Buick Park Avenue

2005 Buick Park Avenue Heating / Cooling System   

In hot season AC climate control does not open vents so no cold air enters the car. Compressor is new and working. In cold season heater vents open and warm air enters the car. The climate control system malfunctions off and on. Sometimes it stats working after 5 or 10 minutes of auto driving.

If the compressor is working, as well as the heater when commanded on, you will need to have the car scanned with a professional scanner capable of reading GM body codes. It shouldn't take long for a qualified tech to diagnose the problem, then you can shop around for replacement parts.

Is your warranty expired?

I was cut off in the first reply.
Do you have any idea what theproblem could be?

The control head (the part that contains the switches/selectors/etc) has been troublesome. GM products have also had wiring problems under the dash that causes a variety of problems.

Call your dealer and ask if there is a flash update that address's the problem. A flash update is used when the car maker discovers a flaw in computer that can be reprogammed to fix the problem. If this problem was present when the vehicle was under warranty, it should still be covered. Be sure to document the problem for warranty claims.

2002 Buick Park Avenue Engine   

Sudden appearance of rough idle on 2002 Buick Pk Av 3.8 v6 with only 43k miles. Not starting well without pressing accel pedel. Instantly smooths out above 1000 rpm and drives fine.Please advise diagnostics/parts to check 1st. Need to know more before locals replace every part or module they can. thanks,

Hello, Not many miles on this car. Is it driven any distance when warmed up or are most trips fairly short?

I would want to flush the injectors with chemical first. Addatives to the fuel tank won't do much at this stage as I'd expect the injectors are sticky with fuel deposit build up

Roger

Hi, Thanks for your speedy reply. I am running 2nd tankful with injector cleaner additive and will remove injectors for individual clean as you suggest, but, it ran fine then just started rough idle. If not injectors which part or sensor might be next in your opinion. Thanks

The flushing of the injectors that I have in mind is done professionally by substituting a powerful flushing chemical for gasoline. I do not expect the addative you are using in the fuel will do the trick.

In the shop we disable the fuel pump and tap onto the fuel rail where the fuel pressure shrader valve is. We use compressed air to pressurize the chemical just as a fuel pump would.

If not injectors I'd be looking at a vacuum leak or a spark plug wire.

Roger

2001 Buick Park Avenue Ignition System   

Recently I had the battery changed in my car and since then I have had problems with my car not starting, could be coincidence. Often it starts fine and runs fine, other times when I turn the key, nothing happens, no sound, nothing. If I keep trying it will eventually start. I had it at a service center and they could not replicate the "not starting" and said their diagnostics could not find anything wrong. What could be wrong or going wrong?

Hello,

Do you get any dash warning lights when the car will not start?

Are you using the same key as before? A defective, dirty or worn key can cause this.

Another thing not to overlook is the battery terminals and cables. These vehicles are prone to failure here.

No I did not get any dash warning lights. The battery and cables are fine. I do not recall seeing the security light flashing when the car will not start, but cannot be sure this is the case at all times. I had thought of something with the key or its chip as I have been using same key for quite some time.

You may have a bad ignition switch. The bad bad battery cables and terminals will usually provide enough current for the dash warning lights to come on (sometimes flaky) but not enough to start.

A bad key will prevent the engine from starting (security) but will not shut down all dash lights.

Will the headlights come on when it won't start?

Yes, I have all lights and when I said dash lights do not come on, all dash lights are on, but possibly the "security" light was not flashing when I opened the car door. I believe the issue may be the security system and my key and I thank you for your comments.

2000 Buick Park Avenue Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

My engine oil light stays on but no "bong bong" alarm sound. Also, the digital engine oil pressure shows "????" rather than say 65 psi. The engine has plenty of oil and runs at normal temps.

It sounds like the oil pressure sending unit is defective or unplugged. If not, a GM (capable) scanner will be needed to diagnose the problem.

I changed the oil sending unit today but no change. GM gets $70 to run the diagnostics. Then, it's around $70 an hour to trace the issue down. Could cost me easily several hunderd dollars for a little light. I was hoping you might know a trick whereby I could shake things loose.

About all you could try is tracing the wires for rub-through damage and disconnecting the negative battery cable for a couple minutes to reset everything.

One thing I always should add is to never overlook fuses when you have an electrical problem.

2000 Buick Park Avenue Heating / Cooling System   

the external air temp displayed on the climate control display is all over the map from 0 to 110 degrees....then the whold heat system goes off...can restart heat but it will just go off again...is this due to the external air sensor.and if so where is it located?

Hi, The outside air temperature sensor is mounted in front of the radiator behind the car's grill. Usually has one bolt, one electrical connector and is flat black in color.

If your heat/air blower motor just quits for no predictable reason your car probably needs a power module for the blower motor.

Roger

if the external temperature displayed is wildly fluctuating, is this also attributed to the blower control. if it is where is this located and we are finished...i have some doubt that this particular problem is a blower control problem...the heating system behaves as if you pushed the off button. you can immediately restart by pressing on button. I defer to your best judgment.

That year Buick has a problem with the control switch module/display on the dash.

thank you

1999 Buick Park Avenue Engine   

Engine stutters, sounds and feels like atleast one piston is not firing. Fuel injector cleaner helps for a short while. Recently changed spark plugs and wires and helped for a little while but over time got bad again. Negative battery terminal requires tightening every couple months, but no change in performance.

Hello, Have you checked the car for codes? Are there codes stored? No?

A temporary reprieve using just a fuel injector cleaner addative to the fuel should tell you that electrically the plugs and wires are likely not the fault.

I recommend a professional flush of the fuel injectors by a repair shop.

What's up with the tightening of the negative battery cable?? That is not expected to be necessary.

Roger

I have not gotten the code checked out, but i will do that soon. Could it be the fuel pressure regulator or ignition coils?

I doubt it is the fuel pressure regulator or the ignition coils as you said you can get temporary improvement using a fuel injector cleaner.

Do you have a digital multi-meter? Unplug the two wires on a single coil and take an OHM reading from one of the wire towers to the other. Plug the wires back onto the coil and move to the next coil and do the same test.

When you have tested all three coils in this manner compare the readings. Are they similar?

Did you see a coil tower terminal that was very different in appearance to the others? Corrosion? Burned? Replace such a coil if you find one and take a good look at the plug wire terminal that connects to the discolored/corroded coil terminal.

Roger

Will do. ignition coil terminal 4 is corroded so i will replace it, if i still have problems i will get my hands on a multimeter and do what you said. Thanks for your time.

fero

That's a great start. Please examine the plug wire too.

Roger

1998 Buick Park Avenue Engine   

I have a 1998 Buick Park ave. It sounds like a loud clacking noise coming from the engeine,like someone is inside the engine with a hammer. i hear it with the drive belt off and on , i hear it at idle , it gets louder on acceleration,low power, and stalling, please help!

Hello, Does the sound seem to come from one bank of cylinders as opposed to the other? Sounds high in the engine (near the top)?

There is a good possibility that a push rod has pierced through a valve rocker arm.

Roger

sounds like its coming from the middle of the engine, i did remove the valve covers to see, everything looked ok.i can hear it from the bottom as well.

Does the sound have a double knock? That could be a rod. A heavy knock on light acceleration is often a main bearing.

Since you are satisfied the rocker arms look good it's probably time to drop the pan for a look. There may be evidence in the pan that will direct your next move.

Roger

1997 Buick Park Avenue Electrical / Lighting Systems   

While driving the engine will die for no obvious reason. It always has restarted, often while still rolling, without turning the key, spontaniously. Sometimes I have to stop, crank it a few times and away we go. This morning on my way home, it died after about 10 miles. Did not want to restart. I moved selector to neutral it started, however, at some point, this time the electronic info center reset the fuel economy gauge, and trip odometer, etc reset to 0. (first time) It often dies in the same location on the road after driving the same route. I have replaced the icm yesterday. ECM??? fuel pump??? help! Please!

Hello, When electrical memory on items like fuel economy and trip odometer reset in the manner you describe it indicates a low voltage condition. Check battery cable connections for corrosion not seen until taken apart.

The engine may have a fuel pressure or flow problem. The fuel pump strainer on the pump in the tank might be collapsing or the in-line fuel filter is restricted. Check fuel pressure.

Roger

The fuel pressure checks ok 42 goes to 50+ when you throttle up, battery cables were clean, tightened them up.

Try to arrange some time where the car can be commited to diagnostics rather than transportation.

I'd hope the fuel pressure guage could remain connected and monitored during a test drive.

Sometimes these cars will die while driving due to a crankshaft position sensor problem. The check engine light will not be triggered until the engine stops and no code will set. Most often this sensor fails when the engine is completely warmed up. However, the consequence is the engine cranks but won't restart until it cools down. You stated your's starts right back up.....

If the fuel strainer in the tank is collapsing fuel flow is blocked at the time of collapse. When the pump stops the suction is gone and the strainer will expand and debris on the strainer will fall away. Flow is restored until the collapse repeats.

Based on what you have found so far I'm thinking crankshaft position sensor. The condition when present is requiring more time before the engine restarts.

Roger

Has this car been fixed? Please update.

Thanks,

Roger

Roger,
Crankshaft position sensor. I found a local shop that I felt confident in from recommendations I received from friends, diagnosed, repaired and out, $199.00.
I'm a happy boy. Thanks,
Sam Elliott

To close the question please click on OK to finish up.

I thank you.

Roger

1995 Buick Park Avenue Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

Car worked perfectly yesterday. This am - key remote did not work, ignition, lights, trunk release, etc. Nothing electrical works. Fuse? Computer chip? Where to start?

Hello, I'd start by checking the car battery. They can fail suddenly due to corrosion on the cable terminals, a battery post that is leaking, and in some cases the positive post breaks off! I've made many road service calls where the car was fine when they stopped for a short break and the car would not restart...completely dead...replaced the car battery and that was the only problem.

Please advise,

Roger

Thanks for prompt reply. New battery was just put in @ 30 days ago. ?? Could this still be the problem.

Yes, it could be. However, let's first say this battery is "dead". If it is 30 days old it may be discharged, or, perhaps the connections are just not clean/tight.

Can you charge this battery, or, remove it and take it back to the vendor for their own charging and testing? Can you jump start your car and drive it to the vendor for diagnosis?

Could anything have been left on and drained the battery? Have you seen a light, or, gage indicating the alternator is not charging the battery?

Thinking out loud...,

Roger

Thanks for help. Tried all of the last suggestions with no success. Would not take charge - had to be towed to repair shop. Your first diagnosis was correct -- defective battery. Replaced without charge, thank goodness.

I'm very pleased for the outcome. Wouldn't it be great if inconvienence paid a rebate? Mercy, product quality would have to back up a few decades!

Thanks for the good report, are we finished and ready to close this query out?

Sail on,

Roger

1995 Buick Park Avenue Engine   

i have a coolant leak it apears to be right under where the air hose connects on at the top of the engine everything looks good on the head area roughly you could say this leak is in between both heads

Hello, This could be a leak at the throttle body or the intake manifold.

Consider using brake parts cleaner to wash the area to help identify the source.

What engine please? The intake manifold may also be suspect.

Roger

3800

You may want to use a cooling system pressure tester to help identify the source of the leak.

Whether it be the throttle body or the intake manifold the fix is to replace the particular gasket.

