Q: Where is the oil filter located and how hard is it to change the oil?
A: The oil filter is located on the engine block . Look on the side that is opposite of the exhaust manifold . Best way to get to it is from underneath the vehicle . Do not be directly under the filter when you remove it . After removing the filter , wipe the seal flange with a clean , lint free cloth . Oil pan will have what appears to be a nut attached to the very bottom of it . Remove this and the oil will flow out . Be sure to have a container that will hold at least 1.25 gallons . Once the oil has finished draining , clean off the hole and the plug , replace the plug . Install the new filter using the instructions on the box and add the new oil .
Q: Car is a 2000 VW Jetta. It's a 4 cylinder with an automatic. When the fuel level gets below 1/4 tank the car sometimes stalls. Temperature has no affect and it will do it while idling or moving, low speed or highway speeds. It's getting to be dangerous. Dealer has attempted to repair the problem 4 times. It goes in the 5th time this afternoon.
Thanks!
Alan
AEossojr@aol.com
A: Either your electric fuel pump is mis-positioned and begins to cavitate even w/ what would appear to be plenty of gas remaining, or your gas level sending unit is hosed. I'd bet on the latter because I've replaced a defective unit on a '96 Passat that was showing the same symptoms (by "unit" I mean check the entire electro / mechanical circuit from your gauge to the actual level sensor).
A word of warning: Make the Dealer replace that electric fuel pump, regardless of what the root cause turns out to be. VW pumps are very sensitive to the effects of running dry, it's hard on all electric fuel pumps but VW most of all. The lobes in their pumps are made of plastic and when they run dry the speed skrockets and that plastic distorts / burns. It may work for a week, or a year but it will fail on you based on the number of times you've already had it run dry on ya..... Then you will be stuck, literally......
Good Luck
Electrical / Lighting Systems Upgrade Not applicable Not applicable
Q: How do I change rear light bulbs?
A: Pop the trunk and peel back the carpet over the tail lights, you should see connectors in the rear of the light assembely, turn the connector one turn counterclockwise and slowly pull the bulb out. disconnect the connector from the bulb and plug the new one in. Installation is reverse of removal. Repeat for each bulb.
Q: I am having major problems with my 99 V6 Jetta.
It has been to the dealership 5 times concerning a vibration
noise that is heard at 20, 40 & 60 km/h around 2900 RPMs.
I have been told it was a rock in the exhaust, the exhaust
needs re-alignment, it is a piston problem which can't be
fixed and it is my fault as it has been driven while low
on oil (not a chance - I baby the car).
Still no solution, it seems to me the dealership is
screwing with me, they have no clue. Has anyone
heard of similar problems? Any advice?
A: Sounds a lot like a communication problem...they just
won't listen...
Ask them for the 1-800 number for customers that Volkswagen
has and the dealer just may get to the bottom of the problem
for you....either that or they will be told to from the
powers up above....Ed
Q: Occasionally when braking, front brakes seem to grip in a grinding irregular fashion.
I've heard that ypu have to replace roters with pads?
But why and when should you replace regularly on car?
A: Your pads are so worn out you are putting metal to metal and ruining your rotors. You don't have to replace rotors when you replace the pads, you usually just have them turned (smoothed out). In your case, you are beyond that point and probably have grooves in your rotors and need new ones. I'm sure before the grinding noise came about, you would hear a sqealing while driving but not while breaking. That is the break pad sensor riding on your rotors telling you your pads are to low.
A: Have the car put on a code scanner to access the code that caused the light to come on. Autozone does this for free and will save you money on the initial diagnosis and give you an idea of the nature of your problem when you have it repaired. After scanning codes if no code is present(sometimes the light can stay on with no code)disconnct the negative cable on the battery for 15 minutes and the light should go off.
A: DEPENDING ON HOW THE MILEAGE IS, IT COULD BE A CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE AND THROWOUT BEARING PROBLEM.
IF LOW MILEAGE, IT COULD BE A MANUFACTURERS DEFECT IN TRANSMISSION CHECK WITH LOCAL DEALER TO SEE IF YOUR VEHICLE HAS HAD A RECALL.
Q: I have a 98 Jetta Diesel and it needs the timing belt replaced. I am a moderate shade tree mechanic and would like to know if you feel this is simple enough to do or is it a highly precision process.
Thanks,
Russell
A: Make sure you have a shop manual. You will want to know how to line up the timing marks and correctly tension the belt. It is not rocket science. but if you screw it up you could do some damage.
