Buick LeSabre

2003 Buick LeSabre Ignition System Won't Start  

I bought this car a month ago and the security light has always flahed when the key was in the on position(before it was started)...I thought this was normal. All of the sudden the car won't start. I have ruled out all components, fuses, and circuit breakers for the starting system. I can hot wire the starter...it will turn over but will not stay running. I have come to realize that this is the PASS II security system. Can you tell me how to fix this problem or better, how to bypass this security feature. I have spent a whole weekend trying to figure out why it would not start and then come to find out it is probably this PASS II key system.
I would very much appreciate a reply please."

Hello, I recommend you have a GM Dealer, a body shop, or a company that specializes in steering column repair help you here. There is a chip in the ignition key that the theft deterent module "reads" to allow the car to start. There are 15 different key values (resistance value) for the Pass II technology. The mechanical cut of the key can be changed but the key value cannot be changed or the car won't start.

If you have tried both of your keys and it won't start, you may have a wire broken loose from the ignition lock cylinder. An open circuit means the module never reads the key value. If this is the case you will need a new ignition key and lock cylinder. The repair facility will test/find the value of your old key and then cut a new blank key with your cars system value to match the new lock cylinders' mechanical cut.

Buick warranty pays for everything (towing too) of this nature for 36 months/36,000 miles from original delivery date to anyone owning the car regardless of 2nd, 3rd owner, whatever.

your thoughts?,

Roger

I appreciate the reply. I must have clicked on the wrong year. It is actually a 1993 Buick LeSabre. I don't know if this makes any difference in your reply.

It sounds like if it is the security system I will need to take it in to get it fixed.

I just have one more question. I am not 100% sure that I have checked everything I can check myself. When I hot wire the starter it will turn it over but still will not start. Is there something...a circuit breaker, some hidden fuse, fusible link that controls the fuel and ignition both so that it will not start. I just want to exhaust all my possibilities before I take it in and spend a bunch of money.

Thanks again for helping me. It really has helped!

Brent

Okay, 1993! Pass Key II technology is the same and my information would still apply here.

Will you look at the wiring coming down through the steering column and see if you can locate the two identical small gauge WHITE wires on the column near the bottom of the dash? They are the ignition lock cylinder wires that the theft deterent module monitors for the correct key chip value.

If you locate these white wires you should find they have a black connector where you can open the circuit. Disconnect the connector and with the key in the ignition, see if you can read a resistance value on the wires that are coming out of the column. If you can, what is the value? If you cannot, you'll need a new ignition lock cylinder because there is no continuity to send data to the theft deterent module.

Have a locksmith, GM dealer, or body shop "read" your present ignition key and tell you which number of the 15 possible chips your key is. Then we can substitute a resistor in the car harness side of the Pass II connector that you disconnected and "fool" the module to allow the car to start. Each key chip (1-15) has a different resistance value. We'll match the number to a value chart to get it right.

With a resistor in the Pass II wiring connector the theft deterent is "bypassed" and you can drive the car until you choose to have repairs made.

What did you discover?

Roger

Hello, Still need help here?

Thanks,

Roger

2003 Buick LeSabre Fuel System   

fuel tank appears to have vapor lock will not take fuel

Okay there may be a problem with the filler pipe or vapor recovery system... but these are known to have trouble with the fuel level sensors resulting in accurate gauge readings. Do you know for certain the tank is not full?

Do you get a check engine light at anytime while the engine is running?

no check engine lite have had qty issues for approx month gage would go to half tank then back to full with tank empty

Sorry, should of been typed "... resulting in INACCURATE gauge readings..."

Can you slowly get fuel in the tank?

very slowly if at all

Inspect the filler neck tubes to the tank for any damage.

When you fill the tank, do you usually fill the tank right to the top?

yes we always fill to the top

Overfilling (squeezing every cent in you can) can 'flood' the charcoal canister (vapor recovery system). Owners should be warned of this, but find out the hard way.

If the filler neck is okay, check the vent solenoid. Still no engine light?

2000 Buick LeSabre Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start When starting No pattern

AFTER PARKING THE CAR THE NEXT DAY THERE IS NO POWER TO ANY THING, HEATER, RADIO, LIGHTS NOTHING, IT IS AS IF THE BATTERY WAS UNHOOKED, BUT IT'S FINE,THEN AFTER TURNING THE KEY ON AND OFF A FEW TIMES THING START WORKING AGAIN , THIS HAPPENS ABOUT 4 TIMES A YEAR, WHAT IT WRONG ?

Do the cabin (dome) lights come on during this period? What I need to determine is if components independent of the ignition switch are affected.

NO THE CABIN LIGHTS DO NOT COME ON, NOTHING WILL WORK.SOMETHING IS TURNING EVERYTHING OFF UNTIL I TURN THE KEY ON AND OFF A FEW TIMES.

1998 Buick LeSabre Electrical / Lighting Systems   Always

Interior lights stay on continuiosly with doors closed. Dash switch off. Shuts down after 10 min. Security system does not flash when triggered with keyless entry. System reactivated and int . lights come on when key is inserted. What is cure ?

Hello,

The light stays on because you have a defective switch, RFA module, or BCM problem. While this sounds complicated, most of the testing involves unhooking components and seeing if the lights go out. This must be done within ten minutes of activating the lights. The reason for this (and for why the lights turn off) is the BCM turns the lights off to prevent the battery from discharging. You can try unhooking the door handle switches (one at a time) and seeing if the lights go out. If they do replace the switch. The test is the same for the RFA module (unplug connector), lights out replace RFA module.

By 'security system does not flash when triggered with keyless entry', do you mean headlights flash and horn chirp? If yes, did they before? I only ask this because they can be programmed not to do these things. This is to avoid any confusion that could be caused if you bought the car with these features turned off.

Thanks for the prompt reply. Where is this 'RFA" module and the "PCM' unit? This problem occurred after a mechanic worked on the car and had disconnected the battery. Could have that had an effect on this sytem? Thank you in advance for your prompt reply.

Drop me an e-mail and I'll send you some information
[redacted]
please put lesabre in subject line.

1998 Buick LeSabre Engine Stalling When driving No pattern

It just happened once

What happened once?

Roger

Please restate your question so we may help.

Thanks,

Roger

Hello, are you working on this one or are you finished?

Please update,

Roger

1998 Buick LeSabre Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I was driving down the road and the car just died, motor quit. I had it towed home. Tryed to start it and it won't turn over no click of nothing died no power to the motor. I have all lights and horn etc.
But nothing to the motor. I changed the battery checked the ground to the block. I checked engine for lock up but it turned ok. I rented a obe tester for code it always comes back link error. thanks

Hello, Have you checked the fuses under the hood in the fuse/relay box? Do all have power?

It would be good to test the output of each of the switched hot feeds at the ignition switch.

A link error message on an OBD II code reader says/means that the computer is not getting power. If the key is on and the message repeats there is no power getting to the computer.

This, however, would not prevent the starter from working if only the computer had failed....seems like a whole circuit of power distribution is down.

Roger

Hi Roger
I checked all the fuses on the firewall and all the colored ones are hot. Do I have to pull the large gray ones on the bottom, they look like a pain to pull?

Thanks, John

Gray ones? Do you mean relays?? Don't pull them yet. Let me get a power distribution wiring diagram and see where it takes us.

Roger

Wow! Six pages of Power Distribution to send you.

What is your email address please? I'll send them along.

Roger

I took the cover off the fuses on the firewall is that the fuse relay box?

email is [redacted]


Thanks, Roger

Yes, those Maxi-Fuses are high amp rated and serve as what is referred to as fusible links.

I'll get the power distribution on the way to you. I'm suggesting the switched hot output circuits leaving the ignition switch be checked for failure.

Roger

Sorry Roger, but I can'nt make heads or tails out of the power distribution sheets. Need more help. John

Diagram 4 0f 6 shows a switched hot feed "J" leaving the ignition electrical switch.

Follow "J" to diagram 6 of 6 and track it to all of the fuses that are powered by this wire when the key is on. Do all of these identified fuses have power when the key is on?

We are looking for what power may have failed to cause the engine to shut down. The identified fuses are critical to the running of the engine.

Roger

Hello Roger,
I think I have traced the problem to the ignition switch or ignition relay. I put a test light on the ignition coil with the key on and there is no power. What do you think?

There is strong possibility that there is an ignition switch problem.

Early in this dialog I suggested:

"It would be good to test the output of each of the switched hot feeds at the ignition switch."

The power distribution charts show the switched hot feeds at the ignition switch. Have you checked them? Switched hot wires are Pink on GM vehicles.

Roger

checked the switch hot feeds under the hood. I have no power to them. I have pulled the
the steering wheel but I can't figure out how to get the plastic cover off that is under the steering wheel, has something to do with the air bag. thanks

The ignition switch is mechanically operated by the ignition key lock cylinder.

The ignition electrical switch is mounted on top of the steering column case a few inches past (toward the floor) the bracket that bolts the steering column to the dash.

You won't need to take the steering wheel or air bag off. You will want to lower the column. Be sure to watch for the shift indicator cable attachment to the column. It must be disconnected from the column or the indicator will break.

Roger

Well I got the steering column off, had to take the dash apart to get it down, no easy task. I wonder if it was worth it. My problem now is how does the switch come apart I got it off the column but all the wires are soldered on and the wires all go to a pigtail to a bunch of other wires. Im confused as to how the switch comes a part or off to put on a new switch.

Look in the center of the connector at the wiring harness end of the pig tail. There is a bolt that holds all together. Unbolt the connector to seperate.

Once the connector is seperated the flat turn signal and wiper switch connectors will slide off of the ignition switch connector assembly if you will lift each thin connector gently in the center of it's span with a flat blade screwdriver to disengage a lock tab. Then slide toward you when viewed looking at the terminal side of the assembly.

They will only slide off one way and upon reassembly to the new ignition switch connector will only slide onto their respective sides.

The switch itself is bolted to the steering column.

Roger

Well Roger we did it. I had my doubts, I just about gave up and was going to take it to a mechanic, but after taking half the dash apart (Buick could have made it easier with a little panel at the column, but no luck.) I dropped the steering column and there was the switch. I replaced it and turned the switch( I had my doubts) varoommmmm, I was so happy saved a bundle. Thanks so much for all your knowledge. John

Great job! Thank you for staying with me.

To accept my answer so that All Parts will pay me please close the question or click on the OK TO PAY MECHANIC button.

Many thanks,

Roger

1998 Buick LeSabre Ignition System   

all the dash lights work. starter works when you jump it, but security light flashing on dash, car starts but shuts down as soon as the jump cable is removed? think some how we activated the security feature in the car? all we have is a red button on the key chain and that just turns the horn on when pushed? lost owners manual so we can't look it up any ideas on how to disable security?

First clean the key and re-insert. Turn the key ON (just to the point where the dash lights come on but NOT engine cranking). Now wait about ten minutes, observing the security light. The security light should turn off in about ten minutes. Use the aid of a clock for this step because after about five minutes it feels like it's been half an hour. Turn the key Off for a few seconds, then the engine should start.

Note-- It is the act of the security light turning off that is required, ten minutes is usually what it takes.

Let me know if this works.

the information put us in the right area! It was a wire inside the ignition that was part of the security system that had come off. i won't forget this bit of information in the future . Thank for the info and if i need anymore help you will be the first to know. Thanks again Chris Max

I didn't realize the 1998 Lesabre still had the wires attached to the switch (most GM's, I had thought all, phased out this switch by then). Over time these wires would break at the switch causing a no-start due to the fuel injectors and starter being disabled by the theft deterrent system. I have never experience repeat failure, although it's certainly possible.

These systems work with a resistor pellet in the ignition key. When the key is inserted the lock cylinder sends the resistance through the wires that exit the lock cylinder to the theft deterrent module. When the wires break the module doesn't see the resistance it is looking for and activates the security system.

This system is fairly simple to bypass. Solder a resistor between the wires that exit the ignition lock cylinder. The resistor needs to have same resistance as the pellet in the key. Simply measure the pellets resistance with an ohm-meter and have the electronics clerk (Radio Shack, etc) find a matching relay. While this is fairly simply to do, the cost of a new ignition lock cylinder is not that bad for these cars. On newer GM's I'd bypass (when the switch alone is well over a hundred dollars), although the method differs slightly. The resistor you install is predetermined (no pellet in the key)with the newer systems. A theft 'relearn' procedure (mentioned before) is performed which causes the theft deterrent system to recognize the new resistors (value) as 'security clearance.'

I believe your Buick has the VIN K 3.8 engine. Have you ever had trouble with the upper intake manifold (failure resembles head gasket failure).

