The a/c is full of refrigerant, but does not blow cold, or very hard. The system automatically switches to "Econ" from "Auto" no matter how many times you push the "Auto" button.
New User -
It's NOT a 2007 Cadillac DeVille, it's a 1991 model.
Roger -
Hello, Had you been hearing a clicking sound when the a/c compressor was engaged before it quit cooling?
Turn the key on, leave the engine off. Press and hold down the climate control OFF and Temperature Warmer buttons at the same time until the display changes....then release the buttons. Codes beginning with the letters E and or F will display followed by .70
What are the F codes?
To exit diagnostics turn the key off or press the Climate Control AUTO button.
Roger
New User -
It was like this when I bought it, the previous owner said it cooled fine last year but then just didn't this season. The only F code right now is F11. It had been giving me F11 and F47, but after trying to recharge it, I'm only getting the F11. I tried to recharge the system (it had been converted to r-134) but it only took about 2/3 of a can and then no more. The a/c clutch kicks on and off when it runs (every 10-15 secs or so), but no cool air, and very little air coming out of the vents even though it sounds like the blower is going full force.
Roger -
F-11 is a sensor code. Let's clear it and then jumper the low pressure switch so the compressor will run long enough to take a freon charge.
Enter diagnostics again and when you see .70, press and hold the OFF and fan HI buttons until you see F 00.
The low pressure switch screws into the accumulator at the far passenger side of the firewall. The black plastic cover on top of the firewall may have to come off to see the switch connector.
Disconnect the switch and jumper the wires in the connector. The compressor should run constantly.
2005 Cadillac DeVille Electrical / Lighting Systems Failing No pattern
New User Asked -
Car is completely dead. Drove it yesterday and everything was fine. Where is the Battery located
Roger -
Hello, The battery is under the rear seat lower cushion. Pull straight up on the front of the rear seat lower cushion and pop the seat cushion out. Now you can see the battery and fuse panel.
Roger
Roger -
How are you doing here? Has your battery gone bad? Look at cable connections for corrosion and signs of the battery positive post leaking acid.
"May 29/07 10:45AM: When turning the key on certain occassions (10 times in the last 3 years)the car would fail to start. The panel lights fail to eluminate when this failure occurrs. The engine could be either hot or cold. After waiting 3 to 8 minutes problem will subside and the car will start, but only after multiple attempts to start. I will manipulate the key, steering wheel and shifter while I am retrying the start process."
Roger -
Hello, There is no fast track to fixing a failure as infrequent as this.
Duplicating the condition is paramount to having a proper diagnosis hit the mark. You have included in your description that even the panel lights do not illuminate when the problem exists.
That makes me think the ignition electrical switch (not the lock cylinder) has the problem. Still, I cannot make a professional recommendation to replace it as no test has confirmed what is needed.
How would you like to proceed?
Roger
New User -
The dealer is on the same page as you. Unfortunately, the owner, a friend of mine, is elderly and fears getting stuck somewhere. He has an extended warranty that will cover the repair but without duplication of the problem at the dealer, they will not do anything. He has made complaints every time it happenned and they have not fixed the problem. What diagnostic tests do you recommend?
Roger -
Is the selling dealer a Cadillac Dealer? If so, the Service Manager or the Shop Foreman has the freedom to contact Cadillac Technical Support to see if others are having this problem.
Records are kept of any cases filed and if enough data is gathered that a common cause is found a Technical Service Bulletin will be sent to new Cadillac dealerships to have the repair process on file locally.
I can't recommend a diagnostic test until the condition is present. To do so would be unprofessional.
Roger
New User -
It is a Cadillac dealer. They also claim there are no service bullitens from Cadillac for this problem. Thatis why I tried you, hoping there was some information out there.
Roger -
There is a difference in contacting Cadillac about case history being compiled and reviewing published bulletins already in print.
I submit they reviewed published data and did not call for tech support at all to ask if this problem has surfaced before.
I too have looked for a published bulletin and did not find one I believe addresses this car's problem.
The car owner can request an appointment to visit with the Cadillac Zone Representative For Service about the car's problem. Setting this up is usually arranged by the dealer's Service Manager.
The meeting is expected to be conducted at the dealer's location and will most likely occur when the rep makes his rounds within the zone that include the selling dealer.
You may release the question to see if another provider can help.
My background includes nineteen years at a Cadillac Dealership Service Dept as an ASE Certified Master Technician and Team Leader. I also drove Cadillac Roadside Service and was a fourteen year member of the Cadillac Master Craftsman League finishing in the nation's top two percent of Master Craftsman all fourteen years running before I retired.
I say these things to assure you I have given careful consideration to your question and offered qualified experienced dialog to try to help.
Respectfully,
Roger
New User -
Thank you. Your advice is appreciated.
Roger -
To accept my answer so that All Parts will pay me please close the question or click on the OK TO PAY MECHANIC button.
1998 Cadillac DeVille Chassis / Suspension & Steering Making Noise When turning Always
New User Asked -
I hadthe struts replaced. One axle was replaced. The car has a clicking sound when I turn the wheel. If moving it does not make the sound. Also It feels like the rear still bottoms out with $1600 worth of new struts.
Roger -
Hello, Why were the struts replaced? Was a front axle replaced? Is your car equipped with Computer Command Ride (CCR)? Is the clicking sound in the steering column or in the front end? Have you checked the car for diagnostic codes? Does your level ride system work?
Cadillac struts are designed to restrict movement when they extend. This means very little resistance (shock absorbed) when the car body moves downward but considerable resistance applies as the car recovers to curb height.
You invested alot of money. Do you have recourse with the repair shop? If it is a Cadillac Dealer have you alerted the Service Manager you're not happy?
Please advise,
Roger
New User -
The struts were replaced because the old ones were leaking. One front axle was changed because the boot was torn. The clicking is more like a poping sound when the wheels are turned. It's a 1998 deville concours. The sound comes from underneath the car.
Roger -
Was the front axle indeed replaced or was the CV joint cleaned and repacked and a new boot installed?
I worked for a Cadillac Dealer for 16 years until my retirement. Replacing the boot was common if the CV joint was servicable. An axle replacement was rare.
The popping sound could be a powertrain cradle mount or a body mount. These mounts may require loosening and be retorqued to correct a binding.
This is serious stuff here as it will call for use of a lift and high torque impact tools. Do you have recourse with the repair shop?
Does your car have the CCR struts? Were the same type struts used to replace the leaking ones?
Does your car have a normal curb height appearance? Does the Level Ride System work?
How do you want to proceed?
Roger
Roger -
What have you decided here? Roger
New User -
I'm taking the car to a mechanic tonight and have him put it on his computer. No charge and he will fix the problem. Thanks for the advice.
Roger -
What do you want to do with this question?
Roger
Roger -
Hello, What do you want to do with this question? You may request a refund by writing to All-Parts.com, Site Administrator, all-parts.com or if you wish to accept my help and allow me to be paid, please click on the OK TO PAY MECHANIC button.
all headlamps are new. Lights go on when taken out of park. Pulling directional lever to activate high beams all lights go off. Lever does not "click" and stay in position, springs back. No running lights work. No tail lights. Flashers work. Pulling manual light switch full out shuts off headlights which only work with the twilight sentinel. All fuses are good. What is wrong? Thanks
Roger -
Hello, Have you checked fuses under the hood as well?
Do you know how to use onboard diagnostics?
With the key on hold down the Climate Control OFF and WARMER buttons until the display changes.
The computers will display their memory codes. Write down the "B" codes. They are Body Control Module codes.
To exit diagnostics press AUTO, or turn the key to OFF.
What codes were present?
Roger
New User -
all fuses trunk and under hood are good.
codes: pcm p0463 history, pcm p1527 history, pcm p1599 history, rf8 b3108 history, ipc b1552 history, pzm b2473 history and irc b1771 history.
The directional lever works but is funky and always had to be fiddled with to make it work right and every time I use the right signal the bright light indicator goes on.
Roger -
Some of these codes mean nothing as they refer to cassette tape speed slow, fuel level sensor circuit high input, engine stall or near stall...not much help.
Based on what you describe I'm tempted to say replace the turn signal switch and take a very good look inside the steering column.
Are you comfortable working on an air bag equipped steering column?
If you want to clear the codes first to see what codes come back:
Re-enter diagnostics as previously described. Let the computers list the codes and when finished the Display will read "PCM?"
From here use the fan switches as follows:
Press fan up = YES
Press fan down = NO
The display reads "PCM?" Press fan up (YES)
Then the computer will ask you if you want DATA?, INPUTS?,CODES?, CLEAR CODES?, and perhaps other questions. Press fan down (NO) until the display says "CLEAR CODES? Press fan up (YES). Codes will clear.
Press OFF to advance the system to the next computer and repeat the process until you have cleared all codes in memory.
Press AUTO or turn the key off to exit diagnostics.
How do you want to proceed?
Roger
New User -
you still haven't explained what parts might need to be replaced or what is wrong.
Roger -
I made the following statement:
"Based on what you describe I'm tempted to say replace the turn signal switch and take a very good look inside the steering column.
Are you comfortable working on an air bag equipped steering column?"
The turn signal switch is where I would start.
My suggestion to clear all codes and see what comes back is a second step I recommended to further the diagnosis.
I worked 17 years at a Cadillac Dealership as a Master Technician and team leader/trainer. I feel I can guide you well.
1998 Cadillac DeVille Electrical / Lighting Systems
New User Asked -
I keep getting the error message that the battery is not charging & to check electrical system. I know it does charge on a intermittent basis. I have replaced battery & still have the problem. Is it more likely to be the alternator or a sensor or something else.
Thanks..
Roger -
Hello, The message should be taken that the battery is not being charged when the message is present.
Very likely the alternator has the problem as the voltage regulator is internal. You may need one.
1997 Cadillac DeVille Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When shifting Always
New User Asked -
the doors do not lock when car is put into gear
Roger -
Hello, Is this a new event or did you recently acquire this car?
The reason I ask is that the door locks can be programmed to suit the owner's desire. Do you have an owner's manual to guide you on this programming procedure?
Have you checked all your fuses? Do you get any message appearing on the Driver Information Panel?
Roger
New User -
All fuses are good. the customer reports that the problem popped up a month ago. I got a code P1520 on my scanner, something to do with the P/N switch. Could that be the problem? Is there another P/N switch located somewhere other than the trans? cannot locate one on the column. I wait for your reply. Thanks
Roger -
Yes! We call the park/neutral switch a "Prindle Switch" in the Cadillac shop I retired from. "PRNDL".
The P/N switch on top the trans is the only one. It is to be installed with the trans. in NEUTRAL and you will see alignment marks that help get things right. You'll have about 3/8" of enlongated slots under the mount bolts to index the switch. I usually check the installation for accurate indexing before I hook the shift cable back up. (I pop the shift cable off of the ball on the lever that bolts on at the trans end.) If the car starts in Park and Neutral (but not any gear) you are good to go and can clear the code P1520.
Roger
New User -
Thank you for your advice. I checked the owners manual like you said, reprogramed the door lock sequence and the locks worked. I cleared the P1520 code and sent her on her way. If she comes back with the same problem I will change the P\N switch. thanks again,Keith.
Roger -
Great job, Sir! Will you please accept my "answer" so that I may be paid? That will close out this question.
Thank you,
Roger
New User -
Im sorry, Im not clear on how to accept your answer. Do I click on something? I dont see it. Please explain
Roger -
You must not be seeing the options displayed to accept or reject the mechanic's answer.
Please write an email to [redacted] to let him know you are not seeing the above mentioned options. All-Parts.com is the site administrator and he can take care of the problem for us.
Thanks very much,
Roger
Roger -
Hello, Did you write to All-Parts.com at All-Parts and clear this question for payment? I haven't heard so I thought I'd ask...Thanks.
Merry Christmas,
Roger
New User -
Yes, I emailed Mark and recieved no reply, however my credit card was billed so I assumed everything was ok. Please dont bill me again because I have already been. Thanks again, Keith
Roger -
Keith, Mark will catch up. I have no power or authority to bill you at all so don't worry about that happening. When mark sees your message he will pay me from what you have already been charged. He is in Canada, I am in Oklahoma, USA. I am independent of All-Parts and do this for fun.
1997 Cadillac DeVille Engine Overheating When accelerating Always
New User Asked -
losing coolant when accelerating above 50mph. engine overheats. i refill and it does it again. seems to be coming out through exhaust. what do you suggest. if head gaskets, can i use a block seal? If yes, how do i drain the system. if no, what could it be?
Douglas -
Where are you losing coolant? Out the exhaust will show up as white smoke when the engine is at operating temps.
If the leak is minor a block seal may be work, for large leaks not likely.
Which engine do you have?
New User -
Northstar 4.6 V8
Douglas -
Okay, I'll check for bulletins on the problem tomorrow.
Neither of my engine cooling fans on my 97 DeVille is working. As consequence, my engine is running hotter than normal, at around 212 to 222 degrees. Any suggestions?
Bruce Kit -
2 fans seldom quit at the same time, so they are probably ok.
Check "Cooling fan fuse" first.
Then relay.
The sensor that turns it all on, is in the intake manifold, by the thermostat.With the key on, ground the wire.If fans come on, replace the sensor.
You can temporarily leave the wire grounded, while you go out to get the sensor. The fans will come on when the key is on.Too much fan better than no fan!
New User -
where the heck is the cooling fan fuse? I looked at the chart in the book that shows both panels and can't find it listed!
Bruce Kit -
There is a fuse panel in the engine compartment, on LH fender area, just ahead of the master cylinder.There are Maxi Fuses there as well as relays.
I have a steering problem. The vehicle turns left no problem but when turn sterring wheel to the right its very hard and seems to bind. what is the problem?
Bruce Kit -
I am assuming that you checked the fluid level and its ok.Common problem is the power steering rack binding. The symptoms are 100% as you described, and the symptoms (binding ) are more severe if you turn quickly. There are no simple easy repairs.Replacement of the rack is the usual repair. Avail at auto wreckers (used) or Parts Stores (rebuilt) While possible to replace at home if you are handy with tools, you will need a wheel alignment after repair.
This is a fairly common problem, by the way.
Bruce
1997 Cadillac DeVille Electrical / Lighting Systems
New User Asked -
The heater motor is not working. It was replaced last year and I just bought a new one plugged it in and the same thing it doesn't work. There is power to it whether the key is on or off but still doens't work.
Douglas -
Okay, check for power and ground. Is ground missing?
Some of the testing requires a scan tool. If you can follow wiring diagrams I can give one to you, along with test procedures (although some cannot be performed without a scanner). If you'd like this information please leave your email address so I can send them.
BTW- I assume automatic climate control.
New User -
That would be great thanks!
[redacted]
Douglas -
Check your email.
New User -
There is no ground? By scan tool do you mean OBD or do I have to buy something?
Thanks Melanie
Douglas -
You car is OBD2, meaning a universal scanner can be used to view powertrain trouble codes. Your problem is within the body control system and special scanner is needed for some tests, these scanners are expensive.
I found some self diagnostics you can try-
Perform the following steps in order to retrieve codes using self diag-
Press one of the following combinations:
For digital IPC, press OFF and WARMER.
For analog IPC, press OFF and PASSENGER WARMER.
Press the LO (fan) button until ACM ? appears.
Press the HI (fan) button until ACM CODES ? appears.
Press the HI (fan) button until ACM DTC appears.
1997 Cadillac DeVille Electrical / Lighting Systems
New User Asked -
The 4 way flashers work on my 97 DeVille but the turning signals wont flash.I replaced all of the signal bulbs and flasher.The switch itself works I just have to manually work the switch.If you could tell me the part to be checked and where its located I would graciosly appreciate it!
heavychevy -
Hello
Sounds like it could be a bad relay,its up by the steering column, might be able to get to it through the headlight turn on assembly, it will be hard to get too.
Heavychevy
heavychevy -
Hello
Just doing a follow up to see if you are still having problems with your DeVille.
Heavychevy
heavychevy - heavychevy -
.
New User -
How exactly would I take off the headligh switch cover.
heavychevy -
should be two bolts or screws on the left of the panel and one in the center of the right of the panel.
Heavychevy
New User -
Thank you I'll be able to look at it tomorrow.I'll keep you informed.
heavychevy -
Ok
New User -
Do I have to take the bottum nut shell off to get to the flasher because I see no other way to get though the light switch as a matter of fact it looks like the only way o get to that area.I removed all the far bottom stuff.The 4 way flasher was on the passenger side of the colum a freind told me to look on that side further up I just want to be sure because removing that piece is going to take me having to BE SURE.Thank you
heavychevy -
it will say on the relay itself turn signal relay should be further up let me check manual real quick
heavychevy -
The Turn Signal Flasher is below the Istrument Panel Cluster on the Left Hand Side of the steering column, and look for a squarish module with an electrical connector on a pig-tail.
heavychevy -
..
heavychevy -
,,
heavychevy -
/
heavychevy -
Just doing a follow up to check the progress of your deville.
Heavychevy
will not stay in auto mode. always immediately reverts to econ. A/C compressor does not kick on. A static check shows sufficient(?) coolant present.
Roger -
Hello, The most common cause of this condition is low freon or low pressure when the compressor runs.
The system is designed to prevent the compressor from running if low on freon or the compressor will destroy itself due to lack of lubrication. The oil in an A/C system is circulated by the freon carrying it along as it moves through the system.
Lets check the system for codes:
1. Turn on the ignition, do not start the engine.
2. Hold down the Climate Control "OFF" and the temperature "Warmer" buttons simultaniously until the display on the Driver Information Center (DIC) changes, then release the buttons.
3. Write down codes that begin with the letter "B". For now, ignore all others.
4. After all computers have been polled the DIC will say "ECM?"
5. Press the fan speed down arrow button one touch at a time until the DIC says "BCM?" (Fan down = "NO")
6. Press the fan speed up arrow once to poll the Body Control Module (BCM) that runs the A/C System. (Fan up = "YES")
7. Continue to press fan down arrow ("NO") until the DIC says "BCM Codes?"
8. Press fan up arrow ("YES") once.
9. Write down the codes that display for you on the DIC.
10. Watch as the BCM finishes its report cycle. Press the fan down arrow once per question on the DIC until you see "Clear Codes?" displayed on the DIC.
11. Press the fan up arrow once (Yes") to clear the codes.
12. When the DIC says "Codes clear" press the AUTO button on the Climate Control Panel, or turn the key to off. This will exit diagnostics.
13. Start the car, turn on the A/C. Does it cool, or did it go right back to the previous status? Is the compressor noisey as it turns?
How old is your A/C compressor? Was it making a buzzing or rattling sound recently before it quit? The piston rings inside the compressor are teflon and wear out, break off, and end up caught on the orifice tube filter screen.
If the above is the case the compressor cannot compress the freon gas to a liquid because the piston rings have failed. A "low pressure" condition results that the car's computer interprets as low freon so the compressor is cut-off to protect it.
I'm believing your compressor has failed mechanically and will need replaced along with replacing the orifice tube if it's screen cannot be cleaned or has broken. In worst cases the system accumulator (drier) will need to be replaced as well.
Big money here...can get to $2K real fast if a major failure of the compressor is found. More if the accumulator has to be changed, too.
Your thoughts?,
Roger
New User -
No "BCM" group shows up. I did get an "AC1347 Current" code which I cleared. I then started the engine and hit the "AUTO". The compressor then went on and I got cold air.
Can you tell me what the "AC1347" code indicates?
Thank You
Roger -
My mistake, the DIC came up as "ACM?" and you went through the process of clearing the code under the ACM, correct?
