Acura Legend

1995 Acura Legend All Part Groups Won't Start When starting Always

My Acura is not starting, it will turn over and fire momentarily and then stop. Two days ago before this happened the the tachcometer and speedometer started going crazy. Are these problems related ? Any info would be helpful. Thanks, karl

Karl,
There are several things that could cause this type of problem.

First, was the check engine light on when the dash was going crazy. If so, you could have a failed cam sensor.

If not, check this: Turn the key on without trying to start the engine. Watch the check engine light. It is supposed to turn on for about 3 seconds and turn off. There is supposed to be a little click under the dash at the moment the light turns off. If the light turns off, but there is no click, then you have a bad main relay.

See if the engine will start and run longer with a bit of starting fluid. If so, then your problem is likely in the main relay or in the fuel pump.

I tried turning the key and saw the check engine light cae on for about 3 seconds and then heard the click sound you said I would hear. As far as putting in the starter fluid,where should I spray it ? Could this also be a fuel filter issues as well ? And where is the fuel pump located?

Thanks Karl

Spray the starting fluid in the air filter, following the instructions on the can. The fuel pump is inside the fuel tank, don't go there yet.

I tried the staring fluid several times and it only started momentarily, but really no change. Blue smoke is coming out the exaust like it is loaded up.

Check if there is good fuel pressure at the fuel filter. The filter is on the firewall near the center of the windshield. Open the screw on the top and see if fuel squirts out when the engine is cranked. If OK, we can eliminate the fuel pump and wiring.

If it started momentarily, the timing belt is OK, or nearly right.

Fuel is coming out through the hole, I also checked the outlet side of the fuel filter and fuel is there as well. One thig I just notice is if the ignition is left in the start position it will stay running but this is probably the starter keeping it running.

Are you able to rev the engine while the key is in start? If so, then we have an ignition switch problem.

Yes, I was able to rev the engine in the start position. So how can I check the ignition switch ?

Sounds like it is time for an ignition switch. It is only $60 from the dealer.

These have had some problems.

Well if it is I will need to invest $60.00 because I just purchased a new master relay on Sat. and it won't be here until Tues. I found this out by trying to turn over the ignition slowly and listening for 3 separate clicks. I heard the 1st and 2nd, but not the third. After removing the lower dashboard panel I was able to find the master relay and give it a quick tap. After reinstalling it it started right up. It will only start up now if I slowly turn the key on and off the get the connection to close on the relay and start the car. Hopefully this will resolve the problem. Any more ideas, or am I on thre right track ?

Sounds like you need the relay AND the switch.

where is the ignition switch located; and how do I tell if it is bad ? the new main relay did not fix the problem.

The ignition switch is on the rear of the ignition lock cylinder (where you turn your key). Locate the Black/yellow wire from the ignition switch that should have voltage in the start and run position. If the wire has voltage in the start position but not the run position, the ignition switch is faulty and needs to be replaced.

Ok i checked the black/white wire with a volt meter and it showed voltage running through it in the on position and run position even though it ran only momentarily. Now what ?

You will need to check the black/YELLOW wire. It should have voltage in the start and run position. If the wire has voltage in the start position but not the run position, the ignition switch is faulty and needs to be replaced."

I meant black/yellow same reply.

Since that part of the switch seems OK, then we will need to figure out what is missing when the car does not run. Lets check the outputs of the main relay.

The black/yellow wire out of the main relay should be hot while cranking, running and for 3 seconds after the car stalls.

Yellow/black should be hot any time the key is in run or start position.

There are four separate yellow/black wires off the master relay switch 3 off one side 1 of one of the plugs and 3 off the other plug. I checked all of them and they had power. On another note I was able to keep the car running while holding the key in the second position. However when I let go it stoped the car. This seem like an ignition problem, but based on what I checked from the previous messages it was fine. Am I overlooking something.

Check fuse number 7, 25 or 26. They should have power with key on and with key in start position. If not, then a bad ignition switch.

Problem resolved, removed ignition switch and cleaned contact points.

Thanks for the help.

Your welcome Karl,
Glad we got it fixed!

1994 Acura Legend Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving When warm 

While driving, the headlamps gets dim and eventually goes out completely. Turn the car off, wait a few minutes, turn the car back on, and the headlamps comes back on. Help.

Hello, Have you looked at the headlamp switch connector for signs of overheating?

Has the car's alternator output and battery capacity been tested?

Roger

No, A visual of the battery via the eye indicates the battery is ok, (The window shows a green eye). I have not had the alternator checked. I will check the headlamp switch connector today. Will get back to you with the results.

Please don't let the battery green eye be the only check of the battery. When you have the alternator tested ask to have the battery tested also.

Please advise,

Roger

Hello, are you working on this one or are you finished?

Please update,

Roger

1994 Acura Legend Drive Train / Driveline   

I have a 94 Legend with Automatic transmission. When I accelerate, I feel a vibration that gets worse when I go uphill, but the vibration is less noticable at highway speeds. Also, sometimes it "searches" for 4th gear, sounding like I put in the clutch (if I had one) before going to 4th gear. The fluids have been checked and are fine. Any ideas?

I wish I could tell you good news or that something simple will fix your car!


It sounds like the overdrive clutch is slipping.Although the clean fluid is an indicator of trans problems, they can still happen .
Many large transmission shops will give a free test drive and a free estimate.If you are not sure about the integrity of one shop, get a 2nd opinion at another.
There is an alternative to a rebuilt one, many autowreckers have Acura's with good trans with warranty.

Could the overdrive clutch also account for the vibration? I will likely have to drive the car for another month before I can have it fixed and am wondering what the effects of a bad overdrive clutch would have on the engine...I wouldn't want the engine or the tranny to seize or drop parts on the highway... It has been doing the vibration and strange 4th gear shift for about 2 months. Also, could I manually shift through the gears as if I had a manual shift until I get the car fixed?

The overdrive will not affect the engine, nor will parts fall off.
Manually shifting ok, and if you stay out of overdrive, the shudder should not be a problem.
Gas mileage might suck though.
If it makes you feel any better,I bought a car from a friend, with a trans that shifted so bad he refused to drive it another day.I think he was upset, when I drove it, unrepaired for 8 months. I will get around to replacing the trans, but it is a $100 car, and not a priority. I just wanted to see if I could drive it a long time!

1994 Acura Legend Electrical / Lighting Systems   

car won't start, Intermitantly when the D4 lights
in the cluster the car will start,other wise the
car has no spark. The car will run until the
D4 light goes out which is about 10 to 20 sec
Then if you crank no spark unless the D4 indicator
is lit. the other thing is the D4 doesn't lite
when that gear is selected,ign switch is a little
funny as far as getting the key out? When the light
(D4) is on the fuel pump works I didn't check the
injector pulse because it does start and run intermitantly Thanks Rodger

Have you been able to check diagnostic trouble codes?

Is the MIL (check engine light) coming when when the key is turned ON (as it normally does)? Or when the engine is running?

No the mil is not lit and I don't have the
adapter for my scanner to do honda/acura
does this car use crank and cam sensors
or just crank?

