxima I've done a lot of aftermarket upgrades on it.)
Because the engines are similar...and before I spend the money to do that I'm wondering if it would work.
My car is real quick... but I've kinda hit a dead end road on what I can do.
And if they are similar engines...I'm wondering if the Manifolds can be transfered also??? Your
thoughts???
thanks,
John Cranfill
A: Nitrous............. Nitrous............ Nitrous and Nitrous........... Fast, easy, inexpensive and if you stay with the fogger 100HP kit, you will not damage anything except for your copetitions' ego..... Ed
Ignition System Won't Start Happens sometimes When cold
Q: Hi, I have a 1995 Maxima GXE. It had trouble starting, was hesitating before starting. A few weeks ago it would not start at all.
I had it towed to a trusted mechanic in the neighbourhood, and they told me that I need a new starter.
They replaced the starter with a reconditioned aftermarket one (they said it is suitable for this car).
The car was OK for a week, then it was hesitating again, and yesterday it would not start at all. It was clicking and turning, but it was not catching.
"AAA" came and managed to start it by depressing the gas pedal while starting, which should not be the case with electronic ignition.
After running for a couple of minutes it started OK.
In the afternoon I took it to a Nissan dealer for diagnosis. The service manager told me that I need an original Nissan updated (new model) starter, and that the aftermarket starter does not have enough amperage.
Do you think this is the case? Please let me know ASAP, I would really appreciate it.
Leah
A: No, after market starters are fine. All battery cables should be checked and clean the battery terminals.
Drive Train / Driveline Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I took my car in to change it's tires and they checked my brakes but noticed that my cv-joints are going bad. I want to know if they need to be replaced soon and if it's possible to do on my own.
A: When CV Joints are "going bad" they will make a noise. A clunking or a "binding-up" sound. Ed
Q: I washed the car on Saturday morning, wife started it and ran it for only about 20 seconds to put in garage. She tried to start it on Monday morning and it was flooded.
I removed all six platinum plugs, cleaned with lacquer thinner, ran the engine with plugs removed to clear the cylinders, re-installed plugs and engine started reluctantly.
Ran good after a few minutes but check engine light stayed on, I assume because O2 sensor got fouled with fuel.
Called Nissan who said to bring it in to reset. They found no failures and reset light.
How do they reset the check engine light? I removed battery cable and turned ignition on for a minute, and that did NOT reset it.
A: Nissan sometimes has a relay looking box up by the drivers kickpanel that has a button on it. Ed
Q: My wife's Maxima flooded the other day (I washed it Saturday and she started it and pulled it directly into the garage and shut it off after only about 15 seconds)and then did not start it till Monday morning. I had to remove all six plugs and clean with lacquer thinner to get it restarted. After a few minutes it did run normally but the check engine light stayed on (I assume due to O2 sensor getting flooded with raw fuel). I removed the battery cables, and turned on the ignition for about a minute, but that failed to reset the check engine light. Nissan did finally reset it (they found no faulty parts) as my wife took it in about a week later.
How does one reset the check engine light on a 95 Maxima? Is there a consumer model plug-in diagnostic tester available to hook up to the connector on the passenger side under the center console?
A: Usually a push button on the control unit by the left kick panel. Ed
Q: My check engine light keeps coming on, but I had my complete engine wiring harness replaced, because I was told that was the problem. Well, the stalling out has stopped, but the light is still on...what could be causing this?
Also my battery light has come on...what is the cause of this, I just got a new battery not too long ago.
A: The check engine light comes on and stays on when a problem is detected and the computer sets a trouble code.
If the problem was related to the wiring harness, then all that might be needed is the code cleared from memory.
If so it should turn off after the vehicle is started 50 times from when the problem was fixed. Or a Nissan service center could clear the code.
On the battery light, have the alternator tested to see if it is charging sufficiently.
Q: When I accelerate, there is a hesitation between 1500 and 2300 rpm's. When driving, there is a hesitation and skipping at 1600-1900 rpm's. Only noticable under a load. When car is in neutral or park, there is no noticable cut out. It does however idle low, around 600-700 rpm's. I can usually accelerate hard through any of the cut outs/hesitations. New tranny approximately 18months old. All regular services from dealer.
