Engine Won't Start Happens sometimes Not applicable
Q: Ive been having problems with my 99 Camry 4 cyl lately. When started (mostly when engines warm already i.e after running an errand and getting back in car), the engine will crank over fine, then RPMS will drop really low to about 200-400, then most of the time it will die. one other thing happened, in the morning when engine was cold, it struggled to crank for about 5 seconds, sound like it was suffocating, then i release the key, and it idled to 200 RPM and died. BUT that only happened ONCE. Car has 65 k and people tell me its possibly an EGR VALVE! could this possibly be the case?
A: Your EGR is the problem with the erratic idle. However, this should not be effecting the cold starting as you have described.
Having both of these problems together, without looking at the car, my first guess would be the EGR (find it,disconnect the hose, reach underneath and compress the plunger.
While it is compressed plug the hole with your finger. The plunger should not drop down. If it does,the EGR is faulty.)
My second guess would be the Mass Air Flow Sensor. In this case,you should take take it to a shop. The procedure for testing it would be too much to describe here.
Chassis / Suspension & Steering Making Noise When driving Always
Q: when i drive my toyota camry over a bump in the road a loud clunking/banging noise comes from the rear of the car. seems like it is coming from the suspension. can you help me please, the noise is driving me nuts.
Q: I just replaced the routers on the front brake system of my car, and I am still getting a grinding noise when braking, what could be the problem?
A: Are the brake pads the new metal pads? some of the newer pads are made of metal and this causes a sqeeking noise even though the pads might be brand new.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: I cannot seem to figure out on how to change the dome light of my car....i tried to pry it, but i'm afraid of breaking it...can you help?..
another question---
I recently changed the headlights --- and for some reason, the drivers side seems to be brighter than the passengers... why is that?... is it the way the bulbs were placed in there?
A: Underneath the cover, there should be clips that lock in when installed.
Try pushing a thin object,like a knife around the sides to unlatch them. and your headlights, I think it could be normal...
I've seen cars that have done the same thing. let me know what works. darril200@hotmail.com
Heating / Cooling System Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: water pump leak
A: Replace it. Once the pump itself starts leaking it's pretty much done for. This also applies if it's been making a grinding/percolating/rattling-type noise, with or without a leak. Fix this soon (it's only going to get worse over time) or risk burning out your engine by driving it with insufficient coolant.
-Elizabeth
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: wiring diagram?
A: HAYNES AUTO REPAIR MANUALS HAVE WIRING SCHEMATICS ALSO CHILTONS HAS SCHEMATICS YOU CAN PICK UP A MANUAL FROM MOST AUTO PARTS STORES OR BOOKSTORES(APROX$15-45)
Q: 89,000 miles on the car. Burning oil more than normal. Blueish smoke comes out of exhaust occasionally, usually after it's been running for a while - after it's been idling, like at a traffic light, or after I've driven a while, stopped the car, then start it up again - the smoke will come out when it starts up again. I just had the oil and filter changed 2 weeks ago. It was doing it before that. Getting ready to sell car (not because of this, but other reasons) - the black around the tailpipe is hurting my resale value.
A: Valve seals are leaking oil into the cylinders. Ed
Fuel System Won't Start Happens sometimes Not applicable
Q: earlier this week several sucessive attempts to start the motor, each time the same result - started and immediately died, could not sustain idle. Was able to start by depressing accelerator to the floor while cranking. Vacuum hoses check OK. Car as been starting/runnning fine for several days since. Was thinking erratic fuel pressure regulator or manifold pressure sensor?
A: I think it might be a bad battery. I think it's this beacuse, since it started running th ebattery recharged. Turn your lights on while the car is off and leave them on for 5 minutes see if your car will start.
Q: The car misses while driving and when coming to a stop the car will cut off.
After refiring the engine, there is a carbon-like smell. The car does not miss or sputter during cranking.
This is intermittent.... this problem can happen after disengaging the cruise control or without using the cruise control at all.
This problem may persist for several miles or it may go away and not happen for several days.