I think just a crank sensor. A good place to start.

why doesn't the Indicator light up even if I ground
the the switch terminal the others will
illuminate,

You will need to change the main relay under the left side of the dash. It supplies the power to the computers and fuel pump. It is less than $100 and less than an hour to change.

That relay is supplied by ign switch correct
I have it to the switch or now like you said
the main relay any other info would be great

The relay receives the electric from the switch and first turns on the computer and fuel pump, then the computer sends a signal to the relay which keeps the fuel pump running.

The relay is $69 part# 39400-SP0-013. It has 2 connectors on it and is located under the left side of the dash.

The ignition switch can also cause problems, but I would suspect the relay in your case. Ignition switch is part #35130-SP0-A11. $58.

are these part number factory acura numbers

yes

1994 Acura Legend Engine   

Sometimes, car won't start; ingition starts, but engine won't catch. It has also happened that the engine cuts off after driving for a mile or two. Fuel pump relay has been changed. Timing belt has been done. Up till now, now problems, car in great shape and has been regularly maintained. Mechanic says it might just be "possessed", but up till now I have not been a believer in poltergeists. 1994; 120K miles.

Has the main relay been changed, this is a major problem on these cars???

1994 Acura Legend Engine   

I had a timing belt replaced in my car a couple of months ago. The day I got it out of the shop it acted like it was overheating. I took it back to the shop and the thermostat had gone bad. I have my car for a couple of days and I keep having to add coolant fluid and finally noticed a small leak in one of the hose. Fixed that but still the same problem. Also, the temp gauge would go from normal position and float up to hot. So, I take it back to the dealership and had the fast idle replaced and they fixed a couple of other items. They ran a compression test and they found no leaks but they noticed that the coolant still was being pushed back into the overflow tank from the radiator. They couldn't figure out the problem was but they said they think it may be a BHG. Leak down test was okay and car has not actually overheated but something has to be cause some compression inside the engine that causing the coolant to go into the overflow tank. Had a compression test done and it checked out okay. The heat was blowing cold air so I had the heater core replaced but I am still have the same issue.

This could be a situation where bleeding the cooling system has not been done properly.

Set the heater for maximum heat.Remove the radiator cap. Loosen drain plug and remove drain bolt (if equipped) from engine block. Drain coolant reservoir. Fill coolant level to MAX mark with 50/50 water-coolant mixture. Loosen bleed bolt and fill radiator up to base of filler neck. Close bleed bolt when coolant flows out without bubbles. Tighten bleed bolt to 89 INCH lbs.(10 N.m). With radiator cap removed start and run engine until normal operating temperature is reached. Top off coolant if necessary.

Source is Mitchell 1 Auto Repair Data Base.

Roger

I had the system bleed a couple of days ago. I forgotten to mention that I have noticed that the cooling fans are not coming on like they should. IDK

Have the cooling fans been diagnosed? Fuses and relays would need to be checked. The coolant temperature sensor should trigger the fans. Your temp guage appears to be working so this sensor may not be the cause.

Do you see the cooling fans run at all? Do they come on with the a/c on?

Has the radiator cap been tested or replaced? Has the cooling system passed a pressure test leak free?

Roger

There has been a compression and leak down test down. The fans come one with a/c but not when the temp. gauge reads hot.

Ok, the fan motors are all right so it's time to look into a fan control problem like a defective relay or fuse.

A compression and leakdown test refer to engine cylinders condition. A cooling system pressure test tests for leaks that prevent the cooling system operating under radiator cap pressure to raise the coolant boiling point. This is why the radiator cap plays a critical roll as well.

That said the cooling fans have to work.....Are you a troubleshooter? How can I help you?

Roger

No, I am just the owner of the car and I am having a mechanic doing the work. I am just trying to make sure that he is covering all possible issues. When he first did a Diagnostic he said it was a heater core problem cause the A/C was blowing nothing but cold air but now that he has done that the car is still running hot. Could all the junk that was in the heater core clog anything? when I changed the blower motor and there was leafs and other stuff in the heater core unit.

If there is air in the cooling system the heater core is very frequently the place it gets trapped. Replacing the heater core should be done if it leaks coolant or is stopped up. If it is stopped up the junk inside it won't clog anything else unless the coolant is really filthy. Then it will start clogging the radiator core.

Leaves or debris in a blower fan cage cause balance issues that result in noise, impaired air flow output, and odor.

Does your heater work now? If so, chances are good there is no air trapped. Bleeding the cooling system is critical.

Bluntly speaking... you have spent enough money with this mechanic that the burden should be on him to fix your car. Tell him you mean business and he needs to make a complete repair that bears a satisfactory result. You bought a timing belt replacement and then his lack of attention to detail (he should have road tested the car for quality control) sent you home with an entirely new problem not even present before his efforts.

Time for a serious talk with the owner of the business in question. I believe you said it was a dealership.

Roger

Yeah it was a dealership. I took the up there again and they kept it for almost 2 weeks replaced a couple of parts (thermostat housing, O rings and a couple of other things). They sent me home stating that they cant figure out what the problems is and told me to drive the car and just see what will happen. The car still was driven the same. I have been working for someone else to try and solve the problem.

There has to be a training problem at this dealership. Do they admit that they can duplicate your concern and experience first hand the overheating condition?

Have you considered checking with the Better Business Bureau for complaints on file about this dealer? Had you thought about filing such a complaint? Have you spoken with the business owner? Is this a new car dealership?

You would surely agree that driving a car and experiencing an overheating condition can't possibly require two weeks of effort to duplicate your complaint and come up with a repair plan to remedy.

Will they ride with you while you drive until the car starts overheating? You could pull over, lift the hood and show them the cooling fans do not run when they should.

Ask them if they would prefer that your attorney train them? You won't have to be loud to be firm.

Roger

Yes, They admit that they experienced the same problems that I had. No, I haven't looked at the better business bureau but I am going too. No, I haven't filled a compliant but I am going to do that also. I have spoken to a manager cause they charged me for a part that should not have been replaced until they figured out what the problem was. So, I got the money back from that but they still got 400 dollars out of me and they didn't offer me any thing else. Just said that they or sorry and that they just couldn't figure out what the problem was and just told me to drive it. I am unsure of how long they have been open.

This is just terrible service on their part. You have legal rights and it's time to throw the penalty flag on these people. They should be able to find out why the cooling fans won't run. There are shop manuals with trouble charts to follow that address such a problem.

Does anyone else in your area specialize in foreign car repair?

Roger

May I please have your email address? I'll send you information for your personal use concerning cooling fan operation on the 1994 Acura Legend. The info should apply regardless if you have a Legend L series or whatever.

Roger

[redacted] I have a LS coupe

Message is on the way.

R

I'll be away for a couple of hours.

Roger

Can you benefit from the pages I sent by email? What else may I do for you?

Roger

Yeah, that is a big help to me. Just got news back from the mechanic and its a blown head gasket on the left side.

And how was this determined? A compression test? How convenient seeing as how it passed this test and a cylinder leak down test.

I'll leave it to you to find satisfaction with this one. "They couldn't figure out the problem was but they said they think it may be a BHG."

If you are happy with my work for you and are ready to close the question, please click on OK to finish up.