AC1347 indicates a low refrigerant charge. This code will set for a low pressure reading by the Low Pressure Sensor and when it does, the compressor is locked out to protect it.
I asked how old is your compressor?
Were your car in my shop I would first clear the codes, run the system with a set of gauges hooked up and see how it is performing. Then I'd shut down and check for leaks with a Halogen Leak Detector.
If no leak were found I would recover the refrigerant and note the quantity recovered. If a full charge was recovered I would then remove the Orifice Tube from the A/C liquid line and inspect the tube's filter screen for metal shavings and teflon piston rings present.
If less than a full charge was recovered it is time to inject florescent dye into the system and recharge with refrigerant so a black light can be used to pin point a slow leak where ever the dye provides evidence.
If more than 25% of the filter screen is blocked it indicates the compressor is failing. Replacement is recommended.
A completely charged system with a bad compressor (piston rings breaking) will set the AC1347 code even though we know the system to be full. The car's computer "Sees" the low pressure as low refrigerant quantity by assuming the compressor to be good and perhaps a leak has developed elsewhere.
Expect the AC1347 code on your car to come back. It will repeat until you have it investigated. It may come right back, or take quite awhile. Even the sensor itself can be faulty. You need the help of a professional to decide which path to take and the cost of the journey.
Will that do it?,
Roger
Roger -
Hi, Please update the status of this question. I'm trying to keep up and if you need additional info please let me know.
Thanks,
Roger
New User -
After clearing the code the compressor would run. I finally got it to the mech. and he added almost 1lb of refridgerant. It seems to work fine now. He could find no other probs.
As far as I could find out the A/C system is all orig. and had no prior probs. The car has les than 60K on it.
Thanks for the diags instructions and assistance.
Roger -
Thank you for the update. Will you please accept my answer so that I may be paid?
Respectfully,
Roger
New User -
Your answer was helpful and you should be paid.
John
Roger -
John, Do you see an "OK to pay mechanic" button to click on? That is supposed to be an option for you. If not, please advise and I'll write to All-Parts.com for a release of funds.
Once in awhile the software fails to load the above option on your side of the program. We both should have the option to release the question so that other providers can answer. However, the customer alone has the option to accept an answer or an administrative override has to be requested. Then the dialog is reviewed to verify I've done my job and the site administrator makes the decision whether or not the provider gets paid.
1996 Cadillac DeVille Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens sometimes
New User Asked -
car thinks a door is open & interior lights come on. only happens at night because the dash sensor in daylight keeps the interior lights off, even with a door open. sometimes opening & closing a door helps but problem is getting worse. happens when driving at night or when cat is parked at night. thanks.
kaptnzog -
You need to check each door latch and their strikers to insure a complete lock closes the circut.Each door latch is wired for this purpose.If the latch does not come into contact with the striker to complete a full double lock(the latch will click twice in full lock)then you may have a problem with the striker bolt.Some have a plastic collar that insures the full lock.If the collar is worn,there may lie your problem.If the strikers are of the solid type,an adjusment to them might help.The trick here is to find the offending door(s).Use a good lubricant on each door latch(WD-40,Liquid Wrench etc)to make sure latches are free and workable.Once you do this close each door a few times and with them all shut see if the door ajar is still on.If so,go to each door and push in on it to see if the light goes out.If the light goes out on one of the doors,this is your offender.Again,both the the latch and the striker are the areas I would be looking at up to this point.Also note that some latches have a plastic sleave on their jaw like pinchers that somtimes interfear with their operation.Hope this helps get you on your way and keep in touch if it dosent and we'll try another route.
Good Luck,
Paul
New User -
thanks Paul, I will try this. I see no plastic sleeves but there is a double striker on each door frame. so are you saying that there is an internal switch connected to each door latch?? and, if lubing doesn't help you would move the striker on the offending door so if closes tighter?? thanks.
kaptnzog -
Yes the latch does have a switch that sends a signal to the central unit to alert the "door ajar".On some models the switch itself can be changed,on others replacement of the entire latch is required.(Ford Ranger was famous for this)As for the strikers,what youre looking for here is that they are engaging the latch into the full lock position.When you lubricate the latches,take a large screwdriver and push in at the jaws of the latch.You will notice one click and as you push a little harder,there will be a second click.This is the full lock that you want to achieve on the actual striker.If you do try any adjustment to the striker,make sure to mark around it in its original position before doing so.This will be your guide to show the movement you are doing.You will find that very little ajustment in or out makes a "big" difference on the way the door closes.If by moving the striker doesnt help solve the problem,the marks will help put the striker back to its previous spot and the latch and or switch start to come into question.
Good Luck,
Paul
1996 Cadillac DeVille Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens sometimes No pattern
New User Asked -
I have a 1996 Deville and the blower motor seems to have a mind of its own. I turn on the heat and it always had a slight delay before turning on as I understand the car warms up before it begins blowing. The PROBLEM is it is taking unsually long for the heat to turn on. Once it begins blowing it is warm as heats fine, but then it will stop blowing for no reason. It will then turn back on sometimes after a few minutes or sometimes after a long period of time. There are no trouble codes and the heat is hot, but I just can't keep the blowing running consistantly. It does not matter if I select "Auto" Climate or "Econo" mode climate. Any help would be great, thanks.
Roger -
Hello,
The Climate Control blower motor is in the middle of the firewall under the hood. It has a Blower Speed Power Module piggybacked onto the blower motor case.
When the condition is present unplug the blower motor/power module connector and test for voltage present at the connector. You'll want to have the key and the Climate Control System ON and set to a temperature where hi fan speed is expected.
If you get a reading on the connector for the blower motor of battery volts or higher replace the blower motor and power module as an assembly.
The power module varies the fan speed by pulsing the ground circuit for the motor. When the ground pulse stops so will the blower motor.
The blower motor assembly with power module is pricey. Steps to diagnose are important. The power module most often fails due to the blower motor drawing too many amps to turn. Excessive amp draw fails the ground path driver circuit on it's circuit board.
There are identifier markings on the rubber cover on the blower motor case that show you where to cut the rubber covering to access and replace the blower motor assembly.
Your thoughts?,
Roger
Roger -
How are you doing on this one please?
Roger
New User -
Thanks, that ended up working out. I had to change the motor twice because while installing the first one I must have cracked the squirel cage type fan blade. GOD, thats a tight fit! When I turned it on it was vibrating and making an awefull noise. I took it out and found a couple fan fins broke off. I was able to exchange it for another one. Good thing because it was $250 bucks. Either way I got the new one in and it works great. Thanks for the help.
Roger -
Great! To accept my answer so that All Parts will pay me please click on the OK TO PAY MECHANIC button.
how can i open my fuel door when the button on the left side of the steering colume will not work?
Bruce Kit -
In the trunk, on the same side as the fuel filler, you will see a small tab, with "FUEL" written on it.It is attached to a cable which manually opens the door.Just pull on it.Check the 'Owners Manual' in glovebox.It should show a photo.
Bruce
i am trying to add freon to my 1996 cadillac deville. the ac compressor will not turn on so i cannot get it to take freon. i was told i need to jump the low pressure switch but i cannot locate the switch.
Roger -
Hi, Do you see a two wire switch on the top of the accumulator?
The accumulator is at the passenger side of the firewall below a removable cowl panel.
Roger
New User -
hi roger thanks for the response. i do not see any wires on the accumulator but there is a small plug with 2 wires going to it on a steel hose coming out of the accunulator.
Roger -
That should be the low side temp sensor - not the cycling switch.
Have you cleared codes for the HVAC?
Why are you adding R134a? Has the compressor been making a rapid clicking sound?
Roger
New User -
I did not clear any codes ( i have no clue how to do that) I know the system has a small leak and leaks out over the winter. before i moved away i had a friend who would add freon for me in the spring and it would be fine for most of the summer. the car is old and i cant put much money in it. i thought if i could find the low pressure switch and jumper it i might be able to get it to take some of the r 134. but the compressor will not kick on at all. it worked fine in the fall but i know it does leak.
Roger -
To clear codes:
Turn the key ON, engine OFF.
Press the HVAC Control Panel OFF and TEMP WARMER buttons at the same time until the display changes and then let go of the buttons.
You'll see the computers start their diagnostic checlist countdown.
When all computers have checked in you will see PCM?
To answer a question mark press FAN UP for YES. Press FAN DOWN to answer NO.
You want to clear codes in the ACM computer. So press FAN DOWN (NO) for each question mark until you see ACM? Then press FAN UP (YES).
Once you said YES to ACM? look at the next question and press FAN DOWN (NO) for each question until you see ACM CLEAR CODES? Press YES.
Press AUTO to exit diagnostics. Set the A/C on AUTO and 60 degrees.
Start the engine. Did the compressor engage?
Please advise.
You cannot hurt a thing pressing these buttons.
Roger
New User -
Roger,
I hope you get paid well!!! it worked GREAT. I got the freon in and it works great.
THANKS
Barry
Roger -
Thank you Barry! To accept my answer so that All Parts will pay me please close the question, or click on OK TO PAY MECHANIC.
1996 Cadillac DeVille Electrical / Lighting Systems
Paula Asked -
My 2 brake lights are not illuminating. I have backup lights, taillights, etc....also the third brake light (in the rear window) works. Just the two side lights do not.
History that might or might not relate...I have had smoke coming from the steering column when I have car in drive and brakes for an extended period of time.
Roger -
Hello, Replace the turn signal switch inside the steering column.
Do you have the tools and are you comfortable working on an Air Bag Steering Column?
Please advise,
Roger
Roger -
Hi, Did you receive my reply? The brake lights on the body have wiring that goes through the turn signal switch. The high mount stop light does not.
A/C runs all the time, even when heat requested or needed.
Roger -
Hello, Does the air flow switch modes to the floor for heat but the air temperature remains cold?
Roger
New User -
Yes. Even Tho' heat is called for.
Roger -
I understand.
There is a small 12 volt dc motor that moves the temperature door when a change is called for. It is part of the Climate Control Programmer. The motor is a dealership item and not very hard to change.
The programmer is under the right side of the dash and in fact there may be two motors that control temperature if the car has Duel Air. One of the motors is either stuck or the gears in the motor case are stripped.
How do you want to proceed? Will you be making the repairs? The 12 volt dc motor is affordable/reasonable in price. A programmer assembly is very pricey.
Roger
Roger -
Still looking to hear from you. What may I do to help?
Roger
New User -
Haven't you received my last four messages?
The "ALL-PARTS" Program need some work.
Jim
Roger -
Jim, This is the last message I have on my screen from you:
Sep 25/07 1:21PM: "Yes. Even Tho' heat is called for."
Roger
New User -
Hope you got my last message.
Jim
Roger -
No sir, I don't know where we are on this question.
Have you located the programmer or the motors I mentioned? What course of repair have you taken?
Please advise,
Roger
New User -
I'm going to try this one more time. After your advice about the 12 volt motor and the Programmer, I located them, with the motor being in a small gear box on top of the duct. I extracted the gear box, tested the motor (Ran fine) and moved the gears to make certain they were not stripped (They moved smoothly). I was then worried that I may have a defective Programmer. However, I decided to re-assemble everything, re-set the lever-arm mechanism, closed up everything and started up the engine. Would you believe, everything worked perfectly (Heat and Cold). I owe it all to your advice.
Thanks!
Jim
Roger -
Hey! I'll take a happy ending no matter how long I have to wait.
I don't have a clue where the previous attempts to reply to me went. I am in Oklahoma. All Parts is in Canada.
Thank you for your patience and trying to keep me informed. Good job!
If we are finished here please click on OK to finish up.
God bless,
Roger
New User -
OK! And, thanks again.
Jim
Roger -
Thank you Jim. When you click on OK to finish up All Parts will pay me.
Try us again,
Roger
New User -
I hope this gets through. I sent All-Parts a message about the difficulties I had with their present communication system (for your info., there is no place on the Web Page to answer "OK"). If you can forward this message to All-Parts, I hereby approve you for payment.
when i start the car it makes a Rattling noise under the hood i opened the hood and looks like its comming from one of the pullys when i turn on the ac on high it stops the other day it started up with no noise and today i sarted it up and the Rattling noise came back i turn on the ac on low and it still made the rattling noise turned it on high and it stops the noise could this be the ac compressor going bad or one of the pullys ?
Roger -
Hello, The a/c compressor has teflon piston rings that fail and become caught in the orifice tube screen.
The rattling sound or rapid clicking is cause by pistons inside the compressor that have lost sections of the compression rings. This allows the pistons to move excessively inside the cylinder bore.
The fix is to recover the refrigerant, remove the orifice tube for cleaning of the screen filter, (or replacement of the orifice tube), replace the compressor, and evacuate and recharge the refrigerant. Performance test the system.
Some suppliers of the compressors require replacement of the system accumulator (receiver/drier) also or the warranty is void on the compressor.
Your thoughts?
Roger
Roger -
Have you read my reply yet? What are your thoughts?
I am not getting any heat, fan does not come on. The Climate control center lights up and states outside temp. Do not feel any heat and heat does not blow out any of the vents. I have been told the climate control goes bad often in this model but can not locate this part because I am not able to find it under heat or air conditioning, Please HELP !!!!!!!!!
Bruce Kit -
The climate control unit that fails is the actual switch and digital display unit on the dash. The panel might be avail from GM, but they usually only keep parts for 10 years. Alternate sources are the internet (ebay etc) and the more tradional autowrecker sources.
And yes they fail often!
First, of course, check all the fuses!
1996 Cadillac DeVille Electrical / Lighting Systems
Paula Asked -
everything is normal when i first start the car up and head out. after a few miles headlights dim and most of the dashboard/radio lights go dark. Speedometer stays lit.
Douglas -
The first thing I want you to try is removing the battery terminals. Clean all corrosion and add a washer to the terminal bolt to ensure a good connection (not to big of a washer, especially on the positive, to avoid a short). If corrosion is to great, replace the battery cables. Let me know if this offers any improvement.
Paula -
There is no corrosion, it is a brand new battery (few weeks old). I just take the nut off and put a washer underneath on both terminals?
Paula -
like I said it is a brand new battery only a few weeks old. by the way it is a 32 valve 8 cylinder Northstar engine if that makes any difference. do I still put the washers under the bolts?
Paula -
I tried to take the nut off the negative...the alarm went crazy and sparks flew.....should i try the red (positive) terminal?
Paula -
now the display lights on the dash, radio, trunk, a/c are not lighting at all. The electronic cluster messages and speedometer are lit
Paula -
Can anyone out there help? I have a trip at 8 am ....
Paula -
nevermind...i think i fixed it myself. At least at this time everything is back lit up and working.
Bruce Kit -
ok...now we are curious...how did you fix it.?
Paula -
Well, here is what I did. By looking in my manual I located the fuse boxes in the trunk and in the engine compartment by the air filter. I took each fuse out and examined them. Though I was not able to find any fuses out...I am assuming one or more may have not been in tightly enough because the next time I turned on my car everything lit up...I took it for a spin around town, and everything stayed on. If I do not come back on in the next few days saying that wasn't it..then I guess I got it. At least things are lit up for now and I will be able to take it on my trip. :-)
I have a 1996 cadillac deville 32 valve norstar engine 4.6L I took it to a shop to have check engine light diagnosed and it was idling rough. I was told that one coil was burned out and i need ed plugs and wires because the wires are original. Also the trouble codes came up bad for EGR valve and Mass air flow sensor. I saw it on the computor for my self. I changed all 4 couils and it ran great again for the past 5 days. I dec to change the plugs and wires today. After doing so the car returned to running lousey again doing mostly the same thing and you can smell the fuel coming from exhaust running rich. I put everything back the way it was after changing plugs and wires so i can not understand what i could have done wrong. Any ideas??
brian
New User -
also I tried to remove the EGR vcalve but found that one of the bolts is tucked under a fuel rail. What kind of tool do I need to get to remove that bolt or do i have to remove the fuel rail???
Bruce Kit -
Brian
If the Caddy were here I would again check foe codes with a scanner as sensors quit at any time and wires that appear plugged in are making poor contact internally. Before you remove the egr valve, try to determine if it is actually working, or if there is actually voltage going to it with a digital ohm meter.Might be a good EGR sensor but a bad wire going to it.Fuel rails usually mounted with Torx type fasteners. The 'rich' smell might be caused by a problem with an O2 sensor or a CTS )coolant temp sensor) so a scan a good idea.
New User -
I will get it scaned again tomarrow morning.I agree that it is probably a bad sensor somewhere but there are so many to choose from. map sensor, Mass Air sensor, o2 sensors, egr, TPS, etc. Once I find out would it be a good idea since I am keeping this car for a long while to go ahead and start replacing dome of these sensors a little at a time before they go bad????
Bruce Kit -
No, some sensors last a long time, but the O2 sensors do wear out, being in the direct flow of hot exhaust gasses. If you can, purchase a cheap scan tool or a digital volt ohm meter. The O2 sensor should have a median voltage of about .5 volts with spikes to aprox, ,8 volts and .3 volts. These spikes should occur quickly, several times a second. If they do not, then the sensor is bad. If the spikes are slow then you have a 'lazy' O2 which is starting to get coated with contaminents.Solution :replace. A bad or lazy O2 will result in poor driveability and poor fuel economy
New User -
I took the car to a local goodyear guy near me who i have had good luck with in the past. he ran the diagnostics and at first it threw 20 codes. They had to clear the computor and do it again. They found that the part the 4 coils plug into is not working. They are replacing it. perhaps that is why my coil blew out for the 1 and 4 cylinders previously. They said this time it was the same 2 cylinders not functioning. I was running on 6 cyls. The engine comp threw into safe mode and I started using tons of fuel.
my car just shuts of for no reason a few times during the day when i am driving. my mechanic asys that i need a crank sensor it is a (4.6 northstar 1996 cadillace sedann deville )could this be the problem? i live in the bahamas and there is no supplier that carry's this part. can you give me a name of a distributor in Florida, preferably miami where i may purchase the part
Douglas -
Yes, this can be the crankshaft position sensor. Most any chain auto parts store (Autozone) or dealership will have the sensor.
I'm not sure if it is quicker to have the part shipped to you or for you to get the part from Miami?
Copy and Paste the following link into your Address Bar-
I am getting a code from climate control of AC1347, and RF2560 what do these codes mean so I can figure out how to fix them.I have a 1996 Cadillac Deville with a 4.6L Northstar.
Douglas -
AC1347- low refrigerant for the A/C (refrigerant leaked or a restriction) fault code
The A/C compressor will not come on no matter what you by-pass, I tried everything I know to get compressor to kick on so I can put R-134 into a/c control will not go to Auto.
Douglas -
Are you asking if you should add refrigerant or saying you already have with no results? If you just wish to get the compressor on, jumper the connector to the clutch. Do this unplugged with a fused jumper.
New User -
I already tried to add R-134 but no matter what I did I could not get the compressor to stay running it ran for about 15 seconds shut and would kick back on.
Douglas -
Okay, jumper the compressor clutch with a jumper wire. This will allow you to add the refrigerant. It'll take a while (15 or more minutes) to empty the can.
New User -
Where is the best place to put in jumper wire.
Douglas -
It depends what you have, a spare connector is best. If you don't have one small aligator clips can be used to jumper the compressor clutch.
battery ok control panel ok ligts ok.when i turn the key car do not do nating.last time i park the car was perfet.security display anausment is on and intermiten red light autside panel is blinken on and off.to minimice trouble in the electrical system i cancel myself the lo jack relay circuit lon time ago.thank you
Bruce Kit -
The best thing you can do is have either a shop or a parts place do a scan and check for codes. This service at a shop is minimal and usually free at a parts store.
Then tell me what the codes are.
