Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens sometimes Not applicable
Q: The fan for my air conditioning system's fan intermittently does not work when the car is started. When it does not work, you cannot turn it on by pushing the control knob. Sometimes, it will later just come back on as you are driving; maybe 5 - 15 minutes later. The dealer has been unable to get the condition to rep[roduce while the car is at the dealership. Any ideas what I can check?
A: The fan is supposed to run constantly when the ac is turned on. Check the compressor clutch connection or there could be an intermittent short in the switch.
A: behind right hand side of dash....in the relay center you will see a section of fuses 15 amp.20 amp etc. the next spot above that is a empty space and then above that is the fuel pump relay.
Windows / Glass Malfunction Not applicable Not applicable
Q: My left window in my 1994 Olsmobile 88 stopped working. When I actuate the window down button, I hear a click inside the door but the window does not go down. This happened last winter and I thought the window froze because it started to work again a few hours later. I am ready to pull the door cover. I have a manual with wiring diagrams but it does not show the window circuit. Any ideas will be appreciated.
A: GM designed electrical window systems with plastic pins to break in case a child should accidentally get caught in the window while it is going up.
Replacement gears and pins are available after-market.
Just remove panel, drill out rivets,replace gears and pins, and bolt or rivet window scissor back in place. Hope this helps
Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When driving Always
Q: My 1994 Delta 88 Royal won't change gears. For a while it was changing just fine but occasionally it would jerk and cutout, then it stopped doing that. Now the speedometer will not work and the gears won't change. I have replaced the speed sensor because I thought that might have been the problem, but that did not help. What do you think the problem could be?
A: replace the powertrain control module. it controls the engine, transmission, and instrment cluster.
Ignition System Malfunction When starting When cold
Q: The car starts hard when it's cold and/ or damp.
Replaced the coil pack, ignition module, wires, plugs, crank sensor, cam sensor. What next?
A: All computer cars need a MINIMUM voltage of about 11 volts for the computer to control the ignition.....
If the available voltage in the battery is below 11 volts DURING cranking, this confuses the computer and it is sometimes unsure of what - and especially when - to do the ignition controls..... Ed
Ignition System Won't Start Happens sometimes When warm
Q: Starts fine cold, after driving for 15 minutes, will sometimes cut off, and then not start. Or if you turn it off, it might not start till you wait 20 minutes.
A: I am very hesitant to respond to this one, as I have never touched (Well, worked on, at least... <8^) ) an Olds before. However, as I see that you posted nearly a month ago, thought I would at least be kind enough to tell you what my immediate thoughts would be if presented with this question by a friend or family member.
My 1st thought is ALWAYS the Main Relay when I hear your exact question. However, as I do not know Oldsmobiles, and thus thier wiring, ignition, fuel system, etc., I am unsure if this is the answer.
I can most likely give you some further hints, however, I would need further info as well.
Definate info I need is such things as: When you state the engine cuts off, does it IMMEDIATELY shutdown (Normal RPM to 0 RPM in under a second), or give a "death rattle" (where it takes one or more seconds to drop to 0 RPM)? When you state that "the engine cuts off and would not start", how exactly will it not start? Is there no power whatsoever when you turn the key, is there a clicking or any other noise when you do so, or does the engine crank but not fire up?
Also check to see if there is power to the spark plugs (via a "sparking test". The way I do this is to remove a spark plug wire, then use a rubber handled philips screwdriver and insert it where the spark plug head would go. Then touch the metal of the screwdriver to a ground somewhere on the engine. If you get a spark, you have power. If not, you don't, obviously...). This simple test cuts problem solving in half; if you have power, it is a fuel problem, if not, an electrical one(The "death rattle" question I asked above is also indicative of which type of problem it is).
If you repost with further info, I will do my best to solve your problem as I can...
Q: My 307 Olds won't start. It seems to flood out.
A local mechanic sealed the bottom of the carb and replaced the fuel pump. It worked for awhile and now rarely starts.
Otherwise it runs fine, if you can get it running. Any ideas?
This way to the live technicians