I thank you,

Roger

1993 Acura Legend Heating / Cooling System   Always

I HAD A PROBLEM WITH MY A/C COMPRESSOR RELAY AND ITS WORKS NOW.MY MECHANIC RECHARED THE SYSTEM AND THE TEMP FROM THE VENTS STAYS ABOUT 48-45 DEGREES.AFTER ALL THIS A/C PROBLEMS WITH EVAPORATOR VALVE CHANGED,EVAPORATOR,PSI SWITCH,DRYER,FAN RELAYS AS MY MECHANIC SAYS ALMOST THE ENTIRE SYSTEM I WAS HOPING THE VENT WOULD READ BETWEEN 38-42 DEGREES.LIKE IT USE TO.THE CAR IS ALL BLACK WITH TINTED WINDOWS.WHAT DO YOU THINK?

Wow!The norm for vent temp is 52-58 no matter what color the car is.I'd say you are doing fine where you're at now.38-42 degrees are temps that would be expected in refrigerators.If it was infact blowing these temps,it may have been overworking thus causing the need for all the replacements.Yes it's summer and you have a black car,but in my opinion,it sounds like your A/C is doing what a normal vehicle should do.
Good Luck,
Paul

1993 Acura Legend Heating / Cooling System  Happens always Always

I HAVE A A/C PROBLEM WERE MY EVAPORATOR,DRYER,PSI SWITCH AND A/C COMPRESSOR RELAY CHANGED.AFTER ALL THAT THE MECH BEST INSIDE TEMP IS 44-50 DEGREES IN DASH GAUGE.THE RESPONSE I GOT WAS MAYBE MOISTURE IN THE SYSTEM.MY QUESTION IS FIRST HOW DO YOU VACUUM A SYSTEM.(IS THAT WITH THE GAUGES DEVICE WITH 3 LINES ONE ON LOW SIDE,HIGH SIDE AND THE MIDDLE ONE OPEN) THATS WHAT MY MECH DID WAS NO PUMP OR DEVICE ATTACHED.SECOND QUESTION DOES THE DRYIER NEED TO BE REPLACED AGAIN AND CAN I TELL IF MOISTURE IS IN THE SYSTEM BY LOOKING AT THE DRIER.PLS HELP I LUV THIS CAR AND INVESTED A LOT OF MONEY.THANKS AGAIN

First off,the register temp is at a norm for your system.Anything lower than 45-58 degrees is meant to be blown by a refrigerator or freezer.Yes gauges as well as a vacumm pump is needed as well as a recycling machine to capture the freon.Once the system is sucked down,nitrogen can be induced if in fact moisture is present.This is not a do-it yourselfer job.Again,I would say it sounds as though the system is doing its job.
Good Luck,
Paul

ON 7/2/06 I RECEIVED A RESPONSE FROM ALL-PARTS SAYING THE TEMP SHOULD BE A LITTLE COLDER AND TRY PULLING A VACUUM TO BE SURE NO MOISTURE IS IN THE SYSTEM.BEFORE I GOT ANY REPAIRS ON THIS CAR THE TEMP WAS 38 DEGREES.ALSO THE ACURA BOOK SAYS THE VENT TEMP SHOULD BE AROUND 35-40 DEGREES AND THATS WERE MY SISTER 1994 ACURA STAYS ABOUT.I WANTED TO KNOW IF THERES ANY WAY TO TELL IF THE SYSTEM HAS MOISTURE AND THE PROCESS TO VACUUM A SYSTEM SO I WOULD KNOW IF SOMEONE DOING THE JOB CORRECTLY.THANKS

PLS RESPOND OR GIVE THE QUESTION TO ANOTHER MECHANIC.THANKS

As I stated before,a vacumm needs to be done to see if a possitive psi is being held.Nitrogen can be induced to the system to help for any moisture problems after which the system needs to be vaccumed again before charging.
Good Luck,
Paul

1993 Acura Legend Engine   

1993 Acura Legend coupe, six speed with 230 hp engine. Intermittent will not start, cranks over just fine. Took it to local garage. Told there was no signal from ECU. Replaced the ECU (rebuilt unit) and started fine for 1 day. Next day, cranks over but no start....wait 10 mins and starts ok.

Rapidly loosing confidence in this car. It is relatively low miles (for age) approx. 110K miles.

Technician said that maybe the cam shaft (or crank shaft) position sensor is bad.

My question...anyone else have similar experience. Is there a bad connector in the circuit?? Need advice.
Thanks

These cars are notorious for main relay failure, did they check this out.

Not sure why they pointed the finger at the ECU before the cam/crank sensors. Sensor failure is much more common and easier for them to check.

If the problem was a main relay failure, why would replacing the ECU get the car to start when it wouldn't previously?

You said the failure was intermittent, diagnosing & replacing the ECU would be enough time for an intermittent condition to cycle.

Do you know which signal they were referring to?

The signal being monitored was the crank cam signal. Technician got no signal at all. Replaced the ECU (after a 2 day wait). Then got a crank cam signal. Car started up right away.

1993 Acura Legend Engine   

won't crank.batt vltg.good,tapped on starter(man.trans.)

Could be a starter, clutch switch, alarm, or wiring.

Try (difficult on this car) to put a test light on the large wire at the starter, clipped to ground. If the light (or voltage) stays good while trying to start, battery cables are good. Put the test light on the little wire, if it lights bright when the key is turned to start, then you have a bad starter. If it does not light, look at the clutch switch and alarm.

any chance of a neutral safety switch and if so where is it?

On a stick shift there is no neutral safety switch. There is only a clutch switch on most models, located under the dash on the clutch pedal.

1992 Acura Legend Brake System  Happens always Always

Hello. The brakes have always been weak for the past 4 years that I've owned the car. Pushing the brake pedal as hard as I could couldn't make the tires skid and the abs kick in. I have bled the brakes 3 times with no change. Just recently during heavy braking, the pedal would suddenly lose pressure and travel an extra few inches and become exceptionally weak. Releasing and then reapplying the brakes would return the brakes to their normal (weak) strength. The master cylinder was leaking slightly from the brake booster pushrod side, so I replaced it last week. So far, this has cured the inconsistent pedal pressure, but the brakes are still just as weak as before. I installed new pads all around with freshly turned rotors, but this didn't change anything either. The booster also is air tight, as checked with the car turned off. The problem is especially bad when the car hasn't warmed up, at which point the car is almost impossible to simply keep stopped at a red light.

As I understand, the brake pedal requires excessive effort to make the car stop properly. First, try this test on the brake booster.

WIth the engine off, pump the brake pedal several times, then hold it down with normal pressure. Start the engine. The pedal should drop an inch or two.

If OK, turn the engine off. Pump the brakes 10 times. The pedal should become harder to push with each pump until the vacuum is all spent.

If OK, start engine, turn engine off, wait 2 minutes and pump the brake. It should give the same number of pumps as before until the vacuum is spent.

If any of these tests fail, you have a bad booster. Leaking master cylinders can damage a booster internally.

If all these tests pass, I would look at the proportioning valve.

1992 Acura Legend Ignition System   

my 1992 acura legend ls coupe's check engine light comes on while driving & then cuts off & won't restart until hours later(sometimes next am). changed EFI main relay,fuel filter,crank sensors & checked fuel pump. still same problem.

