Q: I have a 2000 Celica GT and I have made several additions to it. I want to put a TRD supercharger on it, but I can't seem to find one in their records. Do they make one? Also I have the TRD exhaust already and I was wondering what other parts I would need to accompany this new supercharger?
A: The supercharger is about $2500.00 installed.....
Why not a $750.00 nitrous system that does not wear the engine unless activated......
Unlike the supercharger that constantly runs and wears even just going to the store for milk........ Ed
Q: My car just stopped on me when I came to an intersection. There seems to be some type of fuse box connected on top of my positive battery cable. Those cables are corroded, and it was missing one fuse out of three. Do you know what that fuse box is there for? Why is it connected in conjunction with the positive battery cable? There's about 8 wires that run into it. After it stopped, I couldn't start it again. I could jump it, but when I tried to move forward it would die. Thanks for your help.
A: Sounds like someone had a stereo system installed in the car and never removed the fuses for it. I would have a mechanic clean the terminals and have a dealer make sure the box isn't neccessary and have it removed, also have the alternator checked.
Chassis / Suspension & Steering Making Noise When driving Always
Q: There is a a rolling sound that seems to come from the
middle rear of the car... I heard that Celicas commonly
have problems with rear bearings, but I don't know whether
that's it.
If it is the bearings, how serious is this, because I've
ignored it for the past 6 months - since I got the car -
and would you give me an idea of the cost to fix?
The noise sounds like something is turning or rolling
in the back... and is only heard while taking speed bumps
or similar conditions... Thank you for your help...
A: If the sound is only heard while going over obstacles,
it sounds like something moving too far and rubbing against
the body of frame.....
If turning corners or travelling in a straight line and
softly accelerating and deelerating does not change the
sound... it's probably not a bearing....Ed
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens sometimes When warm
Q: Problem with the cruise control .
After the cruise control is switched on and the speed is set, it functions well for about 10 mins then the cruise indicator blinks for 4-5 times and switches the off the ceuise control ,& will not turn back on. The cruise can be switched on again after stopping the car and turning the ignition off and back on but the speed 'set' doesn't work . The cruise functions well again for that 10 mins after the car's been parked for a few hours(when engine is cold).
Many thanks for your help
A: I have exactly the same problem. I got the "Motor" shop manual that takes you through reading the trouble codes. According to the computer, all is fine. I think that it's related to temp and humidity in the electronics. So, it could be either a bad connection that's specific to this cruise setup or even a fault in the cruise control module that is set off by cruise operation (i.e.-heat). I don't think it's a vacuum issue because, like you've found, it's dependent on temp. If it's something bizarre in the electrical system, we're screwed. Well, not really, but it makes tracing the trouble lots of fun. I would like to locate the cc module and check its condition and the conections to it.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Upgrade Not applicable Not applicable
Q: My Celica came from the factory without fog lights. I have installed aftermarket Hella models that I like a lot. Recently, I bought the origional factory fog light switch with the wire harnest from a wrecking yard. My Hella made switch has 3 connections.....+ - and ground.
The Toyota harnest has 4 wires. I need to know what the color codes mean.
They are as follows.
white with black stripe
white with green stripe
green with black stripe
solid green
once again these wires come out of the OEM dash mounted fog light switch.
Thanks.
A: The three connecting wires on the aftermarket lights usually consist of a 12volt lead,aux(lights),and ground. Basically it seems that the factory switch is just a toggle The four wire switch consist of a +lead, aux, ground for aux., And ground for the switch, If the switch has an indicator light on it. If it does not have a light it is a dual aux. switch. So you have 2 wires a + and - ground each - to the body the 2+ wires then plug into
the oem swich,if the switch has a light on it with one aux use a butt-butt connector to connect both wires to the one auxilary wire on the switch if switch does not have a light but has two aux wires connect each individually with a 12 volt to the switch and a ground from the switch to the body
Q: There's a break in the front part of exhaust system on the bottom of the car right before it turns and goes up toward the engine. (front exhaust, possibly catalyic converter)
A: IF THE BREAK IS LOCATED BEFORE THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER YOU MIGHT HAVE TO CHANGE THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD PIPE THAT BOLTS ONTO THE BLOCK DEPENDING ON HOW MUCH YOU WANT TO SPEND YOU COULD BUY IT NEW OR GET IT FROM A USED PARTS DEALER. IF YOU ARE UNABLE TO LOCATE THE HOLE TAKE THE VEHICLE TO A SHOP THAT OFFERS FREE ESTIMATES ON MUFFLER WORK AND HAVE THEM WRITE DOWN WHAT THEY SAY IT NEEDS SO YOU CAN BE SURE YOU GET THE RIGHT PARTS
All Part Groups Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: This is something that I notice when I get my car serviced. It takes 15 seconds for my "OIL" lamp to go away, after I start the car. Otherwise, it goes away in less than 10 seconds, anything that I should be worried about?