1998 Buick LeSabre Engine   

Engine feels like it stumbles under light load, feel it in the seat as the car lightly shakes/shudders. Put in a new fuel filter, plugs and wires but did not correct the issue. Has no stored trouble codes.

Hello,

Inspect the coil packs very closely, looking for signs of carbon tracking and/or corrosion in the towers (where the wire connects). Also look for any cracks in the coil housiing.

Another thing to try... in darkness with the engine running- USING EXTREME CAUTION AROUND MOVING AND HOT ENGINE PARTS!! Keep it safe!- look for signs of stray electricity from the coils and plugs wires (I know the wires are new but still check them out). An assistant raise the rpm's (attempting to recreate the stumble) would be helpful. Please only attempt this if you can do so safely.

It sure sounds like a secondary misfire. How were the old plugs? Any black sooty deposits or clean whitish appearance?

Actually the plug's I took out looked good, electrodes worn down, the edges rounded off as to be expected but they all had a nice tan appearance to them.
I'll look it over good checking for what you suggested.
Take me a few days or so to get back to ya, it's my mothers car. Have to work on it around her schedule and mine.

Okay,

One other thing to overlook at this stage is a bad engine/trans mount. Shift from park to reverse with your foot firmly held on the brake and note if the engine shifts more than it should. This is probably not the problem but I wanted to make sure something like this didn't slip by you as I assume you haven't driven the car much.

Get back to me and we'll continue as necessary.

Ok I checked the coils, had a spare swapped it in one at a time. Third one seamed to make the difference. Mom wanted to replace all three anyway. Leaving the auto parts out of town up a small hill it did it again. Put on the new coils, did the same thing again. Runs fine on flat ground, roll into a small incline and lean on the pedal some to maintain speed and it bucks. More but the window won't allow me to scroll down. trying a nw reply typing bliilnd now...

My wife has a car with the same motor, I took the coil control from it and swapped it in my moms car. Didn't help, still did the same thing.
The intake has some oil laying on it, doesn't leak very much and always has as long as she has had the car. Might leak a 1/4 quart in 3000 miles. Not sure it has anything to do with this new issue or not but thought I'd mention it. I see intake leaks are a comman problem typing blikdnd agian.

The intakes tend to leak at the egr passageway, which allows coolant to enter the intake and therfore the combustions chammber. Are you losing any coolant? Also remove the oil cap and note if there is a slight sucking or blowing with the engine idling.

Try swapping the MAF (air flow sensor) with you wife's car. Take for a test drive. Any difference?

Ok I'll get her to bring it back as soon as she can, hopefully Saturday. Not sure if the MAF is the same on them both of them but I'll check.
When I say they have the same motor the Wife's car is a 05 impala with the 3800 so to extent they are the same I'm not sure yet. So the maf sensor might be different. No it doesn't loose any coolant, just has the small oil leak. Not bad enough oil leak to take the top of the motor off to correct it, at least not yet.

I think they'll be different, 99-05 is the same, while 98 down a few years is probably the same.

You can unplug the MAF and test. The engine will run bad for a bit, until the computer starts ignoring the MAF and pays closer attention to sister sensors. See if this aleviates the hesitation/stumble.

Ok the MAF sensors are different so I removed it, cleaned it and put it back in. I drove it around all over the place and it ran fine so I sent mom on her way with it.

Well might know she called when she arrived home, it had acted up again in her drive home.
So I didn't have the opportunity to try it with the MAF unplugged.
Do you still want me to try that test? or do you have other ideas?

Yes, try it unplugged. I'll get back to you as I just got my computer going again and need to catch up...

Does this problem happen at any/low speeds or only at faster speeds?

Happens for the most part at around 45-50 mph but can and does happen at lower speeds.

Shift down one gear quickly when it happens (OD to D). This will indicate if the problem is torque converter shutter.

Ok I'll try that but I do know if you give it just enough gas to make it down shift it stops doing it and smooths out.

Okay, this way you'll be trying it with the throttle in the same position.

I went to her house and added shudder fix to the trans, been snowing so she doesn't drive. I told her to just drive it normally and let me know if it helps.

I let you know as soon as she lets me know, few days probably.

I would like to take a moment and thank you for your continued help so, thank you!

1997 Buick LeSabre Heating / Cooling System   

97 Buick LeSabre--the a/c blows every where it's supposed to except the vents. I have checked under the hood and under the dash--cannot find anything rotted or broken so far. What have I missed?

you may need an adjustment on your heater control cable the blend air door may no be opening.
I can send you a diagram of the system if you like so you can see how it is suposed to work.
Just send me an email address to send it to

OK, I've tried everything I know and looked at. I have access to some of the vacumm
operated switches under the dash and have
tried adjusting and re-adjusting, but nothing
seems to open up to let the air through the
vents.

Send me the diagram of the system and the vacuum lines under the hood if you can, please.

You should have a vacume line diagram chart under the hood next to to the emissions information
I will need an email address to send it to you

[redacted]
Yes I see the chart and I think I traced
the vacuum line to a little check valve.
I took it loose and blew in it and sucked
in it---it seems to work ok. The rubber hose
to it seems a little deterioted, but no holes in it. Whatcha think?

That is fine you need to check the ones under the dash going to the heater.
I will send the diagram

I would like a refund of my fee. I was not
helped. The information I received I already
had. I have a Chilton Motor manual on this vehicle, but it has not helped me either.

Thank you anyway,
Tom Lancaster

email [redacted]

You said you would refund if the person ask and again I don't feel like anyone helped me
on anything that I didn't already know.

I am not the administrator.
I have spent valuable time in an attemt to help you and you are disatisfied.
You will have to email Mark

1997 Buick LeSabre Electrical / Lighting Systems   

At nite when the car is running and put in drive and when the headlights go on all interior lights on the car stay on example: rear view mirror lamps, center console, door lights, under dash lites. Dimmer switch does not shut them off unless car is in park. dimmer swithch while in drive only dims dash board lites not interior not interior lites. does have twlight sentenial to put headlights on at nite. pls help!!

you most likely have a body control module that is going bad., it is the center control for your lights and power options on the car.
One way to tell for sure is to do a computer scann on your PCM and draw the stored codes from it

is that an expensive part????? where is it

Your perimeter lighting control module ia the one you need to be concerned with, at this point I am trying to find the location will have access to other info tommorow.

still waiting to find out where that part is thanks!!

THE BCM MODULE IS THE IN FRONT OF CENTER CONSOLE ON PASSENGER SIDE BEHIND DASH
Sorry for the delay

1996 Buick LeSabre Electrical / Lighting Systems  When driving Always

one of the bulbs behind the cruise control light on the dashboard is out. How do I replace it. Royce

Thanks for the information you sent several days ago. I am trying to decide if I can do the job myself. I don't want to mess the car up.

Royce

Have I missed it completely? I haven't heard from you in a while.

Please advise,

Roger

Hello, The Instruement cluster needs to be removed to do this.

SAFETY FIRST!!!! DO NOT deploy the air bag!!!

Key OFF, remove the fuse for SIR system. Below the driver's side dash at the base of the steering column locate and disconnect the YELLOW SIR (air bag) connector for the harness that comes down from the air bag in the column to disable the air bag. From this point you must remember NOT to turn the ignition key past the first detent away from 'LOCK'. (You'll need to move the gearshift) If you do you will set a SIR System code. If you disconnect the battery you will eliminate this concern but you still must disable the air bag!!

The dash panel below the steering column has to come off so you may disconnect the gear select indicator that moves with the gear shift. (unless it is digital)

The facia around the cluster has to come off too. When you have removed the panel below the steering column you should see screws/bolts exposed across the lower edge of the cluster facia that need to come out. The facia then "pulls-out" toward you and the clips that fit the facia will release. A slight tug/jerking motion on the facia will pop the clips loose. Disconnect the cigar lighter socket electrical connector. If you have tilt steering column you may need to tilt it down for room to pull the facia out of your way. Some techs will lower the column by loosening the steering column mount bolts as needed. Set the facia aside. Remove the cluster mount screws and remove the cluster.

Reassembly is reverse order taking care to index the gear select indicator to synchronize with the shifter when in NEUTRAL position.

Roger

The bulb I am talking about is above the dash board under the window below a panel above the dashboard that has two plastic connectors (about 3/4 inch in diameter) in it. The panel goes all the way across the dashboard under the window. It appears that the CRUISE bulbs are under this panel. There must be two bulbs because I can read part of the CRUISE word but not all of it. The 'fasten seat belt' light and others are under this panel above the dash board.

My question really is how do I remove the panel?

Royce Culpepper

Boy did I go the wrong way here!

To get the dash top cover off each of the A/C outlet air deflectors need to be removed to see a dash top cover mount screw under each air deflector. You should also find three or four screws to remove across the defroster opening that also secure the top cover.

Twighlight Sentinel Photocell and the Sun Sensor may have wiring to be disconnected to set the top cover aside.

Better? I'm so sorry,

Roger

Thanks for the reply. I hope I've provided the help you need.

I've reread my message and I want to add that the windshield post garnish mouldings (trim) will also need to be removed when you are preparing to get the top of the dash off.

I'll look to hear how it goes,

Roger

1996 Buick LeSabre Fuel System Failing When starting Always

The problem appears to be either the fuel pump relay or the fuel pump. I have a new relay but I can't figure out where it goes. Clearly, if this doesn't work, I need a new fuel pump. I have already changed the filter.

Hello, Have you located a Fuse/Relay box under the hood near the battery? When the lid to the box is removed do you see a legend for the contents of the box? It should map where the relay is located in the box.

Look inside this same box for the fuse for the fuel pump. Has it blown? Check the fuse first and then please advise.

Roger

How are you doing here?

Thanks,

Roger

Hello, are you working on this one or are you finished?

Please update,

Roger

1996 Buick LeSabre Electrical / Lighting Systems   

want to find ground locations

Hello, Do you need them all or for a specific system?

Please advise,

Roger

We think there are some ground connections somewhere under the floor boards. Are there any ground wire connections or a junction box located under the floor boards or seat?

PS It is a 1995 Buick LeSabre

Yes, I believe there are grounds on a cross brace under the carpet below the front seats. And I understand it is year model 1995 LeSabre.

It is too late tonight for me to get the info you need for specific systems grounded there (under the seats). All Parts does not have a data base and we have weather related power problems in Oklahoma. I should get a better chance at my resources tomorrow.

May I ask what is going on with the car? As your question reads once I provide you the ground distribution my job would be finished here. Will that be all that you really need?

Roger

Hi Roger,

The car will run fine and then the engine light comes on and it will either stall or run rough. I had a garage look at the car and they tried several sensors and even changed the computer. a freind of mine has the same car and had the same problem. The problem was found under the floor boards with ground connections. I was going to check those connections.
Thanks for your help and good luck with the weather you are experiencing.

I'll get the ground distribution today. I'll need your email address or a fax number to send it out to you.

Roger

I have the ground distribution for you. I have been waiting for your email address or fax number.

I see that there are ground connections taped to the wiring looms in each of the front door sills below the carpet. These are junction connectors that can corrode if the carpet gets wet.

A junction connector is a metal strip where several ground wires from different circuits plug onto terminals on the strip.
Then a jumper wire will run to a point to under the kick panel where it bolts down. This makes for a less bulky connection to the car body.

These are easier to access as the seat and carpet removal should not be necessary.

Roger

What happened? I'm willing to help you any way I can. But, I haven't heard from you.

Roger

Hello, please update your question's status.

Thanks,

Roger

Thanks for your help Roger, our email address is [redacted]

I note the ground distribution I received is for the 1995 model. I pray it is the same.

I'm going to scan them to email and see how clear they are. I may have to go to KINKO and have them enlarged before I send them. They are not .pdf format or I would attach them without delay.

Will this work for you?

Roger

1996 Buick LeSabre Engine   

When car is driven and becomes warm or hot it runs fine. Runs out good with lots of power. The problem is when I stop and turn off the engine it will not start most of the time until the engine has cooled down. This happens intermitlently all the time

First have scanned for codes or if you want a 'good guess' I would say it is the Crankshaft Position Sensor...that particular sensor sometimes does not show up as being faulty on a scan and the symptoms are correct for that Sensor.
Sensor is cheap,readily available at parts stores and easy to change.

Is this a sensor that I can replace without having to put the car in a shop. Also does it require any resetting of any sort. Basically something I can do myself.

No shop required, my Grand Prix sensor was held on with only one 5/16" or 8mm screw
and an electrical plug.
No resetting to do..
Sensor is aprox the size of your index finger.
Bruce

Thank you for your information. In your opinion is the Crankshaft Position Sensor the highest probability the cause of my problem. I did replace the fuel pump and I feel sure that it wasn't the problem.