Sounds like you looked at all the common problems.

Does the engine shut off immediately when the check engine light comes on?

When the car will not start, does it crank?

When the car does not start, turn the key on (don't start it) and the check engine light should turn for 2-3 seconds, then turn off by itself with a click from the EFI main relay. Does it do this?

You may want to clean the computer ground on the top the engnine. It is under the black plastic cover on the passenger side of the engine.

Let me know if this helps.

the car cranks, but won't start. turned switch to on & heard click from efi relay, but chk engine light stays on. I'll try cleaning ground.

What code do you get from the computer. If the light is staying on, there should be a code which will help narrow our search.

Thanks, you are blessing to me. The problem was the computer ground that apparently wasn't tightened when mechanic repaired my heads. All is well. Thanks again!!

Guess how I knew?

I worked on a car like that one time before.

Glad its fixed!

1991 Acura Legend All Part Groups Malfunction When driving No pattern

Engine Light stays on and the D4 light on dash blinks. Was told it was the temperature coolant sensor. How do I replace it?

The engine coolant temperature sensor is easy to change. It is on the top front of the motor, near the upper radiator hose, round with 2 wires sticking out of the top of it. You need to use a 17mm wrench to turn it. You may need to move a cover to get to it properly. Make sure you refill with coolant and bleed the air out of the bleed screw on the engine near the upper radiator hose while the engine is running. (12mm)
Dale

1991 Acura Legend Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

My securty alarm won't shut off.

I have had this car about 11 months now. I never could unlock this car from the front passenger door without setting off the alarm. Now it went off by just unlocking it with the key the normal way. The only way I could get it to quit honking was to disconnect the battery. After having the battery disconnected for about 10 minutes, and reconnecting it, it sounded off again. How would I disconnect the security system until I can get this resolved so I can drive my car. I appreciate your help.

Hello, Will you please try this and let me know if it does the trick?

1. Have you turned the key toward unlock in the driver's door?

2. Please also try sitting in the driver's seat with the doors all closed. While holding the electric door lock control switch constantly in the "unlock" position/command put the key in the ignition and turn it to "ON", but do not start the car. If the alarm disarms you can let go of the door lock switch and then start the car. If that doesn't get it then try holding the door lock switch in the "lock" position while you turn the ignition to "ON".

I'll check for other tricks also. Is this a Honda factory alarm?

Please advise,

Roger

Yes, it is a factory alarm.

I have tried your suggestions you gave me and that did not work.

Thank You! I'll be able to access better info today and advise further.

Do you have keyless entry with a remote key fob? Has the battery gone dead in the remote, or is the remote not available?

Back today,

Roger

Is your Legend a two door or four door please?

Do you have access to a fax number? I will send you some diagnostic procedures that look very informative.

Do you have a 12 volt dc test light or a dc volt/ohm meter to test circuits?

Please advise,

Roger

It is a 2 door. I know someone who has the test equipment you mentioned. I don't have a fax machine. Could you send it as an email? Thanks you.

I don't know if a keyless fob came with the car originally but I don't have one. I've always used a regular key.

I'll need the email address please. I'll scan the documents to a .pdf format. Will your email address tolerate large files?

We can do this. It may be as simple as a fuse. Some are under the hood and some are inside the car. The check list has the repairman test circuit continuity and the connector terminal input integrity to the anti-theft module.

Roger

Please email it to: [redacted] . Thank you. I can handle large files and have Adobe Acrobat.

All right, I'll get on it right now.

Thanks,

Roger

Okay. I got all the information. I want you to know how much I appreciate your help on this. I will go about to solve this. Thanks a million.

You are most welcome. I realize you depend on my faithfulness to provide info you can use. I strive to do just that. I do this to help people save money and gain the upper hand whenever I can.

To your success,

Roger

1991 Acura Legend Drive Train / Driveline   

I own a 91 legend coupe. I was at a stoplight. When the light changed green I pulled off a litte hard, got about 80 ft from the light and the car was not pulling anymore, stepped on the gas and it just revved. So, I pulled over to the side of the road and put the car in park, as i did there was a grind sound like the tranny was still spinning. While sitting waiting for a tow truck the car was in parking, and I noticed it would still roll in park. I'm trying to figure out if it is the tranny, or the axle. Please help

This is likely to be a failed axle, the cv-joint portion of the axle. This is actually good news compared to more serious transmission problems. A replacement axle shaft is usually much less expensive than buying the individual cv-joint, and therefore the recommended replacement.

Have the boots inspected on the opposite side of the failure. A crack in the protective boot is a frequent cause of failure (it allows to dirt to enter which destroys the joint).

So, how do I test them to know which one is bad?

Visually you can inspect the cv joint. Note is there is rubber boot broken (it should be torn/damaged) between the transmission and wheels. Note- Remember the vehicle will roll freely until this problem is repair. Don't get under the car without taking proper safety precautions. If you need more information let me know.

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=PWL&MfrPartNumber=CV21514&PartType=945&PTSet=A

Copy and Paste the above link into your address bar to view the axle shaft (the cv joints inside the rubber boots break).

1991 Acura Legend Engine   

My temperature gauge had been fluctuating high and car idling on its own for about a week. my radiator hose then burst last week about a half mile before I got to work. I replaced the hose but then the oil light came on. I put four quarts of oil in and the light was still on. I went to a car wash to degrease the antifreeze off the components under the hood. My car then began to sound like a lawnmower and I quickly got the car home. It still sounds like that. The car is far from being low on oil. What is the problem likely to be?

Hello
Acuras have a complicted coolent system. If you have a tiny coolant leak a small amount of air will enter the cooling system replacing the coolant that leaked out. When enough air gets into the system, it will usually show up as an erratic idle because the coolant temp sensor is not submerged in coolant but sitting in an air gap. It will also cause you to hear coolant flowing in the heater core area, a "gurgling type sound". This sensor tells the computer to adjust the idle according to the coolant temp. This erratic idle problem usually goes away once it warms up due to the small amount of air. This sensor doesn’t work correctly in air causing the erratic idle. Bleed the air out, top off the coolant, find the small leak and repair it.
Try replacing the thermostat, its a fairly easy job. Just dont run it hot for long you can risk getting a blown headgasket or cracked head.
With the oil light being on I would check to see if there are any traces of antifreeze. If there is you prob have a blown headgasket or cracked head.
Heavychevy

In the event it is a blown gasket or cracked head, are there any solutions short of replacing the entire engine?

Yeah you could replace the gasket or craked head. A temperary fix that can last a while is simply remove the thermostat or take the guts out of the center of the thermostat. I dont recommend this in a cold place do to you not being able to have a good heater while driving. Taking the thermostat is a temperary fix until the parts get fixed its not a solution and if it continues you may warp the heads. But it will work.

,,

/

Just doing a follow up to check on the progress of your legend.
Heavychevy

This mechanic came by and "bled" the system out by pouring water in the radiator. He said I had an air pocket in the radiator that was causing the car to reheat.He says one of the lifters is rattling but it should get stronger and repair itself. He told me to put some miles on it. But yesterday, it sounded like the rattling got louder. And what does it mean when your car seems to hesitate around 55mph, like it is changing gears?