Ignition System Malfunction When starting Not applicable
Q: The car does not start. Have replaced the starter, battery and neutral switch. Dealer tech says the shift indicator on the dash says the car is in Park when it is actually in Reverse but it at a loss where to look . This problem started after a serious accident. Ins co says this was a pre-existing condition .
A: It will be necessary to find another dealer. Also consider an independent shop (foreign) with a good rep.
Have the shop document the problem. Use this info to combat the insurance company. I'll assume it wasn't pre-existing ;)
Windows / Glass Malfunction Not applicable Not applicable
Q: My 1996 VW Jetta has a recurring problem with the automatic windows.
So far all 4 windows have stopped working. The motors were replaced over the course of 4 years.
Yesterday, the one that was replaced September of 1999 has stopped working.
Why is this happening?
VW has not accepted responsibility for this defect. Is the motor defective?
I am tired of spending money.
Can we change to Manual?
A: I would have your mechanic remove the motor and he will find that most of them are a two piece outer casing. Seperate this casing and clean the inside area espesially the brushes and comutatop bars. Reseal the two halves and try the motor again. Ed
Q: My car is making a noise that is related to rotation. It sounds like a scrapping/dragging noise (like a hung-up caliper or a rotor being machined with a brake lathe). I replaced the brand new (aftermarket) pads and re-surfaced rotors with OEM/OES equipment. The noise is somewhat reduced. I am concerned that the noise is from another source.
The car used to only make this sound when turning at elevated speeds (off-ramps and long, tight curves). The sound is less now, but heard when going straight.
The new OES brake pads also have an unusual chamfer on the wear surface. Is this the inboard or outboard pad?
The hubs rotate smoothly and easily. The CV's don't click. The tires are Goodyear HP's w/about 25-30K miles. Do you have any suggestions? (car mileage 115K)
A: That noise reminds me of the splash shield that was very slightly misplaced when I did the brakes on my 1986 Jetta. Check them out.
(this was apparently from an unregistered guest)
Inspect the wheel bearings. A tell tale sign is if the noise changes when going around a corner.
A front end shop should be able to pinpoint the cause, many give a free estimate. Then you can repair yourself, if you wish.
Q: There is this vibration sound UP FRONT when ever I am at a cirtin rpm weather I am moving or reving the engin.
Also I was wondering if I were to replace the whole exhaust system from header back what would I need? Gaskets, Gasket Rings, Bolts Ect. The only reason I want to know is I want to put on a preformance exhaust an I want to do it right, but I need to know what I need, plus I think that the vibrating sound might be a leak in the downpipe or catalytic converter, let me know what you think...
A: Depends. Impossible to determine -what- the rattle is for me without actually being -in- the car. From what it sounds like though, you either A: have rocks in the heat shield of your exhaust system, which simply requires removing the heat shield and shaking the rocks out, or B: broken motor mount. The motor mount would make a vibration throughout the good front half of the car in excess of 5000 RPM.
Fuel System Won't Start Happens sometimes Not applicable
Q: when the gas tank grts below 1/2 I have trouble getting it to start. I'm pretty sure it's one of the fuel pumps but how do I figure out which one.
A: A simple solution is to start the car and feel each of the pumps to see if they are working. Next I would discconect the power from one pump and see if the other one works.
If this doesn't help then you will have to check the pumps electrically...I wouldn't know the correct value for them though.
I would highly recommend the "Bentley" series of service manuals. They have all kinds of diagnostic procedures for this type of thing.
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always
Q: the power windows do not function from any of the inside switches. However the door key will lower and raise all of them at once as usual. I can not find the fuse location and neither can anyone else. I have found the fuse on the electrical diagram in accessories. Fuse s43. But its nowhere to be found in or around the fuse box under the drivers dash. Am I missing something? Thanks
Q: When I start my Jetta I get a really rough idle, and sometimes it stalls. Putting the car in gear only makes the idle worse. After about 15 min. of driving it seems to ride fine. I replaced the fuel filter, plugs, wires, air filter, but the problem still remains. I bought the car in Ohio and had it shipped to Alaska, will the change in altitude have anything to do with this? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Adam
A: Put 5W-30 motor oil in it; this will help with the cold weather, but it is warm up related.....
Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens always Always
Q: how much work is involved in changing a heater core
A: Depends on a couple of things . First , is the compartment where the heater core is located have an easily removed cover panel . If so , remove the screws , or what ever holds it in place , disconnect the hoses and pull the core out . Reverse this to install the new one . If not , the firewall will have to be cut open , provided the core is in a compartment next to the firewall . A repair manual for your car will give the exact location . Go to a dealer and see if the Service Manager will let you photo copy the information that you need .