Roger

thank you i will go check on that thanks again

If you need something further please ask. If not, please click on OK to finish up and that will close the question.

I thank you,

Roger

1995 Buick Park Avenue Ignition System   

I can start the car but after a few min. the car shuts off just like you turned the key off, then you got put in park or neutral and it will start right up. sounds as if the ignition or fuel problem ? Please help.

Could be either. Test for spark when it stalls.One plug out, hold plug against engine engine while assistant cranks starter. Observe spark.
Also look for fuel pressure test port on fuel line near throttle body. It looks like tire valve. Check for fuel pressure at that location.
Let me know.

There is spark, starts right up. I can drive but when I come to a stop signal, the car will idle and then when I step on throdle it just stops, just as if I turned off the key. All I got to do is re-start engine and go until it does it again. My thoughts are ignition, coil or modulator and or presure reg. How do you check the presure reg? Is there a gauge I can buy.

Most auto parts sell press guages for testing, but I do not believe it is that.
If you have not yet scanned the car for codes, you might want to. Two things I have experienced that are erratic are fuel pump , when it is getting old and Crankshaft Position Sensor. The CTS some times can get erratic, slowly getting worse, eventually not allowing the car to start. BTW sometines a failing CTS will NOT set a code or check engine light.

How do I scan for codes. Is there a way to do it? It say obd 1

Although there are many scanners online you can buy, most auto parts stores offer the service for free.

1995 Buick Park Avenue All Part Groups   

A 95 Buick Park Avenue Ultra. The ABS light and Traction light are on all the time, The security light comes on on start up and then goes out after about a minute. My problem is sometimes it won't start. I leave it for about 15 minutes and then it will start. I had it checked during cranking to start and there wasn't any spark. After another 10 minutes it started normally. As before the ABS and traction light along with security light were on.

I had the same problem with the same kind of car and i had to have my security system takin out. U may want to concider replacin the security system depends where u live.

Hello,

Is the no start condition one in which the engine cranks fine but does not start? If yes and you have confirmed a no spark condtion, the CPS (crankshaft position sensor) OR igntion module is the common failure item. This assumes the Check Engine light comes on when you turn the key on, as it normailly does. This indicates the computer (PCM or ECM) is powering up.

The ABS and Traction lights will both turn on and become inactive if you have a fault in a wheel speed sensor (bad sensor OR connection/wiring to sensor). You should have it scanned with a professional scanner to get the trouble code(s). This should point to the wheel in question. If you had an ohm meter you could test each sensor and perhaps find one open or shorted (indicating failure).

I have heard the only real fix for this problem is to bypass or eliminate the security system. The no start problem always resolves itself after about 15 minutes and it will start normally and run just fine

Does the starter crank the engine okay when you experience the no start condition?

You have tested it confirmed a no spark condtion... did you do this while cranking the engine with the key or a remote starter?

I tested the "no spark" while cranking with the key

Hello,

You have the Passkey II system, with the resistor pellet in the key, correct? This security system will shut down starter function and disable the fuel injectors. Your condition appears quite different if the key switch will activate the starter AND your failure to start is simply caused by a no-spark condition.

Yes that is the way it happens.I would just like to know how to bypass all the security in the car.I don,t need it at all.How can I remove it totally. Thanks

The common bypass is to bypass the troublesome part of the security system. You do this by soldering a resistor in the wires that leave the lock cylinder. You measure the resistor pellet in your key and buy a resistor (Radio Shack) that matches. Locate the wires leaving the lock cylinder and solder the resistor in place. I'll see if I can find detailed instructions online. This problem is very common which often leads to websites with completer instructions with images/diagrams.

You do realize that your failure is not consistent with a security issue?

I have looked all over for a solution. could you tell me where to find it on the internet

The internet connection is not very stable right now--

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AKfn7J9CeZM

Copy and paste the above link into your address bar. It appears it will have the information you need, but I cannot get it to load completely and so cannot comment on the accuracy. I'll try later.

1994 Buick Park Avenue Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I have a 1991 Buick Park Avenue. I just replaced the battery because the car wasn't starting. It fixed the problem temporarily but now the battery keeps draining. I went to Autozone where they tested the alternator and said is was good but they noticed that there was a power drain going on. How do I locate this source of power drain

To locate a power drain, disconnect the negative battery cable and connect an amp-meter between the battery and the cable. It should give you a reading of (x)amps. Normal is under .050 amps. Next, start removing fuses one at a time until you discover which one makes the meter go within the normal range. Then reinstall the offending fuse and disconnect the item(s) on that circuit until you discover which one is drinking the excess electric. You can also disconnect the alternator, because it can drain the battery.

1994 Buick Park Avenue Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I have a parasitic drain that kills the battery after a couple days. When doing a load test, it passes at .25mA but slowly climbs to unacceptable ranges over .75mA (when I disconnected meter) I can pull fuse 9c on the main block under the driver side dash and the drain stops. Have removed twilight sentinel, climate control panel without any luck. Had someone give me a diagram of items on that circuit which lists the above items as well as oil level module. where can I locate this module?

also any other recommendations will be appreciated.

I don't have a component locator that covers your 95, but it likely would be mounted under dash. Install a battery charger and let the car sit for a couple hours, everything off. Now look for something getting warm/hot as whatever is draining the battery will be giving off heat.

nothing hot, I checked that before after having charged the battery.

Hi, Please allow me some time to search a data base.

Back soon,

Roger

The Oil Life Module is located on the right side of the dash under the glove box. In order to access the module the lower dash panel must first be removed.

Have you checked to see if the glove box light is the cause? If so, the bulb will be hot the instant you touch it.

Roger

Ive checked all bulbs, trunk pull down motor, power antenna, power seats....everything I can think of that has constant power supplied. I am now trying to find ANYTHING on that fuse circuit that could be pulling a load. Ive been fighting with this for a long time and I believe I have some extra gray hair to show for it.

If pulling fuse #9C eliminates the excessive draw:

Set up your amp meter to monitor the parasitic drain. Have you unplugged and left disconnected each component on that circuit with no effect?

Roger

At this point, I am trying to locate the components on the circuit. From the schematics that your competitor sent me, I have several things on that circuit. Information center, pass key decoder module, oil level module, variable dimming unit, twilight sentinel control, heater & ac control assy, and remote dimmer module.

They also sent a page from the manual showing what GM says the cicuit controls:
instr cluster, info center, lamp monitor, int lamps dimming, ac, radio, oil lvl multifunction chime module


I have the page scans, but they arent helping.

When I get one of these excessive drains I first look for any aftermarket equipment installed. If none, I start with the easy stuff to disconnect. Glove box light, Chime module, power seat switches....

I'll send you a power distribution wiring diagram to compare with what you have if you'd like. What is your email address please?

You stated that the drain slowly climbs to an excessive amount. I wonder if the electronic level control factors here? An air leak in the system could delay an event trigger, or the height sensor may have a problem......just thinking out loud.

Roger

anything you can send will help (I hope) my email address is

[redacted]

I have done all the bulbs, including the one in the ashtray. The ride leveling system seems to be working ok, it does come on after someone sits in the car for a minute or so, but is not running when the drain occurs.

Oooops! The ELC is not on fuse 9C. Please disregard that suggestion.

Roger

I'll send the power distribution for Fuse #9C.

Roger

1994 Buick Park Avenue Ignition System   

Sometimes when I turn the key, nothing happens and after several tries or if I go away and come back later, it may start imediately.

Hi, Disconnect and clean the battery cable connections. Particularly the positive cable end. One of the two positive cable ends has a lead spacer that can be pried out. Corrosion tends to hide under there.

If no corrosion was found test the battery capacity or consider replacing the starter.

Roger

1993 Buick Park Avenue Engine   

The engine is only running on 4 cylinders and has trouble accelerating. The sparkplugs have been changed and after being told the 3rd coil pack was not functioning that was changed too. What should be changed?

You really should check for spark to all spark plugs, preferably using a spark tester. This will let us know if you are still missing spark to some cylinders. Also check the spark plug wires, these go bad over time. If you are still missing spark to cylinders that are supplied by the 3rd coil pack the ignition module is likely bad (considering the coil is new and the wires are okay).

Let me know if this helps and we'll go from there.

1993 Buick Park Avenue All Part Groups   

I am a retired Pontiac, Olds tech. This has me stumped, never heard anything like it before!
Problem; loud buzzing noise coming from under the center interior dash near defroster vent, only at speeds over 40 mph. No codes come up.
1. No other symptoms.
2. Removed each fuse one at a time with no change in problem.
3. Removed accessory vacuum hoses and plugged them, no change in problem.
4. Accelerating, turning, braking, makes no change in noise.
5. Not temperature sensitive, either ambient or engine temp.
6. Does not sound like a clogged trans filter.
7. Does vary some with engine RPM, rising with RPM to a point.

If it were me, I would remove the radio, the heater/a/c controls and all the trim from that area. Then it might be easier to diagnose. It is a very busy area under the dash! I am thinking that it is either a piece of something in the defog vent area that has come loose or cracked.
It is good that you are a retired tech,,,,do you still have any shop manuals?
An assistant would be mandatory at this point as the car should be driven, then the assistant puts his or her hand inside the suspect area. A loud buzzing will be accompanied by a vibration.
Aint cars grand? I once had a customer complain of a moaning coming from a Caravan dash. It was tough to diagnose, but I found 2 long cracks in firewall, under sound deadener padding. The moaning was caused by the sheetmetal edges rubbing each other!

Hi Bruce,
Well I was hoping to skip that step, but agree that taking the dash apart is the next step. The hope was that this freek of a problem had a sister that one of you guys had come up against. Over the years I hav enjoyed this kind of challange and have some war stories also.

The only work I do now is to my own stuff. This Buick is my mother in law's. She can't drive any more and I can't sell it for her until this noise goes away! I am hot rodding a 75 Corvette and have been working on it in my garage for the past three years. Still have lots to do but the engine is built and in as is the 700R4 trans. Interior is close and I've done some of the paint work. I did a frame off and all the suspention is complete.

How about you. What kind of stuff are you doing? Thanks......................Skip

82 Vette 5.7 TPI 4 spd conversion, 65 Galaxy 4 spd car,73 Buick 455 Stg 1 Gran sport,56 Merc 460 C6 Tubbed Pro Street,71 Duster 340 Race Car,Cad Eldo Barritz, 65 MGB, 56 Ford truck 460 4spd, 3 SS El Caminos 2 big blocks 1 4 spd, The highest optionrd 69 Judge on the planet,2 Rancheros, 74 455 T/A, my beater Grand Prix and a few asst. firebirds and trucks (and parts cars incl a 74 vette)including my daily driver a mid 90's Chevy 454 5spd 1 Ton Dually 4X4
you really had to ask...lol
I currently work for Canadas largest Speed Shop...I usually walk to work (5 or 6 minutes) because if I drive and catch the green on the only traffic light, I do not get the truck out of 2nd gear and the ride takes aprox 20 seconds....fun stuff...

You have lots to keep you busy!

I have a few others, a 77 280 Z Car, 72 Yamaha bike, 73 Honda Scrambler bike, 01 PT Cruiser, and an RV which stands for Repair Vehicle. Just sold my 51 Ford Pickup to finance the Vette. Besides my wife needed a patio to sun bathe, so the PU had to go.