Yes, and you will see your local parts store has quite a few in stock as they do quit
very commonly.

In your first reply to me you stated that if there weren't any codes then most likely it would be the crankshaft position sensor. Upon further research is it possible that it could also be the camshaft position sensor. The way you described how easy to install the part, it would have to be the camshaft sensor instead of the crankshaft sensor. The crankshaft sensor would require major mechanical work to pull the harmonic balancer to get to it. I need to know which one you are really talking about. Thanks

Usually a cam position sensor will
set a code, you have checked for codes?
Sounds like you have a 3.8 as the 3.1 crank position sensor is on the outside of the block..

1995 Buick LeSabre Chassis / Suspension & Steering Malfunction When braking 

I have been having problems with the ABS light coming on in our 1995 Buick LeSabre. I had the brakes worked on in the front due to the problem. The car brakes smoothly now as compared to previous, but the light comes on yet and when it does or just immediately to coming on, the brakes act like they are failing. I almost ended up in the middle of a busy intersection yesterday as the brakes don't "kick in" responsively until the light comes on. The mechanic told us it was just a problem with the ABS sensor, which stupidly is in with the wheel bearing. Therefore, I would need to have the entire wheel bearing replaced and not just the ABS sensor. PLEASE HELP before I or my new young driver, age 16, end up in a terrible accident.

Wow! You need a person that will diagnose this problem properly for you.

I strongly recommend the car be looked at by a GM Dealer that has a TECH II Scanner. This scanner will monitor each wheel speed sensor, read codes which identify the component that is acting-up (while the car is being driven), and provide the data to ensure a proper repair.

There are national chain brake repair shops and even independent mechanics that have other brands of scanners that will do this type diagnosis too, but if the one you are dealing with thinks a bearing will fix a sensor problem, the second opinion will provide direction. The sensor is not on the bearing.

The ABS light should come "ON" when the brake system is in the anti-lock mode due to a difference in wheel speed sensor data. If a wheel is skidding (or falsely reported to be by a sensor), the system activates and rapidly applies and releases brake pressure to allow the skidding wheel to turn 20% of the time so you may steer the car. While anti-lock is doing this "pulsating the pressure", the brake pedal gets difficult to press any further because more pressure would try to lock up the wheel with the problem. Driver and system, in effect, work against each other as the system is designed to force a skidding wheel to turn 20% so that steering capability is restored/maintained. Remember how you cannot steer a sliding car on ice unless you let-up on the brake?

See a professional. Don't buy a repair you do not understand. Once you agree to have the car repaired and agree the correct process and parts are all you are paying for, you'll feel confident with your decision.

There is absolutely no higher priority system on a car than the brakes (my opinion). Even if a car won't start...if it can roll, the brakes must work properly.

Your thoughts?,

Roger

I STAND CORRECTED!!! On the 1995 LeSabre the wheel speed sensor is serviced WITH the bearing and hub assembly. If a front wheel speed sensor is at fault, you will indeed need a new hub/bearing/sensor assembly. (The rear sensors are sold seperately.) I was wrong and I appologize.

Source:

Bob Moore Buick, OKC, OK. [redacted] Parts Department

Roger

Do you know if this is something that is defect as far as GM/Buick is concerned? It seems foolish to put the ABS in with the wheelbearing assembly as then you have an enormous expense to replace that part (wheel bearing) that is not bad yet.

GM made changes to newer year models that allow for the sensor to be serviced seperately on a front wheel. In 1995 it is a design limitation, rather than a defect. No consolation, just an expensive fact. The newer design does not fit the 1995.

Roger

1995 Buick LeSabre Engine Making Noise When driving When warm 

1995 Buick LeSabre Custom
V - 6 3800 103,500 mileage

Engine / Noise from under hood area , only occurs when engine is well warmed up and after it has been driven at highway speeds.

Sounds like a rubber hose banging against something but it is not. Under hood initial inspection sound ' seems ' like it is coming from around the power steering pump area.

Assumed it might be like later 80 ' s timing gear plastic button but no luck there.

Sound does seem to get louder after awhile but it is ' not ' metallic in any notice or sound whatsoever. Usually at rest right after getting off freeway but it soon quiets enough where you ' think ' its safe to drive again ; still no one can FIND a problem , fix , cure or reason for this noise.

Mechanics have had and worked at vehicle for 2 weeks and ' inspected ' every thing and no cure or defect is to be found.

Transmission , torque converted , power steering pump , alternator , oil pan removal ; honestly most everything has been inspected and ruled out.

As it only occurs after vehicle is warmed and driven at highway speeds for a bit its difficult for mechanical inspection at rest or after engine has cooled some and noise disappears ; and after item is ruled out unless its put back in roadworthy condition and driven again till noise returns.



David A. Collins

Has anyone removed the belt to see if the noise disappears? This is the absolute best way to eliminate all belt accessories. This would be assuming the noise would last long enough to remove the belt (which wouldn't take long for test purposes)

Once noise appears does it exist at all engine speeds and does it change with engine speed? Does noise change with engine load, for instance while holding down the brake and pressing on the accelerator (not to long and don't floor it)? Try drive and reverse.

I'll be back in a bit. I'm going to look for any service bulletins that may apply.

None of the TSB's appear to apply.
If you wish to take a look at the TSB's yourself, there is one site I know of where you can view them free of charge.

http://www.e-toolbox.com/ads

Sir ,

Belt removal was about the 3 rd step in prior work by my mechanic shop. That's when it was considered to inspect drivetrain , torque converter and then later to remove oil pan. All options tried still has not FOUND a defect but ' noise ' is still there.

But remember please it will ONLY occur after vehicle has been driven for a bit and has become warm [ 10 miles or so at highway speeds ] it will never make a sound even if it idles for 8 + hours in shop.



David A. Collins

Has spark knock and exhaust leak been ruled out?
How loud is the noise? And does it change with engine speed? Is it rythmic or sporatic?

Noises are about the toughest to diagnose over the internet.
I am going to contact other techs for additional input.
One unusual problem these cars have is with the egr valve letting more heat through than the plastic could handle. But I can't think of how this could contribute to the sound.

Sir ,

YES the issues with spark knocking and exhaust leakage have been investigated and ruled out.

Additionally ; an ' old' issue with Buick V 6 ' s and a rubber cone on the harmonic balancer causing a similar rubber banging sound have been inspected and removed from a extensive list of possible causes that are not the cause of this knocking when warm and after highway driven sound.

I can drive all over town at low speeds say 35 or so and it never knocks. [ but a vehicles usage is very limited if one can not physically go on a trip or drive at highway speeds ] Even sat in Mechanics Shop for almost a full 8 + hours running at idle and it never made a sound.



David A. Collins

Sir ,

Excuse Me !! I ' ve been reading over our responses and reply to SEE what has and has Not been covered as I still have a vehicle that's questionable to take or make a trip in ; discovered that I did not exactly answer your questions regarding NOISE , CHANGE / S , LOAD / S EFFECTS.

Yes it is a constant noise once it begins. It does increase as engine speed also increases. and yes its ' volume ' will increase slightly as a load is places upon the engine. IE : click on AC and it slightly increases in volume and loudness and repetition. Yes it ' occurs ' in DRIVE / REVERSE once it has begun. I ' ve never had or attempted to [ CAUSE it to occur and let it sit at idle until it Stops ] or does it stop making its noise. Just know that on cold start it is silent and once warm and driven at highway speeds its there and never goes away once warm even when just driven at low city speeds.

Hope all ISSUES addressed.



David A. Collins

Sorry for the delay, I've been having some troubles of my own.

Some things I've gathered from others so far are,
the engine is known for bearing noise.
More remote- Coolant boiling in a restricted passage.
Timing chain guide.
Spark from a leaky coil or ignition wire.

I'm still gathering information from others.
Email me if you wish,

[redacted]

And thanks for answering the questions. When I consult other mechanics it helps a great deal. Hang in there, this is a tough one.

Any luck finding the problem? I have not come up with anything new that is relevant.

You may wish to consult a machine shop/engine builder and have them take a listen.

jesse7779 Sir ;

NOPE I have no luck whatsoever on this ' Noise ' issue and my Buick. I ' ve been asked to come pick up my car from the Mechnical Repair Shop its been living in because its taking up usable space and to them and their mechinical folks they are at a LOSS also.

I ' ve begun looking towards [ 1 ] Either another possible Repair Facility or [ 2 ] an engine swap because as I ' ve got a unfixable noise and no one ' know ' what to do it LOOKS like thats an avaable option.



David A. Collins

What state do you live in?

Sir ,

I live in TEXAS .....

Conroe ; about 35 miles North of Houston by way of I 45.

I wish I lived closer. Best bet is to find a reputable engine builder who has seen and heard it all.

I could attempt to locate a mechanic in your area if you wish.

Any chance you'll be at the superbowl tomorrow?

By the way you are certain the torque converter and the torque converter clutch can not be the problem? Or noise from the transmission cooler?

In any event keep in contact.

1995 Buick LeSabre Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start When starting No pattern

1995 Buick LaSabre will not start, have a security light that flashes but car will not do anything, even tried a different key. What can I do?

Hello, Do you have an ignition key that has a computer in it?

The ignition lock cylinder has a two white wire wiring harness that transmits the key chip value to the security system control module. Since these are small gauge wires and they do move when the lock cylinder rotates, over time they will break at or near the lock cylinder case. With an open circuit the security system doesn't know the key is in the ignition so the starter interupt feature inhibits engine start.

The ignition lock cylinder will need to be replaced as the wire harness will break at a point that cannot be repaired. The new cylinder will come with new wires and all previous ignition keys will be retired for new ones with the new locks mechanical key cut on NEW keys using the same chip value as the original keys.

An auto shop, a body shop, or a lock smith can replace the ignition lock cylinder for you. Get their estimate and decide what you'll do.

If you want to do this yourself, please advise.

Roger

Hello, Haven't heard from you. Do you still need help?

Thanks,

Roger

1995 Buick LeSabre Electrical / Lighting Systems Failing When driving No pattern

For the past 9 months, I have been experiencing intermittent electrical problem (6 times) where the car cuts off while driving it. There appears to be no pattern. There have occasions where the car cuts off while traveling at highway speed (55 -60). Then there have been occasions when it cuts off while making a left/right turn at low speeds. Most of the time when the car cuts off, electrical current continues to flow to the instrument panel/gages and lights and the car can be immediately restarted. However, some times, all electrical components shut down with no currents. After about 5-10 minutes, electrical current resumes flowing to the components and the car will start. The car still has many of its original electrical components (alternator, fuel pump). The fuel pump makes a buzzing noise, but its being doing it for several years. I have taken the car to the dealer and other repair facilities and the car always checks out ok.

We will need to take a guess since true testing can only be done while it is failing. Your symptoms match those of a failing ignition switch. This is in the steering column and will make the very symptoms your describe. Try it and most likely your problem will be solved.

1995 Buick LeSabre Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving Always

The brake warning light is on even though the parking brake is not set. I unplugged the connector from the switch under the dash and it still comes on. This should not happen since the switch is normally closed. I checked the potential of the lead going to the switch and it already is grounded. I believe I have a short to ground somewhere up circuit or there is maybe a relay in that circuit that is stuck or shorted. Is there a relay for that circuit and where is it?

Hi, Let's start by my asking you if the master cylinder reservoir is low on fluid?

I'm not aware of a relay involved here.

Roger

the fluid level is adequate in the reservoir

Thank you, the park brake switch is disconnected....will you try disconnecting the fluid level switch on the master cylinder reservoir?

Roger

1995 Buick LeSabre Ignition System   

I have a 95 Buick lesabre that started to misfire very badly. I woke up one morning and there it was when I drove. I have done the following:
1. Cleaned EGR valve
2. Replaced the fuel filter
3. replaced the ignition cable
4. replaced the throttle position sensor.
5. Swapped a known working coil pack into all three positions
Checked the plugs and they are not fouling
6.Changed the thermostat as a result of putting in the TPS
Previously the car would misfire multiple times in rapid sucession(10-15 time in an sequence event)
Sometimes it woul be like a fish bite. One miss whilr driving in overdrive.(It misfires when driving or idling especially under engine load)The check engine light has never come on so the computer is not seeing or storing a code.
I drove it about three miles this morning to the autoparts store(temp dropped in my area to 40 degrees overnite from 70 degrees)(Maryland) and the car ran ok until I got back in to drive home then it misfired in rapid sucessions and then smoothed out as I got rolling after about a mile or so.Before this morning it would Always misfire under engine load.I am now looking at testing the ignition module under the coilpacks if it is possible to do so.(It is a 3.8 litre SFI engine)

There is not much you can do as far as testing unless the module dead.