A: They put a light oil such as 10w30 or 5w30. Try the 15w40. Ed
Electrical / Lighting Systems Tuning When driving Always
Q: After decelerating to about 25 mph and with the RPM down to 1100, a gentle pressure on the accelerator causes the engine to rhythmically rev up and down with the tachometer needle simultaneously surging up and down much like a slow humping (pardon the analogy). Also, after releasing the accelerator from 60 mph followed by gently applying pressure on it, causes a pause, then a sudden power surge and acceleration. I noticed the problem after a commercial tune-up.
I suspect that fuel/air mixture control setting (?) has been tampered with or any other device that changes the timing. 2 mechanics have not solved the problem. tune-up, fuel injection and fuel line service, air, oil and fuel filters changes were done. I really could not decide whether this is an electrical or a fuel system problem or both.
thanks so much. i have learned a lot from your website. kudos!
bobgoods@hotmail.com
A: I agree with the fuel mixture call on your part.... you need a 4 gas scope to set this correctly..... Ed
Q: Vehicle had slow acceleration. It's a manual, and would quit and keel over after stopping at a red light and starting to go.
While making a right turn it would do the same.
Now it's parked and won't start at all, or turn over, but you can hear it try to start. It just won't or can't.
A: Start by checking fuel pressures ....sounds like they are low.... Ed
Q: Iv'e replaced the fuel pump,sensor switch,relay switch,distibutor,it will run for a couple of days then it will turn over but not start,if i wiggle the wires running to the fuel pump it has started once.I looked thru the wires can't find any splices.AT WITTS END-HELP!
A: Pull the fuel pump connector apart (take positive battery cable off battery first) and take a small minature flathead screwdriver approx. 1/8 of an inch flathead and bend metal connectors in towards each other to tighten the connector (close gap of connector to make tighter connection on other fuel pump "pig tail"...make sure none of the connectors are trying to back out of the plastic connector and re-connect it and that should solve your ongoing headache!
Thanks,
Dwayne
Q: no sounds just have no spark new cap,rotor,plugs, and wires new mag pick-up too
could it be the igniter? car will start and run for about 2-3 mins and will not start again after it dies after it dies. does not have spark after it dies. any advise would be apprieciated. thanx
Q: I have a new radiator and a rebuilt engine on my vehicle. I have changed the thermostat and it does not help. My vehicle goes into the red zone but does not overheat. the car rides slow and lose power. I have to turn on the air conditioner. This happens when it is warm/hot.
A: Couple of things to check. First, when the engine starts to lose power and gauge goes up, open the hood and see if the electrical fan mounted to the radiator comes on.
If not, next turn on air conditioner.
If the fan comes on with the air on, then your coolant fan switch is at fault.
If fan comes on at high temp without air cond. on, check radiator cap for correct pressure rating and correct closed-recovery system.
There is a difference in caps, so be sure to get one specifically for your car.
Q: Under Hard acceleration, the engine makes
a tick or pinging or popping kind of sound.
The Engine was just rebuilt, so i don't understand why it still does this.
It did it before it was rebuilt too. The engine also loses about 1 litre of oil when I drive it really hard for a while, like if I drive down the freeway at about 150km/h or more even 120km/h (But less so) why? why? why?
A: Exhaust leak????.... possible lifter breaking down...... oil consumption could be from whipping the oil up at high rpm into bubbles and evaporating it.... Ed
Chassis / Suspension & Steering Making Noise When accelerating Not applicable
Q: I'm not sure if this is a suspension noise, but when driving the car there is a loud popping noise, like metal banging against metal, only when you accelerate or decelerate, the engine and transmission seem fine, its a 4 cyl, 5 speed, I checked the CV Boots and they look good. this noise seems too loud to be cv joints.
I shut the engine off and with the car parked with it in 1st gear I rocked the car by hand backward and forward and did hear the same popping sound that way too, do you have any Ideas on what may be causing this noise?
Thanks a lot for your help
Mister D
A: Have your control arm bushings checked. You probably have at least one bad one.
Fuel System Won't Start When stopped Not applicable
Q: the car has been sitting for some time. i put fluids in it and a new battery. then whent to start it and it would turn over but wouldnt fire. so i dumped some gas down the carb and tried to start it again and it started this time. it ran untill the gas in the carb was gone then died again. what would be causing it to not start without dumping gas down the carb.
A: depends how long is "sitting for some time"? sounds like fuel pump diaphram,(replace fuel pump) or the accelerator pump has dried out (remove air horn and replace) may be rusted fuel tank or fuel lines (replace)
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