I've taken the Camry to the shop and the mechanic has run several tests, but can find nothing.
And of course, the car runs fine when the mechanic has it. Could this be the EGR value, fuel filter, etc? Thanks.
A: Try unplugging the egr valve for a few days.... could well be the problem... Ed
Q: My Camry has been overheating, Replaced the thermostat & radiator. Still overheats at speeds above 55mph. Needle will get to the hot while on the freeway, I pull over and needle shoots back down. Stop & Go traffic is fine car doesn't overheat. Is this a fan problem? Some one mentioned fan clutch? please help! Thank you!
A: Is the catalytic convertor partially plugged????...Ed
Q: The engine (2.2L EFI 4 cyls) starts and fires properly, but the RPM drops to zero quickly and it dies unless the gas pedal is pressed a little.
I changed the fuel filter so it cannot be the cause.
The engine runs fine if I either let it run for a while with my foot on the gas pedal (900RPM) or I quickly shift the gear to 'D'rive as soon as I start the engine.
This happened when my car was new (20,000 miles), but the dealer told me everything was fine back then (and it was until recently).
Now it's got 130,000 miles and it's happening everyday. How would I fix this problem? Thank you.
Q: Changed battery... hear clicking..turn key two or three times, then starts. Sometimes wont start.
I think it may be the starter. How do I change the starter??
A: Hi Lloyd,
Before you condemn the starter, check all the grounds on the engine. Besides the negative battery cable, there are at least two ground braids that run from the engine block to the body of the car. Also, check the cable connection on the starter itself. If you do all this and still you have a problem, check the starter solenoid switch. Not as expensive as a starter..and easier to get to. You can buy an auto repair manual for this vehicle at your local parts store for about $12.00. It will tell you troubleshooting tips and safety tips for whatever job you start. Good luck.
Q: My 1992 Camry V6 runs normally under 65mph. When I accelerate quickly from that speed to a higher speed by flooring the gas pedal, the car/engine fails to engage to passing gear.
The tachometer keep bouncing back and forth between 3500 and 4500 rpm and creating a jerking motion. However, the engine will respond if I accelerate gradually.
I replaced the distributor cap, all ignition wires and all 6 plugs. I saw some minor improvements from the engine, but the problem is still there.
Could it be transmission related? If so, why would it behave normally from 1st to overdrive with no hint of transmission problem?
Thanks, David
A: Kick down cable or system may need to be adjusted. Ed
Q: Two weeks ago I had new pads put on the back brakes. I have been hearing a squeaking sound every time I stop. I thought it was just because they were new, but it has lasted two weeks now. It sounds like what it did shortly before I took it in. Is this normal?
A: Depends on what your pads are made out of. In some cases semi-metallic brake pads will squeal .....
Electrical / Lighting Systems Making Noise Not applicable Not applicable
Q: i need a wire diagram for the radio
A: Go to http://www.crutchfield.com/S-ChN96k5L6My/tech/kb31.html for step-by-step instructions for determining which wire is which. Couldn't be simpler. And once you know how to hardwire it like this yourself, you'll never need to buy a wiring harness again. Make sure you have a decent multitester and a good grounding point for the negative probe.
-Elizabeth
Q: I have 92 camry v6 with 3vz-fe engine. It has valve noise. What kind of valve adjuster this engine has and how can I adjusted.
thank you
A: you have lifters that can not be adjusted. you must replace them. You should first do a manual oil presure test to asure that you have proper oil presure. If you do you must replace the lifters. forgive my spelling.
Q: The engine makes loud clicking noises. Is it the valve lifters or is it an electrical problem?
A: Is it a mechanical click, clicking or more of a "snapping" type sound?....
Clicking in time to the engine rpm is most commonly the camshaft clearance, but I am making that call with not a lot of info..... Ed
Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When driving Always
Q: When the automatic transmission is put into reverse, there is a knocking noise from the transmission and minimal movement of the vehicle. When in drive the vehicle responds normally.
