Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Not applicable Not applicable
Q: O.K., this the problem. The brakes lights don't work, third light works fine. The light bulbs on brakes are o.k. (the switch is ok too). I have power at the switch. The flashers and turn signal are o.k. as well.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I received your answer, but remember, the gorund is the same for the rest of the lights.
Like I said before, the turn signal lights, flasher and parking lights are o.k.
Sometimes when I turn the ignition on, and then the left signal with the brake pedal depressed, the right brake light works.
But if I reverse this, by putting the right signal on, the left lights don't work.
That confuses me. I have been looking for the right diagram for the stop lights.
Is it possible for you guys to send me one by email? Thank you.
A: We are working on the info transfer system but not up and running yet. A poor ground in part of the system sends the electrons "looking" for a path and can interfere with operation of other lights. Ed
Q: My 96 Cutlass 3.4l DOVC 24V 215 HP has been at the dealer for almost five weeks and they still have not found the problem. Last August I had the timing belt replaced (190,000 Kilometers)and they had to replaced the water pump as well.
After that the cooling fans would not shut off.
DDriving from my home to the dealer 5 KM the ffans timed out after I turn the engine off (10 mminutes. So far they replaced Computer module, relay, water pump and last the head gaskets.
I have talked to GM they talk to the service manager He claimed all is under control. Am I been taken for a ride ? Can anyone help?
Roger Robichaud BUS. 819 772 7060 HOME 613 623 8569 firstname.lastname@example.org
Thank you for your help any help.
A: The coolant fans only get start signals from 2 locations that I am aware of, via the computer for power to start the relay. One is the temp sensor and the other is the ac on switch. Shouldn't take 5 weeks and 2000.00. Ed
Q: My problem happens after driving my car any kind of distance, then turning it off and trying to restart within an hour or so. When I restart the car it chugs and idles roughly. It acts as though it's going to stall. The car will run roughly for a few minutes while driving then it seems to run ok.
I don't have any problem if I've let it sit all night or after letting it sit all day at work.
I've only had it stall once. After that I couldn't get it to start for about 45 min.
What's going on??
A: A will give you a list of possibles.
1. crank/cam angle sensor
2. Ign. module/coil
It is for sure an electronic sensor close to the engine, because it is heat sensitive.
It only faults when you shut engine off and temps rise. good luck.
Q: The transmission will not get out of first.
When it is supposed to shift from first, the rpms race and can't get any gear until the speed falls under first gear speed.
It also makes gurgling noises when it falls out of first. No reverse either. What next?
A: If the fluid level is good and the fluid color is not black, you need to either rebuild or replace the automatic transmission.... Ed
All Part Groups Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I need to replace my convertible top because the back glass was broken out.
A: If the top is in good condition, you can have just the rear window replaced. The top will have to be taken apart in the rear to get the window out but, you can save a lot of money only replacing the rear window. If the top is in poor shape, have both replaced at the same time.
Make sure that you do your homework and find a good trim shop. Ask to see some of their work. A properly installed convertible top should have no wrinkles and look like a hard top. If you get it back with wrinkles, it will not last.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving Always
Q: For three years, I have been having problems on and off with the alternator. The battery gauge would fall below normal voltage and continue to decrease until the car dies.
First I replaced the battery and it happened three months later. I then put in a rebuilt alternator and again it failed. I installed a new alternator and did not have any problems for over a year. Now, after a full day of normal driving, out of nowhere the battery voltage dropped after starting the car and it died again.
Is there a short somewhere that is draining the battery or killing the alternator.
Thanks, keep up the good work. This is a great website.
A: Thanks for the compliments....
As for your Cutlass, you may have a ground problem.....
Another thing to watch for is jump starting other vehicles...... it will kill your alternator... Ed
Q: What is an estimate of cost to replace the fuel pump on a 1993 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme?
A: The average flat rate cost per hour on the us is 70$ an hour. the fuel tank has to be dropped.
thebook say's it should take 1.5 hours plus the pump itself sells for about 80$ in the us so a good labor free total would be about $185.00
Q: When I brake to a stop, the car stalls. It has just started in the past week, ever since I left my lights on and my battery died. I had the car jumped and it was fine. Now it stalls. I was wondering if my computer needs to be reset. If so, I do not remember the steps I need to take to do it myself.
A: Keys in your pocket. Disconnect the negative battery post for at least 1 minute. Ed
Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction Happens sometimes Always
Q: Wont shift out of first gear somtimes when its cold. When it gets warm it will shift out of first sometimes. Already changed transmission filter and oil. Now its doin it again. Whats wrong?
A: Your shift points are partially controlled by temperature sensors on the motor that cause the tranny to shift later and harder when cold, and sooner smoother when hot.
You can have these sensors/ wiring/ hoses checked, but chances are the tranny will probably need to be rebuilt soon.
Chassis / Suspension & Steering Malfunction When driving Not applicable
Q: The steering wheel column smokes? What is wrong?
What needs to be done? What parts need to be replaced?