What is your gas going for? We are just toping at $4.00 a gallon. Will let you know what I find on the Buick. It will be awhile though............Skip

COULDA USED THE BACK OF THE PICKUP TO SUNBATHE! LOL
I ALSO HAVE A 1932 CHRIS CRAFT 19 FT V8
DUAL COCKPIT MAHOGANY SPEEDBOAT
TMFT (TOO MANY TOYS!)

HERE IN WESTERN CANADA THE GAS $ IS SIMILAR
YUK

1992 Buick Park Avenue Fuel System Won't Start When repairing 

My husband is working on our 92 buic park ave and he cleaned the fuel injectors with canned air, now the car wont start and he thinks it might be the reset button on the fuel pump, We have already been advised that the button is in trunk on the passenger side, but we are not able to find it. Could you please advise. Thank You Cindy

Check fuses first of all. Can he hear the fuel pump run when the key is turned to the on position? What was your source for the "reset button"? These are common with fords and certain imports, but I don't recall one on the buick.

Did you find your problem? Any questions?

1992 Buick Park Avenue Ignition System Won't Start When stopped Always

I have took this car to every auto repair that i can all system has been checked no sparks, check modules cam sensors ,ignition switch ,plate on timing chain cannot get this car to run at all every one says its eletrical but is un able to find it help me is you can

Does the check engine light come on as it normally does when you turn the key on?
Do you hear the fuel pump prime for a couple seconds, as well as the usual relays clicking underhood?

When the modules and sensors were tested was this done on or off the car?
Do you have a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter)?

yes the check engine comes on some times it satay on all the time the modules and sensors were tested on the car . no i dont have a dvom

Can you get your hands on a multimeter (dvom) or at least a dc voltmeter. I will have one of these cars in for repair in a couple days (so I can give you precise instructions, which can be easier to follow than wiring diagrams)

You can buy an inexpensive multimeter at Walmart for about $10. Then I can give you instructions to perform simple tests.

What did these shops conclude?
They found crankshaft and camshaft signals to be okay?
Did they find 12 volts (battery voltage to the ignition module)?
Were there any troublecodes stored in the computer?

will try to git a multimeter toamorrow also will check the will check these answer on tomorrow but i know that the crankshaft and cam was ok voltige yes codes iam not certainwill give up date on tomorrow.

Ok, let me know.

1992 Buick Park Avenue Heating / Cooling System Failing  

Neither air conditioner or the heater and defroster work . The system is charged.I was wondering if you could tell me what the problem might be ? Thank you , Joe

Is the car overheating? If so it could be a blown headgasket. If the car is not overheating, it could be variable problems that I need more information for. I will give you some ideas.

It could be a blown fuse or fuses.

Does the car have climate control? If so it could be Electronic Control Module.

Blower working? if not or if you hear Actuator doors working but not blowing right, could be a relay or blower needs replacing.

Please provide more information about the problem, so that I can give you more specifics. Thanks!

1992 Buick Park Avenue All Part Groups   

this car has a battery drain. with the negative battery cable disconeted and a dwell meter between the cable and battery it pulls 2.5 volts. I have pulled all fuses and relays I can find and disconected the alternator and it still has the drain. What next?

The normall method is to use an amp meter to see what the current draw is. Do you have an amp meter?

It seems you would have eliminated everything but the starter at this point. This assumes you don't have a hood, trunk, interior, or glove box light on.

My dwell meter only measures amperage in milliamps, so, on that setting it buries the needle. I did disconect the starter and it made no difference. No lights are on in the glove box, trunk, or hood.
Still stumped. What next?

You pulled the relays/fuses underhood and from the interior fuse box?

How long was it taking for your battery to go dead?

About 12 hours.

All fuses have been pulled on the left side above brake pedal, as well as those under the dash cover on the right side next to the processor. I even disconected the processor...no results. I takes about 12 hours to drain the battery past starting. P.S. It is a new Interstate battery 750 cranking amps.

Are you also stumped?

Hello, The only reliable way to find the drain is using an amp meter with 10 amp fused protection.

The max allowable amp drain is 35 miliamps. You will be misled constantly until you use an amp meter. It's not volts that kill the battery it is amp drain.

Can you get an amp meter such as I have described to do the testing?

Does the car have any aftermarket accessories installed? Alarm, keyless entry, remote start, CD player, radar detector, cell phone charger?

Roger

There are no aftermarket acc. It is obvious that there are enough amps to drain the battery. My dwell meter measures up to 250 milli amps. The needle pegs.

What next?

All right, you stated that you had pulled all of the fuses and circuit breaker from both fuse boxes (one inside and one under the hood) correct?

Have you pulled the maxi fuses?

Roger

what are maxi fuses and where are they located?

At the top right side of the firewall there is a black plastic cover that is removable. It is under this panel I recall some relays for the a/c compressor, cooling fans, and maxi-fuses.

Maxi-fuses are under black box covers and are rated at 40 or more amps each. They are large in size and different colors.

I'm searching for a pic to send you. To find it I'll need to access a different data base later today when I get to the city.

Roger

Thanks, I'll try those.

Let me know if you need a legend. Do you have an Owner's manual?

Roger

The owners manual is very limited in information. I could use a wireing diagram. i will get to the maxi fuses tomorrow.

Thanks

What is your email address please? I can send you a legend for the maxi-fuses and a couple pages of wiring diagrams to review.

Roger

I have removed all the maxi fuses as well as the relays located just below the fuses, all with no results. Not sure where to go from here. what do you think?

E-mail: [redacted]

could you send a stick of dynamite as well?
Interesting note: using a dummy fuse, I checked for a drain in the fuse box. on the level ride fuse I get the same draw as I do at the battery. When I disconect the sensor on the level ride (rear) and the compressor, the drain at the fuse box is eliminated but it still shows at the battery. ???

I'm looking for a power distribution schematic so I can follow the circuit from battery to electronic level control (ELC) system grounding point.

Negative on the dynamite....

Roger

Thanks!

You stated that having the ELC Compressor and the height sensor disconnected you still have a drain if you test at the battery.

Which fuse do you have removed? The maxi Fuse #3 (40 amp) under the hood, or dash fuse panel fuses #12 & #17?

Try removing the ELC Relay. Will that stop the drain?

Roger

It is a "Yes" to your first statement. As to the second...I have fuse # 12 removed under the dash.
And I have removed the ELC relay and it doesn't stop the drain. I still have the battery disconected so my wife can drive it tomorrow.

Fuse #12 powers the ELC Relay and compressor.

Fuse #17 powers the height control sensor. Will the drain stop if fuse 17 is removed? If so, the height control sensor has the problem.

I'll scan to email another drawing I found.

Roger

I have had fuse #17 removed and the height sensor wire unpluged at the sensor, yet the battery still has a drain.

Which maxi fuse (if removed) will eliminate the drain?

Roger

NONE!

I do not trust your meter. Will you please try using a digital multi-meter on DC Miliamp scale?

Roger

There is nothing wrong with my meter, the problem is with the car.

Try unplugging the push-in connector from the alternator.

Roger

I have already replaced the alternator.To unplug that wire I have to remove the alternator. I did buy a digital meter. The drain measures 4.8 to 5.4 amps. I have unpluged all the maxi fuses and one fuse removed drops the amp drain to 1.4 amps. This is not milli amps, but is on a 10 amp setting. This fuse is in the left hand block #5. when I remove it the alarm dinger sounds like when the headlamps are left on. But even 1.4 amps is enough to drain the battery, right?

Oh yes! Even 1.4 amps is far too much. The max allowable is just 35 miliamps.

Does time effect the battery drain? Does your car have the Retained Accessory Power feature? RAP takes ten minutes to go to sleep unless a car door is opened and the ignition key is off.

Roger

Have you checked to see if a power seat switch is stuck?

Roger

I don't think the RAP is applicable here as the battery has had the ground cable disconected overnight. I will unplug the power seats, but are they not fused?

The legend for the LH maxi-fuse box lists the power seats as one of the systems powered by maxi-fuse #5.

The 5.4 amp drain would not blow the 40 amp maxi-fuse.

I agree that RAP would not factor as the battery has been disconnected. Further testing was resumed without cycling the ignition....

Roger

But if maxi fuse #5 was removed would that not eliminate the seat motor?

Yes, it would. You stated that with maxi-fuse #5 removed the drain dropped from 4.8-5.4 amps down to 1.4 amps. Could this be due to eliminating the power seats?

Roger

I don't know.

When a change in the amount of drain occurs by removing a fuse, all systems powered by the fuse are suspect.

In the case of maxi-fuse #5 we are discussing- I mentioned the power seat switch as a possibility because I have seen seat switches stick in the past experiences.

Roger

Today the drain measures 1.4 even with maxi fuse #5 in place. I really think that this problem is in some electronic module that acts in an erratic patern. I just can't find out how to isolate it.

Allow me to update. This thing is not consistent at all. Now the drain once again measures 4.5 + amps with the seats unpluged. with maxi fuse #5 removed the drain measurement drops to 1.4 amps. What could cause this inconsistency in the drain? I don't think there is much left to disconect, so where do we go from here.

Lets try a fresh approach. I have obtained a 1992 Park Ave Electrical Service Manual (ESM) from my local Buick Dealership.

It states after connecting your ammeter in series between the disconnected negative battery cable and the negative battery post you need to wait seven minutes or more for the ELC and Anti-Lock Brake Systems to time out and become inactive.

The parasitic drain on the battery should drop to below 25 miliamps. (25, not 35 as I had stated earlier)

Only fuses that are "Hot at all times" need be pulled to isolate the excess drain if there is one.

This says to us that if after seven minutes time the drain exceeds 25 miliamps we could use a 12 volt dc test light to check fuses. Any fuse found to have power on both sides with the ignition key off and the key removed is one to pull and see if the drain drops within specs.

It is very interesting to note that the shop manual disagrees with the Chilton Auto Repair Data Base as to the legend for the LH under hood maxi-fuse panel. It shows the ELC powered by maxi-fuse #3....not #5.

Do you like this approach?

Roger

Have you included in your diagnosis pulling fuses from the relay panel under the right side of the dash near the kick panel?

Roger

Well, all of the above sounds good; however, I have pulled every fuse and relay inside and out right and left under the dash...even the processor unit. Whether a fuse is cold or hot, it has been removed while the conection (between the neg battery post and neg cable) has been continuously conected for not seven minutes but for many hours. Sometimes the drain has droped as low as .87 amps which would be 87 milliamps. As for the disagrement between the books, probably a simple mistake on someones part; however, the fact still remains that both of those fuses have been pulled without any results. I may have said it before, but the seats are alwo disconected.
What next?

The power distribution schematic shows the maxi-fuses in the LH and RH panels power everything. Whatever becomes switched hot by the ignition switch in the on position gets power supplied by the maxi-fuses.

With every maxi-fuse removed nothing remains connected to the battery except the alternator and the starter.

I asked that the alternator be disconnected. Will you consider that step now?

Roger

O.K. Will let you know the results.

Well it is negative with the alternator. But, I have discovered with this ammeter what I was not able before with the dwell meter. I had always removed the maxi fuses one at a time and replaced them when I saw no change in the dwell reading. Today after disconecting the alternator and finding no change, I went through the maxi fuses again one at a time and left them out. When I removed #3 on the right bank, the amp measurement droped to 16 milli amps, which is an acceptable level; however, with the dwell meter on the dc volt setting it still showed the same voltage reading. May I eat some humble pie? My next step was to remove the fuse #17 left side under the dash which didn't change anything. So I would ask, could it be the relay that operates the a/c clutch?