A: I JUST HAD THAT PROBLEM, I HAVE 1992 NISSAN MAX
SE, STANDARD TRANS. IT WAS THE CRANK SENSOR
THAT WAS LOSING ITS SIGNAL, I ALSO CLEANED THE
THROTTLE BODY, AND HAD CHANGED THE THROTTLE
POSITION SENSOR, IT COULD BE THE FUEL PUMP,
OR THE FILTER, CHECK THE PLUGS AND COILS, BUT
THAT WAS THE FIX FOR ME AFTER ALOT OF SEARCHING,
MAKE SURE THE TIMMING IS CORRECT ALSO AFTER
YOU CHANGE THE CRANK SENSOR.
Q: My '93 24 valve 3.0 engine has a loud tappet noise when you start it up after sitting for about an hour - sometimes.
When the engine is cold (sitting all night) you can hear the tappet noise a little. But, after the engine has warmed up and has been shut down for an hour or so the tappet noise is much louder.
I put some Motor-Up in the engine when I change the oil, (every 3000 miles) and it helped a little.
Is there a tappet hanging up??? The noise goes away as you increase speed, but it's very noticeable at lower RPM'S.
Thank you for your time.
A: It does sound like a bad tappet is the problem.... Some of these engines had a camshaft lobe problem also..... carefully listen along the valve cover with a long screwdriver, and hear where the noise is loudest before removing the cover to adjust.... gets you closest to the problem.... Ed
Chassis / Suspension & Steering Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: The car has vibration, mostly at 75mph the hood shakes its so bad. The tires are new as of 3/00. I was wondering if I need to balance them again or if my struts are out and I am just experiencing the road?
Q: The problem I am having is the engine just cuts off while I am Driving. It also happens when I am stopped and just about to move off. Sometimes it happens when I am just standing still Idling
I changed the fuel Pump But I dont know if I fixed the problem. The on board Computer is not pickup any codes so the only thing I can think of is Fuel Problem. My car has the Dual Overhead Cam engine, if thats any help to you. Please help E-Mail Alphamega01@hotmail.com
A: Change the control module. If engine gets hot and shuts off and cools down and restarts, this is the problem.
Chassis / Suspension & Steering Making Noise When turning Not applicable
Q: My 93 maxima makes a taping when turning
the car is the seares with dual over head cams
is it the cv joint. and if it's how do I replace it.
A: This definitely sounds like the cv joints are bad. It may be only one but if you're going to change them you might as well change all of them at one time because more than likely the rest will fail soon. There are 2 ways you can do this. You can take the cv shafts off and replace the u-joints on them or you can just buy some rebuilt shafts that are already assembled and ready to be installed.To remove and install these shafts both front wheels must come off and usually the ball joints and anything else connected to the shafts(like brakes and rotors,etc.)have to come off.Then with a long flathead pry bar remove the shafts by prying between the shaft and transmission housing.Sometimes it takes minimal effort,but sometimes you need Godzilla.
Doing this yourself can save a lot of money but if you can't I'd suggest comparing the cost of having someone replace the u-joints versus having someone replace the whole shafts. It seems to me that it'll probably be cheaper to just buy the rebuilt shafts so that you don't have to pay for the labor of some mechanic to take them off,change out the joints,then install them.I could be wrong though,so do some research before you commit to any mode of action.
Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When driving Always
Q: My wife owns a 1993 maxima gxe with 140,000 miles on it. It has ran perfectly up until tonight. She told me she was driving up a shallow incline, about 1/4 mile long and the car started to rev more...She got herself to a service station and the tranny fluid was fine...I met her there, and when you drive the car in drive, you can shift from first to second, but then it will just rev,,,at about 30 miles per hour. If your in L2, the car will still do about 50 or so and feels fine, but DRIVE is not shifting and slipping around 30 mph...any ideas???
A: Your clutches are worn in the transmission. It needs to be rebuilt. There's nothing you can do but replace transmission or rebuild it yourself if you are capable, because it will eventually go out completely.
Q: My 93 maxima is extremely sluggish between idle and 3,000 rpm's. The fuel filter, plugs, plug wiers, roter, and distributer cap are new. I think it could be the throttle position sensor, or the fuel pressure sensor, but im not sure. Maybe someone can help me out.
Thanks
codyhigbee@yahoo.com
A: TPS or possibly several other sensors. Remove the driver side kick panel to expose the ECM.
Pull it out, take a small screwdriver and turn the little screw looking thing in the side of the box.
Start the car, notice how many times the green light blinks, pauses, blinks, pauses. Write these down.
EXAMPLE:blink once, pause, blink 4 times... this is a code 14. It will show each code then it will repeat then again. Make sure you return the screw to the prior position when finished.
Take these codes to an Auto Zone or Advance Auto Parts or somewhere similar.
Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When accelerating Always
Q: My trans slips, it take forever accelerating
this vehicle up to 40 miles and then seems OK.
