Cadillac Fleetwood

1995 Cadillac Fleetwood Heating / Cooling System   

Heater only blows on defrost, nothing on vents or floor. A/c works on defrost only

Unfortunatly, Caddy's from that era have problems with the Electronic Heater Switch.
There are no user-servicable parts in the switch so replacement is usually required.
You might find one at your GM Dealer or the local Autowrecker (or Ebay?)

1989 Cadillac Fleetwood Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

the digital readout for fuel gauge, air conditioner, etc, do not read. the indicator displays a (C) or somtimes a (D) . what is my problem?

Hello, Most often this problem is caused by the Programmer Assembly that is mounted vertically on the HVAC plenum case under the right side of the dash. You'll find it beneficial to remove the glove box and right under dash close-out panel when you are locating this black box. It is the one that has a linkage rod at the top, a multi-colored vacuum harness and an electrical connector attached.

I would disconnect the electrical connector first (while the key is OFF) and turn on the key and see if the display comes back.

This car has a Power Module and a Body Control Module with a PROM Chip that could factor also, but the programmer is the most frequent cause when you still have a display (even an incorrect display) on the Fuel Data Center and the HVAC Controlhead.

Questions?,

Roger

This is an expensive part. You may wish to go for a used part.

Hello, Have you had an opportunity to apply my suggestion to repair your car?

Please advise,

Roger

Still need help here?

Thanks,

Roger

I did receive a black box from a wrecking shop. The person stated that it was from a 1988 , and that it would fit. However after bringing it home and comparing I realized it was different and had different hookups. Since I have not had time to locate somthing different.

Yikes! Surely he'll exchange it for the correct one.

The 1988 FWD "C" body programmer should work/interchange with a 1989 FWD "C" body Deville/Fleetwood Cadillac.

This excludes Brougham, Eldorado, and Seville body styles.

Thanks,

Roger

Thanks for your reply, but the connections are different. On the replacement that I have is minus one connection that it requires , as well as the tubing does'nt connect the same.

How can I help you? I want to provide you the information you need. That is why I wrote about the difference in body styles.

Will the wrecking shop exchange the part for the correct one? Would you like to have the genuine GM part number? (If you remove your original one it may still have the sticker on the outside of the case)

Please let me know how to procede,

Roger

How are you doing with this car, please?

Roger

Hi, I'm checking in with you. Any news here?

Thanks,

Roger

1989 Cadillac Fleetwood Heating / Cooling System Malfunction When driving Always

My 1989 Cadillac Fleetwood Coupe FWD was just retroffited from R12 to R 134A refrigerant and the main aircondtioning line running from the compressor to the accumulator was replaced because it had broken off from the rear of the compressor. Now my aircondtioner switches from auto mode to econ mode and stops blowing cold air after around 10 to 15 minutes of driving. The air is cold until it malfucntions and then it turns warm. Also the computer resets everytime this happens and I have to reset it again for the aircondtioner to start working again; it runs allright for 10 to 15 minutes and then shuts down again. I have already spent around $400.00 for the retrofit, recharge and replacement of the A/C line. I am at wits end. Can you help me ?

There is a common problem with the compressor relay failing. It could create your symptoms. It will not cost much to purchase and install one. If that does not resolve your problem, you will need to have the problem pinpointed, starting with the auto-diagnostics on the car.

My symptoms have changed. Now after running the airconditioner for a while it still starts blowing warmer air and switches to econ mode but the computer does not reset anymore after I cleared the reset code now I get a low freon code but my system is full of freon. If I clear the low freon codes from the computer the airconditioner I am able to turn it on in auto mode and then again after about 10 or 15 minutes the air gets warmer and then it diverts to econ mode. When it is in auto mode the air is very cold. Whats going on ? I have not tried replacing the compressor relay yet I just wanted to inform you that the computer stopped resetting and I was getting these low freon codes

The low freon code will come from 3 things. #1 low freon (if it is leaking) #2 a faulty pressure sensor telling a lie. #3 a restriction or something else making your pressures go out of normal range.

Thankyou very much you were right on point. I had a leak in my system, after taking the carback to the garage who retrofitted my system twice, they found the leak. My airconditoner is now doing great.

Just in time for the start of summer!