Well, it's not the a/c clutch. It is the a/c/heater motor. When I unpluged it the ammeter droped to 16 milli amps. I checked the motor for continuity and it shows a short. I am confident when I replace the motor the problem will be solved. If not I'll write. wise I thank you for your help and persistence and a job well done!

It sure feels good to find the cause. I will continue to be interested in your findings until you click OK to finish up.

I never stop learning, always deny a dynamite request, and have no humble pie on the menu, or even on order.

Thanks for sticking with me. I'm here to help.

Roger

How did you determine the blower motor has a short?

Your car may have a power module that controls blower speed. I have changed many power modules shorted to ground and causing a parasitic drain THROUGH the blower motor. The blower motor was not the cause rather the result of the power module failure.

If the power module has failed it is usually due to excessive amp draw to run the blower motor. Frequently they both will need changing if the blower draws too many amps.

If blower motor amp draw is not addressed a new power module will have a short life at retail prices.

Roger

You are right. The blower motor is o.k. Where is this module located?

O.k. I guess I read your statement to quickly. How do I check the amp draw on the motor and then where do I find the power module??

To test the blower motor amp draw I use a dc inductance amp probe. Not likely you'll choose to afford one of those.

The amp draw on the blower motor is done with the engine running and the blower motor set to high speed. After one minute of operation the motor should not draw 20 or more amps. Frankly not all mechanics check this and the warranty on the new power module may not require this step.

The power module is located under the underhood maxi-fuse boxes and the relays located in that area. It will be bolted down in the top of the HVAC case. It has two electrical connectors.

With the battery disconnected you can usually remove the fuse box mount screws and roll the fuse boxes forward toward the engine and work over the top of them to get to the power module.

The power module is a solid state device with the cooling heat sink portion of the module mounted down inside the HVAC case to be cooled by the blower air.

Roger

Thanks I will see if I can find it. I would guess that the availability of this power module would be an order item only?

Not unusual to find one in a national auto parts chain store right on the shelf. Power modules have been used for many years now.

The vendor may know the part as a blower speed control module. You will benefit shopping on the phone to save time and gasoline.

Roger

My local salvage yard has one in a 1994 pk.ave. would that be o.k.? Oh yes, I found it and have it in my hand. My local parts store couldn't find it with the delco #'s. I will also try Auto Zone.

Yes, the 1994 part will work so long as the electrical connectors are the same.

Roger

Thanks. The parts stores here seem to be as unknowlegeagle as I am about this part. I will be away from home for two days in order to attend a funeral. Will probably be able to get the part installed early thursday morning, the used one, that is. Will let you know the results as soon as I can. Thanks again.

I'll wait for your reply.

I'm sorry for your loss. Drive safely.

Roger

Back to work. I am having a hard time finding a power control module except at a G.M. Dealer. Their price is with tax: $200.00. All of the local salvage yards are sold out, including the one I thought was there. Do you have any suggestions where I might buy one online?

How about trying the link on All Parts Home Page for parts? There is no charge for this service and your request goes out to many suppliers.

To Find Parts:
Visit http://www.all-parts.com/AP5/. Our "Parts-Finders" will get dozens of part suppliers finding parts for you.

Roger

I did try the all parts locator's; however, as this is such a hot item in the salvage yards, I didn't get any replies. My local salvage yard searched his regional base and found none. I have now purchased a new part from GM through my friends in a body shop and received a 30 percent discount, which helped greatly. The part is installed and the heater motor connected. The drain now measures 2 milliamps!!! The automatic fan motor increases in speed as I select cooler temperature settigs. I think the problem is solved.Thanks so much for all your help and persistence.

Randy

Thank you for the chance to help.

Please click OK to finish up.

Good job!

Roger

1992 Buick Park Avenue Engine   

The car will not start right away after driving. The engine will crank but not start. It will eventually restart after a five or ten minute wait. Sometimes the engine will stall/shut down while driving.

The first thing I would check is scan for 'codes'. If that not avail., the one sensor I would worry about is the crank position sensor.Usually located on the block, rear of engine, centered, lowdown, just above the pan rail. If memory serves me correct, it is the size of your finger, held in place with a 5/16 (or 8mm) head bolt and has 2 wires with plug attached.

1992 Buick Park Avenue Heating / Cooling System   

The air conditioner does not always come on. If I accellerate hard, getting the rpms up to about 4000, it will come on and sometimes it stays on, other times it cuts off after a few minutes and I have to repeat the process. The compressor is not turning on with the car at idle, but like I say, it will often come on for a while if the engine is revved up.

Hi, Locate the system accumulator on the right side of the firewall. It is alluminum in color and has a low pressure/cycling switch mounted horizontally near the top.

Disconnect this switch and jumper the two wire terminals in the switch connector together. Does the compressor come on right away and continue to operate? If so, replace the switch. You will not lose freon when you unscrew the switch for removal.

If the compressor does not come on right away please advise.

Roger

That did not work. However, when I tapped the pulley with a hammer, it came on for a short period and then it quit working again.

Thank you. The clutch gap when the compressor is not engaged should be about 0.020" If it is and the clutch is not engaging the clutch coil is weak. If the gap is too wide it can be adjusted with a tool made to install the clutch that presses it on.

The clutch coil when unplugged should measure approx 3.5 ohms.

Roger

Okay, now you are talking beyond my abilities. Can the clutch be repaired or replaced, or does the entire compressor need to be replaced. If the clutch can be replaced, roughly what am I looking at in time and money? thanks

1991 Buick Park Avenue Fuel System Won't Start When starting Always

I just installed a Mass Air Flow sensor, Idle Air control sensor, camshaft sensor and a crankshaft sensor, and Throttle position sensor, and the check engine light is still on and the scan tool set a code 21 and sometimes a 22. How do I stop this code from showing up, and will this keep my car from starting. Please help

Guess What Rodger I did it. It Started my dad came by to help me out the fuel pump was bad and plus there was no fuel in the tank now come on, when we put the new one on the last time it had gas in that tank. We replaced,and the coil and modcule was burned out was not getting a spark it was really weak
me and the guy at auto zone we got into it because the checked the coil and the modcule he said that it was good and it wasn't I was trying to tell him that because I could smell the coil and modcule was burnt. Boy was I hot he trying to tell me that it was the crankshaft sensor.I told him I just had it replaced. the code was not showing that it was bad. I runs so good Thanx Alot For Your HelP I really can't thank you enough. I guess the guy at auto zone don't think women can fix cars. I could go kick his A--. Thank ALot Roger. now i have to replace my coolant temperture sensor. And Roger God Bless You
Thank You Go Rodger

Before you do anything else, disconnect the battery for a few minutes, then hook back up and go for a 20min or so drive. This should clear the codes

Do I have to adjust the throttle sensor? Does this keep my car from starting?

You should try to put it in the same position as the old one, make sure all connectors are connected. As far as not starting, does it turn over? Is the fuel pump operational? Need a little more info please.

4-21-03. Are you still getting codes 21 & 22? I'd like to help..

Roger

I have replaced the MAF sensor,crankshaft sensor, camshaft sensor, idle control air sensor, and the throttle position sensor, and how do I set the throttle sensor, and where do I get some jumper wires to set the throttle. The fuel pump is new. The engine is 3800 series-tuned ported injection. it onle have 120k miles. What else is there keep my car from starting please help if you need more information let me know thanks.

4-22-03

First, do you have access to a scan tool? The throttle position sensor is best diagnosed and set with a scanner. I made my own jumper harness for this procedure.

What was the original complaint before you bought all these parts?

Roger

I have a scan tool but is not the one with the digital multi-meter to it. I have a digital mulit-meter. when I first scanned the car the codes were,22, 21, 41, 34, and I replaced them all. and still no start. How do I make jumper wires for this throttle. What else could keep my car from starting. I had the coil and modcule replaced because the one that was on the car was melted, can the coil and the modcule short out or have a defect. I wish you were here to help me. Thanx need more info Let me know. Can you call me if so let me know. Thanx

I went to a salvage yard for the wiring and connector to make my jumper harness for the TPS sensor. I found what I wanted and cut it off with enough wiring length to make the tool.

Out of desperation I've seen technicions 'nick' the harness on the car just enough to allow a test lead tip(volt meter) to read the circuit and then tape up the bare wire.

Codes are worked one at a time starting with the first one set. I scan and record all codes then I clear the codes and see what comes back first.

You've told me the codes you scanned...but what melted the coil and ignition module to begin with? Since that event has the engine ever started?

Was there a voltage spike from the alternator, or, lightning?

I have no way of writing off a phone call.

I'm in Oklahoma City area, where are you?

Roger

The coil has been replaced. I need to get a new alternator because that on the car is really old, and replace the spark plugs. I have a problem with the throttle sensor, setting it up on what to do. The car was working but it was jerking, it would idle up high, and take off by it self, and cut off. And it would take awhile for it to start up again. And all of the sudden it just stopped, it would not start again,and that's when I got the scanner to see what the problem was, Was it electrical or what. Well if I can call you I have free long distance, just let me know. Thanx

The TPS is set with key 'on', engine stopped, the throttle body clean and the throttle closed. Set to 0.33-0.46 VDC. Wide open throttle should be over 4.0 VDC and can go as high as 5.1 VDC by hand operation, but, typically 4.1-4.2 VDC using the accelerator pedal to 'floor' the throttle.

The alternator may be 'old' but if it tests OK, keep it!

Do you have fuel flow and spark?

I won't post my phone number on this site because of potential calls from those who would want to bypass ALL-PARTS to avoid fees and keep me busy all hours of the day or night for advice. Surely you'll understand. This is the world wide web!

Roger

Yes I have a spark , but how do I check the fuel flow. Ok by putting the accelerator pedal to the floor will the throttle be open or closed. How will I make the jumper wires. Thanx need more info. let me know, Priscilla

When you press on the accelerator you are opening the throttle.

Can you obtain a TPS connector and wiring from a salvage? If hard to do, then, consider removing just enough wire insulation on your cars harness to test the circuits.

Gray wire is 5VDC Reference. Dark Blue is TPS Signal. Black is Sensor Ground.

After all you've done and in light of the burned coil and module you'll do well to test the injectos with a node light to see if the PCM is firing the injectors. A node light is plugged into the connector removed from an injector and will blink as you crank the engine if the PCM injector circuits are good. Be sure to check every fuse with the key 'on' before you go buy a PCM you can't return.

There is a valve on the fuel rail that looks like a metal tire valve with plastic cap where you can test fuel pressure and know if the fuel pump is good.

Let me know...

Roger

4-28-03. May I hear from you please? I want to keep up!!

Roger

I had just put the new spark plugs in, and now i'm working on the throttle sensor i have not finished yet with it I have to adjust the throttle sensor and then I will start it today. And I will let you know from there.

4-29-03. Excellent! I'm looking forward to your next message.