A: Ouch..... Time to replace.....
There are great deals in the Wholesale Direct section of http://www.all-parts.com, especially if you find someone locally..... Ed
Q: the engine knocks. the crankshaft is hitting the balancer assembly
A: Time for a rebuild . Bearings are not supporting the crankshaft as they should . You may be better off to get another engine from a recycler and rebuild it .
Q: My car vibrates after the Machanic changed the gasket (new) whenever I stop in front of a traffic light. It's a V6 automatic transmission. The RPM vary between 700~900 whenever I stop with a "D" gear. Thanks a lot if you can helping me.
xiang chen
A: There is a vacuum leak or the mechanic does not have the fuel/air mixture set correctly. Ed
Q: Hi, I have question after changing the new gasket. The smoke(oil burn smell) coming out from the rear side of the engine(it never have this problem before)and the RPM go up to 1500. The engine had overheat before. It now has 170k. Will it last long? Thanks a lot.
xiang chen
A: The gasket is still leaking. 170K is just starting. Lots of time left. Ed
All Part Groups Malfunction When accelerating Always
Q: I have a 1989 toyota camry 2.5LV6 with 4-speed automatic transmission and 167000 miles on it.
The first gear and the second gear are not engaging properly alternately. i.e. Sometimes when I start off the first gear picks up nicely but the second gear does not accelerate and sometimes the car is slow to pick up in the 1st but is fine as soon as it engages 2nd.
Can you identify the problem and approximate cost of fixing it? It is a recent problem and earlier everything was fine.
A: Check the fluid, Make sure it is clean & doesn't smell burned or look discolored. If low add the propper amount & use the correct type.
NEVER over fill!
If it smells burned,looks dirty or discolored go have it flushed & have the bands adjusted.
If fluid is o.k. take it to the shop & have the bands adjusted.
All Part Groups Won't Start When braking When warm
Q: When i depress the brake pedal to stop or slow down, the engine cuts off and would not start. Unless, i get it jumped. Last month i replaced the battery.
A: Ok, not sure if the messages I see in the answer box when I go to post are above mine or not. If they are, ignore the person above me... <8^)
I need a little bit more info, so please repost.
Definate info I need is such things as: When you state the engine cuts off, does it IMMEDIATELY shutdown (Normal RPM to 0 RPM in under a second), or give a "death rattle" (where it takes one or more seconds to drop to 0 RPM)? When you state that "the engine cuts off and would not start", how exactly will it not start? Is there no power whatsoever when you turn the key, is there a clicking or any other noise when you do so, or does the engine crank but not fire up? I need info on these and any other small or seemingly unimportant irregularities you may have noticed in the last 3 months...
As both a mechanic and a computer/network tech (and I am sure any others of such vocations will silently chuckle to themselves and agree wholeheartedly), without seeing the actual vehicle/system, all I have to go on is what you have observed and can tell me. The greater the volume of info you can give me, the more specific I can be in return...
Q: Can feel car surging at driving speed. Doesnt do it when accelerating, also idles slightly rough in park, but wont hardly idle when in gear. just bought car has paper work where a complete major tune-up was done 8-9 months ago. Also has new timing gear etc.
A: Try disconnecting the egr .. see if that help.. if so put a vacuum limiter on it
Heating / Cooling System Other Happens always Always
Q: Any time the heater is on my windows get condinsation on them
A: You could try buying the product by rain x which you apply to the interior of your windows which prevents them from fogging up. I've seen it at Auto Zone, make sure you clean your windows thoroughly before applying though.
Also, if you can, set your car to take air from the outside and heat that air up. Specifically, I am talking about the fresh air option (on some cars, it helps stop the fog or condensation).
All Part Groups Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: My Car is running hot and making a bubbling noise like water boiling.
A: If the bubbles came in the surge prestone tank, its a blown head gasket. Dont start the engine again until you change it, change oil and prestone after the job done. If you run the engine for a time, you better have the engine rebuilt cause bearings and other parts may be damaged severely.
