Cadillac Sedan DeVille

1999 Cadillac Sedan DeVille Electrical / Lighting Systems   

cost and time required to install onstar on my wifes sedan deville

Hello, Have you talked with a GM Dealership about this?

Today's Cadillac Onstar Systems are all digital. In 1999 they were analog systems and those are no longer available in kit form. A digital system is not available unless you purchase a new GM car that is factory equipped with Onstar. A digital system is not available in kit form.

It would be a labor cost nightmare to try and take a digital system out of one of today's models (salvaged or not) and install it into a 1999 model.

My source is Bob Moore Cadillac in Oklahoma City, OK [redacted] .

My recommendation is to choose not to afford such an undertaking.

Respectfully,

Roger

Did you receive my last message Sir?

Thanks,

Roger

why are you charging me fees?
I never asked for your help on any thing.
please reverse the charges and do not charge any more fees. If you have me listed as a paying account I want you to cancel it immediately and acknowledge same. my email address is: [redacted]

Technicians were presented the following information on Dec 30/08:

Entered Dec 30/08 1:05AM
1999 Cadillac Sedan DeVille Electrical / Lighting Systems $12.25

Dec 30/08 1:05AM: cost and time required to install onstar on my wifes sedan deville"

Electrical / Lighting Systems - - not applicable - not applicable

My response after looking for an answer for you was:


Dec 30/08 6:49AM: "Hello, Have you talked with a GM Dealership about this?

Today's Cadillac Onstar Systems are all digital. In 1999 they were analog systems and those are no longer available in kit form. A digital system is not available unless you purchase a new GM car that is factory equipped with Onstar. A digital system is not available in kit form.

It would be a labor cost nightmare to try and take a digital system out of one of today's models (salvaged or not) and install it into a 1999 model.

My source is Bob Moore Cadillac in Oklahoma City, OK [redacted] .

My recommendation is to choose not to afford such an undertaking.

Respectfully,

Roger"


The $12.25 in the text at the beginning is a fraction of an amount filled in by the customer at the upstart of posting a question. The numbers concerning money/fees do not come from my choosing as I have nothing to do with what a customer fills out in the blanks when posting a question on this site.

Please write an email to All-Parts.com, Site Administrator, All-Parts.com and dispute this event if you feel you should not be charged.

I cannot understand how it is you have read this thread and feel I took advantage of you. All appearances of a business transaction are of record.

I am an honest man and I haven't been paid here. I stand by my answer to the original "cost and time required to install onstar on my wifes sedan deville". I trust All-Parts.com's decision for the action he believes appropriate. I will email him all I have said here.

Repectfully,

Roger

1998 Cadillac Sedan DeVille Electrical / Lighting Systems  Happens always 

My back up lights need to be replaced. I need to know the steps to remove the lens in order for me to access the bulbs to replace them.

You need to access the lamps from the rear.Inside the trunk,look in the location of the lamps.Some vehicles have access covers for this situation,on others you have to remove the rear trim.Once done you will have either direct access to the bulbs or the mounting bolts to the lamp.If this is the case,remove the bolts and pull the lamp out.Once out the bulbs will be accessible.
Good Luck,
Paul

I need your answer to be car specific, the back up lights are in the trunk lid. Aithough there is a bolt on either side of where the lights are; backing off the bolt does nothing for access. I have replaced bulbs on many autos including Cadillacs. and i am aware of the general info you forwarded but that seems not to be applicable in this situation.

Hello, In my experience I have found that you will need to remove the rear license plate to access the screws that secure the back up lamp to the deck lid.

With the license plate removed you will find two screws per lamp assembly to remove. With these screws removed the lamp will "roll" out of it's mounting place as there are plastic tabs that slip into slots on the outboard verticle edge of the lamp assembly.

From this point you should have no trouble replacing the bulbs and reassembly.

Respectfully,

Roger

Were you successful removing the back up lamps for bulb replacement?

Just checking in,

Roger

No I have not had the oppurtunity to attempt the replacement. It has been raining heavily for two days. I will let you know the outcome. Thank you for your follow-up I appreciate it.

All right. Please let me know how I may further help you when you get better weather.

Regards,

Roger

Did you get the weather break you had hoped for? Have you completed repairs?

Roger

Yes Roger thank you

To accept my answer so that All Parts will pay me please click on the OK TO PAY MECHANIC button.

Thank you, try us again!

Roger

1996 Cadillac Sedan DeVille Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I exchanged the radio for one with the CD controls and bought a CD changer. The radio will not function and I suppose the "theftlock" put on by Delco is keeping it from functioning. I have tried to get the "codes" by pushing the 2 and 3 preset buttons (and have tried all combinations of presets) and cannot get the codes to display. Does this vehicle (1996 Cadillac Deville) have a special function for these "theftlock" codes?

I also cannot locate the cable to plug in the CD Changer. The cable in the right rear quarter panel at the antennae has the wrong end for the CD Changer. Is the correct cable elsewhere or do I need an adapter?

Jeff

you will need to obtain the correct harnesses and wiring from your local dealership or salvage yard. It will be hard to obtain the correct theft code to reset the radio. Dealerships generally will run the VIN of a car to get the theft code for the radio that was installed in that car. You may find it less expensive to install an aftermarket stereo/cd player. good luck Jeff

you asked a question in this forum about your cadillac... were you satisfied with the answer

1996 Cadillac Sedan DeVille Drive Train / Driveline Malfunction When driving Always

87k .. transmission not shifting .... one gear only.. 4000 rpm @ 60mph.... cold,hot no difference.. Could it be a electronic control of some kind?

5-17-03
I cannot access the shop manual for your car until Monday the 19th., when the Cadillac dealership I retired from opens for business. I really want the trouble chart in front of me before I fault the sensor. If I were to miss a step, I would not be helping you the way I can if you will tolerate the delay. I have excellent rapor with the shops' staff. Getting an answer for you won't be a problem at all.

Until Monday,

Roger

Had it checked and got a error reading and it was
P 0717 input turbin speed circut no signal. now what? is this a sensor that needs to be replaced?

5-16-03.
Hello,

Yes it can, a technician can check the powertrain control module for codes and data stored in history and will get a picture of what is happening. If your technician has the amazing TECH II SCANNER, he can 'see' many parameters during a road test that will set a path to repair needs. Even many national transmission chain stores have this capability.

What it comes down to is warranty after the repair. Thats where your money gets you the respect you deserve. Get a second opinion if the first guy says it's toast.

Your turn,

Roger

5-19-03.

Well Sir,
The code P0717 is indeed fairly common to this model. The speed sensor for the input turbine fails (goes open circuit) and sets this code. The sensor is serviced without opening the transmission up. If AFTER the sensor has been replaced, (or, its wiring/connector are repaired as needed) the code resets, and the condition persists, the transmission must be opened up and the input shaft that drives the turbin, replaced.

The input turbin and shaft are splined components and can become stripped-out. Ocassionally the turbin and shaft are both needed, but, more often it's just the sensor itself, or, its wiring/connector loose or damaged.

Roger

Are you telling me that the speed sensor can be replace without pulling trans.... several people tell me that its buried deep in the trans and it has to be pulled, torn down, and replaced. The cost runs between 1,500 and 2,000 .. You mean it can be replaced without pulling the trans. Please tell me where its located or where I can look at a diagram

5-19-03.
When I spoke with the shop forman today I was told our tech does the sensor without teardown unless the shaft and turbine are stripped-out.

I'll see if I can get you a pic or diagram and further useful info. Man, I hope I can save you some grief. I'll sure keep trying.

Roger

5-20-03.
I got to talk with a great technician, today. He said that the connector for this sensor is on the main harness for the transaxle outside, but the sensor is 14.5 flat rate hours deep inside!

There has been a design upgrade that is the fix, and rarely will the shaft or turbine have failed. There are two styles of sensors that were used in production. One will be about $50., if it's the other, about $140. Of course the usual round of fluid, gaskets, seals, etc. will factor in too.

That is a labor intensive repair and the shop forman is pleading the 5th. I'll pop a knot on him for you...

Roger

hey thanks for all the info .... took it to a cad trans mechanic . he has a shop locally here in ft worth... he has the trans tore down and rebuilding it with the sensor upgrade also the clutches were worn and it was a result of the sensor failure ... I bought the car at a bargain knowing of its problem and the worse was a rebuild ... $1,625 here. I think you have to respond to this for me to pay for the info.. so if you will I'll click the pay for ya
thanks again [redacted] Jerry

5-20-03.
Thank you for this opportunity and for your courtesy.

Sail on,

Roger

This query keeps coming up on my accountability..are we finished, Sir?

Thanks,

Roger

1996 Cadillac Sedan DeVille Engine   

I brought a 1996 Sedan Deville 4 weeks ago. I put in the medium grade fuel instead of premium grade. I noticed the engine made this rattling (water) noise some time during acceleration. I did not remember hearing that sound before I refueled. I Thought it was from the medium grade fuel. So, I said I will wait until the car requires fuel, and I will put in premium grade. Three days ago the serpentine belt broke for the engine. I put on the new belt. The car needed fuel, so I put in premium fuel, and the same noise still comes from the engine during acceleration. Then I started think could this possibly be the water pump making the noise. Or if it was the wrong grade fuel, should I give it some time to run through? The car’s coolant temp with air conditioner ‘ON’ is 199-215 Deg F with the outside ambient temp from 100-105 Deg F. Wrong grade fuel or water pump problem?

Hello, Isn't this car equiped with the Northstar engine?

The water pump on a Northstar is at the rear of the left engine head and is serpentine belt driven by the overhead cam.

If you put a serpentine belt on the front of the engine it did not break due to a water pump problem.

Are you hearing a rapid clicking sound on acceleration? Try turning off the A/C and see if the noise goes away. If it does, the A/C compressor is suspect. It may have had piston ring failure and will need be replaced.

The serpentine belt tensioner is another area of concern for a clicking sound.

The car was emmisions system certified using premium fuel when approved for manufacture. If you get satisfactory performance on a lower grade fuel it will not harm the engine to use the lower grade.

Thoughts?,

Roger

Hello?? What is the status here please?

Thanks,

Roger

1996 Cadillac Sedan DeVille All Part Groups   

I change out the compresser on the car. I found out that the sensors were bad so i replace them i jump the wires low side the compresser came on then the car cut off i try to start the car all it did was turn over and over so i check the fuses they seems to be okay a message came up saying check fuel system the relays seem to be ok too what do i do plus what ever it is it is stopping the fan blower from coming on

First of all, verify the check engine light comes when you turn on the key.