New User -
the automobile do not generate codes in the off,a was park for 30 days with aut running ,his voltage at that time was 11.4 volts,panel on .security light working correctly,key resistance value ok.5000 omhs.6spare keys same value.red ligth outside paneln blinking.i do not kwon wath that signal does,nathing in the squematic in regard to that ligth
engine overheating when driving, water pump changed,
thermostat changed, radiator changed,head gaskets changed and still overheating
Douglas -
"Is there any debris in front of the radiator (leaves, dirt, etc) restricting air flow? This is often overlooked when it plugs the condenser and restricts air flow.
Is the cooling fan working (especially if the problem occurs primarily when stopped in traffic.
Also make sure there is no air trapped in the system.
You may need to have what is called a "sniff test" or "block test" done by a shop. This will detect the presence of combustion gases in the cooling system. Most radiator shops perform this service.
BTW- Don't rule out a defective thermostat, new is not always good."
speedlube -
i already bleed the air in the system many times just to make sure, there is no dirt and leaves between the
radiator and condenser and in the front of the condenser, the car was checked by the radiator shop
and no problem was found but overheating remains.
speedlube -
i dont want to use your services because
is to slow
Bruce Kit -
When the engine is off, remove rad cap.Ensure rad is full.Start car with cap off.Watch coolant. It should not be moving (thermostat closed) after a few minutes the thermostat will open.Then you will see the coolant start to flow.Watch for any small bubbles. Let me know.I will be at my comp for 1/2 hr. then work
speedlube -
there is no bubles when the thermostat open
Douglas -
Was the radiator new? Feel the radiator to make sure temperature remains consistant (no blockage indicated by cold spots).
Let the engine continue to idle with the radiator cap off. Continue to check for air bubbles. Also for good coolant circulation (make sure the thermastat opens and closes consistantly). If at anytime you get air bubbles, combustion gases may be entering the system. GM recommends their block sealer to be used when the head gaskets are replaced (usually their engine come with it added at the factory).
I have a "Service Ride Control",indicator;(IO 0039)or something. I would like to fix everything according to OEM standerds; However the prices have renderd me to look to a bone yard & find some good deals. One question though, How do I know if the problem is the electro strut thingie, the compressor air pump doodad, or the computer's not jacked up?
macconeck -
This is a very touchy topic and a sensitive one with many caddie owners also one that has gone back and forth.
I can tell you now that this is a system that can really be proved by the GM dealership and they are aware of it ,also made a lot of money troubleshooting it .
It is no easy fix if there is one without changing out the $800.00 PCM.
I can save you a lot of questions and time if you would just visit this page copy and paste it in your browser http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/suspension-brakes-tires/5541-speed-sensitive-suspension-service-ride-control.html
I hope this helps
I am getting heat out of the passenger side but cold air out of the grivers side when I have set on heat.What may be wrong?
Douglas -
Try cycling from hot to cold noting if the temperature changes at all on the drivers side. This will let you know if the temp door actuator is malfunctioning.
New User -
Tried this didn't really seam to make a difference. Are there 2 heater coils with this?
Douglas -
If you have dual climate control you'll have two temp doors (two actuators).
New User -
It doesn't have dual climate control that's why I don't understand cold on drivers side and hot on passenger side
Douglas -
Can you change the temperaturre at all on the drivers side? Do you have electronic controls, I'm trying to get the right information.
New User -
I have no heat on the drivers side and it is all digital controls.
Douglas -
My information system does not cover this problem with your cadillac. 'Roger' will have this information, wait for his reply.
Roger -
Hi, Under the right side of the dash mounted on the HVAC case is a black box called a Programmer Assembly.
Remove the close out panel under the right side of the dash for access. Locate the programmer box. It has a multi-colored vacuum harness and an electrical connector connected to it.
At the top of the box you'll find a linkage rod snapped into a plastic clip at the end of a black plastic arm on the actuator motor. This is the linkage to the temperature door. When you change the temperature setting on the controls do you see this linkage move?
Look at the bottom of the programmer box for a second linkage like the one on the top of the box. If it is there does it move like the one on top? Has the linkage become disconnected from the actuator arm retaining clip?
NEW BLOWER MOTOR DOES NOT RUN. CAN MAKE IT RUN IN DIAGNOSTIC MODE.
Roger -
Hello, Was the blower motor not working and the new one won't either?
There is a Power Module under the hood on top of the firewall about half way across. Likely there is a black plastic access cover that will need to be removed to see the power module. The module has two electrical connectors plugged in and has three bolts holding it in place.
When a blower motor draws more than twenty amps for a continuous period longer than one minute the power module will eventually fail to provide a ground circuit for the motor to run.
When these cars were still in warranty and a blower motor caused a power module to fail, both were replaced at the same time. Then with the engine running and the blower motor on high speed after one clock minute of operation the amp draw must drop below 20 amps to be a reliable repair.
Roger
Roger -
Do you need additional info? Have you fixed this car?
Roger
New User -
thanks Roger I will have a mechanic check this power module for me. Sorry I take so long to respond, but I am not on the iternet at home and have to wait to get a booking at our small library. Winston
Roger -
Please let me know what more I can do for you. I'll be here.
Roger
Roger -
To close this question please click on OK to finish up.
Transmission will not go into gear unless I let the engine run (warmup) for about 5 minutes. It is worse in cold weather ... sometimes doesn't happen in warm weather. I've been told I need to rebuild / replace the transmission at a cost exceeding the value of the car (150,000 miles). It sounds more like it might be a bad solenoid or valve seal/o-ring to me. Is there a replaceable part (less than a whole tranny) to solve this?
Les -
Hi;
Sorry to hear about the cadi. But to tell you their is an eazy fix will be lying. The tranny has to come out and been gone thru. A good reputable trans shop in your area should be able to handle the task. There is a lot od o-rings inside the transmission to try to link it just to one. Another option is check your local salvage yards for a used one. Good Luck Les
1994 Cadillac DeVille Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always When cold
New User Asked -
I disconnected and cleaned the battery terminals. After I reconnected them, I went through the computer programming sequence in the owner's manual. Everything appeared to be normal. At completion, I shut off the engine. Now, everything is dead. No lights, no signs of life. The unloaded battery voltage is close to 13 volts. Any ideas?
Roger -
Hello, Have you disconnected the battery again to see if the connectors/terminals are in good condition? If the car acts completely dead then the battery cables are not making contact well enough to carry the amp load, or it is possible the positive cable bolt was overtorqued and the post has broken off the battery but remains attached to the cable terminal.
Often the positive post on the battery is the source of a leak. The acid forms corrosion you can see and clean away but also weakens the terminal post inside the battery where you can't see. It's not hard to twist the weakened post right off when you work on the connections.
Ensure the positive cable terminals are stacked and aligned and do not turn after you have tightened the bolt snug plus 1/4 turn.
1994 Cadillac DeVille Engine Failing When driving When warm
New User Asked -
I had been driving in heavy rain for 30 minutes. I stopped for ten minutes, got back in the car and started up. The engine stopped after going about 50 yards. It would crank but not run. After letting it sit for about 20 minutes it started and ran perfectly. No codes come up on the instrument panel check. The motor has never stalled before. Should I have the dealer run a dianostic?
Sterlingfixer -
If the car is running fine now, you likely will pay the dealer your hard-earned money and neither of you will know anything more---or he may give you a royal shopping list, expecting to list the problematic component somewhere between #1 and #20.
The most likely thing to cause your symptom is a faulty fuel pump. Again, it is difficult to prove while the car is running fine, but they will match your symptoms very well.
If you want to do something about it rather than waiting for a potential failure down the road, I suggest replacing your fuel pump (if not done recently). 70% chance your problem will be solved.
Dale
New User -
Thanks. The fuel pump has been replaced within the last year after dad ran the car in a ditch and damaged the gas tank. The car 107,000k. The new pump has 3-4 thousand miles on it. I recently replaced the shocks and struts with passive ones, but don't see how that would be related.
Sterlingfixer -
The shocks would definitely not be related to your current problem. common problems are the distributor, the ground stud on air conditioning bracket near starter, studs on bellhousing and/or ground stud near battery on body. Again, it will be very hard to pinpoint unless it shows itself when you are ready.
Dale
The power system of the car is completely dead. When I turn on the ignition key, nothing happens. The windows, radio, lights, digital panel, etc., nothing comes on.
New User -
Also, the car will not start either, it won't even turn over.
Roger -
Hello, It is common that the positive battery cable connection will have a build up of corrosion that prevents current flow.
To verify if this is the case with your car, protect your eyes and your hands then disconnect the battery cables. Ensure you have good ventalation as fumes from a battery can explode if you create a spark. I use a fan to blow across the engine area to push vapors away from the ongoing work. It's a good safety practice.
Remove the attachment bolts from the cable ends. The positive connection has two cables that are stacked. Seperate the cable ends. One of the cables has a thick spacer held in place by the red rubber protector. Pry it out so you can see beneath it. If the red protector will slide off take it off. If it won't slide off then stretch it over the edge of the cable metal cable terminal end.
Protect your eyes and hands. Clean away any corrosion you find. You can use a water and baking soda solution or a spray on battery cable cleaner product offered at a car parts store to neutralize the acid.
Clean the battery posts. Look at the posts for evidence of acid leaking from the post. If leaking replace the battery.
Reassemble the connections, charge your battery (If you are reusing the battery) and the car should start.
It is common for the car to not give any warning that the battery is failing. I have made many roadside service calls where the driver stopped the engine for a short time and upon restart attempts the car was electrically dead. If the cables were clean the battery had failed. Suddenly. If the cables were corroded a good cleaning would often bring the car back to service.
Questions?,
Roger
Roger -
How are you doing here?
Thanks,
Roger
New User -
Hi Roger:
Thanks for following up again. I followed your initial advice and cleaned the cables with no success, however, when I was cleaning the cables I did notice that there was no fire in the battery so I purchased a new battery and installed it. That worked and the car is running like a charm. Again, thanks.
Rick Dorr
Roger -
What then shall we do with this question?
To receive a refund write to All-Parts.com, Administrator, All-Parts.com and make your request known.
If you choose to accept my answer and allow me to be paid for my participation just click on the OK TO PAY MECHANIC button.
Either way works for me. I want you to be pleased with our efforts here and try us again when you need us.
1994 Cadillac DeVille Electrical / Lighting Systems Failing When idling No pattern
New User Asked -
"no battery charge" light comes on.
belt ok. new alternator.
disconnected battery while idle, engine stops indicating no power from alternator.
what is the problem
Roger -
Hello, Disconnecting the battery at idle and having the engine die is no longer an indication of an alternator fault. It was a true test before all these computers came along.
Did you have the new alternator tested?
With the engine running what voltage do you have when measuring at the battery post connections with a multimeter?
Roger
Roger -
Anything new here? Juat wanted to follow up.
Thanks,
Roger
Roger -
Please update your question status. I'd like to help you.
1994 Cadillac DeVille Fuel System Won't Start When starting
New User Asked -
The only time the car starts is when you add fuel to the car, but only for 5 seconds..Fuel pump, distributor, spark plugs, map sensors along with other sensors have been replaced, don't know what to do...Even put a new computer about 7 months ago as well.....Is there a reset button on these cars for the fuel? MykeyMykee31@aol.com
New User -
I paid 17.00 and theres no answer?
Roger -
Hello, What did you find when you checked the fuel pump fuse in the relay panel under the hood? Have you replaced the fuel pump relay?
Please note that this is not a live chat. I will check back often to keep up and do my best to provide what you need. Differences in time zones can cause some delay. I will help you.
Roger
New User -
I cannot find the fuse panel..I found a fuse box under the hood and in the trunk..but the relay box with the larger fuses I couldn't find under the rear seat. Could it be under the dash somewhere...thanks, and dont worry all fuses are good even the fuel pump one..I'll contribute again
[redacted]
Roger -
The large fuses under the hood are at the top of the firewall across the center and have black covers over them.
Do you hear the fuel pump run for two seconds when you first turn the key on but do not turn to START?
Under the hood you'll find the fuel pump fuse A 1(20 amp) powers the fuel pump relay located in the interior relay center. This fuse is switched hot by the ignition switch.
Can you monitor voltage at the fuel pump connector on the Gray wire and see if voltage is getting there for two seconds when the key is first turned to ON?
Roger
New User -
Voltage is there, I found the firewall it was very well hidden and under were the bigger fuses, Decided to check them, none of them are showing power, tried with the key off as well, cleaning them as I speak because it was dirty under there...I hear the fuel pump and the lines have all been checked as well, no problems...Any suggestions? Thanks, Mike
[redacted]
New User -
Mike,
So you are interested. You can come to me with any question you have. It doesn't take much money to get it started. You do not have to be insured to do Commercial. I can teach you how to clean and I can teach you how to bid. Within a month you can be making Cash, side money that you do not have to claim. You need to start thinking about a name. I have some a web site that I will direct you to. I will give you the access code so that you do not have to pay for the service.
Aleister
New User -
Sorry, a friend posted this...Don't like it when people use my pc...Dec 8/06 5:32PM: "Voltage is there, I found the firewall it was very well hidden and under were the bigger fuses, Decided to check them, none of them are showing power, tried with the key off as well, cleaning them as I speak because it was dirty under there...I hear the fuel pump and the lines have all been checked as well, no problems...Any suggestions? (Sorry for the previous e-mail posted...)
Roger -
You are saying you have no power shown on the Maxi-Fuses on the firewall?
If you hear the fuel pump run what is the fuel rail pressure?
Roger
New User -
From what I have learned, we checked the lines under the hood, there fine. There is however a reset button in the trunk on the left panel, is it possible I could just press that red button and problems solved? Man I hope so, if not Im not sure what to do. Im not a mechanic but this car has made me learn how to fix it, it bytes when your ride has been in ICU since before thanksgivivng.
Roger -
Yikes! I can't think of a Red Reset Button in the trunk from the factory. Did you press it yet? I can't see any harm to it.
My first thought is that it may release the trunk or the fuel service door.
Try it. You have my attention.
I think it valuable to take a fuel pressure reading. Can you do that?
hello my 94 deville is cutting out bad even at idle and does the same at any speed . put fuel injection cleaner in tank but still no difference acts like it has water in tank but it doesnt acts like it pulling a wagon down the road the way it jerks almost dies at a stop light
dont know if its plugs wires or what it hasd 109,000 miles on it
Roger -
Hello, How long (miles) since tune up? Plugs and wires may be all that it takes.
Roger
New User -
dont know I bought the car at 90,000 miles and at the time I was getting a hesitation at time when I accellerated fron a stop light and its only gotten worse gas milages is bad also
Roger -
I'd recommend removing the easiest spark plug or two you can get to for a look.
If the car is still equipped with platinum spark plugs they would be due replacement at 100K miles.
Are you getting a check engine light too?
Roger
New User -
already pulled plug it didnt look too bad not burnt or no build up and yes I am getting a check engine light
New User -
also getting a service ride control message too.
is there any way to read the codes it is putting out
I pulled them up once awhile back but I forgot how I did it used the climate control buttons for that
Roger -
Turn the ignition key to on. Press and hold the climate control OFF and WARMER buttons until the driver information center display changes and then release the buttons.
Watch the computers list the info they have stored in memory. Write down the codes beginning with the letter P. What are they?
You can exit diagnostics by turning the key OFF.
Roger
New User -
it said no pcm, no acp, no sir but then pcm? came up and it started out when I hit the fan button up each time
Those are data parameters. We won't need this info.
PCM? is a question. When you pressed fan up you said YES to the question. YES, you want to query the PCM. If you saw PCM INPUTS?, or PCM DATA?, or whatever....you said YES and the computer listed the info accordingly.
Pressing fan down is a NO answer to the question.
Since things started out with NO PCM there are no codes in memory for the powertrain.
I'm thinking plug wires to start this repair. If you haven't seen a spark plug from the firewall side of the engine you will want a look. If it is affordable I'd replace all plugs and wires, the fuel filter, and air filter if needed.
If you are getting a Service Ride Control there is likely a strut problem with controlling the firmness of the ride. This is an expensive repair.
Roger
New User -
thats what I had thought replacing the plugs wires
cap and rotor. So there is no way I can see what the actual problem is just start replacing parts. that is what I was afraid of
Roger -
There were no codes to send us in a different direction. We don't know the history on this one far back enough to have assurance wires and plugs were replaced.
When you remove the spark plugs look for cracks in the porcelin or carbon tracking down the side of the plug.
You can OHM test the spark plug wires looking for more than 10K OHMS on each length.
These are just maintenance items,
Roger
New User -
ok I guess I will do that. one more thing a mechanic
here said I needed a left rear tie rod or a left rear tie adjuster and cam bolt . I looked all over the internet for it and cant find it is it called something else. I am thinking that is what he calls it not what its real name is
New User -
would that be called a rear toe control arm or maybe not. anyway they cant get the toe adjusted because it is bent and dont know where to get a new one
Roger -
There is a bolt on the car frame that a technician will use to change/adjust toe-in settings.
This bolt has an eighteen milimeter bolt head size and runs through a slot. When this bolt is loosened a pry bar can be used to change the position of the lower control arm effecting a toe-in change.
Roger
New User -
so the part I need that is bent is the lower control arm instead of rear toe adjuster
Roger -
Get a second opinion from one who does four wheel alignments. Have them show you the problem and then choose what you will do or need to take corrective action.
The pressure was released on the low end, what meassures do you take to replace oil and coolant back into system? kelly
Roger -
Hello, Please advise what system you are referring to? Are you needing to work on the Climate Control?
Roger
New User -
all the oil and freon was has been released on the low pressure end on the a/c system what steps do we need to take to recharge with and oil the system-if possible? thanks kelly
Roger -
Kelly, If there are no freon leaks you can purchase both refrigerant oil charge and R-134A freon at Wal-Mart Supercenter or a local auto supply store.
If the oil/freon pressure release was uncontrolled (a line burst or accident impact) you'll need up to 8oz of PAG Refrigerant Oil and three cans of the R-134A freon.
If the system pressure was released slowly or leaked out over time any leak must be repaired before the system is recharged. In this case you'll need only 2oz PAG Oil and three cans freon.
Instructions on recharging the system can be found on tags that label the refrigerant products.
Do you have a compressor to evacuate the system? Pull a vacuum for at least thirty minutes to boil moisture out of the system, then recharge it.
Roger
New User -
Thanks for the info I am going to try that and see if I can get some cold air to start blowing.
Roger -
Do you know how to clear codes on this car?
If an a/c code is set or the outside temp reads 50 or below the compressor won't engage. Please advise if you have trouble getting the compressor to run.
1994 Cadillac DeVille Electrical / Lighting Systems
New User Asked -
I bought a replacement remote for my 94 sedan deville and cannot find the proper instructions for programming. One says ground the black wire which I did but the interior locks never locked and unlocked. Another instruction for a 93 had you jumping a couple of pins in the diagnostic port but the location was different so I dont want to try that one either. Thanks in advance.
Roger -
Hi, Where did you locate the black wire you grounded? How did you ground it?
I remember the black wire to be under the rear wall carpet trim of the trunk.
Roger
New User -
Jul 27/08 7:05PM: "Hi, Where did you locate the black wire you grounded? How did you ground it?
I remember the black wire to be under the rear wall carpet trim of the trunk.
Roger"
The internet directions said to remove the cover of the trunk closing mechinism and take the lone black wire and ground it out. I pulled the connector loose and ground the wire and waited with no results. I put the connector back on and grounded the pin when it was still connected and nothing happened with the locks. There was also a 3 wire connector under the plastic shield that had a black wire in the middle of the 3 wires and I grounded that wire and nothing happened with the locks.