Heating / Cooling System Malfunction When stopped When warm
Q: My car gets warm when I'm at stoplights for a while. When I'm on the interstate or have the heat on low, it's fine the temperature is normal.
A: When you turn the heat it overides the fan and turns it on. The vehicle might have a bad tempature sending unit. You might try replacing it and it will fix the problem. Not a big job (good luck)
Electrical / Lighting Systems Other When driving Not applicable
Q: All I'm looking for is the 3 prong adapter that connects to the front turn signal socket. No one seems to know what I'm talking about or they don't have them. My next choice is to go to a dealer.
A: Try contacing Johnsons Automotive in Statesville on Hwy 70, they specialize mostly in German imports and could have or find what you are looking for.
Q: When the car is cold, it's very hard to start. The starting problems began about two weeks ago.
It takes around 3 to 5 minutes to start, and to do so, I have to keep cranking for a minute or two. It smells gas but it finally starts.
I don't know what is happening to my car! Thanks in advance.
A: Assuming that the tune up things are okay, my first area of testing would be the temperature sensor at the upper radiator hose to engine connection.....
There are two of them, and the one you need to test is the blue one....
Check the resistance across the two terminals when the engine is over-night cold...
Should be more than 3000 OHMS....
This resistor signals the computer to feed more fuel when cold...... Ed
Q: Car will not start with the key, but if you straight wire the starter to the battery you have no problem starting up. Have already replaced the ignition switch and starter. Battery is fine.
A: Neutral safety switch????..seat belt interlock system????
Ignition System Won't Start Not applicable Not applicable
Q: The clutch is worn to the point where the car will barely move.
When trying to start the car with the key, nothing happens, but if you straight wire the starter directly to the battery it will crank with no problem.
Would the clutch worn down to this point cause this problem with the car not starting by the key?
I have already replaced the ignition switch and starter.
A: I have not come across this before but maybe...... can you bypass the clutch safety switch?????
Q: Is there a fusable link between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid? If so where is it located so I can check it to see if it is burned?
I have replaced the ignition switch and the starter and still the car won't start with the key. It has to be straight wired to crank.
Any information would be appreciated. I'm going crazy.
A: If it's an automatic transmission, there is a neutral safety switch.. If it's a manual transmission, there is a clutch safety switch..... Ed
Q: If the car goes 2 or 3 days without being started, when you do start it it idles up and down in surges sitting still out of gear.
It seems to level out once the engine gets warm.
What could be causing the surges? It's a 1.8 liter gas. Thank you.
A: The fuel mixture is set incorrectly. Also a tank of hi-test may help. Ed
Q: hello.. i have a 1990 vw jetta in which i had to replace the master cyl. @ the right rear weel cyl. but now for the life of me i cant get rid of the air in the brake system.... i have used a presure bleeding sys.did it manualy etc..... i have tried every way i know how... please advise thank you so much joe.
A: When replacing a master cyl you need to bench bleed it. it should have come with a bench bleed kit. two hoses that screw into the master cyl ports. you should also replace both rear wheel cyls. at the same time.
Drive Train / Driveline Vibration When accelerating Always
Q: Turbo diesel 5 speed. When accelarating, the car vibrates, but only in third and fourth gear. Also in 1st 2nd and 5th but not as hard.
You can see the hood going from left to right and you can feel it in the shifter.
A: Posible it might be a motor mount. There is a hydrolic mount in the front that when changed reduces vibration and engine shifting. cost about $65. also some times there is vibration dampner on the left side by the pully's, it looks like a miniture shock absorber, it might need replacing
Fuel System Malfunction When driving Not applicable
Q: The car stops delivering fuel for brief periods while driving, and then it will suddenly catch again and go.
I replaced the fuel filter and pre-pump, as well as the fuel pump relay.
The problem only occurs intermittently, it can sometimes go trouble-free for a week or two, and then it will occur again lasting from 5 minutes to several days.
What do you suggest?
A: With the car sitting and idling...... wiggle the ignition key slightly back and forth to see if this brings the problem on....
If not, I think you have a problem with a wire connection into or out of the fuse panel...
Chassis / Suspension & Steering Vibration When driving Not applicable
Q: When car gets up ot about 70 mph, it starts vibrating in rear.