Next check is for spark to the spark plugs. Followed by fuel pressure (do you hear the pump run when initially turn on the key and during engine cranking). Lastly is for injector pulse using a noid light.

What you should do is get a trouble code reader from AutoZone (call ahead, they loan the tool for a fully refundable deposit). Check the trouble codes to see what comes up. The computer (PCM) can be damaged on modern cars when jumping the pressure switch (assuming your car uses trinary /three way/ switches).

1996 Cadillac Sedan DeVille Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

I am trying to replace my rear pads... But I cant seem to figure out how to remove the caliper. Unlike the front caliper - there is only one bolt on the rear. How do you get it off?

Usually after the bolt(s) are removed the caliper has to be pried off, as the pistons in the calipers do not easily retract.Its usually a struggle as the pads and rotors have grooves worn in them.

The pistons do not retract into the calipers in the same manner as the front.
Instead of just pressing them in, they are screwed in. There are tools that will locate in the grooves in the face of the caliper to assist in turning the pistons.
If they do not turn easy (or not at all), replace the caliper with a rebuilt one. They commonly seize up.

I heard that the caliper rotates - and only one bolt is supposed to come off?

One bolt one pin and piston rotates in 'clockwise'

1996 Cadillac Sedan DeVille Electrical / Lighting Systems   

where is the fuel pump inertia switch located?

There is no inertia switch on this car. The fuel pump shuts off if the engine is not running and is not being started.

1996 Cadillac Sedan DeVille Drive Train / Driveline   

My 1996 Cadillac sedan deville will not move when it goes into drive. When I put it in drive it idles up to 8mph. When I put it in reverse it will not move either. Please help

Hello, Are you experiencing trouble with the running of the engine or the operation of the transmission?

Roger

The engine appears to be running well, but the transmission appears to have problems. It will not go into gear.

An owner can only check the fluid level and top it off if needed.

The transmission has internal problems that I suspect will require overhaul to fix.

If you will be keeping the car I recommend replacing the transmission with a GM factory reconditioned one. This is called a "CERTA" transmission and will come with all the latest upgrades and technical service bulletins built right in.

There are of course other remanufactured transmissions available. It's all about what you choose to afford, how well the warranty on the product protects your investment and vehicle down time.

I have personal experience with the CERTA transmission from my GM dealer and I have had zero defects with the product.

Shop it on the phone. The labor involved with an overhaul gets top heavy quick. All too many times the technician will take the trans apart only to find it has many needs. When he is finished the warranty is 12mo/12K miles. A CERTA warranty is 3ys/36K miles.

Roger

1996 Cadillac Sedan DeVille Electrical / Lighting Systems   

I was instaling an after market radio in my caddilac and the hot wire grounded out. I am getting nothing on the cluster and the car will not start. It just makes a click sound. I have check all the fuses under hood and in the truck. Please let me know.

how does this work

Where is the click sound? Make sure the battery is fully charged.

Did you check for Key On power at both sides of the fuse? I am not sure if this years uses fusible links or just fuses, but check the wiring throughly.

found it maxi fuse blow

1995 Cadillac Sedan DeVille Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens always Always

in november was getting "refrigerant very low" indicator and "econ" kicking in automatically. tried to recharge but system would not accept.seemed full.i was told to discon battery. it worked, climate control was back to normal. Now, 2 months later I have heat on passenger side and rear vents but driver is cold. Always.

You may well have two seperate problems.

When your car displays " Refrigerant very low" and switches to "Econ" but the refrigerant level is full, often the piston rings in the A/C compressor are failing. And (since compression is impaired) the sensors that monitor system pressures will set a code..turn off the compressor... you'll need a compressor. See your trusted technician.

The second problem stems from having "Dual Controls" on your Climate Control System. Are driver and passenger controls both set to heat? If so, and driver's side is cold, then it's likely the temperature door actuator motor on the HVAC Programmer (under the instruement panel, right side)has become disconnected from the door it controls, or, the actuator motor itself has failed. Doors are not often found to be disconnected from actuator motors, so expect to need to have the Programmer Assembly replaced.

Not an inexpensive repair in either case. See your trusted technician...these problems are not fixed by rookies.

Roger

it all sounds ok however i have no separate driver/pass control settings. plus dash vents (maybe normal ) only work with cooling.

You are right, dash vents work with cooling. A warm temp setting will default air distribution to the floor.

Call your Cadillac Dealer's Service Manager and inquire if there is a "service bullitin" issued in reference to uneven air temp. distribution to the floor. Since your car doesn't have "Dual Control" Climate Control, the condition you describe will require a good look at the doors that control air delivery and temp. while hands-on diagnostics (monitored with a scanner) are performed to determine a solution.

As to the "low refrigerant" warning you get ,and the reason for it, I believe the compressor to be the cause. To investigate, have a certified technician recover the refrigerant and remove the "Orifice Tube" from the liquid line for inspection. If the screen mesh is blocked 25% or more with any metal, or teflon fibers, (piston rings)the compressor needs to be replaced. To keep your cost down, a smart technician will verify the accuracy of the HVAC System's sensors (with a scanner) before recovering the refrigerant to inspect the orifice tube screen. A bad sensor is not common but a possibility. Compressor piston ring failure is common and frequent.

Roger

i am a small engine master tech and am getting good info in our dialogue. thank you. if compressor is the problem should the dealer address the fact that this is a service compressor with only one year on it. i know how Caddy can be and thier service seems to be less than forthcoming. this was a genuine warranty replacement to previous owner .

If the compressor is less than a year old and is a genuine GM part, the 1yr warranty applies regardless of a transfer of car ownership. If the service manager is slow on "Customer Satisfaction" issues, request that he set-up a meeting for you to meet with Cadillac's service zone rep. for your area. Given the history of the car you may get some help even if the 1yr warranty has expired.
Tell them what you expect and what you want. Be fair, demand fairness. Tell them you like your car!! With Cadillac, it's all about you're being a satisfied owner or they'll never sell you another Cad. It matters not whether you bought this car new or used. They need your business and they know it. They want you to tell those you know how great their product and people are. Stand your ground. Once you have their attention, give them the chance to set the stage to earn your business respect now, and your purchase business in the future.

Roger

thank you i have always been sceptical since my dads new purchase of the notorius 1[redacted] that had tons of problems that they would not consider even as a new purchase I will tread as you say and thanks again.

You are welcome, good luck! The 1[redacted] is a boil on any butt in the same zip code. Look how far the distance from the Northstar to the 4100. Your 1995 is a safer, better refined machine and has the power to pin heads to the headrests.

Sail On,

Roger

1995 Cadillac Sedan DeVille Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

Repeatedly pops fuse to ign1 10A fuse. This controls fuel sensor (registers fuel as E when fuel present), twilight sentinel (lights have to be turned on manually), doesn't sense reverse (back up lights do not light), alarm dings when lights turned on.

Taken to dealership and run for 2 hours without duplication of fuse pop. Dealer could not fix or detect problem because it wouldn't repeat in the shop. Of course, it blew the fuse on the way home.

Friend had same problem and ended up being loose ground on the kick plate. I looked and can't locate the ground.

Your thoughts?

Hello, I'm going to get the wiring schematic tomorrow and see what is going on here.

I submit to you that Cadillac has a Technical Service Bulletin out that calls for replacing the fuel pump and sending unit assembly because the fuel pump has been known to draw too many amps and melt wires that connect to the pump and sending unit inside the tank.

Even the wiring pig-tail that connects the car's wire harness to the fuel pump (about 24" long) has been found to cause too much resistance for the circuit. When need be this pig-tail harness section is also replaced.

It's an expensive repair and your dealer probably is trying to be completely sure of the car's needs before they ask you for several hundred dollars. The fuel tank has to be removed to replace the pump/sender assembly. One cannot see the damage to the wires without dropping the fuel tank and removing the pump for inspection. A restricted fuel filter would add to this equation negatively and make the pump work even harder. That translates to heat.

That's what I believe at this point. But I'm going to research further on this tomorrow.

Thoughts?,

Roger

Time out! Do you have a FAX number? Trunk fuse panel Fuse #2 (10 amp) IGN 1 powers more than you may be aware of.

When does the fuse blow? Just driving the car, or when you have just operated something?

The IGN 1 Fuse powers Catalytic Converter Alarm (Export), Fuel Level Sensor, Turn Signals, Electric Mirror, Keyless Entry, Retained Accessory Power, Illuminated Entry, Theft Deterrent Module, Turn Flasher Relay "F".

A short could be in any of these systems.

Please advise,

Roger

Your question: When does the fuse blow? when driving or when operating accessory?

I can pull the blown fuse with the engine running, start to insert the new fuse and it blows when making contact with the slot. I can turn off the engine/ignition, pull the spent fuse and replace it. As soon as I turn the key to start the engine, the fuse pops. It pops the fuse cold or hot, starting or running.

My concern was that I would end up having to replace the electical harness to find the problem. Obviously, that would be a cash pit! I'm not a mechanic but I can fix minor things with directions. If it is going to be "dropping the fuel tank", the car's going back to the shop.

Has any work been done to any of the systems I listed for you? It could be as simple as a pinched wire under a outside rear view mirror mount bolt. Or a wire caught on a metal edge inside a door, etc.

Where ever possible disconnect the systems components to eliminate them from the search. Don't drop the tank unless disconnecting the fuel pump connector clears the short. This connector is near the right rear corner of the fuel tank and is on a car body bracket.

With it disconnected the car won't start, but can you then replace the fuse without it being blown? If so, the problem is in the tank. If the fuse pops again, what is in the tank is eliminated.

You can tell where I'm going...Isolate something and retry till you find the system that has the fault.

Questions?,

Roger

I'll begin the isolation process. You had asked for my fax number. [redacted]

Thanks

I'm still seeking a complete schematic for the IGN 1 Fuse and all that it powers. I may have to copy each schematic for the systems listed that this fuse powers to compile a complete package for a FAX.

Will you check with your local public library and see if they provide access to an auto repair data base? Mine does and it is awesome. I have to go in to the library to use it and they taught me the ropes...just a thought.

