Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving When warm
Q: There is no power going to the stereo or cigarrette lighter.
I was in the process of selling my kenwood stereo, so I removed the stereo by unplugging it put then a week later changed my mind about selling the stereo and reinstall the stereo my just plugging it in again.
I checked the fuses under the driver side to see if there was a short somewhere but they seem to be find.
Now I don't know where to go from there. You have any suggerstions?
A: Something has shorted the system, i suggest rechecking the fuses, if the fuses are fine it may be a loose wire to the stereo that is draining all of the power.
Q: My starter is progressively getting worse in actually turning over the engine; I repeatedly get a clicking noise.
I've seen several posts describing the starter, the ciliniod (sp?) and the tabs on connections to the ciliniod...
Are there any differences in the symptoms relative to the three parts?
thanks
glade
A: check for bad connection on the starter and the battery, check the voltage on the battery when you try to start the car, you could just have a bad battery.
Chassis / Suspension & Steering Malfunction When driving Not applicable
Q: While driving the Corolla, if I turn the wheel in either direction I can hear a muffled clanking noise. On a straight course, with out turning the wheel I do not hear the noise. The noise is more pronounced, at higher speeds, and almost non existent at very low speeds. My first impression, is the ball joints, but I cannot think of why the noise would only occur while applying pressure to either one of the wheels in a turn. I think it might be the stabilizer bar linkage, but do not know the symptoms, of bad linkage ball joints.
A: It's more than likely you CV joints. Look to see if the rubber boot is torn. Take the tire off and look at the axle that goes to your transmission from each of the front wheels. The big boots on either end of it cover the Constant Velocity joints. Are they intact? The joints allow power to be applied to the axle and transferred to the wheel while it is turned. Is it more of a clacking sound? When the grease comes out of the joint because of a cracked boot, dirt goes in and ruins the joints.
Q: My seat belt on driver side.. will not return into the casing.. it is stuck all the way out.. do i need to replace the wholl unit, or just the recoil unit???
A: The fastest and least expensive way is to replace the whole unit.... autowreckers will have one...... try the All-Parts Auto Recycler section.... Ed
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When stopped Not applicable
Q: When I was installing a new battery I accidentally touched the positive lead to the negative terminal and the negative lead to the positive terminal for a split second. Then, when I connected it properly, the alternator started smoking. Could doing the above have burned out the alternator in that split second? Or was the alternator bad?
A: The alternator is now bad..... they really do not like the old reverse current trick played on them...... Ed
Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens always Always
Q: My heater is not working in my Toyota Corolla 1993.
I have a new thernostat and radiator which function perfectly.
The is enough anti freeze in the radiator.
What could be the problem?
A: Bad fan , duct controls for air flow , bypass valve for the heater , or a clogged heater core . The heater is actually a small version of the car's radiator . When heat is requested by , you , a valve is actuated that allows heated water to enter and circulate through the heater core . If whatever cotrols that valve stops working , or the valve stops working , bye-bye warm air . The thermostat , nor the radiator should have been replaced . If the thermostat sticks open , the engine will over heat because the water does not stay in the radiator long enough to cool . A thermostat that is stuck closed is just as bad .
Drive Train / Driveline Making Noise When driving When warm
Q: I have a droning sound in the front wheels.
If the problem is a wheel bearing making the car make a droning/vibrating noise, how can you tell which side is the one needing to be changed?
When I turn corners to the right, the sound goes quieter than to the left or driving straight. Thank you.
A: Think in terms of weight transfer.
That will tell you that the wheel bearing on the right side needs replacing...... Ed
Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Not applicable Not applicable
Q: The AC system doesn't work. Fan comes on to move air, but when AC button is pushed, nothing happens, button does not light up and no feeling of reduced power while driving.
A: It could be that the freon supply is low. It could also be a power(12V) supply problem to the compressor, or the push button control panel is defective. Ed
Q: I've recently been noticing that my Toyota Corolla (F-4 Series, carburetor)has been jerking when accelerating. When I'm not pushing on the gas pedal, the car seems to be running fine. Only when I'm accelerating do I have problems. Initially I thought for sure my fuel pump was going out on me. So far I have (1) replaced the fuel filter, (2) replaced the air filter, (3) replaced the fuel pump, (4) cleaned the carbeurator, (5)and put in PSP Fuel Cleaner, but nothing seems to be doing the trick. (I also replaced my titanium spark plugs which were surprisingly in poor shape. I just put new spark plugs in 10 months ago).Anything else I should check?
thanks,
Matt Gilbert
brothergilbs@yahoo.com
A: Check the "Timing". And the quality of fuel you use. Something destroyed those plugs way too early. ED
Q: I noticed the problem after the car had been sitting in the garage for about 9 months and I started it and moved it out in the drive. It idled for about 5 minutes and began to run real rough before it stalled. I've tried numerous times to restart the car without success. The engine just cranks and cranks and occassionally attempts to start, but doesn't. I personally think it's a cracked distributor cap. Do you concur? Please advise.