I thought my problem was solved but it was not. The freon leaked out of the system again, so I had another shop look at it and they found out that it was leaking because the wrong A/C line had been intsalled on the car, they were 2 types of compressors made for these Cadillacs and they got the line that was for the other one. They also found out that my compressor was going bad it had metal bits in the filter so they suggested that I get a new compressor which I did I also had a new accumulator installed plus the new A/C line now it is doing the same thing it runs fine and real cool for around 10 minutes and then the service A/C light comes on and goes off a couple of times and then it comes on and stays on and the A/C defaults to Econ mode and will not come back on until the low freon codes are cleared from the computer

If the a/c repair shop cannot tell you what is happening, you will need to have pressure gauges connected to determine what is wrong. A low freon code will come from 3 things. #1 low freon (if it is leaking) #2 a faulty pressure sensor telling a lie. #3 a restriction or something else making your pressures go out of normal range. Use the actual pressure readings to determine which is the case.

I also have a vibration when the compressor is on could that be caused by the same things - low freon, faulty pressure sensor, or restriction ?

The engine is under more load when the compressor is on and any vibration in the engine will be magnified when under that increased load.

In addition, the compressor could have a mounting or pipe fault that would cause a vibration. Most likely though, it is unrelated to the complaint of it being turned off by default.

1989 Cadillac Fleetwood Heating / Cooling System Malfunction When driving Always

I just had a new compressor, new accumulator, and a new A/ c line instaled in my car the previous compressor was on its way out, and the main A/C line that attaches to the compressor had broken off. Also the original system used R-12 and I had it retrofitted to R 134 freon. The problem I am having is the airconditioner runs great as long as the car is parked or sitting still. When the car cruises the A/C light flashes on and off a few times and then it efaults to econ mode and will not come back on until the low freon computer codes are cleared from the computer. I am also feeling a vibration in the car when the A/C is on. I have taken it back to the garage several times, the last time they replaced a low presssure cycling switch but it did not fix the problem my previous A/C system ran very well with no problems and only one recharge in 60,000 miles. They said they put a new orfice tube in it and took the oil out of the new compressor and put the oil for the R 134 in it. I need help please !

A vibration in the car when the A/C is on? This is not normal. Have you checked to see if the compressor itself is vibrating? There is an abundance of low quality compressors available in the aftermarket. Was this vibration present with the old compressor?

Was the system evacuated when the wrong oil was added and recharged with fresh regrigerant and the proper oil?

1989 Cadillac Fleetwood Heating / Cooling System   

My climate control misreads outdoor temperatures. I think it is making my air conditioner run very cold, is that possible. I have it on 80 and it is freezing, the outside climate reading says it is 105 when it is only 79 degrees. Is this expensive to fix?

what engine do you have so I can inspect the schematic for your car?

YOU ARE GOING TO THINK I AM AN IDIOT, WHERE CAN I LOOK TO FIND OUT? SORRY

it should say it under the hoodon a sticker tell me how many cylinders does your car has

I KNOW IT IS 8 CYLINDER. IT IS A V8 ENGINE.

body computer module or the outside temperature sensor or even the inside temperature sensor can be sending false reading.
if there is a way you can have your car scanned for stored computer error codes
this will acually give a specific problem part other wise you are looking at swapping out parts till you hit the jack pot.

thank you, are sensor replacements expensive?

how many cylinders does your ca have? Do and which or the 3 below is your model?

a: Fleetwood or

b: 60 special or

c: Brougham

Outside temp sensors are usually located in the grille area.
Open the hood and you should see it somewhere near the latch.
it is not a expensive part
hope this helps

I have a fleetwood, 8 cylinders. I talked to a mechanic and he told me he might have to take my engine apart......

Then he will lie to you about other things also.
This is not an engine problem and the things that you need access to are not depending on engine work

thank you!

you are welcome

1985 Cadillac Fleetwood Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I changed my starter in my 1985 cadillac fleetwood front wheel drive yesterday and the no charge light came up in my instrument panel.What is wrong that caused this to happen, did a fuse to the generator burn or is the surpentine belt loose or the wire from the alternator to the battery have a break?Please elaborate what to do.The battery is not charging and I had advanced auto parts test out the alternator and the battery.The starter is working good and the connections were done correct with good contact.I checked the fuses inside the car they are good and could find none under the hood.

Hello, How many wires are connected to the Large terminal of the starter solenoid?

I'm going to get a wiring diagram....

Roger

There are 2 wires connected

hello

One of the two wires is of course the positive battery cable. The other wire goes directly to the alternator. Through this second wire the alternator should charge the battery.

What is the condition if the second wire and it's attaching terminal? Any broken strands? Corrosion? The battery cable should be attached to the starter solenoid first with the second wire stacked on next. Can the connection be moved by hand, or is it clean/tight?