Roger

1995 Cadillac Sedan DeVille All Part Groups   

Trunk pull down motor does not push up when hood is released. Battery drained. Pulled trunk motor fuse. Battery still drains. Why? Don't want to replace good part and not fix problem.

To find what is draining the battery you need to unhook the battery cable and connect an amp meter between the battery and cable. Pull fuses, disconnect components, etc (one by one and replace) until you find the circuit that causes a large reduction in current. Make sure you don't have any dome lights, etc on to skew the test.

OK I know how to do the step by step. I was looking for the miracle answer from your experience.

Visit the following link and click on the "ARRC Auto Repair reference center" banner-

http://www.bedlib.org/ebsco.html

From here enter your Year, Make, Model, etc. Then slick on "Service Bulletins and Recalls." From there click on "Chassis Electrical, Wiring" to view the TSB for potential battery drain and a blown fuse. There is something wrong with my computer and I can't read adobe files at the moment.

1995 Cadillac Sedan DeVille Heating / Cooling System   

OK. This gets long. About a month ago, as the weather got hot, I noticed that my '95 DeVille's auto climate control would not run the blower on high when the car had been sitting in the sun for the day. I could set the temp. at 60F, and the fan on "High", but it would run real slow. After a few weeks, the blower started to run only sporadically. It would quit for a while, then come back. The quitting SEEMED to be associated with accelerating. Now the blower has quit completely, but the compressor still runs and the dampers function. When the car is moving, I get a little bit of cold air trough the registers; none when I'm stopped. Can you help? Thanks.

Hello, The most probable cause is the power module has failed. The power module pulses the ground as needed to vary the blower motor speed.

The power module is piggybacked on the blower motor and is changed as an assembly with the blower motor and fan cage.

The original design power module is mounted with five screws. The newest is mounted with three screws.

Have you located the power module/blower motor assembly on the firewall?

Roger

1994 Cadillac Sedan DeVille Heating / Cooling System   

Need pictures or part number for A/C Hose assembly, 1994 Sedan DeVlle (4.9). My car has one with an expansion chamber. All parts I seen do not have one. Mechanic says I need replacement assembly with chamber. Been to parts stores. internet, all 1994 caddy Deville A/C hose assembly's don't have one. I'm burnin' here!!

send me an email adress that I can send it to

Send to [redacted]

I sent a email to you
is this the hose you have? if it is a different part can you send me a picture of it with more details?

Decco part 15-30954 is the part I need. But, the part that's on my car looks like a hybrid of 15-30954 and 15-3874 or 15-3999 because of the expansion chamber. The mechanic wants the part that looks like the one on my car.

If it looks like this hose it is possible that the incorrect hose was installed on your car

the first picture I sent is the OEM part

be positive about the year of the car and the size of the engine in should be re-placed with the part being called out for that car and that year

gm part# [redacted] the ac compressor to condensor hose check that one out

According to th A/C Delco Site, Part #15-30954 (Which looks like two hoses joined together(Liquid supply and removal)) is the right hose for my car (1994 Caddy Sedan Deville, 4.9). The hose on my car looks more like Part # 15-3874 or like part 15-3999 Which are A/C assembly hoses for 1990 caddy. Possible wrong hose? I thought the line up wouldn't work (I'm no mechanic).

I would think that the best thing to do would be to install the right hose on your car
It will probably be a better performance
option that is unless the entire system for the ac has been altered and it will not be compatable with the OEM version
If you decide to buy the OEM hose let me know

That seems to be the best option. Be in touch

ok

1994 Cadillac Sedan DeVille Heating / Cooling System   

heater blower works but no heat on bottom near feet

Okay, you get airflow from the blower. Is the problem lack of warm temperature in the airflow or simply direction of airflow (it will blow hot air but only on windshield/vents and not at the floor)?

Sorry but I am current unable to find the information for the repair.

I found out there is a tech here that works at the Cadillac dealer. 'Roger' will be along to help.

Do you get heat up on the windshield but not at the floor?

Hello,

First verify the vacuum reservoir on the engine firewall under the hood has both vacuum lines connected to it. Often when the transmission fluid level is checked during an oil change service one of the vacuum lines gets bumped loose. The resulting vacuum leak (should this be the case) will be a problem.

Under the right side of the dash there is a black box called a Programmer Assembly. It has a multi-colored vacuum harness and one electrical connector.

Remove the close out panel under the right side of the dash for access. Locate the programmer box. Start the engine, turn on the climate control to a heat setting and then thump on the black box to see if a vacuum solenoid is stuck and frees up.

What happened? If no change, shut the engine off and remove the size 7mm nut in the center of the vacuum harness connection to the programmer and disconnect the vacuum harness from the programmer.

Start the engine. Measure the amount of vacuum arriving on the black colored vacuum line in the vacuum harness connector. Please advise your findings.

Thanks,

Roger

1994 Cadillac Sedan DeVille Electrical / Lighting Systems   

About 6 months ago, my digital display started "blinking out", it would go completely blank, and the Service Engine Soon light would come on, the fan blower motor would cut on by itself. As time passed the problem ceased. Here recently, The whole display, with the exception of current fuel in gallons will "freeze up" including the Speed ometer, the odometer goes to 00000.00. However, if it is 90+ degrees outside, the dashboard display will perform correctly. When i do a diagnositic check on it with the built-in diagnostic checker, by pressing OFF and the cold button, it doesn't show any irregular codes. I am wondering is there a malfunction with one of the computers, or do i need to replace my whole Digital Display on the dashboard?

Unfortunatly the digital display is probably the problem, as they were problematic.
Get car comp systems verified by an outside scanner ;for example a Snap On one.

So even though the how much fuel i have is correct, and everything else on the display is incorrect, it is probably Display?

Hello, To enter on-board diagnostics on your car turn the key on--engine off.

Hold down the OFF and Temperature Warmer buttons until the display changes to the bulb/segment test, then release the buttons. Write down the codes and let me know what they are.

To exit diagnostics turn the key OFF or press AUTO on the Climate Control.

Please tell me the codes,

Roger

ok Roger i will do that right now

Roger, the codes read as follow: History codes: P030,P047,P052,PO98,I052,AO37..Current code: I039...It also said no sir codes, then it came to PCM? After that, I reset the codes.

Interesting.

P030 = Idle speed control out of range.

P047 = PCM/BCM Data link problem.

P052 = PCM keep alive memory reset. (Such as disconnecting the battery)

P098 = Idle speed control problem.

I052 = Power reset to instrument panel cluster. (Such as disconnecting the battery)

A037 = Loss of Instrument panel cluster communication.

Notice there codes P047 & A037 that relate to communication problems between the Powertrain Control Module, the Body Control Module, and the Instrument Panel Cluster. These guys talk to each other via a serial data line. Each of them are telling us the trouble has had an effect on what they are programmed to look for.

Technical training tells us to look for a result that is visually evident. In this case the instrument cluster doesn't display correctly. Since it appears to be fine when temperatures are above 90 degrees it makes me want to check for ground wire connections that are loose, or corroded.

It may prove beneficial to check the connectors on the back of the instruments for condition, corrosion, tight correct fit.

Isn't this a digital dash? If all of the instruments work normally in 90+ temperatures but some features do not display when temperatures are cooler I really think the instrument cluster has the problem.

Codes P030 & P098 can be as simple as putting the car in gear before the idle speed stabilizes, or selecting DRIVE before coming to a stop after backing out of a parking spot.

Roger

Sorry Roger, i just got it, I appreciate the information you've given me, I will have the Instrument Panel replaced. :)

To close the question please click on OK to finish up.

I thank you,

Roger

1993 Cadillac Sedan DeVille All Part Groups   

how can i fix my security system for my car i put a new battery in the keychain thing but it wont work

Hello, I hope I can help. Did the old battery fail a voltage test? Any chance the battery is upside down in the remote? (Sometimes a battery terminal will break away and cause an open circuit.) Was this particular remote ever programmed for your car? Do you have other remotes that work?

Answers to these thoughts will guide me to the best effort to get you going again.

Looking to hear from you,

Roger

Hello, Do you still want some help here? Please advise..

Thanks,

Roger

What is the status of this query, please? I can help if you let me.

Thanks,

Roger

May I have the courtesy of a reply?

Thanks,

Roger

i fixed it im sorry i needed a new remote

Are you there?

Roger

Thank you for the reply. I'm glad it's fixed. Are we done here? Will you please close the question? I waited since May 29th to hear from you, believe me it's not about the money...

Respectfully,

Roger

Still need to hear from you...will you close this question out please?

Thanks,

Roger

Waiting to hear from you about closing this question..

Roger

1993 Cadillac Sedan DeVille Heating / Cooling System Malfunction Happens always 

Wheu- where do I start? Second owner - car has only 74,000 miles.
1. getting no heat regularly - sometimes a bit but if we turn car off to get gas or whatever - no heat again. Have mostly had dealer repairs.
2. Have had 2 heater cores put on in 15,000 miles.
3. Had stat changed, heat /cool module checked, water pump checked, of course the 2 cores replaced. Would have had intake manifold checked, but long-time repair person said he had never seen it defective in that model.
4. this same long-time repair person said it may very well be head gasket...but that would be strange in a car with that low miles. We're "repair poor" , frustrated, and don't know where to turn.

Hello, Since the heater core should not be an issue now, let's try another route.

The temperature door is controlled by a programmer (black box) under the right side of the dash. The box is rectangular in shape and mounted vertically to the heater plenum case. It can best be seen if you remove the glove box. Locate this box and with the key "ON", change the desired temp setting from 90 to 60 and back while you watch the linkage move.

There is a small electric 12VDC motor that moves the temperature door linkage from HOT to COLD. If the motor has failed or the gears in the motor have stripped, the door won't respond well to the programmer's commands. You may hear a clicking sound as gears try to move the door.

The motor can be serviced seperately from the programmer if you can find a Cadillac Dealer who'll order it seperately for you. Many will not and sell only the programmer assembly. Big money, here. Shop around. It will be a dealer item, or, you can always try All-Parts.com parts links, for used parts.

Believe it or not, I've seen the temp door linkage simply disconnected from the programmer and no parts were needed.