Thanks,

Roger

Ok I have set the TPS to 0.40. I tried to start the car the check engine light is still one and the car rotate and attempted to start but it didn't so I checked the fuel from the valve and the gas did not shoot out it was just a slow stream. I heard some noise from the tank it was like a roaring noise. I just replaced that fuel pump.
Priscilla Thanx sorry need more help

5-2-03.
Alright, we've got to see if the powertrain control module (PCM) is controlling the fuel injectors, or not. A tool called a NODE LIGHT (available at most automotive parts chain stores) is plugged into any injector plug you can unplug and place the node light in it's harness. When you crank the engine the node light should blink every time the PCM commands the selected injector to "fire" and inject fuel for that cylinder. You can check as many positions of the injector harness as you have patience for. Usually if the PCM fires one injector, you can expect that it will control all of them. If the light doesn't blink, you need a PCM. If it does blink, verify the fuel rail pressure (even though the pump is new) with a pressure guage. Be sure your fuel filter is a good one or it can restrict flow/pressure.

I'm believing that since you've replaced the fuel pump that the quality of the fuel is good/new.

Please note that the check engine light will stay on until the engine starts and runs even when no codes are present, so we'll deal with that light after the engine starts if it remains "on".

I recommend you see if your public library has referance books pertaining to your cars specs. You can make copies of what you want even if the book cannot be checked out.

Let me know what happens!

Roger

5-3-03
Excellent work my friend!! Your determination has rewarded you well and I am a huge fan of a woman that won't quit.

I've enjoyed working with you throughout this process and you are just so awesome! Congratulations, I'm very proud of you.

Consider sending a note to All-Parts and thank them for this wonderful web site that brought us together for this experience.

Sail On, you're welcome!! You rule!

Roger

1991 Buick Park Avenue Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens always Always

The blower motor runs with the key off and I only have high speed. I changed the button control unit in the dash but it still does this. I tried to,but cannot locate the relay. Do you know what could be the problem and where the relay would be located? Thanks for any help.

Hello, your car has what is called a POWER MODULE that varies the speed of the fan for the HVAC system. A blower motor that draws too many amps will fail this module. Blower motor draw cannot exceed 20 amps on high speed with the engine running.

You'll find it mounted straight down through the plenum under the hood at the top of the firewall. There is a removable panel that starts on the passenger side of the firewall and goes across most of the way to the power brake vacuum booster.

Disconnect the battery, remove the access panel/cover. The relays you see are for the A/C compressor and the cooling fans. The whole rack of relays must be unbolted from the firewall before you'll see the POWER MODULE at the top of the plenum. It usually has two connectors and is held down by 3 size 7mm hex head bolts. Replace the module and reassemble, reconnect the battery.

Hello, What is the status here please?

Thanks,

Roger

May I hear from you, please? Thanks!

Roger

Hello? Will you please update this question status?

Thanks,

Roger

Are we finished here? Please update.

Thanks,

Roger

Hello?, Please update this query!

Thanks,

Roger

Please take the time to update/close this question. I hope to provide the help you asked for. Please update.

Thanks,

Roger

Hello, I've asked repeatedly for an update here. Won't you please reply?

Thanks,

Roger

1991 Buick Park Avenue Heating / Cooling System  Happens always Always

the heater fan is stuck on high

Hello.The blower motor resistor is bad or the switch itself.Go to this link to find the R&R for the resistor and switch.The big 4 wire connector at the blower motor is what plugs into the resistor there.Autozone.com

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/0b/29/d[redacted] d800b29d5.jsp

1991 Buick Park Avenue Electrical / Lighting Systems  Happens always 

rear park and tail lights don't come on but all other lights work

i've changed bulbs and fuse under the dash but still no park or tail lights. the parking light indicator shows red light

there is no power to the light, are there other fuses that would need to be replaced?

replace headlight switch

the headlights work fine,

the park light swith is seperate and the front park lights work fine too

the lights have a sensor that automaticly come on at dusk so I dson't use the switches

the lights are only the rear lights

only the rear tail and parking lights don't work

regardless of whether the headlight switch is seperate or not it all has to go through the headlight switch

ok i replaced the headlight switch and it did not fix the problem

did you check for power coming out of switch or just replaced it also does the tail lights have circuit boards or pigtails

just replaced it and the tail lights have pig tails that come out of the other lights

under rear of car usually by driver side rear bumper is a connector to rear lights is power there

did you find the problem

1991 Buick Park Avenue Electrical / Lighting Systems Failing Happens always No pattern

My low beams have never worked since I bought my car. The light on the "fuse control" center above my head is lit up, however no fuses are bad. Also, my brights work but often only one of my brights works, and when I hit a bump or just when I'm driving the other bright will come back on. Are the cords to my low beams bad? or do i need to replace a fuse that i missed? thanks

have you tried replacing bulbs first

Yes, I have tried replacing all the low beam bulbs but it didn't work.

connector on one that works when jarred as for low beams i would notice light on dash when i dim or brighten to see if it comes on and off when i dim or brighten

I can't undertand your answer. i will check the connector on the highs, but the low beams do not work at all, regardless of whether or not i dim or do not dim. i have checked fuses and tried to check wiring but i couldn't see anything wrong.

Hello, The headlight dimmer switch is mounted on the steering column case below the dash. See if you can locate it and verify that it works.

Does your car have the Twilight Sentinel option?

Do you need the wiring colors for the headlight dimmer switch?

The switch has three wires. Yellow, Tan and Lt Grn.
The Yellow wire supplies power to the switch. When on low beam the switch will output voltage on the Tan wire to the headlamps.
When on hi beam the switch will output voltage on the Lt Grn wire to the headlamps.

If power is not leaving the dimmer switch on the correct color wire then the switch is out of adjustment or defective.

Roger

so how do i go about checking this? I was driving last night and i moved the switch and the lights on my dash didn't go dim or brighter..how do i examine the wires?

Do you have a digital multi-meter or a 12 volt dc test light to make diagnostic tests with?

What switch did you move that had no effect on the dash lights? Wrer theb headlights on at that time? Do you have a digital dash?

Examining the wires is to look for discoloration at connectors to the headlight dimmer switch on the steering column. That would indicate heat build up.

Roger

I moved the "dimmer" switch that had no effect.

All right, let's put off concerns for the dimmer for now and continue with the headlight dimmer switch diagnosis on the steering column.

Roger

Ok. Which dimmer are you talking about? My Park Avenue has two, the top one controls the interior lights and has a setting that turns the lights on only when the door is opened. This does not work.

The second one, on the bottom controls the brightness of the lights on my dash. This doesn't work either.

However, I do not know how to access the wires to check them out. Do I go in from the engine, or from the inside of the car?

My concern is to get you low beam headlights. I'm addressing the headlight dimmer switch that the driver actuates by lifting up on the turn signal lever to change from low to hi beam headlights and back.

This switch is under the dash on the left side of the steering column. I have previously described the wire colors to the dimmer switch.

Are you comfortable working under the dash?

Roger

Ooookay. Now I know what you are talking about. the lever to switch from low to bright and so forth (the same lever to do turn signals).

i would be okay working under the dash if you could tell me how to access.

If there is a black or gray color close out panel below the driver's side of the dash, remove it.

Look on the left side of the steering column near the top of the column for the headlight dimmer switch. It may be hard to see. If you find it please try the suggestions I've made.

Roger

I checked the wires and couldn't find any that were discolored. Are the wires right next to the turn signal thing?

No, the mounting location of the dimmer switch for the headlamps is located on the steering column case about half way down the length of the steering column.

If you have looked up from under the left side of the dash (remember removing the close-out panel?) at the steering column you'll see the ignition switch and the dimmer switch mounted on the column.

I've identified the three wires that connect to the dimmer switch so you can identify the switch that needs to be tested to see if it is the cause of the no low beam headlights.

I'm not confident you will fix this yourself. Are my suggestions unclear? Replacing the dimmer switch, if needed, will require lowering the steering column from it's dash mounts and disconnecting the gearshift indicator. Can you do this?

Roger

yeah i'm not going to be able to do this myself, i guess i'll have to take it in

To accept my answer so that All Parts will pay me please click on the OK TO PAY MECHANIC button.

Try us another time. Thank you!

Roger

1991 Buick Park Avenue Engine   

Installed new battery today. Drove vehicle approximately 2-3 miles and experienced rough idle at stoplight. Accelerated and seemed to run ok at higher rpms. Stopped again and experience same rough idle and engine nearly died. Exhaust smelled rich. What is wrong?

When you disconnected the battery, the engine computer lost its memory. It is now in the process of relearning the settings regarding how to make the engine run smoothly again. The process may be sped up by leaving it warm up, idle in park, idle in drive, test drive. In several day to a week, it should all be back to normal even without doing anything special.

Thanks for the reply. If it does not clear up in a few days or so what should I try next? I have a scanner and can read codes. Will that help? Or is there a computer reset function available? This vehicle belongs to my son who drives it to school and back. 124k miles and all options work. His grandfather gave it to him when he turned 16. Trying to save having to spend big dollars for repairs.

Some scanners have a relearn procedure built into them, cheaper ones do not. I think it will clear soon, or you have some other problem.

1991 Buick Park Avenue Electrical / Lighting Systems   

i bought a 1991 buick park avenue and when i was driving it home it began to cut off like it was loosing power the dash lights started flashing even the check engine light.it would start up after a few tries and run fine then it would start doing it again.i made it home and turned the car off and tried to start it again but it would not do anything at all only dash lights would come on and the cooling fans.i checked the starter but it was fine.then i had a hand held diagnostic meter reading and it showed that everything was going crazy never have i seen all the sensors read bad at one time now it will not start at all wont do anything.

Start with the simple, basics first...See why it won't crank. There should be power an ground at all times at the starter when measured beteen the big terminal and the starter case. This remain above 9V even when cranking. If not, check the battery, terminals and cables.

Next, the small wire at the starter should read at least 9v when hooked up and trying to crank the engine. If not, check your ignition switch, neutral safety switch and related wiring.

If the engine is cranking, but not firing, look first to make sure the check engine light is on. If not, check the powers and grounds to the computer. They could account for the crazy readings.

1991 Buick Park Avenue Engine   

Hello and greetings from germany.
I have big Problems with my 1991 Park Avenue, the engine doesn´t start, even the starter doesn´t move. Normaly, if i push the brake, i can shift from parking to r,n,d, etc, but the solenoid doesn´t work, the secrity lamp turns off, when ignition is on. When I connect 50 and 30 directly on the starter, the engine runs for one second and stop. I tried to change the computer, but no result.
I have an own car repair, but here in germany i have no chance to get a wiring diagram or something else for my loved american car.
It would be great, if anyone can help me.
My e-mail adress is: kfz-viole@arcor.de
Many thanks and please excuse my not perfect english.

Copy and Paste the following link into your Address Bar to access a repair manual for your car-

http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/15/f9/9[redacted] f990.jsp

What does the security light do when you turn the key to start the engine?

hello,
when i try to start the engine the security lamp is off

1991 Buick Park Avenue Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

The is a loud popping noise from the front of the car when coming to a stop and when just starting to move from a stop -- like the lips of two edges of metal rubbing and then snapping apart quickly.

Start by checking your ball joints. Take a look at the strut and spring also. It could be in other parts of the suspension, such as sway bar or control arm bushings.

Copy and Paste the following link into your Address bar-

http://www1.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/17/fa/4[redacted] fa44/repairInfoPages.htm

The link will take you to a repair guide for a similar automobile. Be sure to safely support the vehicle befor working on it.

Here is another link from the same site that shows common suspension components/locations-

http://www1.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/15/f1/4b/[redacted] f14b/repairInfoPages.htm

Keep in mind if you have a bad ball joint or strut/spring the car is not considered safe to drive as you can loose steering or control of the vehicle when one of these fail.