Thanks in advance,
Jeff
A: I personnally think it is bad gas that ruined the spark plugs. Change both and start again. Ed
Q: The engine wants to stall when cold and during warmup (about 5 minutes) only for first start of the day.
Once warmed up engine runs fine but runs-on when turned off, after engine is at running temparature.
Q: I HAVE A 88 COROLLA, EUROPEAN SPEC, WITH A CARB. WHERE IS THE FUEL MIXTURE SCREW ON THE DAMN THING. I CANT FIND IT ANYWHERE?
I AM NOT SURE ON THE SIZE OF THE ENGINE, ALL I KNOW IS THAT IT HAS 12 VALVES, AND IT CANT BE OVER A 1.5L.
IT NOT YOUR TYPICAL CARB. EITHER. THE BUTTERFLY ACTUALLY SLIDES IN AND OUT OF THE CASING.
A:
from what you have discribed ,you have a varible venturie carb and they go bad. they are best to replace , but if you realy want to play with it you should get a toyota repair manual. you also have a tercel not a corolla
toy tech
Q: Sounds like the starter i turn the key and i hear a loud click click in the engine sounds like the starter is stuck i realy dont know where it is, i want to try to hit it and get it unstuck should it need replacement or is this sometimes normall. Wher exactly is it in this car 88 corolla dx 4dr carburator?
A: Could be the contacts in the solenoid starting to erode. The are easily replaced. The clicking could be the disc trying to hit the eroded contacts.. Replace them before the car doe not start down the road.
Q: Hi beleive this has to do with my brakes or the bearings,,, when i brake it makes like a clunkity clunk sound not grinding but like a deep click click and i feel it on the brake pedal,, it does it more when the brakes are cool and while turning,,i attempted turning without braking and i still hear it the sound but very little, when i drive the car for a while and the brakes are hot it doesnt do it as loud or very little,,a friend adv me that it could be a warped disc? uneven wear on the pad due to a bad disc,,? could you help could it be bad bearings? i think i can do the work myself at least i will attempt to what should i replace could the calipers be bad? it brakes fine exept for that strange clicking noise,, your advise would be greatly appreciated.
thank you
A: Sounds like 2 small problems adding up to 1 big problem.
#1 rotor hop, like your friend said, and
#2, anti-rattle clips either bent or non existent.
These clips are known to break, or get left off on brake jobs in some shops. Hope this helps
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When braking Always
Q: with head lights on i have no brake lights,with head lights off i have brake lights,but when i push down on brake peddle,dash lights come on and marker lights too
Q: What year of Toyota transmission would replace my worn-out standard transimssion for this 1969 Toyota? Thanks!
A: If memory serves me correctly, this is the 1200 cc engine car....
If so, I think you are limited to what came originally with the car...
Probably through to about the 1972 model.... Any large wrecking yard that uses the Hollander cross over inventory system can confirm or correct me on this for you.... Ed
Chassis / Suspension & Steering Other When turning Not applicable
Q: SUSPENSION:
1-I want to upgrade the suspension and replace the steering box with a rack and pinion steering.The suspension has got tranverse leaf spring in place of a balance rod.
2-BRAKES:
I have already replaced the drum brakes with discs and installed a vaccum booster with the master cylinder, which has remarkably improved the braking. But what happens is when suddenly apply brakes the rear wheels tend to lock first and you can imagine the result of that.
So please help me out with the modifications and the braking problem.
Thanks.
A: As far as the steering replacement, I don't think that you would want to mess with it. Without seeing exactly what it looks like now, I can only tell you that you would most likely have to replace all front end parts, possibly the whole front clip on the car. And do some major drilling, tapping and welding as well as changing the coupler on the steering shaft or possible the whole shaft.
As far as the braking problem, you should be able to fix the problem by changing out the proportioning valve. I'm not sure where it would be located. Most of them are square or rectangular and have two lines going in(the ones from the master cylinder) and either 3 or 4 going out(depends if the rear uses one line and splits at the back of the car or has two going to the back of the car). The proportioning valve controls the amount of pressure applied to the front versus the rear. Rear disc brakes don't require as much movement as drum brakes before they make contact. The master cylinder could also have something to do with it. You may need to check and see if the master cylinder you installed is designed for rear disc, if it matters at all.
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