Roger

it is tight

What is the voltage reading between the large wire at the back of the alternator and ground?

Disconnect the battery negative cable. Verify continuity of the second wire to the back of the alternator.

You said nothing as to the condition of the wire and terminals.....

Roger

condition is good

How many wires attach to the battery positive terminal? Have you disassembled the terminal ends of the cables and cleaned/inspected them? (This refers to removing the lead spacer from one of the cable ends and looking beneath it for corrosion.)

Your answers to my questions are far too brief for me to know how to guide you. I asked at one time for a voltage reading at the back of the alternator. What is it?

Roger

didn't measure voltage and the battery positive terminal has 2 wires

the battery positive terminal has 3 wires

If you would like a wiring diagram I can email one to you. I'll need your email address please.

How can I best help you? If you addressed all of my questions there is the chance something could show itself to you. Have you double checked the flat connector that plugs into the alternator for correct fit and locked in to position?

Roger

my e mail is [redacted]

the flat connector is good and the battery terminals screw into battery and they have been cleaned by me.

Thank you, I hope the diagram is helpful.

Roger

the back part of the alternator has only 1 wire going on bolt and the flat part with 3 prongs locked in with 2 wires that are grounded

Sounds right. Was the alternator tested on or off the car? Do you have a DC Volt Meter?

Roger

off the car yes have voltmeter

With the key ON test for battery voltage on the brown wire terminal at the flat connector that plugs into the alternator? What did you get?

Roger

brown wire voltage where do i probe wire

At the connector that plugs into the alternator.

Rog

can you send me detailed specific diagram how to do these tests so i can visualize them better

it is 11:27 PM here and i want to try these tests tomorrow but i need specific instruction with visual diagrams to make easy to understand I have know how but not enough practice

I'm sorry, I don't have a diagram showing the tests.

With the volt meter set to 20 volt dc scale touch the red probe to the brown wire metal terminal inside the flat connector plugged into the alternator. Touch the black probe from the meter to ground. What is the reading?

Roger

too late at night to do this the garage is cold i need information from you to do this in the morning so i can check to make sure results are acurate

OK, One other thing I suggest is to test the battery vboltage with the engine running.

Goodnight,

Rog

battery voltage is good when running i do believe that the starter wires need to be cleaned and tightened better and checked for breakage of the second wire to the large connection of the starter.I knew i should do this yesterday but i was tired and put the starter back in the car because the garage floor was cold.I will check these connections tomorrow as i do believe this is the cause of the generator not charging the battery.

All right. I would like to know the voltage reading at the battery with the engine running. I'm looking for 13.8 - 15.2 volts

Roger

the voltage reading

What are you saying?

Roger

I have fixed this problem today and noticed a broken wire the second wire to the large starter connection last night.What happened is that the second wire broke off the electrical circular flat connector because when I put in the starter 2 days ago the area was tight and the wire got caught and broker off.So when others ask you similar questions like I did you can ask them to check second wire being that it is so thin it breaks easily especially when the area is tight.This corrected the problem the car works perfectly and charges excellent with full power.I am also an experienced person who has been changing starters since the 1980's.

This second wire that connects to the large terminal of the starter charges the generator how?

can you answer this question?

This second wire does it charge the battery

Output from the back of the alternator runs down to the starter solenoid through the second wire where it connects with the battery positive cable. From there power flows up from the starter to the battery via the battery cable.

To close the question please click on OK to finish up.

I thank you,

Roger

Roger

Why is this wire so thin?Shouldn't this wire be thicker to charge better?

The wire is large enough to carry the max amp output of your car's alternator. So long as the connection terminals are crimped and soldered to the wire there should be no problem. Newer Cadillacs have larger electrical demands and the wiring and alternator are both beefed up.

I'm sorry this took so long. In my second response to you at the beginning of this thread my second paragraph asked you:

What is the condition if the second wire and it's attaching terminal? Any broken strands? Corrosion? The battery cable should be attached to the starter solenoid first with the second wire stacked on next. Can the connection be moved by hand, or is it clean/tight?

I'm very pleased to have been a part of your success with this issue.

Respectfully,

Roger

I only crimped this wire not soldering it will this be ok or will I have to solder it?

It should do well. Your choice to solder or not...
In my shop we require a soldered connection in addition to the crimping of the terminal to ensure all strands of the wire are involved with the circuit. And it strengthens and seals the connection.