Thanks for your assistance and hope you can send me on the right track.
Roger -
The wire you want to ground is not now connected to anything. You will not re-connect it to anything when you are finished.
You might find the black wire taped to the rear light harness to the right of the trunk pull-down unit.
Look again for the correct wire.
Roger
New User -
You are correct. First thing, the pull down motor is on the bottom not the top where I had taken the cover off. After your message I started looking at the bottom and located the correct wire that was unhooked under the plastic on the bottom latch. I grounded it just now and programmed the remotes in about 5 seconds. You just saved me from paying the dealer to do the same thing. Thanks for your help!
after having a starter replaced, during which the battery was disconnected. The heater goes from heat to blowing nothing but cold air from the defrost, and the display changes to dashes instead of showing temp.
Douglas -
Hello,
You need to reset the (HVAC) system. The instructions should be in your owners manual. Try this and let me know if functionality is restored. If you cannot find instructions or don't have your owners manual, let me know and I'll add the instructions here.
New User -
Thank you, could you go ahead and add instructions, haven't been able to find in book.
Thanks!
Douglas -
First try disconnecting the battery for ten minutes and retrying. Some vehicle are very fussy when it come to how quickly the battery is reconnected.
I am having trouble with my repair information at the moment, but the following link appears to have what you need-
Check for codes then clear the codes to reset. Write down the codes and post them here if the reset does not restore function.
New User -
Ok, tried that, didn't seem to do the trick, her are codes as seen after getting into diagnostics:
NO PCM CODES
CODE I034
CODE I037
CODE I039
NO ACP CODES
NO SIR CODES
Then it goes to:
PCM?
ICP?
ACP?
SIR?
I can get into ICP data, ICP imput, ICP Clear Codes
But can't make sense of it,
Is there a way to reset the system here somehow??
Thanks again.
New User -
Sorry, meant to let you know it is working some of the time, but never know when it will start and or stop working. Also read somewhere about turning ignition off a number of times to set? but can't find how that fits into all the rest??
New User -
Sorry again, codes all had Current after the number
Douglas -
Okay, clear the codes and try again. This will reset the system. If the code sets again you'll need to do in depth troubleshooting, likely requiring a scanner (professional diagnostic tool) to communicate the modules in your car (you cars computer system).
I have a 1994 Cadillac Sedan Deville 4.9 liter engine. I cannot get it to start without the assistance of spraying starter fluid in it. However, once the car is running it idles smoothly, and is very responsive when I hit the gas. I have changed the fuel relay and the fuel filter. I was originally going to change the fuel pump, but it did not seem to make sense to me , as the car runs PERFECTLY once it is started. I am at a loss as to what this could be. It SEEMS that the car is not getting enough fuel, but ONLY at start up.
Douglas -
Have you checked fuel pressure? Alternatively, do you hear the fuel pump prime during initial Key On and during Engine Cranking when the problem is present?
New User -
I have uncapped the fuel line at the engine. It "appeared" as tho PLENTY of fuel was rushing out. And yes, I do indeed hear the fuel pump kick on when the ignition key is turned to the on position, and again, the car seems to runs completely smoothly once I get past the initial start up. To my understanding if i had a bad fuel pump, it shouldn't allow the car to run, and or run so well.
New User -
Also, if i run the car, then shut it off and go back an hour, or 2-3 hours later it will kick right over no problem. But if it sits, lets say over night, then in the morning it wont kick over without the starter fluid.
Douglas -
Correct, it sounds like you are missing injector pulse to the fuel injectors. Use noid light to check for injector pulse. Call autozone or advance auto and see if they loan these (for a fully refundable deposit).
Let me know if you have injector pulse?
New User -
what exactly is injector "pulse"??? And do you have the option to email me at my home email? I am at work and leaving for the day. Home email is [redacted]
New User -
When I do a diagnostic (pressing "off" and "warmer") I am getting a code of P102. When I look this up it tells me this means "no distributor signal". But it seems to me that i have a fuel problem, not a distributor problem, or else the car wouldn't start even with the starter fluid ... correct?? Thanks for the opinions.
Bruce Kit -
Your local auto parts store should be able to find you some test 'noid' lights so you can test the injector pilse...if you have no crank position sensor signal...the computer will not read signal and not trigger injector pulse.
New User -
So, if i have no crank position signal ... is that what would cause it to say "no distributor signal"?
Bruce Kit -
Yes as it is the first in a chain
Crank pos sens- cpu- ignition module.
Crank position sensors can be erratic
when old, sometimes temp sensitive
eventually quitting all together. Some
times a failed sensor will not show up
on a code read.
New User -
Sounds very logical to me. Is there a throttle censor on there that could cause this problem as well? Also, is it possible for it to flat out BE the distributor cap, rotor, pick up coil ..?? Or is that not an option because the car does ultimately start?
Bruce Kit -
There is a throttle position sensor and a Idle Air Sensor in the throttle body. Would not hurt to remove the air intake tube and spray Air Intake Cleaner inside. It does get dirty in there. That might help, but I do not believe it is the problem.
1994 Cadillac DeVille Electrical / Lighting Systems
New User Asked -
for some reason my parking lights will not go off.. even whe the key is removed from the ingition.. this of course draws down the battery overnight.. I have replaced the switch module located on the dash to the left of the steering wheel.. I have replaced the daylight sensor under the dash grill work.. and i have tried to remove the appropriate fuses all to no avail.. if you could help with this problem it would be greatly appreciated.. bustermiller@juno.com
Douglas -
Hello,
Unplug the headlight/parking switch, do the parking lights go out?
If not unplug the twilight module (I assume this what your replaced), do the lights go out now?
New User -
caddilac light problem-- i followed your instructions and there was no change.. the parking lite/ turn signal still stayed on even when the key was removed.
I then went to the salvage yard and got another of the light switches.. again no change.. this time i tested it at night and noticed that the little lites on the dash were also on.. not the major spedpometer etc but the small litte lites behind the push buttons.
If i pull the 6 pin connector off the switch the parking lites do go out... but the litte dash lites remain on.. If i replug the connector the turn signals do work with regular on the left turn and a fast blink on the right.. hazard flasheres also work.
what other ideas have you... I did remove the twilite senso and no change..
When I reach between 45-60mph or which i believe is 3rd gear, it starts shaking/jerking the car. ONLY when I press on the gas, as soon as i let off the gas the shaking/jerking completely stops until i press the gas again. I got new tires/brakes/rotors and still having the problem. I don't want to spend any more money until I am sure what the problem might be thank you.
Douglas -
Hello,
Where is the shaking/jerking felt? Front, left, right, center etc?
Shawn -
I can feel the shaking/jerking in the steering wheel and also the gas pedal, but it shakes/jerks the whole car. If i had to specify where it was coming from i would say its mainly coming from the front end of the car.
Shawn -
It almost feels like something in the engine is slipping and wants to go but cant, I can still accelerate, it doesn't start until 45-60mph I dont know what else it could be.
Douglas -
Is the engine cutting out or misfiring or does the engine still run fine?
Have you had the engine and transmission mounts checked? These can through the drivetrain alignment off which can cause your problem. Firmly apply the brake and shift from Drive to Reverse, and vise-versa. Do you hear an unusual amount of engine/trans movement? A small amount is normal but if you get a clunk chances are you have a bad mount. Give me an update.
1993 Cadillac DeVille Heating / Cooling System Happens always Always
QQICK Asked -
the coolant/temp light comes on/goes off continuously while I am driving, sitting still, with and without heater/defroster etc
but I do not have any heat, but the air-conditioner works, I check the coolant level several times a week and see no problems there. I am almost certain that the car is not overheating
I have recently had the following replaced:
water pump August 2002
radiator January 2003
thermostat X 2 in March
Any suggestions on what else I can get checked or any suggestions of what might be causing this.
My brother told me to get this checked - Climate Control Sensor or something? any suggestions would be apprecieated. thanks in advance
Kerry -
The coolant sensor needs to be changed. It is usually located in the radiator, or on the engine block.
The water valve for the heater core needs to be checked for proper operation. Since this is a vacuum operated device, the vacuum control tubes for it need to be checked. As old as your vehicle is, it is likely that several vacuum lines are going to need to be replaced.
For what it is worth, the thermostat is only for the engine cooling, it has nothing to do with your problem. Your problem has to do with getting hot water into the heater core. Concentrate on that problem.
Most vehicles use engine created vacuum to control many things under the hood. If the vacuum system develops a leak, or gets stopped up, certain
things will quit. Your heating problem is probably one of those situations.
The coolant temp light is from a sensor that is not operating properly. Get that fixed and then see about the heater problem.
It really is not complicated, some people want you to believe that it is, however.
QQICK -
Although my car is old it only has 77,890 miles on it. This problem all started when I went in for no heat. They found a leak in the radiator and replaced that... then it was still without heat and thats when the thermostat was replaced. it worked for about two weeks until this light started to come on and off.
Is it damaging my car at all, is it something that I should attend to immediately or can I take it in at my leisure? what I mean is that I've been driving it like this, but if its not damaging the car at all I would like to take it in at my leisure. whats your opinion on this?
QQICK -
"Although my car is old it only has 77,890 miles on it. This problem all started when I went in for no heat. They found a leak in the radiator and replaced that... then it was still without heat and thats when the thermostat was replaced. it worked for about two weeks until this light started to come on and off.
Is it damaging my car at all, is it something that I should attend to immediately or can I take it in at my leisure? what I mean is that I've been driving it like this, but if its not damaging the car at all I would like to take it in at my leisure. whats your opinion on this?"
Kerry -
Yes, the sensor should have been checked.
Engine damage is not likely.
What I have mentioned should be followed.
The thermostat is a control for the flow of coolant in the engine. The sensor detects coolant temperature.
The fact that it is doing what you report indicates failure of that part, not the thermostat.
If the thermostat had failed, it would do so either opened, or closed.
Either way, the engine would overheat.
If the thermostat failed closed, there would be no circulation of coolant and the engine would overheat.
If the thermostat failed open, then the coolant would flow through the radiator constantly, with no time to cool, thus overheating the engine.
The thermostat is simply a heat controlled flow regulator.
It's number one purpose is to keep the engine within a given temperature range.
It does this in part by allowing the water time to remain in the radiator to cool down before flowing back into the engine.
I'm going to refer you to a mechanic who can give you even better information on exactly where to find your problems' source, and the why of that problem.
His name is Myles Horton, he works for S/S Alignment in Elmira, NY.
C all information and get the telephone number for S/S Alignment.
Call them and ask for Myles Horton.
If anyone can give you the exact why, as opposed to likely causes for your problem, he can.
When I put the tranny in drive just after starting the car it won't move. However, after 30 seconds or so it works fine and continues working fine as long as it is warm.
Roger -
Hello, How many miles on your car? Has the fluid level been chcked and found to be full when completely warmed up? Is it perhaps time to have the filter changed?
Please advise,
Roger
-
I'm looking to buy this car so I don't know the background. Fluid level is full when warm, though.
I'm looking for worst case scenario. Thanks
Roger -
Worst case of course would be an overhaul of the transmission. If the seller can't speak for the car's history either and won't have this problem addressed by a service technician for evaluation, I'd pass unless the price compensates you properly.
If a seal in the transmission is allowing cool fluid to bypass until things warm up from operation and seal pressure, it's still got to be removed from the car to repair. This can mean less parts but no less labor than overhaul. There may be a Technical Service Bulletin that Cadillac has issued that applies here.
That being said, it's fair to say that if the filter in the transmission is nearing capacity and fluid is slow to be drawn through the fluid pick-up path due to a restricted filter screen, a simple fluid and filter service may be the cure.
This car has not given me one problem until a couple weeks ago--my brother has tried to figure this thing out to no avail. It just stopped on me while I was at the mailbox--went to pull away and nothing--just the dash was lit up. Have changed teh spark plugs, had the module checked out--it passed--he knows it is a sensor of some sort but his machine to check the codes is not equipped with the correct plug in for this car. There seems to be no spark to get this car to start--any suggestions?
Roger -
Hello, Disconnect the TWO wire connector from the ignition module that is inside the distributor cap. These wires go to the PICK-UP COIL. Using an OHM Meter test only the two wires in the connector for a resistance value of the pick-up coil. Probe one of the wires in the connector with one test lead from the meter and probe the remaining wire in the connector with the other test lead. We are looking for 700-900 OHMs. (DO NOT test the module with an OHM Meter.)
IF the pick-up coil passes the OHM test then replace the ignition coil in the top of the distributor cap. You stated you had the ignition module tested and it is good so that leaves the pick-up coil and the ignition coil.
Replacement of the pick-up coil will require removal of the distributor from the engine.
Please advise,
Roger
New User -
OK--if I am correct I watched him check the pick up coil and the ignition coil whith the OHM meter and they passed as well--could it be a possibility that since my ignition key has a computer chip in it as well that it may have gone bad and cause this not to fire? Please advise
Roger -
No, its not your ignition key chip or the starter wouldn't even turn the engine over at all.
There is a tach signal terminal in the distributor cap next to where the red colored wire plugs into the cap to power the coil. Can you make a pigtail wire and connect it to this tach terminal for a test?
With the pigtail connected to the tach signal terminal in the distributor cap:
Connect a 12 volt test light aligator clip end to 12 volts DC so that when you touch the probe end to any ground the test lamp will light. Touch the probe end of the test light to the free end of the pigtail you made and while someone cranks the engine over watch and see if the test lamp flashes. If it does, look inside the distributor cap at the condition of the carbon button that makes contact with the center tab of the rotor bug. If it is bad replace the dist cap. If it is OK, replace the ignition coil.
If the test lamp remains on, or remains off (no flashes) test the pick up coil output for ac milivolts (connector disconnected from the module just like the OHM test) while some one cranks the engine. If milivolts are produced, replace the module.
1993 Cadillac DeVille Heating / Cooling System Malfunction When driving Always
New User Asked -
Hello my outside climate control temp. stay's on -40 degrees and my heat will not get hot I changed the ambient sensor under the hood and disconnected the battery to reset and this didn"t work And I can drive and the dash board light will go out and the blower will come on and I can' turn off the blower and after awhile the lights will come back on.
Thank you,Arthur
Sterlingfixer -
"Arthur,
Sounds like you have a problem with the climate control head (dash unit). Before you replace it, check your power and ground wires coming into it so as to be certain there is not simply a wiring issue causing your problem.
Dale"
1993 Cadillac DeVille Electrical / Lighting Systems Happens always Always
New User Asked -
When the AC comes on it blows the AMP ERLS fuse, also the doors will unlock what could be the problem.
Roger -
I'll access the Mitchell 1 Auto Repair Data Base for a schematic and get back to you today.
Roger
Roger -
I'm not finding a fuse listed as "AMP ERLS". However, fuses in the data base are numbered for the instrument panel fuse box.
Do you know the number of the fuse that blows?
Please advise,
Roger
New User -
The fuse is located in the RELAY Panel under to glove compartment it it rates at 15 AMP.
Roger -
Thanks, I'll see what I can find listed for the relay panel.
Roger
Roger -
Okay, Fuse #2 (15 amp) in the relay center powers alot of systems. From what I see I'd look first in the cigar lighter sockets in all of the doors for a piece of metal. I've found paper clips, staples, coins, gum wrappers -anything metal- the cause of a short.
Do you have a fax number? I can send you a schematic for the power distribution of the fuse in question.
Your thoughts?,
Roger
New User -
No but if the file is .pdf you can email it me @ [redacted]
Roger -
Let me see if I can make a pdf file and get it to you.
Did you find any metal in a cigar lighter socket on any door? It seemed the easiest thing to do without disassembling anything.
Roger
Roger -
I sent you the five pages I found in .pdf form. Please let me know on this site if all five pages will open.
Look things over and then lets continue here.
Thanks,
Roger
New User -
No I didn't find any
Roger -
All right, please look at Fig. 43 Power Distribution Wiring Diagram (2 of 4). Locate the small box in the top 1/3 of the right side of the page labeled RELAY CENTER. Follow the path of the Orange (ORG) Wire to all of the items powered by that fuse.
See if you can purchase a 15 amp circuit breaker to plug into where the fuse belongs. Even a 10 amp breaker will work. Using a breaker in place of the fuse will allow you to locate and unplug components one at a time until the circuit breaker resets and no longer "trips". This will save you time and the expense of popping the fuse repeatedly while you isolate the short. I must caution you that the circuit breaker will get HOT from tripping repeatedly until you find the component that is causing the short.
If you have located and unpluged everything shown to be on the fuse #2 circuit and the breaker still will not reset then you have an orange wire pinched, pierced by a screw or the edge of a bracket/brace, etc.
Give some thought to the car's repair history. If you have a wiring short instead of a shorted component you'll want to look where others have been working on the car.
For example, was a door trim panel removed for any reason? What about the installation of any kind of aftermarket equipment? (phone, stereo, alarm, remote start system, ONSTAR and so on..) Has the car had an accident repair?
This path of thinking will guide where to start looking for a pinched/pierced wire. It can be very daunting and frustrating to chase a shorted wire, but this is the best way.
1993 Cadillac DeVille Engine Won't Start Happens sometimes When warm
New User Asked -
My 1993 Cadillac Deville don't start when it's hot. I replaced the battery, starter, alternator, wires. Cannot figure out the problem. The car starts fine when its cold. After driving for a while, it seems to run hot but does not overheat. After I turn the car off, it will not start again until it is completely cooled off. If I jump the car, it turns right over. Please Help!
Roger -
Hi, When you replaced the battery did you take the positive cable connection ends apart and clean out corrosion? There are two cables held together by the attachment bolt.
If you take the cables apart and remove the lead spacer you can see the teh connection terminal. I force the red trim plastic covering from the edge of the terminals so I can clean the cable ends thouroughly.
Will you please take a look and see if corrosion is the problem? Disconnect the negative battery cable first and then the positive. Reconnect the negative last on reassembly.
Please advise,
Roger
New User -
All new wires and no corrosion. The lead spacer was missing so I put in a few washers to keep the terminals tight. The wires were loosening up and I thought this was killing the battery. Since I put in the washers, the cables have stayed tight and did install a new battery
New User -
The fan runs when you start the car. After driving the car and its hot, the fans are off. Could this be a sensor and if so, where is it located? Could this be the problem? Also, the a/c pressure clutch plate burnt out around the same time the car started doing this. I havent had that fixed yet. Could this cause my car not to start after it gets hot?
Roger -
When you start the car and the engine is cold the cooling fans should not run unless the A/C is turned on.
If the A/C clutch burned up that would mean the A/C compressor has seized up. But that should not hinder engine start when the engine is at operating temoerature.
Let's check the codes and see what is there. (Maybe nothing as disconnecting the battery will clear codes)
With the key on and the engine OFF hold down the climate control OFF and WARMER buttons at the same time until the display on the climate control panel changes to the l e d segment check and then release the buttons.
Write down the codes. Codes beginning with an E are powertrain codes and codes beginning with a B are body codes (which include the A/C). An E52 code calls for no action if it displays. We can ignore that code.
To exit diagnostics you may press the AUTO button on the climate control panel or simply turn the key to OFF.
Do you have a ground wire from the negative on the battery to the engine and another ground from the battery negative to the car body? Do you have a ground (usually a braided strap) from the engine to the body?
It would be best to get the stack of washers out of the positive cable connection to the battery and install the lead spacer. All those washers can impede amperage flow as they raise resistance values and develop heat. Also dis-similar metals will corode.
It takes more power to start a hot engine than a cold one. Can you have the starter amp draw tested? It should not exceed 175 amps.
