Q: Has not been started in a couple of months. Was runing fine ,before.No fuel to Carb.
A: If you have a mechanical fuel pump, the reed type valve may be stuck. Disconnect the fitting from the carb/filter and apply vacuum with one of those little hand-operated pumps 'til you get fuel. Then reconnect the fitting and turn over the engine. The pump will now have liquid in it, and should either prime, or loosen whatever is stuck in the valve.
Drive Train / Driveline Making Noise When driving Not applicable
Q: When I drive the car in forward or reverse there is this strange noise, like a scruffing sound coming from the rear. It's especially evident when traveling forward with the car coasting along in neutral.
The sound increases / decreases with speed. It sounds rough and loud at 5-10 mph. When I engage a gear and step on the gas it gets quieter, but comes right back when I let off the gas or push in the clutch.
It will make this noise from rolling in neutral to a complete stop, decreasing in volume as the speed decreases.
What is this noise?
A: My guess from here is a universal joint, or a possible differential problem..... Ed
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving Always
Q: When I start driving my temperature gauge goes all the way to hot, and my fuel gauge goes to full.
My engine light flashes the code #24 and my hazards don't work, and when my headlights are on, the turn signals both light up and stay lit.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens sometimes Not applicable
Q: Fusible link keeps burning up. Front turn indicator is dim and does not flash. Poor connection to the lamp. Can these be related? Is the bulb supposed to be grounded on the reflector?
A: IF THE LINK KEEPS BURNING UP CHECK YOUR WIRE FOR A BARE SPOT ALSO TRY TO LOCATE A HEADLIGHT WIRING SYSTEM FROM A SALVAGE YARD AND REPLACE WHAT IS NOT GETTING A GOOD CONNECTION IF PROBLEM STILL PERSISTS TRY TO HAVE AN ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSTIC DONE(APROX$35-75 DEPENDING ON YOUR AREA)
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: I have a problem with the charging system on my Samurai. I replaced the battery, which was not the problem. The alternator was replaced about 1 year ago. The battery is losing its charge while the ignition is off. While the ignition is off the battery light is on in the dash. Is the voltage reugulator built into the alternator, or is it separate. Or do I have a short somewhere?
A: Zener diode in the alternator is shorted.....
Now the key off reverses the current flow from the battery through the alternator to ground...... Ed
Drive Train / Driveline Other When driving When warm
Q: The jeep feels like its constantly in 4wd.. When I let off the gas it comes to a swift stop. When I pull away the vehicle seems to have to work hard to get going? Would this be normal?
John.
Q: When I take my foot off the gas, the engine backfires everytime. The car has 170,000 miles on it. The car seems to run ok. There's just that problem.
A: Backfires are all caused by either extra fuel(unburned) in the exhaust system or extra fresh air in the exhaust or both..... check for carb(or fuel injection) overrich or exhaust leaks allowing air in at low pressure deceleration...... Ed
Q: every time i start my "zuk" it idles like chitty chitty bang bang. 1st it'll go way up, then way down as soon as its warmed up. then when i hit the accel it'll eithier take of like a bat outta hell, or shut off. i've tried everything, from takin of rebuildin' the carb to tweekin' the timin' replacin' vaccume hoses etc etc etc heeeeeeeeeeeellpppp! ! !
A: Sounds to me you might have a problem starting
at the distributor to the plugs, check you plug
wire arangement.
Exhaust System Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: My 1987 zuk will not pass a calif. smog test. i have replaced ALL smog equipment made for that year, i changed the catalytic converter and had the carb rebuilt.all fuel lines and filters have been replaced. it still will not pass. whats next?
A: Which portion is it failing? (There are several gas emissions measured) The pollution control equipment only deals with unburned gasoline. If your motor is burning OIL, you will be looking at possible rings, head, etc -- basicly anywhere oil can leak into the cumbustion chamber. Run your finger inside the (cool) exhaust pipe -- if it comes out oily rather than light brown soot you will know oil is your problem.
Second possible would be to ensure vehicle is getting up to proper temperature -- If it is running too cool, it will never get hot enough to run cleanly. Suzuki Swift cars from the early 1990s have this (easily fixed) problem due to poor stock thermostat design -- may be same for your car?
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