Is it the wiring? I know that the cruise control is shorted out.
A: Sounds like it might be the cruise control wiring in the column, but either way... you have to take the steering wheel off, etc, and find and fix it...
All wires are near other wires and coated with plastic.... you may have the begginning of a problem that will cost you the car in a fire.... Ed
Q: I hit a deer and lost the drivers' side headlight. In the process, I busted the fiberglass piece that attaches the headlight on the top, as well as underneath the light. There is nothing to attach a new light to. WHat is the name of car part I am referring to?
Electrical / Lighting Systems Dimming Happens always Always
Q: When driving, my speedometer will go blank, so will the gas gauge and odometer. Then it will come back on for awhile.
The odometer sometimes reads (error). The speedometer will sometimes read 188mph. Any clues why?
A: Replace the EPROM assembly, part number: GM 1619O197.
Q: Is it possible to put a 3.1 motor in a Cutlass Supreme that originally has a 2.8 engine?
A: Anything is possible, but the costs far outway the benefits....
The 3.1 is a different engine so not only the transmission, etc. has to be changed, so does the fuel injection systems, the computer controls, the ignition system, and on, and on .......Ed
Drive Train / Driveline Upgrade Not applicable Not applicable
Q: I was thinking to install a transmission oil cooler to my car. Its an 1989 old cutlass supreme 2.8 V6 2 door.
Now 2 lines go into the radiator. Which is the incoming line and which is outgoing (back to transmission)
I guess I need to install on the outgoing one since I want the radiator to cool first then the cooler for max cooling? Which is the return outgoing line?
All Part Groups Malfunction Not applicable Not applicable
Q: how do i get the brakes to stop seizing?
I have replaced them 10 times since i bought the car new in '89.
The third last replacement i opted for a new bi-metal bushing to prevent caliper seizings. this worked for a little over a year but then the problem occurred again. i bought new caliper, again, and this time they came equipped with the $100 bushings.
Now two years later i find that the rear calipers have been frozen for awhile and need to be replaced again!!! grrrrr!
A: the main cause is lack of use of the parking brake. make sure the caliper slides, (bushings) are well lubricated with anti-seize lubricant and the rubber seals are not damaged.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: My spedometer gives me screwy readings 20 to 25 minutes into driving in the summer and an hour to an hour and a half in the winter. Is it just my vehicle speed sensor needs replacing or is it part of a larger problem.
A: Start with the cheapest thing to fix first. It may just be loose (speed sensor, that is). It could be an actual speedometer problem in the dash. But I don't know if its digital. If its digital you can't just open it up and actually see something wrong.
All Part Groups Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: My dashboard display is all digital. Sometimes it stays on and sometimes it goes out. When it is on the only thing that works is the fuel gauge and speedometer, in the odometer it reads error. Whst causes this and how can I fix it?
A: Power interruption to the unit or the unit is defective. Ed
Then after it starts, it runs perfectly while in park. After I put it in drive or in nuetral, it stalls out. But sometimes it will drive for a while but then it seems like it miss fires or just chuggs.
Then when I stop, it dies again. I thought it might be my fuel pump but I just got that replaced last year.
When I pull one of my vacumm lines (i don't know what one it is but it have like 3 or 4 lines hooked into one), there's a check engine light as usual but i can then drive it at least. It drives really rough, but at least it drives.
I was wondering if it could be a plugged vacuum line. It can't be my tranny...could it? Thank you. My e-mail adress is email@example.com
A: Change your distributor cap and rotor. Also the spark plugs and wires. They are probably very old. Also the map sensor could be faulty have that checked.
Windows / Glass Malfunction Not applicable Not applicable
Q: My t-tops are leaking on my 87 cutlass. I've tried to find seals to replace everywhere. I ordered some, and they will not work. How do I tell if these are in fact factory t-tops or after market? And if after market, what can I do to fix this problem??
A: Good luck.. hard to find! However if your old seals are not torn, check the drain holes and use a silicon based lubricant on the seals. Worked on my old Camaro.
Q: If the car is in DRIVE and stopped (ex. at a red light) the car is struggling to keep running. If you pop it into NEUTRAL it idles ok, but if you leave it in DRIVE then it idles very rough.
A: If this is a carburetor car, adjust the mixture and idle speed...
If this is a fuel injected engine, then you need to clean the idle air control motor and channel, and re-install it.....
Then unhook the negative cable from the battery for a minute or two and then road test it..... good luck.... Ed
Q: The car runs really bad the idle is really low in park but midrange in drive. I have set idle speed to the right specs. but the car still runs very sluggish.
I bought a car from a nieghbor. He had it parked in his driveway for two years because a belt broke and that pulled the wires running to the distrubator off.
I plugged the wires back in and also replaced the cap, rotor, iginition coil, pickup coil, and module, both battery cables, and battery, and rebiult the carb., and a new fuel pump and fuel filter. I also timed the car when i got it running.
I don't know what to do next. Have any Ideas?