Interior Components Vibration When driving When cold
Q: There's a low rumble that seems to go away when the car is warm. Any ideas?
A: have your exhaust checked. Sometimes these symptoms go away once the engine warms but, a good mechanic can check for leaks or loose parts
and the ruber bushings on top of the radiator
Heating / Cooling System Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: I believe the thermostat is bad. I'm not sure of this because I can't locate where it is at.
Hoping you can tell me.
Also, where is the location of temperature switch and fan relay?
The fan won't come on when the temperature rises but both come on when I turn on the Air Conditioning.
A: Thermostat is usually at the connection of top rad hose to the engine and the fan relay is on the fan shroud or in the fuse panel under the hood. Ed
The car was driven through a foot of deep water after a heavy rain, when the car emerged, the alternator, steering belts broke. Part of the belt where chewed by the timing belt. We replaced the timing belt (with a lot of headache).
The engine cranks. The distributor rotor turns. I also removed the spark plug from the engine, while it is connected to the spark plug cable. I have the car started to see if there's a spark. There's a spark but I think it's too faint, not enough for combustion in my view. I measured the resistance of ignition coil, there's continuity, I'm suspecting the igniter (ignition module). What is the proper way of checking if either the ignition coil or igniter is faulty?
A: Here is the thing, I have yet to come across a coil that only gives out faint spark these are the types of thing that either work don't work or they are intermittent, an intermittent coil is usually caused by old age, WATER, or an upgraded igniter which is cranking out more voltage than the coil can handle. Now try checking the cap and rotor for corrosion (caused by water emersion) if present replace both if not replace the module.Last but not least if you haven't already done it replace the plugs. hope that I could help. AARON.
All Part Groups Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: how to install the timing belt and set the timing
A: EASIEST WAY WOULD BE TO STOP BY YOUR LOCAL AUTO PARTS STORE OR BOOK STORE AND GET A HAYNES OR CHILTON MANUAL FOR YOUR VEHICLE BOTH MANUALS HAVE STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTIONS WITH DIAGRAMS AND PICTURES FOR ASSISTANCE BOOKS USALLY RUN $15-35
Q: The warning gauge charge light came on, but the car ran fine.
Then a couple days later, coming home from work, the lights starting dimming then my car lost all power. It would not start up.
The next day I tried to start it up and it did start, but I only drove it briefly home, and then I shut it off.
Now it won't start again. Any ideas??
A: Sounds like the alternator quit charging for you.....
Have a complete charging system test done including load test of the battery.... Ed
Electrical / Lighting Systems Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: Ok, i'm trying to put in an aftermarket stereo in the 1986 Toyota Camry 4-door, and when i disconnected the old stereo (Technics brand) I found out that there are 2 extra wires.
There is a wire for constant power, switched power, remote turn on, ground, and two wires for all the speakers. After that, all there is is one white wire coming from the same area as the power wires, and a brownish orange and black striped wire coming from the same area as the speaker wires.
I CAN'T FIGURE OUT WHAT THE TWO EXTRA WIRES ARE FOR?!?!?! please help me.
A: Maybe your vehicle has a power antenna? One of the wires could be to that.
Q: sometimes it will and then sometimes it will not start
if you spray starter fluid in the intake it will run until you shut it off
then it may start or may not
A: I had the same problem on my 91 mazda mx-6. First, check for fuel delivery. Cheapest and easiest thing to do first is replace the fuel filter. While it is running, and if it is fuel injected, check to see if you are hearing a pulse from the injectors (ear to screwdriver handle,tip to injector). If it is carburated, check that. Check your No. 1 spark plug for spark. No spark there, check for spark to the distributer. No spark, could be your coil. It took me one week of looking and a shop a week of looking to find that the distributor was at fault. I had the exact same symptoms as you, but that doesn't mean the same solution. For some reason the distibutor would not allow the ignition coil to throw a spark, but for some reason, occasionally starting fluid would work.