Struts and control arm bushing are new - they were worn, but just recently replaced. I thought that would fix the problem. The noise still continues. I also had the upper and lower engine mounts replaced before that because they were worn. The noise appaeared a short time after the engine mounts were replaced. When the new lower mount was replaced it had stripped and was replace a second time. Could this have damaged anything? If so, what?

1991 Buick Park Avenue All Part Groups   

The original problem started two months ago. My car died while driving. The mechanic changed the cam and crankshaft sensor, as well as gave it a tune up. It ran fine for two weeks, then died on me driving again. This time he changed the ignition module and disconnected my security system (saying the light stayed on too long after I started the car). When I picked the car up, it sputters, and coughs, and hesitates when the car is cold. The mechanic told me to drive it for a while, because he said he accidentally drained the battery and killed the memory in my computer, and maybe it needs to "relearn" itself. So, I've been driving it like this for two weeks. I have to warm my car up for sometimes 20 min before I drive it, because it sputters whenever I get it between 15k and 20k RPM, and then again at 25K RPM until it is completely warmed up. However, once it is warmed up... it runs beautifully! Oh, one more problem, also. Since I picked up the car after he replaced my ignition module, my brake-transaxle shift interlock is not working. I can now take the car out of park without putting my foot down on the brake.
I'm afraid to go back to this mechanic, but I've already spent $1000. The recent work is under warranty, but the last time I took it back, he said it was something new! I strongly believe it is something simple, as it has only started since he put in the new ignition module.
Can you give me some clues as to what it may be?

November 20, 2007
Since I wrote the above (but did not submit) one week ago, I took my car to another mechanic. He went over all the previous work done by the other mechanic. He found a broken connector to the module, which he replaced. He also replaced the ignition coil. No change. So he replaced the computer, with no change. He gave me the car back, saying that it is most likely my wiring.

I've been doing some research on the internet for similar problems, and I came across this post from a mechanic to a person with a similar problem----

"Answer
Melvin, thank you very much for the additional information, it really helps.

From the sounds of it, I'd say there is a definite ground problem with the transmission. There is a valve in 3.1V6 that will allow the transmission to run and shift smoothly even when the engine and transmission are cold. This valve is supposed to open and close depending on whether the engine is warm or not.

In your case, it sounds like that valve is not grounded properly. Therefore, when you first start the engine or when you first turn on the key...the valve is not opening like it should. Then when it's warmed up, or after the key has been on for a minute, the valve (which should have been closed again by now) is still closed because it never opened anyway, and the car will shift and run fine. This valve is sometimes mistaken as the torque converter switch, but it's actually referred to as the cold sensor switch on the L4TE Automatic Transaxle for a '92 3.1V6. You'll simply need to repair the ground wire on the switch. This will allow your vehicle to shift and run like it should.

An experienced mechanic could find it, or, you can also find it if you crawl underneath, You'll see 4 wires travelling to a wiring harness just behind the transmission. These wires are for ignition, shift, reverse and cold valve. Just follow the black wire to the subframe and make sure it's still secure."

This person has a 1992 Buick Park Ave, and mine is a 1991 Buick Park Ave. Could this still pertain to my year Buick?

I cannot afford more $$ to fix this car! Please advise. Any and all suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Thank you very very much!

Lisa in CA

Hi Lisa,

First thing I want to clarify is that your car should have a 3.8L V6 engine. Does it?

Was the fuel pressure checked? Was the fuel filter replaced?

Roger

Roger, when I took the car in originally, and took it back I asked the guy to check my fuel filter (hoping it was something simple). He said it was fine. Also, I forgot to add that he also replaced my serpentine belt, and my crankseal, which is now leaking!

There are no codes reading either, and my check engine light does not come on.

Sorry I did not answer the question you asked. Yes, my car is a 3.8L SFI OHV.

Lisa, this mechanic needs to stand behind his work and honor his warranty to you. Did you get a receipt stating the warranty policy?

The first mechanic will void any warranty on his work if he knows the car went to someone else. He will not tolerate that at all so be prepared for that and don't tell him anything about mechanic #2.

It is difficult to guide you because what I would hope for is that you will fight for your rights. Are you a fighter?

Car questions I have are:
1. Isn't this a 3.8L V6 engine? All that info you described about the 1992 Park Ave with a 3100 engine would not apply to your car.
2. When the car stops running does the engine have spark? Fuel pressure?
3. What is the fuel pressure?
4. Does the problem occur after a long drive, short drive, or at random?
5. How much fuel in the tank when the engine quits? Were you turning a corner, on a curve, or driving straight?
6. Have you checked all of your fuses to see if one is the cause of the shift lock problem?

Your thoughts?

Roger

Actually Roger, I do not have a stalling problem any more. My problem is when the car is cold, it sputters, hesitates and cough, and chokes.. until it warms up.

I thought about the 2nd mechanic voiding the warranty also. I will not say a word to the first one.. and yes, I am a fighter. The second mechanic (whom I trust and would have gone to first if he was open that day!) told me he thinks it's electrical and possibly in the wire "loom"?

I doubt wiring will be the problem.

Any talk about the coolant temperature sensor accuracy? A wrong signal can cause a wrong fuel mixture.

Any black smoke or heavy fumes like flooding?

The EGR Valve might be sticking.

Roger

Any news here?

Roger

Hi Roger. Sorry to leave you hanging like that. There is no black smoke or gas flooding smell. When the car is warm, I can sometimes smell what I can only describe as a burning wire smell. Also, it rained all night and this morning, and even after I warmed up my car this morning (like I do every morning), the car still ran with the jerking, coughing, and hesitating all the way to work (17 miles). It even does it in reverse, like when I was backing up today. Only when the car is cold. But, it takes forever to warm up!
Reluctantly, I will be taking it to the dealer on Monday.

If you are ready to close the question please click on OK to finish up. If not, please advise.

I thank you,

Roger

Roger, another update for you. I took my car to a AAA Certified Buick Dealer. After having my car for three days, he called me and told me that it is definitely a wire; however, it would cost too much for them to find. He said approx. $1400. He did not charge me a dime, Also, he told me to take my car back to the original mechanic and try to have him honor his warranty, and open up a complaint claim against him. He said they were scratching their heads trying to figure out where the problem could be. My car is not reading any codes.

Any thoughts on what areas of wiring could cause the problem? Oh yes, I'm not sure if I mentioned earlier that I no longer have to depress the brake pedal to take my car out of park. This happened at the same time my current problem started, when the mechanic changed my ignition module. Could they be related?

The problem is getting worse, and I hate to drive the car for fear I'm going to break something serious, but I have no choice. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated

This is a tough one. I can't see a connection between the shift lock release and replacing the ignition module.

The engine wiring harness could be replaced with one from a salvage car....provided diligent care were taken to minimize damage during removal from the donor car.

Bluntly speaking if you can't get satisfaction from the mechanic that took your $1000 and built a problem into your car you will soon exceed the car's value to take repairing it any further.

Will you keep the car, trade it, or sell it? Don't decide until you find your position with the mechanic you spent all that money with.

This is business so don't hesitate to file a complaint if necessary.

Roger

1991 Buick Park Avenue Heating / Cooling System   

A/C compressor switches on and off. Checked coolant and pressure, high and low everything checks out. Do I have a relay or module problem and if so where are there located?

I have auto Clim Control on the inside dashboard. The AUTO light doesn't light up anymore. Unit switches to "Econ" Replaced unit A/C still doesn't work.

Clutch will engage a few times then stop.

Hello, There must be a code set in memory that is preventing the normal operation of the system. To enter self- diagnostics:

Turn the key to ON, then press and hold climate control buttons OFF and WARMER at the same time until the display changes then release the buttons.

Watch the display and write down any code you see. Note: a display of 00 indicates no codes are stored.

After you have written down the codes you may want to clear them. To clear the codes enter self-diagnostics mode and wait for the system to be in EEC CODE and STATUS LIGHT display mode. Press the LO button three times and you should see 03C on the control assembly display. Pressing the LO button again will return the display to 01C (EEC DATA LIST mode). Pressing the HI button will clear the codes.

The word "TEMP" will appear on the display when all codes are clear. Press AUTO to exit diagnostics.

Start the engine and turn the system ON and to your choice of setting.

What codes did you record in writing when using the above steps?

Run the system until a code resets and the system switches to ECON as before. Check for codes and advise. We will deal with codes that reset.

Roger

Thanks i will do this now

Great, Please advise your findings.

Roger

Dude! you ROCK! at first there were no codes....came up 00 so I did the Lo button then the Hi and presto we got A/C! Thank you!

1991 Buick Park Avenue Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I have a 1991 Park Avenue with everything electrical. Accessories are on a timer that allows their operation for a short time after the ignition is turned off. The automatic headlights are on a separate timer. Recently when the ignition is turned off all the accessories sometimes quit working immediately. When this happens nothing gets power including the overhead lights and the headlights that should no be dependent on the ignition. After sitting for a while sometimes the electrical system bergins working normally. I suspect a bad relay, but have no idea which one or where it may be located.

Hi, The feature you are referring to is called Retained Accessory Power (RAP).

I believe you will find a relay panel below the right side of the dash. There are two RAP Relays. One is relay "E" and the other is relay "J" in the panel.

Relay "E" is the one closest to the two 10 amp fuse slots 1 & 2. Relay "J" is the one on the other row of relays as far from the fuses as posible.

If you have an owners manual it should guide you. If you need a diagram, please advise your email address.

Roger

Thanks, at least I know where to look for the relays. Yes, a diagram might be nice. The owners manual is absolutely no help. It appears that at present the only circuit on the car that has power is the warning buzzer that warns of a key left in the ignition. Nothing else, including the ignition has poser. My email is [redacted]

I'll get you a drawing of the relay panel and send it along. What else may I do for you?

Please advise,

Roger

I received the drawing. While I was waiting, I fiddled with a couple of fuses to no immediate effect. I went to supper and when I returned the electrical system had returned to normal. I am sure the problem will appear again, but do not know when.

I understand. Please let me know when I can help. There is no hurry.

Roger

1991 Buick Park Avenue Fuel System   

The car blows the 20 amp fuse, location #6 just behind the glovebox. It is marked fuel pump. As soon as the ignition switch (key) is turned to the on position W/O cranking. Note this was after the f/pump change.
Back ground, the ignition power pack was changed, along with the plug wires for a described intermittent miss.
The fuel pump was changed due to the fuse #6 blowing intermittently. The car ran fine after the fuel pump change for approx. 45 minutes, then the direct short problem started blowing the fuse. I disconnected the fuel pump connector @ the fuel tank, the connector @ the ignition control module. With each fuse change ,the key turned to on resulted in a blown fuse. Additionally, during the fuse changing no arcing or audiable arc to ground was noted. It's dark on the side of the road , in the country.
I have no electrical schematic to work from so I don't know whats in the circut. I do realize that the next item to disconnect is the fuel relay. Location please? Any suggestions would be great. The car is on the charger wright now, weak battery.
Where can I find information on fuel injection systems and ignition systems. Haynes, chilton are to basic. Can you also recommend a OBDII checker for codes and a analizer. My background is working as a helicopter mechanic. That about does it. I'm trying to fix this car for my 76 year old Mom. Thanks for the help.