Roger
New User -
No codes came up as u expected. I will be putting in the lead spacer and checking the starter amp today. Its the radiator fans that do not run when the car is hot, not the a/c fans. I also told u that it was the a/c pressure clutch plate that went. It is actually the a/c clutch COIL and Connector. When this went, I was driving, the check engine light came on, the tranny locked up in 3rd gear. I had to manually shift the car. I found a blown fuse (5amp) changed it and cleared the codes. (sry dont know what code) The tranny was fine after that but thats when the car started running hot. Could this be something with the a/c cluch coil (maybe its stuck?) I will do that spacer and test the starter and let u know what happens. If it could be that a/c part, please respond asap and I will order them. Thanks
Roger -
The failed a/c clutch coil should not factor as cause for the radiator cooling fan not running when the engine is hot enough to call for cooling fan operation.
If the a/c were OFF the cooling fan should still work when called for.
The cooling fan relays are located on the firewall under the plastic cover you see that goes from near center of the car to the right side of the firewall.
The relay closest to the a/c accumulator is the a/c compressor relay. The others clustered together are fan relays.
With the engine cool and the key OFF try to jumper the cooling fan motor direct to the battery to verify the motor is good. You'll need 10 gauge wire to handle the load of the motor.
If the motor runs OK I'd recommend replacing the relays. (One is low speed and one is high speed.) If the motor won't jump direct to the battery and run then instead of relays replace the motor.
NOTE:
On some models the cooling fan relays are mounted on a bracket on the left front strut tower.
We have a miss in the engine. When it is warm outside the engine will stop and then it sounds like it is running backwards. We have been told it needs a part that tells the computer that the engine is turning, but when checking on the part we were told the engine does not need that part or it is no longer available.
Roger -
Hello, What diagnosis work has been done so far? Has anyone checked for codes? Does the check engine light come on while driving?
Are you saying that in warm weather the engine dies? If so, will it restart?
4.9L engine?
Roger
New User -
Yes diagnosis was done on the car. I do not know what code came up, I was told it need a camshaft sensor switch. When I checked on the part, I was told the year and engine did not require that part. Then I was told the part is no longer available.
Yes The check engine light stays on and the engine will start right up after it quits. You cant drive only about 50 feet and it would quite again.
I had this happen to me when I was about home. The way I got home was to get the car to the top of a hill and start the car and get speed up and then shut the engine down. This gave time to whatever the problem is to cool down and let me start the car and run long enough to get up the next hill.
Roger -
Hello, Your engine dies often because the crankshaft sensor is failing.
To prove this, purchase a can of spray brake parts cleaner. When the engine stalls just spray the crankshaft sensor with the brake cleaner. The spray will cool the sensor and the engine will restart immediately.
What is keeping the check engine light on and setting the camshaft sensor code is seldom the sensor.
On the cam gear there is a small magnet gluded to the gear at manufacture. This magnet comes off after years of service. The cam gear is not magnetic or the sensor would never "see" the magnet when it appears during gear rotation.
With the cam sensor removed from the front cover on the engine you can rotate the engine by hand until the place for the magnet on the cam gear comes into view. If the magnet is gone (looks like a watch battery) then that is the reason for the code to set. The car's computer will ignore the missing signal and use the crankshaft signal to index fuel and spark.
If you replace the crankshaft sensor your stalling trouble should end. To get the camshaft sensor trouble to go away the best repair is to pull the front cover off the engine and clean the cam gear and glue a magnet back onto the gear.
Most owners tolerate the check engine light remaining on and will not fix the cam gear magnet issue because with a good crankshaft sensor the engine runs all right without it.
Questions?
Roger
New User -
Thank you for all your help. I just need to know where the crankshaft sensor is so I can try what you told me.
Thanks afain for all your help
Roger -
The crankshaft sensor is just behind the crankshaft pulley. You'll see a wire harness in that area that is connected to the sensor. Leave it connected.
Look for brake cleaner that has a straw that attaches to the nozzle so you can aim the spray. Spraying the general area is all that is needed so long as you feel you sprayed the sensor to cool it.
Roger
New User -
Thank you again for all your time and help. I have not yet looked for the sensor, but I did make a phone call to see if the sensor was available. I was told it is not available and the camshaft sensor is not required on a 1993 Cadillac Deville. I am wondering if I left any information out that might help you. Oh it was Autozone I checked with on the part.
Roger -
No, you haven't left anything out that would change my approach here.
This crankshaft sensor requires removal of the crankshaft pulley to replace. And the sensor must be indexed in position with a special tool so the fins on the backside of the crank pulley will not strike and damage the new sensor. Position is critical.
The auto parts stores loan/rent tools to do this job. You may want to inquire as to availability of the tool when you go to get the new part.
1993 stops running with the gauge showing 3 gallons remaining in the tank. When I restart it will run a mile or two then quit again. When I add fuel it will run OK until the it hits the 3 gallon mark. I have taken it to the dealer and they said there were no tank baffles loose and are uncertain exactly what the problem is. Tehy ahve not run into this before. Is it a faulty sensor, fuel pump, etc. What is the best way
to trouble shoot and detect the problem?
but they are not certain what the problem is
Roger -
Hello,
The in-tank fuel pump and fuel sending unit are sold as an assembly and it is expensive. You could spend $400 on parts and labor.
The existing tank unit can simply be unplugged and a new tank unit can be plugged in to see what the gauge will indicate with the new unit float down in the empty position.
Electrical parts are not returnable so they surely hesitate to try this step to prove the fault.
It's your call. Do you want to fix this or refuel before you gat as low as three gallons?
Roger
New User -
Roger, Thanks for your response. However that option has been discussed and the service tech and myself are looking for a less expensive solution if it is not the problem. Before we proceed with that fix, how certain can we be that it is indeed the sensor? Is there any other possibilities? Tank pressure,fuel pump?
Roger -
The dealer has a required tool to simulate empty, half, and full tank. Not all dealers have kept this tool nor replaced it if it broke or was lost.
Aftermarket or salvage parts are the remaining options if the test tool is not available to control costs.
Roger
New User -
They have already gone that route and could not detect anything abnormal.
Roger -
If they used the tool I described in place of the tank unit and the gauge performed properly it's a given there is a problem with the current sending unit.
Dropping the tank is needed to see if there is a reason the sending unit hangs up at 3 gallons. If no obstruction is found, replace the tank sending unit.
some times it wont start.Starter turns over but wont start. When driveing,not always, intermitant the speed
omiter needle will drop to zero also the miles per gal. indacator willdrop to zero. than when the gas pedal is pushed it will ever so slight hesatate but
than resume to read all insterments and speed. Could
This be the fuel filter????? Or what do you think???
Roger -
Hello, I don't see the speedometer issue related to the crank no start issue.
The condition of no start will have to be present to diagnose properly. When the condition is present we'll need to know if there is spark and what the fuel pressure is.
The instruments and hesitation may be a bad connection...possibly a ground wire connection.
Do you have a way to test for spark and for fuel pressure?
Roger
New User -
Roger; I guess i did not make myself clear. after a few atempts the engine will start and does run but these other things that I discribed happen also after I am driveing speed needle drops to zero slight hesatation in engine but when I accelerate the speed needle reads normal and so does the miles per gal data go to normal.All these things happend at the same time. Wish I could talk to you on the phone. Rich
goes to normal
Roger -
Have you located the speed sensor on the top of the transaxle to check it's connector and for secure mounting?
Will the cruise control work when the condition is present? If it does the speed sensor is not at fault even if the speedometer is inop.
The delay when you begin to accelerate could be the transmission shifting or the torque converter re-applying.
Roger
Roger -
How are you doing here? Please update.
Roger
Roger -
Do you need something else on this question? If not please click on OK to finish up.
1993 Cadillac DeVille Electrical / Lighting Systems
New User Asked -
I have the Driver side door lock/unlock switch that does no operate porperly. From the passeenger side I can lock and unlock all doors so the mechnism seems to be working but the switch willwill sometimes lock from the driver side but will not unlock at all. I believe I need to replace the switch itself but unable to find part number or proper cadillac name so I might be able to find a used part. Please let me know If I am on the right trck or get a part number.
Thanks!!!!!
Douglas -
You also want to check to see that there are no broken wires, most notable where the wire go through the rubber boot between the door and frame.
The part you are looking for is a master window switch. Copy and Paste the following link into your address bar.
From this link Enter- Year, make, model, then click on REPLACEMENT PARTS. Then click on SWITCHES. Finally click on POWER WINDOW SWITCH. Once you click on individual results note there is link to SEE ALL VEHICLES THIS PART FITS-- an example-
1992 Cadillac DeVille Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens always No pattern
New User Asked -
Blower motor will only start if you tap the motor housing with a screw driver. Then, it will vary its speed on its own, slow, fast, etc. I tried to remove the motor but the squirral cage is to wide to get the motor out. Suggestions?
kaptnzog -
O.K.,before going through the trouble of the motor change out,has actual power being sent to the motor been tested?How about the fan motor resistor?This would be one of my first checks since you say the motor works but it varies its speed on its own.The control head also comes into question.I used to own a GM vehicle that I finally traced down the blower motor switch at fault.Yes,motors do get tired, but somtimes the cause is by an errant electrical feed.
Good Luck,
Paul
New User -
I called the dealer and he said there was no resitor going to the motor. I have pulled the motor and blew it out. A lot of black residue came out of it. Should I replace the motor since it is already out?
kaptnzog -
The carbon residue tells me the windings and armature in the motor are having a hard time.Again power supply could be at question but if it tests out to be sufficient,the motors tired.
Good Luck,
Paul
New User -
Hi Paul,
I cleaned out the motor and greased the rear bearing. Put the motor back in and did a test drive. So far, it works better than ever. Fingers crossed.
Thank you
Bob
kaptnzog -
Glad to hear it.It my be a band-aid fix for now,but if the bearing becomes dry again,the armature and bearing are getting tired.
Good Luck,
Paul
1992 Cadillac DeVille Ignition System Malfunction When starting No pattern
New User Asked -
I have replaced the starter and battery on my 1992 DeVille. When the new starter was placed on the vehicle it started 3 times in a row without difficulty. After resting for a period 2 minutes, it failed to start again. The starter appeared to be properly grounded but when attempting to start the vehicle a 4th time sparks/flame showed near the starter. What is causing the vehicle not to start properly and what is causing the circuitry to arc at this time?
Bruce Kit -
Usually, sparks etc near the starter is a result of the starter/battery cable being not tight or not oriented properly. The end of the cable, or terminal has an "indexing' tab that is used to orient the cable in the proper position.It is poss that this is in the wrong position, and grounding.
New User -
The cables are tight, there is no evidence of spark/arc this morning. It started initially but will not turnover again. It will crank but will not start at all at this time. The battery level is showing 12v, the starter in new and the problem of it starting still remains ...
Bruce Kit -
People buy new cars that cost 30-40 thousand dollars, that are sitting at the dealership getting warranty repairs, while they are taking a bus to work!
Do not assume that, even if your starter is new (probably rebuilt?)that it is perfect.
Check the mounting bolts also, to ensure that they are tight, as they form one side of the current flow (the ground -).
If all is good, then may I suggest replacing it? The rebuilt starter in my towtruck lasted 2-3 days, then I had to replace it! I got a refund, and went to a different manufacturer. The 2nd one lasted years!
12 volts is a wee bit low, by the way.
1992 Cadillac DeVille Ignition System Won't Start Happens always Always
New User Asked -
Car stalled would not restart. no current at dist. New cap & rotor. coil, pickup coil and ign mod check ok. Relays & fuses ok. New batt. fuel data center was acting up before this. car ran good and just died out. Happened three months ago but started back up.
Douglas -
Have you confirmed the rotor is moving (distributor cap removed for observation) during engine cranking?
Have you checked for trouble codes? If you need instructions let us know.
New User -
rotor is turning. only code showing E52. I replaced batt after it died.
New User -
still waiting for answer.
Douglas -
Sorry for the delay.
You need to check for 'key on' battery positive voltage to the coil. If the ignition components are good you are likely missing power. How were the igntion components tested?
Never overlook fuses when you have electrical failure.
New User -
Had no positive voltage with key on. Autozone tested ign mod, rest of components were tested with volt/ ohmeter. All fuses and relays ok.
Douglas -
Okay, were you using a known good ground for the power test? If you were you need to start trace the wire to inspect for any damage, if it is okay you'll probably want to start testing for power at the ignition switch.
BTW- Have you ruled out any problems with the security system- IE- the light behaving differently when you try to start the car.
New User -
Could not find any bad wires. Ther is a pink wire 10-12 ga. with a white connector, hangs near distributor. Can't find in my schematic.? Six years ago replaced ign switch harness. Security system has never worked.
Car starts fine, but while driving no matter what speed, dies.
Douglas -
How long does it take to restart?
New User -
Restarts right away. Drove it 7 miles awhile ago on highway ran fine. Turned around to come back, was going 60 mph and died. Died several more times before getting home. Runs fine in park.
Douglas -
You will need to check the trouble codes to see if the computer recognized any problem.
For instant shut downs (not chugging as if you were running out of gas) these are often caused by a bad crank sensor, ignition module or ignition switch. The wiring is also possible, but difficult to work on. GM also had some trouble with their computers back then, so the ECM is also questionable.
1992 Cadillac DeVille Electrical / Lighting Systems
New User Asked -
The car would not start. No sounds, nothing. Took the battery out , had it tested. No charge. I bought a new battery. When I put it in the car, all the lights went on and stayed on. The alarm sounded. Then the theft deterrent wnet into action and the car will not start. This continued even when the key was removed. I disconeccted the battery. I am loooking for a a fuse diagram to see if that is contributing to the problem.
Roger -
Hello, Do you have a factory alarm with keyless entry?
Connect the battery and use the key fob unlock button to unlock the car and disarm the alarm.
If no key fob, use the door key to unlock either front door and the alarm should stop.
Roger
New User -
Yes , it is the original factory installed keyless entry. I have two keys, neither worked. I am the second owner of the car and the key fob given to me has never worked.
Roger -
You tried unlocking both front doors and neither side disarmed the alarm??
Are the key fob batteries good?
Roger
New User -
The answer to the first part is yes nothing worked. Even though the battery had been recently replaced, I put in a new one. It still did not work. When I reconnect the battery, the alarm starts immediately whether the doors are open or closed. I have visually check the fuses near the hood release in teh car. What next?
Roger -
After connecting the battery and the alarm is sounding will turning the ignition key on stop the alarm?
There is a switch on the trunk lock that is cable operated when the key is turned in the trunk lock. It is supposed to allow you to open the trunk even when the alarm is set and not set off the alarm.
Try to locate the electrical connector for this switch near the trunk latch in the deck lid. Disconnect it electrically.
Try again connecting the battery and using a door key to unlock a front door and see if the alarm cancels/disarms.
If this works you may choose to leave the trunk lock swich disconnected knowing a thief breaking into the trunk will not set the alarm off.
Roger
New User -
Putting in the ignition key does not stop the alarm. We have a second ignition key, it does not stop the alarm either.
I disconnected the trunk and that did not make a difference.
Disconnecting the alarm sound will not work because the alarm still has the car locked in the anti-theft mode.
Roger -
A Cadillac factory installed alarm will flash the exterior lights and sound the car horns in a pulse mode.
Does your car do this or is there a different siren?
Roger
New User -
The alarm and lights pulse in a continuous pattern. The horns change the tune but the pulse is the same.
Roger -
My experience includes more than fourteen years at a Cadillac Dealership as a service department Master Technician. I've worked on the 1992 DeVille since it was new and I am still trying to be convenced this is the factory alarm as opposed to a dealer installed aftermarket alarm.
Does the car have a red LED light on the dash somewhere that blinks when the car is locked?
Roger
New User -
There is a little red light near the steering column on the left that blinks. We have the original window tag from when the car was originally purchased in 1992. I see many power options, but nothing that mentions security.
Is there a place where the wire has a tendency to short? We have been having issues with the ashtray falling out and I see there are a few wires behind it.
Roger -
Wires behind the ash tray are for the cigar lighter and a light for the ash tray.
Look carefully under the dash on the driver's side for a small black button mounted either to the black close out panel or taped to some wiring harness under the panel. This is a reset button for the aftermarket installed alarm.
Once you locate this button you will need to connect the car's battery and while all the noise is going on press and hold this button down and at the same time turn the ignition key on.
That should reset this system.
Roger
Roger -
What is happening here please? Have you located the reset button for the alarm?
Roger
New User -
Sorry, we are on eastern time and I didn't want to set the alarm off at night. We located the switch. We tried it this morning and it seems to have solved the problem. We were able to turn the car on and off several times without setting off the alarm. Thank you very much for your assistance.
New User -
Everything seems to work, power windows, trunk but the parking lights are not turning off. After five minutes they are still remaining on.
Roger -
Your alarm may have a control box problem. Most installers put the control box under the left side of the dash. See if you can locate it and unplug the connectors.
While the alarm control box is disconnected did the park lights go off? When you reconnect the control box what happens?
Seriously, you might consider replacing this alarm system for one you can rely on if it doesn't straighten out.
What would you like to do?
Roger
New User -
We found the box and disconnected it but it didn't work for the lights. We can drive the car now, whichc was the original problem, and will take it to our mechanic.
We will probably end up removing the alarm system becuause I don't think this car is as valuable as it onec was.
Thank you. You were extremely helpful.
Megan
Roger -
Are we finised here? If so please click on OK to finish up.
i have recently done a tune up on my 92 Cadillac Deville, new plugs, wires, dist cap and rotor and fuel filter. Now shortly after i did this i had disconnected a big metal box behind the glove box thinking that might be the issue with my climate control.when i did that the digital display for the climate control and the fuel display went out. I then drove the car and it ran HORRIBLY. i plugged the box back in, reset the computer by disconnecting the negative wire from the battery, let it sit for about 5 minutes and then started it and drove it and it was better but still not good at all. before all of this the car ran fine....any ideas....HELP PLEASE
Roger -
Hello, The box you disconnected is the Body Control Module (BCM). This module communicates with the Engine Control Module (ECM) via serial data circuits.
Was the ignition key on at the time the BCM was being disconnected or reconnected?
When you disconnected the battery the ECM loses learned drivability data. Up to 50 miles of driving normally may be needed for the ECM to relearn driving habits and settle down.
There is an engine idle learn process to be done after an event where the battery has been disconnected as well.
Do you know how to enter on-board diagnostics to check for codes?
Roger
New User -
no i don't know how to run diagnostics on it. so are you saying that typically after driving it so many miles it should resolve itself? and yeah (cowers) the ignition was in the on position when i disconnected it. i have since disconnected the battery to rester it......HELP
Roger -
Turn the ignition key on but do not start the engine.
On the Climate Control Panel press and hold both the OFF and Warmer buttons until the display changes then release the buttons. You have entered on-board diagnostics.
Engine codes begin with the letter E and Body codes begin with the letter F . An E52 is indication that power to the ECM memory has been interrupted and we can ignore it.
.70 displayed is not a code but rather indication of an electronic bridge we won't need here at this time.
That said...yes, driving the car gives the ECM time to relearn driving habits.
Does the engine have problems idling (RPM surging)?
Roger
New User -
other than the E52 that you knew would show up was also E30. What does that mean?
Roger -
E30 = Idle Speed Control out of range.
E30 is a history code, EE30 is a current code.
The E30 code can be set by different conditions. Such as cruise control cable improperly adjusted, throttle valve coked with fuel deposits, putting car in gear with throttle slightly elevated...to name a few.
Let's do some things to see if it gets your engine back to acceptable running.
Start with the engine warmed up to operating temp. Turn the engine off and leave the key off. Then disconnect the battery for 30 seconds and reconnect it.