You did not mention the spark plug wires. These are one of the most common failures that causes misfires. Also inspect the coil towers for corrosion where the coils plug into the module.

If you can do so safely, use extreme caution around moving engine parts, look for stray electricity around the ignition components in low light conditions when the problem is present. This will let you know if the misire is the result of plug wires, coils, etc.

Let me know and we'll continue.

Thanks for responding.
BTW replaced ignition cales first thing

When the engine is running okay, try tapping (not to hard) on the PCM (computer) to see if this recreates the rough running condition. The computer is quite a trouble spot on these vehicles.

Is your vehicle partially OBD2 compliant?

ok I'll try that.thanks for the response.
What is obd compliant?

OBD- On board diagnostics, you car was built during a transitional period from OBD1 to OBD2. You can tell by looking at the diagnostic connector (lower dash) and counting the number of terminals.

OBD2 requires a scan tool (free check at autozone) on your vehicle (as with most vehicles), but if your car is only partially OBD2 compliant a gm capable scan tool is required to read the codes.

Ok.
I'll see how many there are.

There are eight slots on the computer hook up under the sterring wheel.

btw I tapped the computer brain behind the glove box(silver colored) with a screwdriver handle and was unable to determine if it missfired. I will need to get an assistant to tap on it while I acelerate a bit in DR (drive) That was a good tip.

1995 Buick LeSabre Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

The 4 washers on the back side of my sub frame rusted out causing the back end of the front sub frame to drop down and my steering wheel turns freely but the tires do not turn. I am trying to figure out what the problem is and how to repair it. I have the parts to secure the sub frame but I am not sure what to do about the steering mechanism, please help.

When the subframe dropped down, the steering linkage to the rack and pinion (on the rear of the frame) came apart. You will need to put that back together as you lift the subframe up into place. It is a slip joint, secured with a pinch bolt.

Do you have a diagram showing detail from a service manual that you could send?

I do not have a diagram. You will find the slipped joint either under the dash or between the firewall and the rack and pinion. It will be covered with a circular plastic shroud.

1995 Buick LeSabre All Part Groups   

Hiya.My 95 Lesabre sometimes wont start,cuts out when driving down a road.Last week it momentarily cut out then came right back on.I've had the Ignition Module replaced and still the same problem.Any advice would be greatly appreciated. George

Strongley suggest getting it scanned for codes.A service offered for free at many auto parts stores. The car has too many sensors etc to replace randomly.
If I had to take a guess, I would suspect the Crankshaft Position Sensor.It has a two wire plug that plugs into the Ignition Module that you replaced.If I remember correctly, the wire traverses around the passenger side of the engine to the back. Sensor is located about in the center (rear) of engine about 3 inches above the pan rail.The sensor is about the size of your finger,has a tab on the side with a hole, that a small bolt goes through. If you are planning on changing it yourself, it is cheap but difficult to reach. You will require a 5/16" (8mm) wrench or socket.
Just a guess, and sometimes a scan does NOT show that sensor failure.

Thanks for responding.I failed to mention that a mechanic did test the codes ,and said it was the module.Now he can't seem to find the cause for it always starts when he has the car.I've had cars all my life,but never a problem like this.Frustrating!!!!
George

1994 Buick LeSabre Engine Stalling When starting No pattern

check engine light comes on. stays on. car starts when cold rough, and stalls. after warming up it's a little better, but stalls when riding. the O-2 sensor was replaced. Also the MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR. THE car also rides like someone is giving it more gas, and moving faster than it should be.

The drivability and emissions 3800(VIN 1) & (VIN L) (SFI) Chart A-2, calls for clearing the codes first. Then drive the car and see if the SES/MIL light (aka MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LIGHT ) comes back on. Work any code set from smallest to largest number and in numerical order.

We need someone to clear the codes and see if the light goes out after the engine starts and before it is driven.

If the SES won't go out, and there are no codes at all, I have a trouble chart for that too.

Please advise,

Roger

Hello, if the check engine light is on (and stays on) the computer has a code stored as to the cause. Have you checked to see what code/codes are stored?

I'll try to help, please advise.

Roger

The code read it was the MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR. THE
SENSOR WAS REPLACED. BUT IT DIDN'T HELP. NO CODE
SHOWS UP NOW. BUT THE " SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT " STAYS
ON, AND THE CAR STILL STARTS UP IRRADICALLY.

What size engine do you have, please? Did someone clear the code after the MAF SENSOR was replaced and now there is no code, but the SES LIGHT remains on? Or, was there a brief period of no light & no code until the present condition showed up?

Roger

The engine size is - 3.8 liter V6. After the MAF
sensor was replaced, the condition was unchanged.
The code did not show up, for replacement of MAF
again. The SES light remains on. After the car
cools down, on restarting, it idles very rough and
stalls. After running awhile it seems to be ok.

Ok, I'll gather more tech info and get back as soon as I can. The 3.8L uses an OBDII scanner for reading and clearing codes. We can't cheat there. But, I know there is a diagnostic chart for "NO CODES, CHECK ENGINE LIGHT REMAINS ON" and I'll find it.

Roger

I'll know more tomorrow. You stated that the code did not show up for the replacement of MAF again. Using a scanner, has anyone tried clearing the codes even though it is suspected there are no codes?

With the key OFF, disconnect the MAF SENSOR. Turn the key on. Connect a dc volt meter between from the connector terminal A and ground. Do you have 4-6 volts?

Please advise,

Roger

Roger, let's start from here. I have a better under-
standing now. Everything I said previously is ok.
----When I start the car first thing in the morning.
--The car runs rough and will attempt to stall, but
I keep pumping the gas a little. After driving two
blocks it settles down and runs pretty good. The
SES light stays on all the time.
----It appears like the choke is not working ( if
there is one ). After the car warms up it runs ok.

ROGER; THE CODES HAVE ALL BEEN CLEARED. THE SES NEVER
GOES OUT, PRESTART OR AFTER START..
WHEN STARTING THE CAR IDLES VERY ROUGH & WANTS TO
STALL. WHEN YOU START RIDING, IT FEELS LIKE IT IS
BEING FED THE GAS, AND THE CAR IS MOVEING ABOUT 30
MPH. WITHOUT TOUCHING PEDDLE. AFTER RIDING ABOUT
5 MIN. THE CAR APPEARS TO RUN NORMAL. BUT THE SES
LIGHT NEVER GOES OUT.

OK, with the key OFF disconnect the PCM connectors. Turn the key ON. The SES light should be OFF. Is it? If not then repair a short to ground in circuit #419 or faulty IPC.

If the SES light is OFF, check the PROM for proper installation. If OK, replace the PCM using the original PROM. Turn the key ON. Select MISC. TESTS, DASH LAMPS using a TECH I Scanner and turn the MIL ( service engine soon light ) OFF. Did the light go OFF? If no, replace the PROM. If yes, the system is OK.

Source: OEM SHOP MANUAL, HELM, Inc.

Roger

ROGER ! WHAT ARE THE DEFINITIONS OF PCM--IPC---

Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and Instruement Panel Cluster (IPC)

Roger

How are you coming along with this query?

Roger

Hello? Will you please update this question status?

Thanks,

Roger

Are we finished here? Please update.

Thanks,

Roger

Roger....the problem with ( SES ) light, and motor
running roughly.........is solved..... The computer
had to be replaced, at $ 248.oo. I clicked on --
Pay Mechanic--so you should receive the $ 10.00.
Thanks for your help.

Thank you ,Sir! I'm glad you have fixed this problem.

Sailing on,

Roger

1994 Buick LeSabre Engine Stalling When driving No pattern

The engine dies while driving 6 miles or less. This has happened three times in the last week. Yesterday it died right out of the garage.

It will restart after about 15 minutes or so. Until yesterday. It would not restart until after an hour.

While cranking and not starting I did the following:
1. I checked the fuel pressure and it read 40psi on the gauge.
2. I checked for spark at the plugs while cranking and there was plenty of spark. Still not starting.
3. I removed the ignition module and has AutoZone check the module and they said it was okay. After reinstalling it, it started but would only run a few seconds. I tried again after about an hour and it ran and again today started and it ran without dieing.

What else could it be?
Thanks for your help.
Jack

It's likely your losing injector pulse during no start. Use "Noid Light" to check for injector pulse. Noid lights are inexpensive and available at your local autozone.

You need to check the trouble codes. Enter "gm trouble code retrieval" in a search engine. There are many sites with instructions. You need to inspect you ALDL connector to see if you can check codes without a scan tool. Some 94's and up require a scan tool to check codes. Some autozones scan for codes free of charge.

I forgot to mention that I had a failure while passing by a goodyear store and quickly pulled in when I got the car started again. They checked for engine codes and found none. No service engine lights come on the dash either.

Jack

Okay, does the service engine light come on with key in on position (not cranking position) during no start. As it normally does.

It would not hurt to check the codes yourself. If you can without a scantool.

Do you have a multi-meter?

Yes, the service engine light comes on when I turn the key to the ignition position like it always has.

I started the car again this AM and it ran for a few minutes then stopped. I hooked up the noid light, spark check tool and the fuel gauge. When the engine would run the fuel gauge read 35 psi, the noid light flashed and there was plenty of spark. When the engine died and I cranked the starter the fuel gauge read 40psi, plenty of spark but the noid light did not flash.

Is there a problem with a sensor?

I don't have a way of checking the codes again.

When the engine dies there is not service engine light that comes on, just the oil, volts and temp lights. If I turn the key off and back on then the other lights come on such as service engine now, seat belt, etc.

Thanks for your help.

Exhaust smells like burnt firecrackers......

Need to determine if the camshaft position sensor is sending a signal during no start. The sensor gives computer signal to fire injectors.
Concerns here are the sensor should set a code and don't typically cause engine to stall. But can, so start here. Need troubleshooting instructions?

I forgot to mention the smell is from the the catalytic converter. Hopefully it has not been damaged.

I forgot about a great diy'er site. This should help!

http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/

This will give test procedures, diagrams, etc.

I removed the camshaft sensor and ignition module and had both tested.......second time for the Ignition module. Both okay. Since the noid light doesn't blink when cranking after engine dies could there be a relay involved with the electrical signal being sent to the injector? If so, where is it located? There is a bank of relays along the firewall on the RH side in the engine compartment but they are not well identified. Thanks again for your help. Car will still start but will run only a minute or two. Intermittent relay???

Engine has spark and fuel pressure.

Jack

I checked the link I suggested earlier and it didn't work. This one will, I hope:

http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Manual%20Lookup/cal_ModelLookup.html

The car runs cold but quits after it has ran for a bit. I assume the parts have time to cool before they are tested (at local autozone). All this will tell you is autozone finds them to be good while cold.

If you don't have a mulitmeter (DVOM), which you can get for less than $10 at walmart, we will try a different approach.

Solid state devices will often fail when they are warm or hot but function fine when cold. This appears to be your experience. What you can do is get an aerosal product you can spray to chill individual components. When car stalls and won't restart spray cam sensor. Retry? No start? Quickly spray ignition module and retry. Etc.

There are other possible causes. Just trying to rule out the most common first.

Radio shack has a product named compound cooler or componenet cooler. Use safety precautions with use of this product.

Tried the component cooler to no avail. Retried the noid light and same results. No flash or power to the injectors after the engine dies and while cranking.

There are 8 relays located on the firewall but after studying the Haynes manual wiring diagram I can not determine which is the correct one. There are two fuse boxes located above them.

I do have a dvom meter if that will help.

Back to the coolant I used. It took several minutes for the car to warm to the point that the engine quit. I then sprayed the coolant on the camshaft sensor and had another person crank the engine. No start. I then sprayed the Ignition module as best that I could with the coils in place and again not start.

Next step?

Did you also spray the crank sensor?

And, the link I gave you earlier, has test procedures for the sensors. It takes a while to find what you are looking for, but there is good information there. I will check for alternative sources, something that maybe easier navigate around.

The site you recommend says the following:

If the camshaft signal is lost while the engine is running, the fuel injection system will shift to a calculated fuel injected mode based on the last fuel injection pulse, and the engine will continue to run.

If the above is true then the sensor must not be my problem. Do you agree with the above statement?

If I test this sensor I will do it on the vehicle by using test leads that connect the sensor to the wiring harness and hook my test leads up to the afore mentioned leads so that the vehicle can run and get 'hot' ........maybe then we can reach a conclusion. Of course doing this test depends on what you have to say about the quoted message above.

Thanks again....... Jack

I agree that is the way it is designed to work. And the cam and crank sensors usually throw a trouble code.