Roger

I actually looped the wire so it would be thicker so when I crimped it there would be a definite hold with good contact as I crushed it with a compressed plyer.

That will do fine. Enjoy your car and have a Merry Christmas sir!

Goodnight,

Roger

I also wrapped electrical tape around it to protect the area from moisture corrosion being that it is exposed to water during rain,snow as the car drives in these conditions.Cars undercarriage really take a beating with salt in the winter,snow,slush,rain,etc

Thank you. I'm going to bed.

Roger

Merry Christams and happy New Year to you and your family as you are a very knowledgable mechanic very articulate.Thank you and God bless you.

Very Truley Yours,
Robert H. Ajamian

Thank you for your kind words and for your business. May God's peace be in your life.

Roger

THANK YOU

THE NO CHARGE LIGHT CAME ON AGAIN WHEN I WAS DRIVING THIS MORNING COULD THE SECOND WIRE TO THE LARGE BOLT OF THE STARTER HAVE DISCONNECTED BECAUSE I DID NOT SOLDIER IT?

That would be the first place to look because that is the area of the most recent repair effort. Not because you didn't solder it, but rather due to the most recent activity there.

If you test for battery voltage at the large wire on the back of the alternator and get battery voltage indicated you can reason that the connection at the starter solenoid is good. If no voltage is indicated you will want to take a closer look at your recent work to see what could have happened.

If you have battery voltage on the large wire at the back of the alternator start the engine and test again for an increase in voltage coming out of the alternator. If no increase (or less voltage is shown) the alternator has quit.

I won't be back on the computer until much later today. I have a full schedule.

Roger

I got no voltage at back of alternator and fully charged the battery yet the starter won't turn the engine over.Could the starter solenoid be bad?

I check voltage in back of alternator got voltage reading of 12volts and connection is good.I believe the solenoid is bad that is why it does not crank.

You started this question saying you replaced the starter and then the no charge light came on. You found the terminal on the second wire broken at the starter solenoid and then after fixing the terminal you stated the no charge light came on while driving the car.

Now you are saying the engine won't even crank.

With the key held by someone else in the start position check for battery voltage on the purple wire that connects to the S terminal of the starter solenoid. If battery voltage is present but the starter will not crank replace the starter solenoid with a good one. Perhaps where you bought the starter you installed will provide a replacement under warranty.

Roger

Hi Roger just came back from my garage and removed the starter only to find that the large wire from the batter connecting to the large starter connection was broker feeling relieved that it is not the starter or solenoid.I believe that the wire just broke after 24 years of bending it as it curles.I am heading for advanced auto parts to get a large circular connector to fit at the broken half as I calculated I still have enough length of wire to reach the starter connection.I believe I have solved this problem and will get back in touch with you in a couple hours after I get done compressing the connector on the wire and installing the starter on the car and testing it to make sure the car charges,starts,and is able to maintain a full load from all accessories.I am so glad my problems appear to be over.Once again I will be in touch with some good news.Thank you once again.

May I suggest you use less force when tightening the electrical connections to the solenoid? Snug plus 1/8th turn is enough and you won't have the terminal ends twisting or cracking.

Roger

Job completed Roger, and everything is fine, once again merry christmas & happy new year to you, and your family, and God bless you in this holiday season.It was good having a friend to explain my cars problems to, as we get older we tend to build experience knowing about our cars.I miss the time I use to work on cars with my father who passed away 17.5 years ago, it brings back old memories everytime I work on cars unfortunately it also makes me realize he is no longer here.Life is short so make sure you spend as much time with your family as possible to keep those special times memorable.Thank you.

I enjoyed working with you. I began my automotive career in 1966 and still learn something everyday. Your words of wisdom are taken to heart as I too recall fond memories of my parents guiding me to take the time to do things right. My dad sparked my interest in working on cars long ago. He would be stunned at the power and features of todays technology.

God speed,

Roger

Here is where I need your help. To accept my answer and close the question please click on OK to finish up. This allows me to be paid.

I thank you,

Roger

1984 Cadillac Fleetwood All Part Groups Won't Start Happens always Always

I am getting spark and fuel I know this sounds dumb but I cant find the fuse box I have no way to auto store for cheltons repair manual and car didnt come with book Thank you Mark

Hello, You'll need to remove the black panel under the left side of the dash first. Then, look to the left and above where the carpet stops to locate the fuse panel on the firewall.

Roger

What is happening here, please?

Roger

Hello, Still want/need help?

Roger

It has been a long time since I've heard from you. What is the news here?

Thanks,

Roger