Turn the key on and turn the climate control off. Set the climate control temperature to 60 degrees. Leave it turned off.
Next we'll perform the idle learn procedure. To do this:
1. Turn the key on and enter diagnostics as before. As SOON as you see the display change while entering diagnostics turn the key off. Do this three times.
2. Start the engine and let it idle. Do not touch the accelerator pedal.
3. Hold the foot brake and select DRIVE. Let the engine idle in gear with the climate control off for a full clock minute. Remember not to touch the accelerator.
4. Press AUTO on the climate control panel and when you hear the a/c compressor engage let the engine idle in gear with the climate control on for a full clock minute.
5. Place the car in Park and turn the engine off. This completes the idle learn procedure.
Next, enter diagnostics once again and when the computer gets to the .70 readout press and hold both OFF and fan speed LOW until you see E00. Next press and hold OFF and fan speed HI until you see F00. All codes for the ECM and BCM are now cleared from memory. Turn the key off or press only the AUTO button to exit diagnostics.
Now you can start your car, set the climate control where you want it and begin driving the car normally so the adaptive learning process the computer goes through can take place. The engine should settle down within 50 miles use.
Questions?
Roger
New User -
i have ran all diagnostics you gave to me and the idle seems to be somewhat better, even though i have not yet run 50 miles, but my next question is will the "sputtering" go away or is that something else? I also want to thank you for all the useful info and patience you have shown during this process
Roger -
What I have offered you probably will not address the sputtering you speak of.
You might get a check engine or service engine soon light to indicate where to look next. Are you certain you did not crack a spark plug during installation? That firewall bank of plugs can get frustrating on a good day.
The idle should smooth out provided there are no vacuum leaks or collapsed hoses.
How long since you ran a good injector cleaner or upper cylinder lubricant through? I like to wait until the fuel is 1/4 tank remaining. Then I'll go to Wal-Mart and get a can of Berryman B-12 Fuel System Cleaner and add it to the remaining fuel to boost the cleaner/fuel ratio to near four times normal.
During this last 1/4 tank of fuel I get aggressive entering the freeway whenever safe to do so and make some full throttle accelerations to make the injectors spray their maximum to disolve any coking deposits that may impair operation.
You are welcome for the help, I believe you are gaining knowledge about how great your car is by design.
Roger
New User -
do you think the sputtering could be a cracked plug? ya know, before i did anything to this car it ran just fine....leave it to me to mess things up. i did bust 1 plug getting it out, maybe i cracked it putting the new one in. i have fuel injector cleaner running through it now and i have no check engine or service engine soon lights come on. and i know i have the proper gap on the plugs as well. I'm at a loss
Roger -
I'm not able to see/hear/drive the car so you have the advantage there.
Time to recheck your work if you feel you may have built the problem into the car. A cracked plug or crossed spark plug wires are possible causes as is a defective new part out of the box.
Roger
New User -
how do i check to see if one of the spark plug wires is bad....i have no extras to swap out as i though out the old wires
Roger -
Ignition wire resistance should not be greater than 25 kilohms.
To check resistance, disconnect the spark plug wire from the plug and ignition coil or distributor, then use an ohmmeter to measure the resistance.
If resistance falls outside of specifications, the cable(s) should be replaced with new ones.
1991 Cadillac DeVille Electrical / Lighting Systems Won't Start Always
New User Asked -
In the past 2 years the car has intermittently refused to start. About once every 2-3 months it would not start. Within a few hours the car would start fine and continue to operate for another 2-3 months with no problems. It has finally decided to not start at all. We have had it in a GM dealership for the past two weeks. They claim to have tried everything. Starter, relays. fuses. chip embedded in the key. the chip reader, wiring, battery etc. Any other suggestions?
Falkeneiz -
I ran into the same type of problem on a customers Deville. Turned out to be a broken wire in the anti theft circuit going to the ECM. The wire had a factory splice and the splice separate/vibrate/move until the car just stopped runningIt took 2 full days to unwrap and check each wire and do pin checks on the starting circuit but I found it ,repaired it and gained the trust of my customer(he had a similiar problem with the GM garage in that they could not find the problem). I hope that my experience can help you. Good luck
Walt Boyer
ASE Master Tech
Falkeneiz -
you asked a question in this forum about your cadillac... were you satisfied with the answer
1991 Cadillac DeVille Fuel System Smelling When idling When warm
New User Asked -
I have been trying to get my cadillac to pass emissions for inspection it has failed now for the fourth time. The reading that fail is NOX (ppm) its current reading at
25 mph High Speed RPM:1645 is 2902,
15 mph Low Speed RPM: 1657 reading is 3080
This car has already had a catylltic converter installed and the EEG valve checked for proper working order.
When idling the smell is like rotten eggs.
I have been fueling with 93 octane Exxon gas and used the RPX gas treatment decarbonizer and still i failed the test.
What do i need to fix to correct this problem
Douglas -
Important note on the converter, when replacing make sure the replacement matches the size of the original. Don't trust oem approved lables, etc.
The egr valve was replaced. Was it checked to see if it's actually working. And this is important, was the passageways for the egr valve cleaned.
I have never used RPX gas treatment. GM top engine cleaner is a great decarbonizer. So is water injection, but there is a risk of engine damage.
Have the ignition timing verified.
Don't overlook anything that can cause a lean fuel mixture. (lean fuel mixture burns hotter).
akdoggie -
You most likely have a bad oxygen sensor. Has anybody run a computer scan of this vehicle? You can run the codes yourself. I'll bet money, that your O2 sensor is bad. You might also have a bad MAP or Baro sensor. The only way to be sure, is run the codes. Your readings could be a bad hose somewhere, but run the codes to be sure.
Douglas -
Did you originally fail other parts of the test?
How is gas mileage?
How do the plugs look after they have been ran for a while? Do they show any signs of heat damage or excess carbon deposits?
Did you have the rotten egg smell before Cat replacement?
New User -
No every other item passed the emission tests.
Gas mileage sucks.
I have not looked at the plugs yet but where you add the oil into the motor there was a lot of carbon build up around the edges so i added the RXP. and still failed the tests.
Douglas -
Check the plugs and see if there is evidence of a rich condition (make a note if the problem is evident on all cylinders). If there is check the fuel pressure regulator.
Does the car have good power if you get on it, this would seperate a lean from a rich mixture (assuming the ignition system is producing good spark)?
macconeck -
I had the same problem I failed twice Then I remembered reading that Methanol had really low NoX levels. And from another article that Methanol could be added to your car without any ill effects by up to 3%. So I added Trick racing methanol to a full tank of premium unleaded for a 3% mixture. I tested again and passed. HC and NO levels came up slightly but my NoX levels droped by over 10,000ppm and I PASSED
hope this helps
first i cant locate the programmer and when i put the heat on 90 I get cold air the heater core has been replace and also the radiator i get hot air only sometimes and then cold air most the times
Roger -
"Hello, The programmer is a vertically mounted black box under he right side of the dash. Removing both the glove box and the close-out panel below the right side of the dash will provide the best access.
The programmer has one electrical connector and a muli-colored vacuum hose harness connected to it. There is a mechanical linkage at the top of the box for the air temperature door.
From your description I believe the dc voltage motor inside the programmer case has some gears stripped and can't move the air temperature door linkage. The motor can be serviced seperately from the assembly if you find a supplier. (Usually a Cadillac Dealer item) The programmer has to come out to replace the dc motor, or you may wish to replace the assembly to get warranty on the whole assembly.
Please advise what other help you need,
Roger "
New User -
I'm going to pay for this information, but I would like to know is it inside the car or under the hood. and if i went to a auto parts store could i buy one and replace it myself.
Roger -
"The programmer is inside the car and is mounted vertically on the HVAC case. To see it I recommended removing the glove box and the close-out panel below the right side of the dash. (See my previous message)
Yes, you can replace this part yourself using a few metric hand tools. Depending on which national auto parts chain store is in your area you have a good chance of finding availability of the programmer assembly and will include a new dc volt motor. The dc voltage motor by itself has been a dealer only item for as long as I can remember.
Should you decide to do this repair I'd like to guide you. The only technical part involves calibrating the air temperature door linkage to ensure the control of the delivered air temperature.
I'll stick with you as long as you like.
Roger"
New User -
thank you just one more question. when i go to the auto part store what will i ask for, i did before and i kept telling him programmer, and he kept talking about a module or something that i didn't understand. and should i get the whole assembly. do you have it there and could i pay for it and it be sendt to me. gregory
Roger -
Ask for the Climate Control Programmer Assembly. If they call it a Module it won't matter if you have seen the one in your car you can visually identify it.
From a parts store you'll probably be offered the programmer assembly. At a Cadillac Dealer you may be able to still purchase only the DC volt motor for the programmer.
I do not have parts, I'm just a technician that offers my help. You may wish to click on the All Parts link "Find your part" and many suppliers can respond their price and availability of the item you want.
Your call,
Roger
New User -
i hope that you recieved the payment but are you still with me until i finish installing it i'm new at this and i dont know exactly what i'm doing but cant afford a mechanic.
All-Parts Admin -
Hello,
I've re-opened this question at the customer's request.
Mark,
Site Admin.
Roger -
Ok, When you have the part and wish to proceed, please advise.
Wait until we have got your car fixed before you click on "OK TO PAY THE MECHANIC" or we'll lose each other.
Thanks,
Roger
Roger -
I'm checking in to see how it's going here. Did you fix it?
Roger
Roger -
Please, update the status of your question. I want to help.
1991 DeVille. Starts fine when cold. After driving and shut-off will not start unless pedal held to the floor. Starts very hard, runs very rough, and belches smoke. Eventually stops smoking and runs fine. Diagnostic codes: E31, E98, 7.0.
Roger -
Hi, The code E31 is a shorted MAP Sensor. Consider replacing it.
The code E98 says the idle is too high when shifting from Park to a gear. This is probably normal due to the poor running condition that set code E31.
Roger
Roger -
How are you doing here? Please update.
Roger
New User -
I am almost certain that at least one injector leaks after shut of. That one (or more cylinders) with excess fuel cause very rough idle and smoking or no starting. If I do not start the car for 2 or 3 hours it starts and runs fine. Is there a way to test for a single defective injector? Should all be replaced anyway. This is a very well taken care of low milage car otherwise and I am assuming that these are the original injectors.
Roger -
Hello, Replacing all of the injectors is pure overkill in my opinion.
When the condition is present try using insulated tools to disconnect the spark plug wires one at a time to see if the idle gets even worse or doesn't change.
If the idle is worse reconnect the wire and move to the next one. When you find the one that effects no change investigate that one.
Power flushing the injectors by a professional may solve this as it is. The injector may be dirty and sticking.
How do you want to proceed?
Roger
New User -
Roger,
The car barely starts or runs. Maybe just try to start it in the same manner by disconnecting spark plug by spark plug?
Roger -
No, I thought the engine would run but had a rough idle.
Have you replaced the MAP sensor? What happened to the Code E31?
Roger
New User -
Roger,
We have replaced the MAP sensor. That did not fix problem. I do not know if the code has come up since.
The car will barely start (after being shut off for about 10 minutes)and belches black smoke, is very hard to start, and will barely run.
Roger -
Will holding the accelerator on the floor allow the engine to start and clear itself of the flooding? I'm worried that too many attempts will cause the catalytic converter to become fuel saturated and ruin it.
Remove the vacuum line from the Map sensor and see if you can blow air back through the throttle body. If it is difficult the vacuum port will need to be cleaned out in the throttle body.
Roger
Roger -
How are you doing with this one? Please advise.
Thanks,
Roger
Roger -
Do you need something else on this question? If not please click on OK to finish up.
The throttle on my 1990 DeVille seems to "stick" while driving at lower speeds. It will run so fast that it will increase speed from 25 mph to 45 mph until I tap the gas pedal. After coming to a stop and then starting again, it will repeat the process. I have replaced the TPS and it still does it. I checked the throttle cable and it seems fine.
Douglas -
Check the throttle body/blade. Make sure there is not play in the blade which can cause it to bind in the throttle body. If it does a replacement throttle body is needed. Also, clean both sides of the throttle blade and the bore, as build-up can cause it to stick.
1991 sedan deville, f47 fault...low pressure side ac. Low refrigerant. System was upgraded to R232 years ago. I read this can cause problem because system program doesn't recognize new type refrigerant. Designed for r12. Is there a "fix" for this? Keep getting f47 faults.
Gary
Roger -
Hello, Worn out piston rings in the a/c compressor will break off and get caught in the orifice tube screen. F47 will result.
Have you replaced the compressor in the past? Have you recovered the freon and inspected the orifice tube screen for debris lately?
Roger
New User -
Yes, the a/c compressor was replaced in 5/10 and due to a malfunction, again on 8/23/10. The a/c compressor puts out air cooled at 50 degrees to 28 degrees. It works great; however, the F47 fault shows up every few miles/minutes, now. It's a real pain to keep re-setting the computer. I have a Hayne's manual which lists the codes and how to re-set the computer, etc. So, I'm ok there. In fact I just installed a new climate control computer and it appeared to work fine for about two days...then the F47 faults, again!
After searching all over the net for causes of this I ran into one that said the 1991 Cadillac Sedan DeVille was designed to use the R-12 freon for its A/C refrigerant and that the F-47, low refrigerant fault can pop up whenever if you're now using the R-232 or whatever we were forced to start using. The system doesn't recognize the new refrigerant and therefore pops up the F-47 fault, no matter how full the A/C system is of refrigerant! Catch 22?
Do you have a "fix" for this?
New User -
In addition to my last note.... as soon as the F47 fault shows up the system immediately switches to the "Economy" mode which pulls in outside air. So, an otherwise comfortable ride becomes a "humid" ride...not so pleasant.
Roger -
What did the filter screen on the orifice tube look like when removed? Any chance it was installed backwards?
I worked for a Cadillac dealership when this car was new. One thing we did was to test the sensors for accuracy. We did this using a TECH I Scan Tool which we connected to the car after it had set overnight. We would turn on the key but not start the car. We looked at sensor feedback parameters for all refrigerant sensors and compare4d them. They should all be close to the same reading. We replaced the one that was the most inacurate.
This worked because the system was at rest and pressure was equalized throughout the closed refrigerant containing system. Even the outside air temperature sensor was looked at.
If the orifice tube screen was found clear of debris and all sensors were okay we would evac and recharge the system and add an extra 1/2 lb of freon.
I have zero experience with R-232 refrigerant. Our conversions used R-134a freon.
I sure hope whom ever did the compressor installation made sure not to put too much PAG Oil in the system. Especially since the compressor was replaced more than once.
Roger
New User -
Thanks for your quick reply.
I erred on the type of refrigerant. It's R134-A. I don't know where I came up with R232.
Still, the guys who've been working on my A/C and other systems are pretty sharp and reputable. I've called them a few times asking one of them who's familiar with the situation and he said they did everything properly, ie vacuumed the refrigerant out of the system, etc. and then replaced it with new.
My question is still..."Is there a fix for the R12 system having been converted to the R134A refrigerant so the climate control computer will stop reading F47 faults?
I'm concerned about the system being changed from one type of refrigerant to another in a vehicle that can't get along with the new type of refrigerant.
Is this/could this be the cause of the constant F47 faults?
Gary
Roger -
All that I stated in my previous reply is what we did at a Cadillac dealership to deal with false F47 code events.
It is vital to use a good quality R-134a freon product. Contaminated freon is for sale cheap and if recovered from a vehicle can contaminate shop equipment used to service vehicles.
See what your technicians say.
Roger
New User -
Roger,
Understood and appreciated. Thanks.
Any idea or thoughts about the R12 to R134A and subsequent issues of F47 faults?
I'm digging anywhere/everywhere I can to find the cause of those faults. I bought the car new in 1991; my 11 year old, at the time, daughter picked it out and it took me almost seven years to pay for it. I'm real "attached" to it and want very much to restore it. I'm very short on cash and digging anyway.
Any thoughts on how to get rid of the faults?
Sincerely, Gary
Roger -
What can I say to convince you that if the procedure I outlined is followed the false codes should stop?
There may be debris caught in the orifice tube screen. You may have a sensor problem. You may need an extra 1/2 pound of R-134a. There could be too much oil in the system.
These are not suggestions I have thought up. They are the proceedure we used at Cadillac to address a reoccuring Code F47.
Roger
New User -
Roger,
I didn't mean to sound abrasive or like I didn't believe you. I'm simply trying to get through this. I've had this same issue with F47 for several years.
No mechanic I've been to here can locate the problem and fix it. I've spent an enormous amount of money for all kinds of parts and labor based on local techs "recommendations". So, I wanted to check out the guru's, like yourself, online and see what they/you think.
I understand what you were saying, but I was also trying to get an answer to my question. Which is basically "Do you think the R12 to R134 refrigerant change could be causing the fault due to the fact that the system apparently can't sense that there's plenty of refrigerant in the system, eventhough it isn't R12?"
Could this be the problem?
I call my mechanic and tell him what you've sent me but he, of course, gets a little irritated and says the orifice was replaced with a new one, there were no particles in the screen, they vacuumed out all the refrigerant when they installed the last compressor, etc. So it sounds like they've already taken care of the issues you've brought up. I know little to nothing about this kind of stuff, but am learning as I go...and I like to understand how things work.
Anyway, if you could answer my question about the R12 to R134 thing I would appreciate that. Meanwhile I'll run everything you told me by the tech, again.
Please keep in mind, I only want to get this problem that has plagued me for several years...to get solved, so I can go on with my life. And, I don't want to be forced to give up and just sell the car.
So, I appreciate the time you've spent with this problem, very much. You've given me a good deal of insight into the A/C system. Thanks.
Gary
Roger -
Your question: Do you think the R12 to R134 refrigerant change could be causing the fault due to the fact that the system apparently can't sense that there's plenty of refrigerant in the system, eventhough it isn't R12?
No, R-134a works well in a system converted from R-12. If it would be plagued with code problems GM would have sent dealers a how to fix and allowed "good will" funds to handle chronic complaints from original owners.
The sensors detect temperature and pressure of both the low side and the high side of an operating system. Differences from design specs trigger a diagnostic code.
One such instance is when compressor piston rings fail (break off) and become caught in the orifice tube screen. The system is likely full of freon but the compressor can't pull the low side pressure low enough. The low side sensor will detect a temperature reading abnormally high and the result is a code F47 due to a temperature fault, not whether or not the system is full or low on freon. The compressor stays online and doesn't cycle on/off.
If a good compressor pulls the low side pressure down too low and too fast the low pressure cycling switch will short cycle the compressor on/off. When this happens the low pressure cycling switch (not the low side temperature sensor) triggers code F47 for low quantity freon detected because the evaporator core stays too warm too long.
I very seriously doubt your technician has ever done a sensor feedback comparison to see how close the sensors relay the same reading after the car sets overnight.
Most technicians do not respect someone challenging their expertiese. None will readilly accept someone else's diagnosis and just dive in changing parts. That would be plain foolish.
Should you discover that your technician is not GM Factory Trained And Certified it is reasonable to expect he may not know enough or the tricks that are deepest in the resources of broader experiences and the lessons that come to light.
Hope this helps. I respectfully have given you the benefit of my training and experience on the 1991 model DeVille.
Roger
New User -
Roger,
Thank you.
You're quite knowledgeable about many things. Thanks again for all your help.
I'll try to get the message across to the technician and see if he'll willingly give it ashot.
If not I'll go looking for someone around here who is GM qualified....good point. And, I'll ask if the techs at this same location have GM qualifications.
Thanks,again!
Gary
Roger -
To close this question please click on OK to finish up.