Let me know what you find,

Roger

Hi Roger, Thanks for your reply. Sorry I did neglect to say that while on vacation this last week - and without heat!- we talked with a mechanic who mentioned that this ac/heat box might be at fault. Actually went to a "salvage" place and they changed ours out - car seemed to heat a little but not like it should - (temps in TN were rather cold this past week.) The "REAL" mechanic whom we saw later that week said that no one had really gotten to our problem and he felt it was a FLOW problem and he also felt that the ac/heat item (behind the glove box) was probably never defective in the first place. "he" was the one who replaced the stat, ckd water pump (for broken fins I guess). We were referred there - so I believe it was a reputable shop. Said some hoses seemed to have more pressure than they should - when they opened the radiator, they got some heat out of the heater...but it sure wasn't consistently happening. 5 miles out and it was cold again. We had earlier disconnected the a/c because the cold air was blowing around. Want to consider this some more please?

Sure, do you have reason to believe the temp door linkage was properly calibrated?

You can bet if there is air in the cooling system it will air lock the heater core and we all know that means no circulation and no heat. You have the 4.9 Liter engine, correct?

The cooling system can be stubborn to get the air out. Since you have replaced the core with a new one our main concern should be to get the air out.

Is there a vacuum actuated hot water control valve, or, a black plastic "TEE" in the heater inlet hose in the area above the engine along the firewall? I can't remember for sure, but if there is, it may need to be completely removed and checked for flow blockage.

Loosening a heater core outlet hose clamp while the system is under pressure will cause the air to come out, but so will HOT COOLANT and can hurt you if you use this risky method. Loosening a radiator hose clamp usually does not do the trick because the air is too far away and way too much coolant will be lost.

Another method that has worked for me is to pour water directly into the heater inlet hose until I cannot get anymore in and then connect it to the engine.

One last idea (my most frequent method) is to fill the radiator (engine is cold) and put the radiator cap on just enough to click it in place but do not align the arrows with the overflow hose. Fill the overflow resevoir to the "FULL COLD" level. Start the engine and allow it to warm-up while you watch the air bubble into the resevoir. Raising the idle speed slightly helps this work better. The coolant level will rise and fall in the resevoir as air comes out and coolant is drawn in. When the coolant level goes down below the full cold level, add coolant back to the full cold level. When this fluid level cycling settles down, lock the radiator cap in place and with the heater on 90, road test the car with aggressive acceleration until the heater core loads and you have constant heat. Upon return from the road test bring the resevoir coolant level up to "FULL HOT" mark. Check it again in a couple days and add any needed.

Roger

I'm re-sending my last reply. I don't think you received it!

Roger

Hello, What is happening here, please?

Please advise,

Roger

Hi Roger,
We appreciate SO MUCH your detailed comments about our 93 Cad heating problem. The "air lock" seems to be the closest answer to the problem--at least at this time and hopefully permanently. Since we are not "mechanics" but wanted to get some better and clearer answers is why we wrote to you. This model does NOT have the valve that one could get air out of the line. We had it last week to the dealer again where they told us it was a plugged heater core...again(the new one) they flushed it out with acid (just the core) and car was heating but on the way home (5 miles)air from floor vents and also defrost vents was cold! - So they scheduled us for a complete flush today - said the gunk that Cadillac put in the cars with the alum heads to keep from leaks seems to collect in the heater cores! Today when we took it in (drove 17 miles) and had it set on 90degrees. Car was heating nicely - after having done nothing!! and I dropped temp to 85 then dropped it to 80 and then to 77--still had heat..surprisingly! So they DID NOT FLUSH system. They've had it all day and when I called, said it seems to be working fine and now said it "was probably an air pocket" that has now cleared! (I Didn't know they could clear by themselves! ) I still wonder if this is just
a temporary thing or what ?? ! Apparently the '93s cores get stopped up because of that "stop leak stuff" that GM required to be added to radiators! Basically "built to self destruct" ha ha! Thanks so much again for your help - any last words?

I've had occassion to backflush a heater core more than once to get the junk out. The core holds so little coolant and its pipes are so small it stops up all too easily.

Those pellets that are added to the cooling system are one thing I used conservatively. Using a hammer I would pound them to powder until the result looked like brown sugar. Six pellets to a package and I never used more than four and without flushing the cooling system completely first, never added them again. Some guys believe they must be added everytime the system is drained for any reason. I disagree.

The pellets are really a protection against corrosion and are not a stop leak product as one could easily believe. I never recommend stop leak products be used in any cooling system, period.

An air lock can indeed clear it self and you describe the happy result when it does. Your car should behave now. I'm glad its fixed!!

Roger

1993 Cadillac Sedan DeVille Electrical / Lighting Systems  Happens always 

Hi,

PLEASE!! Help me.
I recently purchased a 93 Cad sedan Deville from an elderly gentalman. I have been driving it for about 4 months now. The key ring door opener did not work, so I do not use it. I opened the car door the other day and the horn started beeping, lights flashing....ect (I believe its the security system). However I could not turn it off. I drove home that way and started unhooking the horn(S) to stop the noise. Well every time I open the door the lights flash (No horns i unhooked them). After a bit they go off but I can not locate what fuse controlls the security system, or if unpluging the fuse will solve my problem. I do not wish to use the security system so I dont care if it is disabled.

PLEASE, tell me how to disable, or shut off the security system.
Thank you very much
Mark

open the door and alow the lights to flash just until you can locate the box under the dash that is clicking or ticking this is a relay in the security system moduale
once you locat it disconnect the plug and it will diable the alarm
simple
you will know because the lights will stop flashing
hope that helps

I have not gotten any info back from you since the last conversation how did that electrical work out?

1993 Cadillac Sedan DeVille Ignition System Malfunction When starting No pattern

starter wont turn when key is turned to crank car. This is an intermitten problem. all accessories have power but starter does not engage. dont know where to start looking. Car will be fine then all of a sudden this happens. is it the starter switch? 1993 cadillac sedan deville

It sounds like the starter solenoid to me. Have the solenoid and starter tested.

solenoid was replaced about a yr ago..

as i mentioned, when i turn the key in ignition all power comes on except the starter does not turn. it does this every now and then...will crank for a good while , then all of a sudden this happens.
i can crank motor by jumping solinoid under the car(using a good 'ole screwdriver across the terminals) and then it will be ok for awhile.

Have you checked the flywheel to see if any of the teeth are broken? This can cause intermittent starter lockup. Solenoid could have gone bad once again, or your ignition switch is shorting out. Try running a diagnostic on the car. HOW TO "ENTER" DIAGNOSTIC MODE
To enter diagnostic mode, proceed as follows:

Turn ignition "ON." Engine can be either OFF or RUNNING.
Depress the "OFF" and "WARMER" buttons on the Climate Control Center (CCC) simultaneously and hold until the segment check appears on the Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC).
This is assuming your car is an obd-1 equipped.
OBd-2 is as follows

HOW TO "ENTER" DIAGNOSTIC MODE
To enter diagnostic mode, proceed as follows:

Turn ignition "ON." Engine can be either OFF or RUNNING.
For cars equipped with the Digital Instrument Panel Display (Digital IPC):

Simultaneously press the "OFF and "WARMER" (red) buttons on climate control center (CCC) until all display segments (IPC and CCP) are illuminated
For cars equipped with the Analog Instrument Panel Display (Analog IPC):

Simultaneously press on the Climate Control Panel (CCP) the "OFF" and "PASS WARMER" (up arrow) buttons

Email me if needed at [redacted] for more information concerning the codes and procedures.

It is very possible that A, yes the ignition switch is shorting, or B there is a mechanical failure/problem wirh flywheel/starter/solenoid.

1993 Cadillac Sedan DeVille Heating / Cooling System  Happens always When warm 

All functions seem proper. Radiator and hoses plenty warm. Blows plenty air, but very little heat.Can't find vacuum controlled water valve to check vacuum.

Did you check the heater core hoses to see if they are warm/hot going into and coming out of the heater core? The heater core itself may plugged (in which case you need to reverse flush or replace the heater core) if both hoses are not hot.

1993 Cadillac Sedan DeVille All Part Groups   

My service engine soon light stays on. I checked all the fluids and also changed the oil and the filter in the transmission. When i first take offI have to give it more gas than ususal. It feels like something is holding me back. As soon as I get going it rides normal until I stop and take off again. When I changed the filter in the tranny it didn't have shavings or anything in it.

You should access trouble codes from the vehicles computer to see if this points to anything. There should be a self diagnostic method for your car that does not require a scanner.

Do the rpms raise when you push the gas. If they do your transmission is slipping. If the engine just stays flat without revving you have an engine performance issue which hopefully a trouble code will help pinpoint.

1993 Cadillac Sedan DeVille All Part Groups   

WHEN THE HEAT IS OFF THE AIR THAT IS COMING THROUGH THE VENTS IS STILL HOTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT.

Is this digital climate control? Or is there a selector to turn the Temperature from Hot to Cold?

1992 Cadillac Sedan DeVille Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction Happens always Always

running lights stay on when car is turned off

Hello, What lights are you referring to? Twilight Sentinel? If you turn OFF the sentinel system will the exterior lights go OFF?

Or, does your car have aftermarket equipment relative to lights?

Please advise,

Roger

its got twilight sentinal when i shut the lights off running lites stay on front and back. when i pull fuse 14, the lites go off but dont work at all. also dash lites are included

Remove the under dash close-out panel from under the left side of the dash. Under the drivers side of the dash you'll find an opaque plastic box that has one long narrow connector right in the center of it's rectangular shape. This box is the TWILIGHT SENTINEL AMPLIFIER and is fastened with two size 7mm socket bolts. (Tough to get to as it's hard to get into position to work.)

Your amplifier has shorted out and needs to be replaced as an assembly. Most often, you'll need to transfer the nutplates for the mount screws from the old amp to the new one to secure it in place. Be sure the connector locks in place on the new amp and you should be fixed-up. Test your sentinel operation and close up the dash panels.

What else for you?,

Roger

Hello, How is this problem coming along, please?

Thanks,

Roger

Hi, will you please update the status of your question? Still need help?

Thanks,

Roger

Hello, What is happening here, please?

Please advise,

Roger

Hello, Will you please take a moment and give me an update on this question? Thanks!

Merry Christmas,

Roger

1992 Cadillac Sedan DeVille Heating / Cooling System  Happens always Always

Hi, I am only getting hot air on the passenger side floor and windshield vent only. There is cool air on the driver side floor vent windshield defroster and back seat vent. The vacuum lines on the tank are connected. Is ther a damper control that I can locate and check ? Thanks Dave (with cold feet)

Hello, Does this car have DUAL AIR CLIMATE CONTROL so that driver and passenger can control temperature seperately?