As I mentioned before the acuras have a complicated cooling system and may have air in it. Luckly you found a good mechanic that knew that. He is also right about the lifter. If you fear a sticking lifter, dump the oil and refill but substitute a quart of oil for Marvel Mystery Oil. Run it for 1,000 to 1,500 miles. Dump it again. If it keeps up and it worries you to much go and have the valves adjusted, never hurts. The hesitation may be due to some bad plugs after the car overheats it does some funny things, the plugs probley got to hot I would personally change. If you need anything feel free to contact. If you are satisfied please click the ok button. Have a nice day.
Heavychevy

.

As I mentioned before the acuras have a complicated cooling system and may have air in it. Luckly you found a good mechanic that knew that. He is also right about the lifter. If you fear a sticking lifter, dump the oil and refill but substitute a quart of oil for Marvel Mystery Oil. Run it for 1,000 to 1,500 miles. Dump it again. If it keeps up and it worries you to much go and have the valves adjusted, never hurts. The hesitation may be due to some bad plugs after the car overheats it does some funny things, the plugs probley got to hot I would personally change. If you need anything feel free to contact. If you are satisfied please click the ok button. Have a nice day.
Heavychevy"

1991 Acura Legend Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I have an 1991 acura legend. The other night, my dash light went out while driving home. I figured the problem might not be isolated, so I checked around the car and discovered the right tail light only, was not working as well. I looked under the hood and the 15 amp fuse was blown. I replaced this, and everything started working again, but it keeps blowing out.
I've heard headlamp switch, dimmer switch, etc., but I don't want to start replacing expensive parts if I don't have to.
Any direction?

Hi, Does water get into the right tail light lens? Is the bulb the correct one? Does the car have a trailer hitch wiring loom? Is the 15 amp fuse the correct size in amps per the fuse box legend or the Owner's manual?

Please advise,

Roger

Hi, no water gets into the lense. The fuse is the correct size. and there is no trailer hitch of any kind. The bulb is the correct bulb, I'm sure of that. For a 91, the car only has 130,000 miles on it and has not had any electrical or other problems. That's why I can't figure it out. The problem came out of nowhere. It's a very clean car.
It's worth noting that it "seems" like about the same amount of time lapses before it blows again. I mean, it will work for a short time before blowing again. I'm surprised that the dash and tail light are related. All the other light functions work. Brake, reverse, turn signal... just the right running light and dash lights.
odd, to say the least.

Many car and truck models are wired so that the dash lights fuse gets it's power from the load (output) side of a tail light fuse circuit. If the tail light fuse blows no power is sent to the dash lights fuse, or the tail light.

This is one way to get the driver's attention that there is a problem with the exterior lights.

Your car has a short somewhere in the wiring for the right tail light. It may be a pinched wire or a wire has chafed on a metal edge of a brace or bracket along the route of the wire loom.

If it were in my shop I would look at the wiring in the trunk near the tail light and also behind the tail light itself by removing the assembly for a look.

This will require taking the time to look at the routing of the loom and check anywhere the wire could rub a nick in the insulation. Your fuse lasts awhile because the short is small enough it takes time to heat up the circuit to exceed the fuse amp rating.

This one will take patience to fix.

Roger

Ok, roger, thanks for the input. At least looking for the short, means I might not have to replace all those switches. I will start looking around for where it might be. thanks again.

Let me know what I can do to help.

Roger

1990 Acura Legend Engine Making Noise When driving Always

When driving in any gear (but not in neutral), the engine makes a periodic sound (every 9-12 seconds when driving on flat, straight road), and it sounds like a rotating part is rubbing or chafing. The sound lasts for about 3 seconds, so it seeems like something is cycling on and off. After driving, there is smoke coming from around the area of the cooling system drain plug on the front of the engine block.

It seems the most obvious thing to look at,from your description,would be the cooling fan hitting the plastic shroud.I would look closely at the shroud and fan blades for signs of contact.This is not anything that is common to your specific model and there are no Service bulletins related to this issue.It's going to take some hunting with a good light.

How did you make out?

1990 Acura Legend Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

I only have brakes on one side of my car, and they are very weak.(The passenger side) I replaced the left front caliper and checked all my lines for leaks and/or crimps and found none. What would you suggest doing?

Were you losing brake fluid at anytime?

I assume the left side has no brakes and this is why you replaced the caliper. Did you throughly bleed the system?

If you are sure there is no air in the system (this may take a few times bleeding), your Master Cylinder may be bad.

how do i bleed the brakes? I dont have a bleeder machine to hook to the brakes

Copy and Paste the following link into your Address bar for instructions on bleeding the brakes. Take your time if you haven't done it before and follow intructions carefully.

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/1a/a4/7a/[redacted] d801aa47a.jsp

1990 Acura Legend Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

on my 90 legend ls i hear a noise from the left from which comes and goes every 5 seconds.it makes the noise only if the car is moving it doesn'tr make that noise when it is parked or i am stopped.i thought it would be the ABS cause it sound like the abs system when it's engaged but the mechanic said it might be from transmission.the transmission shifts just fine though.any suggestions?

Unplug the ABS fuse and test drive. Note- This will disable the ABS system so drive in a restricted area where there will be no need for an emergency stop. This will let you know if the problem is from the ABS or not, let me know.

could not find a fuse that is reserved for ABS neither under the dash or in the engine compartment so what i did was basicly disconnect the abs all together .abs light came on on the dash which meant the abs wasn't working and drove it for a while and the noise was gone.then i plugged it back in and the light went off and the noise came back.do you think that it is the abs unit or maybe it needs to be bled?when i got the car there was no fluid in the reservoir so i added but never bled it.for now i just unplugged it so i don't have to hear it but i want the abs to be working asap as well.thanks for your suggestion.

Yes it needs to be bled, but if the fluid was empty it seems you had a leak- was this repaired?

the guy who had the car either misplaced or lost the cap for the abs reservoir so he either sucked the fluid out of it or it just got lost in time.when i got it i found the cap and filled it with fluid and it was working perfect till i had to hit the brakes pretty hard then the noise started to come.how do i bleed the abs system?from the lines that comes out of abs pump or is there a secific spot for it?

1990 Acura Legend Electrical / Lighting Systems   

radio won't work the wiring seems right fuse are ok also, i need suggestion what i have to do.

Use a test light or DC voltmeter to see if you have power coming to radio with the key on. One end of test light to a known good ground and the other to the radio electrical connector, don't worry about which one, just check to see if one has power when the key is turn ON (that goes OFF when the key is turned off). If you have power but the radio still does not work, the radio is likely defective.
This assumes the radio does nothing, no lights etc.