Heating / Cooling System Malfunction When driving Always
Q: Whenever I turn on the air conditioner, it comes on for 1-2 seconds and then the AC light starts flashing. This indicates that the AC is not working.
I used to or had to switch the ignition off and back on while traveling above 20 mph to reactivate the AC. It won't work with the car at rest.
I have to do this from 1 to 10 times to get the AC to work. When it does come on, it cools very well. But it has become harder and harder to get it to work.
Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
A: Yikes....... sounds like a relay in the system is breaking down......
See if you can listen around under the hood while the engine is running and a helper is in the car trying to get it turned on....
Listen for the double click...... relay on and then relay clicks back off again on it's own......
If you can find and remove this relay... carefully take the plastic cover off and check for overheating evidence..... Ed
Q: When driving, the car warms up, the check engine light comes on, and the car shuts off and won't turn on until the car cools off.
What I want to know is when I take the idle air control valve off, and let that part cool off, the car - whether hot or warm - will start up again.
Is that what is wrong with it?
Or maybe something else (referring to the idle air control valve?)
Thanks.
A: This would be a new one for me, but everyday I learn....
Go to the parts store and buy a temperature reduction spray..... do not spray on body parts or they will freeze and fall off....
When the car quits.... get out and spray the valve for a bit and see if the car restarts right away...
If it restarts after being cooled, a few times, replace that part... Ed
Q: I don't know if you can help me with an answer or not, but I am hoping that you will be of some assistance. Here goes: My 80 year old mother has a 1984 Toyota Camry. She has recently had total hip replacement surgery and has been incapacitated. My 17 year old son was the one elected to start her car every couple of days and drive up and down the driveway. When I tried to start it one day, it wouldn't. My son told me that for several months now, when you think the car won't start at all, won't even attempt to turn over - doesn't make a sound... well, then you turn the key just a little farther and hold it there for about 8-10 seconds until something engages and it fires right up. This last time, it wouldn't start at all. Sounded like the battery was missing. I had someone hook up a battery charger to it, which didn't seem to help - at first. My friend started to hit the starter with a hammer or something like it, and the car started up right away again. He said that certain sounds it made indicated that the starter was going out. Our regular mechanic is no longer in business, so I was on the look. Now, that same friend (or rather, acquaintance) is offering to fix her car for me. I've heard from others that he is a good mechanic and I am in a spot that I do need to use him for this, but my question is this... I really don't think that he would cheat my mother by overcharging her and I almost feel that he wouldn't charge enough, so I need to have a guideline of somesort. How much would a starter for an '84 Toyota Camry cost and approximately what would be fair to install it? I really appreciate the fact that you have a web site and that "Ask Jeeves" was able to direct me to it. Thank you so much.
Ronda Scarfina
e-mail: ProsXCons@Yahoo.com
West Covina, California
A: STARTER for a
1984 TOYOTA CAMRY
WITH 1.0 KILOWATT STARTER (Change)
Special Order
Warranty Core $30.00
DURALAST-IMPORT 16821 LLT $72.99
OFFSET GEAR REDUCTION
TO TEST->USE CONNECTION CHART: S-4, MAXIMUM AMPS: 95
A. Have the battery connection terminals been cleened? Has the battery been load tested for capacity? Ask a Toyota Dealer for a price quote to replace the starter, ask about warranty on the repairs. An independent shop can save you some money,check them out with your local better business bureau, compare his warranty policy...
RE
0R STARTER for a
1984 TOYOTA CAMRY
WITH 1.4 KILOWATT STARTER (Change)
Special Order
Warranty Core $30.00/ $35.00
DURALAST-IMPORT 16821 LLT $72.99
OFFSET GEAR REDUCTION
TO TEST->USE CONNECTION CHART: S-4, MAXIMUM AMPS: 95
BECK/ARNLEY 187-0252 1 YR $119.99
DEPENDING ON THE LOCATION OF THE STARTER IT COULD TAKE BETWEEN 1- 3.5 HRS GOING RATE ON EAST COAST IS BETWEEN $35-50 PER HOUR
This way to the live technicians