Buick Regal

2003 Buick Regal Ignition System Won't Start When starting No pattern

Car wont do anything when I turn the key?

Does the dash lights come on? If they don't you need to check the headlights. If neither come on check for a dead battery.

If lights come on but the engine don't crank you may have a problem with the security system.

Is the car out of warranty?

Everthing works inside and out! but when I turn the key all the way everthing go's quiet!

Problem could be ignition switch, safety switch, security system, or relay.

Will need to have the diagnostic trouble codes pulled from the PCM (computer). Use the trouble code(s) as a starting point.

2002 Buick Regal Engine   

Intake manifold had a hole burned through right behind the throttle body. Changed the intake but the engine has a miss, at around 1500 rpn when cold and gets a little better when warm. Warm it will reach 2500rpm before the miss happens. scanned the engine. the only fault code was for missfire. I replaced the plugs and wires, the ign. module and coil packs. The miss shows up on #3 and #6. #6 is about 4 times that of three. I have checked to see if the spark was breaking down under higher rpm. spark is ok. Checked injector harness for loss of voltage at higher rpm, again no problem there. I moved the #6 injector to a different position to see if the miss followed the inj. miss stayed on #6. Fuel pressure is normal and will increase if you unhook the vacuum line from the regulator. Checked for and found no vacuum leaks. Alternator output is in specs. Scanner indicates everything within the parameters for this engine. Engine will start normal. Engine was running bad just before the intake burned. I assume whatever is causing this miss had to contribute to the intake failure.

Was the only damage done to the upper intake manifold?

Was the lower intake replaced?

Damage was only to the upper intake. everything else was in good shape

In this case you always want to check cylinder compression to rule out a problem here.

Did any coolant get in the cylinders? Usually the egr tube melts the intake (not far from the throttle body).

Also remove the oil cap to see if there is any sucking or blowing with the engine idling.

Let me know and we'll go from there.

I thought of compression also. Problem is the scanner doesn't pick up mechanical misses, as in low compression from rings, or burnt valve. Scanners can only pick up electronic signals. Unless I'm overlooking something in this line of thought

Misfires will set when rpm's drop, regardless of the cause (electrical, mechanical). Just as in the case of a vacuum leak.

Ok got ya'. I'll check the compression and get back to you with the readings. Thanks for setting me straight

Compression readings are as follows.#1-115 #3-120 #5-120 #2-120 #4-115 #6-120

Did you get my last message? thought maybe it didn't come through.

Compression is consistant.

One other thing that sometimes happens with these is the a misfire code is set for the wrong cylinder. When wrong, it will be the companion cylinder on the coil.

Have you ruled out the lower intake gasket, these fail often enough.

I just ordered the lower gasket set. I'll change that and see what happens from there. It may be a couple of days before I can get back to you with the results.

I changed the lower intake gaskets, It didn't make any difference. Still acting the same way. Now I have something else going goofy. The tach needle is pointing straight down until I turn the key on. Then it turns clockwise and comes up against the pin. The goofy part is there's nothing I did changing the gaskets that had anything to do with the Tach. I know the cam sensor is working because I have a signal for rpm on my scanner.

Is the tach pegged when the engine is off, and pegs further when you start the engine?

I've never seen this with the tach but have with fuel gauges. It (supposedly) can happen if the battery is not reconnected quickly enough. My method of choice is to use a magnet to 'drag' the needle back up, if you choose this method do so at your own risk. The other option is to remove cover and reset the needle manually. On some vehicles you can reach in with a paper clip through the odometer reset hole and move the needle (I don't think this is applicable on your vehicle).

Did you rule out the companion (same coil) cylinder to number 6?

I thought maybe there was a broken valve spring on #6 cylinder. I pulled that valve cover and found nothing broken. When the engine misfires, according to my scanner #6 misfires at least 10 times that of #3. They are the companion cylinders on the coil pack. Looking back on one of your comments, you said there's a possibility the companion cyl. could be causing the problem. Would this be true even though #6 is showing so many m ore misfires on the scanner. This is why I have been looking so hard at #6 cyl.

A misfire could be caused by a weak valve spring.That will not show up as a code, itself,and a compression test will not show that also.

I agree with that. Is it possible that #3 is actually causing the problem and just showing #6 as missing more on the scanner. I have been concentrating heavy on #6. maybe I'm looking at the wrong cyl here.

It should be setting more codes? Do you have scanner hookrd up while driving?

Or a cam lobe that is worn down?

I just tried checking the timing chain and gears. I pulled the front cover, and everything look like it's supposed to. I have seen timing chains cause wierd thing to happen. Before I did this,I had it running to check vacuum. At idle it held 15hg steady. When I increased the throttle to where it missed the vacuum dropped as it should and had a small fluctuation. The MAP is responsible for change in intake vacuum, and sends this signal to the PCM to change timing and fuel delivery. Could the MAP be screwing up without setting a code, and could it affect only one cyl. In answer to your comment about cam lobes. I had the valve covers off and watched the movement of the rockers. They are all moving the same distance up and down.