Please advise,

Roger

Hello, Will you please take a moment and give me an update on this question? Thanks!

Merry Christmas,

Roger

Hello Roger, To the best of my knowledge it is a single control system. Dave.

Dave, how hot is the air delivered to the passenger side floor when set to max heat (90 F) and the engine is fully warmed up? A Cadillac heater should deliver about 155 F to the floor. If not and the engine is fully warmed up (195-210 F) the heater core may be stopping up.

Cadillac may have a Technical Service Bulletin that applies here for uneven air temp delivery to the floor. I'm looking into it for you.

More soon,

Roger

There are two Technical Service Bulletins that address this problem. Do you have a FAX number so I can send you eight pages of info?

Please advise,

Roger

I know the holidays are slowing things up for lots of us. Thought I'd check-in and see if you have a FAX number. The bulletins I've found will address this problem well. One of them is labor intensive. You may want local help.

Roger

Hello Roger, Sorry I have not been checking my e-mail over the holidays. Unfortunately I do not have a fax at my disposal. Are you refering to TSB #9230A from ALLDATA ? I saw that one on their listing and thought it might address the problem. I guess if it sounds like an expensive repair I'll just live with it. Dave

I'm referring to Document ID# 253266 aka #T-92-14 dated 9-16-1991 and Document ID# 503314 aka #T-92-30A dated 9-8-1992 from Cadillac Motor Division of General Motors.

Are the last 8 digits of your car's VIN# higher or lower than breakpoint "N[redacted] "?

Please advise,

Roger

I want to call attention to the inlet for the "IN-CAR TEMPERATURE SENSOR". It is across the bottom of the "CADILLAC" script above the glove box door. If there is fuzz, dust, or lint collected around the script it will restrict the air inflow to the sensor and that can cause crazy system performance too. Check it out and vacuum as needed.

Still waiting for your answer as to VIN# breakpoint applicable to your car in my previous reply.

Please advise,

Roger

Hello Roger, The VIN # is N[redacted] . I will take apart the glove box and check the inlet then let you know the results. Thanks Dave.

It is not necessary to take the car apart to address the in-car temperature sensor inlet. Simply look at the "Cadillac" script on the verticle face of the dash above the glove box. Is there a collection of lint, dust or fuzz around the lettering? Vacuum it away.

The bulletins I have will apply to your vehicle as it was built before the VIN# breakpoint. Would you consent to my mailing them to you if you do not have access to a FAX number? If so, I'll need your mailing address. If mailing will cause privacy issues for you, do you know someone that has access to a FAX number and will receive the info on your behalf? How would you have the FAX cover sheet addressed?

Roger

Hello Roger, Yes there was lint around the emblem. I cleaned it and checked to make sure the hose was not blocked. I took the car out for a ride but no increase in temperature was noticed. I get very hot air on the passenger side, enough to warm the car. I'll put a thermometer down there to get an exact temp. If you want to mail the docs I will repay you for the postage and copies up to $3.00 Thanks for your support. David Lokken, 2120 Minerva Street, Oshkosh, Wisconsin 54901

David, before I mail these bulletins I need to point out that one of them calls for removing the instruement panel from the car. The next step requires removal of the a/c distributor to replace the splitter wall and baffles in the distributor case/box.

You stated in the past that if it sounds like an expensive repair you'd live with it. Labor for this modification will be approximately 5-6 hours at a Cadillac dealership depending on their policy for flat rate. At say $70/hr, that comes to some DOLLARS when you add the few parts needed, shop supplies and tax. Is this car a keeper?

Why don't you decide if you will spend this kind of money and then call a Cadillac dealer for an estimate? Ask them for their price to perform Technical Service Bulletins T-92-30A-(09/08/1992) and T-92-14-(09/16/1991) on your car. The parts are listed by number in the bulletins and they will have to be ordered. Availability can be verified.

Let me know what you would have me do.

Roger

Hello Roger, Thanks for looking into this for me. I will persue this locally with the information that you have provided me. I have found that there are not many simple fixes on Caddy's. It is not necessary for you to mail the bulletins to me. I am satisfied with the answers you have provided me. Thanks again. This is the first time I have used this service. I assume that the last step is for me to release payment for your help. Appreciatively, Dave Lokken

Dave, You are on the correct path now. It's a matter of whether or not you choose to have the modifications done. Before I retired I have done this mod and it does take some time.

You should see a Question "Are you satisfied with the answer? Click OK to pay the mechanic". Thats all there is to it now. Please do not release the question as that would alert others to step up to answer and cut me out. Problems? Write to All-Parts.com at All-Parts, he can overide a glitch.

Thanks for your business,

Roger

1992 Cadillac Sedan DeVille All Part Groups Leaking  

Im trying to take out and replace the heater core need some help on how to do this

Hello, Where do you want me to begin? Does your heater core leak?

Please advise,

Roger

Hello, Do you need step by step info or are you stuck and don't know what to do next?

Roger

I would like step by step that would help. THank you Norene

Okay, I’ll do my best.

Under the hood:

1. Place a drain pan under the heater core hose connections to catch coolant draining out of the heater core when you disconnect it.
2. Relieve cooling system pressure by loosening the radiator cap. Take great care to avoid injury if hot coolant spews out under pressure.
3. Disconnect the two hose connections at the heater core and raise the loose hose ends up preventing coolant draining from the engine.
4. Use compressed air (or available means) to blow out the remaining coolant trapped in the heater core or it will soak the carpet when you remove the core.

Inside the car:

1. Remove the close-out panel below the right side of the dash.
2. Remove the glove box.
3. Locate the HVAC Programmer. It is a black box mounted on the HVAC case. Connected to the programmer are temperature door linkage, vacuum hoses and an electrical connector.
4. With the key ON and the engine and climate control system OFF, set the climate control temperature to 90 degrees.
5. Watch the programmer motor move the temperature door linkage to the full heat position. The motor will stop with the linkage rod pointing to the rear of the car.
6. Turn the key OFF.
7. Remove the 7mm nut from the center stud that sticks out through the center of the vacuum hose connection to the programmer. Disconnect the vacuum hose manifold.
8. Disconnect the temperature door linkage from the programmer motor.
9. Disconnect the electrical connector from the programmer.
10. Remove the two screws that mount the heater core access panel to the HVAC case. (the programmer is mounted on this panel)
11. Watch carefully on the right side of the access panel as you pull it slowly (with the programmer still mounted) toward the rear of the car. You are looking to see how this panel slides onto the HVAC case so reassembly will be correctly aligned. Set the panel and programmer aside. You should now see the heater core.
12. Protect the carpet from coolant spill. Remove the retaining brackets and remove the heater core.

Reassembly is the reverse order with two important things to note:
1. When sliding the heater access panel back into place be sure to align the right side of the panel so as to slide it back in the slots formed in the case that index the panel for proper air flow.
2. When reconnecting the temperature door linkage to the programmer motor, first pull gently on the linkage until you first feel resistance to movement. Then connect the link to the motor.

Questions?

Roger

1992 Cadillac Sedan DeVille Ignition System Won't Start  Always

I have a 1992 Cadillac Sedan DeVille, it won't start. Won't jump. We changed the battery, starter engages but wont turn it over. Changed starter too. Same thing with the new starter. We checked voltage reading at starter, OK. Motor is not locked up, both the motor and the flywheel turn manually together. Need to know how to pull diag. codes and open to suggestions.

Hello, To pull codes:

Press and hold simultaneously the OFF and WARMER buttons until the display changes.

Let go of the buttons.

ECM codes begin with "E".

Body codes begin with "B".

Does the starter turn the engine?? You state that it engages...

Do you have spark? Have you checked the Fuel Pump fuse? Does the fuel pump run for two seconds when you first turn the key on (but do not attempt to start)?

To get out of code diagnostics push AUTO or cycle the key.

Roger

The starter does not turn the engine, you can hear the starter click to try but does nothing more. The fuel pump does run.

Okay, Disconnect the battery cables (all codes will be lost, shouldn't matter).

Notice that there are two positive cables sandwiched together. Seperate them. Pry out the lead spacer in the cable terminal that has the deepest appearance.

Pry or pull back the red rubber from around the positive cable ends. You'll find corrossion that is preventing your battery from delivering AMPS to the starter. You've been getting volts, but not amps. It takes 175 amps to turn the starter and the engine.

Look carefully at the positive post on the battery. Is it leaking? If okay, clean up the cable terminals and the lead spacer, reassemble and your starter should engage and turn the engine if the battery is "up".

What did you find?

Roger

I have a diagnotic code of e52??? What is that telling me?

52 is a diagnostic bridge for technicians to use. It signifies that the PCM has had a power interuption. That's all it means.

You can clear even the 52 if you wait until it is displayed. Then hold down the OFF and the LOW fan buttons until you see E00 displayed. Then push AUTO and you are out of diagnostic mode.

Did you find corrosion on the positive battery cables? Will your car start?

Roger

We found no corrosion yet still the car won't start. We had some trouble about a year and a half ago with the security system not allowing the fuel pump to run and the cadillac dealership bypassed that particular part of the security system. Is it possible that for some reason there is another part of the security system is keeping the starter from properly operating? Is it possible to deactivate the security system all together? The system seems to be tempermental, goes off at times when it shouldn't and is stubborn about turning off. I am still looking for suggestions?

Did you tell me that the starter engages? If indeed it does that would indicate the security system is allowing the starter relay to function.

Do you hear the fuel pump run for two seconds when you turn the key on?

I have a lot of experience with this model and I feel I can guide you if I understand exactly what is happening.

Does the security light on the dash go out after the key is on for one minute?

Please advise,

Roger

you can only hear the starter for a brief instant when you first turn the key. it never turns the engine.

Does the fuel pump run two seconds when you turn on the key?

Does the security light go off after the key is on for one minute?

Roger

the fuel pump does turn on but i have the battery disconnected putting it through a complete trickle charge so i havent been able to check the security light. the first starter i took off did test bad. i took the new one out of the box and tested that one and it came back bad to. i tested the next one i put on 2 times before i left the store. im still havin the same symptoms. im starting to think thier is something in the actual ignition wiring that is either shorting out or spiking voltage and killing the starters. is that a possibility?