BTW- Don't overlook other fuses, sometimes there is more than one fuse.

yes i used test light there's power...but still don't work.anyway, i compare to my other car same model i test the radio there it's working...what i did is i test the wiring from the car, there are two live wire coded red/brown other is yellow/white...on my other car which i installed the new stereo, the wiring from the same color only the red/brown wire is live, the yellow/white has no power...is thers any suggestion what i'm goin to do? thanks

1990 Acura Legend Ignition System   

1990 Acura Legend, Problem started with battery dieing with engine running. I had the alternator and battery checked both were shown to be good.I did check the alternator wiring and found some insulation cracking and fixed that problem. Now car will start sometimes and other times when turning the key I only here what sounds like a relay clicking within the dashboard on passenger side. I am not sure both problems are related but they started at about the same time

Even a tested alternator or battery could be defective you will need to recheck the wiring system espeially down to the starter and check for a bad ground.
Look at these two senarios and make your approach from there

(A)The battery or the starter is not in use while the engine is running only the alternator, if it dies while the car is running then this is definately an alternator issue and could be caused by an already dead battery (the alternator not keeping it charged) and a alternator not putting out the neccessary 12 volts or bad wiring to the ignition system.
In that case I would just change out the alternator to be sure it is not going in and out as it pleases.

(B)The alternator is not in use while attempting to start the car If the car is not starting then this is a battery or starter problem. Not enough power to turn the starter, (dead battery possibly due to a bad alternator) therefore a clicking sound of the starter relay or starter solenoid (or a loose coroded wire cable connection).
last of this the starter is left to diagnose.
If your wiring checks out good, I would start by replacing the alternator and it is suggested that you get a new battery to go with it as a bad alternator usually destroys cells in batterys from the strain put on them
After you take care of this then you can look at a starter problem if one exists
I am going away for the weekend if you follow these steps you should have a problem solved by then
I hope this helps

Thanks for the advice. One thing I forgot to mention is that I have put the battery on a charger and checked it with both a battery tester and a volt meter to make sure I was getting about 12V while not running and around 14V while runing. The problem with the starting is strange to me it will turn over and start 90% of the time but then without warning it will just click down in the dash. if I wait for a
moment and turn the key again it will start rigt up
again.

This again sounds like a battery that is time or temperature sensitive.
In most cases a battery tester or a volt meter will not copletely diagnose your battery , it is possible that you have a dead cell.
This can only be cured with a replacement battery

I think you are correct about the battery it does seem to be dropping voltage rather quickley. I was brain storming about the clicking under the dash and I relized that it does the exact same think when you try to start the car without depressing the clutch. Do you think the switch that the clutch engages when it is push in could have possible gone bad. Like I said I think the battery does have problems but the car will start 90% of the time and then it won't do anything if I try a couple more time or wait for a couple times it will start right up like nothing is wrong.

There is always a possibility and the way to check it is to try jiggling it while it is in the no start position to see if things change with the connection to the starter.
I will still lean toward the battery as the culprit

OK thanks for your help sorry about that last post I should have read it before I hit send. Thanks again for the advice. Take care.

ok

1990 Acura Legend Electrical / Lighting Systems   

When headlights are turned on, the tail lights and dash lights do not work, when parking lights turned on, all work. Turn signals okay. All fuses working under dash and under hood. Any Ideas?

You require a new headlight switch, a fairly common problem, easy to change.
Bruce

1990 Acura Legend Heating / Cooling System   

I have a 1990 Acura Legend it over heats and the main cooling fan will not start until I turn the air conditioner on at that time both fans start and drop the temperature down to normal as long as the air conditioner is on. If I turn the air conditioner off the main cooling fan again will not start until the air conditioning fan is turned on.
What is the problem.

I had a new radiator installed new coolant temperature sensor at the bottom of the rad and a new thermostat.
What could be causing this problem, use the bad water pump and how can I tell.

It's not the water pump or the engine would overheat with the a/c on.

What I believe is wrong is the cooling fans are not coming on at Low Speed when needed.

There are relays that should energize to bring the fans on low speed.

The sequence for troubleshooting this condition is:

Check Fuse #9 (10 amp) and #1 (7.5 amp) in the dash fuse box.

Check Fuse #23 (40 amp) in the under hood relay box.

Check cooling fan Resistor.

Faulty Fan Control Unit.

Faulty Fan Timer Unit.

Do you have an Owner's Manual to help identify locations for these components?

Please advise,

Roger

I do not have an owner's manual but I do have access to a library that has the manual which I'd used before. I can always get the manual again and check it out.
Fred

How would you like to proceed? Shall I wait until you've had a look at the manual? No hurry, just let me know when you need assistance.

Roger

I am going to the libary to get the manual today

Alright. I will not be near a computer tomorrow until 2:00 pm.

Roger

After checking the fuses which were not blown I decided to go the library and get the car manual, but I got busy and wasn't able to get to the library. I drove the car very slowly is because that's when the fans wouldn't kick in, but the car would not overheat. The fans would start up at low speed and then change to high speed when needed. In fact what would happen is the first fan turnout low speed if it couldn't keep up with the temperature shift change to high speed in the second band would start progress from most low speed to high speed then quit when the temperature is proper. I think that I could have done and I pulled the fuses and put them back in was to clean the contacts and make a better connection. At the present time I won't go any further than it happens again I will remove the fuses and claim it was real contact cleaner . As a result I do not have to turn the air conditioner on to make the fans start up.

Correction ro the last e mail
I have a voice recognition program that does the typing for me if have a cold it sometimes does not understand the words too well as a result I had manually corrected this letter
After checking the fuses which were not blown I decided to go the library and get the car manual, but I got busy and wasn't able to get to the library. I drove the car very slowly is because that's when the fans wouldn't kick in, but the car would not overheat. The fans would start up at low speed and then change to high speed when needed. In fact what would happen is the first fan to turn a a low speed if it couldn't keep up with the temperature it would shifte to high speed then the second fan would start up and would progress from the low low speed to high speed then quit when the temperature is proper. I think that I could have done and I pulled the fuses and put them back in was to clean the contacts and make a better connection. At the present time I won't go any further than it happens again I will remove the fuses and claim it was real contact cleaner . As a result I do not have to turn the air conditioner on to make the fans start up.
Thanks for your help
Fred Sheppard

Are you satisfied we are finished? To close the question please click on OK to finish up.

I thank you,

Roger

1989 Acura Legend Engine   

I recently had my water pump and timing belt changed out, when I got my car back and drove it for about 150 miles to my home from the dealer, it starting slowing down, I pulled to the side of the road to check it out and when I got back in the car to start it, it wouldn't crank up but was turning fast.

Hello, What are your thoughts about recourse with the shop that made the repairs you described?

Roger

Well this shop was recommended to me via another friend in this city, I don't really have a recourse with the shop. Do you think it could be my timing belt tensioner

I think it could something to do with the timing belt job. A part or workmanship or both.

If it is a shop they should have a warranty on their parts and labor. They should also help with the tow bill. You deserve to be treated fairly.

Why did you release the question for others to answer? Are you not interested in further dialog with me, or was that a woops!?

Roger

It was a error.. I thought my reply didn't sent to you. I think it was the timing belt job also, they didn't replace the timing belt tensioner which I just found out about, a few moments ago when I asked,that information wasn't volunteered to me until I asked. I choose to buy the parts myself and they wouldn't warranty the parts I bought

Workmanship should still factor here. If the tensioner needed replaced the mechanic should have brought that to your attention for your decision. How else could you have accepted responsibility?

You have rights and a chat with an attorney is not out of line.

Will you be doing the repair this time? We certainly need to find the cause of the trouble.