A map sensor can fail without setting a code.I had several do that, including one that got so bad the car was not driveable.
The map does read the vacuum, and send signal to ecm, which in turn affects timong.
With separate coils, one might be getting incorrect signal.

I pulled both valve covers to watch the valve operation. they are working like they should. I replaced the MAP sensor and this didn't make any difference. I keep thinking there's something in the timing of the spark or fuel. This thing will idle smooth, and when the rpm is increased and starts to miss, there is a definate, not loud popping sound from the air cleaner box. Kind of a fluttering sound. This goes away when brought back to idle. I made a plate to block off the egr ports thinking maybe it was sucking air in through there. Again this made no difference. I don't know if this will help, but about 2 months ago the car was driven about 40 miles and it started the loss of power thing. It straightened out in less than a 1/4 mile. It ran ok until three weeks ago. It was taken on a trip. About 3 miles to the interstate it started again, and immediatly started the problem again. It cleared up again in a short distance. It was driven about 120 miles and this time it didn't clear up. When the car got back, it had a hole burned through the plastic intake right behind the throttle body. Looking at the intake the hole was directly above where the egr tube feeds into the intake. I believe whatever happened caused the engine to run lean and got hot enough that there was super heated air going through the egr tube to the intake. I can't figure what in the system would cause this problem on one cyl and not the rest. I used propane around the intake gaskets to see if maybe when I changed the gaskets I goofed them up. I was watching the fuel trim on the scanner and it didn't change. Now I'm looking for someone that has some c-4 to fix it proper. just a little frustrated.

When the battery and or the cpu disconnected, if the "relearn" procedure is not initiated, a random misfire will occur, even if car is driven awhile.
GM has a TSB re: that.

I found part of the problem. I had the engine running, was standing in front of the car and noticed spark jumping from a plug wire. To say I was pissed would be and understatement. These are new wires from NAPA. Their wires are Belden wires, which are supposed to be good. Before I can go any further I'm going to replace the wires. If this was the problem all along it would be a case of overlooking the trees for the forest. I'm going to look at that ser. bulletin also.

I have seen that brand plug wire quit fairly often.The most often any plug wires noticably misfire is winter when it is damp out.Glad it might be something simple! Buy the 'fattest' wire you can afford (MSD 8.8 etc) as they have more insulation.I also use a bit of silicone grease on the ends.

Just wanted to let you know I found the problem. I was down to just blowing the damn thing up, and thought I'd try something else. i disconnected the exhaust and found the problem was a stopped up converter. The engine came to life and revved without a miss. If you hear of anyone else with a hole burned in the intake you may want to suggest they look at the converter. After looking at the problem I was talking to a GM ser. manager and he said it was possible the plugged converter could have let super heated air go through the EGR valve when it opens and cause the intake to melt. He was going to have his technitians start looking at the converter whenever they get any more melted intakes. Thanks for all your help.

Essentially, you had multiple problems, the plug wire problem and the converter, I am glad it was resolved.The steady vacuum reading and the plugged cat was confusing.The multiple problems are the hardest, kinda like a tire with three nails in it.
The new cat will let the car pass emission testing too!

2000 Buick Regal Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

I have a buick regal lse. I have a vibration and noise as soon as you turn just right of center and continues all the time as long as the wheel is right of center. I replaced the wheel bearing (hub assembly) and just got new tires. If you turn left, no noise. The faster you go the worse it gets. Its just a strong "humming and vibration you can lightly feal more on the right side. And when pressing the brake going to a stop at 25 mph or so it is quite loud. The only thing else I can think of is possibly an unbalenced axle or a bearing in the tranny if there is one connected to the axle. Can anyone give me any idea to check?? It driving me nuts!!! PLEASE help!!! Thank you...

This is unusual problem.

Where is the vibration felt, in steering wheel, brake pedal, floor board, etc?

Start by checking the axle shaft, cv joints for any play.

Whenever you experience a vibration it is a good idea to rotate the tires to see if the noise moves.

Where is the vibration felt?

Do you have any chain stores (Monroe, Midas) that offer free estimates in your area? If there is a place like that in your area that is honest, it'd be worth considering.

The vibration is felt more on the floor, but you can feal it in the wheel and through out the car. With the windows rolled up the noise is worse then the vibration fealing. The tires and brand new as of today. Besides the hub assembly I replaced I figured the tires had to be the problem. everything is tight, no play in the wheel side to side of the ground and the tie rod ends and ball joints look good, no play. All in all I would have to say that the humming noise is worse than the vibration.

Hello, Which hub bearing did you replace?

