Q: A mechanic replaced my fuel injectors but used two different types - 3 of the one type and 1 of another type.
He said that this model (1992 Nissan Stanza) needs the two different types... he said the part is not Nissan but Bristol (or something like that).
When I asked my local Nissan dealer... he said it required 4 injectors (16600-40F15) and suggested the first mechanic replace the other injectors with Nissan parts.
My car is not running well (gas mileage and power). The injectors were originally replaced because of a gas smell.
Where do I go from here?
The mechanic replaced the O rings, 4 injectors, fuel pump and the fuel regulator (all stemming from a gas leak problem.)
I have had the car in for diagnostics and the fuel mixture is not correct.
Does this car need two different types of injectors?
Do you know about the (Bristol, I believe) replacement part manufacturer? Thank you for your help.
A: The Bristol part is just an aftermarket supplier and I personally have no problem with their quality...
The question that comes to mind for me is..."what makes the one odd cylinder different enough to require a different injector than the other three???".....
Ask the mechanic and trust the feeling in the pit of your stomach as the truth meter......Ed
Q: I have a 1992 stanza never had problems but recently started overheating . exhaust manifold gets red hot . i pulled the catalyctic converter and replaced it but the thing still gets hot can there be aqnother restriction in the exhaust system.
A: Your car could be running a lean air fuel mixture. Try checking the computer for fault codes. It sounds like a bad oxygen sensor possibly.
Drive Train / Driveline Chugging When driving When warm
Q: Trying to change gears and is a little sluggish about going into overdrive.
A: IF VEHICLE IS A CLUTCH DRIVEN VEHICLE THE PRESSURE PLATE COULD BE GOING, OR IF VEHICLE IS AN AUTOMATIC THE BANDS MIGHT NEED ADJUSTING OR THE CLUTCH DISKS NEED REPLACING
Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When driving Always
Q: What comprises changing the entire clutch and how much does it usually run?
A: Suspend engine from overhead bracket.... Remove transmission assembly (not fun without the proper tools) and replace clutch unit......
In my world it is approx $450.00 parts and labor included....
Q: I've had the head professionally done .
The car is ticking as though it's a clock. The car is not smoking and is not burning oil. Please tell me what is the corrective action.
A: Either the chain is not tight or a lifter is bad.
Exhaust System Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: Catalytic converter came dislodged from exhaust
manifold (?). it's just sort of hanging there.
Is it possible to bolt it back into place without replacing the whole converter?
A: As long as the flange etc is not damaged, sure. Ed
Q: Car starts fine.
You can drive until you reach aprox. 15 mph with out problems, then it starts to chug. It runs rough everytime you step on gas to go forward. No matter how much gas you apply it will not go any faster. Problem goes away when it warms up, aprox 10 min.
1988 Four cyl
Automatic transmission.
New wires have been installed.
Two mechanics have looked at it with no luck.
Please respond if possible to Japasciuto@aol.com
A: So there is no fuel enrichment. Needed for cold engines. Ed
Chassis / Suspension & Steering Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I'm in the process of replacing my power steering gear. I've tried several different angles and practically every direction, and I can not get it through that little access hole where you can see the actual gear.
(I have the rack mounting bolts removed and all other associated hardware removed.)
In the Haynes manual, it states that the rack is to be removed through the drivers wheel well....
Can you give me some pointers please?
Thankyou for your time.
A: In all the years of doing this.... only one car came out through the driver side, and it was not a Nissan..... All the others came out the passenger side......
Q: My car would start at first but stall and it is an automatic transmission. I replaced the plugs and wires, fuel filter and distributor cap. After I replaced all the parts it was still doing to same thing so I adjusted the timing. Now it will start and sounds fine but then it will start choking and then it will sound fine again. You can't drive it and if I try to give it gas it will stall. There is a humming in the engine and it smells really bad. What would make it do this?