Roger

No I had it towed back to the same people who caused the inconviences and they claim they will be working on it this morning now, making the turn around time for my vehicle 96 hours. It took them two days just to do the water pump and timing belt. What would be the grounds I would talk to an attorney about?

My suggestion to involve an attorney was rooted in your saying you had no recourse with the mechanic because you furnished your own parts.

I had the impression that he wouldn't stand behind his workmanship.

You should have been told of any parts that were handled that could fail. Once informed you could decide to take the risk and reuse the parts identified, or replace them to have peace of mind and warranty coverage.

Be cautious what repairs you authorize now. The cause of the current trouble needs to be identified and explained to your satisfaction on who pays for what. And why.

Roger

umm okay, I feel like now they are giving me the run around with everything, they keep giving me times and aren't coming through with any of them.

Have you delt with the shop owner? Does the Better Business Bureau have information about this shop? They don't have to be a member to have a file on their business practices. There may be complaints filed, or you may want to file one.

Unnecessary delays and repeated failures to meet promised times are all on him unless authorization for repairs has been requested and denied.

Stay calm but firm in your demands. Remind them that you paid for professional repairs and they too agreed to the terms.

Tell them you rather send them business because you had a positive experience doing business with them even when something went wrong, than promise yourself to never miss an opportunity to steer others away from their business.

Roger

okay he called momentarily ago to tell me the car would be ready to drive this evening. I found an acura dealer in the area. I am going to take it to the dealer before I put it back on the road. Would I be wrong for asking them to pay for the diagnostic fee?

I seriously doubt he will pay for a diagnostic fee.

Call and see if the Acura Dealer will do a pre-roadtrip safety inspection. They might do this for free and it just might be the peace of mind you are looking for.

Roger

okay, well he should pay for something since he hasn't paid for anything thus far.

Only you can say what it will take to satisfy you with this situation.

Tell him what you expect and tell it like it is. If today's repairs are duplicate to the original repair that shop would do right if they pay the bill and the tow.

What did they find wrong? How does it now differ from the first repair effort?

I'm on your side.

Roger

he fixed it today and it is running much better than b4

Perfect. I sincerely hope he treated you right.

Are you ready to close this question? Or, is there something else I can do for you?

Roger

we can close this question. thanks

Please look at your screen for a button to close the question or "OK TO PAY MECHANIC".

I cannot close a question.

I thank you,

Roger

1988 Acura Legend Fuel System Making Noise Happens always When cold

My acura legend when it start in the morning it has a clicking noise coming from the injectors when it is cold when it warms it stops (need help)

Hello, Is performance effected? Why does this clicking cause you concern if it goes away when the engine warms up?

Are you certain the noise originates from the injectors. Is engine oil level correct? Is the correct oil viscosity in use for your climatic temperature?

Roger

1988 Acura Legend Fuel System Won't Start Happens always Always

no voltage to fuel pump. replaced main relay, fuse good.

Hello, I'll get a wiring schematic and see how best to make a suggestion.
Can you test the fuel pump relay socket (relay removed, ignition key "ON") and see if you have power available on two terminals?
The computer supplies ground to energize the relay and send power to the fuel pump. Some cars have feedback sent to the computer that oil pressure is present during cranking before the computer sends ground to the relay.
I'll see how your car gets it done. What engine do you have please?

Roger

which terminals? i dont have a voltmeter, lost the darn thing, and have no transportation to get another, plus battery running down, ( go figure ).

Terminals #30 and #87 or #87A should have power I believe. I must check the wiring diagram to be sure. The point is, there will be two.
Still need your engine size, please.
Can you borrow a 12 volt test light or meter from a friend or neighbor? Is a battery charger available?
I can't access my source data base until 1:00 p.m. CDT when their computers come on line at the public library. I'll get you the fastest answer I can.

Roger

Sorry, 2.7.is engine size. #'s on terminals are 1 thru 8. got voltage on #'s 1 and 5.by the way, know i'm not paying enough, but i do appreciate the help u r giving.

Okay, let me get to the data base for some help. I can reply to you from there.

Don't be concerned about the amount of money, I'm not. Questions are not assigned to technicians. We choose the ones we want to answer on a first come basis. It's the sight unseen challenge that motivates me to do this.

I'll get you the fastest answer I can and hope it works for you. Back soon as I can.

Roger

ok, appreciate it, will be waiting, thanks again.

You should check fuses #9 & #13 in the dash fuse panel as well as fuse #35 in the under hood fuse box. All supply power to your PGM-FI MAIN RELAY.

Power comes into the FI MAIN RELAY on the BLK-YEL wire from fuse #9. Power comes into the FI MAIN RELAY on the BLK-WHT wire from fuse #13. Power comes into the FI MAIN RELAY on one of the YEL-BLK wires from fuse #35. There is a second YEL-BLK wire at the relay that runs to Connector A, Pin #15 on the PGM Module and is a power input to the PGM.

The GRN-BLK wire at the relay comes from the PGM Module and is the Fuel Pump Control Circuit.

Power is output on the BLK-YEL wire from the relay to the Fuel Pump Motor when the PGM Module energizes the FI Main Relay.

The BLK wire at the relay is the relay ground.

Do you have access to a fax number? I could send you the schematic.

My research is done on the 1988 Acura Legend LS Sedan and I believe these circuits should be the same on the coupe.

Any help?,

Roger

sorry for making this hard, but, the fuses aren't labeled with #'s, go figure.

Okay, then what I would do is monitor the BLK-YEL wire at the relay that does not show to have power at all times with the key "ON". Once you identify it, turn the key "OFF" and then back "ON". Watch and see if you get power on the wire you are monitoring (it goes to the fuel pump) for two seconds immediately after you turn the key "ON". If you do then all your fuses are good and your fuel pump is probably bad inside the fuel tank.

Do you have an Owner's Manual that would help you with fuse identification/location? If not you'll have to inspect every fuse for condition. The data base showed a spread sheet and I did not look for a picture of the fuse boxes.

Do you have a fax number?

Roger

terminal's 1,3,5,and 7 are all yellow and black, however, #7 is too thick, and 1 and 3 are more yellow than black.# 5 seems like the right one, turned key on, and got 9 volts.turn key off, no voltage. #1 had power even with key off. i hot-wired the fuel pump earlier, ran hot and grd from battery to blk/yel and grd going to fuel pump, it started pumping like crazy.unfortunately, no fax, didnt like bell south's prices, went to cell phone.omh'ed all large fuses under hood, all good.gonna check fuses in fuse panel, now.

"The wiring diagram I have does not number the FI Main Relay terminals. Due to the years on the road your wiring color may be fading. Can you uncover the wiring harness upline from the relay and get a better presentation of color?

I can get additional data when the dealerships open tomorrow.

Did the 9 volts you detected on the wire to the pump go away after two seconds from switching the key "ON"? It should. Those two seconds are just to pressure-up the fuel rail to the injectors.

Has your battery voltage dropped to 9 volts? I wonder why your car didn't start when you had the fuel pump "hot wired"? Do you have fuel pressure? Do you have spark?