Roger

I replaced the right side, that is whare and still is side the noise/vibration is comming from

When you reply to me please click on reply. You are releasing the question instead and it takes much longer to communicate.

Will the noise cease if you shut the engine off in the curve?

When turning right the weight of the car shifts left and the left side hub bearings carry the load.

Do you still have the hub bearing that was originally on the right front? I'd be tempted to install it on the left to see what effect it has.

I'm clear you stated the noise/vibration is on the right side of the car. Still I'd try a different left front hub bearing.

Roger

1999 Buick Regal Fuel System Malfunction Happens sometimes No pattern

Fuel gauge goes from full to empty, light beeps and everything no matter what level of gas is in the car. It happens when I start and even while I'm driving. There are 6 beeps and the airbag lights up six time when I start it is this a code for the problem?

Diagnostic equipment is required to access codes. Many chain autoparts stores, Autozone, Parts America, Advance, etc will access codes free of charge. I'm not sure if they have the capability to pull body codes- call ahead. If they cannot pull the codes you'll have to pay a shop to at least get the codes.

GM products in general have had their fair share of problems with sender modules in the fuel tank.

1999 Buick Regal Ignition System   

3.8 V6 drives (drove) great. It's "her car". Drove home, I was taking to station for low tire light issue. Would not start. Cranks fine. Lights all come on. Seems to want to run suspect lack of fuel or control for it. I mess with cars heve 3 others in different stages of (dis)repair. So I have a basic understanding of spark or fuel. Just need to identitfy the suspects. thanks Andrew Pedersen

There is a test valve on the fuel rail by the throttle body.Requires a guage hooked up,
First determine if fuel/spark issue.
Check for codes, even if check engine light not on.Might be sensor

great, I will give it a test & let you know how it shakes out.

ok boss you ready? Got Actron CP9175. Ran test,key on engine off. -0- codes ran test for sensors all sensors present read OK all others N/A. checked maintainence / emissions all OK.

So unplugged tester. Car started right up. No problem. Now remember the part about "her car" I need you to give me a " positronic recalcitrator" story cuz she is going to be NERVOUS if I tell the we have to wait until the damn sensor breaks before I can find which one it is ..............

Oh shut car off re ran tests still nada. Old cars are better when they break they stay broken.

I will survey the guys at the parts stores to see if anyone had this white elephant before.

andrew

I have seen codes, come and go befre.Sometimes they never come back. You can either clear codes with a scanner or disconnect batt. for a minute.
Old cars simpler, new ones better when they work?

There were -0- codes to delete should I clear them anyway? This is Monday am I have driven Buick every day with no problems starting or otherwise. Great car to drive.

So is my evaluation accurate? That at some time in the future the "weak link" will drop out & I will know, or find the real problem. Is a vapor lock possible? It was a hot day AC was on.

I was expecting more old school wisdom from you. Any hourly employee at Autozone can read codes.

Old cars are cheaper to fix, insure & much harder to let go of when the time comes.

andrew

Andrew, fuel inj cars do not get vapor lock because the regulator is recurculating gas back to tank, no hot gas or vapor lock can happen.
If she is nervous, you might want to swap cars for a day or two, then you might see symptoms that she missed.

OK I learned something. Thanks The only difference I have noticed is some times it cranks 2-3 times before it starts other times 4-5. wise it's great. So that brings me back to I am waiting for the weak link to show itself?

That's a question.

My amatuer opinion says there is a weak component(sensor) that had an open long enough to interupt the starting sequence. Since the computer (ecu) is in charge & they operate on really small electrical energy. My guess is that once it got knocked out it took a while to re set that's why it started after it sat overnight.

As there are no MIL on running the Actron test would show -o- again.

I did successfully re set the low tire sensor!


Thanks for your help

I have a Grand Prix that I drive fairly regularly that occasionally would not start.
It was never regular and there were no codes.It progressed to not starting hot, after a drive (had to let it sit for a few hours)to starting whenever it felt like, to stalling on way to work, to not starting at all. Still no codes.After much tsting and diagnosis, it turned out to be the Crank Position sensor.
Just something to think about.

1998 Buick Regal Electrical / Lighting Systems   

The car runs beautifully, but without warming the engine dies, whether idling or moving along the street. The dashboard lights come on, I lose power steering, the lights go out and the engine dies. I must put the car in park to start it up again. It starts up immediately. Occasionally the speedometer "whirrs," jumps to 90 mph, then falls back to normal. There is no logic or regularity when the engine will die.