1990 Cadillac DeVille Electrical / Lighting Systems Happens always Always
New User Asked -
I have recenlty replaced the battery and alternator on our car and the electrical system just gives us a "c" none of the other computer components come on and the fuel gage, etc do not show-also the fan constantly runs for the air and we are unable to adjust anything to make a change. Also, the check engine soon light recently came on. We have checked fuses and it doesn't appear any are in need of change. My husband is in Iraq and I am not sure where I need to start in taking the car to a shop. This car only has 80K miles.
macconeck -
before I can assist you I need more information about the car I am not clear on the malfunctions
I do not understand the "c" where is this C
and what are the computer componets that are not comming on and which fan is constantly running and did all this occur at the same time what was happening for you to have replaced the batt and alternator?
all this will be helpful in diagnosing your problem
New User -
I replaced the battery as the car would not start and felt it needed to be changed anyway-then once it did start the alternator seemed to pull from the battery and wouldn't keep charge so we replaced the alternator at that time. The car runs good; however, there is nothing that shows up on the instrument panel at all-no fuel gage-speedometer readings and as far as the C it is located where the air controls are. The fan continually running is the fan that runs the air controls and temperature. We are unable to make any adjustments on the climate control and just blows air-I hope my answers are what you need to be able to check into this further-Thanks!
macconeck -
The first thing we would check is the body control module. Then check for loose or poor ground connections. Lastly, check the main power distribution box. Check for 12-volt power to the control modules and make sure they are properly grounded. If this checks out okay, the dash cluster is likely your problem.
There is one way of testing it for certainty and that is to have it tested for error codes these codes will narrow it down to a finer point of troubleshooting
The air conditioning doesn't work, and the system goes to ECON when the auto button is pushed if the temperature is set in the 60-70 degree range for cooling. The system will change its setting to 75 degrees displaying wither auto or econ mode when the ignition is switched off and then switched back on.
The fuel data center is also malfunctioning, reading 0 mpg. It will display the other info such as avg, range, fuel used at times, but will not do so consistently.
Roger -
Hello, With the key on press and hold the OFF and WARMER buttons down on the climate control panel until the display changes, then release the buttons.
Your engine and body computers will display any codes that are present.
Engine codes are "E" Codes. Body codes are "B" Codes.
Please advise what you see. To exit diagnostics you can press the AUTO button or turn the key OFF.
My 1990 Cadi has 62,000 original miles, its in mint contdion, a couple weeks ago it started acting up. What it is {was) doing is...out of no where its starts running bad, it will not excellerate when pushing on gas petal. I thought maybe was gas filter but not sure. I also thought maybe water in gas, so I added some stp gas treatment. It has not acted up until today again. It would only drive 30 mph and while going up hill it kind of missfired some. I pulled over off the road and the car died. No service lights have came on as of yet. I just out a new battery in it, and this car has been babied biggtime, After resatrting the car it runs perfect again. Im about to make a trip in itt as my mom is on her death bed with lung cancer. Can someone help me? I a 100%disabled Vetran so I do not have money to take it to the dealership unless I cant fix it, then I will have no choice.
New User -
While comming home in it I drove 17 miles, as I said when I push the excellerator down the car kind of chuged down, it missfired while going up hill, never got it over 32 mph on the way back. No Check Engine or serice soon lights on. Also when I press the excellerator it would kind of slam the transmission, you could feel it slam it or pull hard
Roger -
Hello, My first thought is the engine can't breathe due to a restricted exhaust.
An easy way to see if this is the case is to remove the oxygen sensor and see if there is immediate improvement. Never mind the noise or if the check engine light comes on. We will address that later.
Would you like to try this? If the exhaust is restricted it may be the catalytic converter stopping up.
car starts runs fine after about ten minuets of run time when you shut car off wont start back up until it cools off for about 5 minuets any suggestions
glenn
Roger -
Hello, When the no start condition is present spray the crankshaft sensor with brake cleaner to cool it. If the engine restarts immediately replace the crankshaft sensor.
Roger
New User -
is the crank shaft sensor located in the ditributor
glenn
New User -
if that is not the problem what else could it be
glenn
Roger -
The crankshaft sensor works in conjunction with the 58 tooth reluctor wheel on the crankshaft. There is a pick up coil in the distributor....
The crankshaft sensor is the most probable cause.
Roger
Roger -
Hello again, did you intend to release the question so that others can answer instead of me? Or, was that accidental?
Thanks,
Roger
New User -
sorry roger no i did not but i have another? where is the crank shaft sensor located glenn
Roger -
The crankshaft sensor points (perpendicular) at the crankshaft pulley and is just behind the the pulley assembly on the firewall side of the engine.
The is a two wire connector harness going down the front of the engine to the sensor itself. There are no other sensors in the immediate area of the crankshaft pulley. You may need a good flashlight to see the sensor as about everything in the area is black from grime.
Once you locate the sensor leave it connected. When the engine won't start under the condition you described just spray the sensor area and connector with the brake cleaner and see if the engine will start back up.
If it does, replace the crankshaft position sensor.
FOMER GM TECT, 1990 CAD 4DOOR DEVILL 4.2 ENG 61,000 MILES .BAD GAS MILAGE ( 8.7 MPG ) COMPLETE TUNE-UP CAP ROTOR WIRES IGN MOD ONE INJECTOR & CAT CONVERTOR "NO CHANGE". ON CODES. RUFF IDLE IN GEAR. ENG 'ROD KNOCK' LIKE NOISE ON ACCL. CKED RODS&MAINS ALL GOOD ,NEVER OVER HEATED. hELP!!! HEARD OF HEAD GASKET TROUBLES WITH THIS ENG BUT NOT LOESING ANTI FREZ OR RUNNIG HOT? IS THERE A SENSOR OR VAC LINE ??? IF A HEAD GASKET ,ANY SEALER THAT I CAN USE?
macconeck -
Did you do a compression test, that will at least narrow down a side or cylinder how about a collapsed lifter or piston with a broken bottom side as it tilts on the up stroke it will slap the head, this will also create a rod sounding knock.
If you have a head gasket problem it can be
blowing on the intake or exhaust as opposed to the colling vane border of the gasket.
A leak down vacume test will determine the results of this
I hope this helps
New User -
LOW COMP BETWEEN # 2&4, CAN IT BE A ROCKER OR STANSION
IN VALVE TRAIN?
macconeck -
That is possibleMaybe a bad valve or not fully seating or bent valve even a blown gasket between the two cylinders
You may need a partial tear down to find out for sure
My cadillac will not start seems no power getting to the starter wait 15 minutes and it will start what could be the problem Harold
Roger -
Hi Harold,
What body style is your Cadillac please?
Roger
New User -
I have not received a satisfactory answer to my problem. I had put in a new ignition system so I know that was not the problem, The asnwersaying that it is not the ignition is not a satisfactory answer Body style of 1990 cadillac is a 4 door sedan I await your answer Thank you Harold
Roger -
I'm sorry, I have no knowledge of the answer you are referring to "it is not the ignition".
The 1990 Model is included in a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) that calls for rewiring the Starter Enable Relay socket so the relay energizes quicker.
Please advise your email address and I'll send the TSB to your for review. If the wiring mod has already been done I'd change this relay and retest the car.
Roger
New User -
Roger It is a 4 door sedan deville, Harold
New User -
I put in a new ignition system so I know that is not the problem what I want to know what is the problem and why it wont start until after I try to start the car I have to wait for about 15 minutes before it will start
New User -
If you jump start the car from the battery terminal it will start, The battery in the car is only 3 days old, fully charged.
Roger -
What I am referring to is checking/correcting a wiring problem with the starter enable relay located behind the glove box.
With the key on and you're jumping power from the battery to the starter the engine starts... is manually doing what the starter enable relay should do for you when the key is turned to the START position.
Would you like the TSB sent to you?
Roger
New User -
If the answer of my querry is the wiring from the ignition to the battery terminal show the wiring system and what is between the 2 points something must have to cool before a restart can occur, It has happened just 5 minutes ago where I had to wait for 10 minutes and then the starter engaged. With a new battery and a new ignition the answer would have to be between those 2 points because when a booster battery is applied to the battery terminals it starts immediately. regards Harold
New User -
Yes anything that will solve the problem something is not connecting between the 2 points ignition to battery, see email directed to Mark. Harold
Roger -
Time out Harold. There needs to be a test for voltage on the Purple wire that connects to the starter solenoid when the key is held in the START position (at the time the no start condition is present.) If battery voltage is there but the starter won't work we have either an amps flow resistance or a defective starter solenoid.
One thing I'd want to check is to:
1. Disconnect the battery then take the bolt out of the positive battery cable terminal end that connects to the battery.
2. Pry out the lead spacer on one of the positive cable ends and look beneath it for hidden corrosion.
3. Clean and reassemble the connections to the battery.
If during the no start condition there is no voltage on the Purple wire to the starter solenoid (key in start position) the TSB information would be my next move.
I'll need your email address please. All Parts has it but the providers are scattered across the continent. Providers do not have access to registration information when you post a question nor do we office at the All Parts physical address.
Thanks,
Roger
Roger -
Time out Harold. There needs to be a test for voltage on the Purple wire that connects to the starter solenoid when the key is held in the START position (at the time the no start condition is present.) If battery voltage is there but the starter won't work we have either an amps flow resistance or a defective starter solenoid.
One thing I'd want to check is to:
1. Disconnect the battery then take the bolt out of the positive battery cable terminal end that connects to the battery.
2. Pry out the lead spacer on one of the positive cable ends and look beneath it for hidden corrosion.
3. Clean and reassemble the connections to the battery.
If during the no start condition there is no voltage on the Purple wire to the starter solenoid (key in start position) the TSB information would be my next move.
I'll need your email address please. All Parts has it but the providers are scattered across the continent. Providers do not have access to registration information when you post a question nor do we office at the All Parts physical address.
Thanks,
Roger
New User -
Roger I will take this information to my mechanic and have him check this out. It is the first time I have heard anything about a starter relay system and I am willing to go for it, regards Harold
I'm not 100% sure this is where this complaint goes, but anyway.
When I first picked up my 1990 Deville, it had very little (if any) road noise. But here lately I've been hearing an excessive BRRRRRRRRRR noise. The only catch is that the noise completely stops, none at all, whenever I turn my steering wheel (even a few inches) to the right. Any ideas?
Bruce Kit -
Sounds like the powersteering pump is ether low on fluid or worn.Check fluid level.Anso with assistant behind the wheel, try to pinpoint the noise source.This can be verified by placing hand on pump with engine running. CAUTION be careful not to touch moving parts!
New User -
Haha, no joke about not touching moving parts. My only wonder is, if it's the power steering pump or fluid, why is it when I turn my wheel to the right (like I said originally, even 2-3 inches) the noise disappears completely?
Bruce Kit -
Pump isunderabit ofload then. See if the fluid is foaming in the reservoir. Rebuilt ones are available.I noticed there are instructions on the sleeves of some fan belts. The first on the list of instructions: Caution, ensure engine is NOT running when changing belt! LOL
i have a 1990 cadillac Deville 4.5L V8. , everything electrically works fine on the car with the exception of my digital display, both the fuel data center & electric climate control will not work at all! both screens are completly blank. I checked the #7fuse wich is for a/c and the fuel data & Climate control there is a fuse but no wire connection to it? could this be the problem? i heard it could be the stereo connected wrong, wich i checked and it was fine! it does have a aftermarket stereo headface wich came with vehicle purchase. i dont know what can be the prolem i need help??? i have to keep a baby warm here! my newborn so pls help?
Roger -
Hello, Have you tested for power ariving at the control panels? The power for these display panels comes from the Body Control Module (BCM). If you unplug one of the control panels will the other one light up?
Roger
New User -
I took it apart and I think the guy helping me tested sumthing.
so what do you suggest I do ? were is the BCM?
what things should I try? I even tried reseting the battery
wich didn't help....
Roger -
Always have the key OFF when connecting or disconnecting these components:
When you disconnected one of the display panels then turned the key to ON did the other panel light up? Did you try each one while looking at the other?
Is the instrument panel cluster digital too?
The silver color BCM mounts horizontally on top of the HVAC case behind the glove box. Also behind the glove box is a black box mounted vertically that has a multi-colored vacuum hose connector and an electrical connector. The black box is the climate control programmer.
With the Fuel Data Panel and the Climate Control Panel both connected, disconnect only the electrical connector from the black programmer box and turn the key ON. Do the panels light up?
Please let me know what happens,
Roger
New User -
I have found the bcm silver vertical box to the left
once the clove box was removed , yet I have not found
the black box ! There are several it seems !, wich one
is it ? I it the far right one with relays connected?
I'm insure? When I press the defrost buttons on
the climate control panel I hear clicking fom one relay
wich I tried switching out with another identical relay
while I have the clove box down... But I still can't
find or know if I found the black box to dissconect the electic
dissconnect your describing!?
down .... Can u please help !!??
Roger -
Please tell me your email address and I will send you a drawing of what is behind the glove box. This is a Deville right?
Roger
New User -
My email is [redacted]
I'm pretty sure I found it already ....
Also now the screens arestill blank both on the climate control
amd the fuel data center ... But now the a/c compressor is ingaging
wen i press the "auto" button on the clmate control and the fan
kicks on as well ! It starts t blow cold air when I'm driving and
doesn't blow any cold air when I'm at a stop!
All the able the screen is still blank ... It will cut off though when I
press the "off" button ? What could all ths mean could it be the
blower motor ?
Roger -
If in addition to blank display on the Fuel Data Center and the Climate Control Panel there is no blower motor operation I wouldn't fault the blower motor without testing the power wire connection at the blower motor for power when you touch the AUTO button on the CCC. If power is there but the motor won't run then we could believe a replacement blower motor might be needed.
I sent the drawing showing component locations. Check your inbox and spam/junk folders for Subject 1990 Deville Electrical Components Location.
These data panels if found to be bad are going to be hard to locate. Salvage yards will be where to look.
How are you doing checking for power to the control panels and plugging them in one at a time to see if they will light up?
Roger
Roger -
When you locate the programmer you will see a metal trash guard on top of it that prevents foreign objects from interfering with the temperature door motor and linkage movement.
With all components connected turn the key to ON. Press and hold the Red temperature button. Watch the temperature door control motor and linkage move until the arm of the MOTOR points to the rear of the car. Will the motor do this?? That is the full heat position of the temperature door.
I'm looking to see if panel display is the sole problem here.
I need a diagram for window track guide installation and how it hooks to belt and routing for belt..
Bruce Kit -
there are several phillips screws (3 under the window switch pannel, one by the door handle and then one behind each lamp lense in the pannel. )after you remove these the pannel should be pulled off being careful to pll right on the clips. they will make a snap sound, but they shouldnt break. if they do , the local parts store will have replacements (tell them you need "christmas tree fasteners" they should know what you are asking for)
there is a pressure clip that goes in the hole in the upper left corner of the window. this clip normally breaks causing the window to come off track. get a new clip from cadillac and install it in the hole in the window. lower the track down about half way with the switch and slide the wheel on the bottom of the window into the track and then snap the pressure clip and window into the rear side of the window channel. test the window before installing the door pannel to insure proper travel. if all is good, then reinstall the door pannel and you should be back in business. hope this helps
Bruce Kit -
Require email address to send pictures as this forum will not support diagrams etc
New User -
the belt has come out of the guide and is loose inside the door.. need to know the rout of belt. and then the proper process to install new clip...
Bruce Kit -
I require your email address so I can send photos...cannot do photos on this forum.
Usually I remove the opposite door panel to see routing and assembly ...
New User -
sorry for the delay.. was fishing the belt back n by brail.. e-mail is [redacted] thanks for the help..
New User -
I think Ive figured it out but would appreciate the pics or diagram if U could. it was the rerouting of the belt that was giving me the trouble but I was able to see just enough n side the door panel to find the rout and fish it back through..
1989 Cadillac DeVille Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When driving No pattern
New User Asked -
The led lights that usually show the temperature and the gasoline and mileage are coming and
going also the idiot light shows. Service Engine soon but it comes and goes with the other
lights. Sometimes they are fine. times they disapear and a c is shown. The serivce air
conditioner light comes on sometimes too and the heat and or air comes on and off when
everything is blank. Is this a fuse issue? The headlights etc work fine.
Thanks for your help
Mistified in Arizona
Gro -
If you have checked all the fuses and they are fine? Its a computer issue, more than likely the Computer control unit is going out, or has possibly just came loose, This is located under the glove box. There is a way to test this, Not sure if I know the exact procedure for your model, If the lights and led functions are working intermittently you should be able to get a reading. Try turning on your ignition but not starting the car. Push the Off button on the climate control and hold. If this is the right procedure, the system will run through diagnostics for the electrical. Im sorry but dont have my books here and dont have the exact instructions, will certainly be happy to provide the details if what I have given you isnt right.
1989 Cadillac DeVille Heating / Cooling System Upgrade
New User Asked -
Need your help. I want to switch system to R134a. What do I need to do since the compressor on this FWD Deville is located so close to passenger strut tower? Please assist. Thanks.
Roger -
Hello, The A/C compressor is engine driven by serpentine belt and is located just behind the passenger side cooling fan motor on the side of the engine just below the height of the frame rail. It is accessed/removed from under the car when replaced.
That big cylinder near the right strut tower is the system accumulator (drier).
EPA requirements concerning the recycling of freon call for licensed technicians and special equipment when dealing with HVAC systems. How will you meet these requirements?
Has your A/C compressor failed? Does your current A/C system leak freon?
Please advise,
Roger
Roger -
Hello, Was it your intention to release the question without having any dialog with me? I will help answer your question.
Roger
Douglas -
If you want the least expensive route available-
Take to a shop that will evacuate the system, cost $20-30 around here. Then simply jump the low pressure switch and add refrigerant and oil. It is highly recommended to replace the accumulator when doing the conversion, those I've seen who don't are sometimes getting 3 or 4 years before failure. On the down side failure can happen much quicker.
1989 Cadillac DeVille All Part Groups Happens always No pattern
New User Asked -
check engine lite goes on and off when on car seems to mis when drive surges when breaking and driving fuel computer reads outragous numbers 90 mpg wont change modes g m dealer told me to pull code from climate control by pushing off and warmer button same time with key on got 188 and then an s over c help!!!!!!!!!!
Marquez4life -
draw all your power from system and then all your codes will reset you comp. is still hanging on to old codes, put a ground rod in the ground put a cable from positive to the ground rod overnight then connect battery back and you shall see the difference
New User -
are you talking battery when you say run a ground rod from neg and connect positive to ground rod
Marquez4life -
What I mean is connect a pair of jumper cables to the positive cable that you disconnected from car connect the other side of jumper cables to ground rod and leave there at least 24hrs blk.. Make sure positive cable is removed from battery leave the blk one on.
New User -
if that does no good how do i pull the codes i need out
I need a diagram of me steering column to reassemble
New User -
I need an assembly diagram I think I have missing parts
Roger -
Hello, I might be able to find an exploded view of the column for you.
Is your steering column tilt or not?
How far apart is the column? Did you disassemble it? What are you trying to fix?
Have you been to your public library to look at a referrence book?
Your local Cadillac Dealer Parts Dept may be able to print you a parts exploded view.
Please advise,
Roger
New User -
I am all the way to the ignition switch. I changed it but I see a broken part on the horn ring or directional centering what ever you call it white plastic with a brass ring underneth it
New User -
Oh yes, it is tilt and telecoptic
Roger -
That part is the turn signal cancelling cam and horn contact. Is it broken? This is what the horn contact wire locks into when you assemble the horn pad to the steering wheel.
How can I best help you?
