A/c control module malfunction and burnt blower motor connections
Roger -
Hi, Has your vehicle warranty already expired?
Burnt blower motor connections would indicate the connections are loose or the blower motor is drawing too many amps. Excessive amp draw will fail the power module that is piggy backed onto the blower motor.
Please advise,
Roger
New User -
No sir my car is not currently under warranty and the year is a 1995 cadillac concours not a 2007. I have the new part but if i hook it up the fan will not engage
Roger -
All right, 1995 Concours. HVAC Blower Inop.
I have some troubleshooting flow charts and wiring diagrams for you.
Will you please provide the email address or the fax number where you can receive this data? It will get you started and provide a proceedure in writing from the Mitchell 1 Auto Repair Data Base.
Thanks,
Roger
New User -
i'd be more than happy to sir, my e-mail is [redacted] and my fax is [redacted]
Roger -
I am sending both fax and email. One may be better quality and/or faster than the other.
Speedometer acts irractically causig transmission to slip. When driving the speedometer reads then when I let off the gas, speedometer drops straight to zero even though car is stll moving. Sometmes it will mve back up but for the most part it stays at zero even if I am traveling approx speed of 20 miles/hr. Everytme this happens, transmission seems to be looking for the correct gear to shift to. I have replaced the rear passenger side wheel hub since computer had error code for that but still no change. Diagnostic testing only shows VSS (vehicle speed sensor)readng high and working intermitantly. Dont know what else to do.
macconeck -
This vehicle has an electronic speedometer. The speed sensor, or the transmission is possibly at fault. What is the exact code number that you are getting?
The speed sensor, or the wiring from the sensor is bad.
1995 Cadillac Concours All Part Groups Sticking When idling No pattern
New User Asked -
what are the possible solutions to a idle surging or idleing too fast?
MightyMike -
The most common causes of High idle and /or surging are vacuum leaks or a problem with the Idle Air Control(IAC) motor or circuit.You did not mention any other driveability issue to accompany this so you should proceed as follows:First look/listen for vacuum leaks.Get a can of carb clean and with straw nozzle attached and engine running,spray in small spurts all around the engine intake and vac hoses while visually inspecting hoses for damage and listening for the engine RPM to fluctuate.If all of this is OK it may be in need of a little TLC in the form of an intake and injector service.The service, when performed correctly,cleans all the carbon and fuel/dirt build up off of the intake walls where fuel/air ratio mix takes place,the vavles,the throttle bore and idle air port , EGR passageway and pintle and injector pitots to restore injector spray patterns.You will be amazed at the restored performance if this service is performed correctly.Call around for the best price.Take a look into the throttle body/bore behind the throttle plate to see what I'm talking about.That thick gummy substance is detremental to Fuel/air mix,injectors ability to atomize the fuel properly,and the Idle air control circuit.Let me know how you make out with this. This service is just good PM anyway.Should be performed at least every 60,000 miles to keep the system in tip top shape.If you are allowed to watch them perform the service you can have them hold a white shop towell at the exhaust so you can see all the black crap that is removed from the concentrated cleaning agents.The injector cleaners you add to your tank take forever to work if they do anything at all.The service bombards the intake and injectors directly with the concentrated cleaning agents.
You can use the underhood emissions decal to guide you in locating vacuum hoses.You did not mention if any Check Engine Light was illuminating or if there was anything else occuring,so this is the best coarse of action.GoodLuck.Please click my ACCEPT if this answers your question.Thank You.
New User -
There is no check engine light on. Mechanics have run a diagnostic 2x and nothing is indicated. Would any of your suggestions show up on a diagnostic. This mechanic is NOT a dealer but honest. Caddy dealers are too $$. My caddy has 157,000 miles on her so there is no warranty left.
Any other suggetions? Thanks
MightyMike -
NO the ECM would not catch the issues I described unless the IAC moved incorrectly due to a circuit malfunction or the Vac leak was so large that the 02 Sensor would pick up on a lean Fuel/Air ratio.As I said,The lack of the Check Engine Light is what leads me in this direction.This should take care of the problem if the service is performed correctly.
I hit a substantial piece of tire tread at high speed and it gave my car a large jolt. My engine died and subsequent inspection indicated the fuel pump is not working. Does my car have a fuel pump shut off inertia switch? If it does, where is the reset button located?
kaptnzog -
Look in your owners manual if you have one. They usualy indicate the location.If not most are found in the trunk area of the vehicle
New User -
I don't have a manual, that's why I'm asking
Douglas -
I don't see one listed. There should be a fuse and a relay in the underhood fuse and relay center for the fuel pump.
New User -
There was power to the fuel pump and just replacing the fuel pump did the trick
Douglas -
If hitting a 'bump' caused the fuel pump to quit, it was getting weak anyways. It may have lasted quite a while, but at least it's out of the way now.
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