This sounds as if it could be one or two of several things, a sensor thats located on your transmission. Sometimes called a VSS (vehicle speed sensor) this often goes bad causing stalling and dying. The part is located in front of the car, on transmission with a rather large connector. Unhooked the car will run but not get the correct gas mileage and service engine light will fluctuate. The problem could also be a dirty mass airflow, which is right off of your air cleaner, gunk and cob webs can get lodged in there causing the fuel injection to act wanky. Cleaned and a new airfilter sometimes do wonders. Im thinking the problem is more than likely in your sensors though. Hook it up to a diagnostic trouble reader available for use free at many parts stores, Get the code and go from there, Or if taking it to a shop use the information that Ive given you to lead the mechanic to the correct diagnosis.

1996 Buick Regal Electrical / Lighting Systems  When starting 

I just recharged my air conditioner with the R134a kit but I had to take off the air filter harness to get to the condensor valve so I can refill it with the refrigerant. While running the engine my service engine soon light comes on and now it won't go off after I put the harness back on. I have an ODBII reader but I do not know where to hook up the data link connection to turn the indicator off. Can you help me out??

The data link connector is under the dash near the steering column. The check engine light will remain on until either the codes are cleared or the computer sees that everything is OK for a long enough time. I do not know if your code reader also clears codes. Without using any special equipment, you can clear the code by disconnected the battery, or removing the memory fuse. OR you can just drive the car several days and the light will turn out by itself.

1996 Buick Regal Chassis / Suspension & Steering Making Noise When driving 

I have a 1996 Buick Regal. A few months ago, while driving the car and particularly driving on bumpy roads. I had all the struts changed. The technician had a hard time refitting two of the struts. He said the reason it was banging back and forth was because instead of the strut fitting in a round supporting hole, it was being supported by an oval shaped hole. He replaced the strut and then put something around the strut to hold it in place. It work temporary, but now the noise is back! Can this be repaired? If so, how and can this be repaired? If not, is there an alternative solution. Thank you.

I assume this was up at the top of the strut. Look at your repair order and see if new strut bearings were installed also. It sounds like either the wrong parts were installed previously or a damaged strut bearings were not replaced. If it is above the bearings (the support to the body) and the incorrect strut/bearing is not installed, this is not normally repairable. You could contact a ruputable auto body repair shop in your area and see if they have any professional repair prodecures for this problem (stay away from 'togglers' as this makes the car dangerous to drive, as it is now).

1996 Buick Regal Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

Power steering quit working all of a sudden ! Can't find filler tank and don't know if there is even one on the car. It's my daughter's car. Main belt is working fine,power steering pulley is rotating properly,and I don't see any fliud leeking anywhere! Is rack and pump a sealed unit together ? Is there a filler tube located somewhere I don't know about on 1996 buick regals ?

there is a resevior that can be purchased at some autoparts stores and definately at a dealership it bolts up to the pump depending on weather you have a 3.1 or a 3.8 it will be different
I hope this helps

Hi,
Where is the resevior located on 3.8 motor for the power steering ? Can't semm to find where it is !

Jan 25/07 4:00PM: "Hi,
Where is the resevior located on 3.8 motor for the power steering ? Can't sem to find where it is !Why would power steering quit all of a sudden ? Belt is still in place ! I'm asking about location of the resevior so I can check if the fluid is completely gone or not.If the fluid is gone I know what to do.













/




/

Y es I am with you the problem is there is supposed t6o be a res right on top of the pump
It is missing itn attacches to the pump cost about $144.00 and part $[redacted]
It may have broken off and that is why it quit all of a sudden

Hi,
Thanks for your patience and I do now understand what and where the problem is now.

you are welcome I hope you can get it all taken care of

1996 Buick Regal Electrical / Lighting Systems   

My car will not always start. I have a new battery and a new alternator and both have been tested as good. All fuses are OK. This is intermittent with no obvious pattern. It happens in any weather conditions, any time of day, several (two or three) times a day or will start for days at a time. When it doesn't start, it is either dead with no noise or a loud clicking. When I jump it off, it chugs a few times before it starts. Does this seem like an electrical wiring problem between the alternator and battery? 1996 Buick Regal Gran
Sport, 3.8L.

Thanks for your help,

Al Bradbury

Al, It apperars more of a battery cable (or cable end) problem, between the battery and the starter.Ensure the battery is 100% charged before testing.
Even though the alt and battery are new, I would still have them tested. When I replaced alternators with rebuilt units., I still tested them after, as occasionally I would get a bad one.
That, compiled with a high amperage alternator placed in thr rear of the engine with no airflow, has been always a recipe for disaster!
Also, an intermittent no start issue (with no codes) can be a crankshaft position sensor, but that will not affect cranking.

I had the battery and alternator tested after installation - I'll test them again. Isn't there wiring between alternator and battery? Is the starter in that loop? I was told with the loud clicking, starter was probably OK. What about solenoid. Is there a control module of some sort? When I was checking the fuses I saw several relays in each fuse box. Would they be a culprit? Also the alternator is located on top of engine to the left (passenger side). Would the diagnostic test ad one of the parts places be of any use? Thanks again - Al
Sorry for this barage of questions!!

