Q: Car died when I turned around corner. Wouldn't start again. No ignition.
A: Check your timing belt/chain. When you let off the throttle and then accelerate, the slack in the timing chain/belt will sometimes let it "slap" hard enought to break. This used to be a common problem on Toyotas.
Q: Have got a oil leak somewhere on my 89 Celica GTS, 3S-GE engine. So far we have replaced: Oil Pump Seal, Crank Seals, Cam Seals, Valve Cover Gaskets and Grommets. This has helped but there is still an oil leak that has a wide dropplet pattern on the ground and is leaking from basically the left side (passenger side) of the engine compartment. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
A: Oil leaks move down and back, so the highest up and most forward the oil is, that is the leak. Ed
Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: I can't downshift into third or fourth, but can upshift into either one.
A: It sounds like the transmission syncros are going bad. The syncros are trying to match the trans/engine to the same speed for smooth shifting. I have a 1990 GTS that does the same thing in 3rd gear.
Try revving the engine a little just before downshifting. If you can find the right RPM, the shifter may slide into place. Watch your tach during normal driving to see what speed it reads during your 'upshift'
Repairs of this type usually mean a trans rebuild.
All Part Groups Malfunction When accelerating Not applicable
Q: Vehicle accelerates slowly from the stop position.
Its an automatic and barely moves, or not moves at all, upon attempting to accelerate from the stopped position.
A: The gear adjustment bands might be to loose . It is probably a low fluid level in the transmission . Go to a parts store , tell them what kind of vehicle you have and ask for the type of transmission fluid your car needs . I am going to suggest that you need atleast a quart before you do anything else . To be safe , put in a pint . To do this , take the transmission dipstick out and carefully pour in a pint of fluid . Start the car , keep the transmission in park , set the emergency brake . Let the engine warm up to it's normal operating temperature . (One quick point , check the transmission fluid level with the engine running BEFORE adding any fluid to it .) If the transmission fluid is indeed low , add more fluid to the transmission . If the transmission fluid is alright , you have a more serious problem that only an expert can fix . On the possibility that the problem is low fluid , check the fluid at least twice a week . If the level falls quickly , there is a leak and only an expert can fix it , provided the leak is a seal . If the leak is a pan gasket , or a hose leading to or away from the radiator or an intercooler in the fluid line , you can affect repairs yourself . Yes , there is a line that leads from the transmission to the radiator and back to the transmission . Transmission fluid does get hot and does need to be cooled . There are special tubes in the radiator for this purpose .
Q: Whenever I go to start it the car starts fine. There's a grinding noise that sounds like its coming from the engine. When you turn the ignition off and take the key out, the car still sounds like someone is trying to start the car. The only way to stop it from continuing is to unhook the battery. I have my suspicions that the starter might be stuck but if anyone knows whatelse it could be, I would greatly appreciate the help.
A: It sounds like you have a bad ignition switch. The switch is either out of adjustment or worn out.
Q: 22re electronic ignition "misses" every 50 to 100 ticks on inductive pickup timing light on all ign wires.
New Cyl Head, Valves Adjusted, new NGK plugs properly gapped, new Toyota wires,cap and rotor and coil. Dist coil pickup ohms fluctuate during idle but never go to infinity(no break in wires?).Injectors flow tested off car and ultra-sonically cleaned(1 year).
Engine is Jasper with about 20,000 miles. No trouble codes appear. Car idle drops of periodically per above. Cold start injector new, time switch, however, old but passed resistance tests.
No vacuum leaks, air chamber, Throttle Body and intake Manif cleaned(1 yr). Could igniter or alternator not sending constant primary voltage be causing this slight rough idle? Thanks, Rich
A: Seems as though the distributor is in early stages of failing(?). Resistance should be pretty static in the distributor, and -very- low. Maybe try to replace w/ remanufactured one just for testing purposes.
Q: Fuel pump loud humming constantly like it is running dry.
A: Try changing the fuel filter. As it becomes full from filtering the constant flow of fuel it will build up a resistance to flow that causes the fuel pump to work harder and make more noise than normal.