A: Check the timing again. And, also check that the distributor is timed correctly. Ed
Electrical / Lighting Systems Making Noise Not applicable Not applicable
Q: One day while I was driving, my radio suddenly died. Also the lighter no longer works. And if I leave the lights on and open the car door, it no longer buzzes to let me know the lights have been left on.
I checked the fuse for the stereo but it is fine.
A: Sounds like it may be the accessory relay under the horn.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Dimming When braking Always
Q: My lights dim when I brake or turn on my A/C.
A: Sounds to me like you have an alternator that can't put out enough power, or a battery that's going bad. Check them both, I think that would be the best place to start. It even might be that you just need to tighten the belts to get the alternator to spin faster.
Q: I have had this car for about three months and it has had a few problems. It doesn't seem to accelerate as well as it should for a 307 v8 engine with a four barrel carb.
I recently replaced the catalytic converter on my car because the car would only do thrity mphs floored.
So now that the problem there is fixed the acceleration doesn't seem to be all that good. It also hardly makes 80 mphs.
I have been told that this car is supposed to do 120 topped out and I personally think that this car couldn't ever do that even if it had to.
Another problem that I am having is the car has a new exaust and the end of the tail pipe is black and I am not sure why it is black. It does rub off but I thought that it was just something like maybe it is running to rich or something.
Also I am not sure what kind of gas mileage I should be getting but it only gets about 11 miles to the gallon. Is that normal?
Another question I have is what speeds should a three speed automatic transmision change gears.
Another thing that I did was turn the distributer so that it was 8 degrees before dead top center and every now and then it tends to have a kick when I turn it off and sometimes it chugs like it wants to keep running and I am not sure why it is doing this and if it has anything to do with how badly the car preforms.
I would be grateful if you could help me attempt to figure out how to fix these problems.
A: Start with a complete tune up. Plugs, distributor cap, plug wires, rotor, air filter, fuel filter,IGNITION TIMING WITH A LIGHT, etc.
If this doesnt fix it have the carb checked by a qualified technician.
Q: vails rattle. and car smokes but not running hot.and no milky oil
A: The rattle is probably oil starved lifters and the smoking is probably bad valve stem or guide seals. High oil consuption can confirm this condition. If the seals arent working then the oil is burned up and there probably is not enough for the lifters resulting in a rattle on acceleration. Worst case for the rattle is broken valve springs.
Heating / Cooling System Other Happens always Always
Q: The heating / cooling system is not working.
The system looks like it's all there, and the fuses are all good, but I can not see all the wires.
So if you can help me... I need it.
A: I need to know what the car is supposed to have... for instance is the an air conditioned car??.... What is not working??... if you move the temp slide to hot, does warm air drift from the vents????
Electrical / Lighting Systems Other Happens always Always
Q: The check engine light is on continuously.
I can't find anything wrong with the engine.
How do I reset the light?
A: Remove the battery cable to erase code. The light is on because the computer detects a problem. On the under dash ALDL Connector you can jumper terminals A&B... Then read the codes displayed by the blinking check engine light.
It will always start: 'blink pause blink blink.'
which is code 12 (standard code). Then other codes will follow. First set of blinks is tens place, second set is ones place.
Q: the radiator is obviously leaking, but its not by the radiator its somewhere in the mix of the engine. it sucks up coolant like crazy and hasnt started doing this until the other day, which happens to be the day after i took it up to get the oil changed.
A: It's probablly one of the radiator hoses leaking, if thats not it, it's a heater core hose leaking somewhere.
Ignition System Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: How to install wire set?
A: The best way to change the spark plug wires is one at a time. First seperate the new wires by length next find the number one cylinder (the front driver's side) and match the length of that wire with the same (or at least similar) length. Then remove the old wire and put the new one on making sure to route the new wire exactly the same way the old wire came off. Just repeat this process on the other cylinders.
P.S. this is also a great time to change your spark plugs also, as they have just as much to do with your ignition system and overall engine performance as the wires (use ACDelco plugs, they seem to run better and last longer in my Cutlass.)
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Not applicable Not applicable
Q: The horn on the car won't work. I disconnected the horn from the contact and placed a positive wire from the battery to the horn and it worked fine, but it's connected to the contact it doesn't work at all. I can hear a little sound through the radio. It's like I can hear me pressing on it. What could be the problem? Your help will be greatly appreciated. Thank You
A: Basically, the horn ring is a contact (switch) for the horn. I would suggest taking off the horn ring, & check the contacts to see if dirt or whatever is causing a bad contact. This is usually the problem. DB
Q: I have a 1967 cutlass supreme, the engine i.d # matches correctly to a 330 cid, but the letter on the right does not match....
the i.d # also matches a 1964 425 cid, there is plenty of room to work around in the engine compartment, and the valve covers on it are bigger than a chevy 350, or a 400 cid engine.
Then i.d number is 381917, i wanted to know for sure what size engine it is... Thank you
A: Call your local O'Reilly's machine shop with that # and they can tell you.