Feb 18/08 6:59AM: "I had the battery and alternator tested after installation - I'll test them again. Isn't there wiring between alternator and battery? Is the starter in that loop? I was told with the loud clicking, starter was probably OK. What about solenoid. Is there a control module of some sort? When I was checking the fuses I saw several relays in each fuse box. Would they be a culprit? Also the alternator is located on top of engine to the left (passenger side). Would the diagnostic test ad one of the parts places be of any use? Thanks again - Al
Sorry for this barage of questions!!"

Your Regal uses a Theft Deterrent Relay (unsure of location) that is located in the wire between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid. (which is located on the starter)The alternator has two rust colored fuseable links (20 ga)a 15 A fuse at the end of a brown wire in the underhood fuse panel. Also a 10A fuse in the main fuse block. There is a wire that goes from the Alt to the starter (via one of the fuseable links).My manual indicates it is NCA (no color allocated), but perhaps the fuseable link has failed or the wire conection at the starter is at fault.There is a secondary wire off the alt to the main power distribution block, which in turn goes back to starter via a black wire.
Yes, Parts place diagnostics ok.

1995 Buick Regal Electrical / Lighting Systems   

Occasionally it will not start. All warning lights work but nothing in the start position. Suspected security system. Turned ignition system to run and attached a remote starter button to starter solonoid. The vehicle started but died a few seconds later. Tryed the ignition switch again. Now it starts and runs fine. This could be a real problem at Wal-Mart.

Hi There is a good chance that the ignition lock cylinder wiring harness is failing.

There are two small guage wires made into the ignition lock cylinder that deliver the value of the chip in your ignition key to the security system module. If one or both of these wires breaks the car won't start.

Sometimes the tilting of the steering column can improve the connection if only a few of the wire strands have broken so far.

Tilting of the column can also break the weakened wire strands and leave you stranded until the ignition lock cylinder and keys are replaced.

Your thoughts please?,

Roger

1995 Buick Regal Fuel System   

FUEL PUMP SEEMS TO BE WORKING {humming} NEW gas filter CAR WON't start always SOMETIMES TAKES 6-8 cranks

Does it have the 3.8 or 3.1?

Sometimes you have to go back to the basics.
Last time tune up?
If not in the last 6 months or so, a fresh set of spark plugs and a bottle or two of injector cleaner in the gas tank will be a good idea.
Fuel pump should be ok, as they either work or do not, nothing in between.

1993 Buick Regal Ignition System Malfunction When stopped 

My vehicle sat for 3wks, I tried to start & could not, not even a click from the starter. When I tried to remove the key from the ignition I could not??? HELP

Sounds like your battery could be completely dead. First, turn the key on, then try shifting the transmission through the gears. Put it back in park firmly and turn the key off. Make sure the key is turned the whole way off, but not in the accessory position. That should do the trick. If not, connect a booster, or a jump and see if that makes any difference. If not, you will need to remove the lock cylinder from the steering column (not for the faint of heart).

1993 Buick Regal Ignition System Won't Start Happens always 

I have a 93 buick regal with the 3.8L V6. I recently over heated badly due to a radiator leak. I have replaced the radiator but now the car is really hard to start. When it does start it will not idle when it warms up. It seams to start easier when it is cold and has been setting for a long time. I have checked the fuel pressure and changed the spark plugs and wires. Could there be a sensor or two messed up?
Thanks for any help you can give. I don't have much money to pay you because I spent it all on the car so far. Sorry.

Greg

I have also changed the fuel filter.

I don't know how badly you overheated your vehicle,but it may be a warped head causing your problem.Check your engine oil to see if it is not a "chocolate" looking color.If it is,then yes you have a warped head or worst case senerio,a cracked block.The money is not an issue here for me,just trying to get people and they vehicles back in sync is fine with me.
Good Luck,
Paul

Thanks for your reply. The oil looks fine. Coolent levels are staying where they should. When the car does start there is nothing coming out of the exhaust. It seems to start eisier then before when it is cold and has been setting for a while. I bled the gas line up to the gas rail but I need to take off the rail and see how much gas its getting there.

Thanks for your help.
Greg

1991 Buick Regal Engine Won't Start Happens always 

I have a 91 Buick Regal with a 3800 engine -- 190,000 miles. The engine won't start. The fuel pump is new so is the pressure regulator. Fuel pressure is 50 psi at the fuel rail. The plugs are firing. However, the fuel pump is not starting for two seconds when the key is on. Swapped the fuel pump relay with others in the electrical center. No luck (Got the fuel pump to run by putting a jumper wire in the relay socket) I feel the problem is electrical, possibly the ECM, but not sure where to go next.

After the new fuel pump was put in, the car ran for an hour or so then quit.