Haynes has a book specifically for injection systems.If that is too generic, try looking for a GM model specific set of books on E Bay.I picked up a 3 volume set for my Grand Prix for a very reasonable amount.
As for your fuel pump fuse blowing, I would trace the wiring from back to front, literally examining every inch of wiring as it sounds like a short in the fuel pump main power wiring.Or just run a new wire for pump.Usually the main wires are located under the edge of the carpet, under the sill plate moulding.
The best Scanner diagnostic tool is my Snap On one.Again good deals can be found for one on E Bay.

The relay is located behind the glovebox ans is part of a bank of relays. I believe it is #6.Send me a note to

[redacted]

and I will reply with a pic of a wiring diagram.
Bruce

I'll be looking to locate the relay. I saw them last night. Looking forward to the schmetic

require your email address to send wiring diagram.Cannot send it via this All Parts link
[redacted]

[redacted]

The relay is located under the dash right side. On the fuse relay block you should see Fuse 8 (10 amp). Above this should be Fuse 4 (25 amp, the only 25 amp in the box). The closest relay to Fuse 4 should be the interior lamps relay (labeled F, pull and see if the lights go out).The relay you want will be 2 places above the lamps relay and should be designated with an H.

Unplug the relay. Does the fuse blow? The gray wire goes from the relay to the pump.

What would you like to be able to do with your OBD2 code scanner? Will basic code checks and monitoring sensor values be enough? What vehicles do anticipate using it on? Is price the main objective?

Subcriptions are available to Alldata and Mitchell for the do-it-yourselfer. Alldata is about $25 for one year. Mitchell is about $12 for a week (they have changed their pricing format... aprox). Either would be good, edge to Alldata as they include everything they have, lasts longer and the second vehicle. These are the two leading repair info providers to independent garages.

www.alldatadiy.com

http://www.eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp

I just checked and the prices I gave are a little off, but same range.

Give us an update.

1991 Buick Park Avenue Heating / Cooling System   

I have a 1991 Buick Park Avenue with the automatic dual comfort temp climate control with the electronic touch system, When ever i turn on the A/C the economy button automatically comes on with it and the air is never cooled. I used to be able to hit the auto button and the a/c would come on but now only the economy button will turn on. please help! it is hot and only getting hotter!

Hello, The system is designed to keep the compressor offline if the system is low on freon. A code may set indicating low freon.

Has your a/c been converted to or already using the refrigerant R-134a?

Does your car have a history of a rapid clicking sound when the a/c was working? This would often be caused by compressor piston rings failing.

Try disconnecting the car battery and reconnect to clear codes. Try the a/c again. Does it cool now but not well?

Please advise,

Roger

Back after my grand son's T Ball game

The a/c has been converted and it was converted 2 years ago. there was never any clicking sound or anything that sounded troublesome. i will attempt the reset and see if that does allow it to cool.

Thank you. There is a chance it is just low on refrigerant, or a compressor low pressure cycling switch needs to be replaced.

When I hear what your findings are I can guide you to diagnose the problem. I am not suggesting any parts be replaced yet.

Roger

I just reset it and the a/c is not cooling well, i went to wal-mart and bought an a/c recharger and now it works great! Thank you so much for all your help!

Great! Ready to close the question? Please click on OK to finish up.

I thank you,

Roger

1990 Buick Park Avenue Electrical / Lighting Systems   

WHERE ARE THE FUSE BOXES LOCATED ON A 1990 BUICK PARK AVENUE

Hello, Open the drivers door. Look at the left end of the dash and locate two black buttons (one above the other). These are the fasteners for the fuse panel cover.

Push in gently on each button and rotate until it pops out by spring pressure. With both fasteners released, you'll find the "wood" trim plate that doubles as the fuse panel cover will lift out on the left end. Slide it 1/4 inch to the left so the trim plate tabs will pull out of the slots they are slipped into.
There are your fuses. Reassembly is reverse procedure.

Questions?,

Roger

Why would you release the question without even having any dialog with me? The last thing I said was "Questions?".

What gives?

Roger

I KNOW WHERE THAT FUSE BOX IS. i NEED TO KNOW WHERE THE FUSE BOX FOR THE MAIN COMPUTER IS?

Your question was written:

WHERE ARE THE FUSE BOXES LOCATED ON A 1990 BUICK PARK AVENUE".

During business hours tomorrow I can access a data base that will tell us which fuse powers the engine control module. Will you allow me the time to access the data base tomorrow?

Please let me know, or release the question and roll the dice. It is after 11:00 p.m. here.

Roger

I should be able to access the Mitchell I Auto Repair Data Base after 9:00 a.m. CST today 01/10/2006.

Thanks,

Roger

Fuse #17 (10 amp) in the dash fuse panel powers the engine control module.

There is a Relay Panel under the right side of the dash near the kick panel. The engine control module is also in that same area.

Would you ike for me to fax or email some drawings for your review? If so, please advise where to send them.

What are you trying to fix?

Thanks,

Roger

Any news here? How can I help?

Roger

Please update the question's status. What else can I do for you?

Thanks,

Roger

1990 Buick Park Avenue Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I rolled my windows down half way and now they will not come back up. All fuses are good and door locks and other electrical works. What could be the problem?

Are all windows dead from all switches, or just from the drivers door (master switch)?

All doors.

Am I still waiting your response?

I am still waiting on a response. Please advise

I am not sure if anyone is working on this but if not, send me a refund or is this a joke?

Sorry, I lost internet service for a about a day.

Do you still want help, or have you already repaired the problem?

To get a refund simply email the site administrator, he will issue you a refund. If you don't already have his email address, let me know and I'll send it.

I'll release your question in the event you still want help, and I'm not available when you reply.

Hi, Have you accessed the driver's door master switch to determine if power is arriving at the switch with the key on?

The color of the power wire will be Pink. Since ALL power windows get their power through the driver's power window master switch this is the best place to start.

Please advise,

Roger

I finally found the black ground wire broke in half.

I waited to see if you had power and was then going to suggest you look in the flex boot between the driver's door hinges for a broken wire. This is common on cars in service this many years and is most often the driver's door flex boot because this door has the higher open/close cycle frequency.

Where did you find the break in the ground wire?

Did you look for any other wires showing signs of flex fatigue?

Roger

IN the boot. Thanks

Will you please accept my answer so that All Parts will pay me?

If so, please close the question or click on the OK TO PAY MECHANIC button.

I thank you,

Roger

Hello, please click on OK to finish up.

Roger

1990 Buick Park Avenue All Part Groups   

First of all the car has 221,000 miles on it. It all started one day when it was running like crap, so i gave it a bunch of gas and the check engine light came on. Ever since then it wont start worth a crap. You start it and let it turn a few times, turn the key off and try it again, sometimes it takes 3-4 times before it finally starts. I took it to a mechanic to put it on the computer, they said it was the cam sensor. I bought a new one yesterday and put it on, unhooked the battery while i was doing it. Hooked up the battery and it didn't change anything. The hormonic balancer was making allot of noise, so i put a new one on before this. (just to let you know everything). It has been running crappy for the last year, it runs fine on flat roads, but when you go up a hill or something it starts stalling out, (kinda feels like fuel filter or something like that). Anyway, do you have any suggestions why it wont start worth a crap and the check engine light is on. I know its old with allot of miles on, but if its a cheap fix i want to fix it and keep driving it back and forth to work. (everything else is great on the car) any help or suggestions would be great

What engine do you have?
When was the last major tune up?
Have you had your fuel filter changed?
you will need to do a fuel pressure test to test the fuel flow and test out the fuel pressure regulator.

i changed plugs and wires about a year ago. I bought a fuel filter for it cause i thought maybe that was the cause, but i didn't have that special wrench so its still sitting in the box. where is the fuel pressure regulator at, and how do you test fuel pressure. Would that make the check engine light come on. thanks

yes a lot of things will set a check engine light and code.
You need to first change the fuel filter iot is vital.
The fuel rail has a port on it that equipped with a fuel pressure tester connection.
It looks like a metal air valve stem like you would see on a bicycle inner tube.

thanks, i'll put the new filter on. I looked for the valve stem on the fuel lines yesturday, but couldn't find it.

what engine do you have adnis it carbuerated or fuel injected?
The engines for that year where both
I need to know which one you have

3.8 or 3800 whatever you want to call it. fuel injected.

is it a full throttle body of individual fuel injectors

not sure, how do you tell. I don't know very much on fuel injected.

does it have one large openening that would resemble a carbuerator or does it have 6 little electric connections going to the wiring harness in a row going into the intake manifold?

ok, i found the little valve stem thing. I cranked it over for a few seconds, then i pushed the little needle in and gas shot out of it. I seems that there's pressure there, don't know how much though

Ok that is a good thing , did you instalkl a new fuel filter yet

no, im at work. i will tomorrow. If that doesn't work what should i try next. thanks for the help

you need to get a fuel pressure tester to see how many psi you have from the pump

have any idea how much i should have. And do i check it at idle or what

It should be at 25 to 35 starting and
it should be between 35 and 40 psi running, not fluctuating but steady between those marks.
Then you have 6 fuel injectors that have a connector at the top that pulls off
yuo will need to back-probe the injectors and check for a 12 volt pulse coming from the ECM.

i put the new fuel filter on, it didn't help. how do you back probe the injectors.

I think you need to try to scan for codes again and then ,clearing the codes once again, disconnect the pos batt cable for about 30 seconds and reconnect it.
Are you still getting the check engine light?
As I looked back on the post I noticed that the car is still starting it is just hard starting and running bad. let us start with seeing if that error is still there or any other stored codes.

the check engine light is still on. Once i get it started it runs good except when you give it a bunch of gas when taking off. It will act like its going to die, then take off.

Another item to check might be the fuel filter. It might have enough gas moving through it to idle okay, but when accelerated, it cuts out because the volume of gas isn't there.
We need a fuel pressure test while the car is sitting you can accelerate to full throttle and see how much the meter moves down.

i changed the fuel filter on it. I was wondering if it wasn't the fuel pump.

It is a possibility and that is why a fuel pressure test is in order and if you can have the PCM scanned for stored codes to see if there has been a problem at component level , something should show up

1990 Buick Park Avenue Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I have lost use of power seat and door locks and rear window defroster functions. Have checked all fuses and relays. Power at drivers fuse panel doesn't get to relays behind glove box. Jumper from breaker fuse in drivers panel to supply side of defroster relay behind glove box will power up defroster when demanded by touch sensor switch on htr/ac panel. Light on that panel will power up and time out correctly without aformentioned jumper wire but defroster receives no power at relay or rear of car. Have checked for damaged/broken wires under carpeting on both sides of car found none. Have checked for main ground loss from engine/battery to body found no loss. Have checked for power at lock switches in doors and there is none. Same for seat switches. In case you haven't figured by now I have 30+ yrs professsional mechanic/dealership experience. Have researched oem wiring manual with no success. Any suggestions/answers will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Hello, Have you looked in the flex boot between the drivers door hinges for broken wires?

Roger

Yes, that was the first place I looked. I also tended to discount this since all the systems ceased to function at the same time and the rear defroster has no wiring in or out of the doors.

Interesting point on the rear defogger. I'm aware there is no wiring in the doors for that system.

Power windows power supply is switched hot by the ignition switch as is the rear defog. But power seats are hot at all times. I'm looking for the common link to these systems failing at the same time.