There is a chip in the ignition key. This chip has a resistance value that is transmitted from the ignition lock cylinder down through the steering column via two small white wires. These small wires can break off right next to the ignition lock cylinder and the open circuit that results will prevent engine start because the security module cannot read the key's value.

When you get the battery charged up let me know so we can check the VATS Security System for problems.

Find out exactly what the Cadillac dealer did to your security system that supposedly bypassed a circuit so the fuel pump would run. There were Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) that were applicable to the 1992 Deville. See if you can get the TSB number they used.

It's going to get technical here real fast. We can do this. Do you have a digital Multimeter?

Roger

security light goes off, tried running a hot wire straight to the starter to make sure that there was no corrosion deep in the cables that we could not see and got starter noise but did not turn the engine.

Good, the security light goes OFF. I like that.

Monitor the voltage on the purple wire that connects to the starter solenoid when the key is turned to START. Do you have constant 12 volts dc, or a momentary pulse and then nothing?

When you ran the hot wire straight to the starter...to where was it connected? Did you try running a wire (10 gauge) from the battery positive post to the starter solenoid where the purple wire connects? What happened?

How do the fusible links look that connect to the starter at the positive battery cable terminal? Are all of them connected?

Is the negative battery cable connection to the engine clean and tight? It is located just above the starter and forward of the transmission shift transducer.

If the transmission is in Neutral are the results the same as when trying to start in Park?

Roger

What's new here?

Roger

Hi, Anything new here? What do you need?

Roger

1992 Cadillac Sedan DeVille Ignition System Won't Start Happens always 

I have replaced my battery, starter and spent hour checking fuses. When I try to start my car I hear a loud clicking behind the dash on the passengers side.???

Hi,

Remove the glove box and look up across the top of the opening. You'll see a yellow connector for the right side air bag on a chrome bracket. Behind that connector mounted on the same bolt is the starter relay.

See if that relay is the clicking sound you hear when you try to start the car.

Please advise,

Roger

Thanks, I'll go check and return.

O.k. I went and tried to turn the car over and if I looked at and felt the correct yellow connection it is clicking but so is one of the large black fuses above the fuse box on passenger side.

Do you have the Owner's Manual to identify the relay that is clicking above the fuse box?

Does the clicking repeat several times when the key turned to start, or once per try?

Roger

The climate control system is acting erractic as well earlier today when I opened the passenger door I could hear a buzz/chime coming from the area in question.

It does it everytime I turn the ignition on. The owners manual is in the car I can go get it.

The chime module is along the top of the glove box opening too.

Roger

I went and retrieved the owners manual and it is the interior relay center. I put my finger on the exact relay while trying to start the car. According to the picture of the relay box it is the "Retained Accessory Power Relay No. 1" that is clicking. The others aren't

OK, that is not our problem with starting the engine.

When the starter relay you found behind the glove box is energized it will output battery voltage on a Purple wire direct to the starter solenoid "S" terminal. Can you verify voltage arrives at the starter solenoid "S" terminal when the key is held in the START position?

Roger

I can't hear from inside the car if the starter is clicking but it hasn't turn over in days. Do I need to replace this relay?

Can I borrow one of the relays from the antenna or window lock out and put it in the bad slot to trouble shoot?

Possibly but I'd sure prefer to diagnose the cause properly.

One other thought is to ask did you take the positive battery cable stack apart and ensure no corrosion is present? The cable ends can fool you if you dont take them apart and pry out the spacer to inspect.

Roger

If the relay has the same part number you may swap relays.

Roger

Yes I replaced the positive battery cables and put connectivy gel on them.

Can you give me a link to show a picture of the starter connected in place. The starter has two small bolts and the large one connected to the battery. I wanted to be sure I have the wire from the ignition connected to the right one.

Cadillac had a Technical Service Bulletin that called for a wiring modification to the socket for the starter relay. Surely yours would have been done after all these years of service. The bulletin's purpose was to ensure the relay was energized at the instant the security module recognized the ignition key value and the ignition key position called for engine start.

I'll see if I can find it. If I do I can email it to you.

Roger

The starter solenoid "S" terminal is most often the one closest to the engine block when the starter is installed. The solenoid usually has the "S" on the end cap near the terminal for identification.

Were you to jump 12 volts from the battery direct to this terminal the starter will engage so long as the battery has power. That in essense is what the ignition switch does.

Roger

I know you are probably tired with this situation also. It has beat me. I pulled the antenna relay out and put it in the box that was clicking but didn't help. E-Mail will be fine if you are aware of any links with picture illustrations I like to take a look.

It may be tomorrow...I'm not sure. I'll need your email address please.

Roger

My e-mail address is [redacted] thanks for your time and patients

The last six numbers of the car's VIN must not be higher than 260457 or the information in the bulletin is supposed to have been corrected during the manufacture process.

I'll get the bulletin to you in about twenty minutes.

Roger

By now you should have the bulletin I sent by email. Did it help?

Roger

1992 Cadillac Sedan DeVille Chassis / Suspension & Steering   

I had to change the starter on my '92 Deville. since changing the starter twice my transmission will not shift automatically. I never had any problems with the transmission until getting under it to work on the starter. The suspension system seems to not be airing up the bags either. Could I have knocked something loose or a fuse to the vaccuum motor be blown if so where is it?

When diagnosing the starter problem i found a short in the ignition wire and spliced it back together. I also pulled and checked fuses under both passenge and drivers side of the dash

I'm not sure I've sent my question correctly

The vacuum line to the transmission shift transducer runs down the radiator side of the motor just to the driver's side above the starter. Do you see a soup can size metal cylinder sticking out of the side of the transmission? Has the vacuum line connection disconnected or broken?

As for the Electronic Level Control (ELC) system it too is on the driver's side at the front of the inner fender. I doubt you disconnected it but that is the area in which to look.

The ELC Compressor won't run until about 30 seconds after engine start. If you turn on the key but do not start the engine the ELC Compressor will run after about 45 seconds but only enough to pressurize the air lines.

Any help?,

Roger

I will go and check where you indicated the hose to be. Can I keep my question open?

Yes, the question remains open until you close it. I cannot close a question. Take your time.

Roger

I went out and looked under the car and found what I think you were referring to. It has one small line connected at the bottom and is intact if I was looking at the right component

That sound correct. Did you follow it up to the throttle body to see if it disconnected anywhere along the route?

Will you check above the transducer you found for the electrical connection plug that goes to the transmission? It needs to be secure.

Roger

Ok. I'm thinking when I rewired the short in the ignition wire to the starter that could have caused the problem. It's in the same location you mentioned but electrical.

Isn't there a purple wire that the ignition switch in the START position supplies power to the solenoid? Did that wire short?

Have any of the wire bundle wires chafed on a metal edge and nicked the wire insulation?

You're starting to worry me...:)

Roger

Yes. The ignition wire to the starter had gotten against the exhaust and shorted that's why I spliced it. I didn't notice any other wires exposed. The short was outside the bundle between the starter and bundle of wires

I've got to put the conversation on hold and go run an errand...will follow up prob. tomorrow. Thanks

One cannot believe the only place the wire was damaged is the spot it touched the exhaust. It's an advantage to know power was not on the purple wire except the time the key was held in START. But, the length of time could have been long enough to melt insulation in the loom. The longer you held the key in start and the number of times it was done the hotter the short gets until damage occurs. A fuseable link would be the protection for this circuit. They do not blow very fast.

I can't see what you can. You can decide how much of the wiring loom to look at for assurance no further damage remains.

Roger

If a circuit or fuse was blown where would it be? I traced the purple ignition wire back to the transmission and didn't find a break.

while changing the starter and trying to diag. if I have an ignition prob. or other I used a screwdriver to put fire on the starter solenoid.

Please forgive my delay. I had surgery on my right shoulder and it is slowing me down..

There is a black plastic panel that is at the top of the firewall. It has three fasteners holding it on.

With this cover removed, you'll see a couple of black covers held onto retangular Maxifuse boxes by metal clips. Slip those covers off and you will find the Maxifuses that act as fusible links. Use a test light or multi-meter to test these fuses.

What did you find?

Roger

Sorry for the delay Roger. I had a family rel. call. When troubleshooting the ignition problem awhile back I removed this panel because I could hear a clicking when trying to engage the ignition. I will go out and check. Thumbs up!

I've checked the maxifuses under the hood there good. Is there a circuit in the fuse box on passengers side under the dash?

The Retained Accessory Power Relays are in that area. So is the Starter Interupt Relay controlled by the Vehicle Anti-theft System (VATS).

Nothing comes to mind concerning the transmission on that Fuse/Relay Panel.

I'll look again at the schematics.

Have you disconnected the transmission wiring harness connector and looked at the terminals for an alignment problem? Does the connector fit properly and fully engage?

Roger

I found a 15 amp fuse blown in the fuse box in front of the passengers side under the dase. Finally shifts out...w/o prob. Thanks

1992 Cadillac Sedan DeVille Heating / Cooling System   

When I set the climate control to heat,cold to very lukewarm air comes out of the defrost and floor vents, but not the dash vents. The a/c works fine, and blows out of the dash vents great. I've changed the thermostat and checked the coolant level. If I drive at high speeds for 15 minutes, the engine will overheat. After driving short trips at normal speeds, I can hear the coolant bubble, and it sometimes flows into the reservoir. Under the hood- the upper radiator hose is very hard and full of coolant, I think this is unusal. The hoses coming out of the engine and into the heater core are the same way- hard and full of coolant. Do I need to change my heater core? Help, I'm freezing.

Sounds like its your thermostat. Its a fairly easy do it your self job. But when the thermostat sticks it doesnt let the antifreeze circulate thus the hard hoses, and overheating.
Heavychevy

.

I changed the thermostat and I still have the same problems. I checked the antifreeze with an antifreeze tester and it read that it is not in great condition. It reads about 3.5 on a scale of 0-5. There is a special coolant additive(sealer) for Cadillac engines. Would it help to flush out the coolant and refill with new antifreeze and the additive? I couldn't tell you if the previous owner used this coolant additive.

Its always good to flush the radiator. I would make sure you didnt crack a head or head gasket and I would also make sure the water pump is working.