The relay is a great place to do your testing from. Does the car run when the fuel pump is jumped? If so, then we only need to track down the control circuit.

Do you have power to the fuel injectors? Do they flash a noid light when cranking the engine?

Make sure you check the fuel pump fuse. A bad oil pressure switch can blow the fuel pump or ECM B fuse.

Does the check engine light come on when you turn the key on? Are there any codes stored?

At the relay, there should be power all the time on one wire. Opposite should run the fuel pump with a jumper. Another wire should be ground all the time. Its opposite wire is to be powered by the computer when the key is on or the engine is cranking.

Hope this helps.

The engine does not start when the fuel pump is powered by putting a jumper from the power terminal to the pump terminal in the fuel pump relay socket.

Fuel pump fuse located in the fuel pump relay housing is OK. ECM fuse located in the glove box electrical center is OK.

There is no "check engine" light. There is a "service engine soon" light but is does not come on when the key is turned on.

Fuel pump relay: one wire is powered all the time but none of the terminals light a test light when the key is turned on or the engine is cranked.

I don't have a noid light --might be able to buy or rent one at my parts store.

Hope I answered your questions

If your service engine light is not coming, then we have an issue with the computer, or with the powers or grounds to the computer.

First check the fuses....10A ECM in the electrical center (hot all the time)and 15A in the fuse box (hot with the key on and when cranking).

If they are OK, access the computer and check these wires...B11&B22 (orange) should be hot all the time. B5 (pink/black) should be hot with the key on. C1&D10&D21 (black/white) should have a good ground. B1 (tan/white) also needs grounded and C21 (tan) must be grounded.

Check these with a test light to make sure it lights brightly on each of the wires. Test the power wires with the light clipped to the car body and test the ground wires with the light clipped to power.

Fuses check OK and power to the fuse terminals is OK.

B11 -- NO POWER
B22 -- OK
B5 -- NO POWER

C1, D10, D21 -- Ground is OK
B1 -- Ground OK
C21 -- Ground OK

Where do I look to get power to B11 & B5??

B11 and B22 are spliced together between the 10A ECM fuse and the computer. B5 gets its power WITH THE KEY ON or in start. It goes from the igntion switch (dark blue/white) to 15A ECM fuse in the fusebox, and then (pink/black) to the computer and MAF sensor on VIN L engines.

B5 has power with the key on. There was nothing wrong with the circuit. I seems there was not enough power to light a "lamp" test light but it lit an LED test light OK.

Jumpered B11 into B22 an both have power.

There is still no power to the sitched terminal on the fuel pump relay.

None of the injectors fire the noid light. Also disconnected all injectors and tried each with the noid light. Read on the "web" a shorted injector would cause this problem.

If you you not have enough power to light a test light, the circuit is bad. It is supposed to be able to light 15A and a test bulb is less than 1A. Check if the fuse will light the test lamp. If not, most likely you have a bad ignition switch. If it will light it at the fuse, you have a bad wire between the fuse and the computer.

I do have a bright light at MAF sensor. I will splice a wire from B5 into the pink/black wire from the fuse panel. Found this wire in the harness coming out of the firewall. This should be easy to do.

That should get you running!

Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!

Spliced a new wire into the B5 terminal -- now have a bright light. The engine runs!!

I had a good idea we solved it when I heard the fuel pump kick in when I turned the key on.

Thanks for hanging in there with me

Jim

Jim,
Fixing cars is my business...
[redacted]
Dale

1991 Buick Regal Electrical / Lighting Systems  When braking Always

My left brake light will not light When I press the brake pedal. The right oe does. However, the light tail light lights.

check the bulb it is a two feed bulb

did you solve the problem

1991 Buick Regal Ignition System   

How do I reach the crankshaft position sensor? From the top or bottom?

Which engine do you have?

It's the 4 cylinder. I know the sensor is on the back of the engine, I just need to know how to reach it to change it. Is it accessible from underneath? The car is oarked in the weeds, so I'd need to lift it up to get under it. It's not currently running.

Still waiting for an answer to ,y question...it's a four cylinder Buick Regal

I only have a listing for a 2.8L V6 and a 3.8L V6 for a 1991 Buick Regal.

The 2.8L engine is accesible from underneath (I wouldn't want to try it from above). It's located on the firewall side of the engine.

Please make sure you safely support the vehicle-- NEVER get under any vehicle that is simply supported by a jack. A jack is never safe!

I made a mistake identifying the car. It's a Buick Skylark...sorry

1990 Buick Regal Electrical / Lighting Systems   

brake light stays on

Check to see if the brake pedal switch is stuck on or misadjusted. It is a "push button" switch actuated by the brake pedal.

if you lift up on pedal the tail ligth goes out

Okay, adjust the switch or replace if necessary.