If you go to the site I gave you...
under: Repair Information
click: Engine Electrical
then: Electronic Ignition System
and: Diagnosis and Testing

Figure 9 should match your car?
Notice the wires that enter the Ign Module from the Crank and Cam sensors. Also note the reference wires that go from the Ig Module to the PCM (computer). If you can take readings from the fuel, spark, and cam reference wires (the ones that go from the ignition module to the pcm). Then take readings when it quits. We can determine if the problem is before the ig mod or after.
Take time to study the diagram. If I had a good scanner I could send you better info. The free site is usefull but a bear to navigate around.
For the heck of it, next time it quits unplug the coolant sensor. Will it start now? Yes get in touch. No, which it probably won't, nevermind.
good luck
and feel free to email me
[redacted]

I've looked at Fig 9 before but can't read it. It is so blurry that even when I enlarged and printed it out I can't make out half of the wording.

Finding the cooland sensor is a bear. Using the Hayne's manual It is supposed to be on the end of the engine opposite the water pump. Can't locate it on either end.

I would still like to know which relay is for the injectors in that bank of 8. Do you know or can you tell me how to find out?

Thanks again. Jack

I'm not aware of a relay for the injectors. My schematic shows a 10 amp fuse in the relay center. It is a pink wire going from the fuse to the injectors. This is key on power to the voltage. Whenever the key is on there should be positive voltage to the injector. The pcm provides the injector ground, which is a pulsing on/off signal. So to fire the injector we need the key on positive voltage feed (dc volts on your dvom-one lead to ground the other to injector connector). ANd the injector 'on' ground signal from the injector driver in the pcm. The pcm uses reference feeds from the ignition module. The ignition module gets signals from the crank/cam sensors. You should have wiring diagrams in your haynes manual. Find the PPL/WHT and BLK wires in the diagrams. They go from the ignition module to the pcm. There are a couple other ignition reference wires too. Need to see if one of these references is being lost. If reference is lost, the ign mod or cam/crank sensor is bad. It is hard to check the module but easy check cam/crank sensors with dvom. If output reference to pcm is lost (and cam crank signals are present) first check connections then replace module.
If:
1- references to pcm from ig module are present
2- key on voltage to injector is okay

The problem is with the pcm itself or the injectors are shorting internally.

By the way, figure 9 is to blurry. Are you clicking on the diagram? This will open the diagram in a new window. And it should be clearer.

Been away so am now back at it....Thanks for pointing out about 'clicking' on diagram to enlarge.

I checked for voltage at the injector. 12+ volts.
Is there a way to check the pulse ground from the pcm at the enjector? Without screwing something up that is.

I found a dianostic tree for the 3.8 VIN L engine that also points out the circut you mentioned. RB9 to the pcm. There are three connectors at the pcm on this vehicle. As I understand it you pull off the connector and read RB9 while cranking to ground using the vdom? Is this doable without ruinning something?

I checked the voltage bewteen harness connection pins A-B and B-C at the camsensor when the engine shut down hot and they read 6 and 12 respectively. The voltage at the injector was also read after shutdown at 12+.

One thing I noticed was that when I rapidly increased engine speed the engine tended to die sooner. I rechecked the fuel pressure again and it held steady under those same conditions.

The engine dying sooner under higher rpms and the smell you noted bring a plugged exhaust into question. If you have a vacuum gauge monitor engine vacuum before stall. A plugged converter will show up as a steep drop off in vacuum.
I suggest you check for the ref signals with the engine cold first. You want to be able to compare the start vs no-start values as they appear on your meter.
Testing circuits, key always in off position when unplugging a connector. Better yet disconnect the negative battery terminal. Reconnect after test connections are made.

Testing the pcm signal to the injector. A wiggle test of the wires while engine is running(If you can wiggle any wire and recreate stall you have likely found problem). Just be careful not to use to much force and create a problem. A wiggle test is worth a try. Caution around moving engine parts! test is noid light, which you have already covered. I should ask if you have verified noid light works (flashes when all is fine).
You have an abundance of patience. You are ahead of several mechanics I know. In this situation they would throw in a new ignition module. Then go from there. Some call it shotgunning. Keep throwing parts at it til the problem is goes away. Waste of precious money in my book.
Remember you can drop me an email anytime,
[redacted]

I may be going away for the week-end. If not you'll hear from me.

I guess I'm just stubborn......besides, I like 'fix'en' things and learning while doing so.

It would be easy to 'replace' components and I have already had parts quotes from Autozone for the PCM, Ignition Module and Camsensor. $316.......

I don't think that it is a vaccuum problem. After dieing the noid light doesn't come on while cranking like it does when it starts and runs.

I rechecked the sensor harness voltage cold and also looked at a way to measure the Ignition module output to the PCM and to measure the PCM RB9 circuit. So many wires and no good way to hook up a VDOM that I can see. The PCM has three connectors, red, white and blue. each has a number of colored wires of varying designs/colors. I am assuming from what I can see that the red connector comes from the Ignition module but there are no markings to veryify.

After all of this monkeying around I decided to try the noid light again. The car started and while cranking the light flashed and continued to flash. Then I remembered! I forgot to hook up the Camsensor. The car was running anyway so perhaps that eliminates the sensor as a problem? I shut down the engine and turned off the key and plugged it back in. Restarted the car and the noid light flashed as before. As the engine begin to die the light stopped flashing and would not light when recranking.

I guess I need some help on how to hook up the DVOM successfully to the Ignition Module and/or PCM. Have a good weekend.

Jack

What you can do is back probe one of the connectors. The probe on meters is usually to big. You need a back probe for this purpose. Or anything that will fit, just don't damage the connector.
It would be nice if you lived near by, I have access to a parts car.
I don't know on the color of the pcm connector.

Sunday 8/3/03 Diagnostics Summary

Buick engine died three times while driving. Would restart after about 10 to 20 minutes.
The Service Engine light did not come on during the failure.
The second failure occured almost in front of a GoodYear Store. Managed to get the engine running again and drove in. They hooked up their equipment and checked for failure codes on the computer but none where present. Left the car there and running all afternoon and it didn't stop. Drove it home. The third failure occured the next day a mile from home and after a while it restarted and I managed to get it home.

The following day (the fourth time) it died as I was just backing out of the garage. After restarting I have done the following:

Checked the fuel pressure. Okay at 40 psi.
Ran the engine until it died and rechecked fuel pressure while cranking and with key on. Checked 40 psi.
Checked for spark at the plugs after engine died again while cranking and it was okay.
Installed noid light at the injector wire. Light flashed while engine ran but not after it died even while cranking.
Checked voltage at the injector harness after the engine died, key on and it checked B+.
Removed cam sensor and ignition module and had them tested at AutoZone. Checked okay.
Checked voltage at cam sensor harness. Checked per spec.
Left cam harness unhooked and started engine. Engine ran but the Service Engine light came on the dash. After a few minutes the engine died as before.
I noticed that during rapid acceleration the engine would sometimes die quicker. Repeated this several times.
After engine died I did the following:
Checked voltage to RB9 circuit at the PCM with key on. Checked B+.
Checked the voltage at RB8 the fuel circuit and it checked 5 volts.
Restarted the engine after hooking up the connection to the PCM and after running a few seconds I accelerated the engine rapidly and it died just like that. No stumbling or missing. Just like shutting off the key. Tried to restart and it would not start. After a few minutes it started again. Repeated the acceleration and it died again.

I'm about to try replacing the PCM (a year ago a mechanic told me the PCM was bad because the cruise control would not work. I figured I could live without the cruise as the cost was too much or so I thought at the time.)
Any other suggestions? Are there any other sensors that would cause an engine 'failure' like I'm describing?

Hope you had a great weekend.........

Jack

PS....I made adapter pins out of a paper clip to hook up to the connector at the PCM...worked fine.

Haven't heard from you since the last note I sent a week ago. I installed a new ECM and now the car won't crank at all. I assumed that the VATS system was not reading the key resistance for the computer that was installed. The rebuilt computer has the PROM from my original computer. Question....Does the computer determine the resistance value required for the key? I am now trying different resistor values to try and match the 15 values that GM uses for their VATS module. I would appreciate a reply...hopefully you know the answer. Jack

Check your email. Sorry for the delay.

1994 Buick LeSabre Engine Stalling When driving Always

Engine stalls and will not restart for several minutes. Sometimes will not restart for half hour or more.

Crankshaft sensor replaced. Computer replaced. Ignition module replaced. Also, when engine is stalled, electricity to windows and emergency flasher has shut off. When starting engine, it is necessary to depress gas pedal a bit; will not start at idle throttle.

This car has been in garage for repair several times in the past month with same problem.

Are there still any fault codes in the computer like a 41 or 42? The most common thing to happen is the Cam sensor and Crank sensor. These Items should be replaced together. Also verify that the garage replaced your crank sensor.(maybe they replaced the cam sensor, some people mix the 2 items up)Sometimes still you can have a bad part right out of the box. Good luck
If you accept this response and need further assistance you can contact me at [redacted]

Walt Boyer
ASE Master Tech

Followed Mr. Boyers' instructiions, and replaced camshaft sensor. Now, crankshaft and camshaft sensors have been replaced along with the computer. Car ran great for about 100 miles. Would not start after stopping at a store. Waited several minutes, car still would not start,. Waited 1 hour, and car still would not start. Had to have it towed home.
Waited several hours for engine to completely cool down; engine still will not start. Engine turns over very fast, but does not start.

How many miles are on your car? Are there any current fault codes in your computer? Do you have fuel pressure, spark, and an injector pulse? Have you cheked to make sure the trigger for the cam sensor is still attached to the cam sprocket? There are so many different items I would check if the car was in my shop. I do not know the extent of your knowledge or skills. The purpose of this forum is to try and get some direction towards a repair. It is very difficult to hit the cure dead on without any hands on diagnostics. We as Certified Techs can only base your description on our experience. We can only advise you of what possibly can be wrong and are willing to talk you through almost anything. But our help should be rewarded by your acceptence of our response. I have provided an Email address to try and assist you further if you need it.

[redacted]

1994 Buick LeSabre Electrical / Lighting Systems Failing  No pattern

There is no power going to the fuel pump. The ignition cranks, but will not catch. Headlights work, windows do not. Any help?

Hi,
That sounds like a bad ignition switch, or a bad fuse. Do the dash lights come on when you turn the key on?

yes, all dash lights come on. All fuses/relays have been checked. fule pump works when jumped with battery.

Does the car start when the fuel pump is jumped?

In the relay center, there is a 20A fuse in cavity #6 for the fuel pump. It should be hot all the time. In cavity 'N', there is the fuel pump relay. One pin should be hot all the time, diagonal goes to the fuel pump. If you bridge those with a wire, the pump should run. If it starts, we are getting close to the answer.
Dale

1994 Buick LeSabre Ignition System   

I am trying to get an additional ignition key for my daughters 1994 Buick Lesabre. I need to find the resistance of the key. I have unable to get a reading of the key we have. Any idea what the resistance might be? Thanks

Need the resistance reading in ohms preferable.

Hello, There are 15 different key values! A lock smith or any GM Dealer should be able to read your key and make you another key.

I wouldn't have a resistance value without knowing the key chip number.

Roger

1994 Buick LeSabre Engine Making Noise When idling No pattern

Used to knock every few minutes or so, this morning it was happeing constant. and louder when idling at stop lights.

Primarily you want to check your oil levels and you will need to hone in on the location of that knocking you can do this with a stethescope attached to a short hose and find out from which side the noise is coming from and lower or upper engine compartment
is it a thumping or pinging tapping or knocking and find out if it is a piston a crankshaft or bearing a connecting rod and so on as all theses relate to the same symptoms to better diagnose the problem
I hope this helps
Macconneck

Still not sure of the location, but it's definately not a thudding sound like the lifters when Oil Level is low, it's more like a pinging knock, it's with the beat of the the engine and doesn't increase in frequency when the speed changes. like some type of wheel or Gear that always turns at the same rate.

Sounds like there may be a part loose and slapping back at the engine
It would really be helpful to pinpoint a location without a better description of the location
It will be very hard to tell
Anything else would be a guess

1994 Buick LeSabre Heating / Cooling System   

A/C blows out the windshield defrost vents. The mode controls still work - heater, bi/level, but nothing comes out the dash vents. There are three colored vaccuum tubes that I see - red, green and white that go the actuators. Red appears to control inside/outside air. Green and white go to a black plastic cylinder that is about the size of a tuna can. I can't see how to remove it or do anything with it. What controls the dash vents and what do I need to do?

Hello, Look under the hood for a vacuum line that has broken, split or has disconnected. The small plastic vacuum line that connects to a reservoir (black ball shape) can get disconnected by accident when checking the transmission fluid.