Roger
New User -
Could you give me an exploded yiew so I can make shure all the parts are there and I can order the right parts I need thanks
Roger -
I checked one of the data bases and it did not have what we need.
Will tomorrow work for you? I have better sources during normal business hours.
Roger
New User -
great I have to work tomorrow too but I will be back on around 4 oclock ok thanks a lot
Roger -
What is your email address or a fax number to send the drawing to please?
Roger
New User -
[redacted] or my fax is [redacted]
Roger -
I'll make the effort to get a drawing today Dec 12.
Roger
Roger -
I did get an email off to you. I'm mad at myself for taking so long.
I'm retired from a Cadillac Dealer in Oklahoma City. I will help you.
Roger
New User -
don't worry I am so frustrated at it I think I will park it on the side and wait untill I get more info and the right tools I am having a bitch of a time trying to get the lock ring that holds the steering wheel lock down. It has a telescoping steering wheel I need a special tool to compress the spring. the center shaft just pulls out so nothing to hook on to
Roger -
Take a look at the threads on the screw that goes down the center of the short telescope shaft. Shop for an allen screw that duplicates the thread and you can position the short shaft all the way down and lock it with the allen screw. Then the conventional spring compression tool can be used.
Any help??
Roger
New User -
Great help thank you very much
Roger -
Anything else needed here? If so please advise.
If not, to accept my answer so that All Parts will pay me please click on the OK TO PAY MECHANIC button.
Roger
New User -
just if you know of the part for the spring protector so horn won't short spring from the sterring wheel
Roger -
The GM part #[redacted] is correct for your Cadillac signal cancelling cam and horn contact.
The HELP brand part #83232 is the aftermarket part sold at auto parts stores that do not carry GM brand parts. There may be other brands as well.
Roger
Roger -
Bob, I'm emailing two more views of the column I found today.
The part #[redacted] is still current for the plastic piece you need. Sells at Cadillac for $10.61 plus tax in my area.
1989 Cadillac DeVille Electrical / Lighting Systems
New User Asked -
MY ALTERNATOR IS NOT CHARGING MY BATTERY. I'VE HAD THE ALTERNATOR TESTED AND THE BATTERY TESTED. THEY BOTH CHECKED OUT OK. WHEN I REINSTALLED THEM, THE CAR RAN FOR AWHILE THEN SHUT OFF WHEN I STOPPED. ALSO ALL MY DASH LIGHTS ARE NOT WORKING EXCEPT FOR SERVICE ENGINE SOON LIGHT. MY AC, SPEEDOMETER AND FUEL GAUGE DO NOT COME ON ANYMORE. WHAT COULD BE THE PROBLEM?
Roger -
Hello, Have you checked all of the fuses? Do you have digital or analog gauges?
If the light bulb for the no charge battery warning is burned out the alternator will not charge.
Did all of the dash lights that are not working quit at the same time?
1989 Cadillac DeVille Electrical / Lighting Systems
New User Asked -
The PRD123 flashes and no reading on fuel and A/C. Reading come out saying don't shut off engine, might not restart
Roger -
Hello, I believe there is a Technical Service Bulletin on this.
What is your email address please?
Roger
New User -
[redacted]
Roger -
I'll send you a couple of TSB's to review. I'm still looking for more.
Roger
New User -
Great, Thank You
Roger -
Please advise how well this info meets your needs.I'll try to help.
Roger
New User -
Still nothing when I ck for codes it comes upwith "no pcm, no icm, no ecm
Roger -
Please confirm this car is a DeVille.
Roger
New User -
Yes it is a Deville, wrong year though, it is a 1998
Roger -
1998...big difference.
The ignition lock cylinder has two very small gauge wires that carry the security value of the ignition key chip down through the steering colum to the security system module. If one of these wires breaks off the car is not going to start.
If the ignition key has become coated with hand lotion or is dirty it can be cleaned with rubbing alcohol. If the key cannot be read properly by the security module the driver gets the warning you are describing.
Try cleaning the ignition keys. If the problem persists expect that the ignition lock cylinder and all of the ignition keys will need be replaced. Those little white wires are part of the ignition lock cylinder and cannot be repaired.
Roger
New User -
Thank you, I'll try it and get back with you
Roger -
Sure hope you are successful without the big bill of a cylinder change.
Roger
New User -
hey Rodger, cleaned keys, sprayed inside of lock, took steering colume apart and to no avail. I did.nt find any broken wires. I did find out that the red 50 amp fuse up front has a 5 amp draw to it. This is with the ignition on or off. How much to fly you to FL and fix! That's how bad it's getting, Thanks, Rob
Roger -
The 1998 DeVille Body Control Module (BCM) powers down very slowly in steps. So if you were to put the leads of a 10 amp dc ammeter in series with the disconnected negative battery cable end and to the battery post it would take 28 minutes for the BCM to go to "sleep".
When testing for parasitic drains on the battery up to 35 miliamps is allowed but cannot be determined before the 28 minute power down sequence has taken place. If after the 28 minute wait the drain exceeds 35 miliamps there is a problem to address.
Thanks, but I won't be flying to Florida....
Roger
Roger -
Have I answered your question? If yes, please click on OK to finish up. If not, please advise.
In 1989, the Cadillac security system was a dealer add-on. I need the wiring diagram for a System VSS-300 Remote Control Security which was the unit the dealer added to provide remote locking and security for the 1989 Deville.
macconeck -
What engine do you have?
New User -
Thanks for replying. It is a 4.5 liter V8. The VSS-300 Remote Control Security not only locks the doors, but it disables the engine. Can I simply cut all the wires to the VSS-300 unit under the dash or do I have to make additional wiring changes? Remember this unit was installed by the dealer - it is not part of the basic wiring on the car.
macconeck -
Do you have any other numbers or name that you can give me off of that module in your car?
New User -
I know that the VSS-300 unit was made by General Motors "Goodwrench Remote Control". I will plan to pull the panels and go under the dash to try to find any more numbers on the unit. Could I have your email address so I can send an attachment if necessary? My email is [redacted]
macconeck -
sure [redacted]
New User -
Thanks, Larry. As soon as I get the panels pulled, I'll let you know what I find. I appreciate your help. I am the original owner of this 1989 Deville, and I am restoring it to use as a second car. But the remote security unit kicks in at unexpected times. If I push the remote, it will unlock again, but it is a nuisance, so I want to remove the unit.
macconeck -
There is another diagram that I will send you to look at, this is the one that is supposed to be for your original alarm wiring and it will also be a part of the installed system.
They always use the same wiring.
I will be out most of the day today so I hope it will help you to get somewhere
You should be able to find the disabling relays and disconect them and re-connect the wires and you should be able to disconnect the door locks easily, along with the starter cut-out switch.
The alarm is probly hooked up to the nuetral saftey switch and the ignition switch power.
just some thoughts for now, I have searched for a diagram of that old system and found nothing on it so far , one thing for sure is all of these systems are wired with the same connections.
My 89 Cadillac Deville cuts off sometimes when it comes to a stop or its park and wont fire back up but it turns over so my guess is it needs a tune up but then sometimes when I start it, it doesn't start right up it does like 2 or 3 slow turn overs before it fires up and I got a new diehard battery in it, and also my gas meter goes up and down, one day it will say 3 gallons, another time it will say E and another time it will say 2 gallons, so what is wrong with my cadillac?
Roger -
Hello, Consider having the starter draw tested. If more than 175 amps are needed to turn the starter it should be replaced. This will address the slow cranking.
How long since tuned? Are the throttle plates gummed up in the throttle body? The throttle may be sticking closed and the idle speed control is having problems overcoming a closed throttle when recovery to prevent engine stall is needed.
I wouldn't spend money on the fuel guage yet. There is an electronic dampener in the circuit to help readings remain accurate during tank slosh. It also dampens the reading when the vehicle has been parked other than level.
Roger
New User -
I have no idea how long, I brought the car a few months ago and I had to put in new air pump in it and didn't pay attention to nothing else, but my idle do be high sometimes, when I put it in drive it jus go by itself, but before it started cuttin off I noticed when I start it after it rain the idle doesn't stay steady and its been like that since I had it, but sometimes it will start right up and sometimes it will start up slow
Roger -
Since the car's history is not known it is worth your while to look at the conditions under the hood. Inspect the spark plugs for condition. See if the vacuum hoses are in good condition and the connections are not split or gone soft. Is the air filter clean?
Check the throttle cable connections at the throttle body to insure they allow the throttle to fully close without binding.
Does the check engine light stay on while the engine runs?
Roger
New User -
it's a new air filter in it, and the engine light doesn't stay on it will come on a while after i start driving, and I would check the condition under the hood but my hood is jammed shut and that diehard battery drained out some how and i'm planning on just taking it to the shop since it needs a transmission flush
Roger -
Would you like to check the car for codes? We may get an idea what the engine needs.
With the key ON and the engine OFF:
On the Climate Control Panel press and hold the OFF and Warmer buttons until you see the display change. Release the buttons.
Codes beginning with the letter E are engine computer codes. Codes beginning with the letter F are body computer codes.
Write the codes down. To exit diagnostics press AUTO or turn the key off.
Digital indications cycling on and off with relay clicking. Digital indications then stop working all together, defogger continually blowing in run, removing climate control relay stops blower. What are the color of the wires and where and what meter readings could help run down the problem? Can I hard wire the ac compressor and blwer?
Roger -
1989 DeVille had problems with the Fuel Data Center (FDC) and the Climate Control Panel (CCP) blanking out and coming back on with a different setting than before it went blank.
Cadillac issued a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) to address this issue. What it called for was hard wiring a capacitor to the connectors for each of the FDC and the CCP.
In some cases the Body Control Module (BCM) required a different prom as well.
Parts are going to be hard to find except for salvage. Hard wiring the a/c compressor will result in evaporator core freeze up. I don't recommend it.
When the condition is present (Panels are blank) try disconnecting them one at a time to see if the one still connected comes back on. If so, the one just disconnected has the problem. Sometimes this requires cycling the ignition key to restart the panel display.
Do you want me to try and find the TSB?
Roger
New User -
If you went to a u-pull-it salvage which parts would you grab?
Roger -
First I'd try the test I suggested about unplugging the FDC and the CCP to try to isolate the cause.
If these parts were cheap enough I would buy both knowing it may not address the entire problem.
Roger
New User -
The display has what looks like a c in it. Is that a diagnostic code?
Would one of those display panals being bad cause the defogger to blow constantly? When I remove fuse 4 that is for the radio and body computer the defogger blower stops blowing. When I remove fuse 7 that has fuel data center and climate control panel on it the blower continues. Does this help me localize?
The radio also has had a high pitch squeel since I've had the car.
New User -
Did you get my last?
Roger -
No, I hadn't seen your last until now.
That C in the display is not a code. I need to find a shop manual for the correct troubleshooting method for that one. It's been some time since I saw that C.
Yes, one of these panels being off-line causes the blower fault.
Back later, I have to borrow a shop manual from the Cadillac dealer I retired from.
Roger
Roger -
1989 DeVille had problems with the Fuel Data Center (FDC) and the Climate Control Panel (CCP) blanking out and coming back on with a different setting than before it went blank.
I have located the service buletin. May I have your email address please? I'll send the bulletin to you.
Roger
Roger -
Please tell me your email address so I may send repair data and a service bulletin to you.
1987 Cadillac DeVille Engine When starting When warm
J.Scott Asked -
With a new battery installed, something is running the battery down. After starting and getting to operating temp. I shut her down wait a minute then try to restart the engine. Slow crank with no restart and maybe 1 or 2 revolutions then dead. I test the battery with a volt tester still shows 12-13 volts. I also tried the test where after warming up, rev the engine to 800 - 1000 rpm, turn on the head lamps, wipers, heater, and check volt meter from car ground to positive terminal on battery. Only about .5 volt drop when doing the test. meter reads about 11.8volts
On board computer has no errors.
Need some pointers.
Edge244 -
when the engine is running even with all that stuff on you should get 12.5 to 14.4 volts. it sounds to me like your alternator has gone bad you can take it to your local parts store and they can test it for free most of the time i believe autozone will test it while its on the car. 11.8 just doesnt sound like enough voltage it should stay pretty close to 14 volts
J.Scott -
I also forgot to mention that with the battery contected to the car and left over night, the next day the battery is just about dead. 3-5 volts. so I then pull it out and put the battery on the charger.
could this also be the alternator?
Edge244 -
it could be the alternator but on the draining over night its not as likely. For starters i would have the alternator and the battery tested and like i said they should do that for free at autozone.and they can do both with it still in the car. so if you dont live far from one you can drive up there and if you cant get it started again they will jump you to get you going
Help to repair power window, which cannot be raise or lower.
Douglas -
The first thing you will need to do is check for power to window motor. If power is available when the switch is activated the motor needs replacing. If there is not power, let me know.
ac runs fine when I first start car in the morning. after about 20 minutes the cold air stops and I get warm air. It appears that the cold air stops when the engine gets hot. What do I look for.
Roger -
Hello,
Here are two things to consider as possible causes. The first is the compressor cycling switch that attaches to the accumulator on the firewall passenger side. It can be replaced without refrigerant loss. The second is the a/c compressor relay itself located under a black plastic cover at the top of the firewall. It is the relay closest to the accumulator mounted on a metal bracket under the black cover.
A great way to diagnose this is to wait until the condition is present. Remove the afore mentioned black cover.
Disconnect and jumper the wires in the connector to the compressor cycling switch on the accumulator. Does the compressor come on? Yes? Replace the cycling switch. No?
Rap the relay with the handle of a screwdriver. If the compressor comes on the relay has the problem.
Roger
New User -
Thanks a lot. I will try your suggestion and will get back to you. SurePURCHASE hope it is this simple. Will I be able to purchase the compressor cycling switch at a local parts store? Thanks again Jim
I was driving one evening when my electric contorlled gas gauge, climate contorl, and radio went out. The digital display no longer lights up. I do find that once in a while when I turn off the car that the display will come on for a second. I had an idea that it was the ignition switch. I replaced it and still nothing. Any help would be great.
Tony
Gro -
Its the computer control module located behind the glove box. replace it and everything will be back to normal
Reload7542 -
Is the part I want to find the engine computer or the control module?
Gro -
It would be considered the computer, its a silver box about 6 inches or so,
Gro -
Im sorry, it's technical name is the Engine Control Module. What I did on several of the other cars I've fixed with this problem was to buy several of these boxes from Pick them your self junkyards, the price is reasonable compared to the only other place you can get them, (a dealer) Its easy to replace once you get the Glove box out, and it does control everything you are talking about.
1983 Cadillac DeVille Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens sometimes
New User Asked -
Sometimes, when I start my DeVille, the Climate Control panel and the Fuel Data panel are dark (no display at all), and the blower motor is running all by itself; typically blowing warm air; unable to control it, or shut it off. It does seem sometimes that this occurs when the interior of the car is warmer than normal, as with sunlight, but not allways. This has occured on two of my DeVilles, my current 83 and an 84 I used to have. It seems that when this occurs, if the car is parked in a shady area, and is cooled down, the systems begin working again. Any ideas on this? Thanks, Ross (St. Louis)
encsisme -
I have seen the once before.. it sounds like your your computer that controls the a/c, dash and fuel control info panel.. is failing.. the heat causes the complete shutdown and cooling things off makes the connections better again.. this might be expensive and a little difficult to replace..I think the dash has to be disassembled.. good luck.. AL
New User -
Al:
No offense intended, but your reply doesn't do much for me.
I do have more information for you. It has happened twice very recently; in both instances, it was not very hot inside the vehicle; also, I was able to correct the condition by turning the engine off; then, turning igintion to key-on/engine-off, and holding there for a moment to see if the lights on the ECC/FD panels came on; and they did; then started up and both systems were functional.
encsisme -
This does help in some respects. When you turn off the key you stop power to the climate control computer. When you turn the key to the key on engine off position, I bet that you do not get 100% sucess with the ECC/FD panel lights coming on. Check that a few times, I would bet that you have a problem with the climate control computer. Let me know. AL
New User -
Al, Yes you are right. Last night, the condition occured again, and I could not correct it by jockying the ignition. I have tried swapping out the Electronic Climate Control unit itself (some time back); that being the unit where the push-button controls are located, there in the middle of the dash; didn't help. I read a TSB about ECC and blower problems; it referred to a "control module"; it's located under the hood, on the passenger side, near the firewall; the moduel has a vertical plug, with approx 10 wires going into it, and it drops down into a small plastic plenum; if I remember correctly, it has a large heat-sink attached. Know anything about it? I replaced one of these in the past (on a different DeVille), when I had a no-blower-motor condition; it fixed it. The TSB didnt' specifically address my particular problem, however, I think I am going to try and find one.
encsisme -
You are on the right track. I am sure this will correct the problem. I have found that the older computer items on cars tend to stop working intermittently then permently.. when they are not consistant.. the problem is hell to find. Keep me informed. Good Luck. Al
1982 Cadillac DeVille Electrical / Lighting Systems Happens always Always
New User Asked -
Hello I have a 1982 Cad Deville. I accidentally sparked the wire coming from the master brake cylinder leading to the hood lite. No fuses were blown but there is now a constant alarm noise coming from behind the radio/ air conditioning vent. It will not stop without disconnecting the battery. I tracked down the fuse that control the noise. If I remove the 25amp tail lite fuse the noise stops. I can't figure this one out. Any advice and thanks in advance.
Roger -
Hello, Does the underhood light still work?
I'm believing that voltage is backfeeding through the tail lamp fused circuits and that a body fuse is blown. Does the alarm sound like ignition key warning?
I'm trying to think with you..
Roger
Roger -
Hello, Still need help? Let me know, please.
Thanks,
Roger
New User -
No I got the problem fixed from the previous response. But this is a great site and I will come back in the future. Thanks for responding.
Rance
Roger -
I'm sure glad you got it fixed. I worked for a Cadillac dealer til I retired, I've seen/fixed some really wild electrical problems!
Are we finished here and are you ready to close this question out? Did I earn your business?
Thanks,
Roger
New User -
Yes we are finished and yes you earned my business. Thanks
Roger -
Thank you very much! Please close the question by accepting my answer. God bless.
1969 Cadillac DeVille Electrical / Lighting Systems
New User Asked -
1969 DeVille. Starter went bad, replaced with NAPA rebuilt which works when hooked to battery and jumped at solenoid. In car, when the switch is turned to start, all warning lights come on but no starter action. Noticed that some wiring around starter is worn - two red wires into a black have a connector about to give way. Can it be that there is not enough going through these ? Or is there a short somewhere ?
Crossed over two lavender wires at neutral/park switch and no help. Any ideas.
Douglas -
Hello,
Yes the bad wires can be the problem. Use a test light or voltmeter to test for power at the wires. Probe the wires looking for power at various points. Alternatively you could replace the suspect section of wire (that will fail eventually anyway) and update me.
You should have (constant) battery voltage at the black or black/red wires at the solenoid. The black wire comes from the battery and goes to the generator and starter solenoid. Check for power at both points, and in-between if necessary.
If you have power here, the problem is between the ignition switch and starter, possibly the ignition switch itself. Check the purple wire, it show go from the ignition switch to the neutral/park switch, then to the solenoid. This wire is only activated when the key is turned to the start position (must test it while turning the key). Use caution as the starter could activate when you think it is not going to.
Give me an update or let me know if you have any questions on the instructions I've provided.
New User -
When I can get away from work I'll go ahead and cut the wires and resplice to give full guage to each and cross over the neutral switch purple wires and let you know what or if that worked. Thanks.
Douglas -
Okay, try the new wires first. If that does not work you'll really need a 12 volt test light OR DC voltmeter (DVOM).
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