I do strip transmission a part. I found burn
High claches.
I buy new.... and it still not driving OK.
I ask some mechanic and he said I have a problem with module or valve bank.
What opinion you got???
A: Well, if you replaced the claches and its stil doing it, then he might be right.
Make sure your transmission is full of fluid and you are using the right kind.
Q: I have a Maxima SE which has the dohc engine. Occasionally my car dies out when I shift it into drive. Sometimes it dies while I'm stopped and then begin to move.
I've changed the fuel pump but it still happens.
This has happened most often when the engine is cold. Can it be that I don't give the car enough time to warm up?
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always
Q: The power antenae does not move. If you turn off the radio it sounds like the motor is running but the antenae does not move.
A: It's possible that either the plastic teeth have broken off of the plastic rail that is moved up and down by the gear in the motor or possibly the rail has broken. You can buy just the antenna portion of the antenna/motor from Nissan for about $50
Q: Fuel use seems to increase for normal use.
I can fill the tank all the way up, first had the car it would go 50 miles before going down to the first mark.
Now its within the 20's to 30's.
Fuel goes down while driving, especially on acceleration.
What's the fix ? ? ?
A: Make sure the rubber portion of the fuel filler is not leaking. I had an 89 that did the same thing... The first 1/8 went 2 X as fast as the rest, check it out.
You may need to fill it up and let it set for a few minutes.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Other When starting When warm
Q: Sometimes when starting the car, it doesn't start on the first try. I have to do it maybe twice.
It only does this sometimes, not everyday. Would that be something is wrong with the starter?
A: Ahhhhhh...... the old click click first trick....
That would be the brass contacts in the starter solenoid......
They are replaceable once the starter is out and not expensive either....
The rest of the starter is almost bullet proof.... Ed
Q: My oil light goes on when the car warms up and stays on at idle but goes out when the rpm's increase. There are no oil leaks and the oil level is full. The car has 112k miles and has been meticulously maintained. This is kinda scary. Is this just a bad oil pressure sending unit/sensor ?? could it be a bad oil pump ??...........Bill
A: Sounds like screen on oil pump is clogged. Flush engine and oil often should fix problem.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Other Happens always Not applicable
Q: Speedometer doesn't work. Maybe a bad speed sensor? Also need to know which one to get. I know its a "Vehicle speed sensor" but on car parts, there are 3 of them listed. Which one to buy?
A: your speed sensor is located on your auto-tranmssion gearbox. replace the faulty sensor
If yours is a manual tranmission gearbox then you'll probably have a faulty cable. replace it.
Q: Would you tell me where the transmission solenoid switch is on the engine?? Thanks.
A: If this is a fully programmable transmission, there will be a number of solenoids on it......
Can you describe the identity more completely for me and I will find this for you....
Also...what problem are you trying to solve???
All Part Groups Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I was told buy a mechanic that I would need a new transmission in my car. Around how much should I be charged? The car is a front wheel drive. He told me initially that it was a seal that needed to be replaced. Or, the worst would be the aluminum hose that runs through the pan. I have only seen a small amount of oil leaking.
Can you help me?
A: If it runs and shifts fine and it's only a small leak, why spend a ton of money on it? Just check the transmission fluid regularly and add more fluid when necessary. Ed
Q: The drivers side window on my 1990 Maxima sometimes works and sometimes doesn't.
When you use the regular window switch it won't roll down, when you use the one touch window it goes down sometimes but then automatically comes right back up on its own. Thank you!
A: Sounds like the switch assembly. Get a closer look at it and use logic to confirm.... Ed
Q: Tranmission was just rebuilt. Car won't shift into 3rd Auto tranny; possible throttle positioning sensor ?
A: Throttle position sensor is not the problem, must be a bad or stuck 2d to 3rd shift valve or shift solenoid. You should take it back to the rebuilder.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start Not applicable Not applicable
Q: It has a 5-speed transmission. The car has an anti-theft system. There is 12 volts to the starter at the run position. When the iginition switch is turn to start, there is no voltage on the selonoid terminal.
We put on a new starter. We can hot wire it off the battery to the starter selonoid with the key in the run position and the clutch pedal depressed and it will start. The problems started when the radio was changed about 3 weeks earlier. NO clicking. Can push to start and pop clutch. All the lights and radio work. The battery has 12 volts.
A: Try disconnecting and by-passing the neutral safety switch on clutch pedal. Don't know what this has in common with radio, but it's worth a try. Hope this helps
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Not applicable Always
Q: I have a problem with the electrical system. The dash lights(gages) do not light up when the headlights are turned on, and the rear defroster does not work, and the intermittent wiper setting also does not work when the headlights are turned on.