A: Did you adjust the timing to where it was suposed to be set to????.....also what kind of smell????......sounds like you have problems in the carb.......if I had more info I will try and help...Ed
Chassis / Suspension & Steering Malfunction When turning Always
Q: I am having a really "HARD" time turning the steering wheel after a "mechanic" had replaced my power steering pump that was making noise while the car was on. He told me that he had the pump rebuilt ""TWICE"" and also purchase a pump from Nissan, and stated that it was also the wrong one. Is this normally such a pain to fix? I believe that he just isn't really familiar with it and also just trying to rip off my mother. Doesn't Nissan stand behind their parts, (returns), or do you know of a part number I can reference the pump to so maybe I can source out a pump myself??? it's a 1987 Nissan Stanza 4door (school teachers) car. engine CA20. 4 cylinder.. thanks for your time
A: I would go back and ask him if he had a preference as to which dealer you should have it repaired at as he WILL be paying the bill. *smile*......it may inspire his best efforts on your behalf. Ed
Drive Train / Driveline Making Noise When turning Not applicable
Q: There is a clicking / knocking sound when I turn my car and it's quiet when I'm driving straight.
The CV joint rubber boot is torn open. How do I fix this, do I need a whole new axle shaft or just the CV joint? Thank you.
Adly Teoh
A: Once a boot tears the life of a cv joint can be measured in hours. Your best option is to replace the entire shaft. It is cheaper and easier then trying to replace a single cv joint.
Q: WHEN I TRY TO START, IT PUTTS AND I CAN SMELL GAS.
I PUT PLUGS, PLUG WIRES, DISTR.CAP AND IT RAN FOR ONE DAY.
NOW IT WON'T START.. IT WILL TRY TO START BUT IT JUST PUTTS.
A: I had this problem on a car i was working on, more than likely it is flooded. locate the fuel pump fuse by your left leg as you sit in the drivers seat, pull the fuse, turn the key and crank untill the car starts, when it does quickly insert the fuse. Hope that works.
Fuel System Won't Start Happens sometimes When warm
Q: Intermittently, the car will not fire when attempting to start it. Sometimes it will die when driving. It acts as if it either floods out, doesn't get fuel or loses spark. After 3 wks at the Nissan Dealer shop and $1000.00 we still have the problem. Sometimes it will run fine for days. We have new rotot,cap,wires and plugs. The car always starts right up after 1/2 hour or so.
Drive Train / Driveline Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: Where do i check the manual transmission fluid level.
A: If it's the Stanza Wagon, take it to Nissan or someone familiar with the car. Other models are likely different. I check mine, but it is a miserable, miserable job. Access is via the drivers side wheelwell, and takes a 1/2 inch plug remover that you can turn with a hand wrench - most rachets are too thick for clearance. Look or feel below the starter mount. If you've got this far, with the plug removed, you stick a wire down the hole and measure the distance from the top of the opening. If my memory serves me right the level should be between 3 1/2 to 4" down from the top -- but call Nissan for the exact measurement. Best of luck -- but I'd recommend taking it to Nissan (or you're favorite mechanic who is familiar with the car) unless you've got a couple of hours and a stubborn streak like me.
Kent
Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start Happens sometimes When cold
Q: My in-laws 1984 NISSAN Stanza (purchased new) often has a dead battery after not being driven for at least 2 days.
The battery has been replaced numerous times.
This has occurred over a number of years, although not when the car was new.
After the battery has been recharged / replaced, the problem does not occur for several weeks to several months.
Sound it makes is typical "low / dead battery" sound.
Thank you for your help!
A: Sounds like you have something draining the battery when the key is off (parastatic drain). It could be numerous places; glove box light staying on, trunk light, hood light, the list goes on and on.
What you can do while wearing safety goggles, is disconnect the battery cable and connect an ampmeter or test light between battery and cable. Now pull and replace fuses one at a time (if the light goes off or the amp meter shows a notable reduction in current draw, you have found the offending circuit).
If the problem is not found amongst the fuses, you have to look elsewhere. This can be time consuming.
Note, when the test light or current meter are connected you must confirm the parastatic draw first....
And the reason the new battery was working, is that it was healthy enough to withstand the current draw... (While it was new and fresh)
any questions, email me jesse7779@hotmail.com
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