1988 Buick Regal Engine Hesitating When driving Always

Engine bucks and hesitates like an electical short trying to cut the engine off while highway driving at a constant high speeds The engine will sometimes hestiate and stop when in slow or stop and go traffic. I can start it right back up though. Sometimes I hear a flickering noise on the right front side and the digital gauge panel will flutter and go haywire.

Check all of your vacuum lines, temperature sensors, air as well as coolant, and look for any loose or corroded wire connections.

Have the alternator and battery checked by a repair shop that specializes in that type of automotive equipment. Such a shop will also do work on starters. These types of shops are best for these devices since they generally work on nothing else.

Vacuum and temperature problems can cause the types of failures you have named.

The computer may be getting to hot due to internal components begriming to fail.

A good source of a replacement is to buy a vehicle of similar make and model to yours that has been totalled. Buy the vehicle as cheaply as you can, strip it of parts you need or might need, then sell the rest of it as scrap metal. Just be sure the computer survived the crash.

This is much cheaper than buying a new computer. Before buying such a vehicle, find out all that you can on the past history of it so that you get the best deal that you can.

Just do not tell anyone just why you want the wreck.

1988 Buick Regal Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

Cooling fan runs with engine cold and the ignition on

There is a temperature sensor that signals the fans to come on when the cooling system gets warm. Your sensor may be faulty or shorted out to ground.
if you locate the sensor and unplug the wire the fan should cut off and that pinpoints the sensor as the culprit.
I hope this helps

No---I have tried this and the fan keeps running----I have changed the relay with 2 new ones. replaced ALL sensors pretaining to the cooling system, replaced all fuses.

No---I have tried this and the fan keeps running----I have changed the relay with 2 new ones. replaced ALL sensors pretaining to the cooling system, replaced all fuses. Could the gas guage and odometer not working be a related problem???

will the fan still come on when the relay is not connected ie out of the car?

No the fan will not run when the relay is pulled out.It will still run with the sensor disconnected.

the problem is more than likely in the sensor wire it is possible that it is shorted
Youn should do an ohm reading and see if the wire is grounded out
power is going through the relay to get to the fan so you are narrowing it down

OK---I checked the wire coming from the sensor and found that there was a 500 ohm resistance in the wire. However there is suppse to be 5 volts going to the sensor and since there is a 500 ohm resistance on the wire and 5 volts going through it I would assume it would not be a short as a dead short would cause the meter to read full scale. It sure isn't like the cars of the 30s, 40s, and 50s. LOL Any more suggestions will be very much appreciated. Sorry if I am sounding dumb but I've never seen so many wires in my life.

ok let me look into the reading you are getting and I will get some info back to you
this is about the only way to solve this problem.

The PCM is the componet that ultimately controls the signal to the cooling fan circuit
I believe that is the next step
the thing you would want to do is scan for codes and this is a code that will appear as a faulty part

1988 Buick Regal Ignition System Won't Start When turning Always

Replaced coils and icm. Trying to remove crank position sensor. It turns, but it won't budge. Any suggestions?

Please help! I'm relying on a rental car until this is fixed and I don't have much money.

Unless you can rotate the crankshaft pulley to align a "slot" to allow the sensor to slip past the reluctor fins on the backside of the pulley you must remove the crankshaft pulley.

Installation of a new crank sensor requires very precise positioning due to the reluctor rings on the pulley. As the pulley spins the reluctor rings spin in "grooves" in the sensor to break the magnetic field. If alignment is not within tolerance the reluctor rings can get bent and or destroy the sensor as the pulley turns, or even as the pulley is being re-installed.

Be attentive to detail,

Roger

The crank position sensor I purchased is cylindrical with an o-ring near the top at the conector. My information tells me that the cps is located on the rear of the engine under the center exhaust port. Am I removing the correct sensor?

What engine are we working on here?

Roger

2.8L V6 173

Man! I was thinking of the 3.8L V6. I can get to the Mitchell 1 Auto Repair Data Base this morning and get back to you before noon.

Meanwhile, I'll call a Buick dealer...it may be faster.

What led you to these repairs? What are you trying to fix? Check engine light? Any codes?

Roger

Took it out on a trip on Saturday, about 400 miles. No problems all day. Got home at about midnight. Went out to start it the next morning to go to church and found no spark. Like I said, I already replaced the coils and icm. This was my logical next step. Wasn't it?

I'm waiting on a call back from the shop foreman at our Buick dealer for more information.

When you replaced the ICM did you OHM check the pick-up coil that plugs into the ICM for resistance value? If the pick-up coil is bad...no spark will happen. Pick-up coil resistance should be 700-950 ohms.

Roger

I'm heading to where I can access the data base so I can screw my head on.

Back soon,

Roger

The Buick shop foreman called back and said the 1988 was the first year for the DIS Ignition System. I'm totally off base but he set me on track.

He stated that the crankshaft position sensor is indeed the one you are trying to replace and is most likely the fault for no spark.