It might be tomorrow before I can get to a better data base than I have addess to from home.

What is the fuse number for the rear defog 25 amp fuse please?

Roger

Roger

25amp fuse is in #7 position and 30amp breaker is in #24 position. #7 says for ac, level control, &rear defogger. #24 says for seats, locks, defogger, and trunk lid pulldown (my car doesn't have elec trunk pulldown).

I've arranged to pick up a factory shop manual late this afternoon to get on track with you.

Roger

Okay, Let me know when you have an idea. I'm not very impressed with oem electrical manual as it requires one to jump from system to system and page to page to try to find where common connections are. I will be unavailable Sat and most of Sun but will check back tonight (Fri) and again on Sun Eve. Thanks

I'd like to beg your patience while I study this situation.

Fuse #7 and those above and below it are switched hot from the ignition switch via an orange wire. If I understand you correctly there is NO problem with any of the fuses or circuit breakers. All have power and the fuse is hot on both terminals meaning we are to expect power leaves each fuse or breaker and flows out of the fuse box to the wiring harness.

Thanks,

Roger

p.s. I too have 30 years of automotive and aircraft experience. I retired from a Cadillac Buick Oldsmobile dealership in 2000. I will do my best to help you.

Correct. The jumper wire I used to power up the rear def I ran from the load side of the fuse panel (#24 breaker-30amp)to the supply side of the defogger relay (Relay "C" on relay center panel) behind the glove box. This resulted in ability to use defroster but didn't power anything else up. With or without the jumper the touch switch on ac panel would work and time out properly. Not getting technical, just trying to be specific to assist in diagnosis.

Remove the right front door opening step plate and pull the carpet away from the rocker to expose the wiring loom.

There are several connectors buried in the loom and the third one from the front of the door opening is connector C308. It has Black/Orange wires only. (As many as ten of them depending on equipment installed.)

C308 terminal A is the power supply to all circuits on the connector. This is the common link to all of the systems that have failed on the car you are working on.

Please advise,

Roger

How are you doing here please?

Roger

Sorry for the delay. Been one disaster after another here the last couple days complete with flooded house and broken water lines and vehicle breakdowns compounding things. Got your message about connector 308. Went looking for it once before without luck. Will try again probably Tues afternoon when I get off work. Thanks for your patience.

C308 is merely a buss bar with terminal A being the power feed from the load side of the circuit breaker in the fuse box position #24.

It will probably appear as a bump taped to the surface of the harness bundle. It is drawn on the graphic as the third bump from the front of the right front door opening as the harness makes it's way along the rocker area.

Roger

Again sorry for the delays. Still battling "emergencies". Will try Thursday (13th) to check out C308. Thanks for your patience.

Take the time you need.

Roger

Roger, Thanks ever so much. C308 was the problem. It ended up being the second instead of third connector. There were actually four connectors but the fourth has only one wire that is a dead end. I took out all three of the others as they were all in trouble. C308 was badly corroded and also melted out in two of its connector slots. Lucky it didn't start on fire by the looks of it. All three removed buss connectors are now replaced by soldered shrink insulated connections and retaped into main harness. Again thanks ever so much for your assistance and sorry to have dragged this out so long. Your patience also has been greatly appreciated. Larry

Great job. I feel like we could easily work together anytime.

To close the question please click on OK to finish up.

I thank you!

Roger

1990 Buick Park Avenue Electrical / Lighting Systems   

My stock Bose stereo works fine for about 2 seconds after turning it on, then the music fades into (what can best be described as) electronic garbage. I've checked all four of my speaker amps out, and they appear to be fine: no burnt capacitors, etc. Any ideas?

Hello, does this fade to garbage happen on both AM and FM radio stations?

Roger

Yes, it does it no matter if it's a tape, or either radio band

Try disconnecting all of the speakers. Turn the radio on. Plug speakers in one at a time. How far do you get before the sound fades?

Trial and error may help identify the trouble this way.

Roger

Has this car been fixed? Please update.

Thanks,

Roger

1989 Buick Park Avenue Ignition System   

Thekey is broke off in theignition. How do we get it out? Do we need to remove the ignition switch and if so how?

Hello,

Have you considered calling a locksmith? He will have some trick tools and I believe save you some grief.

If you instead you want to do it yourself please advise. It will require replacing the ignition lock cylinder in the column.

To do this will require removing the steering wheel and lifting the turn signal switch up for access to the lock cylinder below.

Roger

Has this car been fixed? Please update.

Thanks,

Roger

1989 Buick Park Avenue Ignition System   

when i turn the key and attempt to start the car the 20 amp fuse blows. I have changed the fuel pump and it still does it. any ideas.

Hello,

Which fuse is this? Is this ECM A or B fuse? Check the wiring to pump and the fuel injectors.

there are three fuses in a row on the passenger side buy the right kick just in front of the computer there are also 5 relays. the middle fuse is 20 amps and it continues to blow

There are several 20 a fuses in the car.
If it is indeed the fuel pump fuse, check the wiring for shorts in the gas tank area.
If all the wiring is fine, either test the fuel pump relay with a known good one.
When you installed the pump, was there a possability the wires were put on incorrectly? That would guarantee fuses blowing

I know ther areseveral 20 amp fuses in the car but the only 20 amp fuse on the right side "passengerside" I believe is the fuel pump. I could be wrong all I know is when I try to turn the key it blows the fuse. I dont have a diagram so i dont know for sure. all i do know is that the fuel pump does not supply fuel and the amount of voltage that goes threw that fuse bank is hot enough to make a paper clip glow.

please help

Something is definatly shorting out.Either the wires going to the fuel pump or the pump itself. Try disconnecting the + pos wire near the pump. Run a wire straight to battery. If there is still a short at the pump you will find out. If pump works fine with 'jumper wire; then carefully trace the wire back to the front of the car.Hooking up 12v directly to pump will tell you if its ok (even new ones are sometimes bad)

I need to know what brelay controls the 1989 buick park avenue fuel pump. I ran a wire to the fuel pump and it is working fine but I tested the wires that feed it power and the one that is for 12 volts is grounded so I hope it is just a relay. I removed all the relays from the right panel and the fuse and it still is still shorted. so i hope it is located some place else.

Ok ifound out which relay it was, on the right fuse bank there are 5 relays and the one in the middle on the far right is the culpret. It goes where. I traced one of the wires to the computer middle connection. can i reset the computer or what do i need to do I can unplug the terminal from the computer and the short goes away or at least the fuse doent blow.

It will be tedius, but you have to trace the wiring back to the pump.See if there is any frayed wire(s). Sometimes, I just take a short cut and just run a new wire to pump.

your not going to believe this! I found the culpret. My car is used and the previouse owner had put a piece of cat 5 wire on the oil sensor, I guess he was checking for presure with an external gauge. I dont know but after tracing all wires i found this wire and i removed it, apparently it was shorting out on the fram under the rack and pinion. Anyway thanks for all your help. email me back and let me know what you think. [redacted]

Ran into a similar problem years ago.
I was working on a truck that only
blew the running lights under a load
or on steep hills.Normal driving they worked fine....
The culprit in that case was the previous owner had added an additional wire for a map light. The wire was routed along the firewall under the dash under the gas pedal. Insulation was worn through...gas pedal floored = short.
In your case the oil press guage is wired into the fuel pump circuit. If you were to inadvertantly wrap the car around a telephone pole and were knocked unconsious, the engine would stall, the oil press would drop and the fuel pump would shut off. A safety device that stops the fuel pump from pumping gas all over the accident scene. Glad you found it...one does not expect added wires dangling around!

Thanks for all your help Clifton lynch

1988 Buick Park Avenue Drive Train / Driveline  When driving Always

Hi! I drive a Buick Park Avenue 3.8 V6 front wheel drive. Suddenly I was losing 100 KM mileage per tankful of gas. On the dash, a red light came on. The Diagnostician said it was a code 41: a cam shaft sensor. He changed out the cam shaft sensor and almost immediately the red light came on again: code 41. He said it might be the related magnet on the camshaft that dislodged. He said the Buick would work with the existing magnet on the crankshaft, but it runs rough and I've lost the fuel economy. Another mechanic said not to tear down the engine unless the cylinder compression was low, as he's seen many engines come through a rebuild much the worse for the effort. I love the car. What do you suggest: more diagnostics, a rebuild, or leave it as is?

Where can I find a drawing of a Buick Park Avenue 3.8 V6 front wheel drive engine showing the installation of the camshaft sensor and of the related magnet installed on the camshaft?

Thanks for your help. Sincerely, Ralph Neumann

Hi Ralph,
I do not have the photo you are looking for, but I believe I can help you with your problem. The first thing we must do is to make sure about what the problem is. There is a magnet on the camshaft gear whch triggers the cam sensor. These magnets commonly fail by falling out of their holder. The holder is a plastic socket that holds them in a hole in the cam gear. The best way to check for this is to remove the cam sensor, turn the engine slowly by hand while feeling through the sensor hole with a finger to feel the magnet, or you can use a mirror to look for the magnet. It the magnet is missing, or not protruding from the gear, it CAN be felt with your finger. The repair for this is to remove the timing cover, remove the chain and cam gear, install a new magnet and holder and reassemble.
I highly recommend replacing the timing chain and both gears when the cover is off, because thye commonly fail after 100,000 miles. If the chain or sprocket fails, you WILL need a tow truck.
In the event that the magnet is fine, then the wiring from the cam sensor to the ignition module needs to be checked, or the module will need to be replaced. Most likely it is the magnet.
Best wishes,
Dale Charles
P.S. Replacing the timing chain is not like rebuilding the engine.

Hi, Thank you very much for your full and complete response! Much appreciated! I asked this question for a friend of mine, a former Hungarian MiG pilot who defected with his wife through the barbed wire and minefields from Hungary to Austria in 1974. I'll discuss it with him, but I believe your answer is worth more than $10. If we decide to double up, where can we send the nother $10?

Cheers,

Ralph

My name is Dale Charles, phone [redacted] .
My address is 295 Ridgewood Ave, Brooklyn,NY 11208
email [redacted]
I run a repair shop that was featured this month in MOTOR magazine. You can see it online at

http://www.motor.com/MAGAZINE/Pdf/082003_01.pdf

http://members.iatn.net/cgi-bin/s.plex?p=/pages/dale_charles.html

1988 Buick Park Avenue Engine Leaking Happens always Always

Recently my engine really starting leaking a fluid, orange, either antifreeze or power steering, i heard a pop while driving and than it was really hard to turn the steering wheel. I pulled over and there was a log of fluid sprayed all over the engine and the belt had slipped off. I took it to a buick dealership and the told me it was the water pump. My car is an 88 and has 240,000 mi on it. I want to install the water pump myself, to save the $500 dollars they were going to charge me. How hard will this be and how do i do it?

$500? Wow, it's amazing the prices some places will charge.

autozone.com has free instructions with illustrations.
Highlight, Edit, Copy, and Paste this link into your address bar (these instructions are for the front wheel drive 3.8 V6)

http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=az/cds/en_us/[redacted] d/80/15/dc/1[redacted] dc18.jsp

1983 Buick Park Avenue Fuel System   

car hard to start up when car starts up lots of black smoke comes out of the exhaust. runs rough till it warms up run smooth

Hi, what engine please? Carb or fuel injection?

If carb, it sounds like the auto-choke pull off is not working.

Roger