Also when I make the rear suspension "bounce" up and down, I can hear a squeaking noise.
A: The vibrating is most likely wheel balance (actually a wheel out of balance).....
Have the wheels checked....
The squeek is not that unusual, as long as after bouncing the car, it stops within 2 bounces..... Ed
Q: When I slowly accelerate - not 'flooring' it, and when the motor gets to about 2200 RPM's, it just kinda dies out, and goes back to idling speed. Then it jumps back up to the motor speed it was supposed to be, which makes the whole car kinda jerk.
Also, when I'm up to speed and let completely off the gas, then give it gas again, it does the same jerking thing.
It only does this at times, sometimes worse than others. I have changed my fuel filter, and i was wondering where to look next.
A: If you have an air flow meter type fuel injection system, the problem is likely in this unit....
If you have a 'throttle position switch' car, this will be the culprit.....
There were 4 completly different systems on this year Jetta..... Ed
Q: My engine makes a noise that sounds like a sewing machine... and like a pecking noise.
It used to only occaisionally do this, but recently it has become more profound.
I know I have loose valves, but I have been told it could be a lifter.
This may not be enough information, but I would like some advice if possible. Thank you.
A: Make sure of course that your engine oil is at the proper level.....
Then let your car sit and idle for at least 2 hrs....
Leave the hood closed as you want the engine to get thoroughly warmed up... not to overheat though...
Just real warm for a few hours while running.... this disolves the "varnish" that builds up in your lifters.....
That should cure that ticking problem... Ed
Q: If I were to remove one of the plug wires,(with the engine off, of course) and checked it with an ohm meter, what reading should I get; in other words, what's optimum resistance, and what is considered too high? (I understand, of course, that an "off the scale" reading means the wire is broken internally)
A: If the wire is more than about 1000 ohms, replace it. Ed
Drive Train / Driveline Making Noise Happens always Always
Q: Gentlemen: Recently bought this second hand and when I let up on the gas abruptly it jerks a little and then acts normally. Is this the way that transmission performs normally or is the clutch on the way out. Thanks. John
Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens sometimes Not applicable
Q: When idling in the the jetta, the radiator fan does not come on.
In order for me cool the car, I have to turn on the air conditioner to play as an alternate.
Why isn't it coming on like it's supposed to, when it comes on with the air conditioner?
A: May have a blown fuse or bad temperature sensor.
All Part Groups Other Not applicable Not applicable
Q: There's a round black piece that's about the size of my fist that goes into the top of my motor. It comes off from a hose that comes from the air intake hose. I just want to know what it is so when I try to get a new one, I know what to ask for.
Q: The car loses power and sputters then dies when driven for more then 1 hour. I think it is vapor lock. My catalytic converter fell off the other day, probably unrelated. Any ideas?
Q: When driving the fuel pump becomes noticably loud with a pulsing, whirring noise. It can make the car buck while driving and if stopped for a long enough period (2-5 minutes) will cause the car to stall. If it is left for 10-20 minutes it can be started again. On warm days this is more frequent, very rarely happens on winter type days.
A: Check first to see if this is a fuel pump also in the tank model. They will burn out and the exterior one works very hard sucking fuel through the dead pump. Ed
Chassis / Suspension & Steering Malfunction When driving Always
Q: There is a growling coming from the left front tire or wheel that becomes noticeable at speeds above 35-40 MPH, that also increases in volume when I curve to the right.
The car also pulls left.
Only when curving left or when the car is allowed to drift left does the growling stop. Along with the growling, a matching vibration can always be felt through the steering wheel, and sometimes through the floorboard.
Braking will sometimes cause a severe left pull.
I cannot hear any tire noise through the open window. The front struts are new KYB's with new strut bearings at the top, and I've replaced the LF wheel bearing (the old one stayed intact when it was removed) and had it aligned.
It drove straight for a while, but still growled on RH curves, such as exit & on ramps. Within a couple of months, the left drift returned and the wheel growls constantly, since right correction is necessary to drive straight.
I've been told that the transmission might be bad causing torque steer, but the pull is the same whether accelerating or not.
I've also been told it could be the CV joints, but there is no clacking noise like I would expect from a bad CV joint and the boots are intact. The CV's have been packed and re-booted, but never replaced (223,000 miles).
The only ideas I have left are to replace the ball-joint and/or the half-shaft.
Do you have any suggestions? (Besides getting a new car :)
A: I would replace the wheel bearing on both sides and recheck the alignment. also check for a bubble in the tire/bent rim.
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