He wasn't sure if the coils were in your way but if so you may want to move them for access. He shares your pain for room to work on this.

What happens is the crankshaft sensor swells up on the end and the O ring dries out from the engine's heat. He states that alignment is critical and that twist and pull carefully and straight out is the way the sensor comes out. It will be tough and can even break off in the engine. Using a spray lube like WD40 WON'T be any help.

Should it break, their best success is to drill the part in the engine and install a screw into the broken piece as a "handle" on which one might get a hold on and continue to pull.

I'm so sorry I took off on the wrong track. I'm sure I made you consider if I were nuts!

Thoughts?,

Roger

Are you comfortable with what I relayed from the Buick Shop Foreman? We almost had a live chat going this morning. It's been a long day.

Roger

Sorry it took me so long to reply. I had to bring my wife to the doctor. While I was out, I stopped at Advance Auto to get some stuff and met a man who suggested that I spray some Liquid Wrench on the sensor and gently turn it about a quarter turn back and forth while pulling it straight out. It took a while for the lube to work but after about 10 minutes of turning and spraying, it came out. After putting everything back together, it cranked right up. Test drove it about an hour and a half to return the rental car and back home. Looks like I'm good to go until next time. Thanks for your quick response and I hope you can use the info also. A real PITA to do though.

1987 Buick Regal Fuel System   

When we step on the gas, it almost dies - barely idles - accelerator almost floored barely runs - acts like its not getting fuel

Hi, Is the exhaust restricted? Can the engine breathe?

Roger

As far as I know, the exhaust is not restricted, but we can check that. Could this have something to do with the fuel filter by chance?

I hope you are well. Please forgive my being delayed to reply to you before this evening.

I live near Oklahoma City, OK and we are dealing with an ice storm that came through Oklahoma Saturday Dec. 8th. We lost power for six days due to severe damage to the states' power grids. More than 650,000 homes and businesses are effected.

Yes, the fuel filter could factor if restricted. Have you changed it?

Please update,

Roger

Hi Roger - We've been hearing and seeing about how bad it is where you are watching weather here in California, hang in there.

We haven't changed the fuel filter yet, but will work on that this weekend. We were trying to figure out where it was before we attempted that. The diagram we've found shows that its not in the fuel tank, is that correct?

Yes, that is correct. There is a very small strainer filter on the suction side of the electric fuel pump and that one is not the one that is changed as a maintainance item.

You should find the inline fuel filter on the left frame rail usually forward of the left rear wheel.

I'll double check that to be sure. Do you have a carb, or fuel injection? V8 or V6?

Roger

Fuel injected, V6

Sorry to be slow on the reply, we have 2 cars down at the moment....this one and a 64 Malibu

All right, V6 fuel injected. You should find the inline fuel filter on the left frame rail usually forward of the left rear wheel. Just follow the fuel line from the fuel tank forward along the frame rail.

Roger

We found it and replaced it, it was rather clogged up. But now the car won't start, cranks, but won't start. Thanks for the help.

Try turning the key to on for five seconds then back to off. Wait ten seconds. Repeat.

This will help pressure up the fuel rail to the injectors and will insure fuel pressure is up for engine start.

Roger

We'll try that.......thanks!

Has the car started up for you?

Roger

Sorry, we've been rather busy. No, the car has not started, so we're going to take it in to the shop. Thank you very much for your suggestions and help, very much appreciated.

To close this question just click on OK to finish up.

I thank you,

Roger

1986 Buick Regal Electrical / Lighting Systems Failing Happens always Always

The Stereo fuss is brunt out. When it burnt out it burnt out all the wires to the speakers and to the stereo

What is your question please? I'll try to help>>

Roger

Well My sister had burnt out my fuss to the stereo in the fuss box so all the wire to the stereo from the fuss box burnt out. So that burnt the section that my stereo fuss go into out.

I'm sorry, but,I'm not understanding your question. You've made a clear statement, what help do you need?

Thanks!,

Roger

What I'm asking is can I get it fixed and how much you think it would cost to do so?

Yes, it is fixable. A melted section of a fuse panel can be modified by using inline fuse holders as needed. Wires and speakers are servicible too.

As to cost, I have restored many wiring fires and my policy is to 'clock in' on the repair order and charge an hourly rate for actual time spent on the job, plus parts and tax. I'm honest, fair and reputable.

An example would be; 4 hours x $50/hr = $200.00 labor plus parts and tax. Hopefully you'll find a similar method used in your area. You'll probably have to decide what you'll spend and tell the repairman not to exceed your preapproved amount without your permission. No exceptions. Then he'll have an idea how far he can go before he MUST STOP and explain additional needs requiring more of your money and why. This keeps you in control of repair costs.

Does this give you an idea how to approach this needed repair?

Roger