Look under the dash on the right side for a black box that has an electrical connector and a vacuum line manifold of multi-colored vacuum lines connected to it. This is the hvac programmer.

Disconnect the vacuum line connector and verify engine vacuum arrives at the connector on a solid black line in the connector (engine running).

Did you locate a vacuum line problem?

Please advise,

Roger

I have vacuum at the programmer and the control panel is working properly.

The problem is likely within the programmer. It is the control box for directing vacuum to the appropriate vacuum actuators for mode selection from the control panel.

Check as best you can to see if a door linkage has become broken or disconnected from the actuator. Should all you can see appear normal try a programmer.

That little black box is expensive. You may want to consider a used part from a salvage yard to control cost.

Roger

Can you tell me which actuator controls the airflow to the dash vents. I have red, white, green and blue tubes.

I'll have to get to a different data base to be sure. I can do this later this afternoon.

Meanwhile, I'd be curious what happens if the system is on and you thump on the programmer case with a screwdriver handle. Did the airflow delivery to the dash outlets wake up??

Roger

Thumping didn't help. Look foward to hearing which line I am after when you get a chance to check. If the programmer is bad, perhaps I could switch to a port that is working since it will change modes, I just can't get the dash vents to open.

Blue = Defrost a/c valve vacuum actuator

White = Heater-a/c bi-level valve vacuum actuator. This is the mode actuator for air delivery to the vents in the dash.

Lt Green = Also connects to the actuator that white does. This one gets vacuum to move the mode door to heater air delivery.

Orange = Recirculating air valve actuator.

Send me your email address and ewhen I get home I'll send you this diagram. If you prefer a fax just advise the number.

Roger

Thanks Roger, that matches what I am seeing. Any idea how I might rig it activate the dash vents? Perhaps switching the green and white?

It looks like I would have to pull the whole unit to replace that bi-level acutator. I don't see how to remove it.

So if I have vacuum on the white tube should have a/c to dash? Green and white for heater, or just green?

My email is [redacted] I would like to figure out whether I have an actuator or programmer problem.

Harry

Can you access the connection of the white vacuum hose to the actuator? If so, with the system on disconnect the white vacuum line from the actuator and see if vacuum is being sent to the actuator.

If you have a hand vacuum pump try pulling a vacuum on the disconnected vacuum manifold White line at the programmer end to see if the actuator will operate the door to the a/c vents position.

If yes, the actuator is bad or the door it operates may have broken or become mechanically disconnected. If no the solenoid switch assembly has failed.

I believe the Lt Green gets vacuum when heat is required and the White gets nothing.
I have never swapped these two color positions on an actuator....try it! I'm willing to learn anytime.

I'll send the email within the hour. I'm miles from home at the moment....

Roger

The email is on the way. Hope it is helpful.

Roger

Thanks Roger, the diagram was very helpful. I think my problem is on the blue tube or defrost/panel vent actuator based on what the air is doing. I will check that tomorrow morning and see what is not working. I appreciate you sticking with it and I will let you know what I learn.

Harry

Great, I will look forward to your findings.

Thanks,

Roger

Roger,
Thanks for all your help and knowing what to do! The diagram was very helpful. There was no vacuum on the blue line so I moved the green line over to the panel/defrost actuator. I now have air out the panel vents and some on the floor, but that is not a problem. Defog will still send air to the windshield if I need to clear the glass. This arrangement should get me through the Texas summer, which usually lasts until December and then I can switch it back (if I still have the 13 year old car). It is not worth replacing the programmer for $100. Next time I need a mechanic, I know where to find a good one.
Again, many thanks!
Best Regards,
Harry

Thank you for your kind words. It is my pleasure to help you.

Ready to close this question? Please click on OK to finish up.

Roger

1994 Buick LeSabre Heating / Cooling System   

my buick does not blow very hot air even when car is hot.(110 f)i changed the thermostat with no improvement then i noticed that the a/c compresor and cooling fans were on even when the heater was on.the car does have auto climate control and when i set it to economy the compressor shuts off and the air gets hotter.

The first thing you want to check is that your heater core is not clogged up.
if you disconect the hoses outside of the heater core you should be able to run water in one side and out of the other to make sure it is clear.
your can disconnect the air control panel at your dash next to check that there is no binding of the cables and that there are no broken or dry rotted vacume hoses going to or coming from the control unit.

1994 Buick LeSabre Ignition System   

No start, does not crank; security light (orange coloured)flashes. Replaced ignition lock cylinder- discovered one (of the only two) wires were broke @ lock cylinder, however vehicle exhibits same condition. What am I missing, please?

Hello
I would start by checking all the fuses, wires to and from starter and battery.
Heavychevy

Just doing a follow up to check the progress of your lesabre.
Heavychevy

1994 Buick LeSabre Drive Train / Driveline   

Where are any speed sensors for the transaxle located on a 94 LeSabre with 3800 engine. Could a faulty speed sensor affect the standing idle speed? When I start it in the mornings, it runs high - probably around 2000 rpm. To bring it down to normal idle, 2 things have to happen: 1) it has to shift into second gear, and then 2) I have to bring it to a complete stop. It then idles down on its own. Thanks for any help.

The speed sensor located on the passenger side top of the transaxle generates a signal for the speedometer to operate and the transmission shift points. The cruise control uses this signal too.

The speed sensor does not factor at all with engine speed.

Has anyone checked for fuel deposits building up on the throttle body or throttle valve? Coking can give the idle speed control difficulty when it tries to get the engine at the specified idle speed.

Are you seeing the check engine light when the engine runs?

Roger

Hi Roger. I've thoroughly cleaned the throttle body. I also cleaned the MAF sensor. Besides performing a complete tune-up, I have r/r the following: CTS, IAC valve (O.E.M. A/C Delco), Oxygen Sensor (O.E.M. A/C Delco). I've looked - and have had another shade-tree mechanic friend, and one very reputable independent mechanic (a GM fan) look for anything that may be causing a vacuum leak, and none of us have been able to find the culprit. Thanks, Gary

Computers have an adaptive learning process to go through after the car battery is disconnected. Have you had it disconnected?

Roger

Yes, I have had the computer disconnected. The original computer had been replaced with an aftermarket part, and I figured that may have been part of, if not all of the problem. I just (this morning) installed a different one that I located on a salvaged and identical LeSabre. It actually runs smoother, and seems to perform better, but it has the same problem. Is there something I need to do to help this computer re-learn idle, etc.? Thanks

Adaptive learning takes place over a period of up to fifty miles driven. However, you state the problem persists. That bugs me. Has the car been fifty or so miles since the present computer was installed?

I'm not decided on what to suggest next just yet.

Roger

Hi Roger. I've driven it about 40 miles since replacing the computer. It continues the same behavior. Engine races at start-up, I allow to run for about 20 seconds, then place in reverse, and back out of the driveway before placing in drive. If I come to a stop while the vehicle is in 1st, engine continues to race. Once it shifts into second, and is brought to a COMPLETE stop, it idles down to normal idle speed within 4 seconds, and then behaves just fine the rest of the trip. However, the next time I start it - cold or not - it repeats the same behavior. I found the following advice on-line. Would you mind looking it over, and tell me if it may be worth considering, and then trying? "First, remove both battery cables, short both positive and negative cables together without connected to the battery for 10 seconds." "Then, reconnect the battery. Start the engine and run until it gets to normal operating temperature." Turn off the engine for at least 20 seconds, then restart. Allow to idle, then put in drive without a/c or heater on, and leave it idling in drive for 1 minute." then, "After 1 minute, leave idling in Drive and switch the a/c to on. Leave a/c on while in Drive for 1 minute." then "After 1 minute, turn off engine, wait at least 20 seconds, then restart engine." and last comments: "These steps may well cure idle surge, intermittent excessive idle." The thing I don't get about all this is that the engine is already racing as soon as I start it, so it never really has a chance to truly idle if I went through all the steps. Maybe if I disconnect and reconnect the computer before doing all of the above? Signed, dazed and confused. (Gary)

Has anyone stated their source for this info about touching disconnected battery cables together for ten seconds? I have not done this (ever) in my thirty years dealership experience.

What is suggested here is that the computer retains a residual memory that is not erased by the lone act of disconnecting the battery. This is true of Cadillacs and Ford products.

So let's try a safer way of wiping out any ghost memory that I don't remember doing anything for when I was a Buick technician and your car was new.

Start and warm up the engine then shut it off. Disconnect the car battery negative cable for 30 seconds or more. Leave it disconnected. Sit in the car and hold the foot brake down for a full clock minute. (This should deplete any memory not erased by the battery disconnect alone.)

Reconnect the battery. Next resume the instructions you found:

Restart. Allow to idle, then put in drive without a/c or heater on, and leave it idling in drive for 1 minute." then, "After 1 minute, leave idling in Drive and switch the a/c to on. Leave a/c on while in Drive for 1 minute." then "After 1 minute, turn off engine, wait at least 20 seconds, then restart engine.

Tell me what the results are.

Roger

I followed the steps as carefully as possible (not using the "grounding the pos/neg ends of the cables together). I disconnected the battery, applied pressure to brake pedal for 1 minute, reconnected the cable, re-started, shifted to drive, held one minute, then turned a/c on, and held for another minute, then shut off. I thought it was working during the first minute without the a/c on, because after about 25 seconds, the engine backed down from the same high idle to a normal idle, and stayed that way even after the a/c was turned on. I then put it in park (should I have left it in drive?), and switched the engine off. I waited about 30 seconds, then re-started. It went crazy again. I thought maybe I had made a mistake when I placed in park before shutting down, so repeated whole procedure, except left it in drive when switching off. The disturbing thing is that the idle never did normalize like it did the first time around. One thing I failed to mention in my earlier e-mail that I probably should have: when I removed the aftermarket computer, and installed the GM computer, the car started at a barely elevated idle (like I've noticed with other GM's I've owned), then normalized to a low idle within 10-15 seconds. I thought the factory computer had solved the problem, and I was feeling pretty proud. Then, the next morning, it was the same song, different verse. Well, anyway, I appreciate you hanging in with me on this. For what it's worth, I'm on a school teacher's salary, and have one of my children in college, so your time and efforts are greatly appreciated, even if we're unable to solve this problem.

I'll ask around and see if I find other ideas or suggestions to pass along.

I'll be back,

Roger

1994 Buick LeSabre Fuel System   

I am not getting electricity from the wire that supplies electricity to the fuel injector. Have checked it with a "noid light tester". What feeds electricity to the fuel injector wires? How do I fix it?

Hello, All six fuel injectors are powered by fuse #7 (10 amp) located in the Relay Center when the key is in the ON position.

Is this fuse good?

Roger

Where is this relay center?

Look on the right front kick panel and under the right side of the dash.

Roger

We are looking now. May take a minute.... or two.

No rush here. Take the time you need.

Roger

What we found is a 20 amp fuse & it is good.

A 20 amp fuse in the fuse #7 slot is not what we need even if it is a good fuse.....it is the wrong size and should be replaced with a 10 amp fuse.

Just in case there is uncertainty as to which fuse is #7 please turn the key ON and check all of the Red Color 10 amp fuses for a bad one.

Roger

OK, will do. So far as I know, these are the original fuses that came with the car. Maybe we are not looking at #7. Checking things out now as you advised to do.

Do you have a legend for this panel? An Owner's Manual would have one.

Roger

Don't have a legend. Owner's manual specifically says there are fuses located there and if these require service, see your Buick dealer. Big help there. We do have a legend for fuses on the left side of the car below the dash by the steering wheel. The fuses we checked on the right side are all good.

Let me look for a legend for this panel.

Roger

Thank you.

Still looking for something we can use. I'm surprised this one is hard to find.

Are you testing the fuses in question with a meter, a 12 volt test light, or visually? It's one thing for a fuse to appear in perfect condition but we need to know if the fuse is getting power from the ignition switch when it is turned to the ON position.

Roger

Visual test. Will now check again, this time with a 12 volt test light.

All fuses on the right hand side test good. On the left hand side fuse panel, slot 1A,2A,2B,2C,2D,4A: no power to slot, but fuse is good.

It's after 11PM where I am. I'm going to bed! Can we pick this up again tomorrow, please?

Okay, let me look at that. 1A (10 amp) is SIR DERM/Crank. (1A will only have power when the key is in the START position.) 2A,2B,2C,2D are all spare fuses. 4A (10 amp) is Interior Illumination.

If all fuses in the relay panel on the right side under the dash are good with the key on, look under the hood and find the fuel injector harness connector that connects to the engine wiring harness. Disconnect it and with the key in the ON position test for power on the harness side of the connector with a test light. Is power getting this far? Inspect the terminals for condition and good tight fit when plugged in.

Roger

Bedtime here. I'll check on you tomorrow.