,,

/

Just doing a follow up to check the progress of your deville.
Heavychevy

1990 Cadillac Sedan DeVille Engine  Happens always Always

My husband's car backfired because of a plugged cadilidic converter. The car now misfires runs very rough. We replaced the O2 Sensor, Distributor Cap, and Roter, plugs and wires and computer. We've basically checked everything including the timing chain. The timing chain still lines up correctly, but it is a little lose (4-5 degrees). Is this enough to cause a problem? My mechanic said that he was going to check the converter again and make sure it still wasn't plugged, but we don't know what to do next. Help!!

I actually had a car that would only idle (rough) because of a plugged cat. Best way to verify the cat is the cause is disconnect the exhaust right in front of the cat and start the engine, run only for a minute or 2 and this should tell you if this is your problem. I believe it is. Then replace the cat and let me know how things are working. Al

The car also smells like it is using alot of gas and running rich. When we replaced the O2 Sensor there were blue flames coming out of the hole.

1990 Cadillac Sedan DeVille Ignition System   

I tried starting my car this morning, turned key, the radio, lights and door open bell were all working, but it wouldn't start, not even a sound, no clicking, no turning over of the engine. Is this a problem with the ignition relay switch, the starter, or something else?

Hello, Cadillac has a security system that verifies the value of the chip embedded in the ignition key.

There is an anti-theft relay and a starter interupt relay.

Did the SECURITY light remain on after you turned the key off?

Have you tried to start the car in Neutral?

Roger

Are you working on this one? I'd like to help.

Roger

Any news here?

Roger

1989 Cadillac Sedan DeVille Electrical / Lighting Systems Malfunction When starting Always

Problem: Intermittly NOT CRANKING
Replaced the BATTERY, STARTER
Still have the same intermitting problem? sometimes it will key crank normally and most times NO CRANK, just like a misadjusted neutral safety switch (PRNDL SWITCH) or a bad starter seloniod. I'v read that some of these Cadillacs may have a theft deterrent system, starter interupt wiring to the ECM and so on. As far as I know this vehicle does not have this feature, had never seen any security light up on the information panel. Is this some kind of known problem that is common in these vehicles. The only other componants that I think could be at fault is the ignition switch mounted on the steering colume, or perhaps a loose or intermiting open wire.

Hello, Does your ignition key have a computer chip just below the head of the key?It would appear black in color and have a thin metal strip down the middle of the chip on both sides.

Please advise,

Roger

No, my ignition key does not have a chip. It's just the regular old style GM key, but for sure not the orignal key. So I guess it does not have the theft detterrent system. What really threw me off was that I read somewhere that if all four doors had a white sticker with number/barcode near the bottom of each door, and they do, It was suppose to have the theft deterrent feature. Well so much for that nonsence. So it's back to the basics. This is what I did so far when this problem slowly progressed more often each day. I would sometimes hear the starter soleniod click almost each time I turned the key to the start position, I did 4/5 times until it will start, which led me to believe the soleniod was the problem, so I replaced the complete starter motor including the soleniod, with no cure, and now there was no more soleniod clicking at all, just like a bad neutral safety switch, Key on, digital dashboard lights up, I manually turn the headlights on, turn the key to start, resulting in very little or no dimming of headlights, no voltage on the small terminal on the soleniod when key is turned fully to the start/cranking position, just battery voltage on the soleniods large terminal. I then had checked the neutral saftey switch and found I was able to move it by hand with a little force to the left and right about 3/16" both ways. Snugged it down, hopefully in the correct position as I could not find the small hole in order to insert a nail like pin into it to correctly adjust it's position. so I just thighened it down again hopefully in the correct position. What I did then was hold the key switch in the start position while moving the steering colume gear selector from gear to gear, but not even once did make any attemp to crank the engine in any position. So I had added a temporary starter button from the positive terminal of the battery, with the other end connected to the small terminal on the seloniod, I turn the key switch to the run position press the starter button by passing the neutral safety switch, open wire and lord knows what else to start this vehicle. Thats where I'm at, at this time. Any suggestions?

Look for a ( black in color ) relay bolted to the same brace the steering column is, at about driver's knee level, right side of this brace, standing on it's 'head', held in place by one (socket size 7mm hex head) bolt installed horizontally.

It's hard to find and hard to see and there is very little slack in the wiring harness to pull it downward when you get it loose.

If you find this sucker, tell me how many wires and their colors and we'll rewire it and replace the relay,too. Cadillac had a service bulletin about this relay's reliability. The new relay is a dealer item. The old relay has been off the market for years.

Roger

Roger,

Did not find the relay so far but i'll give it another look today. What is the name of this relay, as I have a CD for this auto and it will tell me where it is suppose to be if I search on it's correct name.

It's the theft deterrant relay and the way I find it is to locate the hex head bolt on the brace. Perhaps your disc will call it a starter interupt relay. The relay is positioned like an upside down chair with the bolt going through the chairback and the body of the relay (the chair seat) toward center of the steering column and out of sight.

If you can't find the bolt, can you find the hole and nutplate in the brace? Someone may have been there and left the relay bolt out making our job harder to find the relay.

A second location for this relay can be behind and just above the glove box opening in the dash. I don't think the relay was moved to this position until the car came with air bags, but a late production model might fool me. The glove box is easily removed and there is a stud on the brace accross the top, above the opening.

Please advise,

Roger

Roger,

Unfortunately I been real busy and just have not found the time again to look for this theft deterrent relay, and I don't want to keep you hanging on without any gratifying results, so I'll click the OK button so you can get paid. I'm sure I'll find this part the next time I look for it. Along with your informational help and the CD that will show it's location hopefully I'll get this problem cured. I will definitly let you know when it's fixed.

Thank you for your help.

Mario
[redacted]

You are a gentleman and I appreciate your offer to close this out for now. However, I'll wait awhile for you because once you locate this relay, it must have the connector wiring modified per a Cadillac Service Bulletin or the failure is likely to reoccur when you are in your best suit and need to be somewhere quick.

For privacy reasons, I'll not post my personal e-mail addy on this site. I do this service because I want to and believe me it is rewarding. It's fun!

Roger

Hi, Just checking in with you. Did you find this relay?

Thanks,

Roger

Any news here?

Roger

May I hear from you, please? Thanks!

Roger

Hello? Will you please update this question status?

Thanks,

Roger

Are we finished here? Please update.

Thanks,

Roger

1989 Cadillac Sedan DeVille Engine Chugging Happens sometimes When cold

At times difficult to start in AM & PM. For the first 5-10 minutes, until engine warms, accelerates and then stalls. Very rough and shaky. Have replaced plugs, cap, rotor, wire set, fuel filter, as well as part nos. A1945(?) and D1961A and a coil and both wire harnesses, parts no. PT285 & 01892260. Now that all that time and labor and expense has been done, what was the problem in the first place? Mechanics at shop say that no codes come up on their computer. Pls advise.

Hi;
Taking a guess that it is fuel injected. If so sounds like the air bypass valve is sticking. Might want to remove it and clean it out with some carburetor cleaner. Also spray the cleaner in the port were the valve came out off and make sure you don't see any carbon in the port. Good Luck Les.

Les,
I'm disappointed in your reply. You "guess" it's fuel injected. Please, at least look it up. It is. The engine has no air bypass valve, either. Bad 2nd guess.
The engine is periodically losing voltage, not allowing the plugs to fire. Do you know anything about the computer system in this auto? Can you help or are you going to give a refund when you don't understand the question?
Thank you.

Hi;
Due to your response. I would like for you to realease the question. I don't accept the money unless you are satisfied. Second of all you did not give enough info. Third it sounds like you be better off taking it to a shop and paying them to fix it for you since your automotive knowledge seems to be very limited. Good Luck Les.

1989 Cadillac Sedan DeVille Engine Overheating Happens always Always

The car runs great however overheats. The problem is the fans don't come on. I ran power to the, and they do work, and the fuse under the dash is fine. Perhaps its the relay or the temp control switch. I bought a relay, but can't find where to put it. Please help.

The coolant temperature sensor is located:
UNDER HOOD, DRIVER SIDE, UPPER ENGINE AREA, FRONT OF DISTRIBUTOR, MOUNTED IN INTAKE MANIFOLD

Do you think the coolant temperature sensor, if faulty, is sending the computer false information and therefore not turning the fans on.

You know, I figured it out. It was the relay. I found, replaced it and it works fine. Thank you but I don't need any help from you. Bye.

np good luck with your car

1989 Cadillac Sedan DeVille Heating / Cooling System   

1989 Sedan Deville. Heater is on all the time. Can not turn off or adjust. Gas gauge doesn't read either. Have tried disconnecting battery, but doesn't help.

Start by checking the relay for the blower motor.

What does the gas gauge display?

There is a little C displayed in heater window and gas gauge window. Where is the relay switch on the blower motor?

1989 Cadillac Sedan DeVille Heating / Cooling System   

I closed the account before I recieved my answer?

Please restate your question and I'll do my best to help you.

Roger

I recovered your question as follows:

1989 Sedan Deville. Heater is on all the time. Can not turn off or adjust. Gas gauge doesn't read either.
Have tried disconnecting battery, but doesn't help.

Your Cadillac uses a temperature door control dc motor inside a black plastic box called a Programmer Assembly located behind the glove box on the car's firewall.

If this motor has gears that have stripped out it remains in whatever position iw was when the gears failed. Often this failure is associated with a constant click sound behind the right side of the dash when the controls are set (in your case) to a cooler setting than full heat. The only thing that has to be on is the ignition. The Climate Control can be turned off and the click sound will still be heard. The sound is caused as the stripped gears try to mesh but cannot.

If no sound is heard the motor may have failed electrically or the door linkage has become disconnected from the temp door motor control actuator arm.

Parts will be hard to find as this car more than ten years old. You may find used parts at a salvage yard and expect to have to purchase the entire programmer assembly.

It is extremely rare that a Cadillac fuel guage itself has failed. If your fuses are good then I would expect that the fuel guage in-tank sending unit has the fault and will need replaced. This requires dropping the fuel tank for access.

Your thoughts?

Roger

There is a clicking sound. Is there anyway to disconnect the heater? Summer is going to be hot one.
Are there any computer codes to look for as far as the gas gauge goes? Sometimes weird letters and numbers start flashing and then it goes back to the little "c". Thank you so much for your patience.

You can disconnect the heater in this manner.
Remove the glove box. Look for a black box mounted to the firewall that has a silver linkage snapped down into a plastic retainer on a black plastic arm. The black box is called the HVAC Programmer.