However, if I open the door the dash lights come on, as well as the rear defroster, and intermittent wipers.
I found a bad fuse....Which was indicated as being for the horn...I replaced it to no avail...Problem still there.
I also noticed if I turn on the headlights, without the engine running I can hear the relay for the defroster clicking constantly.....
Can you be of some help please????????
Thanks
CHuck
A: I think you have a wiring at the fuse panel or possibly inside the fuse panel problem. Something is "feeding" power to the wrong circuits. Ed
Q: the engine wont turn unless I step on the gas, and then vibrates badly. The noise I hear when starting sounds like metal quickly hitting each other.... Then the engine feels like it is choking for gas... and accelerates, then decelerates to slow stalling... and you can feel it vibrate badly... I changed the fuel filter and spark plugs, even tried fuel cleaner treatment. Nothing so far. Any insight? Thank you in advance.
A: Sounds like the Fuel Injectors. 6 total. and they are very expensive. better to fix the ones you have. new ones are about a grand... I think..more even. To prevent in future use high octane fuel, you can get more info at mxima.org. go to forums, then go to 3RD GEN MAXIMA (89-94). THERES MANY PAGES DATING way back. just look..for FUEL INJECTORS as the tittle of the thread.
All Part Groups Malfunction When accelerating Not applicable
Q: Hi,
The auto transmission on my nissan maxima is being weird these days... when i shift from P or N to D and accelerate, it doesnt move while the engine is revving well, so i have to pull the gear shif a bit further backwards staying with in D (like just tap it backwards a bit) and then the car starts to move...do u think the transmission is going bad or is it something minor?
A: It sounds like something minor. Check the linkage between the shifter and the transmission. You will probably find that it has a worn out bushing at one of the connecting points. They are made of nylon and do not last forever. You should be able to get replacements at the dealer.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always
Q: my digital dashboard cluster on 1989 nissan maxima does not light up or anything
A: I know that's it's probably some kind of wiring problem. You might check to see if there's wires loose or if there's a short. Also check your fuses to make sure all of them are good. Definitely some kind of electrical.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: Fan switch will not work it only works on "high" speed.
This is the heat or air conditioner fan.
A: This is a common problem on Maximas.
Located under the dash on the passenger side (below glove compartment) is the heater/ac box. On the side closest to the seat, you will see an electrical plug with 3 wires. unplug, then remove the two screws holding the unit into the heater box.
It's only 2 inches wide and 3 inches tall.(not very big) It is called a fan speed controller.
We replace these in our shop quite often. Hope this helps
Q: I have a 1985 Nissan Maxima v-6 3 liter, and im lost as to what my problem could be.
We have just replaced the fuel pump, so the car is getting gas, it just does not have throttle response you can give it full gas and it goes blaaagh.
Now, it doesn't have spark. we were playing with it; it got spark it was running then it died. Back to no spark.
The diagnosic in the car said the the crank angle sensor, air flow meter, the cylinder head temp. sensor were all needing repair.
Even before the no spark situation, my car was doing goofy things like i would have to push the gas down a quarter way to start in the morning, then i would try driving and i would be able to go about 15 mph, after a mile of slowly speeding up, (thats when I gave up and drove home at 15 mph, and parked it) then she gave up and there is noting.
The engine itself is doing weird things as well, such as after im done turning it over it will start jumping (sparking too) or if i turn on the rear defrost the engine fan turns on. This is the weirdest thing I have ever seen.
I need some help or direction I dont know what to do next, Im begining to hate my car.
karen
oh, there was a recall on my fuel injectors, and the guy I bought the car from said that they were all new could it have been not replaced properly
A: I hate to say it Karen, but it's time for a new car. This one is gonna nickel and dime ya' to death.
Q: The engine is sluggish at start and bogs down as you accelerate.
I replaced the spark plugs, distributor, cables, coil, fuel injectors, fuel and air filter, fuel pressure valve, hoses, and air intake mechanism.
A: Check the fuel pressure....... also a possible throttle position switch problem....
Heating / Cooling System Tuning When accelerating Always
Q: When air conditioner is on, the idle speed is no longer increased to compensate. So the car dies when taking off at traffic lights, etc. Idles rough. What is the part called that should increase the idle speed when the air conditioner is turned on?
A: I am not familiar with that year, but it should either be a "fast idle solenoid" or "IAC" idle air control circuit.
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