Roger

Good morning, any news here?

Roger

the wires feeding the injectors run to the fire wall where they cross thrue the wall with other wires at a sort of a box

Thank you. Have you tested the Pink wire at more than one fuel injector connector? Are all dead to voltage with the key on?

Roger

I checked three injector connectors with a noid light those three where dead

Please check any fuel injector connector Pink wire for 12 Volts with connector disconnected and the key on. I use a grounded test light for this test.

Roger

I found the test light came on at every pink wire on the injector caps when disconnected and the key on

Great! Does the engine have spark when cranked? If not, the crankshaft position sensor is suspect.

The reason your noid light remains off while the engine cranks is the computer doesn't know the engine is cranking and is not pulsing ground for the injectors to fire.

Roger

we do have spark on all the plugs they are new

Okay, we know without doubt that all fuses are good. We have spark. Crankshaft position sensor must be working to give the PCM the signal needed.

This leaves replacing the PCM as the drivers that fire the injector ground path have failed.

You didn't cut corners on testing so a computer should fix this one.

Roger

where is the pcm and what should I do now?

It is an aluminum colored metal box mounted vertically under the right side of the dash close to the right kick panel area.

With the key in the OFF position remove one nut (that retains the computer) with a 10mm socket on a ratchet. Lower the computer from the mount bracket and disconnect the electrical connectors.

Take it with you when you go to a parts store and purchase a remanufactured computer that fits your car. BEFORE you leave the store open the computer right on the counter and read the replacement instructions to determine if anything needs to be transferred from the old computer to the new one.

Follow instructions on the spot as if you leave..... your old computer might have been sent to a repair facillity before you realize a part was supposed to be changed out before you surrender your old computer to avoid core charges.

Assembly is reverse order of removal.

Please call your parts store to be sure they have your computer available for purchase before you go shopping.

Roger

That worked good job Thank you!

To close this question please click on OK to finish up.

I thank you,

Roger

1993 Buick LeSabre Heating / Cooling System Malfunction When stopped 

My husband is trying to replace the relay switch in my buick and he cannot seem to locate where it is in this vehicle. He has changed them out in our other vehicles but he said it is not located in the same place. Can you please help me and tell me where it would be. We ordered a chilton book on the lasabre and it is not located in that either

There is a relay block on the firewall. Is the relay he is looking for here?

No, he looked on the firewall and its not one of them.

What relay is he looking for? And what is the problem you are experiencing?

When you shut the car off the blower for the air conditioner keeps running so he bought a relay for the blower motor and looked on the firewall and cannot find where the part goes.

It should be mounted in the relay block on the firewall. Have him unplug them one at time until the blower turns off. Make sure to do this with the key off. Find it? Let me know.

he already did that and the fan kept running, he also unplugged the whole controller for the a/c and the fan kept running...

Is the blower running on high speed? And to be sure we are on the same page, when I say blower I'm referring to the fan that blows heat or a/c into the cabin.
Also has there been any work done to the car recently. IE- Installation of remote starter, alarm, etc.

Yes it is running on high speed and yes we are on the same page with the blower into the cabin and no there has not been any work done recently...LOL This is worth more than $5.00 if we can get the problem resolved...

Sorry for the delay. Email me and I'll send some information that hopefully will help you solve the problem.

Forgot to leave email...
[redacted]

1993 Buick LeSabre Fuel System Chugging When driving When warm 

car seems to run rough when decelerating from fifty MPH or going up a hill at less than 50 MPH

When was the last tune-up, new plug wires and spark plugs. Also closely inspect the coils for cracks in the housing and corrosion in the towers.

BTW- This is clearly engine problem, and not the common transmission shudder these cars are known for?


Does the check engine light come on while the engine is running? If it does check trouble codes, instructions found under emmissios at the site listed below.

http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=viewRepairGuideYMMEYear

It just had plugs and wires changed less then a week ago.
I will do as you suggest concerning the coils. I neglected to add...When the gas tank level gets between one half and one quarter, the engine begins to stall. Could this be related?

Thanks for your help
Jack O'Connor

Only between one half and one quarter? Under what conditions does the engine stall-

At cruising (or any speed)?

When idling or stopped at an intersection?

Etc?

The stalling only occures when I'm rounding a curve, turning at an intersection or come to quick stop. However if I do all the above at a crawl, then it doesn't stall.
Regards
Jack O'Connor

If the problem only occurs at idle rpm's look at the idle speed motor. Try cleaning its pintle and passageway, along with the throttle body and blade. Let me know, if this is may apply. If not I have something else to try.

Does the check engine light ever come on while the engine is running?

I will check the things you mentioned. The check engine light never comes on

Okay, let me know.

1993 Buick LeSabre Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

93 buick lasaber driver side brack caliper no releasing what could be the problem. at first i replaced the pads, thinking it was the aparent problem, then i replaced the caliper and the problem is still thier. what could be the problem, i'm very puzzeled!!!

First, I usually replace calipers im Pairs, both left and right.
Sometimes the problem is not the caliper but the hose. The Brake hose looks about 1/2" diameter, but the inside passage is only about 1/8" dia. As the hose is comprised of many layers, it sometimes cracks on the inside lining. This causes a sort of 'flapper' or one way check valve.
The fluid passes one way only.
This is a fairly common problem, by the way.
So you require a hose.
I usually replace calipers and hoses on both sides at the same time unless I am on a tight budget.The reason is that both brakes are used equally and wear similar.
Usually when one only is replaced, the other caliper fails soon after!

1992 Buick LeSabre Heating / Cooling System  Happens always Always

car has auto climate control and auto fan. as an example, when outside temp is 65 and i set climate control to auto I can set desired temp to 74 and auto fan is still blowing cool air at close to highest speed...too cold in car. Is there a way to recalibrate thermostat?

5-12-03.
Hello,
See if the in-car temperature sensor inlet is restricted. If it's clear, you may need a new sensor as it has a motor to cause air to be drawn across the sensor for the systems comparison of what is, vs., what the driver has set on the controls.

The sensor will be a 'GM Dealer' part.

Roger

where is the in car temp sensor located?

5-12-03.
Usually on the facia of the dash verticle surface to the right of the steering column. Some have a small cluster of holes like a salt shaker, others have a slot along the bottom of a trim moulding thats tough to see without a brite flashlight. Lint built up in the opening will have a gray color like common fuzz.

Roger

Roger

1992 Buick LeSabre Engine Leaking When stopped 

I had a used engine installed and the valve cover begin leaking oil. I replaced the valve cover gasket but the mechanic discovered that the breather pipe on top of the cover was pressed closed. What type of issue does this present. Horace Jackson

Hi;
Due to the tube been closed. It will cause the pcv valve to suck the oil out of the engine instead of the vapors tha it is suppose to. The breather pipe let's air into the crankcase so that the pvc valve can suck the vapors out of the crankcase. Good Luck Les.

What problem(s) does this present for my engine?

Hello,

I've re-opened this question at the customer's request.

Mark,
Site Admin.

OK

1992 Buick LeSabre Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start Happens always 

Lesabre would not start. Had the car towed to the dealership. Their description of the problem and the fix. 106540 module has code 3 stored internal R2975 6c .3 +1.5OLH+ 1.8 test and replace theft deterrent module. Replace old module with a new module. car would not work. car still in theft mode. followed diag chart for theft system. checked all circuits. powers and ground to and from pcm and theft module and vats lock cylinder. pcm is new. using vats lock diag box it was determined that the new vats theft deterrent module has key code #3 stored in box but the keys for this car are #14. replace with another module and all system work good. car starts and no codes set 161.
The car ran for about a month or two and no more than 1000 miles and died while on the interstate. The car acts like it wants to start but just doesnt start. Almost like as if the fuel filter is clogged. But car had fairly new filter. These are the same symptoms as the first time and i dont have another 1G to pay for another repair. Sorry to be so long but it was the only way i could describe it to you guys.

Your help would be greatly appreciated.

Okay, sounds like a challenge.

The first thing I want you to do is check trouble codes. If you need instructions on checking diagnostic trouble codes visit autozone.com and use their Vehicle Repair Guides to find instructions. After you register your car the instructions can be found under Emissions Controls title of the repair guide.

Ok, I tried to do the diag code test but the "service engine soon" light would not blink, therefore I no codes.

Did you use a light to make sure you were connecting a jumper wire (paper clip is ideal) to the terminals labeled A & B?

yes i grounded the A and B, like i said the service engine soon light came on but didnt blink. According to the directions its suppose to blink inorder to recieve the codes.

Strange that the light would not blink, if it's a 92 it should have terminals in the A and B slots than can be connected to make the engine light flash.

At this point you should spray a small amount of carburetor cleaner in the throttle body and try to start the engine. If the engine will start momentarily and stall you have have isolated it to a fuel problem.

Without any more information to go on, I'd guess a possible problem with (what I believe GM calls) the Fuel Enable Relay. This is likely only available at the dealer.

1992 Buick LeSabre Ignition System Won't Start When starting Always

I replaced the starter because the chasie for the motor starter crack and now the car does not start at all.

Do you mean the 'case' for starter motor cracked?
Unusual, what size motor? Can you turn the engine over by hand, either by moving the flywheel teeth or the engine pulleys?

Yes, the starter motor did cracked and I was able to turn the motor thru the pulleys. The Fly Wheel lost a teeth.

The flywheel MUST be replaced, as the missing teeth will put undue strain on the starter.If the engine stops with the missing teeth in line with the starter, the engine might not start, because the starter will just spin, without engaging.
A flywheel is fairly cheap, especially if you buy a used one but the labor will be high as transmission will have to be removed.
I recommend changing the engine rear main seal, when flywheel is off, even if it is not leaking, as it is a cheap seal and it would be a shame if you left the old one in, and it started leaking in 5-6 months...

1992 Buick LeSabre Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start When starting Always

1992 buick lesabre. Went to move the car last night
almost completely dead.... gave the car a qiuck charge and it started right up. I drove it for 20 minutes and let it run for over an hour. all gauges were normal and lights were bright. Went to car this am and it was completely dead.When i opened the door there were no lights but i could hear a clicking from passenger side dash area. Gave a quick charge again and it started right up ???

Hello, Jump starting a car and then driving it will produce only a "surface" charge on the battery. There is no depth to the charge that speaks to replenishing the battery's reserve capacity. Parasitic drain (computer, clock, radio memory) on the battery will swiftly deplete a surface charge.

Your battery may not be getting the charge it needs if most of the times driven are short trips.

Try charging the battery at 40 - 50 amps for thirty minutes (called a shock charge) followed by up to 24 hours at 10 amps. Then perform a load test on the battery to check it's reserve capacity.

If a battery charger capable of 40 - 50 amp charging rate is not a tool you own you may wish to have the battery and the alternator tested at a local auto shop or auto parts national chain store.

Do you have a digital multi-meter with a DC milliamp range setting? The car should be tested for the amount of parasitic drain on the battery while the car is not in use.

How would you like to proceed?

Roger

Hi, Any news here? Just checking in with you...

Roger

1991 Buick LeSabre Ignition System Won't Start Happens always Always

original problem driving down the road and the car just shut itself off and will not restsrt has gas and fuel pump appears to be ok

Hello, Can you check for codes? (I know the check engine light is on with key on and engine off) If no codes, most often the Ignition Control Module (ICM) is at fault. The ignition coils are bolted to this module.

One other possibility is the crankshaft position sensor.

If you do get codes diagnose them first. If not, it has been my experience the above suggestions will restore spark.

Roger

have replaced the coil pack assy what is next

Are you saying you have replaced all the coils and the module (ICM) too?

Roger

1990 Buick LeSabre Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens always 

My circulation fan runs all the time whether the car's iginition is on or off. I've pulled all the fuses located to the left of the steering wheel and behind the glove box and it still runs. I'm looking for the fuse as well as the relay that might be stuck on causing this problem.

The relay has voltage present at all times. The 'hot' red supply wire uses a fusible link instead of a fuse.
The relay is located on the firewall, passenger side. There should be several relays mounted next to each other.If you go to partsamerica.com there is a picture of the relay. Just enter your vehicle information and look under relays. The relay has a red, darkblue/white, orange, and purple wires. The purple wire is the one that goes to the blower motor. Remember the relay has constant voltage, so no fuse will turn the blower off if the relay is stuck on. If you need to turn the blower off, do so by unplugging the blower motor itself. Or unplug the relay.

I found a bank of 4 relays to the right and behind the glove box. I pulled each of those 4 relays and the fan still ran. I couldn't see any wire colors as the relays were on a block that would hold probably 8 or 9 relays. Is this the right place for that relay or am I looking in the wrong place?

Thanks

The relay will be under the hood.