Turn the ignition key on and the Climate Control off. Set the Climate Control to 60. Apply enough pressure to the right side of the black plastic arm to cause the gears to engage and move from straight back toward you to parallel with the dash firewall. Once movement stops turn the key to off.

Remove the hush panel from under the right side of the dash. With a 7mm nut driver or deep socket remove the size 7mm nut from the stud that holds the multi-colored vacuum harness mounted to the programmer. Disconnect the vacuum harness from the programmer. Unsnap and remove the cover from the programmer. Locate the wire connector from the temp door actuator motor where it plugs into the circuit board and unplug it. Bend the wire connector harness to prevent contacting the connector socket terminals as needed.

Reinstall the programmer cover and the vacuum harness to the programmer. Reassenble the hush panel and the glove box to the car's dash.

You are now "stuck" on MAX COLD temperature door setting. You will need to control the fan speed manually at times.

There are trouble charts and technical service bulletins relating to diagnosing your gas guage problem. There will not be codes for this little "c" display.

Usually this is caused by the Fuel Data Control Panel losing the serial data line to the Body Control Module.

This is indeed one of the rare times the control panel which includes the gas guage is most likely at fault.

Again I'll say that parts availability will be hard to find with the exception of salvage parts. You take a chance on the reliability of what you'll find in salvage.

Roger

Roger, you are my HERO. I hope I have te nerve to do this. Or should I just roll down the windows and call it good??!!! Thaks again. Linda

You can do this with only a few tools and some time to study what you see. Just ask when you need something or get stuck.

Show me you're good.

Roger

I gave myself a good talking to, got to the car and turned into a real girl!!!! Dang it. All I can see is
dollar signs $$$$$$$ if I screw this up.
And then I just found out I was charges twice for bothering you with this mess. I'm just going to drive it at night and pretend it's fixed. Thanks for all your time on this. It sucks to be a girl.

Linda, Write to the Administrator Mr All-Parts.com at All-parts.com and state your situation that caused you to be charged twice. I will also write to him and request that you be charged only once. I will not be paid twice. I will not be paid at all until you accept my answer and close the question by clicking on OK to finish up.

What stopped you from trying to do this task? Its not that labor intense!

Can you print my advise and have a friend or family member help you? Is there an automotive vo-tech school in your area that might help? It would be labor free.... Do any churches in your area have a car care ministry that could help? Don't quit thinking you can get this going your way.

Roger

Linda, What is the latest on your Cadillac? I'd like to hear from you.

Thanks,

Roger

1989 Cadillac Sedan DeVille Electrical / Lighting Systems   

89 Cadillac Sedan Deville, small v-8, went dead while driving. Not able to restart, even with booster. Bought new battery and when installed, alternator started smoking. Key not in ignition. Thanks, Bob Lawrence lawrence.bob@att.net

It sounds like time for a new alternator. A failed alternator can drain current even when the key is off. If it is smoking, it is no good. Most likely there are no other problems.

That's probably it. Something had been draining power from the car when it sat for several days.

The rectifiers (inside the alternator) are supposed to keep electric from back flowing through the alternator. Replacing the alternator should fix your troubles.

1988 Cadillac Sedan DeVille Heating / Cooling System Won't Start Happens sometimes When warm 

heater fan doesnot come on

Hello, Have you tested the fuses? Have you verified power arrives at the blower motor connector purple wire?
Have you thumped the blower motor when the climate control is on to see if the motor is stuck? It might start.
That said, your car's blower motor speed is controlled by a device called a Power Module. The Power Module is located at the top of the HVAC case on the firewall under the hood and is just to the right of center. It has two electrical connectors and has three bolts mounting the module in place.
If the blower motor draws too many amps it will cause the Power Module to fail. So you can't just replace the Module and not check the amp draw of the motor or the old motor can fail the new Module.
The blower motor cannot draw more than 25 amps (with the car's engine running) for more than one clock minute or the Module will fail.
Power Modules are expensive. You'll want to be sure and perform the tests and checks I've mentioned or you will bear unnessary costs. At times the Cadillac will need the blower motor and the power module replaced at the same time to repair the car. You should even test the new blower motor amp draw to ensure it is within spec's.

Your thoughts?,

Roger

How are you doing here? Have you had time to look at my suggestion?

Please advise,

Roger

I haven't had time to check out your reply. Was wondering if a bad radiator cap would affect this.

Thank you for the update. No, the radiator cap has no bearing on the blower fan operation. Let me know what's next for you.

Roger

I tapped on the motor, it started running. Next question is why does it stick?

Chances are the bearings are worn or the brushes are sticking.

Replace the blower motor. You'll find it readily available at a national auto parts chain store. Test the amp draw of the new motor to be sure it meets specs.

What else for you?,

Roger

1988 Cadillac Sedan DeVille Ignition System Malfunction Happens always Always

Ignition lock in off position, will not turn to any other position with any key.

Bad ignition lock cylinder. Will need locksmith or special tools. Part is less than $20

1987 Cadillac Sedan DeVille Fuel System Tuning When repairing No pattern

looking for the wiring layout for the fuel injectors. there are 4 wires, which 2 go to which injector?

Hello, This engine uses Throttle Body Injection (TBI) and both injectors fire simultaniuosly as one injector runs one bank and the other injector runs the other bank. Are the wires long enough that you can cross the connectors?

I'll get you the color code for the injectors, what are you wanting to fix?

Thanks,

Roger

well I just replaced the head gaskets on this HT4100 and most of the electrical conectors i had marked as well as vac lines, but my markings came offf on the throttle body for positioning the injector connectors. (1) connector has Blue/Red (1) connector has Green/White, they can swap on either injector, does it matter which goes where? Thanks for the reply.

Being Labor Day, I won't have access to the data I want to offer you until tomorrow. Left to suggest connector orientation, I'm thinking the Blue/Red to be the right injector (passenger side) and the Green/White to be the left injector (drivers side). It won't hurt to start the engine this way. I'll verify orientation tomorrow.

Once the engine starts and the lifters pump-up, if the engine seems a little rough we may have to swap the connectors. If you can give me until tomorrow, I'll get you the definate answer. Sorry for the delay.

I have a doctors appointment in the morning and can get back to you soon after. I am in the Central Daylight Time Zone.

Will that work for you?,

Roger

Thanks Roger for your time.
Just an FYI the injectors are in line with each other IE. front and back, back being firewall side.
I to am in the central time zone.
So today I started her up with blue/red in back.
sounded alittle rough, but continued onward with
checking the timing which is off. I noticed that the front exhaust manifold was turning red it was HOT! so I shut her down. last time I seen this was on a 3.8L v6 olds, the catalac converter was clogged. So i guess i'll need to take it in for a diagnostic test. know of any good shops in and around the Chicago land area?

The Red/Blue connector is for injector #1 and would be the left bank, or, "front" as you've described it. The other will be a given, of course.

On injector #1, the red wire is the voltage and the blue is the computer controlled ground. On injector #2, the white wire is power and the green is computer controlled ground.

I'm sorry, I do not know any shops in your area. But a catalytic converter can be more affordable at a national chain exhaust store.

Swap those injector connectors first and if that doesn't do it, the exhaust may indeed need a look-see.

Roger

1985 Cadillac Sedan DeVille Heating / Cooling System   

Heater control valve has a vaccum line going to a small modulator next to it. Line has vaccum and will pull the heater hose valve closed when motor starts as designed. When climate control is placed on 90 degrees the air will change from the vents and come out at the floor as it should. Cold A/C air is all that blows out. Go back under the hood and pull the vaccum line off of the H/C valve and it will open the valve so hot air can pass thus heat comes out inside the car. Appears something to do with the climate control in side the car is not shutting of the vaccum to the modulator thus the control valve does not open.
Can you give me some suggestions of what may be causing this problem and how to repair.

I have replaced a few of the climate control sitches. It seems to be a fairly common problem with Caddy's and some GM cars of that ere. No way to actually dismantle the switch to repair either. I have had luck, a few times with used ones.

Are you refering to the digital temp controls inside the car used for sitting temp? If so what is it that goes wrong with these switches that causes this problem?How involved is it to remove from dash? Thank you.

That is the part I am referring to. They are a sealed unit, so I am not sure what 'dies' in them.
The plastic trim usually just pops off and the nounting screws are then visible. If in doubt, pick up the replacement unit first, you will then see mounting screws.

Looking at the parts through AC Delco they talk about a Heater and AC programmer and Heater and AC control switch. They also refer to a electronic climate control. The pictures are not very good so I am not sure which is what I would need. Can you help?

Climate control (electronic) is the common part

1983 Cadillac Sedan DeVille Fuel System Failing Happens always Always

we put a new fuel pump and it isn't getting enough voltage about 4amps we need to know what to lood for there we also replaced the module in the rotory

where is the relay switch that controls the fuel.also what i was trying to say befor is the fuel pump isn't working and its new.also we replaced the moduel in the rotory.the car was running good and it just quit on me.and wouldn't start again,it turns over but won't start.we found out the fuel pump isn't getting enough power or none.what can we do to correct this problem.and do you have any idea what might be the problem.would appreicate any help soon.

Hello, The fuel pump relay is on the relay panel attached to the right side of the fuse box under the left side of the dash on the firewall.

Do you have fuel pressure? Have you monitored the fuel pump connector for power for the first two seconds the key is ON? After the first two seconds the Engine Control Module (ECM) will remove ground continuity to the fuel pump relay until the ECM gets a signal that the engine is cranking. This crank signal comes from the Hall Effect Switch under the distributor cap known as the Pick-Up Coil or Pole Piece. This pick-up coil has two wires that connect to the module in the distributor. If you disconnect this pick-up coil and OHM test it; you should see 700-900 ohms indicated. If you monitor this pick-up coil connector using an a/c current Miliamp Meter you should see a/c milivolts generated when you crank the engine. Be sure to disable the ignition coil for safety to run this test.

If the ECM doesn't see a signal that the engine is cranking you will not see the fuel pump get power for more than two seconds. Also, be sure you have oil pressure when the starter is cranking the engine.

Have you verified all fuses are good? Did the old pump blow the fuse?

Thoughts?

Roger

thank you for your info.we did try some of the things you said.some we did not.i hope i can refer to you again.this weekend we will try some more things i can't afford to pay you again so i hope i can refer to you again without payment.sence i don't know if this will fix it.again thank you from a grandmother in need