Roger"

wiring not covered with those black corrugated lines. charged batt, getting 12 volts. #1 stayed 12 volts, even w/key off. #3 only gave.45 volts when key turned on, #5, went to 12 volts with key on, stayed at 12 volts whole time had key on. didnt try to start car when i hot-wired fuel pump, only hooked it up to see if it pumped, however, did loosen relief screw on fuel filter, got gas out of it. no owners manual.no change in wire color on harness at all.

Okay, I'm going to stick to the original statement that there was no power to the fuel pump and the fuses are good and you replaced the relay.

If you monitor the power wire at the fuel pump and have voltage for the first two seconds after the key is turned "ON", that is the normal result. You won't see voltage again unless you cycle the key, or after the computer knows the engine is cranking and cylinders are firing for engine start.

When the fuel pump has run and stopped, by design or by manually wiring it, fuel pressure remains from the pump to the injectors for several hours. What you bled out of the relief screw you talked about could have been only residual pressure.

Please advise,

Roger

ROGER, u de MAN: when i had the key on earlier, then crawled in the trunk to check voltage, more than 2 seconds had gone by. therefore, no voltage, as u were saying. had a friend just now ( after i got into the trunk and hooked up my voltmeter) had her turn the key on. got voltage for 2 seconds. hooked wires back up to fuel pump, had her turn key on, heard pump work, needless to say, dang car started right up.i hope it's gonna be okay now, i hope so, was the relay after all, seems like. Guy, i owe u more than i can pay, and i hate that, but i want u to know, i greatly appreciate all the time u spent helping me with this.THANKS FOR EVERYTHING, Rick Woods

1988 Acura Legend Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always 

About a week ago, I was involved in an accident (I rear-ended a car at about 1 mph at a stop light). Since then my left turn signal doesn't work. The lights work when the flashers are turned on, but when I try to use the turn signal, the lights don't function (and inside the car, the clicking signal goes about 2x as fast as usual). I'm assuming a wire or connection somewhere is loose. Where should I check?

Start by checking the bulb and bulb holder/wiring in the area of the collision. The bulb may be blown or shorted.

thank you! it fixed both the failure to turn on and the "hyperspeed" of the signal!

1988 Acura Legend Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Dome and map lights do not work. Fuse and bulbs are good. Where would a bad connection be? OR what else would cause the problem?

Since it is the dome and map light, we can assume ut is a ground wire problem. You will require a simple test light or volt/ohm meter to test/repair. Remove the dome light lens assy, and determine where the ground wire is (usually black) Trace it back to the connection that is screwed to the tin part of the car.
You could also use the test light to determine that the fise is getting voltage at both sides of fuse. The fuse panel gets its current via a fuseable link by the battery. If it were just the dome light, I would be looking at testing the doorjamb switch and/or the headlight switch both which are in the circuit. If you require a simple wiring diagram of the circuit, pick up a copy of a Haynes Shop Manual ($12-15).You will find it invaluable in doing other repairs also.

1988 Acura Legend Brake System   

I have 1988 legend. the brakes lockup and ofcouse the car slows to a stop even when the gas pedal is pressed down. the mechanic said the abs system is the problem and needs to be completely replaced. Is there another fix, even one with out the abs system working. thanks Delbert Brady adwbrady@aol.com

Hello, Could it be that the mechanic hasn't fully diagnosed this system? Is the anti-lock brake warning light on? Do you know what codes were found? If so, may I have those codes please?

Something you might try is disconnecting the anti-lock brake controller. It is located at the left rear passenger compartment behind the rear seat.

Roger

Hi Roger
The anti-lock brake light doesn't come on
and no engine check doesn't either. That the
diagnostic problem. I will see if your suggestion works
thanks Delbert

Please let me know what happens.

Thanks,

Roger

1987 Acura Legend Engine   

hello, in my '87 acura legend the PGM-FI light will come on while the idle fluctuates (goes up and down)after a few minutes of driving and the computer under the seat will blink the red light 6 times before starting the sequence over again. car was doing this before and was told it was the ECT sensor and we replaced it. that was 3-4 months ago and now its doing it again! is it the same thing and i just got a bunk part?? also car doesnt like making too many stops in a short period of time. for example, lets say u have to go grocery shopping, pay the phone bill, grab some lunch, drop by the post office, then go to class in under an hour or so, and somewhere between paying the phone bill and going to class the car wont want to start again and will have to sit for 30min-hour before it will start.

If you are experiencing the exact same failure, you may have gotten a bad sensor or the electrical connector could be corroded/damaged as well as the wiring to the sensor.

Did you disconnect the battery when you replaced the sensor?

no we didnt disconnect the battery. should we have? did we fry the sensor by not disconnecting it? or would disconnecting the battery do a sort of "re-boot" on the computer? sorry if this is obvious, we're just not mechaniclly inclined at all. also, is the car not wanting to start after a few stops related or is that an entirely new problem?

Yes, the re-boot. I was curious if this would may have restored proper operation, and had nothing to do with sensor replacement. That cannot be the case if you didn't disconnect, so apparently you correctly replaced a bad sensor before (or temporaraly overcame a bad connection at the electrical connector.)

so what are my other options?

Unplug the sensor, does it run any differently?

1986 Acura Legend Engine Lagging When accelerating When warm 

I've had my Legend for five years now and it came in great condition. It was a hand-me-down that was kept in Malibu and Arizona and there are only 134,000 miles on it. But for the past few years I've had problems accelerating.

When I first drive the car it acts fine, but as the engine warms up it has problems shifting. This is especially apparent when I transition from one highway to another. It feels like the car never wants to get out of fourth gear. When I down-shift (it's an automatic) to third the engine revvs to about 4K RPMs and then accellerates much faster. Any suggestions?

Hello, Have you inspected the condition of all of the vacuum lines under the hood? Connections age and split allowing leaks. Some hoses will collapse. On a car 20 years old it is good to inspect the full run of each hose for cracks, wear from rubbing on something, burns, tears or such abnormalities.

You are describing the transmission downshift by wide open throttle acceleration. If vacuum is correct a downshift should occur when the engine comes under moderate load...without flooring the accelerator.

Have you checked for a bad fuse? Any electrical connections to the transmission loose or wire cut/broken? Is fluid level all right when warm?

Trying to think,

Roger

Okay, This time I'm going to release the question like you did without offerring you any new dialog to try and communicate.

Roger

Hi,
I have worked on hundreds of these engines and transmissions. This transmission is quite complex, and a lot of processes are going on inside the valve body to keep it all working smoothly. If your car shifts worse when warm, I would suggest several steps.

First, have the transmission fluid flushed with genuine Honda transmission fluid. It will at times resolve such problems.

Second, add a transmission supplement. We use LUBEGUARD HFM-ATF supplement.

If your problems are not fixed, or improved with these 2 steps, you will need to have your transmission overhauled, or replaced.

Sterlingfixer

Are there any specific hoses I should look at? Furthermore, what would damage look like? When I changed my brake hose there were two slashes, so it was easy to see--but what kind of maladies would I notice with these? Cracks? Burns?

To sterlingfixer:

Is it a good idea to flush the transmission fluid after 100,000 miles? I've heard that you either change it then or not at all.

We recommend changing the fluid every 2 years. If you are content with the way it is running, leave it alone and see how long it lasts. Or, it could not hurt to just do a fluid change with the supplement without flushing the system.