1990 Buick LeSabre Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

computer wiring color code

Hello, Do you have a fax number? Will a fax cover sheet be needed?

Please advise,

Roger

I have a service soon light stays on always code 41 there is no problem I want to cut wire that goes to it from my computer I need to know what colour wire that is. I did not get answer.

OK, code 41. Are you aware that cutting the wire will not extinguish the service engine soon light? A cut wire is read by the computer as an open circuit and the SES light will come on.

I asked if you had a fax number and if a cover sheet for the fax would be needed? The best way to relay the wiring schematic to you is to fax the schematic.

Would you like info on code 41?

Roger

1990 Buick LeSabre Ignition System   

I have a 1990 Buick Lesabre that has been an excellent car and still is. This summer the check engine light came on with a code 41, cam sensor circuit. I replaced the cam sensor and thought the problem would be fixed. It seemed fine, but I realized the problem was still there. I cleared the computer code and it immediately reappeared. I consulted a mechanic and was given the advice it must be the crankshaft sensor as it is part the the cam circuitry. I then replaced it and found no improvement. All thoughout this process the driveablity of the vechicle was deteriating even more. I finally quite me and had to be towed as it was backfiring and misfiring. Now the car is with a mechanic. He tested the car and found the magnet in the cam shaft gear had fallen out. He replaced it determined the electronic ignition module (under the coil pack) was the problem. I took it home and replaced it with no improvement. I have it back with the mechanic now and he had run the GM trouble tree on it over and over. His tests keep telling him it is a faulty ignition module but yesterday I had him take the one off an bought a new one even though the one I removed was tested good by the auto parts store technician. He says he's checked all the wiring by doing the recommended ohms test on the wires and all appears good. We keep wondering why the module does not appear to by receiving a signal from the cam sensor. When the cam sensor is unhooked there is no difference in how the car behaves. Please help as this is the third car in a three driver household and its getting really difficult to do the 3-driver 2-car shuffle! Thanks for your help.

Hello, Has anyone carefully inspected the condition of the terminals in the connectors for the ignition control module and the sensors? If distorted, there may be a poor connection resulting in poor performance.

Checking continuity for the full length of the sensor circuits will confirm circuits are okay.

Look carefully at the ground wire connection that bolts to the engine underneath the mount for the ignition control module and coils. Sometimes the serpentine belt damages the ground wire. It may take a mirror to see this connection.

Roger

Thank you for the information. I will relay this to my mechanic and see if this helps. If there are any more "school of hard knox" ideas, I'm all ears to hear them.

Let's see what he says. Ask if this car has three seperate ignition coils, or one coil pack that fires the spark plugs. If three seperate coils what is the ohm reading between the two spark plug wire terminals of each coil? How do the readings compare to each of the other coils?

Roger

It has one coil pack, not three separate ones. It was replaced in March of this year. In the past, when the coil pack failed the car simply didn't fire at all. Please let me know what specific tests should be done to coil pack to determine if it is a contributing cause to the problem I know have.

I'm going to a Buick dealership this week to get a shop manual. I hope to send you information to compare to the trouble tree your mechanic is using.

Roger

Thank you for offering alternative trouble tree information. At this point any fresh information and/or alternatives are appreciated. Looking forward to hearing back from you.

Today I obtained several pages right out of the Buick Shop Manual. Too much to type.

Do you have a fax number I can send this to? Will a cover sheet be needed?

Please advise,

Roger

I will need to have the fax sent to an office/copy store. I will find the proper fax number and related information an send it to you tommorrow. A cover sheet will be needed when you send the information.

Thanks for the continued help.

If you prefer I believe I now can scan the pages to email and save you money.

I'd need your email address and be happy to try it this way if your email account will allow it.

Roger

My e-mail address is [redacted] . I'm looking forward to receiving your information. Thanks again for your help.

I will scan and send you eleven pages of information copied directly from the 1990 Buick Shop Manual for your review.

Roger

Thanks for the information. On the seventh page there is a note under diagnosis indicating if either a code 41 or 42 is set then the appropriate code chart should be used for diagnosis. The vehicle is setting a "hard" code 41. Is there any revised information on the code 41 trouble tree or related diagnostic information you could send to me to assist my mechanic?

I don't know of any revision to the trouble tree for code 41.....is your mechanic using a GM published chart or a different one?

I'll see if my dealer will let me copy the 41 code chart and send it along.

Roger

He says he is using the official GM trouble tree for code 41. If you can obtain a copy for my reference and to compare with his it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

I will try to get the chart this afternoon when I am in town. The service dept is open today.

Roger

I sent the Buick Shop Manual Code 41 Trouble Chart via email.

Roger

Thanks for the information. I'll be seing my mechanic tommorrow.

Lets hope for a good report.

Roger

I spent several hours at my mechanic's shop testing the wiring harness for any possible shorts or breaks in continuity. I found none. My mechanic and I also tested to se if the ECM was receiving constant good power and it is. He also did a "varying", (alternating) voltage test on the "C5" terminal of the connection to the computer. Found varying power reading on his voltage meter and mine indicating the signals from the cam sensor are being received. He was going to do a scope test today to analize the pattern of the signals from the cam and crank sensors. I is now leaning toward replacing the ECM if the scope tests prove OK. I am interested in your thoughts as this vehicle really needs to get back in service. My wife and son are getting really tired of sharing wheels this summer. As an electrician, my efforts yesterday were simply as desperate move to help my mechanic solve this problem and put us "back on the road again."

I agree that if the wiring continuity checks, the condition of the wire terminals and connectors, even the voltages and resistance checks present no defects, the PCM has to be suspect. It must not be processing the data to a no fault conclussion/result.

A rebuilt guarnteed PCM can be bought at a national chain auto parts store for about $100 exchange. I admit I would want to try replacing the PCM. I could get caught crossing my fingers.....:)

Roger

Thanks for your response. I will know more tomorrow afternoon as to the outcome of the scope tests. Maybe we're finally going in the right direction toward a solution to the problem.

This one has been a battle. I pray for good results.

Roger

I worked a long day as an electrician today and did not get to talk to my mechanic. I will see him in the morning to find out the latest information on the scope and compression tests he said was next on the list after Monday's wiring harness and computer power checks. Will have more information for your soon. My wife says we need to pray for the car and anoint it with oil before installing the new computer if that ends up being the next course of action.

Are you back in this one yet?

Roger

I went by and met with the my mechanic yesterday. He was going to do a compression test to verify the timing is correct. He says he really doesn't think there's a problem with the timing as the car has run since the camshaft magnet was installed, but he is going to test just to be safe. He was going to order a computer yesterday and hopes to have us back in this car tommorrow or Thursday. Thanks for checking up on the status of this situation. Hopefully good news will follow later this week!

I'm pulling for you.

Roger

Wanted you to know we finally got the old 1990 Buick LeSabre running. After all the diagnostics and research if turned out the new PCM did not fix the problem. Car still did not start. I worked with the mechanic to disassemble the timing cover, etc. to verify the cam and crank timing was correct and found out it was. After careful scrutiny of the harmonic balancer I suggested a new one as there appeared to be a bend or dent in the "timing slots" on the back side. Replaced the balancer and put on a new crank sensor, reassembled everything, cranked it over and it started, ran, and is still running. The only problem is the code 41 still sets leaving the check engine light on. He put the old PCM back in so he says there might still be a slight problem with the PCM, but it starts, idles, runs, and performs so the light may just have to stay on permanently.

Thanks for all your patience and help in this long, drawn-out process of searching for a solution to the problem.

Sincerely,

Curtis

I'm glad to have had a part in this process. To close the question please click on OK to finish up.

I thank you,

Roger

1990 Buick LeSabre All Part Groups   

I just bought the car and occasionally it won't start, the starter just turns and it doesn't fire up. So a mechanic hooked it up to his code reader and it said it had a bad camshaft sensor, which i changed and did not have any problems for a week or so. Last night it wouldn't start again. Please help i do not have any money and can not afford to take it to the shop.

Hello, After changing the camshaft sensor has the check engine light come back on while driving?

Have you checked for spark and fuel pressure when it won't start?

Roger

How do i check these things. Usually it won't start at work at midnight and my friend usually does the work, but only if it is explained to her.

Does the check engine light come on while driving?

To check for spark remove a spark plug wire from a spark plug and hold the wire near the spark plug. Use a thick rag or insulated tool to hold the wire because the spark if present is high voltage.

With the plug wire held close to the spark plug have someone try to start the engine. Spark (if present) will jump from the wire to the spark plug. At night you'll hear and see the spark. If you have spark but the engine won't start we'll need to consider fuel supply and pressure.

Roger

1989 Buick LeSabre Drive Train / Driveline   

automatic transmission car hesitated at stops then jumped into gear; adjusting brake pedal action appeared to affect this "hesitation" for a couple wks; then car "seized"...could only go in reverse; for past 1 year, instrument panel lite indicated brake on when brake not engaged; brake fluid appears 1/2 down

Sounds like you have a transaxle problem!
And a brake (seized on?) problem!
Try jacking up eack corner and see if tire rotates, trying to isolate the seized brake.
Once the brake is repaired, see if transmission still works.
It might be only working in reverse, because the mechanical advantage required to move the car is grater in reverse (different gears) or , the transaxle might have quit.
Brake fluid 1/2 down is common when pads are worn.

1988 Buick LeSabre Engine Malfunction When troubleshooting 

I had a bad camshaft sensor. So I put a new timing gear, camshaft and crankshaft sensor in. Now the car engine just rotate. It's like it's is not fireing or getting any gas.

I would assume that something went wrong with the timing component installation. Were the timing marks on the cam and crank aligned with each other? Was the magnet in place on the rear of the cam gear? Is the crank sensor plugged in and not damaged by the balance pulley? Of course the crank pulley must be installed for the engine to run. Are there any codes on the computer? Do you have spark? I believe you will find the answer in checking these items.
Dale

The timing marks were alined and the sensors were plug in. Where would you suggest I check for spark?
I did pull one of the plugs and it was wet with gas.
I was thinking something got wet in one of the connection.

Remove a spark plug wire and insert a screwdriver. Lay this in such a way on the engine so that the metal of the scredriver does not touch the engine, but is laying about 1/2 inch from the nearest grounded metal surface. Crank the engine and see if a spark jumps from the screwdriver metal to the engine. IT SHOULD, or there is a problem on the ignition system.
Dale

I have checked all connections and I disconnected a spark plug wire and turn the engine over. I did not get a spark. Is there anything else I need to do to try to get the car started?

If there is no spark, then there is likely a bad crank sensor, ignition module, or blown fuse. Disconnect the crank sensor and use a digital voltmeter to check for 10V on one of the wires. If you have 10V, the fuses are good and your problem is likely the crank sensor or module.
Dale

THE CRANK SENSOR IS NEW BUT I HAVEN'T CHECKED THE VOLTS YET. IS THERE ANY WAY TO CHECK THE IGNITION MODULE BEFORE BUYING ONE?..

There is a way to check it, but it is quite detailed to write here. A Chilton manual should show all the details. MAKE SURE THE CRANK SENSOR IS NOT DAMAGED! If the sensor is slightly out of line, the teeth will hit it and ruin it.
Dale

I have checked the sensor and there are 10 volts comming to it. The sensor is new and undamaged. What should I do next?

Use a scanner to see if there is an RPM signal to the computer. If not, did you get the right crank sensor. There are 2 for that year! Try installing the old one! Or you can scope the 2 blue wires between the crank sensor and the module. If there is a good signal on both, check for pulse at the injectors. If none, supect either crank sensor or module. Can you hear the fuel pump run after the key is on for 20 seconds and the car is cranked briefly? If not, suspect the crank sensor or module. If the pump runs after the car is cranked, suspect module. Are the wires to the crank sensor good? A brokne or pinched wire will shut this car down. I had an Isuzu with a broken crank sensor wire last night that would not start. Best wishes!
Dale

1987 Buick LeSabre Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I am trying to find fuse identifications; also trying to replace bulbs behind climate controls. Thanks

Your best bet is to go and get a manual for your car. A Haynes, or a Chilton's manual for the car will do just fine. A dealer MIGHT let you borrow the information that you need.

1987 Buick LeSabre Engine Stalling When driving When warm 

have changed module fuel, pressure regulator, fuel pump,and still the engine dies after 30 to 50 min.also put on a snap on code reader and scaner no codes present, on the field service test the system tells me that its in limp home mode. what does this mean? which should i check next cranksensor or coils.

Start by checking for spark to the spark plugs. If you are losing spark, listen to see if the fuel pump is running during initial key on and engine cranking. Then start by checking the crank sensor first.

Dieing after warm up usually indicates the ignition module or crank sensor.